Cook different vegetables or meats with the rice: The procedures here for preparing rice with chicken, lentils, or squash will work with many seasonal vegetables, meats, or seafood. Green beans, fresh peas, favas, diced carrots, or cherry tomatoes would be delicious in the riso. Adjust the timing of the basic recipe so the vegetable is cooked when the rice is al dente. al dente. Similarly, you might add shrimp, diced cooked meats, salami, or prosciutto. Similarly, you might add shrimp, diced cooked meats, salami, or prosciutto.

Finish the rice with different cheeses (or with extra-virgin olive oil): I often give my no-stir rice dishes a finishing touch of b.u.t.ter to amalgamate the texture, and a final addition of grana grana-grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. For richness and complexity, you might add to rice dishes cup or so of either Taleggio or Gorgonzola cut in small pieces, along with the grana grana, since both of these great cheeses from Lombardy have a natural affinity with rice, in my opinion. For a seafood rice dish, however, I would use extra-virgin olive oil as my finish.

RICE & L & LENTILS.

Riso e Lenticchie Serves 8 or more as a first course or soup Serves 8 or more as a first course or soup Lentils and rice are one of my favorite combinations. I fondly recall savoring a dish just like this often as a child; it was comforting and nurturing. It can be enjoyed in many ways: make it dense like risotto or add more liquid to make it soupy. Just rice and lentils are delicious and simple, but you could easily add a few sausages or pork ribs to the pot to make quite a festive main dish.

- 2 ounces pancetta ounces pancetta or or bacon bacon, cut in pieces - 1 cup onion cup onion cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup carrot carrot cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup celery celery cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 6 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - cup dry white wine dry white wine - 8 to 10 cups hot water water - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cups lentils lentils, rinsed and picked over - 1 cups Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - 1 cup chopped scallions scallions - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed saucepan or soup pot, 5-to-6-quart capacity, with a cover Drop the pancetta or bacon pieces into the food-processor bowl, and pulse several times, to chop the meat into small bits. Sc.r.a.pe all the chopped pancetta right into the heavy saucepan. Put the onion, carrot, and celery chunks and the sage leaves into the empty food-processor bowl, and mince together into a fine-textured pestata. pestata.

Put the b.u.t.ter and olive oil into the saucepan with the minced pancetta, and set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, as the b.u.t.ter melts and the fat starts to render. When the pancetta is sizzling, sc.r.a.pe in the vegetable pestata pestata, and stir it around the pan until it has dried and begins to stick, 4 minutes or so. Clear a s.p.a.ce on the pan bottom, and drop in the tomato paste, toast it in the hot spot for a minute, then stir together with the pestata. pestata.

Raise the heat, pour in the white wine, and cook, stirring, until the wine has almost completely evaporated. Pour in 8 cups of hot water and the tablespoon salt, stir well, and heat to the boil. (Add all 10 cups of hot water if you want to serve the rice and lentils as a thick soup rather than a denser riso. riso.) Cover the pan, and reduce the heat slightly, to keep the water at a moderate boil, and let it bubble for 20 minutes or so, to develop the flavors.

Stir in the lentils, return to a gentle boil, and cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until the lentils just start to soften, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the rice, return to a bubbling simmer, and cook, cover ajar, until the rice is al dente al dente, 13 minutes or so. If the dish is thickening more than you like, lower the heat and cover the pan completely. If it seems too thin and wet, remove the cover and cook at a faster boil.

When the rice and lentils are fully cooked, turn off the heat. Stir in the scallions and grated cheese. Serve in warm bowls, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

A PERFECT P POT OF R RICE.

When you are cooking rice, whether by the traditional risotto or the no-stir method, I trust that you will use your senses, taste, and judgment even as you follow instructions. Particularly when your rice is cooking in a covered pot, you should regard the cooking time in the recipe as a guideline: as a guideline: the actual time it takes your rice to achieve optimal creaminess and the actual time it takes your rice to achieve optimal creaminess and al dente al dente texture will vary greatly, depending on how much liquid was added at the start, the size and kind of saucepan and the lid you use, what the other ingredients may be (such as meats or vegetables), the level of heat, and even the variety of rice. texture will vary greatly, depending on how much liquid was added at the start, the size and kind of saucepan and the lid you use, what the other ingredients may be (such as meats or vegetables), the level of heat, and even the variety of rice.

So, when your rice has cooked the suggested amount of time, remove the lid, give the rice a stir, and take a bite. If the rice is perfectly chewy and creamy, turn off the heat, and incorporate the finishing ingredients. If it is almost al dente al dente or just a bit loose, cook a couple more minutes, covered. or just a bit loose, cook a couple more minutes, covered.

But if the rice seems dry-especially if the grains are also undercooked-stir in cup hot water or stock, or more if necessary to loosen the rice, and cook, covered, over low heat for several more minutes, then taste again.

On the other hand, if the riso riso seems soupy-and the rice grains seems soupy-and the rice grains are are almost fully cooked-you want to evaporate excess liquid quickly by keeping the lid off, raising the heat, and cooking the rice, stirring constantly, until it thickens. almost fully cooked-you want to evaporate excess liquid quickly by keeping the lid off, raising the heat, and cooking the rice, stirring constantly, until it thickens.

RICE WITH F FRESH S SAGE.

Riso e Salvia Serves 6 or more as a first course or side dish Serves 6 or more as a first course or side dish When you want to enjoy a risotto-style rice but don't have the time for lots of prep and stirring, try this simple recipe. You'll get the creaminess and toothsome bite of the rice grains and the wonderful flavor of fresh sage, one of my favorite herbs-or use rosemary, thyme, basil, or any other fresh herb you like. This makes a great primo primo all by itself and can be a delicious accompaniment to grilled or braised meat or fish dishes. all by itself and can be a delicious accompaniment to grilled or braised meat or fish dishes.

I finish the rice with just a bit of b.u.t.ter and grated cheese, but you can add complexity by stirring in cubes of Taleggio or Gorgonzola, or any of your favorite cheeses. (And though I am happy to serve the rice with the sage leaves buried inside, you may pick them out, if you prefer, when the pot comes off the heat.) - 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter - 12 large fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 5 cups hot water water or or light stock light stock, plus more if needed - 2 teaspoons kosher salt - 2 cups Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - 1 bunch scallions scallions, finely chopped (about 1 cup) - FOR FINISHING - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, cut in pieces - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover Melt the 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in the saucepan over medium heat. When the b.u.t.ter is foaming, scatter the sage leaves in the pan and heat for a minute or so, just until they are sizzling. Pour in 5 cups of hot water or stock, and stir in the salt. Raise the heat, and bring the liquid to the boil, then stir in the rice and bring back to the boil.

Cover the pan, and lower the heat so the water is bubbling gently. Cook for 13 or 14 minutes, then check the rice and adjust the consistency if needed. At this point, too, stir in the scallions, to cook for the last minute or two, until the rice is creamy and al dente. al dente.

When the rice is fully cooked, turn off the heat, drop in the b.u.t.ter pieces, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated. Stir in the cup of grated cheese, spoon the riso riso into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table. into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table.

RICE L LOMBARDY-STYLE.

Riso alla Lombarda Serves 6 or more as a first course or side dish Serves 6 or more as a first course or side dish A warm comforting bowl of Riso alla Lombarda- Riso alla Lombarda-rice and cheese, with egg yolks stirred in for richness-has long been a family favorite in Lombardy, nourishing children for generations. It's a snap to make anytime and can serve as a lunch dish, a great primo primo, or a side for grilled chicken. For adult tastes, I suggest stirring in crumbled Gorgonzola along with the eggs and grated cheese. By the way, there's no need for concern about adding raw egg to the rice, as long as you do it as soon as the pan comes off the stove. The residual heat of the rice is more than sufficient to cook the yolks thoroughly.

- 5 cups hot water water or or light stock light stock, plus more if needed - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 cups Arborio rice Arborio rice - 2 large egg yolks egg yolks - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 5 ounces Gorgonzola Gorgonzola, crumbled into small pieces (optional) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover Put the water or stock, the b.u.t.ter, and the salt in the saucepan, set over high heat, and bring to the boil. Stir in the rice, and bring back to the boil.

Cover the pan, and lower the heat so the water is bubbling gently. Cook for about 14 minutes, until rice is al dente al dente with a creamy consistency like risotto, so you can easily stir in the egg yolks. Adjust the consistency if needed. with a creamy consistency like risotto, so you can easily stir in the egg yolks. Adjust the consistency if needed.

While the riso riso cooks, beat together the yolks and olive oil in a small bowl with a fork, then mix in cup of the grated cheese, to form a paste. cooks, beat together the yolks and olive oil in a small bowl with a fork, then mix in cup of the grated cheese, to form a paste.

When the rice is fully cooked, remove from the heat. Sc.r.a.pe in the egg-and-cheese paste, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated. Stir in the remaining grated cheese and the crumbled Gorgonzola, if you like, reserving some of the crumbles for a garnish.

Spoon the riso riso into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately. into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately.

RICE & B & b.u.t.tERNUT S SQUASH.

Riso e Zucca Serves 6 or more as a first course or side dish Serves 6 or more as a first course or side dish In autumn, Lombardy abounds in zucca- zucca-what we call "winter squash"-and the seasonal cuisine makes full use of the vegetable. Squashes of all sizes and shapes are in the market-favorite varieties like marina di chioggia, berettina piacentina, zucca tonda padana, zucca blu marina di chioggia, berettina piacentina, zucca tonda padana, zucca blu, and zucca delica- zucca delica-to be cooked in stuffings, soups, pasta sauces, and risotto. And, like many fruits and vegetables, zucca zucca is pickled with mustard seed to make the delicious condiment called is pickled with mustard seed to make the delicious condiment called mostarda mostarda, for which Lombardy-especially Cremona-is famous.

This riso riso will be delicious made with any of our squashes-try acorn, b.u.t.tercup, delicata, hubbard, or kabocha as well as b.u.t.ternut. The fresh vegetables of other seasons can be used, too, following the basic technique of the recipe. Asparagus in springtime or broccoli in summer will be delicious cooked with rice. will be delicious made with any of our squashes-try acorn, b.u.t.tercup, delicata, hubbard, or kabocha as well as b.u.t.ternut. The fresh vegetables of other seasons can be used, too, following the basic technique of the recipe. Asparagus in springtime or broccoli in summer will be delicious cooked with rice.

- 2 pounds b.u.t.ternut squash b.u.t.ternut squash - 1 cup onion onion cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup carrot carrot cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup celery celery cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 5 cups hot water water or or light stock light stock, plus more if needed - 2 cups Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - FOR FINISHING - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, cut in pieces - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover Trim, peel, and remove seeds from the squash. Cut it into -inch cubes.

Using a food processor, mince the onion, carrot, and celery chunks to a fine-textured paste (pestata).

Put the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in the saucepan and set over medium heat. When the b.u.t.ter is melted, sc.r.a.pe in the pestata pestata and season with teaspoon of the salt. Cook the and season with teaspoon of the salt. Cook the pestata pestata for about 5 minutes, stirring it around the bottom of the pan, until it has dried out and just begins to stick. for about 5 minutes, stirring it around the bottom of the pan, until it has dried out and just begins to stick.

Pour in the hot water or stock, and bring to a boil. Drop in the squash, then all the rice, stirring, and remaining salt. Return the liquid to the boil, cover the pan, and reduce the heat to keep the riso riso bubbling gently. Cook for about 14 minutes, until the rice and the squash are cooked and creamy. bubbling gently. Cook for about 14 minutes, until the rice and the squash are cooked and creamy.

Turn off the heat, drop in the b.u.t.ter pieces, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated. Stir in the cup of grated cheese, spoon the riso riso into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table. into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table.

TRADITIONAL R RICE & C & CHICKEN.

Riso alla Pitocca Serves 4 to 6 Serves 4 to 6 This venerable Lombard specialty belies its literal name. Pitocchi Pitocchi (taken from the Greek word for "poor") were beggars who roamed the Padana lowlands during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries seeking sustenance; presumably a plain rice dish was what they got. Though simple to prepare, today's (taken from the Greek word for "poor") were beggars who roamed the Padana lowlands during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries seeking sustenance; presumably a plain rice dish was what they got. Though simple to prepare, today's riso alla pitocca riso alla pitocca is far from meager. Quite the contrary, it is rich in flavor from the is far from meager. Quite the contrary, it is rich in flavor from the pestata pestata base and loaded with succulent chicken chunks. base and loaded with succulent chicken chunks.

- 1 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs chicken thighs - 1 cup onion onion cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup carrot carrot cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup celery celery cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 fresh bay leaf bay leaf - 1 cup dry white wine white wine - 5 cups hot chicken or turkey stock chicken or turkey stock, plus more if needed - 2 cups Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - FOR FINISHING - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter cut in pieces cut in pieces - 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover Trim any excess fat from the chicken thighs, and cut them into 1-inch chunks.

Using a food processor, mince the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic into a fine-textured pestata. pestata. Pour the olive oil in the saucepan, and set over medium-high heat. Stir in the Pour the olive oil in the saucepan, and set over medium-high heat. Stir in the pestata pestata, and season with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the pestata pestata has dried and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan. has dried and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan.

Toss in the chicken, bay leaf, and the remaining salt. Tumble and stir the chicken in the pan until browned and caramelized all over, about 4 minutes. Raise the heat, pour in the white wine, and cook, stirring and sc.r.a.ping up the browned bits in the pan, until the wine has almost evaporated.

Pour in the hot stock, stirring, then all the rice. Bring to the boil over high heat, cover the pan, and reduce the heat to keep the riso riso bubbling gently. Cook for about 14 minutes, or until both the rice and the chicken chunks are fully cooked and the consistency is creamy. bubbling gently. Cook for about 14 minutes, or until both the rice and the chicken chunks are fully cooked and the consistency is creamy.

Turn off the heat, drop in the b.u.t.ter pieces, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated, then stir in the parsley and cup of grated cheese. Spoon the riso into warm pasta bowls and serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table.

RISOTTO WITH G GORGONZOLA.

Risotto alla Gorgonzola Serves 6 Serves 6 This traditional risotto is a showcase for two of the great foods of Lombardy: the rice itself and Gorgonzola, the region's superb blue cheese. Here the cheese is more than a garnish (which I recommend in other riso riso recipes); it is the very essence of the dish. You blend in a generous half-pound of Gorgonzola just before serving, when the recipes); it is the very essence of the dish. You blend in a generous half-pound of Gorgonzola just before serving, when the al dente al dente risotto comes off the heat, to bring out the full flavor of the cheese, unaltered by cooking. This deserves a top-quality, genuine imported Gorgonzola, preferably not too piquant. I like sweet and creamy Gorgonzola Dolce, aged no more than 3 months. risotto comes off the heat, to bring out the full flavor of the cheese, unaltered by cooking. This deserves a top-quality, genuine imported Gorgonzola, preferably not too piquant. I like sweet and creamy Gorgonzola Dolce, aged no more than 3 months.

In Lombardy, chunks of fresh ripe pear are sometimes incorporated into risotto alla Gorgonzola. risotto alla Gorgonzola. When pears are in season, it is easy to give the basic risotto this wonderful embellishment. Peel and cut ripe pears into about 2 cups of small cubes. When the rice is almost done, gently stir in the pears, and cook for just a minute. Turn off the heat, and finish the risotto with Gorgonzola and When pears are in season, it is easy to give the basic risotto this wonderful embellishment. Peel and cut ripe pears into about 2 cups of small cubes. When the rice is almost done, gently stir in the pears, and cook for just a minute. Turn off the heat, and finish the risotto with Gorgonzola and grana grana, as detailed below.

- 6 to 8 cups hot chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 cups finely chopped onions onions - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 cups Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - 1 cup dry white wine white wine - 8 ounces imported Italian Gorgonzola Dolce Gorgonzola Dolce (aged no more than 3 months), cut into small pieces (aged no more than 3 months), cut into small pieces - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover Heat the stock in a separate pot almost to the boil. Keep it very hot, near the risotto pan.

Put the olive oil in the risotto pan, and set over medium heat. Add the onions and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are wilted and just starting to color, about 6 minutes. Add the rice all at once, raise the heat, and stir for a couple of minutes, until the grains are toasted (but not browned). Pour in the wine, and cook, stirring continuously, until nearly all of the liquid has been absorbed.

Ladle in 2 cups of the hot stock, and stir steadily as the rice absorbs the liquid and begins to release its starch. When you can see the bottom of the pan as you stir, after 5 minutes or so, quickly ladle in another couple of cups of stock and the remaining teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until the stock again is almost completely absorbed, and then ladle in another cup or so of stock. Continue this process, and check the risotto for doneness after about 6 cups of stock have been added, at about the 15-to-20-minute mark. Add more stock if needed, and cook until the risotto is creamy but still al dente. al dente.

Turn off the heat. Scatter the pieces of Gorgonzola over the risotto, saving a few spoonfuls for a garnish. Sprinkle over it cup of grated grana grana, and stir both cheeses into the risotto until incorporated. Spoon into warm pasta bowls, scatter the reserved bits of Gorgonzola over the top, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing more grated cheese at the table.

Ronconbello, Bergamo RISOTTO M MILAN-STYLE WITH M MARROW & S & SAFFRON.

Risotto alla Milanese Serves 6 Serves 6 Risotto alla Milanese, which my chefs and I researched (and devoured) on our culinary expedition to Milano in 2008, has apparently been a signature dish of the city for over two centuries. A recipe for it appeared in the volume Cuoco Moderno-Modern Cook- Cuoco Moderno-Modern Cook-published in Milano in 1809, by a mysterious author identified as "L.O.G." His version had almost identical elements to today's recipes: rice cooked in b.u.t.ter with onions, bone marrow, cervellato cervellato (a type of salami), good beef stock, and, at the end, the addition of saffron. Almost 100 years later, the revered authority Pellegrino Artusi included in his cla.s.sic collection of Italian recipes a nearly identical (a type of salami), good beef stock, and, at the end, the addition of saffron. Almost 100 years later, the revered authority Pellegrino Artusi included in his cla.s.sic collection of Italian recipes a nearly identical risotto alla Milanese risotto alla Milanese, including white wine in the preparation. In twenty-first-century Milano, Artusi's techniques and ingredients are still the standard (though usually cervellato cervellato is omitted). is omitted).

I encourage you to use good beef stock and excellent fresh beef marrow bones to make a truly delicious risotto alla Milanese. risotto alla Milanese. The stock can be homemade or store-bought-low-sodium and organic if possible; otherwise, you could subst.i.tute chicken or turkey broth. To get the best marrow, ask the butcher for marrow bones cut from the center of the leg bone above the shank. Sc.r.a.ping out the marrow and cooking it is easy. If you've never done it, you will see that, as the marrow renders its delicious fat, brown carmelized specks appear. They could be strained out, but I don't advise it; they provide great flavor, and traditional The stock can be homemade or store-bought-low-sodium and organic if possible; otherwise, you could subst.i.tute chicken or turkey broth. To get the best marrow, ask the butcher for marrow bones cut from the center of the leg bone above the shank. Sc.r.a.ping out the marrow and cooking it is easy. If you've never done it, you will see that, as the marrow renders its delicious fat, brown carmelized specks appear. They could be strained out, but I don't advise it; they provide great flavor, and traditional risotto alla Milanese risotto alla Milanese incorporates them. incorporates them.

- 6 to 8 cups hot beef stock beef stock (chicken or turkey broth could be subst.i.tuted) (chicken or turkey broth could be subst.i.tuted) - teaspoon loosely packed saffron saffron threads threads - 1 pounds beef marrow bones beef marrow bones, preferably center-cut from the leg bone - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil - 2 cups finely chopped onions - 1 teaspoons kosher salt - 2 cups Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - 1 cup dry white wine white wine - FOR FINISHING - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, cut in pieces - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10 inches wide, 3-to-4-quart capacity Heat the stock in a separate pot almost to the boil, and keep it very hot, near the risotto pan.

Pour about cup of the stock into a heatproof cup. To toast the saffron (for more flavor): Drop the strands into the bowl of a metal spoon, separating them a bit. Hold the spoon over a low open flame for just a few seconds, until the aroma is released, then spill the threads into the cup stock. Let them steep in a warm place.

Sc.r.a.pe the marrow out of the bones with a st.u.r.dy paring knife-don't sc.r.a.pe off any bits of bone (if you do, pick them out). Chop the marrow into little pieces: you should have about cup total.

Put the olive oil and marrow bits in the heavy saucepan, and set it over medium heat. As the marrow melts, stir in the chopped onions and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for several minutes, until the onions are wilted and just starting to color, then-to soften the onions further-ladle in cup hot stock from the pot and let it simmer until completely evaporated. Add the rice all at once, raise the heat, and stir for a couple of minutes, until the grains are toasted (but not browned). Pour in the wine, and cook, stirring continuously, until nearly all of the liquid has been absorbed.

Ladle in 2 cups of the hot stock, and stir steadily as the rice absorbs the liquid and begins to release its starch. When you can see the bottom of the pan as you stir, after 5 minutes or so, quickly ladle in another couple of cups of stock and the remaining teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until the stock is again almost completely absorbed.

Now pour in the saffron-infused stock along with a cup or so of hot stock from the pot. Cook, stirring, until the liquid is absorbed and the saffron color has spread. Check the risotto for doneness: it should be creamy but still al dente. al dente. Incorporate more stock if necessary. Incorporate more stock if necessary.

When the risotto is fully cooked, turn off the heat, drop in the b.u.t.ter pieces, and stir vigorously until thoroughly amalgamated. Stir in the cup of grated cheese, and spoon into warm pasta bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing additional grated cheese at the table.

BRAISED S STUFFED C CABBAGE R ROLLS.

Polpette di Verza Serves 6 Serves 6 In Lombardy, where it's often cold and foggy, cabbage grows well in the fertile soil and is used in many dishes. The common type here, as all across northern Italy, is the Savoy cabbage-the name suggests its probable origins in neighboring Piemonte, which was once ruled by the Casa Savoia ("House of Savoy"). The loose, wrinkled leaves of the Savoy are great for stuffing, because they're easy to separate and roll. And they're delicious in this wonderful dish, mellow and tender but still st.u.r.dy enough to hold the sausage-and-vegetable filling.

Cabbage rolls are very much part of my culinary heritage. My family grew Savoy cabbage, and I grew up on sarme sarme, the Istrian interpretation of stuffed cabbage. Sarme Sarme are a more sour preparation, since the cooking on the eastern edge of Italy had many Slavic and Eastern European influences. The are a more sour preparation, since the cooking on the eastern edge of Italy had many Slavic and Eastern European influences. The polpette di verza polpette di verza of Lombardy are sweeter (though the wine in this recipe provides a nice balance). of Lombardy are sweeter (though the wine in this recipe provides a nice balance).

Whatever the differences, I love all kinds of stuffed cabbage, and love to serve them at special family occasions. These polpette polpette make a fine appetizer as well as a main course. I serve the rolls in a warm bowl, so the sauce can be scooped up with each bite. For a main dish, accompany them with make a fine appetizer as well as a main course. I serve the rolls in a warm bowl, so the sauce can be scooped up with each bite. For a main dish, accompany them with Riso alla Lombarda Riso alla Lombarda, polenta, or mashed potatoes.

- FOR THE PESTATA PESTATA AND STUFFING AND STUFFING - 2 cups milk milk - 4 ounces dry country bread country bread cubes (about 4 cups) cubes (about 4 cups) - 2 ounces pancetta pancetta, cut in pieces - 1 large onion onion, cut in chunks - 1 large carrot carrot, cut in chunks - 1 large stalk celery celery, cut in chunks - 3 plump garlic cloves garlic cloves, peeled - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 pounds sweet Italian sausage sweet Italian sausage (without fennel seeds), loose or removed from casings and crumbled (without fennel seeds), loose or removed from casings and crumbled - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup dry white wine white wine - 1 large egg egg, lightly beaten - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano or Parmigiano-Reggiano - FOR THE CABBAGE ROLLS AND SAUCE - 1 medium head Savoy cabbage Savoy cabbage (about 2 pounds) (about 2 pounds) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 3 cups dry white wine white wine - 4 cups or so hot chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed saute pan or deep skillet with 4-inch sides, 13-inch diameter or wider, with a cover; a big pot for blanching the cabbage leaves To make the stuffing: Pour the milk over the bread chunks in a bowl, and let them soak for a few minutes, until completely saturated.

Using a food processor, mince the pancetta, onion, carrot, celery, and garlic into a fine-textured pestata. pestata. You should have about 2 cups total. You should have about 2 cups total.

Pour the 3 tablespoons of olive oil into the heavy pan, and set over medium-high heat. Sc.r.a.pe in cup of pestata pestata, and cook for a few minutes, stirring frequently, until it starts to dry and stick on the pan bottom. Crumble the sausage into the skillet, and cook, stirring, until all the meat is sizzling and no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt, and pour in the white wine. Bring to a boil, and cook until the wine has evaporated completely. Remove from the heat, and immediately sc.r.a.pe the sausage into a large bowl to cool.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375. Fill the big pot with water, and bring to a boil.

When the meat has cooled, squeeze the milk from the soaked bread (catch it in the bowl, and use it for another purpose). Crumble the softened bread over the sausage, and combine them with your hands, then work in the beaten egg, chopped parsley, and grated cheese, tossing all together into a loose stuffing.

To prepare the cabbage: Pull off and discard any bruised or torn outer leaves. Cut out the core of the cabbage, and separate the largest leaves from the head, keeping them intact. Lay each leaf flat, outside up, and with a sharp paring knife shave off the raised ridge of the rib at the leaf base. When you've trimmed twelve good-sized leaves (and a few extra) for the rolls, slice the remaining cl.u.s.ter of small inner leaves into shreds about inch wide.

Drop the big, trimmed leaves into the boiling water, and blanch them until soft and quite floppy, about 7 minutes. Cool them in a bowl of icy water; drain well, lay them on paper towels, and pat dry.

Return the big saute pan to the stove (wipe out any browned bits), pour in the cup olive oil, and turn on medium-high heat. Stir in the remaining pestata pestata, and cook until dried and sticking, about 4 minutes. Toss in all the shredded cabbage and 2 teaspoons salt, and cook, stirring, until the cabbage starts to wilt. Pour in the white wine, raise the heat to bring it to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes or so, to blend the flavors.

As the sauce simmers, make the cabbage rolls. Lay out each softened leaf with its shaved rib side down. Take about cup of stuffing in your fingers, form it into a plump log, and lay it on the leaf. Roll the bottom of the leaf over the filling, tuck the sides in, and roll up tightly the rest of the way.

When all the polpette polpette are formed, lower the heat under the sauce and place each roll in the saute pan, seam side down. Pour in the stock, submerging the rolls, heat to a bubbling boil, and put on the pan lid. Set the pan in the oven to braise the rolls for an hour. Remove the lid, and push the rolls down in the sauce, which will have reduced. Bake, uncovered, for another 30 minutes or so, until the sauce has reduced and thickened and the tops of the rolls are nicely caramelized. are formed, lower the heat under the sauce and place each roll in the saute pan, seam side down. Pour in the stock, submerging the rolls, heat to a bubbling boil, and put on the pan lid. Set the pan in the oven to braise the rolls for an hour. Remove the lid, and push the rolls down in the sauce, which will have reduced. Bake, uncovered, for another 30 minutes or so, until the sauce has reduced and thickened and the tops of the rolls are nicely caramelized.

Serve in a warm bowl with some of the sauce, accompanied by rice, potatoes, or polenta.

EVERYDAY R ROASTED D DUCK.

Anatra Povera Serves 4 to 6 Serves 4 to 6 This crispy-skinned duck is delicious but definitely not fancy. Povera Povera means "poor," and this is a rustic family-style dish, with relatively few ingredients and simple preparation. The duck is roasted whole and basted with a whisked-together dressing of lemon juice, wine, and olive oil. It crisps up beautifully, and the pan juices make a great sauce. means "poor," and this is a rustic family-style dish, with relatively few ingredients and simple preparation. The duck is roasted whole and basted with a whisked-together dressing of lemon juice, wine, and olive oil. It crisps up beautifully, and the pan juices make a great sauce.

You don't have to fuss much with the serving, either. For a family meal, I chop the bird into small pieces, pile them up on a platter-neck and giblets, too-and let people pick the pieces they like. (Fingers are fine for this, so plenty of moist towels on the table are handy.) For a more orderly dinner, the duck can be quartered to serve four nicely. Riso e Lenticchie- Riso e Lenticchie-Rice and Lentils, braised greens, or just a tossed salad would be good with it.

- 1 whole duck duck, about 5 pounds, with giblets and neck - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 4 sprigs fresh rosemary rosemary - 1 cup dry white wine dry white wine - cup freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice (from 3 or 4 large lemons) (from 3 or 4 large lemons) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 to 2 cups light poultry (or vegetable) stock light poultry (or vegetable) stock RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: Kitchen twine; heavy-duty flameproof roasting pan with a flat wire roasting rack, preferably just big enough to hold the duck with an inch or so empty s.p.a.ce around it; a fat-separating measuring cup (2 cups or larger); poultry shears or heavy knife for splitting the duck Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven, and heat to 400.

Remove all clods of fat from the duck cavities, and trim any loose flaps of skin. Rinse the bird, including the giblets and neck, and pat dry with paper towels.

Sprinkle a teaspoon of the salt inside the belly cavity, and push in the rosemary sprigs. With the breast side up, twist and fold the wing tips so they stay in place under the bird. Cross the legs over the cavity opening and tie the ends together tightly with kitchen twine. Chop the duck neck into two or three pieces, and scatter in the bottom of the pan, along with the giblets, under or around the wire rack. Set the duck, breast side up, on the roasting rack in the pan.

Whisk the wine, lemon juice, and olive oil vigorously together until emulsified, and pour this all over the duck skin. Sprinkle the remaining 2 teaspoons salt over the bird, making sure that the sides are moistened and salted as well as the breast.

Roast the duck for an hour, breast up, then baste it all over with the pan juices, using a bulb baster or large spoon-tilt the roasting pan carefully to scoop up the liquid. Continue to roast for another 1 to 1 hours, basting the bird every 30 minutes or so, until it is dark gold and very crisp all over.

Remove the duck to a platter, take out the rack, and gather the giblets and neck pieces onto the platter, too. Carefully pour the hot juices from the pan into a fat separator (or other heatproof container), and let the fat gather on top. Pour the good juices out of the separator into the roasting pan-if you don't have a separator, spoon off all the fat first-then pour in a cup or more of stock, so you have at least 1 cups of liquid to deglaze the pan and cook into a sauce.

Set the roasting pan over medium-high heat on top of the stove, and bring the liquids to a boil, vigorously sc.r.a.ping up all the caramelized bits on the bottom of the pan. Let the juices reduce until slightly thickened and flavorful, then turn off the heat.

In the meantime cut up the duck into small pieces to serve family-style: First split open the breast, cutting through the center of the breast bone with poultry shears or a chef's knife. Cut along the backbone to divide the bird in half, then slice each half into a wing, leg, thigh, and two or three breast pieces. Pile the cut pieces on a serving platter, along with the roasted neck and giblet morsels. Keep warm, and when the sauce is ready pour the pan sauce all over. Let people take the pieces they like the most.

To quarter the duck to serve four: Split it in two as above, cutting along both sides of the backbone so it can be removed. Divide each duck half into a breast piece and a joined leg and thigh, set each quarter on a warm dinner plate, and nap with the pan sauce.

SKILLET-BRAISED C CHICKEN B BUNDLES.

f.a.gottini di Pollo Serves 6 Serves 6 f.a.gottini di pollo means "little chicken bundles"-and that's what these are. Boneless chicken thighs are slightly flattened, wrapped around a savory vegetable means "little chicken bundles"-and that's what these are. Boneless chicken thighs are slightly flattened, wrapped around a savory vegetable pestata pestata, and kept in shape with a strip of bacon and a toothpick. They're braised in a big skillet, and finally topped with cheese and baked briefly, to get a crisp gratinato gratinato topping. You will love topping. You will love f.a.gottini di pollo f.a.gottini di pollo, I am sure!

You will also see why these make a great party dish, since they're convenient for a buffet. You can braise them largely in advance-in fact, the flavor improves with resting. Then set them on baking pans, sauced and topped with grated cheese; refrigerate if necessary. When you are ready to serve, simply put the pan in the hot oven to heat them and create the crunchy gratinato gratinato effect. effect.

Be flexible forming your bundles, since chickens vary in size greatly. If the thighs are small, make more bundles per serving and adjust the stuffing amount and the cooking time accordingly.

What to serve with f.a.gottini di pollo f.a.gottini di pollo? Since they have such a nice sauce, I recommend polenta, Riso alla Lombarda Riso alla Lombarda, Riso e Salvia Riso e Salvia, or just plain mashed potatoes.

- 1 medium onion onion, cut in chunks - 1 large carrot carrot, cut in chunks - 1 large stalk celery celery, cut in chunks - 10 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs chicken thighs, preferably 6 to 8 large thighs - 6 or more thin-sliced strips bacon bacon, preferably 2 inches wide - 2 cups dry white wine dry white wine - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 2 to 3 tablespoons grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed, ovenproof skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover; toothpicks Using a food processor, mince the onion, carrot, celery, 4 sage leaves, and the garlic into a fine-textured pestata. pestata. Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, and set over medium heat. Stir the Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, and set over medium heat. Stir the pestata pestata into the oil, season with teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until it has wilted and just starts to stick to the pan bottom. Sc.r.a.pe all of the into the oil, season with teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until it has wilted and just starts to stick to the pan bottom. Sc.r.a.pe all of the pestata pestata into a bowl to cool. into a bowl to cool.

Trim the chicken thighs of fat and any loose bits of flesh, and lay them open, boned side up, on a cutting board. One at a time, cover each thigh with a piece of plastic wrap, and pound it with a meat mallet (or other heavy implement) to an even thickness of about inch. Sprinkle salt lightly on the flattened sides, using another teaspoon in all.

Spread a tablespoon or so of the cooled pestata pestata in a thin layer on each thigh, almost to the edges-use more or less depending on size. Fold the thighs over into thirds, as if folding a letter, and compress gently. Wrap a strip of bacon the long way around each bundle, so the open sides are partly sealed. Overlap the ends of the bacon and thread a toothpick through them to hold the strip in place. in a thin layer on each thigh, almost to the edges-use more or less depending on size. Fold the thighs over into thirds, as if folding a letter, and compress gently. Wrap a strip of bacon the long way around each bundle, so the open sides are partly sealed. Overlap the ends of the bacon and thread a toothpick through them to hold the strip in place.

Pour the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil into the big skillet-cleaned of pestata pestata-and set over medium-high heat. Lay all the chicken bundles in the pan, turning them when the bacon starts sizzling and rendering fat. Saute the f.a.gottini f.a.gottini for 5 minutes or longer, turning several times, so the bacon and chicken are lightly caramelized all over. As they brown, drop the remaining for 5 minutes or longer, turning several times, so the bacon and chicken are lightly caramelized all over. As they brown, drop the remaining pestata pestata by spoonfuls in between the bundles, along with the rest of the sage leaves, to cook on the pan bottom. by spoonfuls in between the bundles, along with the rest of the sage leaves, to cook on the pan bottom.

When everything is sizzling, pour in the wine and bring to a bubbling simmer. Cook until the wine has reduced by half, turning the f.a.gottini f.a.gottini occasionally. Pour the crushed tomatoes (and juices) all over the bundles, and shake the pan to mix them with the wine. Season with the remaining teaspoon of salt, and bring the braising liquid to a boil over high heat. Cover the pan, adjust the heat to keep things bubbling steadily, and braise until the thighs are cooked through and tender, 25 to 30 minutes, depending on size. (If you're not sure, slice discreetly into one of the bundles to check for doneness.) occasionally. Pour the crushed tomatoes (and juices) all over the bundles, and shake the pan to mix them with the wine. Season with the remaining teaspoon of salt, and bring the braising liquid to a boil over high heat. Cover the pan, adjust the heat to keep things bubbling steadily, and braise until the thighs are cooked through and tender, 25 to 30 minutes, depending on size. (If you're not sure, slice discreetly into one of the bundles to check for doneness.) If you want to finish the f.a.gottini f.a.gottini with a crisp with a crisp gratinato gratinato topping, arrange a rack in the top part of your oven and preheat to 425 while the chicken braises. When the meat is done, uncover the skillet, raise the heat, and reduce the braising liquid a bit, exposing the tops of the thighs. Turn off the heat, and carefully pull the toothpicks out of the bundles. Sprinkle a teaspoon or so of grated cheese over each, and set the skillet in the oven. Bake about 10 minutes, until the topping, arrange a rack in the top part of your oven and preheat to 425 while the chicken braises. When the meat is done, uncover the skillet, raise the heat, and reduce the braising liquid a bit, exposing the tops of the thighs. Turn off the heat, and carefully pull the toothpicks out of the bundles. Sprinkle a teaspoon or so of grated cheese over each, and set the skillet in the oven. Bake about 10 minutes, until the gratinato gratinato is golden, the bacon very crisp, and the sauce quite thick. Remove from the oven carefully. is golden, the bacon very crisp, and the sauce quite thick. Remove from the oven carefully.

To finish the f.a.gottini f.a.gottini on the stovetop: Reduce the braising juices in the uncovered pan a bit longer, until thickened to a sauce. Turn off the heat, pull out the toothpicks, sprinkle a teaspoon cheese over each, and set the cover back on for a minute, to melt the cheese. on the stovetop: Reduce the braising juices in the uncovered pan a bit longer, until thickened to a sauce. Turn off the heat, pull out the toothpicks, sprinkle a teaspoon cheese over each, and set the cover back on for a minute, to melt the cheese.

To serve the f.a.gottini: f.a.gottini: set one (or more if they're small) on a serving plate with sauce spooned around the hot bundle. set one (or more if they're small) on a serving plate with sauce spooned around the hot bundle.

BRAISED V VEAL S SHANKS.

Ossobuco alla Milanese Serves 6 Serves 6 I can understand why my chefs were focused on ossobuco alla Milanese ossobuco alla Milanese when we visited Milano in 2008, and why so many readers, viewers, and customers at my restaurants tell me it is one of their favorite dishes-in any cuisine. It is, to me, a perfect symphony of flavors and textures and colors: the luscious veal shank meat falling off the marrow bones, the marrow seeping into saffron-infused risotto, the dense sauce moistening meat and grain. And all the richness is enhanced by the counterpoint of a vibrant when we visited Milano in 2008, and why so many readers, viewers, and customers at my restaurants tell me it is one of their favorite dishes-in any cuisine. It is, to me, a perfect symphony of flavors and textures and colors: the luscious veal shank meat falling off the marrow bones, the marrow seeping into saffron-infused risotto, the dense sauce moistening meat and grain. And all the richness is enhanced by the counterpoint of a vibrant gremolata gremolata topping of fresh garlic, lemon, and parsley. topping of fresh garlic, lemon, and parsley.

Fortunately, a trip to Milan is not necessary to enjoy this grand meal. With this recipe (and the one for the risotto), the mult.i.tude of pleasures in preparing, serving, and eating an authentic ossobuco alla Milanese ossobuco alla Milanese will be yours at home. The most work may be finding a butcher who can supply the "tall" will be yours at home. The most work may be finding a butcher who can supply the "tall" ossobuco ossobuco I recommend: ask to have the shanks cut so each I recommend: ask to have the shanks cut so each ossobuco ossobuco is nearly 3 inches high (when standing on end). If necessary, you can use the flatter-and-wider-cut is nearly 3 inches high (when standing on end). If necessary, you can use the flatter-and-wider-cut ossobuco ossobuco you usually see in the market. Be aware, though, that the meat will cook more quickly and you will need to reduce the sauce ingredients so the you usually see in the market. Be aware, though, that the meat will cook more quickly and you will need to reduce the sauce ingredients so the ossobuco ossobuco does not drown in the braising liquid. does not drown in the braising liquid.