Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy.

A Feast of 175 Regional Recipes.

by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich.

INTRODUCTION.

THERE IS NO MORE APPROPRIATE TIME THAN NOW TO THINK ABOUT HOW AND WHY WE cook. Why does cooking give us so much satisfaction? Yes, it nourishes us, we enjoy savoring it and feel physically good when we have eaten and are satiated. But the cooking and sharing of food has much more to say to us than "You are full and feel good." Food is a way of connecting with the people who surround us. Through food we communicate love, compa.s.sion, and understanding. The sharing of dishes together at the table opens doors for us to penetrate the thoughts of those around us. There is no better opportunity to communicate with our children than at the table, to discuss values of life that are important to us as individuals, as a family, and as a part of the world we live in. Our approach to food, our respect for and understanding of the ingredients we work with, will dictate our future survival. Will there be enough available for the generations to come? Will the world survive? cook. Why does cooking give us so much satisfaction? Yes, it nourishes us, we enjoy savoring it and feel physically good when we have eaten and are satiated. But the cooking and sharing of food has much more to say to us than "You are full and feel good." Food is a way of connecting with the people who surround us. Through food we communicate love, compa.s.sion, and understanding. The sharing of dishes together at the table opens doors for us to penetrate the thoughts of those around us. There is no better opportunity to communicate with our children than at the table, to discuss values of life that are important to us as individuals, as a family, and as a part of the world we live in. Our approach to food, our respect for and understanding of the ingredients we work with, will dictate our future survival. Will there be enough available for the generations to come? Will the world survive?

As overconsumption and greed have come to haunt us, it is now a time for reflection, for looking back at the generations before us, to understand their approach to the table. In my research into the twelve regions of Italy that I explore here, some answers came to light. The recipes I share with you reflect a respect for food-growing it, shepherding the animals, foraging for the gifts of nature in the wild, and hunting respectfully to put nourishing meat on the table, not just for sport. Nothing is wasted. Bread is recycled and used in soups, ca.s.seroles, lasagnas, and desserts. Water is carefully conserved; for instance, the same water in which vegetables are cooked is used to cook the pasta that follows, and then that is saved for soups or for making risotto. The fat that is rendered is used as a base for a soup or a pasta or a braised dish. The outer leaves of cauliflower and broccoli and the stalks of Swiss chard are all included in a meal. When an animal is sacrificed for our food, all of the animal parts are used, not just the breast of the chicken wrapped tightly in plastic wrap. The legs, neck, and wings make a great soup. The liver, heart, and gizzards make a great frittata or pasta sauce. And there is nothing better than a whole chicken, perfectly roasted, or a chicken cut in pieces and turned into a chicken cacciatore with drumsticks, wings, neck, and thighs all there to nibble on.

This kind of respect for the foods we prepare also leads to a much more sensible and balanced intake of proteins, legumes, vegetables, and so on. In most of the recipes in this book, it is evident that the dish is rooted in the reality of the times, when frugality went along with hard work, and home cooks made do with what was on hand. And, of course, they wanted dishes that would taste good. So you'll find these recipes tasty, satisfying, relatively easy to prepare. But, most of all, they are a testimony to the harmony of elements that result in a harmony of taste.

"Waste not, want not," and make it delicious.

Lidia Matticchio Bastianich

Overleaf: A valley in Trentino-Alto Adige

THE FIRST TIME I CAME TO THIS MAGNIFICENT REGION WAS IN 1969. My son, Joseph, was just nine months old, and we were determined to get him-and later his sister, born in 1972-to the old country during the first years of their lives and every year thereafter, so that they could connect with their roots. We wanted them to absorb the tastes of the indigenous foods, the language and the music, and the ways of the Italian people.

TrentinoAlto Adige is a region that is split into two provinces. Around the city of Trento, to the south, the language and the culture have long been Italian, whereas in Alto Adige, around the city of Bolzano, to the north, the region has absorbed the German culture.

That year we had bought a Mercedes 220 diesel, and to save money we went to the factory in Stuttgart, Germany, to pick it up. It was a long drive back to Italy, up and down the Alps, and we crossed the border at the Brenner Pa.s.s. Today there is a tunnel, and easier routes, but for us then it was a real high-alt.i.tude experience, with snow in July. We headed toward Trento and then turned into the Val Sugana, one of the most beautiful valleys, surrounded by peaks. There are little towns scattered around the mountainsides, each with a steeple, around which are huddled beautiful wooden chalets with vibrant flowers cascading from their balconies.

During that first trip, we stayed for a few days in the Val Sugana, at a small family-run inn where we had some of the most gratifying meals. The first night included Beef Rolls with Mustard and Vegetables, and Whole-Grain Spaetzle to mop up the sauce. To go along with this hearty fare, we had a pitcher of beer and some simple Baked Apples for dessert. By this time Joe had fallen asleep, and we carried him to our room, where the windows looked out onto the main street. Suddenly the sound of an oompah band exploded into the night. I felt transported to my childhood, and from our window we joined in the singing as Joe slept on.

Throughout this mountainous region, the food is rustic and the people, weathered by the climate, are disciplined and efficient. Every bit of land is used, and when it yields its harvest, the abundance of flavors is doubly appreciated and the whole community gets together to celebrate. Nothing is wasted, and during the months of plenty the women are busy putting up horseradish and other condiments and curing meats to be consumed by the hearthside during the cold months ahead.

The lush pastures in the Asiago High Plateau, where cattle have been grazing since the Middle Ages, are responsible for the delicious cheese Asiago, which is also produced in the Veneto. Two kinds are made here in TrentinoAlto Adige: fresh Asiago, also known as pressato pressato, made from whole milk that has been aged, and the mature Asiago d'Allevo, which is made from partially skimmed milk and then aged anywhere from three months to a year. The younger cheese is popular as a table cheese with fruit, especially apples, and slices of dark Bauernbrot Bauernbrot and crispy rye flatbread. Young Asiago is also delicious tossed in a salad, including the Country Salad, whereas the Asiago d'Allevo, depending on how long it has aged, is used primarily for appetizers, grating on soups and pastas, and in stuffings. and crispy rye flatbread. Young Asiago is also delicious tossed in a salad, including the Country Salad, whereas the Asiago d'Allevo, depending on how long it has aged, is used primarily for appetizers, grating on soups and pastas, and in stuffings.

I and my children, now with their children, have returned to this region periodically over the years. In 2005, my friend Mario Piccozzi, with whom I often travel through Italy, invited me to visit his summer home in Merano to experience his favorite spots in TrentinoAlto Adige. Merano is a beautiful citadel situated on the Adige River, and we took long walks and admired the beautiful buildings adorned with decorative paintings. We also enjoyed some great hiking to the north of Merano and a.s.suaged our appet.i.tes in Tirolo, the Tirol, where we had many a platter of sliced speck (smoked air-cured pork), deliciously sweet and smoky. We also had an unusual but delightful Cabbage Salad with Speck and oversized Dumplings with Speck-Canederli di Speck. In the north of Italy it is common to make gnocchi from stale bread, but the canederli canederli are a much-magnified version, and particularly delicious when they are made with speck. Speck, used extensively in this cuisine, is boned pork ham, smoked and aged by artisans in the Venosta Valley. It looks like bacon and tastes like prosciutto, but has the added element of smoke. are a much-magnified version, and particularly delicious when they are made with speck. Speck, used extensively in this cuisine, is boned pork ham, smoked and aged by artisans in the Venosta Valley. It looks like bacon and tastes like prosciutto, but has the added element of smoke.

Heading south from Merano, bypa.s.sing Bolzano, we ended in the Val di Non, the apple epicenter of Italy. Apples have been a major product here since the Middle Ages. An 1856 nursery list, compiled by the guild of Bolzano farmers, listed 193 apple varieties that could be successfully grown here. Today there are more than eight thousand apple farmers in the region, and apple growing is one of the princ.i.p.al industries. Val di Non apples owe their superior qualities to the rich soil, to the magnesium-rich dolomite rock formations that are characteristic of the territory, as well as to the Val di Non's temperate continental-Alpine climate. So it is natural that apples play an important part in the culinary tradition. From Celery Root and Apple Salad-Insalata di Mele to Spaghetti in Tomato-Apple Sauce- to Spaghetti in Tomato-Apple Sauce-Spaghetti alle Mele to Horseradish and Apple Salsa- to Horseradish and Apple Salsa-Salsa di Cren e Mele and Chunky Apple-Apricot Bread Pudding- and Chunky Apple-Apricot Bread Pudding-Sformato di Mele, it is not unusual to find apples in every course, as you will see in the recipes that follow.

As we headed up the Val di Non valley, we encountered this husband and wife resting during a pa.s.seggiata in July 2007.

The southwest part of TrentinoAlto Adige borders on Lake Garda. I particularly like the olive oil from this area. It is said that olives have been cultivated in the Garda since prehistoric times. The varietals planted today are Casaliva, Frantoio, Leccino, and Pendolino, which yield fruity and mellow b.u.t.tery oils with scents of almonds. They are light green in color, with low acidity levels-sometimes half of other extra-virgin olive oils. It is the microclimate created by the lake and Alps behind that allows olives to grow at such high lat.i.tude. Although the traditional cuisine of TrentinoAlto Adige is based on animal fat, ever more olive oil is being used in cooking today.

Because of the region's hilly topography only 15 percent of its land is cultivable, and the difficulty of growing vines on steep terraced hillsides compels growers to emphasize quality. One would think that at such high alt.i.tude white would be the wine of choice, but over the years the emphasis has been on reds, such as Lagrein and Teroldego. Nevertheless, I particularly love the large perfumed and crisp whites of this terrain-Sylvaner, Veltliner, Gewuztraminer, and Muller Thurgau.

APPLE & B & BEAN S SOUP.

Zuppa di Mele e f.a.gioli Serves 6 Serves 6 Every region of Italy has a f.a.gioli f.a.gioli (bean) soup, often quite filling, with potatoes and pork and either pasta or rice. Interestingly, it was in TrentinoAlto Adige, renowned for the heartiness of its soups, that I had this unexpectedly light bean soup, cooked with fresh apples and delicately spiced. It is vegetarian (also unusual), nourishing, and quite scrumptious. The combination of apples and beans is marvelous, and one of the pleasing features of this recipe is that simply by using less water you can make a great bean-and-apple side dish, a perfect accompaniment to roast pork, duck, or ham. (bean) soup, often quite filling, with potatoes and pork and either pasta or rice. Interestingly, it was in TrentinoAlto Adige, renowned for the heartiness of its soups, that I had this unexpectedly light bean soup, cooked with fresh apples and delicately spiced. It is vegetarian (also unusual), nourishing, and quite scrumptious. The combination of apples and beans is marvelous, and one of the pleasing features of this recipe is that simply by using less water you can make a great bean-and-apple side dish, a perfect accompaniment to roast pork, duck, or ham.

- pound dried cannellini beans dried cannellini beans, rinsed and soaked overnight - 1 bay leaf bay leaf, preferably fresh - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 pounds firm cooking apples apples, such as Golden Delicious - 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 4 whole cloves cloves - 8 cups hot water water (or 6 cups for a thicker side dish) (or 6 cups for a thicker side dish) - Finely grated zest of 1 lemon lemon (about 2 teaspoons) (about 2 teaspoons) - teaspoon ground cinnamon cinnamon RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 3-quart pot for cooking the beans; a heavy-bottomed saucepan, 4 quarts or larger, 10 inches wide, with a cover Drain the soaked beans, and put them in the pot with the bay leaf and fresh cold water to cover by an inch or so. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to keep the liquid simmering steadily, and cook, partially covered, about 40 minutes, or until the beans are cooked through but not mushy. Turn off the heat, stir in teaspoon salt, and let the beans cool for a while in the pot, absorbing some of the cooking liquid.

To make the soup: Peel and core the apples, and cut them in -inch-thick slices. Put 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in the heavy saucepan, and set it over medium heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter melts, scatter the apple slices in the bottom and drop in the cloves.

Cook the apples for 3 minutes, or until they begin to soften, turning and stirring them gently. Drain the cooked beans, and add them to the pan, then pour in the hot water-all 8 cups if you're making soup; 6 cups to make a side dish with thicker consistency. Turn up the heat, and stir in the lemon zest, cinnamon, and remaining 1 teaspoons salt.

Cover the pan, bring the liquid to a boil, then set the cover ajar and lower the heat to keep the soup bubbling gently. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the apples are completely soft and the liquid has the consistency you like for soup (or cook longer for a side dish). Turn off the heat, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, and serve.

CANEDERLIYou might be lost in the mountainous northern regions of Italy, but there would be one sure sign of your whereabouts: if you are served canederli canederli, you are in TrentinoAlto Adige. Th ese traditional bread dumplings appear somewhere in almost every lunch or supper: they might be floating in a bowl of broth, or dressed like pasta and served as a first course, or as a starch alongside a braise or stew, or even as a dessert.

Like many of the most enduring dishes in Italian cooking, canederli canederli were born out of frugality, when the poor but clever women of generations past fashioned a tasty new dish from the chunks of old bread that they always saved. In TrentinoAlto Adige, the bread was soaked until soft, bound with flour, formed into b.a.l.l.s, and cooked-but of course they would give it great flavor by adding something from the pantry: herbs or spices, cheese, or cured meat. And here were born out of frugality, when the poor but clever women of generations past fashioned a tasty new dish from the chunks of old bread that they always saved. In TrentinoAlto Adige, the bread was soaked until soft, bound with flour, formed into b.a.l.l.s, and cooked-but of course they would give it great flavor by adding something from the pantry: herbs or spices, cheese, or cured meat. And here canederli canederli have become the essential starch dish used to mop up sauces, as pasta, polenta, and rice are in other locales. have become the essential starch dish used to mop up sauces, as pasta, polenta, and rice are in other locales.

These two savory versions of canederli canederli-and the sweet Canederli di Ricotta Canederli di Ricotta show the variety of ways they are prepared and enjoyed. Th e show the variety of ways they are prepared and enjoyed. Th e canederli di speck canederli di speck are most typical, made from a dough of reconst.i.tuted country bread, loaded with tidbits of speck, the lightly smoked ham so prized in TrentinoAlto Adige. The are most typical, made from a dough of reconst.i.tuted country bread, loaded with tidbits of speck, the lightly smoked ham so prized in TrentinoAlto Adige. The canederli al c.u.mino canederli al c.u.mino are quite diff erent, made from a base of cooked potatoes and celery root, flavored with herbs and ground c.u.min, then fried to develop a crusty exterior, and finally baked. I know you will love both types of are quite diff erent, made from a base of cooked potatoes and celery root, flavored with herbs and ground c.u.min, then fried to develop a crusty exterior, and finally baked. I know you will love both types of canederli canederli, as I do.

DUMPLINGS WITH S SPECK.

Canederli di Speck Makes about 14 Makes about 14 canederli canederli, serving 6 to 8 Genuine imported speck is the meat of choice for these canederli canederli, but you can subst.i.tute either thick-cut bacon or prosciutto-in particular, the fatty prosciutto from the end of the leg-and get excellent results. Or you may omit the meat entirely and still have quite satisfying canederli. canederli. Poached Poached canederli canederli are best served as soon as they are cooked, but you can cook them in advance, and reheat them in hot stock. are best served as soon as they are cooked, but you can cook them in advance, and reheat them in hot stock.

- 2 ounces thick-sliced speck speck (or bacon or prosciutto) (or bacon or prosciutto) - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 medium onion onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup) - 3 cups 1-inch cubes of hearty white bread white bread, day-old but not stale, crusts removed - 2 cups milk milk - 1 cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for topping - cup chopped fresh chives fresh chives - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 eggs eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt - 1 cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more as needed - 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 9- or 10-inch skillet; a wide pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the canederli; canederli; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a rimmed tray or baking sheet a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a rimmed tray or baking sheet Cut the sliced speck (or bacon or prosciutto) into strips about inch wide; chop the strips crosswise to form little square bits of meat.

Pour the olive oil into the smaller skillet, and set it over medium heat. Stir in the onion, and cook until it starts sizzling. Spoon a tablespoon or two of water into the pan (so the onions soften without coloring), and cook for 3 or 4 minutes more. Scatter in the chopped speck and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, until it has rendered its fat. Sc.r.a.pe the onion and speck into a large bowl and let cool.

Put the bread cubes in another bowl, and pour in the milk. Toss the cubes so they're all drenched, then let them soak up the milk for about 10 minutes, until completely saturated. By handfuls, squeeze the bread, discarding the excess milk (or saving it for your cat!).

Loosen the compressed bread, tearing it into shreds, and toss them into the bowl with the speck. Add the grated cheese, chives, parsley, and teaspoon salt, and toss everything together. Pour the beaten eggs over the bread mixture, and stir to blend. Finally, sprinkle on cup flour and stir it in to form a moist, sticky dough. Pick up a bit and form it into a ball: if it is too soft to keep a shape, stir in more flour, a tablespoon at a time.

Fill the wide pot with about 6 quarts water, and add 1 tablespoon salt; heat it to a boil. Melt the b.u.t.ter in the big skillet over very low heat; turn off the flame, but leave the skillet on the burner.

Spread cup flour on the tray or baking sheet. With floured hands, scoop up a small portion of dough (a scant cup or so). Shape the dough into a 2-inch ball, tossing it from hand to hand and patting it lightly into a round-don't press or squeeze it too much. Lay it in the flour, and roll the ball to coat it all over. Set it on one side of the tray, and form round dumplings from the rest of the dough the same way.

With the poaching water at a steady boil, drop in the dumplings, one at a time but quickly. Handle them gently and don't stir them. Bring the water back to a boil, then adjust it so it simmers steadily. Don't let it boil vigorously, which can break apart the canederli. canederli.

Let the dumplings cook, without stirring, until all have risen to the surface of the water. Simmer them for a couple of minutes, then scoop one out and cut into it to check that the center is not wet and the dough looks uniformly cooked through.

Meanwhile, have the big skillet with melted b.u.t.ter warming over very low heat. Lift the cooked dumplings with a spider, let drain over the pot for a few seconds, then gently drop them in the b.u.t.ter. Spoon b.u.t.ter over the canederli canederli and serve them right away-on individual plates or a platter, family-style-topped with grated cheese. and serve them right away-on individual plates or a platter, family-style-topped with grated cheese.

If you are serving them as an accompaniment to braised or roasted meat, drizzle the pan juices over the canederli. canederli. You can also arrange the b.u.t.tered You can also arrange the b.u.t.tered canederli canederli around the meat on a platter, letting them slowly absorb the juices or sauce. around the meat on a platter, letting them slowly absorb the juices or sauce.

POTATOCELERY R ROOT D DUMPLINGS Canederli al c.u.mino Makes about 12 Makes about 12 canederli canederli, serving 6 These tasty canederli canederli are fried and baked rather than poached, with a potato-cake crustiness that is delicious any time of day. Serve them with eggs for a special breakfast or brunch, with a salad for lunch, or with juicy meats, like the Roasted Chicken with Beer, or Beef Braised in Beer. And they are also good (though not crusty) if you poach them-follow the procedures for the preceding are fried and baked rather than poached, with a potato-cake crustiness that is delicious any time of day. Serve them with eggs for a special breakfast or brunch, with a salad for lunch, or with juicy meats, like the Roasted Chicken with Beer, or Beef Braised in Beer. And they are also good (though not crusty) if you poach them-follow the procedures for the preceding canederli di speck. canederli di speck.

- A 1-pound whole celery root celery root, rinsed well but not peeled - 1 pound russet potatoes russet potatoes - 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - cup very finely chopped onion onion - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives fresh chives - 1 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram fresh marjoram - 1 teaspoon c.u.min seeds c.u.min seeds, toasted and ground - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - 5 large egg yolks egg yolks, lightly beaten - 1 cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: Potato ricer or food mill; a small skillet; a large rimmed baking sheet, or 2 sheets; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Put the celery root in a large saucepan with cold water to cover, and heat to a boil. Lower the heat a bit, and simmer the celery root for about 20 minutes; then drop in the potatoes (and raise the heat to bring the water back to the simmer). Cook the vegetables together just until they are cooked through and can be pierced easily with a skewer or sharp knife. Depending on size, the celery root needs 40 minutes to an hour, and the potatoes will take 20 to 30 minutes.

When done, remove the vegetables to a colander to drain and cool until you can handle and peel them. To peel celery root, sc.r.a.pe the skin off with the dull side of a paring knife, then cut out any bits of skin in the folds or any tough, k.n.o.bby parts. Press the cooked, peeled vegetables through a ricer or food mill into a large mixing bowl, and blend them together.

If the celery root is too fibrous to pa.s.s through a food ricer, cut it into chunks and drop them into a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until smooth, then blend with the potatoes. Don't Don't put the potatoes into the food processor, because it will make them gummy. put the potatoes into the food processor, because it will make them gummy.

While the root vegetables are simmering, melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small skillet over medium heat, stir in the onion, and cook until slightly softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Turn off the heat and let cool.

Before mixing the dough, arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 400.

When the celery root and potatoes are mashed and mixed, stir in the onion, chives, marjoram, c.u.min, salt, and pepper. Pour in the egg yolks, and blend in well. Sprinkle cup of flour on top, and work it in, forming a stiff, sticky dough.

Spread the remaining cup flour on the baking sheet. With floured hands, form the dough into twelve patties, about 1 inches wide and inch thick. Dredge them in the flour, coating both sides, and set them on one side of the tray.

To fry the canederli: canederli: Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter starts to bubble, shake excess flour off the patties of dough and lay them in the pan. Fry until golden brown on both sides, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove them to paper towels to drain. Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter starts to bubble, shake excess flour off the patties of dough and lay them in the pan. Fry until golden brown on both sides, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove them to paper towels to drain.

Clean the dredging flour from the baking sheet, arrange the fried canederli canederli on it, and set in the oven. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the on it, and set in the oven. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the canederli canederli are crisp and cooked through. Serve hot. are crisp and cooked through. Serve hot.

CABBAGE S SALAD WITH S SPECK.

Insalata di Speck Serves 6 Serves 6 Savoy cabbage is typically served as a cooked vegetable, but here the raw cabbage, shaved into thin shreds, makes a wonderful salad with great, resilient texture. Crisp rendered strips of speck (or bacon or prosciutto as alternatives) are a great complement, and the hot vinegar dressing is delicious.

For shredding the cabbage, I like to use a mandoline slicer. These versatile cutting implements were once quite costly and usually found only in professional kitchens. Today, though, you can buy a decent simple mandoline for under $20, and I recommend that every home cook have one.

- A small head Savoy cabbage Savoy cabbage, 1 pound or slightly larger - pound thinly sliced speck speck (or bacon or prosciutto), cut into -inch strips (or bacon or prosciutto), cut into -inch strips - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - cup red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A mandoline slicer or sharp chef's knife; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 10-inch diameter Core the cabbage, and cut it into two or three wedges. With the mandoline or knife, slice the wedges into fine shreds, and heap them in a large bowl.

Cut the speck (or bacon or prosciutto) into -inch strips or ribbons. Set the skillet over medium heat, pour in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and scatter the strips in the pan. Cook the speck, stirring and spreading the ribbons, until they've rendered their fat and are crisp on the edges, about 5 minutes. Blot them on paper towels, then toss in with the cabbage. Drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over the cabbage, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, and toss again.

Set the empty skillet over high heat, pour in the red-wine vinegar, swirling the pan to deglaze it, and bring the vinegar to a boil. Cook rapidly to reduce the vinegar by half. Immediately pour it over the salad and toss well. Serve warm or at room temperature.

CAULIFLOWER & P & POTATO S SALAD.

Insalata di Cavolfiori e Patate Serves 6 Serves 6 This is a terrific salad for your repertoire, especially in winter, when vegetable choices are limited (though I like it any time of year). It is tasty and versatile, good as a side dish for grilled chicken, lamb chops, or pork chops, and substantial enough to be a meal in itself. It doesn't wilt and is excellent for a buffet table or picnic. Best of all, you can make and dress it ahead of time-in fact, it gets better if you do.

- 1 pound cauliflower cauliflower - 1 pound small russet potatoes russet potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled - 1 bunches scallions scallions, white and some of the green parts, chopped in -inch pieces (about 1 cups) - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - cup cider vinegar cider vinegar - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 3 hard-cooked large eggs eggs, peeled, sliced in thin wedges RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large bowl for dressing, tossing, and serving Fill a pot or saucepan with 3 quarts of water, and heat it to a boil.

Tear off any tough leaves at the base of the cauliflower (reserve any small, tender leaves) and cut out the core. Break or cut the large branches into 1-inch florets, drop them (and any tender leaves) into the boiling water, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Lift from the water, and drain well in a colander. When cool, put the florets in the large bowl.

As soon as the cauliflower is out of the pot, return the water to a boil and drop in the potatoes. Cook them at a gentle boil just until a knife blade pierces the center easily-don't let them get mushy. Drain and briefly cool the potatoes; peel them while still warm, and cut into 1-inch cubes.

Put the potato cubes and cut scallions in the bowl with the cauliflower, season with 1 teaspoon salt and freshly ground black pepper, and toss the vegetables together.

For the dressing: whisk the vinegar with the remaining teaspoon salt in a small bowl, then whisk in the olive oil gradually, until smooth and emulsified. Pour the dressing over the salad; toss and tumble to coat all the pieces. Scatter the wedges of cooked egg over the top, and gently fold in with the vegetables.

Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for 2 or 3 days.

COUNTRY S SALAD.

Insalata Paesana Serves 6 Serves 6 Crunchy, flavorful, refreshing, nourishing, and colorful, this salad makes a fine meal by itself. Its a.s.sortment of vegetables, apples, nuts, and cheese should be fresh and well prepared. It is especially important to use a top-quality table cheese, because it is a major contributor of taste and texture. In TrentinoAlto Adige, this salad would always have a fresh local cheese, most likely an Asiago pressato pressato, made with milk from farms in the province of Trento (and the neighboring Veneto region). Aged only 20 days, this young cheese has a sweetness and soft, chewy consistency that's perfect in salad.

If you can't find genuine Italian Asiago, don't buy the inferior cheeses called Asiago produced in other countries (including the United States). Choose instead Montasio-a favorite of mine from my home region, Friuli-similarly soft and sweet, though richer and more complex than Asiago. Cubes of fresh Grana Padano (which also is made in Trento) or even good American cheddar, younger and on the mild side, would be great here as well.

You can dress this salad in advance and set it out on a buffet. In that case, though, I suggest you add the walnuts just before serving, so they remain crunchy.

- 1 pound cauliflower cauliflower - pound small red potatoes red potatoes (3 or 4 potatoes) (3 or 4 potatoes) - 1 large or 2 smaller firm, crisp apples apples ( pound or so) ( pound or so) - 8 small radishes radishes (about 6 ounces) (about 6 ounces) - 1 cup -inch-diced red onion red onion - 8 ounces imported Italian Asiago Asiago, rind removed, cut in -inch cubes (see headnote for other good cheeses) - cup toasted coa.r.s.ely chopped walnuts walnuts - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 3 tablespoons cider vinegar cider vinegar - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large bowl for dressing, tossing, and serving Fill a pot or saucepan with 3 quarts water, and heat it to a boil.

Tear off any tough leaves at the base of the cauliflower (reserve any small, tender leaves) and cut out the core. Break or cut the large branches into small florets, drop them (and any tender leaves) into the boiling water, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Lift from the water, and drain well in a colander. When cool, put the florets in the large bowl.

As soon as the cauliflower is out of the pot, return the water to a boil and drop in the potatoes. Cook them at a gentle boil just until a knife blade pierces the center easily-don't let them get mushy. Drain and briefly cool the potatoes; peel them while still warm, cut into -inch dice, and put them in the serving bowl with the cauliflower.

Peel and core the apples, cut into -inch dice, and add to the salad bowl. Trim radishes, quarter them in wedges, and drop into the bowl along with the diced red onion, cubes of Asiago, and toasted walnuts.

Sprinkle the salt over the salad pieces and toss. Drizzle the olive oil and vinegar over the salad and toss; sprinkle on the parsley, toss once more, and serve.

CELERY R ROOT & A & APPLE S SALAD.

Insalata di Mele Serves 6 Serves 6 Here's another fine winter salad, pairing one of my favorite, underappreciated vegetables-celery root-with fresh apples. The mellow, tender cubes of cooked celery root and the crisp apple slices provide a delightful, unexpected combination of flavor and texture. To turn the salad into a light lunch, add a few slices of prosciutto and serve it with some crusty bread.

A firm, crisp apple is what you want for salad, and fortunately there are many varieties in the market that have that essential crunch, with flavors ranging from sweet to tangy to tart. I like to use a few different apples, rather than just one type, for greater complexity of flavor and vivid color in the salad. In addition to the reliably crisp Granny Smith apple, I look for some of the old-time firm and tart apples, such as Gravenstein, Jonathan, and Rome, and a few newer strains, like Cameo, Gala, and Fuji.

- A 2-pound whole celery root celery root, rinsed well but not peeled - 1 pound firm, crisp apples apples (see above for varieties) (see above for varieties) - 3 tablespoons cider vinegar cider vinegar - 1 tablespoon German-style mustard German-style mustard - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives fresh chives RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large bowl for dressing, tossing, and serving Put the celery root in a large saucepan with cold water to cover, and heat to a boil. Lower the heat a bit, and simmer the celery root for about an hour or so, until cooked through and tender. As it cooks, keep the root submerged by weighting it with a plate or pot lid. When you can easily pierce the celery root with a skewer, drain it in a colander and cool.

To peel the celery root: sc.r.a.pe off the skin with the dull side of a paring knife, and cut out the bits of skin in the folds and any tough, k.n.o.bby parts. Cut the celery root in half, and slice each half into thin half-moons; put these in the large bowl. (If the celery root is a bit fibrous, cut the slices into thin matchsticks.) Rinse the apples well, but don't peel them. Slice them in half, through the stem and bottom ends, and cut out the seeds and cores. Slice the halves crosswise into half-moons, about inch thick, add to the bowl, and gently toss the celery root and apple slices together.

For the dressing: whisk together the vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl, then whisk in the olive oil gradually, until smooth and emulsified. Pour the dressing over the celery root and apple, sprinkle the chives on top, and tumble to coat all the slices with dressing.

Serve at room temperature.

SPAGHETTI IN T TOMATO-APPLE S SAUCE.

Spaghetti con Salsa di Pomodori e Mele Serves 6 Serves 6 I know you might do a double take at the name of this recipe. But I a.s.sure you it is a simple, delightful rendition of spaghetti in quickly cooked tomato sauce. The unique touch comes from shreds of fresh apple, which lend the sauce a lovely aroma and flavor and feel good in the mouth. When I tasted this for the first time in the Val di Non of Trentino, I wondered, Why didn't I think of this long ago?

Spaghetti is my choice of pasta here, but linguine, ziti, or rigatoni would be just as good.

- 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 large stalks celery celery, cut in -inch dice (about 1 cup) - 1 medium onion onion, chopped (about 1 cup) - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 pound tart, firm apples apples, such as Granny Smith - 1 pound spaghetti spaghetti - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor or blender; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta Pour the canned tomatoes into the food processor or blender, and puree until smooth.

Pour 4 tablespoons of the olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium heat, and strew the chopped celery and onion in the pan. Cook and stir the vegetables for about 5 minutes, until they wilt and start to caramelize.

Stir in the pureed tomatoes, season with the salt, and heat to a bubbling simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or so. As the tomatoes perk, peel and core the apples, and remove the seeds. Shred them, using the coa.r.s.e holes of a shredder or grater.

When the tomatoes have cooked about 5 minutes, stir the apples into the sauce. Heat again to a simmer, and cook the sauce, uncovered, for about 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until it has reduced and thickened and the apple shreds are cooked and tender.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil, drop in the spaghetti, and cook it until barely al dente. al dente. Lift the spaghetti from the water, let drain for a moment, and drop it into the warm sauce. (Reheat, if necessary.) Lift the spaghetti from the water, let drain for a moment, and drop it into the warm sauce. (Reheat, if necessary.) Toss pasta with sauce for a minute or two, until all the strands are coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese over the pasta, and toss well. Drizzle over it the remaining olive oil, toss once again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese over the pasta, and toss well. Drizzle over it the remaining olive oil, toss once again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

WHOLE-GRAIN S SPAETZLE.

Spatzle di Farina Integrale Serves 6 Serves 6 Spaetzle are little noodles or dumplings made by pressing a sticky dough through a perforated tool right into boiling water-one of the simplest of all the techniques by which pasta is made. These whole-wheat spaetzle are especially delicious, dressed simply with b.u.t.ter and grated cheese, and make a good alternative to potatoes as a contorno contorno accompanying roasts or braised meats. accompanying roasts or braised meats.

The key to making spaetzle is having the right tool or utensil, with holes large enough to let the sticky dough pa.s.s through easily and quickly. You might have a colander that works, but I recommend that you buy a spaetzle-maker designed for the job. There are different kinds-some slide like a mandoline; others extrude the dough, like potato ricers-and both types are inexpensive and easy to use. And you'll use your spaetzle-maker often, I am sure, after you make and taste a batch of spatzle di farina integrale. spatzle di farina integrale.

- 2 large eggs eggs - cup milk milk, plus more as needed - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cups whole-wheat flour whole-wheat flour - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A ricer-style or sliding spaetzle-maker, or a colander with large holes ( inch or larger); a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Whisk the eggs, milk, and salt together in a large bowl until thoroughly blended. With a wooden spoon, stir in the flour, parsley, and nutmeg, forming a thick, sticky, batterlike dough. If the dough is stiff, and doesn't drip like a batter, work in more milk. Let the dough-batter rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt). Fill the hopper of the spaetzle-maker with the batter, hold it over the pot, and press or slide it (depending on the type of tool), forcing the dough through the holes so it drops into the water in small blobs. If you don't have a spaetzle-maker, scoop or pour the batter into the colander or perforated utensil and press it through the holes with a spatula.