4. In the same pan, heat the 2 tablespoons ghee over medium-high heat. Using a slotted spoon, remove the lamb from the marinade and place in the skillet. Reserve the marinade. Cook the lamb, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is browned and almost dry, about 15 minutes.

5. While the lamb is cooking, make the rice. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl along with the cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, ghee, and rose water; stir to combine. Close the cover and set the rice cooker for the regular cycle. Cook until the rice is fragrant and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the water and salt, stir to combine, and let the cycle complete.

6. Warm the milk in the microwave or in a small saucepan on the stove. Add the saffron threads, stir to combine, and set aside.

7. Add the reserved marinade to the lamb in the skillet; stir to combine. Season with the teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. When the marinade comes to a boil, cover the skillet and cook over the lowest heat possible until the lamb is tender and the marinade has almost cooked away, checking the liquid level occasionally, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat if the mixture appears to be in danger of burning.

8. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 to 15 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Scoop out about half of the rice into a medium-size bowl. Smooth the rice remaining in the rice cooker into an even layer. Sprinkle about half of the saffron milk over the rice in the rice cooker. Layer the lamb on top of the rice, arranging it in a smooth layer. Layer the onion filling on top of the lamb. (If desired, reserve a small amount of the onion mixture for garnish.) Top with the remaining rice, smoothing it with a rice paddle or wooden spoon. Sprinkle the rice with the remaining saffron milk. Close the cover and continue to steam on the Keep Warm cycle for 30 to 45 minutes.

9. Serve the biryani biryani immediately. It can be served directly from the rice cooker bowl, or for a more elegant presentation, invert the rice cooker bowl onto a large platter with raised sides. Carefully remove the bowl and garnish, if desired, with the reserved onion filling. immediately. It can be served directly from the rice cooker bowl, or for a more elegant presentation, invert the rice cooker bowl onto a large platter with raised sides. Carefully remove the bowl and garnish, if desired, with the reserved onion filling.

zucchini and mungdal This is a small-batch, very traditional dal recipe (double or triple the recipe, if necessary, and use a 10-cup rice cooker) using split mung, also known as yellow dal, known for being the most digestible of all the beans . While Indian food has a reputation for being hot because of the spices, dishes can be quite delicately flavored as well. This mild dal would be the Indian equivalent of chicken soup, as it has healing, nurturing qualities.

The important technique to master is initially heating the spices in oil. Leave the rice cooker cover open and listen until you hear the seeds start to pop or jump up in the bowl. You must immediately add the rest of the ingredients to stop the spices from overcooking or browning. If this does happen, just turn off the cooker, wipe out the oil and spices, discard, and start over, rather than ruin the flavor of an entire pot of soup. Buy black mustard seeds at a natural food store or Indian grocery; you will need them for both the dal and the rice. Asafoetida is available at Indian markets. Serve with whole wheat chapatis or tortilla flatbread, heated on a griddle, and a green salad.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or RegularYIELD: Serves 41 cups split mung dal1 tablespoons sunflower or sesame oil or ghee (clarified b.u.t.ter;) teaspoon black mustard seeds teaspoon turmeric teaspoon mild curry powder teaspoon asafoetida (optional)1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger green chile pepper, seeded and minced, or 2 heaping tablespoons hot salsaJuice of 1 large fresh lime (at least 2 tablespoons)4 cups water1 teaspoon fine sea salt, or more to taste teaspoon ground coriander2 cups zucchini cut into 1/2-inch cubes1 recipe Simple Indian Rice Freshly ground black pepper Freshly ground black pepper1 cups cold yogurt or sour cream, plain or with 1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger stirred in, for serving (optional) 1. Place the dal in a deep bowl, cover with cold water, and soak for 2 hours at room temperature. Drain well.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the oil in the rice bowl. When hot, add the mustard seeds. With the cover open, cook until the seeds just begin to pop, no longer. Immediately add the turmeric, curry powder, asafoetida (if using), ginger, chile, lime juice, drained dal, and water (take care, in case of splattering). Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let cook for 45 minutes, until the dal is soft.

3. Add the salt, coriander, and zucchini. Adjust the consistency with some more water if you want a thin dal. Close the cover and cook for 15 minutes longer.

4. To serve, spoon the Simple Indian Rice into bowls and sprinkle with some black pepper to taste, then top with the dal and cold plain or ginger yogurt, if desired. Dal can be made the day ahead and reheated.

CLICK TO SEE WHAT IS DAL ?.

simple indian rice MACHINE: Medium (6 cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 42 teaspoons sunflower or sesame oil teaspoon black mustard seeds teaspoon c.u.min seeds1 cup white basmati rice1 cups water1 teaspoon fresh lime juice teaspoon fine sea saltFreshly ground black pepper 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the oil in the rice bowl. When hot, add the mustard and c.u.min seeds. With the cover open, cook until the seeds just begin to pop, no longer. Immediately add the rice, water, lime juice, and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon, and add pepper to taste. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 2 hours.

rice cooker paella You will need a large (10-cup) rice cooker to prepare paella for 8; halve the recipe for medium (6-cup) machines. Don't be tempted to make this without the saffron; it is essential. You can order it (rather) reasonably from Penzeys, the spice merchants. This paella, born in Julie's kitchen, is a great dish for entertaining.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 8 cup extra virgin olive oil2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of fat and cut into -inch pieces1 medium-size onion, chopped2 cloves garlic, peeled1 medium-size red bell pepper, seeded and cut into strips, the strips halved crosswise1 cup seeded and chopped fresh tomatoes2 ounces fully cooked smoked garlicky sausage (Spanish chorizo is traditional), sliced inch thick4 calamari (squid), cleaned, bodies cut into -inch-wide rings, and each set of tentacles halved (about cup total)3 cups Arborio, Valencia, or other medium-grain white rice (not j.a.panese style)5 cups water2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon saffron threads1 cup fresh green beans, ends trimmed, cut into 11/2-inch lengths cup small scallops8 medium-size or large shrimp, sh.e.l.led (tails left on) and deveined cup frozen peas8 small clams, washed in cold water to remove sand 1. In a small nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the chicken and cook, stirring, until just cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil to the rice bowl. When hot, add the onion. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, bell pepper, and tomatoes, stir to combine, and close the cover. Cook, stirring a few times, until the tomatoes break down and the bell pepper softens, about 10 minutes. Add the sausage, calamari, rice, chicken, water, salt, and black pepper; stir to combine. A pinch at a time, crumble the saffron threads into the rice bowl. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete. When the liquid boils (open the cooker occasionally to check, if yours doesn't have a gla.s.s lid), add the green beans, stir quickly to combine, and close again.

CLICK TO SEE PAELLA.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, be ready to act quickly. Open the cover, toss in the scallops, and quickly stir them into the rice mixture. Place the shrimp around the border of the rice bowl, pressing them partway into the rice, so that their tails stick up. Sprinkle the peas over the entire surface of the rice. Nestle the clams about halfway into the rice, hinged sides down. Close the cover and let the paella steam until the clams open and the shrimp turn pink, about 15 minutes. Serve the paella immediately.

note: If the clams do not open, perhaps there is not enough heat remaining in the rice cooker. Take them out and put them in a medium-size saucepan with about 1 inch of water. Cover the pot and bring the water to a boil. The clams should open in a few minutes. Throw out any that do not. If the clams do not open, perhaps there is not enough heat remaining in the rice cooker. Take them out and put them in a medium-size saucepan with about 1 inch of water. Cover the pot and bring the water to a boil. The clams should open in a few minutes. Throw out any that do not.

vegetable paella Here is an unorthodox, vegetarian, and much simplified version of the elaborate Spanish paella. It is an excellent side dish or vegetarian entree.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 4 cup olive oil1 small dried red chile, broken cup diced onion medium-size red bell pepper, halved, seeded, and sliced medium-size red bell pepper, halved, seeded, and sliced medium-size green bell pepper, halved, seeded, and sliced2 cloves garlic, minced1 teaspoon fresh oregano leaves, crushed between your fingers1 teaspoon sweet or hot paprika1 medium-size zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch cubes2 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coa.r.s.ely chopped1 cups Arborio, Valencia, or other medium-grain white rice (not j.a.panese style)1 cups vegetable or chicken stockFew saffron threads, crushed1 teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper cup fresh or frozen pet.i.te peas 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the oil in the rice bowl. When hot, add the chile, onion, and bell peppers. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, paprika, zucchini, and tomatoes. Close the cover and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the rice, stock, and saffron. Add the salt and black pepper to taste; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, scatter the peas on top of the rice mixture. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This paella will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

arroz con pollo There is no best recipe for arroz con pollo arroz con pollo, or chicken with rice. Some feature yellow-tinted rice, some red, and, in some versions, the rice is not colored at all. Some are spicy with hot chiles; others are mild. Green olives and capers make their piquant appearance in many versions, especially those from Cuba or Puerto Rico. Some cooks use long-grain rice; others choose regular medium-grain or a risotto-type rice. Wine and beer are popular flavorings. Some versions of this dish are quite rich, with chicken skin, plenty of oil, and even bits of ham added. Ours is a deep yellowish red, accented with red bell pepper bits and bright green peas. Because we use skinless chicken and are careful with the oil, it's relatively low in fat. The spicing is warm, not hot. We chose long-grain rice for its texture.

The yellow color comes not from saffron but achiote paste (pasta de achiote in Spanish). This is sold in a small brick form and is made from annatto seeds, which contribute a deep yellow color, as well as other spices. Achiote paste is available in Latin markets. The blocks we found were 3.5 ounces; we use about a quarter of one for this recipe. You cut or break off as much achiote paste as you need, then wrap the rest up airtight. If you can't find achiote paste, you can try to find Bijol, a yellow coloring and seasoning that comes in a small red shaker. It contains annatto as well as food coloring. You don't need much Bijol, maybe teaspoon; add it when you add the liquid. If you are lucky enough to encounter annatto seeds themselves (try an Indian market if your local Latin market doesn't carry them), you can make a brilliant yellow annatto oil by frying the seeds in a bit of vegetable or olive oil, then straining out the seeds. Use the oil to make the dish, and your rice will turn a lovely color without the use of artificial colorings. Or simply color the rice with turmeric, adding 1 teaspoon along with the liquid. in Spanish). This is sold in a small brick form and is made from annatto seeds, which contribute a deep yellow color, as well as other spices. Achiote paste is available in Latin markets. The blocks we found were 3.5 ounces; we use about a quarter of one for this recipe. You cut or break off as much achiote paste as you need, then wrap the rest up airtight. If you can't find achiote paste, you can try to find Bijol, a yellow coloring and seasoning that comes in a small red shaker. It contains annatto as well as food coloring. You don't need much Bijol, maybe teaspoon; add it when you add the liquid. If you are lucky enough to encounter annatto seeds themselves (try an Indian market if your local Latin market doesn't carry them), you can make a brilliant yellow annatto oil by frying the seeds in a bit of vegetable or olive oil, then straining out the seeds. Use the oil to make the dish, and your rice will turn a lovely color without the use of artificial colorings. Or simply color the rice with turmeric, adding 1 teaspoon along with the liquid.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 44 skinless, boneless chicken thighs, trimmed of fatJuice of 1 large or 2 small limes Salt Freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil1 medium-size onion, chopped3 cloves garlic, minced2 medium-size red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch square pieces2 cups long-grain white rice teaspoon ground c.u.min1 cup lukewarm water, plus more water as neededAbout 1 tablespoon achiote paste (use less, 1 to 2 teaspoons, if you don't want a warmly spicy dish) cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 cup seeded and chopped fresh tomatoes (or use canned, reserving their juices)One 12-ounce bottle medium- or light-bodied beer1 cup frozen peas 1. Cut each chicken thigh in two. Place the chicken pieces on a plate and season them with half the lime juice and salt and pepper to taste. Let the chicken marinate for about 15 minutes.

2. In a heavy medium-size nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over high heat. When hot, brown the chicken pieces on both sides until golden, about 5 minutes per side. As they are browned, transfer them to a clean plate and set aside.

3. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the rice cooker bowl. When hot, add the onion and garlic and stir to combine. Cook until the onion begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Do not allow the garlic to burn. Add the bell peppers; stir to combine. Add the rice and c.u.min; stir to combine and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is opaque, about 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, put the water in a 2-cup gla.s.s measuring cup. Add the remaining lime juice and the achiote paste, breaking up the achiote paste with your fingers as you add it (it can stain fabric, so take care). Stir to dissolve the achiote.

5. Add the cilantro and tomatoes to the rice cooker, along with 1 teaspoon salt and teaspoon black pepper. Add the beer and achiote water. You'll need about 3.4 cup additional liquid. If you have reserved tomato juices from the canned tomatoes, measure it, adding water to reach the 3.4-cup level. If not, add an additional 3.4 cup water. Stir well to combine the ingredients. Add the chicken, along with any juices that have acc.u.mulated on the plate. Push the chicken pieces down into the rice. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

6. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, quickly open the cover and sprinkle the peas on top. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 10 to 15 minutes. Gently fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon and stir to incorporate the peas. Serve immediately.

THE BASICS : PILAFIN THE RICE COOKERYou can saute the rice right in the cooker bowl before adding the liquid. It will then finish cooking on the regular cycle just like plain rice.1. Place the b.u.t.ter, in pieces, or oil in the rice cooker bowl. Set the bowl into the machine body. Plug it in.2. Press the On switch to cook or set for the regular cycle. If your machine has a soaking period built in, use the Quick Cook cycle. b.u.t.ter will melt in about 5 minutes or, if using oil, let it heat up for 5 minutes. Leave the cover open or closed while you are doing this.3. Add the measured amount of rice to the hot b.u.t.ter or oil and stir with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Leave uncovered or cover, as you wish. Some on/off cookers won't heat without the cover on. The rice will gradually heat up and gently sizzle, releasing its natural fragrance. Stir occasionally. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes. You can saute the rice for a short time, just until warm, or until it turns golden, according to your personal preference. Sauteeing the rice in the cooker like this will always take a bit longer than if you were doing it on the stovetop, but you won't have an extra pan to wash.4. Add the liquid, salt, and any other ingredients as specified in the recipe. Close the cover and complete the cooking cycle. (If you used the Quick Cook cycle to saute the rice, reset for the regular cycle.)5. Let the cooked rice steam for 10 to 15 minutes on the Keep Warm cycle before serving. If the rice is too moist, leave it on the Keep Warm cycle longer, or reset for the regular cycle, set a timer for 10 minutes, and continue to steam until the desired consistency is achieved. Turn off the machine or unplug it to stop cooking.GARAM MASALA The blending of spices, as opposed to using a solitary herb or spice, is characteristic of Indian cuisine. A garam masala, or melange of "hot spices," is the essence of this custom and it is said that one must be a good The blending of spices, as opposed to using a solitary herb or spice, is characteristic of Indian cuisine. A garam masala, or melange of "hot spices," is the essence of this custom and it is said that one must be a good masalchi masalchi, a fearless blender of spices, before one can become a good Indian chef. The art of the blending involves grinding or pounding (in a mortar and pestle) a combination of roasted or sun-dried spices.There are almost as many formulas for this Indian spice blend as there are families in India. Some are chile hot, others more aromatic. The proportions even change with the seasons. You can buy garam masala in jars or boxes, but if you make it yourself, it will be fresher and more fragrant. Beth used to work at India Joze, a restaurant in Santa Cruz that specialized in cooking from all sorts of cuisines. Every day the backup chefs, who all had their own coffee grinders just for spices by their cooking stations, prepared their garam masala spice blends right before making a particular dish. You could hear the whir of the grinders as they cooked!Green cardamom pods are easily found at an Indian market or any store that sells spices in bulk, as so many natural food stores do. Nutmegs are easier to split than they appear. Just place one on a cutting board and rap it with the bottom of a heavy skillet, or split it with a sharp, heavy knife or cleaver, keeping your fingers well out of the way.Here is a mild aromatic formula we like; adjust the proportions to suit yourself.YIELD: About 2 tablespoons1 tablespoon green cardamom podsOne 2-inch cinnamon stick1 teaspoon c.u.min seeds teaspoon black peppercorns10 cloves1 teaspoon coriander seedsAbout of a whole nutmeg1. Remove the seeds from the cardamom pods. You can gently smash the pods against a cutting board with the bottom of a drinking gla.s.s or use a rolling pin to crush them on a sheet of waxed paper. Then pick out and discard the outer pods, reserving the small, round seeds. Place the cardamom seeds and the rest of the spices in a small, dry skillet.2. Place the skillet over medium heat and toast the spices until they are fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Shake the skillet periodically or stir with a wooden spoon, so the spices don't burn. Transfer the toasted spices to a small plate to cool. (If they remain in the hot skillet, even off the heat, they are liable to burn.)3. When the spices are cool, grind them to a powder in a blender or a clean coffee grinder. You can store the garam masala in a tightly capped gla.s.s jar, but it is best fresh.ABOUT GHEEGhee is clarified b.u.t.ter, a fat used extensively in Indian cookery and known for its especially delicious flavor. It is cooked long enough for the milk solids to separate from the melted b.u.t.ter; it develops a deliciously nutty aroma and a beautiful golden hue. Ghee contains no oxidized cholesterol or hydrogenated fat, so it is good for special diets, and it has a very high smoking point (unlike plain b.u.t.ter, the solids of which burn quickly), so it is good for cooking. Ghee keeps well (it can be kept at room temperature but lasts for weeks in the refrigerator), so you might want to make a larger amount so you'll have it on hand.To make enough ghee for this recipe, cut cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter into quarters. Heat slowly in a small, heavy saucepan set on the lowest heat; do not stir. Allow the b.u.t.ter to simmer gently for about 20 minutes. (If you are making a larger amount, it will take longer.) It will smell nutty and the milk solids, which will settle on the bottom of the pan, will start to turn golden brown. The transparent b.u.t.ter will float on the top; this is the ghee (known as desi ghee desi ghee in India). Strain the b.u.t.ter through a tea strainer or cheesecloth into another container without disturbing the sediment. Store ghee in a covered container in the refrigerator; it will solidify. in India). Strain the b.u.t.ter through a tea strainer or cheesecloth into another container without disturbing the sediment. Store ghee in a covered container in the refrigerator; it will solidify.WHAT IS DAL ?Dal, or dahl dahl, are dried peas and beans that have been part of the Indian cuisine since ancient times. Dals are available whole, split, or ground into flour, and to find a good a.s.sortment of them you must shop at an Indian grocery. Not only is dal the name of the dried bean, it is what the cooked dish is called as well. While Americans are familiar with split pea soup or lentil soup, the repertoire of dals is staggering: thick or thin soups, sauces, stews, pancakes, even desserts. Our favorite dals are soups, Zucchini and Mung Dal (opposite) and Yellow Split Pea Soup with Fresh Lemon included here.Dal soups are seasoned with ginger, to aid digestion, and a fried spice blend known as chaunk chaunk, enhancing the flavor considerably. Some dals are prepared with garlic or onions, but traditional dals do not contain these, or any member of the onion family, in the manner of the ancient Hindu culinary laws that have been practiced for 5,000 years.The most popular dal for soup is the diminutive pale green or yellow mung or moong moong dal, whole or split without skins. Green or yellow split peas ( dal, whole or split without skins. Green or yellow split peas (matar dal ), golden lentils ( ), golden lentils (toovar dal ), or ), or urad dal urad dal, also known as black gram, can be subst.i.tuted, but will taste slightly different and have a different texture and color. Dals are traditionally served with fresh white Indian rices.Dal should be rinsed with cold water and sorted before soaking. We always make simple dals with split dals; they take less time to cook. While split mung dal generally takes about an hour to cook, remember that the hardness or softness of the water and the age of the dal affect cooking times, so don't worry if you need to cook your dal an extra 15 to 30 minutes.PAELLAPaella is Spain's grandest and best-known rice dish, and variations of it turn up today in the places that were once part of the Spanish empire-the yellow-hued arroz con pollo arroz con pollo of Puerto Rico, Cuba, and Mexico; yellow rice, chicken, and seafood in the Philippines; the of Puerto Rico, Cuba, and Mexico; yellow rice, chicken, and seafood in the Philippines; the arroz amarillo arroz amarillo (yellow rice) of Mexico's Yucatan. All of these share a family tree with paella. (yellow rice) of Mexico's Yucatan. All of these share a family tree with paella.What is a "true" paella? To a cook in Valencia, where paella was invented, it would be a dish of short-grain rice colored yellow with saffron and flavored with meat or seafood, but not both. (Snails-land snails-are one traditional element of the meat rendition.) This is charmingly ill.u.s.trated in the cla.s.sic Time-Life cookbook The Cooking of Spain and Portugal The Cooking of Spain and Portugal with a series of photos showing a family picnicking in a park in Valencia: a.s.sembling their rabbit paella on the spot, cooking it over an open fire, and, in the last frame, consuming it. The grand mixed paella, frequently including chicken, sausage, and several kinds of seafood, found in Barcelona and elsewhere in Catalonia, is the version that was exported to the United States. with a series of photos showing a family picnicking in a park in Valencia: a.s.sembling their rabbit paella on the spot, cooking it over an open fire, and, in the last frame, consuming it. The grand mixed paella, frequently including chicken, sausage, and several kinds of seafood, found in Barcelona and elsewhere in Catalonia, is the version that was exported to the United States.Of course, it's a kind of heresy to cook paella in the rice cooker. Paella has its own special pan, which resembles a very shallow, flat-bottomed wok. Paella is cooked over an open fire, or on the stove, but certainly not in a deep pot in an electric appliance! So, we cheerfully admit that our paella is not the real thing. But it looks gorgeous and tastes terrific, and that's enough for us.

RISOTTO.

Risotto Milanese b.u.t.ter nut Squash Risotto Dried Mushroom Risotto Asparagus and Mushroom Risotto Prawn Risotto with Seasonal Vegetables Italian Sausage Risotto Risi e Bisi Boiled Italian Rice Risotto is part of the triumvirate of soul-satisfying Italian starches, along with polenta and pasta. It is described in literature as "gilded grains of gold," in reference to risotto alla milanese, where the cooked rice is bathed in a pale golden sheen of saffron. It is traditionally exclusively a first course dish, a primi piatti primi piatti, not an accompaniment like American rice, except when paired with os...o...b..cco. Risotto is a unique type of rice dish with its very own consistency, which is likened to a sauce. Pearl-colored Arborio, the most well-known Italian rice for risotto, has a lot of surface starch, so the rice becomes creamy during cooking, almost like a savory rice pudding. Think of it cooking like pasta: tender on the outside and a hint of resistance on the inside. The center remains al dente al dente, a very different culinary experience if you have never had it before; you might think your rice is not quite cooked.

Arborio medium-grain j.a.ponica j.a.ponica rice was planted in the Po River valley around Lombardy (its capital is Milan) and Pied mont during the thirteenth century by the Sforza brothers, Visconti dukes of Milan, with seeds from the Benedictine rice crops flourishing at Monteca.s.sino. For years it was exported in little canvas sacks, but small plastic bags are now the norm. The top quality rice will be labeled rice was planted in the Po River valley around Lombardy (its capital is Milan) and Pied mont during the thirteenth century by the Sforza brothers, Visconti dukes of Milan, with seeds from the Benedictine rice crops flourishing at Monteca.s.sino. For years it was exported in little canvas sacks, but small plastic bags are now the norm. The top quality rice will be labeled Arborio fino Arborio fino or or super fino super fino, a sign that the kernel is the biggest, a standard established in 1931. Lesser grades are labeled fino fino, semifino semifino, and commune commune, and are fine to use in soups. A 500-gram bag, a little over a pound, yields about two cups of raw rice.

If you love risotto, you will be pleasantly surprised that there is an entire little family of regionally grown Italian medium-grain rices that include Carnaroli and Vialone nano along with the Arborio. Carnaroli is grown alongside Arborio in Piedmont and Lombardy, those regions having the largest ca.n.a.l-irrigated rice paddies in all of present-day Italy. The newest hybrid of Italian Carnaroli is just starting to be exported from Argentina (where the Italians planted it early in the twentieth century to cater to the tastes of the Italian immigrants to South America) and is considered equal, even superior, to Arborio. In Venice and Verona, Vialone nano (the rice of choice grown outside Venice and Mantova since the 1600s) is cooked until all'onde all'onde, or "wavy," which is a bit looser texture than the other risotto recipes.

"There is not a huge difference between the texture and mouthfeel of the three Italian medium-grain rices," says Mediter ranean food expert and writer Joyce Goldstein. "They behave and taste the same. You can use the rices interchangeably in risotto recipes. The big difference is the region in which they are grown and the length of the grain. There is even a fourth risotto rice, a miniature, called Baldo." Vialone nano is an impressive offering by chefs, but Arborio is easily available. Try all three and make your decision about which one you like the best.

American rice growers are onto developing their own strains of Arborio, the seed stock of which is available from the Rice Research Station seed bank at Biggs, California. Lundberg rice of California has a domestic California Arborio on the market that they have been developing for 10 years. RiceSelect has Texas Arborio (called risotto rice), and there is another domestic called CalRiso. All can be subst.i.tuted cup for cup for their imported Italian cousins, making lovely, less expensive risottos, although gourmets insist the Italian rices make the most authentic risottos. Similar grains such as quinoa, quick-cooking barley, millet, and bulgur, which cook in a similar manner as rice, can all be subst.i.tuted for the rice in a risotto.

Risotto is known as a time-consuming rice dish to make because you need to stir it constantly and add the boiling stock in small portions for about half an hour. It is deliberately overcooked and braised uncovered. In the fancy fuzzy logic cooker, you can make really fabulous risotto on the Porridge cycle, which allows it to be braised at a gentle, steady low boil/high simmer. If all you have is the basic kind of rice cooker, you can make a risotto that is almost as good, but you'll have to watch the time closely, and the consistency will not be quite as sublime. It is a great dish for everyday eating and, once you find out how easy it is to make, you will perhaps make it as often as regular pilaf or plain steamed rice.

To make risotto, use a light stock, like chicken, duck, or veal (The Basics: Homemade Stocks), and about three to four times the volume of the rice. You don't have to fuss about the exact amount. You may use less liquid than for stovetop risottos because there is less evaporation with the cover closed. You just add all the stock at once (with no preheating of the stock) and only stir a few times. b.u.t.ter is the traditional cooking fat for sauteing the onion, but these days a bit of olive oil is added, and maybe some pancetta. The bit of b.u.t.ter at the end of cooking is also traditional, but optional.

We found that risotto made with 1 cup of rice cooks in about 20 to 25 minutes in an on/off rice cooker. Note that you will have to set a timer if you are using an on/off cooker. The Porridge cycle on the fuzzy logic machines will time automatically. To serve six to eight people as a first course or three to four as a luncheon main dish, do not use more than 2 cups rice in the medium (6-cup) or large (10-cup) rice cookers, as it is just hard to work with. If you need more risotto, it is best to use two rice cookers at the same time.

Risotto is best served immediately (it thickens dramatically as it stands at room temperature), but in a pinch, it will hold on the Keep Warm cycle for up to an hour. When serving, a warm shallow soup bowl is nice, and a soup spoon, but correct etiquette calls for a fork. Of course, the Italians are sticklers for the right cheese: Parmigiano-Reggiano. Buy imported, even just a little bit, if you can. You can use Pecorino Romano sheep's milk cheese, even Asiago, in place of the Parmesan (it is quite a bit stronger), or a combination of two, if you like.

CLICK TO SEE THE BASICS: RISOTTO IN THE RICE COOKER.

risotto milanese Risotto Milanese, or risotto with saffron, is the national dish of the Lombardy region of Italy. It has been made there since the late eighteenth century as a special first course washed down with red wine. Use saffron threads here, as powdered saffron is really a lot more potent; you want a faint saffron flavor, not overpowering. It is traditionally served as a starchy side dish to os...o...b..cco (braised veal shanks) and carbonata carbonata (Milanese beef stew). (Milanese beef stew).

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular or PorridgeYIELD: Serves 4 to 53 cups chicken stock, or one 14.5-ounce can chicken broth plus water to equal 3 cupsPinch of saffron threads1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter cup finely chopped yellow onion cup dry white wine1 cup plus 2 tablespoons medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano)TO FINISH1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for servingSalt 1. In a small saucepan or using the micro wave, heat 1 cup of the stock and crush the saffron into it; let stand for 15 minutes.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the onion. Cook, stirring a few times until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook for 1 minute. Add the rice and stir occasionally until the grains are transparent except for a white spot on each, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the saffron stock and remaining chicken stock. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge cycle, or for the regular cycle and set a timer for 20 minutes.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, stir the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The risotto should be only a bit liquid and the rice should be al dente al dente, tender with just a touch of tooth resistance. If needed, cook for a few minutes longer. This risotto will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

4. When ready to serve, add the b.u.t.ter. Close the cover for a minute to let the b.u.t.ter melt. Stir in the cheese and salt to taste. Serve immediately.

b.u.t.ter nuts quash risotto This risotto is heavier on the vegetables (the winter squash and the onion) than is traditional, but it is a favorite autumn and winter variation. Use less squash if you like, but we feel the extra contributes a lovely flavor and color along with a nutritional boost. We also use half stock and half water in order not to overwhelm the delicate squash flavor. You can add some diced zucchini as well; it is a good flavor combination. We like the unconventional addition of lime juice; it brightens the flavor of the squash.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/off CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular or Porridge YIELD: Serves 4 to 5 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup finely chopped yellow onion 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) 1 to 2 cups peeled and seeded b.u.t.ternut squash cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 cups water 1 cups chicken, veal, or vegetable stock TO FINISH.

2 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice cup minced fresh Italian parsley leaves cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving Salt 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the onion. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon to coat the grains with the hot b.u.t.ter. Cook, stirring a few times, until the grains of rice are transparent except for a white spot on each, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the squash, water, and stock; stir to combine. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge cycle, or for the regular cycle and set a timer for 20 minutes.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, stir the risotto. It should be only a bit liquid, and the rice should be al dente al dente, tender with just a touch of tooth resistance. If needed, cook for a few minutes longer. This risotto will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

3. When ready to serve, add the b.u.t.ter. Close the cover for a minute to let the b.u.t.ter melt. Stir in the lime juice, parsley, cheese, and salt to taste. Serve immediately.

dried mushroom risotto The Italians have a great love for dried mushrooms and, to our advantage, most supermarkets are catching on and offering this once gourmet treasure of flavor. If you like cream of mushroom soup, you will love this risotto, known as risotto con funghi secchi risotto con funghi secchi. Choose porcini, the Italian favorite, or another type of dried mushroom like morels, chanterelles, or shiitakes. Or try a blend; we found one called Melissa's Exotic Mushroom Medley that contains porcini, chanterelle, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular orPorridgeYIELD: Serves 4 to 5 ounce dried mushrooms1 cups hottest possible tap waterAbout 1 cups beef, chicken, or vegetable stock1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter cup minced onion cup dry white wine1 cup plus 2 tablespoons medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano)TO FINISH2 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, or more, if desired2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for servingFreshly ground black pepperSalt 1. Place the mushrooms in a small bowl and add the hot water. Let stand for an hour or longer. (Or combine the mushrooms and water in a microwave-safe container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and microwave on high for 5 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.) When the mushrooms are soft, remove them from the liquid, squeezing gently to extract as much liquid as possible. Slice the mushrooms into pieces about x 1 inch, discarding any tough stems. The exact size is not important, but if you cut them too small, their flavor will not be as intense. Carefully pour the mushroom soaking liquid into a measuring cup, leaving any grit behind. (If the mushrooms were especially gritty, you may want to pour the liquid through a coffee filterlined strainer, but in general this is not necessary.) Add the stock to the mushroom soaking liquid to equal 3 cups.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the onion. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the grains are evenly coated and hot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the grains are transparent except for a white spot on each, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the stock mixture and mushrooms to the rice; stir to combine. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge cycle, or for the regular cycle and set a timer for 20 minutes.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, open the cover and stir with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The risotto should be only a bit liquid and the rice should be al dente al dente, tender with just a touch of tooth resistance. If needed, cook for a few minutes longer. This risotto will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

4. When ready to serve, add the b.u.t.ter. Close the cover for a minute to let the b.u.t.ter melt. Stir in the parsley, cheese, a few grinds of pepper, and salt to taste. Serve immediately.

asparagus and mushroom risotto This is the risotto Beth (and her mother) make every every time they make risotto. The asparagus and mushrooms cook with the rice, so it is sort of a primavera (spring vegetable) stew. Asparagus risotto is one of the most popular variations after the saffron version. Vary this by subst.i.tuting green beans, fresh peas, or zucchini for the asparagus, or combining any of them with it. This risotto is nice finished off with 2 tablespoons of heavy cream, if you happen to have any hanging around in the fridge. time they make risotto. The asparagus and mushrooms cook with the rice, so it is sort of a primavera (spring vegetable) stew. Asparagus risotto is one of the most popular variations after the saffron version. Vary this by subst.i.tuting green beans, fresh peas, or zucchini for the asparagus, or combining any of them with it. This risotto is nice finished off with 2 tablespoons of heavy cream, if you happen to have any hanging around in the fridge.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/off CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular or PorridgeYIELD: Serves 4 to 6 pound fresh asparagus pound fresh asparagus1 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons minced shallots1 cup plus 2 tablespoons medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano)2 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced3 cups chicken stock, or one 14.5-ounce can chicken broth plus water to equal 3 cupsTO FINISH2 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for servingSalt 1. Snap off the ends of the asparagus stalks and discard. If the remaining stalks are thick, peel with a vegetable peeler. Cut the spears on the diagonal into 2-inch pieces.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the shallots. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir until the grains are evenly coated and hot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the grains are transparent except for a white spot on each, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and asparagus, stirring for a minute or two. Add the stock; stir to combine. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge cycle, or for the regular cycle and set a timer for 20 minutes.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, stir the risotto with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The risotto should be only a bit liquid, and the rice should be al dente al dente, tender with just a touch of tooth resistance. If needed, cook for a few minutes longer. This risotto will hold on Keep Warm for an hour or so.

4. When ready to serve, add the b.u.t.ter. Close the cover for a minute or so to allow the b.u.t.ter to melt. Stir in the cheese and salt to taste. Serve immediately.

prawn risotto with seasonal vegetables Look on a map and it is easy to see that Italy is a country with plenty of coastline bordering on the Mediterranean, Mare Nostrum Mare Nostrum to the ancients. Seafood is reflected in every type of Italian recipe and anything from smoked and fresh salmon, clams, mussels, and scallops, to fresh tuna are included in delicious risottos. Prawn risotto is probably the most popular sh.e.l.lfish risotto and can be made with either fresh raw or frozen prawns. You can use either a fish or chicken stock (the flavor will be slightly different with each). Please note that seafood risottos are never served with cheese; just plain. to the ancients. Seafood is reflected in every type of Italian recipe and anything from smoked and fresh salmon, clams, mussels, and scallops, to fresh tuna are included in delicious risottos. Prawn risotto is probably the most popular sh.e.l.lfish risotto and can be made with either fresh raw or frozen prawns. You can use either a fish or chicken stock (the flavor will be slightly different with each). Please note that seafood risottos are never served with cheese; just plain.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/off CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular or PorridgeYIELD: Serves 3 to 4 cup water cup dry white wine 1 bay leaf 1 bay leaf12 ounces medium-size prawns, sh.e.l.led, deveined, and each cut into 2 or 3 pieces2 tablespoons olive oil cup finely chopped shallots1 small clove garlic, minced1 cup diced zucchini, asparagus pieces, or fresh peas, or 3 cups baby spinach1 cup medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano)About 2 cups chicken or fish stock SaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. In the rice cooker bowl (or in a shallow pan on the stovetop if you want to get the rice started), combine the water, wine, and bay leaf. Close the cover and set for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. When the liquid comes to a boil, add the prawns and cook, uncovered, until they turn pink and are opaque in the center, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. If you are using frozen cooked prawns, just immerse them in the boiling liquid for 15 seconds. With a slotted spoon, trans fer the prawns to a plate and set aside. Pour the remaining liquid into a measuring cup and discard the bay leaf. Wipe out and dry the rice cooker bowl.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Add the oil and, when hot, stir in the shallots and garlic. Cook, stirring a few times, until soft but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vegetables and cook briefly to take off the raw edge, another few minutes. When the vegetables have softened, add the rice and stir to coat the grains with oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the grains of rice are transparent except for a white spot on each, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the reserved prawn liquid and stock to equal 3 cups; stir to combine. Reset for the Porridge cycle, or for the regular cycle and set a timer for 20 minutes.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, stir in the prawns. Close the cover and let steam for 5 minutes. The risotto should be only a bit liquid and the rice should be al dente al dente, tender with just a touch of tooth resistance. If needed, cook for a few minutes longer. This risotto will hold on Keep Warm for up to 20 minutes. Serve immediately, with salt and pepper to taste.

italian sausage risotto This hearty winter risotto focuses its flavor on the spicy sausage, another Italian favorite. This recipe is a most basic method and can be made with vegetables instead of the sausage; subst.i.tute one to two diced roasted red or yellow bell peppers for the sausage. Note that this recipe is slightly larger than the others; it feeds six.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular or PorridgeYIELD: Serves 6 to 8 pound fennel or sweet Italian sausage, cut into -inch-thick slices2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup finely chopped yellow onion cup dry white wine2 cups medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano)5 cups chicken stock, or two 14.5-ounce cans chicken broth plus water to equal 5 cups)TO FINISH2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for servingSaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. In a small skillet, combine the sausage and water. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until browned and heated through, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a double layer of paper towels.

2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the onion. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the sausage and cook for a few minutes to heat it. Add the wine and cook until reduced, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat the grains with the hot b.u.t.ter. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the grains of rice are transparent except for a white spot on each, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the stock; stir to combine. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge cycle, or for the regular cycle and set a timer for 25 minutes.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, stir the risotto with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The risotto should be only a bit liquid and the rice should be al dente al dente, tender with just a touch of tooth resistance. If needed, cook for a few minutes longer. This risotto will hold on Keep Warm for an hour or so.

4. When ready to serve, stir in the parsley and cheese, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.

risi e bisi Rice and peas is a beloved comfort food in Italy. It's not technically a risotto because when it's made in the conventional manner on the stovetop, the broth is added at once, not ladleful by ladleful as with risotto. In the rice cooker, of course, the method is the same as for risotto. You can make it with fresh or frozen peas. Fresh peas should be added at the beginning of the cooking time, unless they are very young and tender; add frozen peas at the end.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular or PorridgeYIELD: Serves 4 to 51 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter cup minced shallots or mild onion cup minced celery2 tablespoons dry white wine 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons medium-grain risotto rice ( 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano)3 cups chicken, meat, or vegetable stock1 cups fresh or frozen peasTO FINISH2 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons heavy cream cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for servingSalt 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the rice cooker bowl. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the shallots and celery. Cook, stirring a few times, until the shallots are softened but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and cook for a couple of minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat the grains with the hot b.u.t.ter. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the grains of rice are transparent except for a white spot on each, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the stock and peas, if you are using fresh, mature peas; stir to combine. Close the cover and reset for the Porridge cycle, or for the regular cycle and set a timer for 20 minutes.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, stir the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The rice should be only a bit liquid and the rice should be al dente al dente, tender with just a touch of tooth resistance. If needed, cook for a few minutes longer. This rice will hold on the Keep Warm cycle for up to 1 hour.

3. When you are ready to serve, add the peas, if you are using frozen or very tender fresh ones; stir just to combine. Add the b.u.t.ter and close the cover for 2 to 3 minutes to allow it to melt and the peas to heat through. Stir in the cream, cheese, and salt to taste. Serve immediately.

BOIL YOUR ITALIAN RICE LIKE SPAGHETt.i.there is a method for cooking rice, not only medium-grain rice, but long-grain rice as well (the French love rice cooked like this), in a pot of vigorously boiling water until al dente, then draining it. If you have Arborio rice around and don't want to make risotto, this is the way you can cook it and have an instant side dish. It is as delicious as it is simple. Serve with b.u.t.ter and freshly grated cheese, or with some homemade marinara sauce or Fondutta over the top. The on/off rice cooker is perfect for making this rice since it boils water vigorously. You can also make this with half the amount of rice and water in a medium (6-cup) on/off cooker.Boiled Italian RiceMACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker: on/off o n l yCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 3 to 42 quarts waterPinch of salt1 cups medium-grain risotto rice (superfino Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano) to cup freshly grated or shredded Parmesan cheese, to your taste, plus more for serving2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, to your tasteFreshly ground black pepper1. Place the water and salt in the rice cooker bowl (we fill to the 6- to 7-cup line on the inside of the bowl). Set for the regular cycle and bring the water to a rolling boil, 5 to 7 minutes.2. Add the rice in a steady stream, stirring with a wooden spoon. Bring the water back to a boil and set a timer for 18 minutes. Boil the rice the entire time, uncovered. When the timer sounds, check the rice; you want it tender with a bit of bite, just like spaghetti. Cook for a few minutes longer, if necessary, until the desired texture is reached.3. Turn off the cooker by unplugging it. Using oven mitts, carefully remove the full rice bowl from the machine. Drain the rice through a fine strainer into the sink, then pour the rice into a medium-size serving bowl. Immediately stir in the cheese and b.u.t.ter. Serve hot with more cheese and black pepper on the side.

SUSHI.

Sushi Rice Maki Sushi California Rolls Inari Zushi Chirashi Sushi (Osaka Style) j.a.panese home cooks make sushi often, but not the little fish-topped rice logs, called nigiri nigiri sushi, that are perhaps the most common sushi bar offerings. The word sushi, that are perhaps the most common sushi bar offerings. The word sushi sushi, in fact, refers not to fish but to the vinegar-dressed rice that is the basis for a wide variety of sushi dishes. Nigiri Nigiri sushi is deemed too hard to make at home. The sushi chef's special training is required for almost every step of the process-shaping the rice just so, cutting the fish properly, and so on. Home cooks have their own versions of sushi. j.a.panese home cooks prepare: sushi is deemed too hard to make at home. The sushi chef's special training is required for almost every step of the process-shaping the rice just so, cutting the fish properly, and so on. Home cooks have their own versions of sushi. j.a.panese home cooks prepare: [image]Maki sushi-seaweed-wrapped rolls that are sliced to expose the carefully arranged fillings inside.

[image]Hand rolls-the sushi rice is spread on a piece of seaweed, topped with fillings (you can use the fillings detailed below under the maki maki section), and casually rolled up in an ice-cream cone shape to be eaten out of hand. section), and casually rolled up in an ice-cream cone shape to be eaten out of hand.

[image]Inari zushi-the rice is stuffed into hollow little "pockets" made from fried tofu. This is great lunch box and picnic food.

[image]Chirashi sushi-like a rice salad, a sort of sushi in a bowl.

A NOTE ABOUT STORAGEA NOTE ABOUT RAW FISH.

sushi rice For any form of sushi, the first step is the rice, which your rice cooker will allow you to prepare perfectly. Many rice cookers made for the j.a.panese market have a special Sushi cycle. Even if your cooker doesn't have this cycle, you can use it to make great sushi rice.

This is a basic recipe for rice cooker sushi rice. The amount of the vinegar dressing-and the manner in which it is seasoned with salt and sugar-is subject to both regional and personal variation. Sushi rice is said to be made saltier in the Tokyo area, sweeter near Osaka. Individual cooks vary the sugar and salt to suit their own tastes. The type of rice you use is very important; it will be labeled "short-grain" or "medium-grain" and you want a j.a.panese-style medium-grain rice, not a risotto or Carolina medium-grain rice. An excellent, but somewhat expensive, brand is Tamaki Gold from Williams Rice Milling Company of Williams, California. Other favorites that are good, and likely to be slightly cheaper, are Kokuho Rose and Nishiki. If you can't find them, look for rice labeled "new variety" or "sushi rice." Calrose is okay if you can't find anything else.

It is traditional to use a wooden bowl to mix your sushi rice because the wood absorbs excess moisture. This mixing tub is called a han giri han giri, and it looks like half of a very flat wine barrel. It is made of a wood from the paulownia tree and banded with copper strips. Han giri Han giri are expensive, but new ones are easily available in j.a.panese hardware stores or large Asian markets. You can also use any large wooden bowl that isn't oily and doesn't smell like salad dressing. If you don't have a wooden bowl that is pristine, a medium-large plastic, metal, or gla.s.s bowl works fine. are expensive, but new ones are easily available in j.a.panese hardware stores or large Asian markets. You can also use any large wooden bowl that isn't oily and doesn't smell like salad dressing. If you don't have a wooden bowl that is pristine, a medium-large plastic, metal, or gla.s.s bowl works fine.

You will also need something to blow cool air on the rice while you mix it. A hand fan or a folded-up newspaper is okay in a pinch, but many j.a.panese home cooks just aim an electric fan at the bowl. One friend uses a hair dryer set on "cool." That delivers a nicely focused stream of air and is especially good if you have a friend there to hold it steady. (A blow dryer or a hand fan is tricky to juggle by yourself.) MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ; fuzzy logic or on/off CYCLE: Regular or Sushi YIELD: 51/ 2 cups loosely packed rice 2 cups (3 rice cooker cups) high-quality j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain rice About 2 cups water 2 tablespoons sake cup rice vinegar 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, to your taste 1 teaspoon salt 1. Wash the rice thoroughly. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go so that all the rice is "scrubbed." (One friend calls this giving the rice a ma.s.sage, and you definitely do want to use some muscle power.) The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process twice more. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

2. Add the cooking water. Some cooks like to use bottled water; do this if you are not crazy about the taste of your tap water. (Note that you are using slightly less water than the regular 3-cup level marker on your cooker bowl; the exact amount depends on how much water remains in your washed and drained rice.) Let the rice soak in the rice cooker bowl for 30 minutes if your machine has a built-in soak period, 45 minutes if it doesn't.

3. Add the sake to the rice. Close the cover and set for the regular or Sushi cycle.

4. While the rice is cooking, prepare the vinegar mixture. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, just until the salt and sugar melt. Or you can heat the vinegar mixture in a micro wave oven. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

5. While the rice is cooking, lay out the following items around your works.p.a.ce. When the rice is done, you will have to act quickly, so everything should be a.s.sembled and available within arm's reach.

[image]a clean dishcloth or cloth napkin, rinsed in cool water and wrung out [image]a han giri han giri, a clean bowl, wooden (if it is pristine), plastic, metal, or gla.s.s (if your bowl is wooden, rinse it out with cool water to prevent the rice from sticking) [image]the plastic rice spatula that came with your cooker, rinsed in cool water [image]your vinegar mixture, at room temperature [image]an electric fan, a hair dryer with a "cool" setting, a hand fan, or a folded newspaper 6. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Then use the spatula to scoop all the rice into the bowl. Holding the spatula in one hand (with the curved back side facing up) over the rice and the pan with the vinegar mixture in the other, slowly pour the vinegar over the spatula, letting it run off and fall lightly onto the rice. Move the spatula around the bowl as you pour. The net effect will be to sprinkle the vinegar as evenly as possible over the surface of the rice. Gently nestle the damp cloth over the rice, covering it completely and bunching up the cloth against the side of the bowl. Wait 2 minutes.

7. Mix and cool the rice. You want rice that is shiny, body temperature or a bit cooler, mostly dry, and fairly sticky. The grains should be distinct, not mashed. Force-cooling the rice keeps it from absorbing the vinegar and getting too sticky.

Aim the electric fan at the rice in the bowl (or get your hair dryer or hand fan ready), but don't turn it on yet. Mix the rice with the spatula, holding the spatula vertically and using it like a knife, gently and repeatedly cutting through and lifting sections of rice. (If you stirred the rice in the traditional manner, you would quickly make rice mush.) Rotate the bowl so that all of the rice gets mixed. After 1 minute of mixing, turn the fan to low or medium speed (or begin to use the hair dryer or to fan the rice by hand). Continue "cutting," lifting, fanning, and turning the bowl until the rice is shiny and about body temperature (feel it with your palm). The rice is now ready to use.

If you are not ready to a.s.semble your sushi, just set the spatula on top of the rice and re-cover the rice with the towel. The rice can wait, covered with the towel, for about an hour or so.

maki sushi Maki are seaweed-wrapped rolls of rice with something tasty centered inside. The rolls are sliced to expose a cross section of the fillings, which range from the extremely simple, like cuc.u.mber strips, to the inventive, like California rolls, the crab, avocado, sesame, and cuc.u.mber combination that indeed was created in the United States. are seaweed-wrapped rolls of rice with something tasty centered inside. The rolls are sliced to expose a cross section of the fillings, which range from the extremely simple, like cuc.u.mber strips, to the inventive, like California rolls, the crab, avocado, sesame, and cuc.u.mber combination that indeed was created in the United States. Maki Maki sushi is typically made in three thicknesses; medium (about 1 inches across) is the easiest to handle. You can be as creative as you want, but remember that anything used to stuff sushi is typically made in three thicknesses; medium (about 1 inches across) is the easiest to handle. You can be as creative as you want, but remember that anything used to stuff maki maki sushi should be soft. Raw cuc.u.mber is okay, but carrot strips should be cooked. sushi should be soft. Raw cuc.u.mber is