Here we provide general directions for making maki maki sushi, followed by a selection of common, easy-to-prepare fillings. sushi, followed by a selection of common, easy-to-prepare fillings.

YIELD: 6 rolls; serves 4 to 81 recipe Sushi Rice 6 sheets 6 sheets yaki sushi nori yaki sushi nori (roasted seaweed sheets) (roasted seaweed sheets)Desired fillings Soy sauce, ready-to-eat wasabi (sold in a plastic tube or as a powder that you mix with water to make the paste), and slices of pickled ginger, for serving Soy sauce, ready-to-eat wasabi (sold in a plastic tube or as a powder that you mix with water to make the paste), and slices of pickled ginger, for serving 1. Arrange around your work surface for a.s.sembly: [image]the sushi rice in its cloth-covered bowl [image]the sheets of nori [image]your fillings [image]a bamboo rolling mat for forming the rolls, or a 9 x 10-inch sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil [image]2 forks [image]a clean, damp dishcloth CLICK TO SEE SOME FILLINGS FOR MAKI SUSHI.

[image]a sharp chef's knife [image]a plastic or wooden cutting board [image]a small saucer of rice vinegar (may be needed to seal the rolls) [image]a serving platter (a cake plate or small square platter works nicely) [image]condiments in serving bowls 2. Arrange the rolling mat in front of you, with the pieces of bamboo running horizontally (parallel to the edge of the work surface). Place a piece of nori on the mat, with the smoother side down.

3. Uncover the rice and use the spatula to section the rice into 6 parts. Scoop out one section and place it on the bottom half of the sheet of nori. Re-cover the remaining rice to keep it from drying out. Hold a fork in each hand, tines down, rounded side up. Use the forks like garden rakes to spread out the rice as evenly as possible over the bottom two-thirds of the nori. Don't leave any margins; spread the rice all the way to the edges. About 1 inch up from the bottom, use the side of a fork to push aside some of the rice and make a sort of depression or trough where the filling will go. The trough should extend all the way across the nori. Don't expose the nori, though; you want your filling to be enclosed in a layer of rice.

4. Lay the desired filling in the trough. It is okay to mound it rather high. You will compress it as you complete the roll. (You will quickly learn how much filling to use to produce a roll that is neither skimpy nor bulging.) 5. Slide the nori to the edge of the mat closest to you. Lifting the mat, not the nori, begin the roll by bringing the strip of rice closest to you to meet the strip of rice on the other side of the filling. Squeeze the mat gently but firmly, moving your hands along the entire length of the mat, to create a nice, even log shape. Now complete the roll, stopping every so often to gently squeeze the mat and shape the roll. At the end, give a final squeeze, hard enough to firm and seal the roll but not so hard that the filling oozes out the ends. If the nori doesn't seal, dip your finger in vinegar and wet the edge of the nori.

Set the finished roll aside and continue filling and rolling the remaining 5 sheets of nori.

6. When all the rolls are finished, cut each into 6 pieces. You will make the cleanest cuts if you use a wet knife, wipe it with the damp towel after every cut, and cut with a back-and-forth sawing motion instead of pressing down. Arrange the rolls cut side up on the serving platter. Serve with the soy sauce, wasabi, and pickled ginger.

california rolls YIELD: 3 rolls ; serves 2 to 4 pound cooked crabmeat, picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage1 to 4 teaspoons Chinese (hot) mustard, to your taste1 to 4 teaspoons mayonnaise, to your taste1 medium-size avocado (Ha.s.s is best)1 to 2 j.a.panese cuc.u.mbers or part of a long English one recipe Sushi Rice 3 sheets 3 sheets yaki sushi nori yaki sushi nori (toasted seaweed sheets) (toasted seaweed sheets)Toasted j.a.panese sesame seeds Soy sauce and wasabi paste, for serving Soy sauce and wasabi paste, for serving 1. Using two forks or your fingers, finely shred the crabmeat. Mix the crabmeat with a dab of Chinese mustard and enough mayonnaise to hold the crab together; start with 1 or 2 teaspoons. Add more mustard if you want a spicier flavor.

2. To prepare the avocado, cut it in half the long way, working your knife around the pit. Remove the pit and use a knife to score the avocado into slices about -inch thick. Don't cut all the way through the skin. Use a large soup spoon to scoop the slices right out of the avocado sh.e.l.l. If the avocado is large, you may wish to halve the slices lengthwise.Prepare the cuc.u.mbers.

3. For each California maki maki,spread the rice on the nori. In the trough, layer the crab salad, cuc.u.mber, and avocado strips. Sprinkle the rice generously with the sesame seeds. Roll up carefully and cut each maki maki into 6 pieces, wiping the knife with a damp towel between cuts. into 6 pieces, wiping the knife with a damp towel between cuts.

4. Serve with soy sauce and wasabi paste for dipping.

note: Toasted j.a.panese sesame seeds are light tan and sold in a shaker jar in j.a.panese markets; they are larger and more flavorful than ordinary sesame seeds and have already been toasted; toast them again in a small skillet to enhance the flavor. Toasted j.a.panese sesame seeds are light tan and sold in a shaker jar in j.a.panese markets; they are larger and more flavorful than ordinary sesame seeds and have already been toasted; toast them again in a small skillet to enhance the flavor.

variation: Shrimp-filled California rolls were the stars of the sushi platter at a j.a.panese restaurant in the shrimp-fishing town of Mazatlan, Mexico. Subst.i.tute pound poached shrimp, sh.e.l.led and finely chopped, for the crabmeat. Shrimp-filled California rolls were the stars of the sushi platter at a j.a.panese restaurant in the shrimp-fishing town of Mazatlan, Mexico. Subst.i.tute pound poached shrimp, sh.e.l.led and finely chopped, for the crabmeat.

inari zushi These stuffed tofu pockets are great picnic or lunch box sushi; they travel well and are neat and easy to eat. Despite their exotic look, they are not difficult to make. You buy the tofu pockets packaged and ready to go in Asian markets. Look for packages marked "fried bean curd" or "seasoned fried bean curd" (ajitsuke inari age). Shirakiku is one brand.

Inari zushi can be starkly simple; vine-gared sushi rice is a delicious filling on its own. You can add toasted sesame seeds, cooked egg, bits of vegetables like seasoned shiitake mushrooms or blanched grated carrot, or cooked fish. Whatever ingredients you mix with the rice should be soft and diced, shredded, or minced very finely. If you keep the tofu pockets on hand in the freezer, you can pull out a few whenever you make can be starkly simple; vine-gared sushi rice is a delicious filling on its own. You can add toasted sesame seeds, cooked egg, bits of vegetables like seasoned shiitake mushrooms or blanched grated carrot, or cooked fish. Whatever ingredients you mix with the rice should be soft and diced, shredded, or minced very finely. If you keep the tofu pockets on hand in the freezer, you can pull out a few whenever you make maki maki or hand roll sushi; finely chop your leftover fillings, mix with vinegared rice, and stuff a few or hand roll sushi; finely chop your leftover fillings, mix with vinegared rice, and stuff a few inari zushi inari zushi. If you are short on time, you can just add a package of the prepared vegetable mix called gomoku sushi no moto gomoku sushi no moto to freshly cooked hot rice. (This product typically is sold in cans or plastic pouches.)These vegetable mixes include the vinegar; you just mix them into the hot rice while fanning to cool. to freshly cooked hot rice. (This product typically is sold in cans or plastic pouches.)These vegetable mixes include the vinegar; you just mix them into the hot rice while fanning to cool.

When you shop for tofu pockets, you are likely to see three styles. One (ajitsuke inari age) (ajitsuke inari age), sold frozen in a plastic boil-in bag, is already seasoned and ready to use after thawing or boiling for about 10 minutes in a covered pot of boiling water. A second kind is canned; it is the easiest to use but not as tasty as frozen or fresh age age. The third style is fresh, abura age abura age. It is sold in plastic bags at Asian markets and, please note, it is not seasoned.

6 fresh or canned abura age abura ageBoiling water2 cups dashi cup soy sauce cup soy sauce cup mirin (sweet rice wine) cup sugar recipe (Sushi Rice), mixed with additional filling ingredients as desired 1. To use canned or fresh abura age abura age, open the bag or can and place the desired number of pouches in a large bowl or a colander in the sink. Pour boiling water over the pouches to remove excess oil. (Or blanch them for a minute or two in a pot of boiling water.) 2. Slice each pouch in half crosswise and gently open it up with your fingers, as you would open a pita half. Then season by simmering in a small pot with Dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. Continue simmering the tofu pouches for 20 to 30 minutes more, covered with a sheet of parchment paper, a saucer, the lid to a slightly smaller pan, or an otoshi buta otoshi buta (a flat wooden drop lid designed to keep simmering items submerged and yet allow some steam to escape; they are sold in j.a.panese markets or hardware stores). (a flat wooden drop lid designed to keep simmering items submerged and yet allow some steam to escape; they are sold in j.a.panese markets or hardware stores).

3. To stuff, drain, then let the tofu pouches cool until you can handle them. Gently use your fingers to open one, being careful not to tear it. (Again, this is somewhat like opening a pita.) Fill with sushi rice. For the neatest looking inari zushi inari zushi and to lessen the chance of ripping the pouch, shape the rice into a small oval first. Place about 3 tablespoons of your rice stuffing on a square of plastic wrap. Bring the ends of the plastic wrap tightly together and use your fingers to gently but firmly shape the rice into an oval. Remove the plastic and carefully insert the rice into the tofu pouch. (You can also shape the rice b.a.l.l.s by hand, dampening your hands first with vinegar water.) and to lessen the chance of ripping the pouch, shape the rice into a small oval first. Place about 3 tablespoons of your rice stuffing on a square of plastic wrap. Bring the ends of the plastic wrap tightly together and use your fingers to gently but firmly shape the rice into an oval. Remove the plastic and carefully insert the rice into the tofu pouch. (You can also shape the rice b.a.l.l.s by hand, dampening your hands first with vinegar water.) chirashi sushi (osaka style) In Tokyo, chirashi chirashi sushi is like unconstructed sushi is like unconstructed nigiri nigiri or or maki maki sushi, except the ingredients are layered in a bowl. It is typically made with slices of raw fish, vegetables, and other ingredients, beautifully arranged on a bed of rice. In Osaka, though, sushi, except the ingredients are layered in a bowl. It is typically made with slices of raw fish, vegetables, and other ingredients, beautifully arranged on a bed of rice. In Osaka, though, chirashi chirashi sushi is a more casual dish, somewhat akin to a rice salad. Sometimes called sushi is a more casual dish, somewhat akin to a rice salad. Sometimes called barazushi barazushi or or maze gohan maze gohan (mixed rice), it is frequently made at home or for parties with friends and family. Like a potato salad, it is subject to the cook's skill, tastes, and whims, and the ingredients can vary enormously. Here is the way Julie's colleague Sharon Noguchi makes it. Sharon is a terrific cook whose family came to San Francisco from the Osaka area about a hundred years ago. Sharon notes that it's considered lucky to make (mixed rice), it is frequently made at home or for parties with friends and family. Like a potato salad, it is subject to the cook's skill, tastes, and whims, and the ingredients can vary enormously. Here is the way Julie's colleague Sharon Noguchi makes it. Sharon is a terrific cook whose family came to San Francisco from the Osaka area about a hundred years ago. Sharon notes that it's considered lucky to make chirashi chirashi sushi with an odd number of ingredients: five or seven, usually. She uses seven. sushi with an odd number of ingredients: five or seven, usually. She uses seven.

The vinegar dressing Sharon uses is much sweeter and more abundant than that used in the maki maki sushi recipe, which we learned from a Tokyo-born cook. Sharon's seasoned shiitake mushrooms, too, are sweeter and much less salty. If you like the Osaka-style sushi rice, by all means use these vinegar dressing proportions to make rice for sushi recipe, which we learned from a Tokyo-born cook. Sharon's seasoned shiitake mushrooms, too, are sweeter and much less salty. If you like the Osaka-style sushi rice, by all means use these vinegar dressing proportions to make rice for maki maki sushi, hand rolls or sushi, hand rolls or inari zushi inari zushi.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular or SushiYIELD: Serves 10 to 12RICE4 cups (5 rice cooker cups) high-quality sushi riceAbout 4 cups water cup rice vinegar cup sugar1 teaspoon saltINGREDIENT LAYERSKampyo ( (dried gourd strips)Grated Carrots Seasoned Shiitake Mushrooms Seasoned Shiitake Mushrooms Peas or snow peas Peas or snow peasj.a.panese Omelet 1 teaspoon to 3 to 4 tablespoons red pickled ginger strips ( 1 teaspoon to 3 to 4 tablespoons red pickled ginger strips (beni shoga), to your tasteAbout ounce shredded nori (kizami nori) (about 1 loosely packed cup) 1. Make the rice: Make the rice: Wash it as directed for Sushi Rice. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. If your machine has a Sushi cycle, add the amount of water directed. If not, add the water so that it's under the 5-cup water line in the rice bowl (about 41.8 cups). Soak the rice for about 30 minutes. Set for the regular or Sushi cycle. Wash it as directed for Sushi Rice. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. If your machine has a Sushi cycle, add the amount of water directed. If not, add the water so that it's under the 5-cup water line in the rice bowl (about 41.8 cups). Soak the rice for about 30 minutes. Set for the regular or Sushi cycle.

2. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt and heat on the stove or in a micro wave oven just until the sugar and salt melt. Let the mixture cool. (If you're short on time, cool quickly by placing the container in a larger bowl of ice water.) 3. When the rice is ready, prepare it as described in steps 6 and 7 for Sushi Rice. Cover it with a clean, damp towel and leave at room temperature until you are ready to proceed.

4. Uncover your prepared rice and add the prepared kampyo kampyo, mushrooms, and carrots. Mix well with a dampened rice spatula, holding the spatula vertically and using the same cutting and lifting motions you did to mix the rice and vinegar.

5. Arrange the rice in a large serving bowl. Smooth the top without smashing the rice. Top the rice with the peas in a single layer, then with the omelet strips. Arrange a few red pickled ginger strips decoratively on top of the omelet strips or just make a little pile in the center.

6. Just before serving (you don't want it to get soggy), sprinkle on the nori strips. If you can't find kizami nori kizami nori, buy ajitsuke nori ajitsuke nori (seasoned) in strips and use scissors to cut the strips into fine shreds. (seasoned) in strips and use scissors to cut the strips into fine shreds.

Chirashi sushi can be made several hours ahead of time. If you are making sushi can be made several hours ahead of time. If you are making chirashi chirashi sushi 2 hours or less before you intend to serve it, complete the dish up through the ginger topping and let it rest, tightly covered, at cool room temperature. Add the nori just before serving. sushi 2 hours or less before you intend to serve it, complete the dish up through the ginger topping and let it rest, tightly covered, at cool room temperature. Add the nori just before serving.

If you must make chirashi chirashi sushi 2 to about 8 hours ahead, complete the recipe up through adding the peas. Store the sushi 2 to about 8 hours ahead, complete the recipe up through adding the peas. Store the chirashi chirashi sushi tightly covered at room temperature. An oversize plastic container with a snap-on lid is perfect for this-authentic Tupperware will preserve it best. Refrigerate the omelet strips, tightly covered. When you are ready to serve, finish a.s.sembling the dish, adding the nori at the very last minute. sushi tightly covered at room temperature. An oversize plastic container with a snap-on lid is perfect for this-authentic Tupperware will preserve it best. Refrigerate the omelet strips, tightly covered. When you are ready to serve, finish a.s.sembling the dish, adding the nori at the very last minute.

kampyo (dried gourd strips) These are white strips of a dried gourd; the long strands look like fettuccine. They must be soaked with salt to soften, then cooked and seasoned before use. They may look strange, and they're a bit of work to prepare, but they are moist, sweet, and delicious. You can find kampyo kampyo in plastic packets on the shelf in Asian markets. in plastic packets on the shelf in Asian markets.

About 1 ounce kampyo kampyo4 teaspoons salt1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water2 tablespoons sugar2 to 3 tablespoons soy sauce, to your taste cup Sharon's Dashi 1 tablespoon sake 1 tablespoon sake 1. Place the kampyo kampyo in a bowl with the salt and 2 tablespoons of the water. Knead it with your hands for a few minutes, rubbing the salt into the strips. Add the remaining 1 cup of water and let soak for 20 minutes. in a bowl with the salt and 2 tablespoons of the water. Knead it with your hands for a few minutes, rubbing the salt into the strips. Add the remaining 1 cup of water and let soak for 20 minutes.

2. Ma.s.sage the softened kampyo kampyo strips with your fingers, smoothing out any that are curled up. Drain the salted water from the bowl, add fresh cool water to the bowl, and ma.s.sage the strips with your fingers, smoothing out any that are curled up. Drain the salted water from the bowl, add fresh cool water to the bowl, and ma.s.sage the kampyo kampyo underwater to remove as much salt as possible. Drain and rinse again. underwater to remove as much salt as possible. Drain and rinse again.

3. Place the kampyo kampyo in a small saucepan with the sugar, soy sauce, dashi, and sake. in a small saucepan with the sugar, soy sauce, dashi, and sake.

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the kampyo kampyo (not the pan) with a circle of parchment paper cut just a bit smaller than the diameter of the pan; a small saucer; the lid to a slightly smaller pan; or an (not the pan) with a circle of parchment paper cut just a bit smaller than the diameter of the pan; a small saucer; the lid to a slightly smaller pan; or an otoshi buta otoshi buta, a flat wooden drop lid designed to keep simmering items submerged and yet allow some steam to escape. (They are sold in several sizes in j.a.panese markets or hardware stores.) Let the kampyo kampyo cook about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is absorbed. The cook about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid is absorbed. The kampyo kampyo will be shiny and amber-colored. It should be tender, not rubbery; if it's not tender, cook it longer. Drain. will be shiny and amber-colored. It should be tender, not rubbery; if it's not tender, cook it longer. Drain.

4. When the kampyo kampyo is cool enough to work with, line up the strands on a cutting board, and dice. is cool enough to work with, line up the strands on a cutting board, and dice.

grated carrots 1 large or 2 medium-size carrots1 cups Sharon's Dashi teaspoon salt teaspoon salt 1. Peel and grate the carrots.

2. Bring the dashi and salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the carrots. When the liquid returns to a boil, immediately drain the carrots and run cold water over them to stop the cooking.

seasoned shiitake mushrooms 6 large dried shiitake mushrooms cup Sharon's Dashi cup soy sauce cup soy sauce cup sugar3 tablespoons sakeCLICK TO SEE ALTERNATE TOPPINGS FOR CHIRASHI SUSHI 1. Place the mushrooms in a small bowl;add warm water to just cover. Let the mushrooms soak until softened, 2 to 4 hours at room temperature. (If you are short on time, soak in hot water for 1 hour, or cover the bowl of mushrooms and water tightly with plastic wrap and micro wave for 2 minutes on high. Allow to cool before proceeding.) 2. Drain and cut the mushrooms into 1.8inch-wide strips, or as thinly as possible, discarding the stems.

3. Combine the dashi, soy sauce, sugar, and sake in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. When the mixture boils, add the mushroom slices and stir. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the mushrooms (not the pan) with a circle of parchment paper cut just a bit smaller than the diameter of the pan, a small saucer, the lid to a slightly smaller pan, or an otoshi buta otoshi buta, a flat wooden drop lid designed to keep simmering items submerged and yet allow some steam to escape. (They are sold in several sizes in j.a.panese markets or hardware stores.) Let the mushrooms simmer slowly for about 20 minutes. Most of the liquid will be absorbed or evaporated and the mushrooms will have turned a caramel color. Drain any remaining liquid.

peas 1 cups Sharon's Dashi1 teaspoon saltOne 12-ounce package frozen pet.i.te peas Bring the dashi and salt to a boil in a medium-size saucepan. Add the peas and cook briefly, about 1 minute, just until thawed and separate. Drain the peas and cool quickly under cold running water.

snow peas: Subst.i.tute 2 cups snow peas, trimmed of tough strings and sliced on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-wide strips. Subst.i.tute 2 cups snow peas, trimmed of tough strings and sliced on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-wide strips.

j.a.panese omelet 2 large or extra-large eggs1 teaspoon sugar1 tablespoon mirin (sweet rice wine) or sake (for a less sweet omelet)Pinch of salt1 teaspoon mild vegetable oil 1. Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl with the sugar, mirin, and salt.

2. Coat a 10-inch nonstick skillet with the oil. Heat the skillet over low heat. Pour in the egg mixture, cover the skillet, and cook, undisturbed, until the egg is set but not browned, about 2 minutes, or longer, if needed.

3. Flip the omelet out of the pan and onto a cutting board. (If the omelet is cooked through, it should pop right out.) A perfect omelet will be all yellow, with no browned spots.

4. When the omelet is cool enough to handle, cut into 2-inch-wide strips. Stack the strips and slice into thin slivers.

THE BASICS: RISOTTO IN THE RICE COOKERThere are three distinct steps to making risotto: cooking the onion and rice, adding the stock and other ingredients, and adding the b.u.t.ter and cheese to finish, known as "creaming." Note that Arborio rice is never washed; you want all the starch to make the creamy dish just right.1. Risotto must be made by first sauteing chopped onion in b.u.t.ter (or half b.u.t.ter and half olive oil), then sauteing the rice in the hot fat. You can saute the onion and rice right in the rice cooker bowl before adding the liquid; then it will just finish cooking on the Porridge or regular cycle. If you have a nonstick rice cooker bowl, you can use a bit less fat.Place the b.u.t.ter, in pieces, in the rice cooker bowl. Set the bowl into the machine body. Plug in. Set the rice cooker to start the Porridge or regular cycle (use the Quick Cook cycle if your regular cycle has a built-in soaking period). The b.u.t.ter will melt in 1 to 2 minutes. Leave the cover open or off (some cookers will shut off if the cover is left off). Add the chopped onion, leeks, or shallots; cook until soft and any liquid they exude has evaporated, stirring a few times. Add wine, if using, and cook to burn off the alcohol, a minute or two. Add the measured amount of rice to the hot fat and stir with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The rice will gradually heat up and gently sizzle. Stir occasionally, and gently, with the wooden spoon or rice paddle. Give the rice a full 3 to 5 minutes to cook and coat the grains, just like for a pilaf. This precooks the outer coating of the rice to keep the grains separate and release their amylopectin, while slowly absorbing and cooking in the aromatic stock later on.2. Add the stock and any other ingredients as specified in the recipe. Stir a few times. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge cycle, if your machine has it, or the regular cycle. While cooking, open the cooker once or twice and stir gently, but this is optional. If you are using an on/off cooker or one without a Porridge cycle, set a timer for 20 minutes to time the cooking.3. At the end of the Porridge cycle or when the timer sounds, turn off the machine or unplug it to stop cooking. If the risotto is too thick, add to cup stock; if it is too soupy, allow it to cook longer, checking at 5-minute intervals. When the rice is al dente al dente and the texture is like that of oatmeal, it is ready. Stir the risotto a few times, adding the b.u.t.ter and cheese, if using. Serve immediately in shallow soup bowls with more Parmesan cheese for sprinkling (use as much as you like) and the pepper grinder. If you're not ready to serve, you can hold the risotto on the Keep Warm cycle for up to an hour, stirring in the b.u.t.ter and cheese right before serving. and the texture is like that of oatmeal, it is ready. Stir the risotto a few times, adding the b.u.t.ter and cheese, if using. Serve immediately in shallow soup bowls with more Parmesan cheese for sprinkling (use as much as you like) and the pepper grinder. If you're not ready to serve, you can hold the risotto on the Keep Warm cycle for up to an hour, stirring in the b.u.t.ter and cheese right before serving.Use the following chart to help adapt your own risotto recipes to the rice cooker.A NOTE ABOUT STORAGESome sushi, especially that containing raw fish, is eaten soon after it is made. But other types of sushi, especially inari zushi inari zushi or the Osaka-style or the Osaka-style chirashi chirashi sushi, can be made hours ahead. Store in an airtight container at sushi, can be made hours ahead. Store in an airtight container at cool cool room temperature. Don't refrigerate unless absolutely necessary; the rice will harden. room temperature. Don't refrigerate unless absolutely necessary; the rice will harden.A NOTE ABOUT RAW FISHMany sushi recipes call for the use of raw fish. You would be crazy to go to the supermarket, casually buy a piece offish from the case, and go home and slice it up raw for sushi. Only the freshest, cleanest (and we're speaking microscopically here), best quality fish that has been meticulously monitored at every step in the supply chain is deemed suitable to be eaten raw. If you are lucky enough to live in an area with a good j.a.panese market or to have some j.a.panese friends who like to make sushi, no problem. Go to the market and ask for sushi-quality fish, or ask your friends where you should buy it. Maybe your local sushi bar will sell you some. It will be expensive, but you don't need very much. Always eat raw fish the day it is purchased. If sushi-quality fish is not available in your town, content yourself with the many kinds of sushi that do not involve raw fish. You can make a huge and delicious array of dishes with cooked fish and seafood, vegetables, and eggs.SOME FILLINGS FOR MAKI SUSHI[image]Cuc.u.mber: j.a.panese cuc.u.mbers are small, slender, and less watery than the American or even the long English ones. If you can't find j.a.panese cuc.u.mbers, the English variety is a good subst.i.tute. To cut them for sushi: Cut the unpeeled cuc.u.mber on the diagonal into slices about inch thick, forming long ovals. Stack the ovals and cut into thin matchsticks. If you use English cuc.u.mbers, you may want to let the pieces wait for you on a double layer of paper towels so that any extra moisture is absorbed. j.a.panese cuc.u.mbers are small, slender, and less watery than the American or even the long English ones. If you can't find j.a.panese cuc.u.mbers, the English variety is a good subst.i.tute. To cut them for sushi: Cut the unpeeled cuc.u.mber on the diagonal into slices about inch thick, forming long ovals. Stack the ovals and cut into thin matchsticks. If you use English cuc.u.mbers, you may want to let the pieces wait for you on a double layer of paper towels so that any extra moisture is absorbed.[image]Radish sprouts: These long white sprouts topped by delicate green leaves make a tasty, slightly spicy addition to sushi rolls. To use, trim away the roots, then wash the sprouts by swishing them gently in a bowl of cold water. Let dry on a double layer of paper towels. These long white sprouts topped by delicate green leaves make a tasty, slightly spicy addition to sushi rolls. To use, trim away the roots, then wash the sprouts by swishing them gently in a bowl of cold water. Let dry on a double layer of paper towels.[image] Broiled eel (unagi kabayaki): Broiled eel (unagi kabayaki):Unagi kabayaki is is eel that has been steamed, broiled, and seasoned with a slightly thick, slightly sweet sauce. This procedure is considered to be beyond the scope of most home cooks, but fortunately, you can buy already prepared eel that has been steamed, broiled, and seasoned with a slightly thick, slightly sweet sauce. This procedure is considered to be beyond the scope of most home cooks, but fortunately, you can buy already prepared unagi unagi frozen or canned. To use frozen frozen or canned. To use frozen unagi unagi, place the unopened package in a pot of boiling water that is large enough to hold it. Boil the package for 10 minutes, covered, then remove from the water. When the package is cool enough to handle, cut it open and remove the eel. To slice for sushi, cut the eel crosswise into pieces 2 to 3 inches wide. Then cut each piece lengthwise into thin strips (about inch wide). It is okay to eat the skin. Eel and cuc.u.mber (use plenty of each) is a cla.s.sic sushi combination called unakyu unakyu. (You can eat any leftover eel with plain rice as a simple donburi donburi.)[image]Shiitake mushrooms: Dried shiitake mushrooms are softened by soaking in water, then seasoned by simmering in a small amount of flavorful liquid. They are a very tasty and popular sushi filling. To prepare 8 medium-size dried shiitake mushrooms: Place the mushrooms in a small bowl; add water to just cover. Let the mushrooms soak until softened, 2 to 4 hours at room temperature. (If you are short on time, soak in hot water for 1 hour, or cover the bowl of mushrooms and water tightly with plastic wrap and microwave for 2 minutes on high. Allow to cool before proceeding.) Squeeze any liquid from the mushrooms, reserving it. Cut the tough stems from the mushrooms and slice the mushrooms into matchsticks. Slowly pour the mushroom soaking liquid into a small saucepan, being careful to leave any grit behind in the bowl. To the saucepan add about 2 tablespoons each sake, mirin (sweet rice wine), and soy sauce. Add teaspoon salt and, if desired, teaspoon chicken bouillon granules (or cube). Add the mushrooms and cook over medium-high heat until most of the liquid is absorbed. Remove the mushrooms from any remaining liquid. Dried shiitake mushrooms are softened by soaking in water, then seasoned by simmering in a small amount of flavorful liquid. They are a very tasty and popular sushi filling. To prepare 8 medium-size dried shiitake mushrooms: Place the mushrooms in a small bowl; add water to just cover. Let the mushrooms soak until softened, 2 to 4 hours at room temperature. (If you are short on time, soak in hot water for 1 hour, or cover the bowl of mushrooms and water tightly with plastic wrap and microwave for 2 minutes on high. Allow to cool before proceeding.) Squeeze any liquid from the mushrooms, reserving it. Cut the tough stems from the mushrooms and slice the mushrooms into matchsticks. Slowly pour the mushroom soaking liquid into a small saucepan, being careful to leave any grit behind in the bowl. To the saucepan add about 2 tablespoons each sake, mirin (sweet rice wine), and soy sauce. Add teaspoon salt and, if desired, teaspoon chicken bouillon granules (or cube). Add the mushrooms and cook over medium-high heat until most of the liquid is absorbed. Remove the mushrooms from any remaining liquid.If you want to use fresh shiitakes for sushi, skip the soaking step and season by cooking them with sake, mirin, and soy sauce as above, adding a bit of Dashi, if needed.[image]Scrambled eggs: Finely crumbled, seasoned scrambled eggs are popular as a rice topping as well as a sushi filling. They are a lot easier to make than the thin j.a.panese omelets. Beat 2 eggs in a bowl with teaspoon potato starch (also called potato starch flour; do not use regular potato flour! If you don't have an Asian market in your town, you can find potato starch with the kosher foods in large supermarkets), teaspoon water, 2 rounded teaspoons sugar, teaspoon salt, and 2 drops soy sauce. Coat an 8-inch skillet with nonstick cooking spray. Place the skillet over high heat. When it is hot, add the egg mixture and cook, stirring with chopsticks or a spatula to break up the egg into firm but tender fine crumbles. Let cool before using. Finely crumbled, seasoned scrambled eggs are popular as a rice topping as well as a sushi filling. They are a lot easier to make than the thin j.a.panese omelets. Beat 2 eggs in a bowl with teaspoon potato starch (also called potato starch flour; do not use regular potato flour! If you don't have an Asian market in your town, you can find potato starch with the kosher foods in large supermarkets), teaspoon water, 2 rounded teaspoons sugar, teaspoon salt, and 2 drops soy sauce. Coat an 8-inch skillet with nonstick cooking spray. Place the skillet over high heat. When it is hot, add the egg mixture and cook, stirring with chopsticks or a spatula to break up the egg into firm but tender fine crumbles. Let cool before using.[image] Raw tuna: Raw tuna: If you can buy sushi-quality tuna in your town, by all means go ahead! It makes simple and delicious If you can buy sushi-quality tuna in your town, by all means go ahead! It makes simple and delicious maki maki. Just cut the tuna into strips the thickness of a pencil. You can add radish sprouts if desired. One-half pound of tuna will fill 6 rolls very generously.ALTERNATE TOPPINGS FOR CHIRASHI SUs.h.i.toasted Sesame SeedsIri gomi are readily available in Asian groceries and convenient to have around for sprinkling on anything, even plain rice. They are pan-toasted for this dish, even though they are already toasted, as toasting them again enhances the flavor considerably. This is an alternative topping instead of the are readily available in Asian groceries and convenient to have around for sprinkling on anything, even plain rice. They are pan-toasted for this dish, even though they are already toasted, as toasting them again enhances the flavor considerably. This is an alternative topping instead of the kampyo kampyo.

cup j.a.panese toasted sesame seeds (iri gomi) Place the sesame seeds in a small, dry skillet over medium heat and shake the pan until evenly toasted, 2 to 3 minutes.Kamaboko (j.a.panese Fish Cakes)Kamaboko are steamed fish cakes, often with the distinctive pink-dyed edges. They are sold fully cooked and can be found in the refrigerator section of Asian markets. This is an alternative topping instead of the are steamed fish cakes, often with the distinctive pink-dyed edges. They are sold fully cooked and can be found in the refrigerator section of Asian markets. This is an alternative topping instead of the kampyo kampyo. Cut half a kamaboko kamaboko into thin strips. into thin strips.

the whole-grain COOKER Basic Pearled Barley Basic Brown Barley Four-Grain Pilaf j.a.panese Barley and Rice Basic Couscous Prune Couscous Zucchini Couscous Israeli Couscous with Orange Basic Farro Farrowith Shiitakes Basic Buckwheat Groats Kasha Varnishkes Basic Millet Basic Quinoa Orange Dessert Quinoa Basic Rye Berries Mary's Rice and Rye Pilaf Basic Wheat Berries Wheat Berry and Wild Rice Pilaf Basic Bulgur Cracked Wheat Bulgar Wheat Pilaf Basic Wild Rice Wild Rice with Dried Cherries and Scallions Wild Rice and Bulgur with Leeks and Toasted Almonds Wild Rice with Fennel and Dried Cranberries There is a saying that good things come in small packages. Well, when it comes to grains, including rice, that is an understatement. They come in diminutive packages, ready to contribute to your health and well-being like no other food. The cereal gra.s.ses-wheat, maize (corn), rye, millet, buckwheat, barley, and rice-are the building blocks of civilization, for with their domestication begins the history of the world and enough dependable, high-powered fuel food to feed it.

The history of grains reaches far back into the ancient, unwritten past, with humans gathering the fruits of wild gra.s.ses for food. The great cultures of antiquity grew up from the prehistoric times around cereal graingrowing areas, referred to as hearths of domestication, giving rise to the many scholarly debates about when and why our ancestors turned from being hunters and gatherers to settled agriculturalists. Surprisingly, the invention of agriculture arose independently in very diverse locales at the same time. All practical implications aside, there can be no generalizations on the complex factors that brought primitive humans to tilling the earth and domesticating princ.i.p.al grain crops. It is even postulated that the deliberate planting of seeds of native wild gra.s.ses was an act that had magico-religious motives. Simply speaking, life as we know it would certainly be impossible without cereal grains.

Early civilized life is mostly chronicled from the fecund environments in easily cultivated areas such as the rich river valleys of the Tigris and Euphrates, the Lower and Upper Nile in Egypt and Abyssinia, the Yang-shao in China, and the Indus in India. Based on archaeological evidence and plant genetics, by the time Egypt and Sumer on the Euphrates River were fledgling civilizations, wheat and barley were long considered the staff of life in Europe and the Middle East, rice was the central grain of southern China and India, and maize and quinoa flourished in the tropics of Meso-America and South America.

Grains have been tireless travelers, spreading around the globe overland by horseback and camelback, over and through the air by the winds and in the beaks of birds, by sea clipper, and in the carefully guarded pockets and pouches of wanderers on foot. From pots cooked over open fires and woodstoves to our plug-in rice cooker, you can safely consider these grains as a gift to us from these ancient cultures. Amazingly enough, they have been cooked in the exact same manner for all time. Only the cooking vessel has evolved.

Just as you cook rice in your rice cooker, you can cook whole grains. You use exactly the same technique, which is to press the reg-ular/ Brown Rice cycle b.u.t.ton. The machine does the rest. Be prepared for different aromas and very different textures; each whole grain has a character unto itself. Terms such as "groat" and "berry" are references to the hulled whole grain. If the bran layer on the grain is especially tough, a soak may be in order to help with the cooking. If you end up with whole grains that are too wet, just drain off the excess water as if you were cooking on the stovetop. If your grains are too dry, drizzle them with another cup water and continue cooking or leave on the Keep Warm cycle. As with rice, if you turn off the machine and leave the lid closed, the inherent warmth of the environment will keep your grains warm for an hour.

basic pearled barley While most of the barley grown in this country goes to brewing beer, you can still find pearled barley on most supermarket shelves. It is called pearled barley since, when cooked, it looks just like little pearl seeds. A favorite in soups because of its comforting digestive quality, pearled barley is a nice alternative to rice, works well in a grain and rice combination, and can be cooked like risotto. Barley is also great in salads or stuffed peppers. Pearled barley is hulled, so it is very white, needs no soaking, and cooks in under an hour. It is not not the same as what is sold as "Quick Barley," which is precooked and dried, and cooks up very mushy. You want barley to be chewy. the same as what is sold as "Quick Barley," which is precooked and dried, and cooks up very mushy. You want barley to be chewy.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 3 cups; serves 41 cup pearled barley2 cups plus 2 tablespoons waterPinch of salt 1. Place the barley in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/ Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the barley steam for 15 minutes. If there is water left over, drain it off; if it is too dry, drizzle with hot water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and let steam until the barley has the right texture. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon, and let the barley cool in the bowl or serve hot. It will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

basic brown barley Whole-grain hulled barley looks like the brown rice of barley; only its outer layer has been removed. It is also marketed as pot barley. Brown barley takes more water than pearled barley, usually calling for an overnight soak. There are strains of barley on the market called hull-less under the name of Nu-Barley; there is Black Buffalo (yes, it is black) and Bronze Nugget (golden), both from Western Trails-use these with this recipe. You can use brown barley just like pearled barley, but it is chewier and more nutritious. Cooked barley can be left at room temperature all day, so that it stays soft when you reheat it.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 3 cups; serves 41 cup whole-grain hulled barley2 cups waterPinch of salt1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter, margarine, or olive oil 1. Place the barley in the rice cooker bowl and add the water; let soak in the machine for 1 hour. Add the salt and b.u.t.ter; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the barley steam for 15 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon, and let the barley cool in the bowl or serve hot. It will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

four-grain pilaf Barley, wild rice, short-grain brown rice, and wheat berries all cook in the same amount of time. Here they are combined with some aromatics to make a delicious winter side dish.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: Serves 4 cup pearled barley cup wild rice cup short-grain brown rice cup wheat berries2 cups vegetable stock2 thin slices red onion teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves or teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon saltPinch offreshly grated nutmegExtra virgin olive oil 1. Place the barley, rices, and wheat berries in the rice cooker bowl and add the stock; let soak in the machine for 30 minutes. Add the onion, thyme, salt, and nutmeg; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the grains steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the grains with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This dish will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot, garnished with a drizzle of olive oil.

j.a.panese barley and rice Cooking barley with some brown rice in a miso broth is an incredibly satisfying way to eat your grains. This would be the style of a homemade rice dish in some country hamlet in the mountains of j.a.pan. It is distinctive and pleasing. Serve with a raw salad of leafy greens vinaigrette and broiled chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: Serves 4 to 61 cup pearled barley2 cups warm water3 tablespoons white miso cup short-grain brown rice3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted, for garnishPickled ginger, cold cubed tofu, and minced green onion, for garnish 1. Place the barley in the rice cooker bowl and cover with hot water; let soak in the machine for 1 hour. Drain the barley and return it to the rice cooker.

2. In a small bowl, combine cup of the water with the miso; whisk to break up the miso. Add the miso water to the drained barley along with the remaining 13.4 cups water and the rice; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the grains steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the grains with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This dish will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

4. Serve hot, garnished with a sprinkling of sesame seeds and a few strips of pickled ginger, tofu, and green onion.

basic couscous The Berbers of North Africa have a granular semolina cereal called couscous, which is steamed in a special two-part steaming pot called a coucousiere coucousiere. We fell in love with couscous years ago, when this staple starch of Morocco began to appear regularly in supermarkets. Almost all of the couscous available in the United States is an instant refined variety, whether or not it says so on the box or bin, although health food stores often carry whole wheat couscous. Couscous is quick and easy to prepare in the rice cooker. It is a go-with-anything side dish, a bed for spicy stews, and a wonderful change from pasta or rice in hearty salads. Couscous can be prepared with apple juice and cinnamon for a sweeter breakfast-style dish.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: About 2 cups; serves 21 cup couscous, refined or whole wheat1 cup water2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter or olive oil teaspoon salt 1. Place the couscous, water, b.u.t.ter, and salt in the rice cooker bowl; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the couscous steam for 5 minutes. Fluff the grains with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This couscous will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

prune couscous Couscous is easy to dress up. Here we made an herbed dried fruit version. While you might think this combination offruit, herbs, and nuts unusual, this is a traditional Turkish-style treatment of the grain. It goes well with roasted poultry.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 42 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup sliced almonds1 medium-size yellow onion, chopped1 cup diced pitted prunes, preferably moist-pack cup chicken stock cup unsweetened prune juice2 teaspoons dried mixed herb blend, such as Italian seasoning1 cup couscous, refined or whole wheat3 green onions, white parts and an inch of the green parts, chopped, for garnish 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the b.u.t.ter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the almonds and yellow onion. Cook, stirring a few times, until the onion and nuts are soft and just starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the prunes, stock, prune juice, herb blend, and couscous; swirl to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the couscous steam for 5 minutes. Fluff with a plastic or wooden rice paddle or wooden spoon. This couscous will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

3. Mound the couscous on a serving platter, garnish with the green onions, and serve hot or warm.

zucchini couscous Another quick and filling couscous to whip up for dinner. Chickpeas have a natural affinity for couscous; wait until you taste them together.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 42 tablespoons olive oil1 pounds zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch cubes teapoon ground c.u.min1 cup water1 cup couscous, refined or whole wheat1 cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1. Set the machine for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the oil in the rice bowl. When hot, add the zucchini and c.u.min. Cook, stirring a few times, just to take the raw edge off of the c.u.min, about 2 minutes. Add the water, couscous, and chickpeas; swirl to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the couscous steam for 5 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This couscous will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

CLICK TO SEE ABOUT COUSCOUS.

israeli couscous with orange Israeli couscous is larger than regular couscous, and the little pasta bits are perfectly round. It is a type of couscous growing in popularity in the United States, and no wonder. It is tender, with a slightly toasty taste, and it takes happily to almost any kind of herb or seasoning. It cooks up beautifully in the rice cooker. The brand we found is Osem, which is imported from Israel. This savory dish is positively addicting.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 41 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil1 medium-size shallot, minced1 cup Israeli couscous2 cups chicken stock teaspoon salt, if unsalted stock is used teaspoon grated orange zest2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the oil in the rice bowl. When hot, add the shallot, and let soften in the oil, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the couscous and cook until aromatic and lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the stock and salt, if needed. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the couscous steam for 10 minutes. Open the cover and add the orange zest and parsley. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon to loosen the grains and blend in the zest and parsley. This couscous will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot or warm.

israeli couscous with orange and olives: Omit the parsley. Stir in 2 tablespoons sliced pitted Kalamata olives with the orange zest. Omit the parsley. Stir in 2 tablespoons sliced pitted Kalamata olives with the orange zest.

israeli couscous with orange and almonds: Omit the parsley. Stir in 2 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds with the orange zest. Omit the parsley. Stir in 2 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds with the orange zest.

israeli couscous with mushrooms: Omit orange zest. Increase the oil to 2 tablespoons. Saute cup sliced fresh mushrooms along with the shallot. Omit orange zest. Increase the oil to 2 tablespoons. Saute cup sliced fresh mushrooms along with the shallot.

basic farro Our agent, Martha Ca.s.selman, sent Beth a bag offarro imported from Italy by Bartolini, with the label "Farro Semiperlato," which looked just like regular wheat berries. What should we do with them, we wondered? Farro is a different strain of wheat than the one that gives us plain wheat berries; the grains are larger and redder. It is descended from emmer, one of the earliest wheats in the Middle East, and the grain of choice in ancient Egypt and the highlands of Abyssinia, at the source of the Nile. This was the wheat the Egyptians were using when they discovered wild yeasts and made their first breads; it was the wheat the Romans ate. Over time, emmer evolved naturally into durum wheat, the same large-grained, amber-colored grain we use today ground into flour for pasta.

At the same time, showing up in the Bronze Age in alpine southern Germany and Switzerland, was spelt, a natural mating of the same durum with the Egyptian pedigree and another early common wild European gra.s.s like weed. A pure European grain that never grew east of Iran, spelt is a bread wheat. That means it has lots of protein, or gluten. The French word for spelt, epeautre epeautre, means "sticky hull." Spelt, known as farro farro in northern Italy and in northern Italy and d.i.n.kel d.i.n.kel in Germany, Switzer land, and Austria, is the delicious wheat that was grown and eaten during the Middle Ages. Now an heirloom grain, farro may seem old-fashioned, but it is still grown in areas along the Rhine and Danube Rivers, and has found an escalating market with travelers from America who have visited these areas and had a taste. Farro is a softer wheat than regular wheat berries, so it cooks faster, needs less water, and is more digestible. Use it exactly like regular wheat berries. These same proportions can be used for another ancient wheat berry, kamut. in Germany, Switzer land, and Austria, is the delicious wheat that was grown and eaten during the Middle Ages. Now an heirloom grain, farro may seem old-fashioned, but it is still grown in areas along the Rhine and Danube Rivers, and has found an escalating market with travelers from America who have visited these areas and had a taste. Farro is a softer wheat than regular wheat berries, so it cooks faster, needs less water, and is more digestible. Use it exactly like regular wheat berries. These same proportions can be used for another ancient wheat berry, kamut.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 2 cups; serves 3 to 41 cup farro1 cups water1 tablespoon olive oilPinch of salt 1. Place the farro in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring constantly, until the grains pop and deepen in color, about 4 minutes.

2. Place the toasted farro and water in the rice cooker bowl and cover with the water; let soak in the machine for 1 hour. Add the oil and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the farro steam for 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This farro will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

farro with shiitakes The rich, meaty flavor and texture of fresh shiitake mushrooms is a great foil to the chewy whole-grain Italian spelt. Serve with roast chicken or beef dishes.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 3 to 42 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 large or 2 small shallots, finely chopped6 ounces (2 medium-large) fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps chopped1 cup farro1 cups waterPinch of saltFreshly ground black pepperSmall sprig fresh savory, marjoram, or oregano 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the b.u.t.ter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the shallots and stir to coat with the b.u.t.ter. Add the mushrooms and close the cover. Let the shallots and mushrooms cook, stirring occasionally, until completely soft, about 7 minutes.

2. Open the cover, add the farro, and stir to combine. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the farro smells toasty, about 3 minutes. Add the water, salt, pepper to taste, and herb sprig. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, remove the herb sprig and let the farro steam for 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This farro will hold on Keep Warm for 1 hour. Serve hot.

basic buckwheat groats Unroasted buckwheat groats, also called white buckwheat, have a much milder flavor than the roasted kasha. You can immediately tell them apart-the toasted groats (another name for kasha) are russet colored. Kasha is a very old and traditional cereal grain in the Russian hinterlands; the word kasha kasha can also mean "meal." The Russians feel about kasha the way the j.a.panese feel about rice. While normally coated with egg to keep the grains separate, this version is from natural foods writer Rebecca Wood and has no egg. Buck wheat is an acquired taste to the uninitiated. Use fresh groats; we mail-order them from Birkett Mills in New York. If you use the delicious j.a.panese heirloom miniature buckwheat called can also mean "meal." The Russians feel about kasha the way the j.a.panese feel about rice. While normally coated with egg to keep the grains separate, this version is from natural foods writer Rebecca Wood and has no egg. Buck wheat is an acquired taste to the uninitiated. Use fresh groats; we mail-order them from Birkett Mills in New York. If you use the delicious j.a.panese heirloom miniature buckwheat called soba gome soba gome, follow this recipe but reduce the liquid by cup and omit the sunflower seeds or nuts.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 21/ 2 cups; serves 3 to 41 cup unroasted white buckwheat groats2 cups water or chicken stock1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter or walnut oilPinch of salt, if unsalted sunflower seeds are used cup sh.e.l.led sunflower seeds or walnuts, toasted 1. Place the groats in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring constantly, until the color deepens a few shades, about 4 minutes. You can toast groats light or dark, to your own preference.

2. Place the groats in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water, b.u.t.ter, salt, if using, and sunflower seeds; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the groats steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the grains with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. These groats will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

kasha varnishkes This is a very basic recipe for an old Jewish favorite, the nutritious and nutty roasted buckwheat called kasha mixed with tiny egg pasta bows. Cooked conventionally, the pasta must be prepared separately. But the gentle action of the rice cooker allows the pasta to cook perfectly perched right on top of the kasha.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular/BrownRiceYIELD: Serves 6 to 83 large eggs1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 cups whole kasha (roasted buckwheat)2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 medium-size yellow onion, chopped4 cups water cup tiny egg pasta bows 1. Beat the eggs in a medium-size bowl with teaspoon of the salt and the pepper. Add the kasha and stir to coat with egg. Set aside at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes to air-dry.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular/Brown Rice cycle. Place the b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When melted, add the onion, stir to coat with the b.u.t.ter, and close the cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is completely soft, about 10 minutes.

3. Open the cover and add the kasha. Stir to combine and continue to cook, stirring a few times, until the kasha appears dry and smells toasty, about 5 minutes. Add the water and remaining teaspoon salt; stir to combine. Carefully sprinkle the pasta bows on top of the kasha, spreading them out as evenly as possible over the surface. Close the cover and reset for the regular/Brown Rice cycle or let the regular/Brown Rice cycle complete (or let it cook for about 30 minutes, until the kasha is puffed and tender and the pasta is cooked through).

4. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the kasha steam for 5 to 10 minutes. Stir gently with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon to combine the kasha and pasta. This dish will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

kasha varnishkes with mushrooms: Add 1 cup (or more) thinly sliced fresh mushrooms to cook along with the onion. Add 1 cup (or more) thinly sliced fresh mushrooms to cook along with the onion.