basic millet Millet has a fluffy texture, is very easy to digest, and has a very sweet, delicate, almost imperceptible nutty flavor. It can become bitter and sticky when steamed raw, so here it is first dry-toasted before steaming, turning a bright golden color. Food writer Elizabeth Schneider describes the flavor of millet as having "a hint of cashew and corn." Native to China, millet was being gathered around 7000 B.C. in j.a.pan. Reflecting the importance that millet has maintained over the centuries, there is a beautiful family crest design of a foxtail millet plant in a book of j.a.panese textile emblems that adorned battlefield identification banners and court kimonos in the Middle Ages. The Stone Age Lake Dwellers, in what is now Switzerland, had wild millet. It is still the grain of choice in Central Asia, Africa, and India, while virtually unknown as a cereal grain in America. As an alternative to rice, cook up some millet. Toss it with some chopped fresh cilantro or basil leaves right before serving.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 31/ 2 cups; serves 4 to 51 cup whole millet1 cups water or chicken stock1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter or margarinePinch of salt 1. Place the millet in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring constantly, until the color deepens a few shades and the grains pop, about 4 minutes. Immediately place the hot millet in a deep bowl, fill with cold water, and swirl with your fingers. Drain in a fine strainer.

2. Place the millet in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water, b.u.t.ter, and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the millet steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the grains with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This millet will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

basic quinoa In Quechua-the language of one of the main native Andean peoples and descendants of the Incas-the word quinoa quinoa, like so many other grains, poetically translates to "mother grain." Quinoa was a staple grain of equal importance to maize, and was considered a source of strength and endurance for working in the thin mountain air of the altiplano. After the Spanish conquest, quinoa crops were destroyed and the grain was virtually lost to the world until it appeared in the United States through the work of visionary horticulturalist Luther Burbank. The "forgotten cereal of the ancients," as he dubbed it, did not catch on as the food source he predicted. It is now imported from Bolivia by the Quinoa Corporation under the name Ancient Harvest Quinoa.

The grains are coated with a resiny natural pesticide and preservative compound, saponin, which is bitter and soapy flavored. The grain needs to be rinsed well before cooking. The seed is a round, flat disc with a very mild flavor that has a gentle tangy aftertaste. Quinoa turns translucent and fluffy when cooked. A hoop-like bran layer surrounds each grain, and it looks like a half-moon-shaped crescent or curly tail in the pot with the grain after cooking (a sure sign it is cooked enough). Quinoa is very light and extremely digestible, with a surprising crunch despite its tiny size. If left to rest after steaming on the Keep Warm cycle, the grains will swell a bit more. You can add tamari soy sauce, minced fresh herbs, garam masala, or c.u.min to the cooking water to vary the flavor. Try this exotic grain; we think you will be pleasantly surprised by how much you like it.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 3 cups; serves 4 to 61 cups imported quinoa2 cups water or chicken stock teaspoon salt 1. Place the quinoa in a deep bowl, fill with cold water, and rub between your fingers. Drain in a fine strainer. Rinse two or three times, until the foam disappears.

2. Place the quinoa in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/ Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the quinoa steam for 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This quinoa will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot or let cool to room temperature and chill.

orange dessert quinoa Quinoa is fantastic cooked in fruit juice. This recipe was adapted from the food writer who first brought quinoa to the attention of the grain-loving public 20 years ago, Rebecca Wood. This is good drizzled with a bit of organic heavy cream.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: Serves 4 to 61 cups imported quinoa2 cups orange juice or pa.s.sion fruit orange juice combination1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.terPinch of salt3 tablespoons chopped nuts, such as macadamia nuts, almonds, or pecans, toasted 1. Place the quinoa in a deep bowl, fill with cold water, and rub between your fingers. Drain in a fine strainer. Rinse two or three times, until the foam disappears.

2. Place the quinoa in the rice cooker bowl. Add the juice, brown sugar, b.u.t.ter, and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the quinoa steam for 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon and stir in the nuts. Serve immediately.

basic rye berries Rye has a characteristically bitter-strong, earthy-gra.s.sy flavor, usually with a pleasant sour aftertaste. Whole-grain rye berries are the whole kernels and are used in pilafs like rice or wheat berries, in salads, or for a breakfast cereal. Whole-grain rye is known for flourishing in cold countries with rocky, acid soil and, for that reason, rye has been a flour of choice for centuries in Scandinavia, Germany, Poland, and Russia; it is grown up to the Arctic Circle and mountain areas above 14,000 feet, which is highly unusual for a grain!

Because the grain is so soft and does not have a hull as tough as wheat, it is traditionally "parched" or roasted to bring out the best flavor. Food writer Bernard Clayton describes rye berries as having "a look like suntanned oatmeal" after cooking.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 3 cups; serves 41 cup rye berries2 cups hot water1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oilPinch of salt 1. Place the rye berries in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring constantly, until the grains pop and deepen in color, about 4 minutes.

2. Place the toasted rye berries and water in the rice cooker bowl; let soak in the machine for 1 hour. Add the oil and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rye berries steam for 15 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The rye berries will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

mary's rice and rye pilaf This recipe came from Beth's friend Mary Cantori, who is an inventive and intuitive cook. She never writes her recipes down, but luckily Beth did when Mary told her the details of this wonderful pilaf served with Thanksgiving turkey at Yosemite one year.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: Serves 61 cup rye berries2 tablespoons olive oil cup chopped yellow onion cup chopped celery cup coa.r.s.ely shredded carrot1 cups chicken stockPinch of salt cup chopped pitted prunes, preferably moist-pack1 cups cooked long-grain brown rice 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, for garnish 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, for garnish 1. Place the rye berries in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring constantly, until the grains pop and deepen in color, about 4 minutes.

2. Place the toasted rye berries and hot water to cover in the rice cooker bowl; let soak in the machine for 1 hour.

3. While the rye is soaking, heat the oil in a medium-size skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrot and cook, stirring, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.

4. Drain the rye berries and return them to the rice cooker bowl. Add the stock, salt, sauteed vegetables, and prunes; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

5. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cover and stir in the cooked rice. Close the cover and let the grains steam for 15 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Serve the pilaf immediately, sprinkled with the parsley.

basic wheat berries Wheat berries, whole-grain wheat with all its natural bran and germ intact, are well known to health-food enthusiasts and people who grind their own flour. Sadly, wheat berries are little known to many other well-versed cooks. We use so many wheat products, from whole wheat flour and commercial cereals to farina and bulgur, but wheat berries are still rarely used. But one taste of a simple wheat berry salad with orange zest and red onion in a plain Dijon vinaigrette, and you will be hooked. Wheat berries have a chewy texture and lovely sweet aroma and flavor. They are good in ca.s.seroles, in soups used like rice or barley, as part of a grain stuffing, in pilafs, and as the base for salads or even sprinkled over them. They make a natural pairing with rice. Wheat berries have the best aroma when they are cooking in the rice cooker; they fill the kitchen with a perfect grain-sweet scent. The berries really need the presoak to soften the outer layers.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 3 cups; serves 41 cup wheat berries2 cups waterPinch of salt 1. Place the wheat berries in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring constantly, until the grains pop and deepen in color, about 4 minutes. (This step is optional, but many cooks like this flavor a bit better than the untoasted grain.) 2. Place the wheat berries in the rice cooker bowl and cover with hot water; let soak in the machine for 1 hour. Drain the wheat berries and return them to the rice bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/ Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the wheat berries steam for 15 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The wheat berries will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

wheat berry and wild rice pilaf The combination of wheat berries and wild rice has been heartily embraced by the priests of spa cuisine. The inherent low calories and pure source of concentrated vitamins and minerals make the most delicious grain combinations. The wheat berries and wild rice both cook in the same amount of time. Serve with roasted meats.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: Serves 6 cup wheat berries cup wild rice2 cups chicken stock2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter cup chopped yellow onion pound fresh mushrooms, slicedPinch of salt1 tablespoon white Worcestershire sauce 1. Place the wheat berries and wild rice in the rice cooker bowl and add the stock.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil and b.u.t.ter together over medium-high heat.

Add the onion and mushrooms and cook, stirring, until very brown, about 15 minutes. Add the vegetables to the grains along with the salt and Worcestershire; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the pilaf steam for 10 to 15 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or a wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

basic bulgur cracked wheat Cracked wheat is the whole, raw wheat berry that has been broken into pieces, while bulgur cracked wheat is made from whole wheat berries that have been hulled, steamed, and kiln-dried before cracking. We have found that plain cracked wheat is virtually impossible to find, but bulgur cracked wheat, a favorite in the popular tabboule salad, is available in every supermarket. It is available in three grades, fine, medium, and coa.r.s.e (known as grade C), with the supermarket variety being medium unless otherwise labeled.

Since the wheat berries have already been steamed, the cooking process is considerably shorter than for raw grains. The box gives instructions for simply soaking with boiling water, but cooking in the rice cooker makes for an even better, more tender grain. The rice cooker will automatically take into account the slight variables in cooking times among the different grades, so cooking is no fuss, and what emerges is a wonderful alternative to rice. Plain cooked bulgur has one of the most appealing flavors of all grains but is rarely served as a side dish. We have changed all that with this simple recipe.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 2 cups; serves 3 to 41 cup bulgur cracked wheat1 cups waterPinch of salt1 tablespoon olive oil 1. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick vegetable spray. Place the bulgur cracked wheat in the rice bowl. Add the water, salt, and olive oil; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the bulgur steam for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This bulgur will hold on Keep Warm for 1 to 2 hours. Serve hot.

bulgur wheat pilaf Bulgur can be cooked using a number of techniques, as for a risotto, with plenty of liquid and, as for a pilaf, with the grain initially cooked in some fat before adding the cooking liquid. Be sure to use just plain old bulgur, not one of the seasoned pilaf mixes. You want to use a medium or coa.r.s.e grade for pilafs, and a coa.r.s.e grade for risottos.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular/BrownRiceYIELD: Serves 62 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter or chicken fat2 small white boiling onions, minced2 cups bulgur cracked wheat3 cups water or chicken stockPinch of salt, if needed 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook and/or regular/Brown Rice cycle. Place the b.u.t.ter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the onions and cook, stirring, until softened, 3 minutes. Add the bulgur and stir to coat and thoroughly heat the grains. Add the water and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular/ Brown Rice cycle or let the regular/Brown Rice cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the pilaf steam for 15 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

basic wild rice All wild rice, our native North American gra.s.s, is sold with the bran on the kernel (like brown rice) and this gives it its black appearance; the water it cooks in will always be dark because of the rich bran layer. In California today, wild rice is mechanically farmed and harvested and then parched (a type of parboiling), which gives it a strong flavor. Labels will usually tell you if the rice is hand-harvested or cultivated, but the color will tell you immediately how it was grown: hand-harvested rice is distinctly matte (as opposed to shiny) in a range of colors from a ruddy red-brown, deep chocolate, and tan to a subtle gray-green, and paddy rice is very shiny sable black. Since the outer bran coat is very tough, it is scratched, or scarified, so that water is more easily absorbed. The more scarifying, the lighter or more variegated the grain and, hence, the shorter the cooking time.

Wild rice is available in bulk grain bins and small boxes in a growing number of super markets, natural food stores, and gourmet food shops in a variety of grades. Select wild rice contains short and broken grains; it is good for puddings. Extra-fancy wild rice has uniform, medium-size grains about inch long graded equally in color and is the most commonly available wild rice. Giant wild rice (known as long-grain) has grains about an inch in length (or longer) and is considered the premium grade. The cooking times for these grades are different because of the size of the grains, but that is not a problem when cooked in the rice cooker. All the grades taste the same.

Each brand of wild rice has its own particular taste, so if you have experienced a brand that was too husky or bitter for your palate, experiment with others, or use it in combination with other rices for a milder taste. Wild rice has a smoky, rich, nutty flavor, much like a strong herbal, woodsy tea; the darker the rice, the stronger the flavor.

This method of cooking the rice in a bit more than twice its volume of liquid is known as the Ojibway method, after a tribe of Native Americans who use the grain as a staple in their diet. The grain will swell and split slightly down the side, and some will curl like a b.u.t.terfly. Do not rinse wild rice. While cooking, the liquid will look cloudy gray and sometimes have some foam. This is okay; it is part of the grain (the foam is the dusty by-product of the scarifying process). Wild rice is done when each kernel is swollen and cracked down the side. If a kernel has turned back, it has overcooked, although it is not unusual to have a percentage of these in every pot due to uneven cooking; we love the mixture of soft and chewier grains.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: About 3 cups; serves 4 cup wild rice2 cups water, stock, or a combination of stock and dry white wine teaspoon salt, or to taste 1. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/ Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cover and stir to dissipate the heat to prevent overcooking. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 15 to 20 minutes. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot, or cool to room temperature and chill.

wild rice with dried cherries and scallions The following three recipes feature wild rice and are designed to be served as side dishes. You can mix some cooked long-grain white or brown rice with the cooked wild rice to tone down the earthy flavor, if you so desire.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: Serves 4 to 61 cup wild rice2 cups chicken stock4 scallions, white parts and a few inches of the green parts, minced2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 cup dried tart cherries teaspoon seeded and minced fresh jalapeno chile (optional) 1. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the stock; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cover and stir to dissipate the heat to prevent overcooking. Scatter the onions, cilantro, cherries, and jalapeno, if using, over the top of the rice. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Stir with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon to combine the ingredients. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

wild rice and bulgur with leeks and toasted almonds Once we discovered the extra-delicious property of bulgur, it ended up being added to all sorts of grains. Here wild rice and bulgur are cooked together with leeks and almonds, a winning, very French, culinary mating.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular/BrownRiceYIELD: Serves 8 cup ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter5 small leeks, white parts only, washed well and thinly sliced1 cups wild rice3 cups chicken stock teaspoon salt cup bulgur cracked wheat1 cup boiling water cup slivered blanched almonds 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular/Brown Rice cycle. Place the b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When melted, add the leeks and cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the rice, stock, and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular/Brown Rice cycle or let the regular/Brown Rice cycle complete.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cover the bulgur with the boiling water. Let stand on the counter to soften while the rice is cooking.

3. Preheat the oven to 325F.

4. Place the almonds on a baking sheet and toast until just golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Re move from the sheet and set aside.

5. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, drain the bulgur, pressing to remove any excess liquid. Open the cover and stir in the almonds and bulgur, using a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Close the cover and let the grains steam for 15 minutes. This dish will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

wild rice with fennel and dried cranberries This recipe has the wild rice cooked in a combination of chicken stock and cranberry juice. A great addition to Thanksgiving dinner!

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Regular/Brown RiceYIELD: Serves 41 cup plus 2 tablespoons wild rice2 cups plus 2 tablespoons chicken stock cup reduced-sugar or unsweetened cranberry juice c.o.c.ktail or unsweetened cranberry juice3 tablespoons dried cranberries2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 shallot, chopped1 small bulb fennel, stalks and greens discarded, bulb chopped (about 1 cups)SaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the stock and cranberry juice; stir a few times to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, add the cranberries, close the cover, and let the rice steam for 15 minutes.

3. While the rice is steaming, melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium-size saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and fennel and cook, stirring, until tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. When the rice has finished steaming, stir the fennel mixture into the rice. Adjust the seasonings again and serve hot.

ABOUT COUSCOUSAlthough couscous is the national dish of northern African countries like Tunisia and Morocco, it is considered an ethnic grain in the United States. To food professionals, couscous is known as the grain with an ident.i.ty crisis; it is considered both a pasta and a grain, depending on the ingredients. Attributed to the nomadic Berbers, who have been eating couscous for over 2,000 years, the staple starch found its place in Moorish cuisine. It is traditionally served before the dessert course on a shallow serving platter with stewed meat and vegetables on top, extra meat or poultry broth, and harissa, the fiery Tunisian hot sauce, on the side.Couscous is made from semolina flour, the flour ground from durum wheat that is used to make premium Italian pastas, thus the a.s.sociation with pasta. If barley or millet flour and grits are used instead of the semolina, couscous instantly becomes a grain, but the semolina version is far more common.Couscous can be made by hand and is a specialty in cooking cla.s.ses in North African cuisine, such as the ones given by Paula Wolfert. She claims that making homemade couscous is easier than making pasta or even bread. Fine semolina flour is combined with coa.r.s.e semolina, water, salt, and olive oil in a shallow wooden or earthenware bowl until the water is absorbed and the mixture sticks together. Using your open fingers and palm, and rhythmically mixing in one direction only, the mixture is deftly "rolled" to form granules called the couscous "beads." The beads are pressed through three sieves of varying sizes to create the small, uniform bits of couscous. The smallest are s'ffa s'ffa and are very tiny indeed, but couscous comes in a variety of sizes. This fresh couscous is ready to be cooked. If the couscous is to be stored, it is oven- or sun-dried. and are very tiny indeed, but couscous comes in a variety of sizes. This fresh couscous is ready to be cooked. If the couscous is to be stored, it is oven- or sun-dried.Our commercial brands of couscous, usually a medium-size granule that has been pre-steamed and labeled "instant," are made by using the vats and chutes of modern production methods; it will swell during cooking to about twice its dry size.

polenta, grits, and HOMINY Italian Polenta Small-Portion Polenta French Polenta Gorgonzola Polenta Villa Floriani Grilled Polenta with Sausages Traditional Grits Fried Grits Creamy Old-Fashioned Grits Pumpkin Grits Shrimpand Grits Fresh Hominy Posole Nuevo Polenta, grits, and hominy have one thing in common: they are all products made from corn. All have the delicate sweet flavor that is distinctly "corny," but each is made quite differently.

Is there any home gardener who has not tried his or her hand at a few rows of corn? The familiar ta.s.sel coming out the top of the ear, tightly covered by the husk which protects the multiple kernels that are developing in rows on the inner cob-it is a vegetable as familiar as a child's nursery rhyme. This is known as field corn and the pleasure of corn on the cob is an American summer ritual. When this soft, juicy corn is allowed to mature and dry on the stalk, the sugar turns to starch. This is the corn that is made into myriad corn products, including polenta, grits, and hominy.

Corn is one of the oldest cultivated grains, and a New World plant that reached Europe and beyond only because of the Columbus maritime exploration teams. In 1496 Columbus brought the first corn plants from the Caribbean islands back to Spain. Within 200 years, Indian corn would take its place as one of the three most important cereals around the world, from Mexico to China.

The Italians were the first Europeans to plant cornfields, in Crete. Enough of the new grain was grown to supply the entire Mediterranean Basin. The Near East became a golden field of maize and it was referred to as Turkish corn. Wherever the Ottoman army traveled, they left behind this grain that had become a staple in their traveling outdoor army kitchens. Corn became commonplace from the Euphrates River valley and Africa to Hungary and the Balkans.

Remember that, with all these corn products, if they are stone-ground and contain the germ and bran, they are highly perishable. Store cornmeal in the freezer for 6 to 12 months. Degerminated meals can be kept in the cupboard, tightly covered, indefinitely.

POLENTA.

"Just as our greatest architectural surprise in Italy was to find St. Francis' first church was a log cabin (at a.s.sisi), so were we amazed to discover that the Italians do even more delicious and interesting things with cornmeal than you can find in the (American) deep south" was how an early edition of Joy of Cooking Joy of Cooking introduced its readers to polenta cornmeal mush. introduced its readers to polenta cornmeal mush.

In the 1600s, an Italian farmer was asked to cultivate some of the seed plants of this Turkish corn for Romanian royalty so they could cook it up into a porridge, one that was usually made from millet. The result was a bright yellow-orange variety of flint corn, with its hard sh.e.l.l that looks translucent like a piece of amber-still cultivated today in northern Italy specifically for polenta. It is a dish still made in neighboring Romania as mamaliga mamaliga and and puliszka puliszka in Hungary. While you can most certainly make polenta with a medium or coa.r.s.e grind of regular yellow cornmeal, it will not be authentic unless you get the strain of cornmeal specifically milled for polenta. in Hungary. While you can most certainly make polenta with a medium or coa.r.s.e grind of regular yellow cornmeal, it will not be authentic unless you get the strain of cornmeal specifically milled for polenta.

Polenta is a ground cornmeal that is degermed and it comes in a coa.r.s.e or fine grind, regular or instant (traditionalists scoff at this last, since it is cooked, then dehydrated, but many cooks swear it has its own place in the kitchen, such as for frying). Toss a fistful of coa.r.s.e cornmeal into boiling water, cook and stir with plenty of muscle for an hour, and you have polenta, a creamy gruel that can be eaten like oatmeal or poured out onto a plate in a thick layer, cooled, and cut into cubes to put into soup or pan-fried. It is a food that is so humble that it was once considered a staple peasant food with lower status than bread, but, of course, food so simple in the hands of a good cook ends up ingeniously versatile. While polenta today is usually made exclusively from corn, polenta is a regional dish that can be made from any number of grains-eastern Europe and Russia make their polenta mush from fine buckwheat groats; Polish cooks use farina; northern Italians also use millet.

Polenta has a long shelf life and can be kept in a canister in the cupboard, but keep it in the freezer if you buy it in bulk and plan to use it over a year. If you want authentic polenta, you must buy an imported brand, but there are also some domestic polentas available in natural food stores, so you can take your pick. It comes in yellow or white versions, with the yellow having the more robust flavor and the white, a specialty of Venice served in place of rice or pasta, more subtle and delicate. Our specialty grocery stocks a brand called Moretti, which comes in unique flavorful varieties: Lampo (instant), Taragna (with buckwheat meal or flour, a specialty of the Valtellina Valley in northern Italy), Friulana (from Italian white corn), and Integrale (with wheat germ), a testament to the many different ways the Italians can dress up cornmeal mush.

While authentic polenta has instructions for constantly stirring over low heat to prevent lumping, it can be made in the rice cooker with great success, without the laborious stirring. For the smoothest polenta, use the Porridge cycle. Polenta can be made in the on/off machine, but it is not as smooth, and you must not overload the cooker or it will boil over. On the regular cycle, you must stir two or three times during the cooking and stir thoroughly when the cycle completes. The closed environment of the rice cooker prevents a top crust from forming, but it does concentrate the flavor of the salt, so the amount of salt used is less than you would normally use if you were cooking polenta in an open saucepan. You can make your polenta soft (more water), to serve immediately out of the cooker in a mound with b.u.t.ter and cheese. Or you can make a stiffer (less water) polenta, to pour into a gla.s.s pan to cool, then turn out in a firm block and cut into pieces with a wet knife to grill or fry in a nonstick skillet with some olive oil as a side dish, or to be layered in a ca.s.serole like lasagne. Polenta works well with any sauce that is good on pasta-a light fresh tomato sauce or a rich ragu with meatb.a.l.l.s, or topped with a meat stew. Cut polenta with a small cookie cutter and bake it with a topping of Gorgonzola, another native foodstuff of Lombardy, and you have a nice, filling appetizer. Soft polenta can be made ahead and held on the Keep Warm cycle for hours. To simplify cleanup, fill the rice cooker bowl with cold water and soak for 10 minutes before washing.

italian polenta Italian polenta, the darling of all teachers of Italian cuisine, is labeled farina di granoturco farina di granoturco on the package, the Italian name of corn since the time of Columbus. It was often made in a traditional copper polenta pot, replete with a special wooden stirring stick, that was handed down within rural families. This is a really nice, fluffy polenta that is foolproof. It uses two full cycles of the Porridge cycle. It thickens considerably during the second cycle and even spits a few times during the cooking. You can double the recipe in a large 10-cup machine. Serve with the Parmesan and a pat of garlic b.u.t.ter for a lovely treat, or sprinkled with grated Fontina cheese. on the package, the Italian name of corn since the time of Columbus. It was often made in a traditional copper polenta pot, replete with a special wooden stirring stick, that was handed down within rural families. This is a really nice, fluffy polenta that is foolproof. It uses two full cycles of the Porridge cycle. It thickens considerably during the second cycle and even spits a few times during the cooking. You can double the recipe in a large 10-cup machine. Serve with the Parmesan and a pat of garlic b.u.t.ter for a lovely treat, or sprinkled with grated Fontina cheese.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic (preferred) or on/offCYCLE: Porridgeor regularYIELD: Serves 44 cups water1 cup coa.r.s.e-grain yellow polenta teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper cup ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, or more to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional) 1. Place the water in the rice cooker bowl. Add the polenta and salt; stir for 15 seconds with a wooden spoon or wooden or plastic rice paddle. Close the cover and set for the Porridge or regular cycle. A few times during the cooking, open the cover, stir for 15 seconds, then close the cover.

SMALL-PORTION POLENTA.

Sometimes you want just a little bit of hot polenta mush with b.u.t.ter and Parmesan or Asiago cheese to serve as a side dish. This is the perfect recipe.MACHINE: Small (4-cup) rice cooker ; fuzzy logic ( p referred) or on/offCYCLE: Porridge or regularYIELD: Serves 1 to 23 tablespoons coa.r.s.e-grain yellow polenta1 cup water teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper2 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1. Place the polenta, water, and salt in the rice cooker bowl; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge or regular cycle.2. At the end of the Porridge cycle, reset for a second Porridge cycle. At the end of the second Porridge cycle, or when the regular cycle completes, open the cover and add a couple of grinds of black pepper and the b.u.t.ter. Stir quickly, close the cover, and allow the polenta to rest at least until the b.u.t.ter melts. This polenta can be held on Keep Warm for up to 2 hours. Stir before serving.

2. At the end of the Porridge cycle, reset for a second Porridge cycle; the polenta needs two full cycles to lose its raw, grainy texture. At the end of the second Porridge cycle, or when the regular cycle completes, taste the polenta and make sure the desired consistency has been reached. Stir in the b.u.t.ter and cheese, if using (if you are chilling the polenta for frying or grilling, or using it under seafood, like grilled pesto prawns, the cheese is not necessary).

3. This polenta will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour, if necessary. Add a bit more hot water if it gets too stiff. Stir before serving.

french polenta The French also make cornmeal mush, which was originally brought to their country by the armies of the king of Spain in the Middle Ages. Made in all regions of france, the most famous polenta preparation is Savoy mush, and French polenta can sport toppings and additions like roasted game, stewed prunes, cheese, a variety of meat and vegetable sauces, meat pan juices, and truffles, and sometimes is an addition to soup.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large(10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic( p referred) or on/offCYCLE: Porridge or regularYIELD: Serves 62 cups coa.r.s.e-grain yellow polenta3 cups water3 cups chicken stock or milkSaltFreshly ground black pepperFreshly grated nutmeg6 ounces goat cheese, crumbled, for garnish 1. Place the polenta and water in the rice cooker bowl; stir for 15 seconds with a wooden spoon or wooden or plastic rice paddle. Add the stock and salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Close the cover and set for the Porridge or regular cycle. About every 20 minutes, open and stir for 15 seconds, then close the cooker.

2. At the end of the Porridge cycle, reset for a second Porridge cycle; the polenta needs two full cycles to lose its raw, grainy texture. At the end of the second Porridge cycle, or when the regular cycle completes, taste the polenta to make sure the desired consistency has been reached. This polenta will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

3. When ready to serve, spoon onto serving plates and sprinkle with the goat cheese.

gorgonzola polenta Gorgonzola and polenta are a culinary team like spaghetti and Parmesan cheese. They just go together; maybe it is because they are both native to the area around Milan. Use a young Gorgonzola, aged under six months, so it is creamy and mild. It will melt into the mush, giving it a sophisticated flavor. Serve as a side dish alongside roast meats. Some people like to top the hot polenta with a dab of pesto and some chopped cherry tomatoes seasoned with salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of olive oil.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic (preferred) or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular or PorridgeYIELD: Serves 6 cup ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter1 small white onion (you can use a boiling onion), finely chopped1 cup chicken stock1 cup milk cup coa.r.s.e-grain yellow polenta5 ounces Gorgonzola cheese cup heavy cream teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg2 teaspoons saltFreshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons shredded Parmesan cheese (optional), for garnish 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When melted, add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until soft, about 8 minutes. Add the stock, milk, and polenta; whisk to combine. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge or regular cycle. A few times during the cooking, open the cover and stir the polenta for 15 seconds, then close the cover.

2. Coat 6 cups of a standard m.u.f.fin tin with b.u.t.ter-flavored nonstick cooking spray or grease them with b.u.t.ter.

3. At the end of the second Porridge cycle, or when the regular cycle completes, stir in the cheese, cream, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper to taste. Using a plastic soup ladle, divide the polenta among the 6 m.u.f.fin cups, filling to the brim. Let come to room temperature. At this point, you can cover with plastic and refrigerate overnight.

4. Preheat the oven to 400 F. Brush a small earthenware roasting pan with olive oil.

5. Remove the polenta from the m.u.f.fin tin and place in the roasting pan (not touching each other). Sprinkle the Parmesan cheese on top, if using. Bake until hot, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately, using a metal spatula to remove the polenta from the pan.

villafloriani grilled polenta with sausages Beth's dear friend Rosmarie Finger worked for years on an estate called Villa Floriani in Portola Valley, California. Every summer there would be a charity celebrity tennis match on the grounds for the Peninsula Volunteers of Northern California, with a fantastic buffet luncheon for three hundred. Beth was lucky to be invited to a number of these functions and enjoyed the excellent food, prepared by a different chef each year. One year this dish was the main offering and it has become a favorite for summer entertaining. The original recipe is from Northwest food writer and chef Joan Deccio Wickham, who designed the menu that year. The recipe is immortalized in her Italian cookbook The Sporting Gourmet Cookbook The Sporting Gourmet Cookbook (The Sporting House, 1983). (The Sporting House, 1983).

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large(10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic( p referred) or on/offCYCLE: Porridge or regularYIELD: Serves 64 cups chicken stock1 cups coa.r.s.e-grain yellow polenta2 small yellow onions, chopped2 tablespoons fruity olive oil8 ounces Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, plus more for serving teaspoon ground white pepper6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into piecesTomato Coulis6 medium-size Italian sausages, grilled 1. Place 2 cups of the stock in the rice cooker bowl and add the polenta. Stir for 15 seconds with a wooden spoon or wooden or plastic rice paddle; set aside.

2. In a medium-size saute pan, combine the onions and olive oil. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring a few times, until the onions are transparent, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining 2 cups stock and bring to a boil. Slowly pour the stock mixture into the rice bowl and stir briefly.

3. Close the cover and set the rice cooker for the Porridge or regular cycle. A few times during the cooking, open the cover and stir for 15 seconds, then close the cover.

4. When the machines switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the regular cycle ends, taste the polenta to make sure the desired consistency has been reached. Add the cheese, pepper, and b.u.t.ter, stirring until well blended.

5. Coat two 9 x 5-inch loaf pans with olive oil. Pour the hot polenta into the pans, filling each about three-fourths full. If you are planning to serve the dish that evening, set aside, covered with plastic wrap, to firm up. Otherwise, cover and refrigerate the polenta overnight.

6. Prepare a grill. For an outdoor charcoal or wood chip fire: For an outdoor charcoal or wood chip fire: When the coals are covered with gray ash, throw a few herb sprigs (like rosemary, if you have some) on top of the coals for extra aroma while grilling. When the coals are covered with gray ash, throw a few herb sprigs (like rosemary, if you have some) on top of the coals for extra aroma while grilling. For a gas grill with two burners: For a gas grill with two burners: Preheat one burner on high, leaving the other side open for the sausages. Preheat one burner on high, leaving the other side open for the sausages. For a single-burner gas grill: For a single-burner gas grill:Preheat on high, then lower the flame while grilling the second side of the polenta. Spray the clean grill grate with an olive oil cooking spray and place it 4 inches above the fire.

7. Turn the polenta loaf out onto a cutting board and cut into 1-inch-thick slices. Place the slices on the grill and cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides. Serve with more grated Parmesan, a ladleful of the coulis, and the grilled sausages.

tomato coulis This is an excellent all-purpose tomato-herb sauce that is as good hot as it is cold. Use it as a topping for quiche, pizza, sauteed meats, or vegetables.

YIELD: 3 cups cup fruity olive oil cup chopped shallots2 to 3 cloves garlic, crushedOne 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, with their juices2 tablespoons dry white wine cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves10 fresh basil leaves, choppedPinch each each of fresh or dried thyme, oregano, and marjoram leaves of fresh or dried thyme, oregano, and marjoram leavesSaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. In a large saute pan, combine 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the shallots, and garlic. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring a few times, until the shallots are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine, and herbs. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, stirring a few times. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Pour the sauce into a jar and cover with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Let cool to room temperature. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for 2 days and in the freezer for up to 1 month.

GRITS.

If you have ever traveled in the southern United States, you know about grits. A puddle of hot grits, sometimes called hominy grits (even though they are not from ground hominy at all), is served in every cafe for breakfast with a pat of b.u.t.ter, syrup, or redeye gravy. Grits are just the coa.r.s.est grind of plain old cornmeal, ground from white or yellow corn that is grown in the South, then simmered in water or milk and ending up not quite as smooth as polenta. If the grits are stone-ground, there will be black bits of bran and germ speckled throughout, and they are mighty tasty. These may be labeled "old-fashioned" (see facing box facing box). When you prepare grits, first cover them with water and let the husks rise to the top, then drain and proceed with the recipe. If the grits are degerminated, they will be a uniform color, and come in instant and quick-cooking varieties, which are both chemically enriched. They have different cooking times, with the stone-ground taking by far the longest; the regular cycle handles this automatically when you vary the amount of liquid. Grits are a snap in the fuzzy logic rice cooker using the Porridge cycle. While grits normally need a proportion of 1 cup grits to 4 cups water to soften properly, the closed environment of the rice cooker prevents a lot of water evaporation, so the ratio drops slightly.