As a final (optional) touch, if you have bottarga bottarga, shave or grate about a teaspoon of the dried roe over the top of the salad. Or chop anchovy fillets into small bits and scatter them all over. Serve on a platter or on separate plates.

FRESH B BASIL: ALL K KINDS, ALL THE T TIMEIn Liguria, basil grows luxuriously in every garden and naturally plays an enormous role in the region's cuisine, as I discussed in the introduction. For this bread salad, where basil dressing is a major element, and for many other dishes in this chapter, I encourage you to find and use the freshest, most flavorful basil that you can. Though we don't have the good fortune of Ligurian cooks, most of whom can pluck sprigs of intensely flavored, small-leaved basil right from a window box or patio planter, we Americans now have more fresh basil available to us than ever before. Fine food and farmers' markets (in season) may have "sweet" basil for cooking in different varieties, colors, and even nuances of flavor. For these Ligurian dishes, look for a cla.s.sic pesto variety like small-to-medium-leaf Genovese basil. But other types will be fine, too. Try giant-leaved basil (it's great for wrapping around fish fillets and stuffing), or purple basil. Basils with distinctive aromas like lemon, mint, and anise are great to cook with; so is spicy Thai or Vietnamese basil.Even better, grow your own fresh basil, perhaps just a small pot on the windowsill. It will provide you with great flavor for many dishes, especially if you snip back the new shoots when they have four or five bright leaves. Just keep the plant from flowering and it will last for months. Garden centers and specialty seed companies sell more varieties of Italian basil than even I knew existed. But an ordinary sweet-basil plant like the ones I see in the supermarket will grow well with a bit of attention.And whether you grow your own or buy it, I recommend highly that in late summer and fall, or whenever fine fresh basil is abundant in your area, you should make a big batch of basil pesto in the food processor-just fresh herb leaves and extra-virgin olive oil, nothing else-and freeze it in ice-cube trays. Once it is frozen, pop the cubes out and wrap them in a bit of plastic, then seal the batch in giant ziplock bags. Protected from freezer burn, your basil-pesto cubes will provide bursts of fresh flavor in soups, tomato sauces, and vegetable pasta sauces all year long!

VEGETABLE S SOUP.

Zuppa di Verdure all'Agliata Makes 4 quarts, serving 12 or more Makes 4 quarts, serving 12 or more This soup exemplifies the Ligurian love of vegetables, which is one of the things I I love most about that cuisine. It demonstrates that with vegetables alone-there's no meat or meat stock in it-you can cook immensely flavorful and satisfying dishes. This is my re-creation of the heavenly vegetable soup served by my cousin Lidia Bosazzi when my parents took my brother Franco and me to Genova before we immigrated to America. With more kinds of vegetables than I could count-and that aroma of pungent garlic, which I have never forgotten-this is one of the most satisfying soups I know. love most about that cuisine. It demonstrates that with vegetables alone-there's no meat or meat stock in it-you can cook immensely flavorful and satisfying dishes. This is my re-creation of the heavenly vegetable soup served by my cousin Lidia Bosazzi when my parents took my brother Franco and me to Genova before we immigrated to America. With more kinds of vegetables than I could count-and that aroma of pungent garlic, which I have never forgotten-this is one of the most satisfying soups I know.

More than most dishes, soups accommodate variation and improvisation, and, as usual, I encourage you to experiment with this recipe. You don't need every vegetable in the exact amount listed for the zuppa zuppa-use what you have or like. And even the all-important garlic can be reduced (or increased) according to your family's taste. A subst.i.tution or addition that I recommend, in fact, is to use all the aromatic onion-family members that come in springtime-fresh spring onions and spring garlic with green shoots, scallions, baby leeks. They make every soup better.

At home I make this in large quant.i.ties, and that is how I share it with you. With all the work of washing and chopping vegetables, I like to have plenty of soup to enjoy right away and a couple of quarts in the freezer for a future meal. You can cut the recipe in half if you like, but I believe you go through your days feeling better when there's a delicious soup stored at home, ready to be enjoyed and to sustain you.

- 1 medium onion onion, cut in chunks - 8 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - cup or so fresh basil fresh basil leaves (packed to measure), preferably small-leaf Genovese basil leaves (packed to measure), preferably small-leaf Genovese basil - cup fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley leaves leaves - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - ounce dried porcini dried porcini (about cup loosely packed pieces), soaked in cup warm water (about cup loosely packed pieces), soaked in cup warm water - 1 cups finely chopped celery celery - 2 cups finely chopped carrots carrots - 2 cups chopped fresh ripe tomato tomato - 3 cups peeled and diced red potatoes red potatoes (about 1 pounds) (about 1 pounds) - 6 cups cold water water - 2 tablespoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 or 2 pieces (card-sized) outer rind of pecorino, Grana Padano pecorino, Grana Padano, or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional) (optional) - 1 small head curly chicory curly chicory (frisee), leaves washed and cut into bite-sized pieces (about 4 cups) (frisee), leaves washed and cut into bite-sized pieces (about 4 cups) - 5 ounces spinach spinach, leaves trimmed and rinsed (about 4 cups, loosely packed) - 2 cups green peas green peas, preferably fresh (from 2 pounds peas in the pod) or frozen peas - Freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving for serving - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed soup- or stockpot, 8-quart capacity or larger, with a cover Put the onion chunks, garlic cloves, basil, parsley, and cup of olive oil in the food-processor bowl, and chop to a chunky-textured pestata. pestata.

Pour the remaining cup olive oil into the soup pot, and set over medium-high heat. Sc.r.a.pe in the pestata pestata, and cook, stirring often, as it sizzles and dries, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, lift the rehydrated porcini from the soaking liquid (reserve the liquid) and chop into fine bits. When the pestata pestata just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, drop the porcini, the chopped celery, carrots, tomato, and diced potatoes into the pot, and stir well. Cook over high heat, stirring, until the potatoes become crusty and start to stick to the bottom. just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, drop the porcini, the chopped celery, carrots, tomato, and diced potatoes into the pot, and stir well. Cook over high heat, stirring, until the potatoes become crusty and start to stick to the bottom.

Pour in the cold water and the porcini soaking liquid (except for the sediment in the container). Stir in the salt, and heat the water to a vigorous bubble. Drop in the cheese rind (if you have a piece or two), partially cover the pot, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady bubbling.

Cook 45 minutes to an hour-until the vegetables begin to break down-and add the chicory, spinach, and peas. Return to a bubbling boil, and cook 30 minutes or longer, until the broth is concentrated and flavorful and the total volume has reduced by about a quarter. (You can serve all or some of the soup now. Let the remainder cool, then refrigerate or freeze.) To serve: Ladle the simmering soup into warm bowls. Sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of freshly grated cheese over each portion, and finish with a swirl of excellent olive oil. Pa.s.s more grated cheese at the table.

MAKING Y YOUR O OWN P PESTOSThe name "pesto" comes from the verb pestare pestare, which means "to pound" or "to crush." As Italian cooks have long known, there are infinite possibilities when fresh herbs, spices, vegetables, nuts, fruits, and cheeses are pounded in a mortar-or, with today's kitchen technology, processed at high speed-into a smooth, savory sauce. So, as you read the recipe for cla.s.sic pesto alla Genovese pesto alla Genovese, let your imagination go; think of all of your favorite flavors and how you can make your own pesto.The cardinal rule for all pestos is to use the freshest herbs, the best extra-virgin olive oil, the perfect cheese. And, to experience the freshness and intensity of the herbs, don't alter their qualities by cooking them. So, when dressing pasta with an aromatic pesto, follow the basic procedures in the recipe for Trenette Trenette with Pesto Genova-Style. Quickly drain the pasta and toss it in a warm bowl or pan with the pesto (thinned with a bit of hot water from the pasta cooking pot if necessary) until all of the pasta is coated. Finish with a drizzle of oil and a sprinkle of grated cheese. with Pesto Genova-Style. Quickly drain the pasta and toss it in a warm bowl or pan with the pesto (thinned with a bit of hot water from the pasta cooking pot if necessary) until all of the pasta is coated. Finish with a drizzle of oil and a sprinkle of grated cheese.

GERMAN P POTATO S SALAD.

Insalata di Patate alla Tedesca Serves 6 Serves 6 This tangy, textured potato salad is much appreciated in Liguria, and it has become a favorite of mine. I like it best served warm-when the freshly cooked potatoes have just been tossed in the hot bacon-and-mustard dressing-though it is also delicious at room temperature, on a buffet or picnic table.

As the name implies (and the slightly Nordic ingredients also suggest), this salad came to Liguria from somewhere else. Though I don't know know the precise origins, the Riviera Ligure has for centuries lured writers, composers, poets, and artists from other parts of Europe. Perhaps one of these creative types made this salad during a Ligurian sojourn. Certainly I have no objection that such a tasty dish, even if introduced by an outsider, took root in Liguria and became part of the regional cuisine. the precise origins, the Riviera Ligure has for centuries lured writers, composers, poets, and artists from other parts of Europe. Perhaps one of these creative types made this salad during a Ligurian sojourn. Certainly I have no objection that such a tasty dish, even if introduced by an outsider, took root in Liguria and became part of the regional cuisine.

- 2 pounds red potatoes red potatoes - 1 cup finely chopped scallions scallions - cup sweet pickles sweet pickles (about 4 ounces), coa.r.s.ely chopped (about 4 ounces), coa.r.s.ely chopped - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 ounces slab bacon slab bacon, cut in -inch pieces - 3 tablespoons German-style mustard German-style mustard - cup red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 10-inch diameter; a large bowl for dressing, tossing, and serving Put the whole, unpeeled potatoes into a pot with 2 to 3 quarts cold water, enough to cover them by a couple of inches. Bring the water to a gentle boil, and cook the potatoes until a knife blade pierces them easily to the center, but don't let them overcook, split, or get mushy.

When done, drain the potatoes in a colander, peel them as soon as they're cool enough to handle, and slice into 1-inch cubes. Immediately toss the warm cubes in a bowl with the chopped scallions and pickles and 1 teaspoon salt.

Meanwhile, put the olive oil and bacon pieces in the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until the bacon has rendered its fat and starts to crisp, 4 minutes or so. Whisk in the mustard and vinegar, and heat to a boil. Continue whisking until the dressing is smooth and emulsified, then pour it over the warm potatoes and toss. Sprinkle over it the chopped parsley, grinds of black pepper, and remaining teaspoon of salt. Toss well, and serve right away.

SPINACH G GENOVA-STYLE.

Spinaci alla Genovese Serves 6 Serves 6 Vegetables prepared alla Genovese alla Genovese are among my favorite Ligurian dishes, made with the freshest produce and brilliantly flavored. I particularly love this saute of spinach with anchovies, raisins, and pine nuts (and I've read that spinach prepared in this manner was one of Michelangelo's favorite dishes, too). are among my favorite Ligurian dishes, made with the freshest produce and brilliantly flavored. I particularly love this saute of spinach with anchovies, raisins, and pine nuts (and I've read that spinach prepared in this manner was one of Michelangelo's favorite dishes, too).

Each of the components makes a distinct contribution: The anchovies lend complexity and saltiness. The raisins bring sweetness and counterbalance the anchovies. (I give you the amounts of each that I like, but find your own balance of flavors by increasing or decreasing either.) Finally, pine nuts add a mellow, pleasing textural contrast.

You can apply this trio of tastes to other vegetables; escarole, broccoli, cauliflower, and Swiss chard will all be delicious in such a preparation.

Spinaci alla Genovese is wonderful served family-style as a dinner vegetable, or as a colorful bed for grilled chicken breast or fish. Should you have any leftovers, layer the spinach between slices of crusty bread for an unusual but absolutely delicious sandwich. is wonderful served family-style as a dinner vegetable, or as a colorful bed for grilled chicken breast or fish. Should you have any leftovers, layer the spinach between slices of crusty bread for an unusual but absolutely delicious sandwich.

- cup golden raisins golden raisins (preferably plump and moist) (preferably plump and moist) - 2 pounds tender spinach spinach (or about 4 pounds untrimmed bunch spinach), stems removed and washed well (or about 4 pounds untrimmed bunch spinach), stems removed and washed well - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 2 anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, finely chopped (about 1 teaspoon) - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - cup pine nuts pine nuts, toasted RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saute pan or high-sided skillet, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover If the raisins are dry, soak them in a small bowl in hot water to cover until plump and softened, about 10 minutes. Wash and drain the spinach just before you cook it, so there's still some water on the leaves.

Pour the olive oil into the pan, set it over medium-high heat, and toss in the crushed garlic cloves. Cook and stir the garlic until it begins to sizzle, then drop in the chopped anchovies and cook, stirring them in the oil for a minute or two, until they melt.

Fill the pan with spinach, heaping it in by handfuls and letting it wilt down a bit before adding more. Once all the spinach is in the pan, scatter the raisins on top (and pour in any remaining soaking water, if you plumped them); sprinkle over them the salt and grated nutmeg. Toss the spinach leaves over and over with tongs, distributing the raisins and seasonings, then cover the pan and cook for a couple of minutes, until all the spinach has wilted and released its liquid.

Remove the cover, and cook over high heat, stirring, tossing the spinach, and evaporating the water. When the bottom of the pan is dry, toss in the pine nuts and cook for a few moments, then remove the skillet from the heat and serve the spinach right away.

GREEN B BEANS G GENOVA-STYLE.

f.a.giolini alla Genovese Serves 6 Serves 6 Here's another example of a simple vegetable saute with brilliant Genovese touches. As in the preceding spinach recipe, anchovies provide salty savor to the green beans, and slivers of garlic and lemon bring additional flavor notes. Great as a vegetable side dish anytime, these beautiful beans make a particularly delicious accompaniment to grilled steak or lamb chops.

- 1 pounds fresh green beans green beans - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, sliced cloves, sliced - lemon lemon, sliced in thin -moon slices - 6 small anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, finely chopped (about 1 tablespoon) - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and prepare a large bowl with ice and water to chill the beans after you cook them. Trim both ends of the beans and remove the strings, if they have them. Toss all the beans into the boiling water, and cook until tender but not mushy, about 7 minutes. Lift the beans from the cooking water, and drop them into the ice bath to set their color.

When cool, drain the beans, and dry them on towels. One by one, split the beans open along the seam with your fingernail or a paring knife, and separate each into two long halves, with the small seeds exposed. Open all the beans this way.

Pour the olive oil into the pan, drop in the b.u.t.ter, and set over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter is melted, scatter in the garlic slices and get them sizzling, scatter in the lemon slices, and drop in the chopped anchovies. Cook and stir for a couple of minutes, until the anchovies melt into the oil, then toss all the split beans into the pan. Season with the salt, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, tossing the beans continuously in the flavorful oil, until they're thoroughly coated and hot. Serve immediately.

TRENETTE WITH P PESTO G GENOVA-STYLE.

Trenette con Pesto alla Genovese Serves 6 Serves 6 When I say the word "pesto" to people in America (or anywhere outside Italy), I know they are thinking of pesto alla Genovese pesto alla Genovese, with its lush green color and intense perfume of fresh basil leaves. Indeed, though there are countless fresh sauces that are also termed "pesto" in Italian cuisine, it seems that pasta with basil-and-pine-nut pesto is so well known that it might as well be the national Italian dish!

Traditionally, long, flat trenette trenette or shorter twisted or shorter twisted trofie trofie is the pasta used here, though even spaghetti is great with the pesto. For the most authentic flavor, use a sweet, small-leaved Genovese basil for the pesto-perhaps you can find it at a farmers' market in summer, or grow it yourself. Large basil will be delicious, too. Of course, use the best extra-virgin olive oil available, in the pesto and on the pasta, preferably pressed from the marvelous is the pasta used here, though even spaghetti is great with the pesto. For the most authentic flavor, use a sweet, small-leaved Genovese basil for the pesto-perhaps you can find it at a farmers' market in summer, or grow it yourself. Large basil will be delicious, too. Of course, use the best extra-virgin olive oil available, in the pesto and on the pasta, preferably pressed from the marvelous taggiasca taggiasca olives of Liguria. olives of Liguria.

- FOR THE PESTO - 3 cups fresh basil fresh basil leaves (firmly packed to measure), preferably small-leaf Genovese basil leaves (firmly packed to measure), preferably small-leaf Genovese basil - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil (preferably Ligurian), plus more for covering (preferably Ligurian), plus more for covering - cup pine nuts pine nuts, toasted - 2 tablespoons grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 2 tablespoons grated pecorino pecorino - FOR THE PASTA - Kosher salt for the pasta pot for the pasta pot - pound or so red potatoes red potatoes, peeled, cut in -inch chunks - pound or so fresh green beans green beans, ends trimmed, cut in 2-inch pieces - 1 pound trenette trenette or or trofie trofie or spaghetti or spaghetti - cup grated pecorino pecorino - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a large pot for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, or a large serving bowl, for tossing pasta, vegetables, and pesto together To make the pesto: Put all of the basil, the garlic cloves, salt, and olive oil in the food-processor bowl. Process 10 to 15 seconds-stopping once to sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl-to form a coa.r.s.e paste.

Dump in the pine nuts, and process another 10 seconds or more (sc.r.a.ping down the bowl once or twice), creating a uniformly smooth bright-green paste. Add the grated cheeses to the bowl, and pulse a few times just to blend in. The pesto should be thick yet flowing; if it's too firm, blend in olive oil, a spoonful at a time, to loosen it.

Sc.r.a.pe the pesto into a small bowl or container, and pour a thin film of olive oil over the top surface to prevent it from discoloring. It can stay at room temperature for a couple of hours before being used. For longer keeping, lay plastic wrap on the surface of the pesto, seal the container, and refrigerate or freeze. Let the pesto return to room temperature before using.

To make the pasta: Bring salted water to a boil in the large pot (at least 6 quarts, with 1 tablespoon kosher salt). Drop in the potato chunks, stir, and cook them for 10 minutes, then add the green beans. Cook the beans and potatoes for another 10 minutes and then add the pasta to the pot and cook 5 minutes, until the trenette trenette is is al dente. al dente.

Set the large skillet over very low heat, just to warm it, or warm the serving bowl, whichever you'll use for dressing the pasta. Sc.r.a.pe the pesto into the pan or bowl, and loosen it with a bit of the pasta boiling water (don't cook the pesto, just warm it).

When the vegetables are tender and the pasta is al dente al dente, lift everything from the pot with a spider and tongs, drain briefly, and drop into the skillet or bowl. (If you prefer, drain the pasta and vegetables into a colander, being sure to reserve a cup or so of pasta cooking water before you pour it out.) Toss pasta, vegetables, and pesto together well-moisten with more pasta water if needed-then sprinkle the grated cheeses over, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

TUNA G GENOVA-STYLE.

Tonno alla Genovese Serves 6 Serves 6 Thick tuna steaks are not just for grilling. The stovetop technique here is quick and convenient. You use one big skillet for browning the fish steaks, make a simple (yet complex-tasting) sauce, and put the two together for a final brief braise that marries the flavors perfectly. This is the true alla Genovese alla Genovese method. method.

If you prefer grilling to pan-cooking, however, you can certainly omit the first step of flouring and frying the steaks, and make the sauce separately. Use a smaller saucepan in this case, preparing the sauce as in the recipe, starting with the saute of garlic, anchovies, and porcini in 2 tablespoons olive oil. (Use the other 3 tablespoons olive oil, and teaspoon salt, to season the fish before grilling.) One advantage of a separate sauce is that it can be finished ahead of time, so when your guests arrive you only have to fire up the stove and cook the fish. And you'll find it delicious with ba.s.s, codfish, or salmon as well as tuna. In fact, this sauce is so good, I suggest you have a good slab of focaccia to mop up the pan.

- 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 6 tuna tuna steaks, about 6 to 8 ounces each, cut 1 inch or thicker steaks, about 6 to 8 ounces each, cut 1 inch or thicker - cup or so all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, spread in a plate for dredging - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed - ounce dried porcini dried porcini (about cup loosely packed pieces), soaked in 1 cup warm water (about cup loosely packed pieces), soaked in 1 cup warm water - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 2 small anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped (about 1 teaspoon) - 1 cups dry white wine dry white wine - 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice - 3 sprigs fresh thyme fresh thyme - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter (or extra-virgin olive oil) (or extra-virgin olive oil) - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley fresh parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Sprinkle salt all over the tuna steaks, using about teaspoon salt in all. Dredge each steak in the flour, coating both sides, and shake off the excess. Pour 4 tablespoons of the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, lay all the tuna in the pan, and saute on the first side for about 1 minute, just until browned. Flip the steaks over, and brown the second side, another minute or so, then take the pan off the heat. Transfer the tuna to a platter, and keep in a warm place while you make the sauce.

Lift the rehydrated porcini pieces from the soaking water (reserve it), and chop them fine. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, toss in the garlic cloves, then stir in the chopped anchovy and porcini. Cook and stir until everything is sizzling nicely, then pour in the white wine, lemon juice, and porcini water (leaving behind any sediment). Add the thyme sprigs, and season with the remaining salt. Bring the sauce to a boil, and cook until reduced by about half.

When the sauce has thickened to a consistency you like, arrange the tuna steaks in the skillet again, and pour in any juices from the platter. Heat for a minute in the bubbling sauce, then turn the steaks over and cook briefly on the second side. The tuna should still be rare at this point; if you prefer your steaks better done, simply let them cook in the sauce longer.

Just before serving, drop the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter (or extra-virgin olive oil, if you prefer) into the pan, between the steaks, and stir it into the sauce as a final enrichment. Turn off the heat, and stir in the parsley. Serve the steaks on dinner plates, spooning sauce over them, or arrange them on a serving platter, with the sauce on top.

Laundry day in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre MEAT S SAUCE G GENOVA-STYLE.

Sugo alla Genovese Serves 6 or more Serves 6 or more Sugo is a word that means "sauce," or sometimes "juice," but here it tells only part of the story. is a word that means "sauce," or sometimes "juice," but here it tells only part of the story. Sugo alla Genovese Sugo alla Genovese is a traditional braised-meat dish that gives you a big pot filled with both a tender, succulent beef roast and a rich, meaty tomato sauce. Like others of my favorite braises (such as Braised Leg of Lamb in the Abruzzo chapter), it yields a bounty of sauce, enough to dress pasta as a first course and to serve as gravy on the sliced meat for a main course. is a traditional braised-meat dish that gives you a big pot filled with both a tender, succulent beef roast and a rich, meaty tomato sauce. Like others of my favorite braises (such as Braised Leg of Lamb in the Abruzzo chapter), it yields a bounty of sauce, enough to dress pasta as a first course and to serve as gravy on the sliced meat for a main course.

What makes this sugo sugo distinctively distinctively alla Genovese alla Genovese is an unusual step in the procedure. After you have caramelized the aromatic vegetables and herbs and browned the meat, you begin building the sauce with red wine. Then you set the meat aside and puree the seasonings with pine nuts to create a complex thickened base for the sauce, reminiscent of is an unusual step in the procedure. After you have caramelized the aromatic vegetables and herbs and browned the meat, you begin building the sauce with red wine. Then you set the meat aside and puree the seasonings with pine nuts to create a complex thickened base for the sauce, reminiscent of pesto alla Genovese. pesto alla Genovese. This then goes back in the pan, and everything cooks together slowly for hours, resulting in a This then goes back in the pan, and everything cooks together slowly for hours, resulting in a sugo sugo that is absolutely delicious and certainly unique. that is absolutely delicious and certainly unique.

- cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 2 cups chopped onions onions - ounce dried porcini dried porcini (about cup loosely packed pieces) (about cup loosely packed pieces) - 8 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary fresh rosemary leaves, stripped from the stem leaves, stripped from the stem - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more to taste - A 4-to-5-pound boneless beef shoulder roast beef shoulder roast (preferably a "top blade" or "top chuck shoulder" roast) (preferably a "top blade" or "top chuck shoulder" roast) - cup or so all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging for dredging - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 2 cups dry red wine dry red wine - cup pine nuts pine nuts, toasted - 2 cups hot beef, poultry, or vegetable broth beef, poultry, or vegetable broth, plus more as needed - 6 cups (two 28-ounce cans) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano for the table for the table RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saucepan or braising pan, preferably just a bit bigger than the roast, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, round or oval, with a cover; a food processor Pour the olive oil into the saucepan, set it over medium-high heat, toss in the garlic cloves, and, as they start to sizzle, stir in the onions. Heat the onions to sizzling, stirring occasionally, then scatter the porcini, sage, and rosemary in the pan, season with 1 teaspoon of salt, and cook until the onions soften and begin to caramelize, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim the beef of fat, and sprinkle all over with salt, using another teaspoon in all. Spread the flour on a plate, and dredge the roast thoroughly, coating all surfaces, then shake off any excess.

When the onions are wilted, push the sauteed seasoning to one side of the pan, drop the b.u.t.ter in the clear pan bottom, and, when it has melted, lay in the roast. Brown it well, turning it every few minutes to sear another surface, until it is nicely colored all over, 10 minutes or so. Pour the red wine into the pan, stir the seasonings all around the beef, and let the wine come to a vigorous boil. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half, then turn off the heat.

Remove the meat to a tray or platter. Transfer the cooked onions, seasonings, and reduced wine, sc.r.a.ping up all the juices, to the bowl of the food processor. Add the pine nuts and process for a minute or more, sc.r.a.ping down the sides of the bowl, until everything is pureed into a smooth, thick sauce base.

Sc.r.a.pe the base back into the saucepan; slosh out the food-processor bowl with some of the hot stock, and stir that in, along with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Heat the pan over medium heat, stir in the tomatoes, slosh out the tomato containers with the rest of the hot stock, and stir that in, too.

When the liquids are well mixed, lay the meat back in the pan, along with any meat juices. If necessary, add more stock so that the roast is nearly totally submerged in sauce.

Still over moderate heat, bring the sauce to a slow boil, then cover the pan tightly and lower the heat, checking after a few minutes to see that the sauce is just at a slow, gently bubbling simmer. Cook the beef, fully covered, for 2 to 3 hours, occasionally stirring the sauce to make sure that the pine nuts are not collecting on the bottom of the pan, and that the level of the sauce is barely reducing. Rotate the roast once or twice in the liquid, so all surfaces cook covered by sauce for some of the time.

When the meat is tender enough that a kitchen fork pierces it easily and pulls out with no resistance, turn off the heat. With st.u.r.dy tongs or spatulas, lift the beef from the pan and set it on a platter in a warm place. Skim the fat from the surface of the sauce, then bring it back to a boil and cook until reduced by about half, stirring occasionally. You should have 3 to 4 cups of fairly thick sauce.

To serve the beef: Slice it crosswise into -inch-thick slices, and arrange them, fanned out or overlapping, on a warm platter. Moisten the slices with spoonfuls of hot sauce, and pa.s.s more sauce at the table.

If you have cooked the beef several hours or the day before serving, you can let the meat cool in the pan, in the full amount of braising sauce. Shortly before serving, remove the meat, then skim and reduce the sauce. Slice the beef while it is cool (it is easier this way), and reheat the slices slowly in a wide skillet with some of the hot, thickened sauce.

To serve a primo primo with with sugo alla Genovese: sugo alla Genovese: Put 2 cups of sauce (for a pound of pasta) into a big skillet, and heat to a simmer while the pasta cooks. Drop the drained Put 2 cups of sauce (for a pound of pasta) into a big skillet, and heat to a simmer while the pasta cooks. Drop the drained al dente al dente pasta into the sauce, and toss until coated, then shut off the heat, and toss with grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately in warm bowls. pasta into the sauce, and toss until coated, then shut off the heat, and toss with grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

NOT Y YOUR T TRADITIONAL C CIMAThe next recipe is for a wonderful stuffed breast of veal, but if If you can't find a suitable cut of veal, you can make a lovely and tasty facsimile of my cima alla Genovese cima alla Genovese using boneless turkey breast and following the basic procedures in the recipe for veal. The main difference is that a turkey breast of 5 pounds or more will need to be split into its two halves, each of which you will b.u.t.terfly and pound with a mallet to a flat sheet; then you will put these together, slightly overlapping, to make a single slab big enough to wrap around the frittata stuffing. (Turkey b.r.e.a.s.t.s are sometimes separated into boneless halves before being packaged and sold; you will need two 2-to-3-pound breast pieces in that case.) Depending on how big the flattened turkey sheet is, you may need more or less frittata and hard-cooked eggs than given here. using boneless turkey breast and following the basic procedures in the recipe for veal. The main difference is that a turkey breast of 5 pounds or more will need to be split into its two halves, each of which you will b.u.t.terfly and pound with a mallet to a flat sheet; then you will put these together, slightly overlapping, to make a single slab big enough to wrap around the frittata stuffing. (Turkey b.r.e.a.s.t.s are sometimes separated into boneless halves before being packaged and sold; you will need two 2-to-3-pound breast pieces in that case.) Depending on how big the flattened turkey sheet is, you may need more or less frittata and hard-cooked eggs than given here.

I also recommend that you spread out the cheesecloth first and form and fill the meat slab on top of the cloth. Wrap the stuffing in the turkey, forming a loaf shape, then roll this up tightly inside the cloth, to secure the meat around the stuffing. Tie the ends and the middle of the cloth-covered roll with twine, and poach it just as you would a veal roll-but only for 1 hour, because the turkey will cook much faster. Drain and cool the stuffed turkey under weights; slice and serve as detailed in the recipe.

VEAL S STUFFED WITH A M A MOSAIC OF V VEGETABLES.

Cima alla Genovese con Salsa Verde Serves 6 to 8 Serves 6 to 8 Stuffed veal breast can be found in many regions, but the Genovese preparation, cima alla Genovese cima alla Genovese, is one of the most distinctive and delicious. It is one of my favorite Ligurian dishes, and whenever I am in Genova I seek it out at the local restaurants. Traditionally, it is a specialty of late spring and summer, because in the natural cycle, calves are mostly birthed in early spring, and the veal will be most tender within the next few months. Appropriately for a summer dish, cima alla Genovese cima alla Genovese is served at room temperature, accompanied by fresh is served at room temperature, accompanied by fresh salsa verde. salsa verde.

Here, though, I give you my home version of cima cima, one that I prepare all year around, whenever I want something special (and convenient) to delight lots of people. Because veal breast of appropriate size can be hard to find, I use veal shoulder and sometimes turkey breast, b.u.t.terflied and flattened. I wrap the meat around a colorful filling: a big frittata with a medley of vegetables and a row of hard-cooked eggs. Poached in a log shape, the cima cima cools before it is sliced for serving. It is still always exciting for me (and will be for you) as each slice is revealed, the filling ingredients forming a unique mosaic within a frame of moist, tender meat. cools before it is sliced for serving. It is still always exciting for me (and will be for you) as each slice is revealed, the filling ingredients forming a unique mosaic within a frame of moist, tender meat.

The convenience of cima cima I also love. I can a.s.semble the stuffed veal the night before, cook it early in the morning, and let it rest. Uncut, the roll keeps well (even for several days) and can be served whenever needed, without further cooking. In summer, it makes a fine I also love. I can a.s.semble the stuffed veal the night before, cook it early in the morning, and let it rest. Uncut, the roll keeps well (even for several days) and can be served whenever needed, without further cooking. In summer, it makes a fine al fresco al fresco lunch or dinner, or a picnic centerpiece. At holiday times, nothing is more beautiful on a buffet. And when there are guests in the house, I serve it at dinner and leave the rest as an elegant anytime snack. lunch or dinner, or a picnic centerpiece. At holiday times, nothing is more beautiful on a buffet. And when there are guests in the house, I serve it at dinner and leave the rest as an elegant anytime snack.

- A 4-to-5-pound boneless veal shoulder roast veal shoulder roast - FOR THE STUFFING - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 cups onions onions sliced in -inch-thick half-moons sliced in -inch-thick half-moons - 1 cup carrot carrot matchsticks 3 inches long and inch thick matchsticks 3 inches long and inch thick - 2 cups zucchini zucchini matchsticks 3 inches long and inch thick matchsticks 3 inches long and inch thick - 1 cup red bell pepper red bell pepper strips 3 inches long and inch thick strips 3 inches long and inch thick - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper - 1 cup frozen peas peas, thawed - 4 cups loosely packed tender spinach spinach leaves leaves - 6 large eggs eggs for the frittata for the frittata - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - cup milk milk - 5 or 6 large eggs eggs, hard-cooked and peeled - FOR THE POACHING POT - 1 medium onion onion, cut in chunks - 1 medium carrot carrot, cut in chunks - 1 medium stalk celery celery, cut in chunks - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - cup kosher salt kosher salt - FOR SERVING - 1 cups Salsa Verde Salsa Verde RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A sharp, long-bladed knife for b.u.t.terflying the meat; a meat mallet; a heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter; kitchen twine; cheesecloth sheet, 3 feet long and 2 feet wide, double thickness; a wide, heavy saucepan, preferably an oval-shaped cast-iron French oven, 5-to-7-quart capacity, with a cover To prepare the veal: Cut the strings or netting if the roast is tied (as it usually is), and lay out the meat in a slab. Trim off excess fat on both sides and any membranes or silver skin that cover the muscles. Turn the slab so the inside (where bones have been removed) faces up-it will be a rough rectangle of uneven thickness. The next step, b.u.t.terflying, will enlarge and even out the slab to a nearly square sheet of meat of even thinness.

With a long, sharp knife, slice into the thickest part of the meat, cutting from the middle of the slab toward the edge almost all the way through almost all the way through-then open up the flap you've created, like opening a book. Pound the b.u.t.terflied section of meat to even it out. In the same way, b.u.t.terfly portions of meat on other parts of the slab to spread and thin the veal, pounding each section after you slice and unfold it. b.u.t.terfly small mounds of thick muscle where necessary to thin it, or-if a hole opens in the sheet-b.u.t.terfly an adjacent portion of meat and use the flap to cover the hole. Continue the gradual b.u.t.terflying until the veal is about 16 inches on the long sides and about 12 inches on the short edges-roughly square and about inch thick. Cover the veal with plastic wrap while you prepare the stuffing frittata.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set over medium-high heat. Toss in the sliced onions and carrot matchsticks; stir and cook for a couple of minutes, until sizzling, then toss in the zucchini and red-pepper strips. Sprinkle on teaspoon of salt and several grinds of black pepper, and cook, stirring and tossing, for 5 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly caramelized but still al dente. al dente. Scatter in the peas and the spinach leaves, turning them over with the other vegetables until they start to wilt and release their liquid. Continue to cook the vegetables, stirring frequently, until the excess water in the pan has evaporated. Scatter in the peas and the spinach leaves, turning them over with the other vegetables until they start to wilt and release their liquid. Continue to cook the vegetables, stirring frequently, until the excess water in the pan has evaporated.

Meanwhile, beat the raw eggs with teaspoon salt and teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, then whisk in the grated cheese and milk. When the spinach is cooked and dry, pour the egg mixture into the skillet. Cook, turning and scrambling the eggs with the vegetables, until the curds are set but still a bit wet and glistening. Remove the pan from the heat, and let cool briefly.

Uncover the flattened veal sheet, and season the top with the remaining teaspoon of salt. Spread the vegetable frittata in an even mound the length of the veal, leaving several inches of the meat uncovered on both long sides, and an inch or so on the ends, to form flaps. Arrange the frittata so the vegetable sticks are distributed evenly and somewhat aligned lengthwise to give a mosaic effect when you slice the cooked roll. Set the hard-boiled eggs in a line nestled in the vegetable frittata. Again, for the prettiest cross-section, align the eggs end to end. (If you can't fit in all the hard-cooked eggs, enjoy any extras in another dish!) Fold one long flap of the veal over the filling, then the other, enclosing the eggs in a long oval. Starting at one end, tie the veal closed with loops of twine, s.p.a.ced about 3 inches apart: use one long piece of twine to form a connected series of loops, or make several tight loops, to secure the roll all along its length. Tuck the open ends of the veal against the roll, and tie another length of twine lengthwise around it, so it is completely closed.

Spread out the cheesecloth, set the meat on one of the short edges, and roll it up tightly in the cloth. Twist the cloth on each end of the roll-like a candy wrapper, tightening it up against the meat-and secure the twisted ends with twine. (If there's lots of excess cheesecloth on the ends, cut it off.) Finally, tie three or four tight loops around the cloth-wrapped roll along its length, further compacting and securing it.

To poach the veal: Drop the chunks of onion, carrot, and celery, the bay leaves, and the cup salt in the big saucepan, and set the tied roll on top. Pour in enough cold water to submerge the meat completely, cover the pot, and heat the poaching liquid to a gentle boil. Adjust the heat to maintain a steady, gentle bubbling, and let the veal cook, tightly covered, for 2 hours. The meat should remain completely covered while it cooks gently. Rotate the roll carefully in the pot once or twice, add water if necessary, and adjust the heat as needed.

Turn off the heat after 2 hours, and lift the roll out of the poaching liquid (use tongs to grasp the twisted ends). Let the water drain off, then set the veal on a wide sheet pan or cutting board on an even surface. Place another sheet pan on top of the meat, and weight it down with your big saucepan (you can discard the poaching liquid first) or heavy cans or other objects. Center the weights atop the veal roll so it is evenly compacted.

Keep the veal pressed for an hour or longer, until it cools to room temperature. Remove the weights, and pour off any liquid that has collected in the pan. Cut off the outer twine, and carefully unwrap the cheesecloth from around the meat; snip the inner loops of twine and remove it all. Transfer the veal to a cutting board, taking care to keep it intact.

When you're ready to serve, slice the veal crosswise with a sharp knife, first cutting off one of the meaty end pieces (tomorrow's treat!), until you expose the colorful mosaic of stuffing. Slice as many pieces of cima cima as you'll serve-I like them about inch thick-and arrange them overlapping on a platter. Or present individual portions, a slice or two on each plate, with spoonfuls of as you'll serve-I like them about inch thick-and arrange them overlapping on a platter. Or present individual portions, a slice or two on each plate, with spoonfuls of Salsa Verde Salsa Verde alongside. Have bowls or goblets of alongside. Have bowls or goblets of Salsa Verde Salsa Verde at the table, too. at the table, too.

DESSERTS WITH A ALMONDSIn Liguria, nuts are used in all kinds of dishes: pestos, condiments, vegetable dishes, braises, and stews. Certainly desserts are no exception, as exemplified by these two wonderful baked treats-a b.u.t.tery chocolate-chip cake, and a large jam-filled tart-that get great taste and texture from almonds. Indeed, almonds are incorporated in two forms: sliced almonds provide crunch to each mouthful, and almond flour lends flavor and pleasing texture to the sweet cake and tart dough.

Almond flour (or almond meal) may not be readily available, so buy or order it ahead of time from a specialty-food vendor. If you like, you can make your almond flour from blanched, skinless whole almonds in a food processor (or use unblanched whole almonds to make almond meal, which is slightly coa.r.s.er and darker). Process the almonds until they become a flour.

These are both versatile sweets, and can be enjoyed plain or fancy. Dust them with confectioners' sugar, cut them in small pieces, and pile them (neatly) on a platter for a buffet or to bring to a picnic, potluck, or bake sale. For more formal occasions, either dessert will be fabulous sliced in wedges and flanked with whipped cream, ice cream, or zabaglione. zabaglione. (These both keep well for several days, or can be frozen successfully. When company comes unexpectedly, just pop the cake or tart in a hot oven and it comes back as if just baked.) (These both keep well for several days, or can be frozen successfully. When company comes unexpectedly, just pop the cake or tart in a hot oven and it comes back as if just baked.) ALMOND T TORTA WITH C CHOCOLATE C CHIPS.

Torta di Mandorle Makes a 10-inch cake, serving 10 or more Makes a 10-inch cake, serving 10 or more - 10 ounces (2 sticks) soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, plus more for the pan - 1 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan - teaspoon baking powder baking powder - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup sugar sugar - 5 large eggs eggs - Finely grated zest of 1 lemon lemon (about 2 teaspoons) (about 2 teaspoons) - 1 teaspoon pure almond extract almond extract - 2 cups almond flour almond flour or or almond meal almond meal - 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips semisweet chocolate chips - cup sliced blanched almonds almonds, lightly toasted RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 10-inch springform pan; an electric mixer with paddle attachment b.u.t.ter and flour the bottom and sides of the springform pan. Arrange a rack in the center of the oven, and heat to 350. Sift together the all-purpose flour, baking powder, and salt.

In the mixer, cream the b.u.t.ter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. On medium speed, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing each in thoroughly before adding the next; sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl as needed. Beat in the lemon zest and almond extract, then raise the speed to high and beat the batter until very light, a minute or more.

On low speed, mix in half of the sifted flour mixture, beating just until it is incorporated; beat in half the almond flour. Sc.r.a.pe the bowl, and mix in the remaining all-purpose flour and remaining almond flour. Beat briefly on medium to a smooth batter, then, again on low speed, mix in the chocolate chips just until evenly distributed.

Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan, and spread it in an even layer. Scatter the sliced almonds all over the top. Bake the torta torta for 45 minutes-rotating the pan halfway through the baking time-or until the cake is golden brown on top and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. for 45 minutes-rotating the pan halfway through the baking time-or until the cake is golden brown on top and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cool the cake in the pan for about 10 minutes on a wire rack. Run the blade of a paring knife around the edge of the cake, then open the spring and remove the side ring. Cool the cake completely before serving. Cut it in wedges, and dust with confectioners' sugar or accompany with whipped cream, ice cream, or zabaglione. zabaglione.

CHERRY J JAM T TART.

Torta di Pasta Frolla alla Genovese Makes a 10-by-15-inch tart, serving 10 or more Makes a 10-by-15-inch tart, serving 10 or more - 11 ounces b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter (2 sticks), plus more for the pan (2 sticks), plus more for the pan - 1 cup sugar sugar - 2 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more for handling the dough - 2 cups almond flour almond flour or or almond meal almond meal - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup dried cherries dried cherries - 2 cups (or a bit more) chunky cherry preserves cherry preserves (about 24 ounces in jars) (about 24 ounces in jars) - cup sliced blanched almonds almonds, lightly toasted RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: An electric mixer with paddle attachment; a 10-by-15-inch jelly-roll pan; cookie cutters or a pastry wheel To make the tart dough: Cream the b.u.t.ter and sugar in the mixer bowl on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Add the flours and salt to the bowl, and beat on low speed just until the dry ingredients are incorporated and a cohesive dough forms.

Sc.r.a.pe the dough out of the bowl onto a work surface, and knead a few times, until it comes together in a ball. Divide into two pieces-a larger piece of two-thirds of the dough, and a small piece of a third of the dough. Press both pieces into flat rectangles, and wrap them well in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 2 hours (or for a day) before rolling; freeze for longer keeping.

When you are ready to bake the tart, arrange a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350. b.u.t.ter the bottom and sides of the baking pan. In a small bowl, cover the dried cherries with warm water (or rum or liqueur); let them soak and soften.

Place the larger piece of dough between two sheets of parchment, and roll it out to a rectangle a bit larger than the jelly-roll pan. Peel off the top layer of parchment, and invert the dough so it lies centered in the pan, then peel off the second parchment sheet. Gently press and push the dough into the pan to form a smooth, intact crust, even on the bottom and slightly thicker against the sides of the pan. Sc.r.a.pe off excess dough so the crust is flush with the pan sides, and save all the sc.r.a.ps. (If the crust tears or is too thin in spots, patch with the extra dough.) For the tart filling, sc.r.a.pe all the cherry preserves into a bowl; drain the rehydrated cherries and stir them into the preserves. Spread all the filling in the crust, covering the bottom evenly.

Roll the smaller piece of dough between the parchment sheets to a round or oblong sheet (about as thick as you rolled the larger piece of dough). Peel off the top layer of parchment; to make a decorative top crust you can cut out circles or other shapes with floured cookie cutters or use a pastry wheel to cut diamonds or lattice strips. If you are short on top crust dough gather and reroll all the dough sc.r.a.ps to make more shapes, and lay them all over the tart, in any pattern you like, with the cherry filling peeking through. Sprinkle the sliced almonds evenly over the top of the tart.

Set the tart in the oven, and bake about 50 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through the baking time, or until the crust is deep golden brown and the filling is bubbling.

Let the tart cool completely on a wire rack. Cut in pieces of any size, and serve on individual dessert plates, or arrange the pieces on a serving platter for a buffet or picnic. Dust them with confectioners' sugar, or accompany with whipped cream, ice cream, or zabaglione. zabaglione.

The Doria family is the first thing that pops into my mind when I think of Genova. Genova. A bold Genovese n.o.bleman, Andrea Doria (14661560), established the Republic of Genova in 1520. The four Doria family palaces are all embellished with a very distinct architectural feature of gray and white bands of decorative marble. Genova has one of the largest historic centers in Italy. Interwoven among the medieval buildings, there are innumerable traditional shops with farm-fresh foods, delicious Ligurian fish, and pastry shops that bake such delights as the sweet bread A bold Genovese n.o.bleman, Andrea Doria (14661560), established the Republic of Genova in 1520. The four Doria family palaces are all embellished with a very distinct architectural feature of gray and white bands of decorative marble. Genova has one of the largest historic centers in Italy. Interwoven among the medieval buildings, there are innumerable traditional shops with farm-fresh foods, delicious Ligurian fish, and pastry shops that bake such delights as the sweet bread pandolce Genovese. pandolce Genovese. As you stroll through the historic center and soak in the rich architecture, savor some of the traditional baked goods. You can take a funicular to the hill above Genova and look down. But, to my mind, the best view of Genova is seen after climbing to the top of the lighthouse, La Lanterna (1543). A walk down Strada Nuova, lined with sixteenth-century palaces belonging to the most powerful Genovese families, allows you glimpses of grand staircases, atriums, and courtyards, taking you back over five centuries. As you stroll through the historic center and soak in the rich architecture, savor some of the traditional baked goods. You can take a funicular to the hill above Genova and look down. But, to my mind, the best view of Genova is seen after climbing to the top of the lighthouse, La Lanterna (1543). A walk down Strada Nuova, lined with sixteenth-century palaces belonging to the most powerful Genovese families, allows you glimpses of grand staircases, atriums, and courtyards, taking you back over five centuries.

Palazzo del Principe, built by Andrea Doria, is an estate outside the city of Genova with its own port and magnificent terraced gardens. Inside, I particularly like the Loggia of the Heroes, where Doria ancestors are portrayed as gorgeous, muscular warriors. The most impressive room is the Salon of the Fall of the Giants, with its enormous frescoed figures of giants on their backs, struck by Jupiter's thunderbolts.

The Staglieno Cemetery of Genova is my second-favorite place-it's like an open-air museum. There are stone figures reaching out as if to hold on to life. Marble effigies lounge longingly on the steps in front of a sarcophagus, as if waiting for a loved one to return. The sculptures of saints and angels, portraits in marble, stone, and bronze, are executed to perfection. of Genova is my second-favorite place-it's like an open-air museum. There are stone figures reaching out as if to hold on to life. Marble effigies lounge longingly on the steps in front of a sarcophagus, as if waiting for a loved one to return. The sculptures of saints and angels, portraits in marble, stone, and bronze, are executed to perfection.

Imperia, on the Riviera di Ponente, extending toward France from Genova, is actually two separate towns: the charming Porto Maurizio and the more industrial Oneglia. I have spent lovely evenings sipping an aperitif along the water in Porto Maurizio against a backdrop of pastel palazzos, listening to the soft splashing of fishing boats bobbing up and down in the port. I love the sandy beach here, and the picturesque alleyways.

Cinque Terre is a great place for hiking. As the train taking you there barrels through tunnels and hugs the earth's ridges, the sparkling sea complements the hills that rise steeply from the coast. The hiking trail of the Cinque Terre leads to the five small villages Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Sheltered coves with beaches and lush vegetation-filled terraces are all a part of the Riviera di Levante, which extends from Genova to La Spezia. is a great place for hiking. As the train taking you there barrels through tunnels and hugs the earth's ridges, the sparkling sea complements the hills that rise steeply from the coast. The hiking trail of the Cinque Terre leads to the five small villages Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Sheltered coves with beaches and lush vegetation-filled terraces are all a part of the Riviera di Levante, which extends from Genova to La Spezia.