- 6 bone-in veal rib chops veal rib chops, about 1 inches thick, 8 to 10 ounces each - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 8 ounces shredded fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) - 1 cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging, plus more as needed for dredging, plus more as needed - 12 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 1 tablespoon tomato paste tomato paste - 2 cups white wine white wine - cup hot chicken broth chicken broth RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A meat mallet; a heavy-bottomed ovenproof saucepan or enameled cast-iron French oven, 6-quart capacity, with a cover Arrange an oven rack to accommodate the covered saucepan, and heat the oven to 400.

Trim the chops, leaving only a thin layer of fat. With a sharp, thin knife, slice horizontally into the outer edge of each chop, splitting the meaty portion in two almost all the way to the bone, forming a pocket for stuffing. With the mallet, pound and spread the meaty part, flattening it to -inch thickness. Lift the top flap of the meat you just sliced apart, hold it up, and pound the bottom flap of meat a few more times, spreading it thinner and wider than the upper flap. When all the chops are sliced and pounded, salt them on both sides, using a teaspoon in all.

Toss together the shredded fontina and the grana grana (grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), and divide the cheeses into six equal portions. One at a time, lightly compress the cheese portions into oval patties, and slip them into the sliced chop pockets. Fold the larger bottom meat flap over the top flap-enclosing the cheese-and thread a toothpick through both flaps to keep them together. (The chops can be prepared up to this point a day in advance, sealed in plastic wrap, and refrigerated.) (grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), and divide the cheeses into six equal portions. One at a time, lightly compress the cheese portions into oval patties, and slip them into the sliced chop pockets. Fold the larger bottom meat flap over the top flap-enclosing the cheese-and thread a toothpick through both flaps to keep them together. (The chops can be prepared up to this point a day in advance, sealed in plastic wrap, and refrigerated.) Put 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter and the olive oil in the big pan, and set over medium-high heat. Spread the flour on a plate, dredge each chop on both sides, shake off excess flour, and lay it in the pan. When all the chops are in the pan, drop the sage leaves in between them. Cook the chops for 5 minutes or more, turning them once or twice, until well browned on both sides.

Clear a s.p.a.ce in the pan bottom, drop in the tomato paste, and toast it in the hot spot for a minute. Pour the wine over the tomato paste, stir them together, and shake the pan to distribute the liquid. Bring it to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes or so, to reduce.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter and whisk it into the pan liquid. Turn the chops over, pour in the chicken stock, sprinkle on the remaining salt, and bring to a boil.

Cover the pan, and place in the oven. Roast for about 15 minutes, then remove the cover and roast another 10 minutes or so, until the chops are done and the sauce has thickened.

Remove from the oven, and place the chops on a warm platter. (Drape a towel over the handle of the pan when it comes out of the oven to remind you it is very hot.) If the sauce is thin, put the pan over high heat and reduce until the sauce has the consistency you like.

Serve right away-while the cheese is still oozing-arranging all the chops on a warm platter and spooning the sauce over, family-style, or on warm dinner plates with mashed potatoes alongside and sauce drizzled over. (If you do do have fresh white truffle, shave it on the top of each chop at this moment.) have fresh white truffle, shave it on the top of each chop at this moment.) BEEF F FILET WITH W WINE S SAUCE.

Filetto alla Carbonade Serves 6 Serves 6 In this version of carbonade carbonade, the beef-and-wine dish that is a hallmark of Valdostana cuisine, the princ.i.p.al elements are cooked independently. First, you prepare the sauce, cooking red wine with aromatic vegetables and herbs until complex in flavor and highly concentrated. Later, the beef tenderloin, the filetto filetto, is skillet-roasted (on the stovetop) until crusted and caramelized outside and juicy inside-a simple cooking method that takes barely 15 minutes. Before serving, you deglaze the empty skillet with the wine sauce and blend in the b.u.t.ter. It is only on the serving platter that the beef and wine come together, yet the pairing is perfect.

I particularly like this separately cooked wine sauce because it is as good with other meats as it is with the filetto. filetto. Try it with roasts, such as loin of pork or rabbit, or with game, such as tenderloin of venison or elk, seared like the beef tenderloin here. Try it with roasts, such as loin of pork or rabbit, or with game, such as tenderloin of venison or elk, seared like the beef tenderloin here.

- 3 cups dry red wine dry red wine (a 750 ml bottle) (a 750 ml bottle) - 4 cups water water - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 1 cup onion onion chopped into -inch pieces chopped into -inch pieces - 1 cup carrot carrot chopped into -inch pieces chopped into -inch pieces - 1 cup celery celery chopped into -inch pieces chopped into -inch pieces - cup loosely packed dried porcini dried porcini (about ounce) (about ounce) - 2 sprigs fresh rosemary fresh rosemary - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 3-pound piece beef tenderloin beef tenderloin, at room temperature - 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 tablespoons cold b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks - 1 teaspoon honey honey RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 4-quart saucepan with a cover; a sieve; kitchen twine; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Pour the wine and water into the saucepan, and drop in the garlic, onion, carrot, celery, porcini, rosemary, and teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil, set the cover ajar, adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer, and cook for an hour or more, until the vegetables have exhausted all their flavors and the liquid level has reduced by half.

Set the sieve over a bowl, and pour the entire contents of the saucepan into it, straining out the solids and collecting the sauce in the bowl. Press the vegetables with a big spoon to release more sauce (then discard them). Rinse the saucepan, pour the strained sauce back into it, and bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, adjusting the heat so the sauce reduces steadily without scorching, until thickened and flavorful, about 1 cups in volume. Season with teaspoon salt, and keep the sauce warm.

Meanwhile, tie loops of kitchen twine tightly around the filet to keep it compact, even in shape, and easier to handle. Tie the first loops an inch in from either end of the filet, and more loops at 2-inch intervals along its length.

When you are ready to cook the filet, sprinkle the remaining teaspoon salt all over its surface. Pour the olive oil in the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, and put in the beef. Pan-sear the filet for 15 minutes-more or less, depending on how well done or rare you like it. Frequently roll and shift the tied meat in the pan, so it cooks and colors evenly on all sides, until crusty on the outside and medium-rare inside. Turn off heat, and put the filet on a warm plate.

To finish the sauce: Pour it all into the searing skillet, turn on the heat, and bring the liquid to a boil while sc.r.a.ping up all the browned bits from the skillet bottom. Stir to incorporate this flavorful glaze into the sauce as it heats.

While the sauce is boiling, drop in the cold b.u.t.ter, one piece at a time, vigorously whisking each one to amalgamate it fully with the sauce before adding the next piece. When the last bit of b.u.t.ter has disappeared in the sauce, turn off the heat and stir in the honey until it disappears, too.

To serve: Slice the meat crosswise into -inch-thick slices, snipping and removing the twine loops as you cut. Drizzle some of the wine sauce on a warm rimmed serving platter, and arrange the beef slices on top of the sauce (or drizzle a couple spoonfuls of sauce on rimmed dinner plates and top with individual portions of sliced beef). Serve immediately, with remaining sauce in a bowl to be pa.s.sed at the table.

LAYERED C Ca.s.sEROLE WITH B BEEF, CABBAGE & P & POTATO.

Socca Serves 8 or more Serves 8 or more Make this dish once and you will make it over and over. Everything about it is good. It requires only one big pan, and that one will contain a complete supper of meat, potatoes, and vegetable for at least eight and likely a dozen people. Best of all, everybody loves every bit that comes out of the pan.

Socca, as this is called in Valle d'Aosta, is exactly what the English recipe name says: a big ca.s.serole with layers of sliced beef, sliced potatoes, and shredded cabbage (all nicely seasoned). It bakes for several hours, until all the layers are fork-tender, then it's covered with a final layer of fontina, which bakes into an irresistibly crusty cheese topping. (Though it is unlikely you will have much left over, the dish will keep well for several days in the refrigerator; reheat it either on top of the stove or in the oven.) In Valle d'Aosta, the meat of choice in socca socca is beef or game; in my recipe, it's a top-blade roast from the beef chuck (or shoulder). Since I am sure you will make this again, I suggest you try it with slices of pork shoulder (the b.u.t.t roast) or lamb shoulder or lamb leg. These meats will be delicious in the ca.s.serole, too. is beef or game; in my recipe, it's a top-blade roast from the beef chuck (or shoulder). Since I am sure you will make this again, I suggest you try it with slices of pork shoulder (the b.u.t.t roast) or lamb shoulder or lamb leg. These meats will be delicious in the ca.s.serole, too.

- About a dozen large fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - cup fresh rosemary fresh rosemary leaves, stripped from the branch leaves, stripped from the branch - 8 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 tablespoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 pounds red potatoes red potatoes, sliced inch thick - A 4-pound boneless beef shoulder roast beef shoulder roast (preferably a "top blade" or "top chuck shoulder" roast) (preferably a "top blade" or "top chuck shoulder" roast) - 1 stick (8 tablespoons) soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 head Savoy cabbage Savoy cabbage, about 2 pounds, cored and sliced into -inch shreds - 2 cups white wine white wine - 1 pound shredded fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a large baking dish or roasting pan, 5-quart capacity, 10 by 15 inches or larger Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven, and heat to 425. Using a food processor, mince the sage, rosemary, garlic, cup of the olive oil, and teaspoon of the salt into a fine-textured pestata. pestata.

Put the potato slices in a large bowl; sprinkle on top 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and 1 tablespoon of the pestata. pestata. Toss well to coat the slices with the seasonings. Toss well to coat the slices with the seasonings.

With a sharp knife, slice the beef across the grain into -inch-thick slices-if using a top-blade roast, slice it crosswise. As you did with the potatoes, put the meat slices in a bowl and toss them with seasonings until well coated, using 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and 2 tablespoons of the pestata. pestata.

Brush the roasting pan with the remaining olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter. Arrange half of the potato slices in a single layer on the pan bottom, spread half the cabbage shreds evenly over the potatoes, and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Distribute all the beef slices, in a single layer, over the cabbage. (The pan should be about half full: press down on the beef if it looks like you need more room for the rest of the vegetables.) Dot the top of the beef with small mounds of b.u.t.ter, using another 3 tablespoons in all. Lay the remaining potato slices on top of the beef slices, spread the rest of the cabbage evenly over the slices, and season with the remaining teaspoon of salt. Stir all of the remaining pestata pestata into the white wine, and pour the wine all over the cabbage shreds. Finally, dot the top with the rest of the b.u.t.ter. into the white wine, and pour the wine all over the cabbage shreds. Finally, dot the top with the rest of the b.u.t.ter.

Tent the baking dish with a sheet of aluminum foil, arching it above the food and pressing it against the sides of the pan. Set the dish in the oven, and bake about 2 hours, until the meat and vegetables are all very tender and almost all of the liquid has been absorbed.

Remove the foil, and sprinkle the shredded fontina over the top of the potatoes and cabbage (which will have sunk down in the pan). Bake another 15 to 20 minutes, until the fontina has melted, bubbled, and browned into a crusty topping.

Let the ca.s.serole rest for 10 minutes. Set the roasting pan on a trivet at the table, and serve family-style, spooned onto dinner plates.

ALMOND P PUDDING.

Biancomangiare Serves 6 Serves 6 Biancomangiare (known as "blancmange" in French and English) is a very old milk-pudding dessert that food historians say has been made since the Middle Ages, in countries from the Middle East to Scandinavia. I am delighted with this modern (known as "blancmange" in French and English) is a very old milk-pudding dessert that food historians say has been made since the Middle Ages, in countries from the Middle East to Scandinavia. I am delighted with this modern biancomangiare biancomangiare, which I had recently in Valle d'Aosta. Rich with cream, flavored with both vanilla bean and almond extract, and molded in individual ramekins, it is quite similar to panna cotta. So, if you and your family like panna cotta, you will love this, too.

The puddings are lovely as is, unmolded onto plates, with their caramel syrup. They're even better served with poached fruit in season, such as poached pears or cherries. For a special touch, have the poached fruit ready when you make the biancomangiare. biancomangiare. Place a pear half or a few big cherries in the bottom of each ramekin or cup just before filling with the sweet pudding mixture. When you unmold it, the Place a pear half or a few big cherries in the bottom of each ramekin or cup just before filling with the sweet pudding mixture. When you unmold it, the biancomangiare biancomangiare will be crowned with the fruit and glistening with caramel. will be crowned with the fruit and glistening with caramel.

- cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar sugar - 2 cups milk milk - 2 cups heavy cream heavy cream - 1 vanilla bean vanilla bean - 2 envelopes unflavored gelatin unflavored gelatin (about 5 teaspoons) (about 5 teaspoons) - teaspoon almond extract almond extract - 6 poached half pears pears or 24 poached, pitted or 24 poached, pitted Bing cherries Bing cherries (optional) (optional) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A small, heavy skillet for making the caramel; six 8-ounce ramekins or other individual dessert molds; a heavy-bottomed saucepan, 3-quart capacity; fine strainer To make caramel: Put 6 tablespoons of the sugar and cup water in the small skillet, and set it over medium heat. Bring to a boil without stirring-the sugar will dissolve into a syrup. Let it bubble away without stirring or shaking the pan for 10 minutes or more as the syrup and the bubbles thicken, until the syrup starts to take on color, usually near the edge of the skillet. Lower the heat, and swirl the syrup so it caramelizes evenly. When it is a uniform copper color, carefully pour the hot caramel in equal amounts into the ramekins. Tilt and swirl each ramekin so the caramel coats the whole bottom evenly.

Pour the milk and cream into the saucepan. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, and sc.r.a.pe the sticky seeds into the milk. Stir in the remaining sugar; drop the split, sc.r.a.ped bean pod in, too. Set the pan over medium heat, and heat slowly to a simmer. Sprinkle in the gelatin, whisking constantly until completely dissolved, then turn off the heat.

Let the mixture cool to room temperature, stir in the almond extract, and pour through the strainer into a large, spouted measuring cup. Fill the ramekins with biancomangiare biancomangiare in equal amounts. Set them in the refrigerator overnight, or until set. in equal amounts. Set them in the refrigerator overnight, or until set.

To unmold: run the tip of a paring knife around the edge of the ramekins, set a dessert plate on top, and invert-tap the ramekin if necessary to release the pudding. Serve topped with poached fruit and syrup.

CHOCOLATE-BISCOTTI P PUDDING.

Budino di Gianduia Serves 6 to 8 Serves 6 to 8 This delightful pudding is a fine example of the art of using leftovers to make something fresh and new (without evidence of recycling). Here, crumbled biscotti, chopped chocolate, and chopped hazelnuts are mixed into the warm custard. As it cools and sets, the dry cookies absorb and meld with the custard, but also contribute their flavor and texture. This recipe is one upon which you can improvise, using whatever sweet remnants you have on hand, whether ginger snaps or shortbread cookies, or bits of dry sponge cake or pound cake.

- 2 large eggs eggs - cup sugar sugar - 2 tablespoons cornstarch cornstarch - 1 cups heavy cream heavy cream, plus more for whipped topping - 1 cup milk milk - 1 cups coa.r.s.ely hand-crumbled plain biscotti biscotti - 3 ounces finely chopped bittersweet chocolate bittersweet chocolate - cup toasted, skinned, finely chopped hazelnuts hazelnuts - cup cocoa powder cocoa powder, sifted RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 9-inch pie plate; a heavy-bottomed saucepan, 3-quart capacity Line the pie plate with plastic wrap, leaving a few inches overhang on all edges.

Whisk the eggs with the sugar in a large bowl. Whisk in the cornstarch until no lumps remain.

Pour the cream and milk into the saucepan, set it over low heat, and bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat, and slowly pour about 1 cup of the hot milk-cream into the egg bowl, whisking steadily, to temper the eggs. When blended, slowly pour the tempered eggs back into the saucepan of milk and cream, again whisking constantly.

Put the pan back over medium-low heat, and whisk steadily until the custard heats and thickens. Don't let it boil, though it should bubble occasionally. Cook for 7 to 8 minutes, until it is quite thick.

Remove from the heat, and stir in the crumbled biscotti, chopped chocolate, nuts, and cocoa powder. Stir continuously until the chocolate has melted and all the ingredients are evenly blended. Pour the custard into the pie plate, and cover with plastic wrap, laying it directly on the top of the pudding. Refrigerate until set, at least 4 hours or overnight.

To serve: Remove the top sheet of plastic, invert the budino budino onto a serving plate, and cut into wedges. Top with unsweetened whipped cream and coa.r.s.ely crumbled biscotti (if you have any left) or crushed hazelnuts; in season, strawberries or raspberries would be wonderful. onto a serving plate, and cut into wedges. Top with unsweetened whipped cream and coa.r.s.ely crumbled biscotti (if you have any left) or crushed hazelnuts; in season, strawberries or raspberries would be wonderful.

*Country Italian bread is best for this pasticciata. The width of the bread can vary since it is layered snugly in the baking dish, then cut in squares when served.

Valle d'Aosta is so rich in castles that as you are driving through the countryside it is hard to know how to choose which to stop at. I am particularly drawn to the castles of Fenis Fenis and and Issogne. Issogne. Set against the backdrop of the Alps, Fenis's silhouette looks as if someone had taken a large lace ribbon and casually placed it standing on its side on a soft hill in front of the mountains. In the early fifteenth century, Jacquerio painted for the Castello di Fenis one of the most elegant Set against the backdrop of the Alps, Fenis's silhouette looks as if someone had taken a large lace ribbon and casually placed it standing on its side on a soft hill in front of the mountains. In the early fifteenth century, Jacquerio painted for the Castello di Fenis one of the most elegant uomini ill.u.s.tri uomini ill.u.s.tri fresco cycles on the Italian peninsula, consisting of twenty-four figures each holding a scroll with a moral proverb or a saying in archaic French. fresco cycles on the Italian peninsula, consisting of twenty-four figures each holding a scroll with a moral proverb or a saying in archaic French.

The courtyard area of Castello d'Issogne Castello d'Issogne is decorated with representations of everyday shops and happenings depicted under the portico from the end of the fifteenth century. Almost like a voyeur, the visitor walks under the courtyard portico and looks at the arches on the walls, peering into the butcher shop, the bakery, the shoemaker's shop, and the tavern. The detail is extraordinary, as if a page of fifteenth-century life has been opened for us to enjoy. I love the two figures playing backgammon in the tavern, or the people busy at work in the fabric shop with reams of cloth piled on tables and clothes hanging from the rafters. The whole castle is worth exploring, particularly the wonderful chapel. is decorated with representations of everyday shops and happenings depicted under the portico from the end of the fifteenth century. Almost like a voyeur, the visitor walks under the courtyard portico and looks at the arches on the walls, peering into the butcher shop, the bakery, the shoemaker's shop, and the tavern. The detail is extraordinary, as if a page of fifteenth-century life has been opened for us to enjoy. I love the two figures playing backgammon in the tavern, or the people busy at work in the fabric shop with reams of cloth piled on tables and clothes hanging from the rafters. The whole castle is worth exploring, particularly the wonderful chapel.

The Castello di Verras Castello di Verras is built on a craggy rock. Ma.s.sive, towerless, and constructed in a cube shape, this is a castle that children enjoy, because the huge stone halls are almost empty. From one room inside, you can peer down into the vast hall below, which seems to go on forever. is built on a craggy rock. Ma.s.sive, towerless, and constructed in a cube shape, this is a castle that children enjoy, because the huge stone halls are almost empty. From one room inside, you can peer down into the vast hall below, which seems to go on forever.

Aosta, a Roman city founded in 25 B.C B.C., is one of the finest examples of Roman city planning, a perfect rectangle divided into a grid carved out by the roads. Twenty centuries later, the current city of Aosta follows pretty much the same city plan. There are many Roman artifacts, such as the triumphal Arch of August and the grand urban Roman villa that was excavated on the outskirts of town and is the only remaining Roman villa in the Valle d'Aosta.

The Abbey of Ranverso Ranverso is one of the most important examples of Lombard Gothic architecture. Its location in the Val di Susa, not far outside of Torino, has helped protect most of the structure, which consisted of a church, hospital, monastery, and farm. It was built on the busy pilgrimage route from Torino to Lyon. The overall effect is one of absolute elegance, particularly evident in its pointy arches and elongated spires. Mostly, I enjoy the rich pinkish brick color of the buildings. The intricate terra-cotta decorations weave around the outline of the architectural elements like frilly lace. is one of the most important examples of Lombard Gothic architecture. Its location in the Val di Susa, not far outside of Torino, has helped protect most of the structure, which consisted of a church, hospital, monastery, and farm. It was built on the busy pilgrimage route from Torino to Lyon. The overall effect is one of absolute elegance, particularly evident in its pointy arches and elongated spires. Mostly, I enjoy the rich pinkish brick color of the buildings. The intricate terra-cotta decorations weave around the outline of the architectural elements like frilly lace.

With all the medieval castles in Valle d'Aosta, Castel Savoia Castel Savoia in Gressoney is a relatively modern masterpiece. It was begun in 1899 by the Savoy family, kings of Italy, in particular for Margaret of Savoy. The castle is richly decorated with wood carvings and affords a wonderful panoramic view. There is also a lovely botanical garden.-T in Gressoney is a relatively modern masterpiece. It was begun in 1899 by the Savoy family, kings of Italy, in particular for Margaret of Savoy. The castle is richly decorated with wood carvings and affords a wonderful panoramic view. There is also a lovely botanical garden.-TANYA Les Crates winery in Aymavilles

Overleaf: Riomaggiore in Liguria

IT WAS IN THE HOME OF MY COUSINS LIDIA AND GIOVANNI BOSAZZI that I tasted Ligurian food for the first time. They had left Istria soon after it became a part of Yugoslavia, and by the time my parents decided to escape Istria ten years later, Lidia and Giovanni were already well established in Genova, the historic capital city of Liguria. I will never forget our first trip to visit them, approaching the coast by train from Trieste, pa.s.sing in and out of tunnels, the train whistling as we entered and the sound dissipating as we came out; the shimmering sea playing hide-and-seek as we zoomed past cl.u.s.ters of houses-bright pinks, mustardy yellows, blues of all shades-that converged into a village at the sea's edge. that I tasted Ligurian food for the first time. They had left Istria soon after it became a part of Yugoslavia, and by the time my parents decided to escape Istria ten years later, Lidia and Giovanni were already well established in Genova, the historic capital city of Liguria. I will never forget our first trip to visit them, approaching the coast by train from Trieste, pa.s.sing in and out of tunnels, the train whistling as we entered and the sound dissipating as we came out; the shimmering sea playing hide-and-seek as we zoomed past cl.u.s.ters of houses-bright pinks, mustardy yellows, blues of all shades-that converged into a village at the sea's edge.

Although my parents were apprehensive on that trip, having so recently escaped the communist bloc, for us children the trip was filled with discovery. New cousins, new places. But most of all I remember the first meal that my cousin Lidia cooked for us. She was a schoolteacher, yet she had time to make a lovely meal for us-a crostata stuffed with shredded zucchini, rice, and cheese. My first bite into that warm crust, redolent of sweet, b.u.t.tery Ligurian olive oil, still lingers in my taste memory.

After that came a steaming vegetable soup. Surely, it is not often that a child has an epiphany when eating vegetable soup. So why do I recall Cousin Lidia's zuppa di verdure zuppa di verdure so vividly, many years later? It was the garlic: Liguria is known for its aromatic garlic, and that soup was full of it. So was the so vividly, many years later? It was the garlic: Liguria is known for its aromatic garlic, and that soup was full of it. So was the aggiadda aggiadda, a sauce Lidia served that day, a pungent, creamy emulsion of olive oil, vinegar-soaked bread, and lots of Ligurian garlic. I indulged that day in a garlicky feast that has guided my palate for more than half a century.

As you can see in the map, Liguria is a thin strip of land where northwestern Italy hugs the Mediterranean Sea-or Mar Ligure, as it is called locally. Sheltered from the cold north by the mountains, and basking in the sun's warm rays reflected by the shimmering Mar Ligure, the whole of Liguria enjoys an ideal microclimate; it is a true paradise. Indeed, my dear friend Fred Plotkin, an extraordinary musical historian and cookbook writer, named his Ligurian cookbook Recipes from Paradise. Recipes from Paradise.

Giovanni and Lidia are well into their eighties now, and I go to Genova to see them as often as I can. And on every trip, it seems, I discover another corner of this paradise called Liguria. Recently, in late summer, my friend Mario joined me in Genova for a culinary adventure. Before we even left the city, we stopped for lunch in the zona del Porto zona del Porto, the old port section, at a little trattoria, Antica Osteria di Vico Palla, a family-run establishment where I knew we would find superb local fare.

As soon as we sat down, a basket of deliciously resilient focaccia was put on the table along with a bowl of oil-cured taggiasca taggiasca olives. These small oval olives, fruity and delicate in flavor, are the preeminent variety pressed for delicious Ligurian olive oil. And when cured-whether in brine or oil-the olives. These small oval olives, fruity and delicate in flavor, are the preeminent variety pressed for delicious Ligurian olive oil. And when cured-whether in brine or oil-the taggiasca taggiasca is one of my favorite olives for cooking or simply in an antipasto. Then we had is one of my favorite olives for cooking or simply in an antipasto. Then we had farinata farinata, a flavorful treat made from a batter of ceci ceci (chickpea) flour, water, olive oil, and salt that's baked in the oven. With its delicious nutty taste and velvety mouth-feel, it's a favorite snack of Genovese, sold at bakeries and by street vendors all over the city. (chickpea) flour, water, olive oil, and salt that's baked in the oven. With its delicious nutty taste and velvety mouth-feel, it's a favorite snack of Genovese, sold at bakeries and by street vendors all over the city.

Mario had sbirra sbirra-a traditional dish of tripe with potatoes and tomatoes-and though I forked some tripe from his bowl now and then, for me Liguria is the place to indulge my love for vegetables. So I ordered Zuppa di Verdure all'Agliata Zuppa di Verdure all'Agliata, the delicious vegetable soup redolent of garlic. And of course we had to sample the Osteria's rendition of Trenette con Pesto alla Genovese Trenette con Pesto alla Genovese, the region's signature pasta dish. This one had all the cla.s.sic elements-diced potato and green beans cooked with the long trenette trenette, all dressed with a brilliant green basil pesto and final flourishes of superb Ligurian olive oil and grated cheeses.

Two more vegetables alla Genovese alla Genovese followed: one, a plate of braised spinach with pignoli nuts and raisins and delightful anchovies, and the other, sauteed green beans with anchovies and glints of lemon as well. The highlight of that meal, though, was the stuffed baked vegetables-peppers, mushrooms, zucchini, eggplant, and ripe tomato-with the lightest of fillings, intense with the aroma of the vegetables, all baked to a crispy top. followed: one, a plate of braised spinach with pignoli nuts and raisins and delightful anchovies, and the other, sauteed green beans with anchovies and glints of lemon as well. The highlight of that meal, though, was the stuffed baked vegetables-peppers, mushrooms, zucchini, eggplant, and ripe tomato-with the lightest of fillings, intense with the aroma of the vegetables, all baked to a crispy top.

As we headed out of town, winding up and down and around the coast road, I observed (not for the first time) that there is something very green about Ligurian cuisine, which reflects the landscape. All the houses have terraces full of blossoming flowers and gardens bursting with vegetables and herbs-especially basil, a Ligurian variety with small leaves no bigger than the end of a Q-tip. It has an intense flavor and a pleasant scent without a trace of the mint found in the large-leaf basil Americans are familiar with.

Stuffed Vegetables-Ripieni all'Antica Since it is blessed with such marvelous fresh herbs and greens, it's no wonder that Ligurian cooking is filled with many fresh, uncooked pestos-not just the basil-and-pignoli variety. Fred Plotkin explains that Genova's historical role as a seafaring city led directly to the creation of pesto. For centuries, Genovese mariners and traders were regarded (along with the Venetians) as the best. After all, Cristoforo Colombo was born in Genova. At sea for weeks and months, these sailors surely yearned for the fresh flavors and herbs of their verdant Liguria. According to Fred, they returned home determined not only to feast but to find a way to bring the fresh foods with them on their next voyage. What better way than pounding and grinding them into a convenient, portable condiment? And so pesto alla Genovese pesto alla Genovese was born. was born.

With Genova behind us, our late-summer journey took Mario and me southeast, toward the breathtaking stretch of Ligurian coast known as Cinque Terre-the Five Lands. Here, steep-sloped promontories stick out into the sea like extended fingers. And in between (where the fingers meet the hand), a town nestles in each fjordlike cove, its narrow streets and steep stairways winding from the rocky seaside upward to rows of houses, stacked against the cliffs and clinging to the hillsides. Visitors from around the world hike the footpaths of the Cinque Terre, from one end to another, marveling at the natural beauty and stopping in each of the picturesque towns-Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore-to rest, take pictures, and, of course, eat.

In Riomaggiore we had a most memorable meal with the winemaker Paolo Fellegara, discussing the topography of this marvelous terrain. I discovered a new love-a pesto called preboggion preboggion that includes borage, chervil, chicory, and other wild herbs all ground with olive oil and garlic with pestle and mortar. The sauce dressed that includes borage, chervil, chicory, and other wild herbs all ground with olive oil and garlic with pestle and mortar. The sauce dressed trofie trofie, a twisted dry pasta typical of Liguria, topped with grated Pecorino Sardo. We sipped a 2005 Cinque Terre white Bonnani Fellegara-Paolo's pride-and admired the shimmering sea, the source of our next course, fried sardines. The Mar Ligure is known for its small bluefish-a modest catch but great eating.

As always, I yearned for fresh vegetables, and accompanying my crispy sardines came a bowl of Condiggion Condiggion, a Ligurian bread salad. It was made of crunchy cuc.u.mbers, thinly sliced peppers, basil, garlic, ripe tomatoes, chicory, and chunks of day-old bread steeped in a dressing of red-wine vinegar and Ligurian olive oil, which squirted goodness with every bite I took. As I dug in deeper, I discovered slivers of bottarga bottarga, the salted, pressed, and dried roe of tuna. Known as "poor man's caviar" and widely used in the coastal regions and in Sicily and Sardinia, where it is produced, bottarga bottarga turned that seemingly simple salad into a powerhouse of flavor and textures. turned that seemingly simple salad into a powerhouse of flavor and textures.

Walter de Batte, the renowned Ligurian winemaker, joined us for coffee, and we finished with a gla.s.s of his Sciacchetra, a late-harvest wine, with aromas of almonds and apricots. Available in very limited quant.i.ties, it is a wine that was much prized through the ages, then fell out of fashion; Walter is credited with its revival. Thank you, Walter, and thank you, Liguria.

RICE & Z & ZUCCHINI C CROSTATA.

Torta di Riso e Zucchine Makes 15 or more appetizer slices or several dozen hors d'oeuvres Makes 15 or more appetizer slices or several dozen hors d'oeuvres This is a generously proportioned version of the delicious rice-and-zucchini crostata, or tart, that my cousin Lidia prepared when our family first visited Genova, nearly fifty years ago. She made hers in a small baking pan, and mine is the same, only bigger! I use a half-sheet baking pan (a jelly-roll pan will work, too) lined with the olive-oil-based dough that has no leavening, is easy to make, and fantastic to roll.

The large size of this crostata is necessary, I find, because the crostata disappears right away. Whether I put it on a buffet in bite-sized party pieces, bring it to a picnic, or serve it as a plated appetizer or main course with salad, everyone loves it-and has to have another piece. And in the unlikely event you do have leftovers, they can be frozen and reheated-just as good as when freshly baked.

The procedure is straightforward and quick, though there's one important (and interesting) step you must leave time for: steeping the uncooked rice with the shredded zucchini. Since squash is a watery vegetable and rice is dry and starchy, this steeping allows the rice to extract most of the vegetal water from the zucchini. In this way, the grain is softened enough to cook during the baking time, and without absorbing all the liquid from the ricotta and milk. The result is a moist, creamy, and flavorful filling.

- FOR THE DOUGH - 2 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more for working - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - cup cold water water, plus more as needed - FOR THE FILLING - 1 pound small zucchini zucchini - cup Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - 2 cups ricotta ricotta, preferably fresh, drained - 1 cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 2 bunches scallions scallions, finely chopped (about 2 cups) - 3 large eggs eggs, lightly beaten - 2 cups milk milk - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - b.u.t.ter for the baking pan for the baking pan RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a baking stone, if you have one; a 12-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet (a half-sheet pan) To make the dough: Put the 2 cups flour and the salt in the food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse a few seconds to aerate. Mix the oil and water together in a spouted measuring cup. With the processor running, pour the liquid through the feed tube and process about 30 seconds, until a soft dough forms and gathers on the blade. If it doesn't, it is probably too dry. Add more water, in small amounts, until you have a smooth, very soft dough.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for a minute, until it's smooth and soft. Pat into a rectangle and wrap in plastic wrap. Let rest at room temperature for hour. (The dough can be refrigerated for up to a day, or frozen for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator, and return to room temperature before rolling.) To make the filling: Shred the zucchini on the coa.r.s.e holes of a box grater into a large bowl. Toss the rice and shredded zucchini together, and let sit for 30 minutes to an hour, so the grains absorb the vegetable liquid. Fold in the ricotta (breaking up any lumps), then the grated cheese, scallions, beaten eggs, milk, and salt, stirring until thoroughly mixed.

When you're ready to bake the torta torta, set a rack in the bottom half of the oven-with a baking stone on it, if you have one-and heat the oven to 375. Spread the b.u.t.ter on the bottom and sides of the pan.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a rectangle that's at least 4 inches longer and wider than the baking sheet. Transfer the dough to the pan, either by folding it in quarters and lifting it onto the sheet, or by rolling it up around the floured rolling pin and then unfurling it over the baking sheet. When the dough is centered over the pan, then gently press it flat against the bottom and rim of the pan, leaving even flaps of overhanging dough on all sides. (If the dough tears as you are moving it, patch it with a bit of dough from the edges.) Pour and sc.r.a.pe the rice-zucchini filling into the dough-lined pan, and spread it to fill the crust in an even layer. Fold the dough flaps over the top of the filling, pleating the corners, to form a top crust border that looks like a picture frame, with the filling exposed in the middle.

Set the pan in the oven (on the heated stone), and bake until the crust is deep golden brown and the filling is set, 45 minutes to an hour. About halfway through the baking time, turn the pan in the oven, back to front, for even color and cooking.

Cool the torta torta on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes to set the filling before slicing. The on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes to set the filling before slicing. The torta torta can be served warm or at room temperature, cut into appetizer or bite-sized pieces in any shape you like-squares, rectangles, triangles, or diamonds. can be served warm or at room temperature, cut into appetizer or bite-sized pieces in any shape you like-squares, rectangles, triangles, or diamonds.

STUFFED V VEGETABLES.

Ripieni all'Antica Makes about 3 dozen vegetable morsels Makes about 3 dozen vegetable morsels A platter of baked stuffed vegetables is one of the everyday delights of the Genovese table, and I always sample a seasonal a.s.sortment when I visit the city. The array is never exactly the same, and this recipe is a guideline that you can (and should) vary according to your tastes and what's available.

I give you one delicious and easy bread stuffing, along with procedures for preparing and baking a few of the most typical vegetables used in Genova-bell peppers, mushrooms, sweet onions, tomatoes, and zucchini. Many others can be subst.i.tuted and will be delicious with this stuffing, including beets, fennel, squash, and even carrots. Of course, you don't have to have every one of the vegetables I recommend. Stuff just a couple of different veggies, or just pick one, such as stuffed and baked big mushrooms, if that's what you like.

Like other Ligurian vegetable dishes, ripieni all'Antica ripieni all'Antica can be served piping hot, warm, or at room temperature; presented on individual plates, or family-style on large platters. They make a great appetizer, a side dish for grilled steak, lamb, or chicken, or a vegetarian main course. And when I have a few leftover vegetables, I heat them up in the morning and top them with a fried or poached egg, for a special breakfast. can be served piping hot, warm, or at room temperature; presented on individual plates, or family-style on large platters. They make a great appetizer, a side dish for grilled steak, lamb, or chicken, or a vegetarian main course. And when I have a few leftover vegetables, I heat them up in the morning and top them with a fried or poached egg, for a special breakfast.

- FOR THE STUFFING - 4 cups 1-inch cubes of day-old or dry country bread country bread, crusts removed (about 4 thick slices) - 1 cup milk milk - ounce dried porcini dried porcini (about cup loosely packed pieces), soaked in 2 cups warm water (about cup loosely packed pieces), soaked in 2 cups warm water - 1 cup finely chopped scallions scallions - 10 large fresh basil fresh basil leaves, finely chopped leaves, finely chopped - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 large eggs eggs, lightly beaten - FOR THE VEGETABLE a.s.sORTMENT - 2 or more medium zucchini zucchini (6 inches long) (6 inches long) - 2 or more red or other colorful bell peppers bell peppers - 12 or more large white stuffing mushrooms mushrooms - 3 or more ripe small tomatoes tomatoes - 2 or more large Vidalia or other sweet, flat onions Vidalia or other sweet, flat onions - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - b.u.t.ter for the baking dishes for the baking dishes - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: 2 or more large shallow baking dishes or ca.s.seroles, such as 4-quart, 15-by-10-inch Pyrex pans To make the stuffing: Put the bread cubes in a mixing bowl, and pour the milk over them; toss the cubes, and let them sit for a couple of minutes to absorb the liquid. When softened, gather and press the cubes together, squeezing out any excess milk (discard, or save it for your cat!), and return the moistened bread to the bowl, tearing it into shreds.

Lift the rehydrated porcini pieces from the soaking liquid, squeeze firmly (saving all the liquid), and chop them into fine bits. Scatter the chopped porcini, scallions, basil, grated cheese, and salt on top of the torn bread; toss and mix together with your hands. Pour in the beaten eggs, and stir with a wooden spoon or mix with your hands to form a well-blended, fairly dense stuffing.

To prepare zucchini for stuffing: Trim off the ends, and slice the squashes in half lengthwise. Scoop out the central pulp and any seeds with a teaspoon or melon baller, so each half resembles a hollowed boat. Cut the long halves crosswise into serving-sized pieces, about 3 inches long (or shorter if you like).

To prepare bell peppers for stuffing: slice them lengthwise in half, starting at the stem, or in thirds if very large; trim away the stem and all seeds and fibers, forming cuplike pieces.

Pull out the stems of white mushrooms, leaving the hollow caps for stuffing.

Cut tomatoes in half crosswise, and squeeze out the seeds to make concavities for stuffing.

Peel the onions, and cut them crosswise into -inch-thick slices.

When all the vegetables are prepped and all but the onions are hollowed, put the pieces (except the onion slices) in a large bowl. Toss with the olive oil and teaspoon of the salt. Brush some of the oil on the onion slices, keeping them whole.

To stuff and bake the vegetables: b.u.t.ter the baking dishes, arrange a rack (or two, if necessary) in the oven, and heat to 425. Fill each vegetable piece with a tablespoon of stuffing, more or less. For zucchini, peppers, tomatoes, and mushrooms, fill the cavities with stuffing and arrange all the pieces in a baking dish, with a bit of s.p.a.ce between the pieces. Lay flat onion slices right in the dish, and mound a spoonful of stuffing on top of each slice.

When the dishes are filled (but not crowded), sprinkle all the vegetable pieces evenly with the grated cheese and remaining teaspoon salt. Sc.r.a.pe any olive oil left in the vegetable bowl over the stuffed pieces, and pour half of the reserved porcini-soaking liquid (leaving behind any gritty residue) into the bottom of each baking dish. Cover each dish with a tent of foil, pressing it against the dish sides and making sure it doesn't touch the stuffing or tops of the vegetables.

Bake 30 minutes, until the vegetables have started to soften and release juices, then remove the foil tents and bake until stuffing is crisped and brown, another 30 minutes or so. Switch the position of the dishes in the oven once or twice so all the pieces cook and color evenly. Serve hot from the oven, or let the vegetables cool and serve warm or at room temperature.

BREAD S SALAD WITH S SUMMER V VEGETABLES.

Condiggion Serves 6 Serves 6 The traditional Ligurian bread salad condiggion condiggion was the highlight of the meal we had in the Cinque Terre a few years ago (as I mentioned in the introduction to this chapter). With many textures from crunchy vegetables, vinegar-soaked bread, and tangy greens, and layers of flavor in the basil and olive-oil dressing-and a shower of dried tuna roe, was the highlight of the meal we had in the Cinque Terre a few years ago (as I mentioned in the introduction to this chapter). With many textures from crunchy vegetables, vinegar-soaked bread, and tangy greens, and layers of flavor in the basil and olive-oil dressing-and a shower of dried tuna roe, bottarga bottarga, providing a touch of salt and sea-this has become one of my favorite summer salads. It is exceptionally flavorful and refreshing, and a great accompaniment to the grilled meat and fish that I prepare in summer.

This salad is also open to variation, so use your favorite greens, vegetables, and even bread. I find that curly chicory, green and bitter, makes the best salad, but you can play with other seasonal greens you find in the market. And if you have some day-old whole-wheat or multigrain bread, that could be delicious here, too. Just make sure it is dry enough to be revitalized by the vinegar and dressing (if too fresh, it will crumble into mush at the bottom of the bowl).

In Liguria, where bottarga bottarga is a common flavoring element, it is essential to the salad. If you have some, by all means use it (and keep it wrapped well and frozen for long storage). Otherwise, chopped anchovies are a good final addition to the salad, if you yearn for that salty fish flavor, as I do. is a common flavoring element, it is essential to the salad. If you have some, by all means use it (and keep it wrapped well and frozen for long storage). Otherwise, chopped anchovies are a good final addition to the salad, if you yearn for that salty fish flavor, as I do.

- 4 or more thick slices country bread country bread, preferably a few days old and fairly dry - cup plus 1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 large red bell pepper red bell pepper, seeded and cut in thin strips - 1 small or of a large English cuc.u.mber English cuc.u.mber (about 8 ounces), peeled and sliced into -inch-thick rounds (about 8 ounces), peeled and sliced into -inch-thick rounds - 2 ripe tomatoes tomatoes (about 10 ounces), cored and cut into 1-inch wedges (about 10 ounces), cored and cut into 1-inch wedges - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup or so fresh basil fresh basil leaves (packed to measure), preferably small-leaf Genovese basil leaves (packed to measure), preferably small-leaf Genovese basil - A small head curly chicory curly chicory (also called frisee or curly endive), about 5 ounces, leaves trimmed, washed, and spun dry (also called frisee or curly endive), about 5 ounces, leaves trimmed, washed, and spun dry - A small piece bottarga bottarga, or 4 to 6 small anchovy fillets (optional) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor or blender Cut the bread slices, with crust on, into 1-inch pieces or cubes-you should have about 5 cups total-and put them in a large bowl. (If the pieces are not dry and almost crunchy, spread them on a baking sheet and heat it in a moderately low oven until the bread chunks are hard and crisp but not colored; let cool.) Whisk together the cup vinegar and 1 cup cold water, sprinkle it all over the bread, and keep tossing the pieces till they're evenly moistened. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over the cubes, and toss again. Put the sliced peppers, cuc.u.mber, and tomato in the bowl, and toss together with the bread.

To make the dressing: Put the garlic cloves and teaspoon of the salt in the food processor or blender, and pulse to chop the garlic, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl as needed. Pack in the basil leaves, and pulse until they are coa.r.s.ely chopped. With the motor running, pour in 5 tablespoons of the olive oil in a slow, steady stream to make an emulsified dressing. Drizzle the dressing over the bread and vegetables, and toss well.

In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Tear the chicory leaves into bite-sized pieces, and scatter them over the bread in the bowl. Drizzle the vinegar-oil dressing over the greens, and toss everything together well.