- 6 veal shanks veal shanks ( (ossobuco), cut 3 inches thick, about 1 pound each - 2 bay leaves bay leaves - 4 whole cloves cloves - 1 sprig fresh rosemary rosemary - 10 juniper berries juniper berries - 1 orange orange - 1 lemon lemon - 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.e sea salt coa.r.s.e sea salt, or to taste - 1 cup or so all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging the meat for dredging the meat - cup vegetable oil vegetable oil - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 cups finely chopped onions onions - cup peeled and shredded carrot carrot - cup finely chopped trimmed celery celery - 2 teaspoons tomato paste tomato paste - 1 cup crushed canned Italian San Marzano plum tomatoes plum tomatoes - 2 cups white wine white wine - About 8 cups hot poultry, meat, or vegetable stock poultry, meat, or vegetable stock - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper - FOR THE GREMOLATA GREMOLATA - 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped cloves, peeled and finely chopped - Zest of 1 lemon lemon, in fine shreds or chopped RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: Cotton kitchen twine; a small piece of cheesecloth; a heavy 7-quart saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, preferably about 12-inch diameter (just wide enough to hold all the shank pieces without excess s.p.a.ce around them) Stand the shank pieces up on a flat end. Cut six lengths of twine, each about 2 feet long, and wrap one around the outside of each ossobuco ossobuco, in the middle (the meat will look as though it's wearing a very tight belt). Tie the twine securely and trim the ends.

Cut a small square of cheesecloth and wrap up the bay leaves, cloves, rosemary sprig, and juniper berries. Tie the packet with twine. Shave off the peel of the orange and lemon in broad strips with a paring knife or vegetable peeler-remove only the colorful zest, not the bitter white pith. Squeeze and strain the juice from the orange.

Just before browning the meat, salt the ossobuco ossobuco lightly, using teaspoon in all. Dredge the shanks in the flour to coat all surfaces. lightly, using teaspoon in all. Dredge the shanks in the flour to coat all surfaces.

Pour the vegetable oil into the pan, and set over medium-high heat. Shake off excess flour, and set all the ossobuco ossobuco in the oil, standing on a cut end. Let them sizzle for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottoms are well browned; turn to caramelize the other cut side. Flip the pieces onto their round edges, and rotate so the fat crisps all around the shanks. Remove them to a platter when nicely colored-this will take 10 minutes or more. in the oil, standing on a cut end. Let them sizzle for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottoms are well browned; turn to caramelize the other cut side. Flip the pieces onto their round edges, and rotate so the fat crisps all around the shanks. Remove them to a platter when nicely colored-this will take 10 minutes or more.

When all the ossobuco ossobuco are browned, carefully pour the hot vegetable oil out of the empty pan, leaving the crusted bits of meat on the bottom. Pour in the olive oil, set over medium-high heat, and dump in the onions. Stir them around for a minute or two, sc.r.a.ping the pan to release the caramelized bits, then stir in the carrot and celery. Drop in the cheesecloth herb sachet, sprinkle on a teaspoon of salt, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are sizzling and wilting. are browned, carefully pour the hot vegetable oil out of the empty pan, leaving the crusted bits of meat on the bottom. Pour in the olive oil, set over medium-high heat, and dump in the onions. Stir them around for a minute or two, sc.r.a.ping the pan to release the caramelized bits, then stir in the carrot and celery. Drop in the cheesecloth herb sachet, sprinkle on a teaspoon of salt, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are sizzling and wilting.

Clear a s.p.a.ce in the pan bottom, and drop in the tomato paste; cook the paste in the hot spot for a minute, then stir it into the vegetables. Add the crushed tomatoes, stir well, and bring to a boil. Raise the heat to high, pour in the wine, and cook for a couple of minutes at a boil to evaporate the alcohol. Pour in the orange juice and about 6 cups of the hot stock; drop in all the strips of citrus zest and the remaining salt, and bring the liquids to a boil.

Return the ossobuco ossobuco to the saucepan, standing them on end so they're evenly immersed in the sauce. Add more hot stock, if necessary, just to cover the tops of the to the saucepan, standing them on end so they're evenly immersed in the sauce. Add more hot stock, if necessary, just to cover the tops of the ossobuco ossobuco with liquid. Cover the pan, and lower the heat so the sauce is perking steadily but not too fast. Cook for an hour or so, covered, checking that the sauce has not reduced and is still covering the meat (add stock if needed). Turn the with liquid. Cover the pan, and lower the heat so the sauce is perking steadily but not too fast. Cook for an hour or so, covered, checking that the sauce has not reduced and is still covering the meat (add stock if needed). Turn the ossobuco ossobuco over in the pan so the meat cooks evenly. over in the pan so the meat cooks evenly.

Uncover the pan, and cook for another hour or more at a bubbling simmer, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain slow but steady concentration of the sauce. As the braising-liquid level gradually drops, carefully turn the shanks again, so no parts dry out.

Cook for 2 to 3 hours in all, until the meat at its thickest part is tender enough to pierce with a fork with only slight resistance, and the sauce is thick, reduced well below the tops of the shank pieces. Season with fresh pepper to taste and stir. Turn off the heat. Lift each ossobuco ossobuco from the cooking pot with st.u.r.dy tongs, letting the sauce drain off, and place it on a large platter. Snip the knotted twine pieces with a scissors; pull off and discard. Lift out the cheesecloth sachet, press to release all the juices back into the pot, and discard. from the cooking pot with st.u.r.dy tongs, letting the sauce drain off, and place it on a large platter. Snip the knotted twine pieces with a scissors; pull off and discard. Lift out the cheesecloth sachet, press to release all the juices back into the pot, and discard.

Set a wire-mesh sieve in a bowl or saucepan. Strain all the sauce through the sieve, pressing the liquid from the strips of peel and vegetable bits. The sauce should be thick and velvety, with the consistency of mola.s.ses (if it is too thin, quickly reduce it over high heat). Taste the sauce, and adjust the seasoning for the last time.

Chop and stir together the chopped parsley, garlic, and lemon zest for the gremolata gremolata just before serving, for freshness. Spoon the just before serving, for freshness. Spoon the Risotto alla Milanese Risotto alla Milanese into the center of six wide plates, and nestle the into the center of six wide plates, and nestle the ossobuco ossobuco in the center of the risotto. Spoon over it some of the sauce, and sprinkle lightly with in the center of the risotto. Spoon over it some of the sauce, and sprinkle lightly with gremolata gremolata (about teaspoon per serving). Serve with small spoons for scooping the delicious marrow from the bones, and pa.s.s the remaining (about teaspoon per serving). Serve with small spoons for scooping the delicious marrow from the bones, and pa.s.s the remaining gremolata gremolata at the table. at the table.

VEAL C CHOP G GRATINATO.

Costolette al Formaggio Serves 6 Serves 6 Gorgonzola and Taleggio are my favorites of Lombardy's many fine cheeses. Both are made from rich cow's milk, exclusively from animals that have grazed in the pastures of particular locales. The finest Taleggio, in my opinion, comes from small producers in the highlands north of Bergamo, where the cheese originated centuries ago. Creamy and soft when ripe, Taleggio is a superb table cheese, all by itself or with a piece of good bread or fruit (and at room temperature, of course). On my recent trips to Lombardy, though, I've appreciated it as a component of cooked dishes. As I've suggested in the recipes, fold it into any of the riso riso dishes in this chapter-after the heat is off-and you will love how it melts and lends its luxurious texture and complex flavors to the rice. dishes in this chapter-after the heat is off-and you will love how it melts and lends its luxurious texture and complex flavors to the rice.

Because it browns beautifully in a hot oven, Taleggio is a great cheese for a gratinato gratinato, as you will find when you try this very special recipe. Thick veal chops are browned, then braised in a sage-infused tomato sauce and finished in the oven under thin slivers of Taleggio and a sprinkle of grana. grana. The golden crown of cheese over the tender meat is a perfect final touch. The golden crown of cheese over the tender meat is a perfect final touch.

To be sure, this is an extravagant dish and demands the best ingredients. Meaty veal chops are always expensive, and these should be cut extra thick (either rib or, my preference, loin chops are suitable). And your Taleggio must come from a reliable cheesemonger who has allowed the cheese to ripen properly before it's cut and sold-too young and you won't get the full flavor. The cheese should be soft under the rind but not runny all the way through. In fact, you'll need to chill ripe Taleggio in order to slice it thinly for the recipe. But the effort and expense are well worth it, as you'll find when you taste your costolette al formaggio. costolette al formaggio.

- 6 veal loin chops veal loin chops, cut 1 inches thick, about 12 ounces each - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging for dredging - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 12 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 1 cup dry white wine dry white wine - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 5 ounces Taleggio Taleggio, cut in 6 or more thin slices - 2 tablespoons grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed, ovenproof skillet or saute pan, preferably 13-inch diameter or larger, with a cover Season the veal chops with salt on both sides, using about a teaspoon in all. Spread the flour on a plate, and lay in the chops to coat on both sides. Leave them in the flour briefly while heating the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the big skillet over medium-high heat.

As soon as the b.u.t.ter is foaming, quickly shake excess flour off the chops and lay them in the pan, nestling them all in one layer. Brown them well on the first side, about 3 minutes, then flip them over. Drop the sage leaves between and around the chops. When they are nicely caramelized on the second side, move the chops to a large platter (but leave the sage in the pan).

Pour in the wine, and bring to a boil, sc.r.a.ping up the browned bits in the skillet bottom. Boil for a minute or so, to cook off some of the alcohol, then stir in the crushed tomatoes and the remaining teaspoon salt. Slosh the tomato containers with 1 cup water, and stir that in, too. Bring the sauce to a bubbling simmer and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes, to reduce a bit and develop flavor.

Return the veal chops to the skillet, and pour in any meat juices that acc.u.mulated on the platter-the meat should be nearly submerged in braising liquid. Cover the pan, and adjust the heat to maintain the active simmer. Let the veal braise about 20 minutes, until cooked all the way through. Meanwhile, arrange a rack in the top third of the oven, and heat to 425.

Uncover the pan, and if the braising liquid is still near the top of the chops, let it boil down to thicken over high heat for a few minutes. Distribute the Taleggio slices equally over the meaty parts of the chops, and sprinkle a teaspoon grana grana over each cheese-topped chop. over each cheese-topped chop.

Set the skillet in the oven, and bake until the cheese is tinged with gold and the sauce has thickened. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven. Lift the chops from the pan to a serving plate, and spoon sauce all around.

This dish is so full of flavor that a vegetable with a gentle flavor will do best. I love boiled asparagus spears with just a drop of b.u.t.ter, allowing the veal sauce to flavor them. Braised spinach or Jerusalem artichokes would be very good as well.

The wrapper on a Taleggio form with the a.s.surance of DOP-"Di Origine Proteta," a traditional and government-controlled product ALMOND C CAKE ALLA M MANTOVANA.

Torta Mantovana Makes a 9-inch cake, serving 8 or more Makes a 9-inch cake, serving 8 or more This traditional almond cake is named for the historic city of Mantova (perhaps better known to most English speakers as Mantua, the city to which Romeo is exiled in Romeo and Juliet Romeo and Juliet).

The torta torta is equally delightful for dessert and for breakfast. In the evening, I like to serve it with poached fruit-prunes poached in rum are perfect-and a dollop of whipped cream. Of course, I make sure there's some left over, so I can enjoy it again in the morning, with my is equally delightful for dessert and for breakfast. In the evening, I like to serve it with poached fruit-prunes poached in rum are perfect-and a dollop of whipped cream. Of course, I make sure there's some left over, so I can enjoy it again in the morning, with my caffe caffe And since it's quite moist and keeps well, it will be good the following morning, too (excellent incentive to cut small slices and make it last!). And since it's quite moist and keeps well, it will be good the following morning, too (excellent incentive to cut small slices and make it last!).

On a more serious culinary note, I want to emphasize the importance of using a fine almond extract in this cake. Indeed, all desserts and dishes that call for fruit, nut, or spice extracts are immeasurably better when you use a top-quality extract rather than a supermarket brand (and never use an imitation flavor). The slightly greater expense of a premium extract is always worthwhile and will pay you back in the flavor of your creations.

- 5 ounces (1 sticks) soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, plus more for the cake pan - 2 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 2 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - 1 teaspoons baking powder baking powder - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 3 ounces whole blanched almonds, toasted toasted (about cup) (about cup) - 1 cups sugar sugar - 1 large egg egg - 4 large egg yolks egg yolks - Finely grated zest of 1 lemon lemon (about 2 teaspoons) (about 2 teaspoons) - 1 teaspoon almond extract almond extract - 2 tablespoons milk milk RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 9-inch springform pan; a food processor; an electric mixer with paddle attachment Arrange a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat to 350. b.u.t.ter the bottom and sides of the a.s.sembled springform pan, add the bread crumbs, and swirl them around to coat the insides well, tapping out the excess.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Pulse the almonds in the food-processor bowl until finely ground but not pasty, about twelve quick pulses.

In the mixer, cream the b.u.t.ter and sugar on high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Drop in the egg and yolks, one at a time, mixing well on medium speed, then sc.r.a.ping down the bowl. Once all the eggs are in, add the lemon zest and almond extract, and beat on high speed for a minute or so, until very light.

On low speed, spoon in half the flour mix, and beat just to incorporate. Beat in the milk, then the remaining flour mix. Sc.r.a.pe the bowl, and beat briefly until smooth. Finally, mix in the ground almonds for a few seconds to distribute them evenly through the batter. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan, and spread it in an even layer.

Bake the torta torta for about 1 hour, rotating the pan after 30 minutes, until the cake is golden brown on top and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean and dry (it's okay if a few moist crumbs stick to it). for about 1 hour, rotating the pan after 30 minutes, until the cake is golden brown on top and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean and dry (it's okay if a few moist crumbs stick to it).

Let the cake cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack. Run a paring knife around the edge of the cake to loosen it from the pan, then open the spring and remove the side ring.

Cool the cake thoroughly before serving. Wrap well to keep fresh for 2 to 3 days. (In the morning, I like to warm a slice of torta torta to enjoy with my cappuccino.) to enjoy with my cappuccino.)

One of the high points in Milan Milan is the Brera Gallery, where I always make a point of seeking out Bramante's is the Brera Gallery, where I always make a point of seeking out Bramante's Men at Arms. Men at Arms. The frescoed figures are so real, each expression different, with light bouncing off wavy hair, lips curled in haughty smirks, and a faint glimmer in the eyes. The frescoed figures are so real, each expression different, with light bouncing off wavy hair, lips curled in haughty smirks, and a faint glimmer in the eyes.

The Navigli Navigli quarter is the bohemian side of Milan. Home to photographers, artists, antique shops, and outdoor markets, Navigli is surprising because of the waterways that weave around the old buildings. quarter is the bohemian side of Milan. Home to photographers, artists, antique shops, and outdoor markets, Navigli is surprising because of the waterways that weave around the old buildings.

In Bergamo Bergamo, in the upper city, walk under the Palazzo della Ragione to the Colleoni Chapel, burial place of the famous mercenary soldier Bartolomeo Colleoni. Decorated with intricate carving and colored marble, every nook and cranny is filled with detail to keep your eyes occupied for hours.

Many people come to Mantova Mantova to view, in the Gonzaga Ducal Palace, the Camera degli Sposi, a gorgeous bedroom of newlyweds painted by Andrea Mantegna. The frescoes are breathtaking, rich in color, and filled with the details of Renaissance life. The highlight of Mantova for me is Palazzo Te, which was the summer residence of the Gonzaga family, known as a pleasure palace for activities such as horseback riding, and also the place for lascivious behavior. The palazzo is the Mannerist masterpiece of Giulio Romano, well known also for his book on s.e.xual positions, to view, in the Gonzaga Ducal Palace, the Camera degli Sposi, a gorgeous bedroom of newlyweds painted by Andrea Mantegna. The frescoes are breathtaking, rich in color, and filled with the details of Renaissance life. The highlight of Mantova for me is Palazzo Te, which was the summer residence of the Gonzaga family, known as a pleasure palace for activities such as horseback riding, and also the place for lascivious behavior. The palazzo is the Mannerist masterpiece of Giulio Romano, well known also for his book on s.e.xual positions, I Modi. I Modi. The frescoes inside the palazzo cover a similar topic. The frescoes inside the palazzo cover a similar topic.

Castiglione Olona is a sleepy town on the Olona River. The Palazzo Branda is filled with wonderful frescoes by the early-Renaissance painter Masolino, who was called there to decorate the palace. You will probably be the only people visiting, and much attention will be shed on you by the caretaker. There is an outdoor market here the first Sunday of each month, where you can find old books, antique gla.s.s, silver, and other precious objects. is a sleepy town on the Olona River. The Palazzo Branda is filled with wonderful frescoes by the early-Renaissance painter Masolino, who was called there to decorate the palace. You will probably be the only people visiting, and much attention will be shed on you by the caretaker. There is an outdoor market here the first Sunday of each month, where you can find old books, antique gla.s.s, silver, and other precious objects.

Sirmione is one of the most romantic spots in Italy, best experienced when there is a low fog on Lake Garda that slowly consumes the peninsula. Originally a Roman settlement (visit the Grotto of Catullus-a great example of a private Roman edifice), the Castle of Sirmione is perfectly adorned with crenellation worthy of a movie set. is one of the most romantic spots in Italy, best experienced when there is a low fog on Lake Garda that slowly consumes the peninsula. Originally a Roman settlement (visit the Grotto of Catullus-a great example of a private Roman edifice), the Castle of Sirmione is perfectly adorned with crenellation worthy of a movie set.

The fabulous Certosa di Pavia Certosa di Pavia, a monastery begun in the fourteenth century, has in its library an enormous number of ancient texts. The facade is so rich in marble sculpture and so blindingly white, it always reminds me of an overdone wedding cake. About five miles outside of town is one of the most charming bridges in Italy, the covered bridge over the Ticino River in Pavia. It connects the historical center of Pavia to the other riverbank, Borgo Ticino. Around the first Sunday in September, Pavia is home to a frog festival, held in outdoor gardens, during which frogs (from the rice fields) are served in every way imaginable.-TANYA Mario Donizetti in his home in Bergamo

Overleaf: Castello di Saint-Pierre

IRONICALLY, IT WAS AN AMERICAN WHO FIRST TOOK ME INTO THE heart of the small mountainous region of Valle d'Aosta, in the northwest corner of Italy, back in 1985. And for that pleasure I am always grateful to my dear friend Dr. Paul Mandala. Paul was a great pediatrician (now retired) who adored Italian wines and food. He comes from a Sicilian background, but his love affair with Italian gastronomy blossomed during his years of medical study in Bologna. heart of the small mountainous region of Valle d'Aosta, in the northwest corner of Italy, back in 1985. And for that pleasure I am always grateful to my dear friend Dr. Paul Mandala. Paul was a great pediatrician (now retired) who adored Italian wines and food. He comes from a Sicilian background, but his love affair with Italian gastronomy blossomed during his years of medical study in Bologna.

In the 1980s, long before culinary tours of Italy were a big business, Dr. Paul organized Italian wine-and-food dinners for a group of fellow food-loving physicians in New York (which is how I met him), and every year he would take them to a different area of Italy to eat and explore. One year, Valle d'Aosta was the destination, and he invited me to come with them. I had never been, and I accepted.

Paul loved Valle d'Aosta and was intimately familiar with its spectacular terrain, set in the western Alpine range, surrounded by four of the highest mountains in Europe, Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc), Monte Rosa, Cervino (the Matterhorn), and Monte Gran Paradiso.

Though Valle d'Aosta is best known as a winter tourist attraction, it was spring when we drove north from Torino, climbing steadily toward Courmayeur, underneath Monte Bianco. The rolling hills were emerald green, and the mountains ash gray, topped with glaring snowcaps under the spring sun. It was clear why one could fall in love with this beautiful, almost humbling setting. Paul had found us the perfect inn, a small chalet that looked up at the southern face of Monte Bianco. I will never forget the rumbling of an avalanche from that majestic peak, right across from my chalet window-the distant rocks rolling down the mountainside like jelly beans from a pile.

We had a great time traveling around Valle d'Aosta that spring. We visited Alpine vineyards; we made friends with the local bovines and drank their freshly yielded milk, alive with the flavors of the Alpine spring pastures. We ate the complex fontina cheese, and dunked our grilled polenta tarragna polenta tarragna into the creamy into the creamy fonduta fonduta at the dinner table. And, most memorably, we sang local folk songs in front of the fireplace, while pa.s.sing around the at the dinner table. And, most memorably, we sang local folk songs in front of the fireplace, while pa.s.sing around the grolla. grolla. The perfect symbol of our group's journey, the The perfect symbol of our group's journey, the grolla grolla is a deep, lidded bowl, carved from local walnut wood, with a ring of small drinking spouts sculpted all around the bowl. is a deep, lidded bowl, carved from local walnut wood, with a ring of small drinking spouts sculpted all around the bowl.

The many spouts of a grolla grolla are the reason it is also known as a are the reason it is also known as a coppa dell'amicizia coppa dell'amicizia, the cup of friendship. As is the custom in Valle d'Aosta, our grolla grolla was filled with a nearly boiling mixture of freshly brewed coffee, red wine, grappa, sugar, and lemon peels, and capped tightly with the beautifully engraved lid. As we pa.s.sed it around, every one of us took a sip from one of the spouts. We learned quickly that the was filled with a nearly boiling mixture of freshly brewed coffee, red wine, grappa, sugar, and lemon peels, and capped tightly with the beautifully engraved lid. As we pa.s.sed it around, every one of us took a sip from one of the spouts. We learned quickly that the grolla grolla should be held like a precious commodity, in both hands, and pa.s.sed carefully-and pa.s.sed again, and again, until there is no more. Friendship is sealed! should be held like a precious commodity, in both hands, and pa.s.sed carefully-and pa.s.sed again, and again, until there is no more. Friendship is sealed!

I have made several visits to Valle d'Aosta in the years since Dr. Paul took us into the Alps. And I've come to understand that the cuisine of Valle d'Aosta, though it obviously reflects the influence of the bordering cuisines of France to the north and Piemonte to the south, definitely has a quality all its own.

Soups are a main staple, dense and nourishing, such as the Soup with Bread and Fontina Pasticciata Pasticciata. Polenta accompanies many dishes, from fonduta fonduta to meat and vegetables (see Polenta with White Beans and Black Kale). Risottos are made with the seasonal flavors of the mountains; for instance, in the fall, Rice and Chestnuts- to meat and vegetables (see Polenta with White Beans and Black Kale). Risottos are made with the seasonal flavors of the mountains; for instance, in the fall, Rice and Chestnuts-Riso e Castagne could be a main course, or a dessert if sweetened. Game and meats, such as beef prepared as could be a main course, or a dessert if sweetened. Game and meats, such as beef prepared as Filetto alla Carbonade Filetto alla Carbonade and and Socca Socca, you'll find are unique.

But the flag dish of this region is fonduta fonduta, a melted fontina-cheese sauce that goes well with everything from polenta to vegetables and meats. And when you combine and stuff veal chops with fontina, you have the delicious Costolette alla Fontina Costolette alla Fontina.

Cheese is used a lot in Valle d'Aosta cooking, especially fontina. The fontina cheese is produced only in Valle d'Aosta. Somewhat different from other cheeses, fontina is a semi-cooked, semi-hard cheese made from the whole milk of the first milking of the cows. The rind is thin, and the paste is creamy, soft, and elastic. Its color is light straw to yellow, its taste is sweet, and to be a DOP it must contain 45 percent fat. It must be produced exclusively from the Valdostana breed, which feed on the local herbs and forage.

The most prominent species of cows, which yield the rich milk for the production of fontina, are the dappled red, which from a distance seem like moving freckles on the mountainsides. The milk of all-black and dappled white-and-black cows is also used in making fontina.

My close encounter with these wonderful animals was when I asked Pietro Vallet, from Caseificio Pietro Vallet e Figli in Donnas, a small producer of fontina, to take me to the source, the fountain of goodness from which he made his delicious fontina. Up the hills we went to visit the pastures of Matilde, who runs a mother-and-son milk operation. I felt as if I were Heidi in my favorite book when I was a child. The pasture was sprinkled with these beautiful animals, peacefully grazing. Now and then the sound of the big Alpine cowbell chimed in the silence. When I asked Matilde why only a few of the cows had the bells-we could have had a symphony if they'd all had bells-she said, "Ah, only the leaders have bells, so the rest can follow." They were so peaceful and secure that my coming barely evoked curiosity. I was more curious than they. Matilde noticed that I wanted to get closer to them, so she signaled with her hand for me to go among them, and slowly I did. They acknowledged me-some with just a look, but others came close enough to lick my hands and arms. Their raspy warm tongues were like a caress, and they seemed to know how I appreciate their hard work.

On those initial trips, I was dubious about the quality of the wines at this high alt.i.tude, but, with each subsequent visit and tasting, it became clear that this challenging terrain, where the vines grow low, clinging to the rocks, produces some very interesting and delicious wines.

The DOC reds are the Dommas, Chabave Rosso, and Nuss Rosso, and the whites are Blanc de Morgex, Bianco, and the sweet Nus Malvisie Fletri. A wonderful local producer, whom I discovered in my early visits, is Constantino Charrere from the winery Les Crates in Aymavilles. I have been there many times now, and carry his wines in our restaurants in the States. His pa.s.sion is evident in his wines and in his words: "Il nostro vino a la montagna che si fa bere. La Valle d'Aosta, i nostri vigneti e i nostri uomini contribuiscono alla realizzazione di questa stupefacente magia" "Il nostro vino a la montagna che si fa bere. La Valle d'Aosta, i nostri vigneti e i nostri uomini contribuiscono alla realizzazione di questa stupefacente magia" ("The mountain is the wine we drink. The Valle d'Aosta, our vineyards, and our people make the realization of this stupefying magic a reality"). ("The mountain is the wine we drink. The Valle d'Aosta, our vineyards, and our people make the realization of this stupefying magic a reality").

POLENTA WITH W WHITE B BEANS & B & BLACK K KALE.

Polenta con Cavolo Nero Serves 6 Serves 6 This terrific dish brings into one bowl three essential Italian foods: polenta, cannellini, and the unique variety of kale called cavolo nero cavolo nero-one of my favorite vegetables. The customary green in Tuscan ribollita, cavolo nero ribollita, cavolo nero has an earthy mouth-filling flavor, as if cabbage, broccoli, chickory, and spinach were all packed into one leaf. Fortunately, this delicious and healthful vegetable is now being grown and sold in this country under a variety of names, including has an earthy mouth-filling flavor, as if cabbage, broccoli, chickory, and spinach were all packed into one leaf. Fortunately, this delicious and healthful vegetable is now being grown and sold in this country under a variety of names, including lacinata lacinata, or dinosaur kale (for the texture of the leaves), and black kale (for their dark hue). In this recipe, cavolo nero cavolo nero is braised with bacon and cannellini and served atop hot polenta. But you can just braise it with bacon, following the same basic procedure, and serve it as a delicious side dish, or enjoy it in crusty bread as a great sandwich filling. is braised with bacon and cannellini and served atop hot polenta. But you can just braise it with bacon, following the same basic procedure, and serve it as a delicious side dish, or enjoy it in crusty bread as a great sandwich filling.

- FOR THE BEANS - pound dried cannellini beans dried cannellini beans, rinsed and soaked overnight - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - FOR THE POLENTA - 5 cups cold water water - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 1 cup yellow polenta polenta, medium grind - FOR THE GREENS - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 8 ounces slab bacon slab bacon, cut into -inch lardoons - 1 pounds cavolo nero cavolo nero (black kale), tough stems removed, leaves cut in 2-inch shreds (black kale), tough stems removed, leaves cut in 2-inch shreds - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 8 ounces finely shredded fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 3-quart pot for cooking the beans; a heavy-bottomed 3- or 4-quart saucepan with a cover for cooking the polenta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover To cook the beans: Drain the soaked beans and put them in the pot with fresh cold water covering them by an inch or so; add the bay leaves and olive oil. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to keep the liquid simmering steadily, and cook, partially covered, about 40 minutes or until the beans are just cooked through, but not mushy. Turn off the heat, stir in teaspoon salt, and let the beans cool for a while in the pot, absorbing some of the cooking liquid.

To cook the polenta: Pour the water and olive oil into the heavy pot, drop in the salt and bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Pick up the polenta by handfuls and let it rain into the water through your fingers, whisking steadily with a st.u.r.dy wire whisk, until it is all incorporated. Return the polenta to a boil over medium heat, still whisking. When big bubbles start bursting, lower the heat to keep the polenta perking, and set the cover ajar on the pot. Stir frequently with the whisk or wooden spoon, sc.r.a.ping the bottom and sides of the pot as the cereal thickens. Cook for about 25 minutes or until the polenta is glossy and pulls away from the sides as you stir; for this dish it should be soft, not too firm. Turn off the heat and cover the pot to keep the polenta hot.

To cook the kale: Pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium heat, and scatter in the bacon. Cook, stirring occasionally, as the bacon sizzles and renders most of its fat, 4 or 5 minutes. Pile the shredded kale in the pan, sprinkle the salt over it, put on the cover, and cook, tossing the kale a couple of times, until the shreds have wilted, about 5 minutes.

Uncover the skillet, and stir in the cooked cannellini, along with about a cup (not all) of the bean cooking liquid and the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or more, until the kale is tender. Stir in more bean liquid as needed to keep the greens and beans from drying.

When the kale and beans are ready, stir half of the shredded fontina into the hot polenta. Spoon portions of polenta into warm shallow bowls, then top each with kale and beans and a sprinkling of fontina. Serve right away, while very hot.

REAL F FONTINAFor this fonduta fonduta and many other recipes in this chapter, I always recommend using genuine fontina from Valle d'Aosta. With superb flavor, texture, and melting ability, this cow's-milk cheese is unsurpa.s.sed in these dishes, far superior to the inexpensive cheeses called fontina produced outside of Italy, including American and Scandinavian versions. and many other recipes in this chapter, I always recommend using genuine fontina from Valle d'Aosta. With superb flavor, texture, and melting ability, this cow's-milk cheese is unsurpa.s.sed in these dishes, far superior to the inexpensive cheeses called fontina produced outside of Italy, including American and Scandinavian versions.Fortunately, imported authentic fontina is widely available in markets with good cheese departments and from gourmet Internet vendors. Be sure that you are buying DOP (name-protected) fontina, with the distinctive imprint of an Alpine peak on the wheel. Though more expensive than other semi-soft cheeses, it is well worth the cost.If DOP fontina isn't available, a less distinctive but similar cheese called Fontal, imported from Italy, is a good subst.i.tute.

FONDUE V VALLE D'AOSTASTYLE Fonduta alla Valdostana Serves 6 Serves 6 If you liked the fondues so popular in the 1960s-those pots or chafing dishes of melted cheese in which everyone dunked crudites, crackers, and bread-you will be thrilled to taste an authentic fonduta fonduta as it is prepared in Valle d'Aosta. Though the technique of melting cheese over a low flame is much the same, the main ingredient makes all the difference: nothing compares to a fondue of authentic fontina, the sweet, nutty, semi-soft cheese made only in the Aosta Valley-and only from the milk of those gentle dappled red, brown, and black Valdostana cows. as it is prepared in Valle d'Aosta. Though the technique of melting cheese over a low flame is much the same, the main ingredient makes all the difference: nothing compares to a fondue of authentic fontina, the sweet, nutty, semi-soft cheese made only in the Aosta Valley-and only from the milk of those gentle dappled red, brown, and black Valdostana cows.

Customarily served as a dip for chunks of toasted bread, fonduta fonduta is a great sauce for all kinds of foods. I like it on poultry and meats, such as poached chicken or turkey breast, or lightly seared veal medallions; or on vegetables-steamed asparagus, broccoli, cardoons, celery, and many more. And it's delicious spooned over a bowl of hot polenta or boiled gnocchi. is a great sauce for all kinds of foods. I like it on poultry and meats, such as poached chicken or turkey breast, or lightly seared veal medallions; or on vegetables-steamed asparagus, broccoli, cardoons, celery, and many more. And it's delicious spooned over a bowl of hot polenta or boiled gnocchi.

There's one more thing I must tell you. La sua morte La sua morte, as it is said in Italian, the ultimate pleasurable enjoyment of fonduta alla Valdostana fonduta alla Valdostana, is to top it with shavings of fresh white Alba truffle from neighboring Piemonte. Two Italian treasures in one dish.

- 1 pound fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal; see box), shredded from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal; see box), shredded - 1 cups milk milk - -pound (or larger) chunk or whole loaf of Italian or other light-textured tasty bread Italian or other light-textured tasty bread - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 2 egg yolks egg yolks - Pinch of kosher salt kosher salt RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A box grater/shredder or other hand shredder; a 2-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan; a wire whisk; 6 small glazed terra-cotta pots or other bowls or ramekins (8 to 12 ounces each in volume) for individual servings, or one large ceramic vessel for a communal fonduta fonduta Heap the shredded fontina in a gla.s.s or glazed ceramic bowl, and pour the milk over it. Stir to make sure the cheese is submerged, seal the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

To make toasts for dipping: Heat the oven to 350. Slice the bread chunk or loaf lengthwise into big oval slabs about an inch thick. Cut these into small blocks, 3 to 4 inches long and 2 or 3 inches wide (the size of a BlackBerry or iPod!), that will afford a few good bites when dipped in the fondue. Lay the bread blocks flat on a baking sheet, and toast in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, turning now and then, until golden brown and crisp all the way through.

To make the fonduta: fonduta: Stir the milk and cheese shreds (now softened and crumbling) and sc.r.a.pe them into the saucepan. Heat slowly over a low flame, stirring often, as the cheese melts and blends with the milk, until smooth and steaming hot. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter, and keep the Stir the milk and cheese shreds (now softened and crumbling) and sc.r.a.pe them into the saucepan. Heat slowly over a low flame, stirring often, as the cheese melts and blends with the milk, until smooth and steaming hot. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter, and keep the fonduta fonduta over low heat-but don't let it boil. over low heat-but don't let it boil.

Beat the egg yolks and pinch of salt in a heatproof bowl with the whisk. Ladle out cup of the hot fondue and drizzle it very gradually into the egg yolks while whisking steadily (this tempers the yolks so they cook without coagulating), until thoroughly blended, then whisk in another cup hot fondue, until smooth. Now slowly drip the tempered yolk mixture back into the saucepan of fonduta fonduta, whisking rapidly, until fully incorporated.

Still over low heat, cook the fonduta fonduta slowly, without boiling, stirring often, for about 10 minutes, until smooth and thickened, easily coating the back of a spoon (or a bread toast). slowly, without boiling, stirring often, for about 10 minutes, until smooth and thickened, easily coating the back of a spoon (or a bread toast).

For serving, warm the small serving bowls (or the large one if serving communally), and pour in fonduta fonduta in equal portions. Give everyone a spoon and a fork to dunk in those last pieces of bread, and wipe up the in equal portions. Give everyone a spoon and a fork to dunk in those last pieces of bread, and wipe up the fonduta fonduta from the bottom of the bowl. from the bottom of the bowl.

Pietro Vallet and son of Caseificio Pietro Vallet e Figli with a form of fontina in their cheese cellar ROASTED-PEPPER & O & OLIVE S SALAD WITH F FONTINA.

Insalata di Fontina Serves 6 Serves 6 What I love about this recipe is its simplicity. With a chunk of fontina or other fine cheese and some tasty vegetables-here I use slices of roasted peppers and green olives-you have the basis for a zesty Alpine salad any time of the year. Freshly roasted peppers are best, but you can use jarred peppers if you like. The creamy mustard dressing can be whipped up in seconds, but leave some time for the dressed salad to sit and the flavors to blend. (The cream gives the dressing a velvety texture, but you can replace it with a tablespoon of olive oil and a tablespoon or two of skimmed milk.) - 6 yellow bell peppers yellow bell peppers to roast (or 3 cups jarred roasted peppers) to roast (or 3 cups jarred roasted peppers) - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - -pound chunk fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) - 1 cup pitted large green olives green olives - cup heavy cream heavy cream - 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard Dijon mustard - 1 tablespoon cider vinegar cider vinegar - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley To roast the peppers: Preheat the oven to 350. Rub the peppers all over with 3 tablespoons olive oil, season with teaspoon salt, and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for 30 minutes or so, turning the peppers occasionally, until their skins are wrinkled and slightly charred. Let the peppers cool completely. Slice them in half through the stem end, discard the stem, peel off the skin, and sc.r.a.pe out the seeds. Slice the peppers into -inch strips, and place them in a sieve to drain and dry. (If using jarred peppers, slice and drain the same way.) Slice the fontina into -inch-thick slabs, then into -inch matchsticks. Slice the olives lengthwise into -inch slivers. Toss the sliced peppers, cheese, and olives together in a large bowl.

For the dressing: Whisk together the cream, mustard, cider vinegar, and remaining salt in a small bowl. Whisk in the remaining olive oil gradually, until the dressing is smooth and emulsified. Pour the dressing over the salad; toss and tumble to coat all the pieces. Let the salad sit at room temperature, so the flavors blend, for at least 15 minutes, then sprinkle over it the chopped parsley, toss again, and serve. (You can a.s.semble and dress the salad an hour in advance and keep it refrigerated. Let it sit at room temperature for a few minutes before adding the parsley and serving.) SOUP WITH B BREAD & F & FONTINA P PASTICCIATA.

Seuppa ou Piat Serves 6 Serves 6 This might seem like an unusual dish, a pasticciata pasticciata (a layered ca.s.serole) of bread and cheese that's baked, cut into portions, and served in a bowl of hot broth. Yet the tastes and eating pleasure of (a layered ca.s.serole) of bread and cheese that's baked, cut into portions, and served in a bowl of hot broth. Yet the tastes and eating pleasure of seuppa ou piat seuppa ou piat will be completely familiar and welcome to anyone who loves the gratineed crouton of French onion soup or enjoys a crispy grilled-cheese sandwich with a bowl of rich chicken broth alongside. This is a good dish for company, because you can have both the broth and the will be completely familiar and welcome to anyone who loves the gratineed crouton of French onion soup or enjoys a crispy grilled-cheese sandwich with a bowl of rich chicken broth alongside. This is a good dish for company, because you can have both the broth and the pasticciata pasticciata hot and ready to be put together when your guests come. (Chicken stock is my preference, but a savory vegetable stock or a meaty beef broth is just as good.) hot and ready to be put together when your guests come. (Chicken stock is my preference, but a savory vegetable stock or a meaty beef broth is just as good.) - 8 cups tasty chicken broth chicken broth (or clear beef or vegetable stock) (or clear beef or vegetable stock) - Kosher salt to taste to taste - 1 tablespoon soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter for the baking dish for the baking dish - pound fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing - 18 slices Italian bread Italian bread, cut inch thick from a long oval loaf, left out to dry overnight*

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A baking dish or oval gratin dish, 3 quarts or larger; heavy aluminum foil Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven, and heat to 400. Heat the broth almost to a simmer-season with salt to taste-and keep it hot. b.u.t.ter the sides and bottom of the baking dish. Shred the fontina through the larger holes of a hand grater and toss the shreds with the grana grana (grated hard cheese). (grated hard cheese).

Arrange half of the bread slices in one layer in the baking dish. Ladle out 1 cup of broth, and drizzle it on the bread slices, slightly moistening them all. Sprinkle half of the cheese on top of the bread in an even layer. Cover the cheese with the remaining bread slices, filling the entire surface of the dish. Moisten these slices with another cup or so of stock; top the bread with all the remaining cheese, scattered evenly.

Tent the pasticciata pasticciata with a sheet of heavy aluminum foil, arching it so it doesn't touch the cheese topping, and pressing it against the sides of the baking dish. Set the dish in the oven, and bake until heated through, about 25 minutes. Remove the foil, and continue baking for 10 minutes or more, until the top is golden brown and bubbly. Take the dish from the oven, and let it cool and set for 5 minutes or so. with a sheet of heavy aluminum foil, arching it so it doesn't touch the cheese topping, and pressing it against the sides of the baking dish. Set the dish in the oven, and bake until heated through, about 25 minutes. Remove the foil, and continue baking for 10 minutes or more, until the top is golden brown and bubbly. Take the dish from the oven, and let it cool and set for 5 minutes or so.

To serve: Cut out large squares of pasticciata pasticciata and, with a spatula, transfer them to warm shallow soup or pasta bowls. Ladle a cup of hot broth over each portion and serve immediately, pa.s.sing more grated cheese at the table. and, with a spatula, transfer them to warm shallow soup or pasta bowls. Ladle a cup of hot broth over each portion and serve immediately, pa.s.sing more grated cheese at the table.

BAKED P PENNE & M & MUSHROOMS.

Pasticcio di Penne alla Valdostana Serves 6 Serves 6 The marvelous melting qualities of authentic fontina are particularly evident in baked pasta dishes such as this delicious pasticcio. pasticcio. When it is in the oven with penne (or other tubular or concave pastas, like ziti, rigatoni, or sh.e.l.ls), the molten cheese oozes around each piece of pasta and is caught in all of its nooks and crannies. The cheese on top of the When it is in the oven with penne (or other tubular or concave pastas, like ziti, rigatoni, or sh.e.l.ls), the molten cheese oozes around each piece of pasta and is caught in all of its nooks and crannies. The cheese on top of the pasticcio pasticcio melts and then becomes crusty and caramelized. melts and then becomes crusty and caramelized.

- 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 8 ounces fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing - 4 tablespoons soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 pound mixed fresh mushrooms fresh mushrooms (such as porcini, shiitake, cremini, and common white mushrooms), cleaned and sliced (such as porcini, shiitake, cremini, and common white mushrooms), cleaned and sliced - 1 cup half and half half and half - 1 pound penne penne - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot for cooking the penne; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a 3-quart baking dish, 9 by 13 inches, or shallow ca.s.serole of similar size Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 400. Fill the pasta pot with 6 quarts water, add 1 tablespoon salt, and heat to the boil. Shred the fontina through the larger holes of a hand grater, and toss the shreds with cup of the grana grana (grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano). (grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano).

Put 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, drop in the mushroom slices, stir with the b.u.t.ter, season with 1 teaspoon salt, and spread the mushrooms out to cover the pan bottom. Let the mushrooms heat, without stirring, until they release their liquid and it comes to a boil. Cook the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, as they shrivel and the liquid rapidly evaporates. When the skillet bottom is completely dry, stir the half and half into the mushrooms, and continue stirring as the sauce comes to a boil. Cook it rapidly for a minute or two to thicken slightly, then keep it warm over very low heat.

Meanwhile, stir the penne into the boiling pasta water and cook until barely al dente al dente (still somewhat undercooked to the bite). Ladle a cup of the pasta cooking water into the mushroom sauce and stir. Drain the pasta briefly, and drop into the cream-and-mushroom sauce. Toss the penne until all are nicely coated, then sprinkle over them the remaining cup of (still somewhat undercooked to the bite). Ladle a cup of the pasta cooking water into the mushroom sauce and stir. Drain the pasta briefly, and drop into the cream-and-mushroom sauce. Toss the penne until all are nicely coated, then sprinkle over them the remaining cup of grana grana (not mixed with fontina) and the chopped parsley. Toss to blend. (not mixed with fontina) and the chopped parsley. Toss to blend.

Coat the bottom and sides of the baking dish with the last tablespoon of b.u.t.ter. Empty the skillet into the dish, spreading the penne and sauce to fill the dish completely in a uniform layer. Smooth the top, and sprinkle the mixed fontina-grana evenly all over. evenly all over.

Set the dish in the oven, and bake 20 to 25 minutes, until the cheese topping is crusty and deep golden brown and the sauce is bubbling up at the edges. Set the hot baking dish on a trivet at the table, and serve family-style.

RICE & C & CHESTNUTS.

Riso e Castagne Serves 6 to 8 Serves 6 to 8 In many mountain regions of Italy, chestnuts have been cultivated and gathered as staple foods for generations. In Valle d'Aosta (with thousands of cows), it is customary to cook chestnuts and rice together in milk, a simple, nourishing dish that lends itself to many variations. Traditionally, riso e castagne riso e castagne was made as a light supper in the evening, especially for children before bedtime. The dish has a natural sweetness that kids love, and if you emphasize that quality with sugar, honey, or a swirl of jam, you have a lovely dessert or sweet brunch dish. was made as a light supper in the evening, especially for children before bedtime. The dish has a natural sweetness that kids love, and if you emphasize that quality with sugar, honey, or a swirl of jam, you have a lovely dessert or sweet brunch dish.

It is just as easy, though, to take riso e castagne riso e castagne in a savory direction, as I do in this recipe. With a finish of fontina and in a savory direction, as I do in this recipe. With a finish of fontina and grana grana, it becomes a rich-tasting chestnut-flavored riso riso or risotto, wonderful as a or risotto, wonderful as a primo primo or as a main course. And if the same dish is cooked with more milk-or less rice-it becomes a comforting, creamy, and warming or as a main course. And if the same dish is cooked with more milk-or less rice-it becomes a comforting, creamy, and warming zuppa zuppa, which I am sure is much appreciated in the Alpine winter.

- 2 quarts milk milk - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 pound frozen cooked chestnuts chestnuts, defrosted and thinly sliced, or canned whole chestnuts, drained and sliced - 2 cups Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - 1 cup finely shredded fontina fontina from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) from Valle d'Aosta (or Italian Fontal;) - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for the table RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saucepan, 6-quart capacity, with a cover Put the milk, 2 cups water, b.u.t.ter, and salt in the saucepan, set it over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Stir in the sliced chestnuts, and lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover the pot, and cook about 25 minutes, until the chestnuts are very tender and fall apart when pressed against the side of the pan.

Stir in the rice, return to a gentle simmer, cover the pot, and cook, stirring often, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the rice is al dente al dente, another 15 to 20 minutes. Be prepared to serve immediately.

Turn off the heat, and stir in the cheeses until thoroughly amalgamated. Spoon the riso riso into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table. into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table.

VEAL C CHOPS WITH F FONTINA.

Costolette alla Fontina Serves 6 Serves 6 Veal chops are always something of an extravagance, though worth it when well prepared. In this exciting recipe from Valle d'Aosta, thick rib chops are stuffed with the region's prized fontina, browned, and braised on the stovetop, then baked. The result is quite grand, because the succulent meat and pan sauce are enriched with driblets and hidden pockets of sweet melted fontina. And if you want to go superluxe for a special occasion, shave fresh truffle on top of each chop just before serving.

To return to earth, however, let me point out that you can make costolette alla fontina costolette alla fontina in more modest versions that are absolutely delicious and much easier on the pocketbook. For instance, you can form veal scallopine into envelopes to enclose the fontina, or stuff a veal loin chop, a thick pork chop, or a plump chicken breast in place of the veal rib chop. You may have to adjust the amount of cheese you put inside, and adjust the cooking time at each step to avoid overcooking. But if your meat, wine, olive oil, tomato paste, and broth are of fine quality, and-most important-if you use real fontina (and Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), you will produce a splendid dish. in more modest versions that are absolutely delicious and much easier on the pocketbook. For instance, you can form veal scallopine into envelopes to enclose the fontina, or stuff a veal loin chop, a thick pork chop, or a plump chicken breast in place of the veal rib chop. You may have to adjust the amount of cheese you put inside, and adjust the cooking time at each step to avoid overcooking. But if your meat, wine, olive oil, tomato paste, and broth are of fine quality, and-most important-if you use real fontina (and Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), you will produce a splendid dish.