Cut the celery into fine slices. Flavour half the mayonnaise with mustard to taste, starting with a teaspoonful. Mix in the celery. Mix the remaining mayonnaise with the cold mussels, drained potatoes and the shallot or onion. Sh.e.l.l and quarter the eggs.

Put the mussel salad in the centre of a large plate. Surrounded it with celery salad and arrange the eggs in a circle between the two. Scatter with parsley. Serve well chilled.

MOUCLADE AU FENOUIL.

Serves 63 kg (6 lb) mussels, scrubbed and sc.r.a.ped clean250 ml (8 fl oz) dry white wine250 g (8 oz) onion, chopped4 heads fennel, sliced, green leaves reserved2 cloves garlic, skinned, sliced150 g (5 oz) b.u.t.tersalt, pepper, cayenne125 ml (4 fl oz) single cream (optional)small triangles of bread, fried in b.u.t.ter Open the mussels as described in method 2, using the white wine. Take 12 of the mussels and break off half of their sh.e.l.ls. Sh.e.l.l the remainder and keep them warm. Strain the liquor.

Meanwhile, soften the onion, fennel and garlic in two-thirds of the b.u.t.ter in a shallow pan. Cover it at first, then half-cover so that you end up with a juicy rather than liquid result. Chop the fennel leaves and set aside.

When the fennel is tender, tip the panful into a blender or processor and puree to a smooth sauce, adding the mussel liquor to taste. Check the seasoning. Add some of the chopped fennel leaves and reheat gently, without boiling. Beat in the remaining b.u.t.ter and, if you like, some cream.

Distribute the sh.e.l.led mussels between six warm individual pots. Pour on the hot sauce, then add the mussels in the half sh.e.l.ls. Dip one corner of each triangle of bread in the sauce, then in chopped fennel leaves, and serve with the stew.

MOUCLADE CHARENTAISE.

If ever you are in the west of France, I can recommend a visit to Esnandes, a village to the north of La Roch.e.l.le. Go there in the morning to visit the extraordinary fortified church, where you can walk on the battlements, and look out towards the marshy coast and shallow bay where mile after mile of posts or bouchets bouchets diminish towards the horizon. Lunch should be taken in the Hotel du Port the flavouring there is curry powder instead of saffron, but it works well, being used with a light hand. A Mouclade is the Atlantic coast version of Moules mariniere, the sauce being richer and thicker. diminish towards the horizon. Lunch should be taken in the Hotel du Port the flavouring there is curry powder instead of saffron, but it works well, being used with a light hand. A Mouclade is the Atlantic coast version of Moules mariniere, the sauce being richer and thicker.

Serves 63 kg (6 lb) well-scrubbed mussels, small ones if possiblebouquet garni2 medium onions, chopped200 ml (7 fl oz) dry white winelarge pinch of saffron150 g (5 oz) b.u.t.ter, diced6 shallots, chopped1 tablespoon plain flour2 large egg yolksjuice of 1 lemon100 ml (3 fl oz) creme fraiche or or half soured, half double cream half soured, half double creamsalt, pepper1 small bunch of parsley, chopped2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped Open the mussels by method 2, using the bouquet garni, onions and wine. Strain off the liquor into a jug and add the saffron. Remove half sh.e.l.ls from the mussels and keep them warm in a bowl.

Meanwhile, melt one-third of the b.u.t.ter and cook the shallots until soft, without colouring. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute or so to make a roux. Add the liquor and saffron and simmer for 10 minutes. Beat the yolks with half the lemon juice and the cream(s). Stir in a little of the sauce, then stir the mixture into the rest of the sauce. Season. Remove from the heat. Beat the rest of the b.u.t.ter into the sauce with some of the parsley and the garlic. Pour over the mussels, sprinkle with the last of the parsley and serve with bread and a good white wine.

MOULES a LA POULETTE.

This is a favourite French dish. The yellowish-white sauce looks most appetizing with the navy blue sh.e.l.ls and orange flesh of the mussels: the flavour is wonderful, even better than the appearance of the dish.

Serves 63 kg (6 lb) musselsingredients for sauce poulette* using only 125 g (4 oz) sliced mushrooms Scrub and sc.r.a.pe mussels, and open them by method i. Remove them with tongs to a strainer set over a bowl. Throw away the half-sh.e.l.ls, place the mussels in a large bowl, and keep them warm. Strain the mussel liquor carefully and use in making the sauce.

Pour the heated sauce over the bowl of mussels and serve immediately with plenty of good bread to mop up the plates.

MOULES BORDELAISE.

Serves 6 as a first course6 dozen medium to large mussels, opened by method 1100 g (3 oz) fresh white breadcrumbs, not too fine4 tablespoons clarified b.u.t.ter*4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley4 large plump cloves garlic, finely choppedextra b.u.t.ter (optional) Discard all the mussel sh.e.l.ls and keep the mussels in a covered dish. This can be done in advance.

Just before the meal, fry the breadcrumbs to a light golden brown colour in the clarified b.u.t.ter. Mix the parsley and garlic, and add to the crumbs. Give them a few seconds more for the garlic to soften slightly, but do not overcook, or the parsley will lose its fresh green colour and the crumbs will turn soggy.

Meanwhile, heat the mussels through gently in another pan with a little b.u.t.ter, if you prepared them in advance. If they have just been opened, this is unnecessary. Scoop the mussels into the pan of crumbs, leaving any liquor behind, and stir them briefly so that everything is well mixed. Divide them between six small warm pots, serve with slices of French bread and a dry white wine.

MOULES FARCIES.

I do not apologize for repeating what is after all the best of all mussel dishes. If you have not tried mussels before, start with this recipe. Needless to say it can be adapted to oysters and large clams. Indeed the recipe originated with clams.

Serves 864 large mussels, sc.r.a.ped, opened by method 12 large cloves garlic, halved1 shallot, quarteredleaves of 1 bunch of parsleythinly cut zest of lemon250 g (8 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cubedsalt, pepperfresh breadcrumbs Discard half the mussel sh.e.l.ls, leaving the mussels on the half-sh.e.l.l. Make sure they are cut free.

In the processor, or by chopping, reduce garlic, shallot, parsley and lemon zest to a crumble and mix with the b.u.t.ter. Season. Put a dab of this mixture on top of each mussel.

Arrange the mussels on dimpled sh.e.l.lfish plates if you have them, or cut eight trenches of bread and make eight holes in each with an apple corer so that the mussels can rest steady, without wobbling. Put under a hot grill. As the b.u.t.ter melts, pull out the grill pan and scatter lightly with breadcrumbs. Put back to brown lightly and bubble. Serve immediately. (If your grill is small, arrange the mussels on two baking sheets and put them in a hot oven to melt the b.u.t.ter. Then finish them off under the grill, one at a time.) MOULES MARINIeRE.

This is the simplest and most famous of the mussel stews, the basis from which many variations have been built up.

Serves 42 kg (4 lb) mussels, scrubbed and sc.r.a.pedbouquet garni4 tablespoons finely chopped shallot or or onion onion30 g (1 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter250 ml (8 fl oz) dry white wine1 teaspoon lightly crushed peppercorns34 tablespoons chopped parsley Open the mussels as described in method 2 with the bouquet garni, shallot, b.u.t.ter, wine and peppercorns. Keep the opened mussels warm in a hot, covered soup tureen and, when all are done, strain the cooking liquor over them. Scatter with parsley and serve at once.

VARIATION A richer version may be made by stirring a few spoonfuls of hollandaise* into the strained mussel liquor, instead of using b.u.t.ter during the cooking. A richer version may be made by stirring a few spoonfuls of hollandaise* into the strained mussel liquor, instead of using b.u.t.ter during the cooking.

MUSSEL OR OYSTER PUDDING.

I suspect that one of the reasons we British think so badly of our cooking is that suet puddings, for weight reasons, are out, and suet puddings are were? one of the glories of our table. In fact, a good suet crust is light and pleasant to eat, crisp on the outside, a wonderful absorber of flavour. If you follow up a pudding like this one with fruit, you have an admirable lunch for a cold day that will not lie on your stomach to reproach you later on.

The secret of good suet puddings, whether savoury or sweet, is piquancy, here mussels or oysters. I daresay scallops, prawns, clams and c.o.c.kles would do quite as well, but I have not tried them. Do not be tempted to use sh.e.l.lfish raw, as they will exude too much liquid and make the pastry doughy; cook them very lightly.

Serves 46CRUST300 g (10 oz) self-raising flour level teaspoon salt150 g (5 oz) fresh suet, choppedFILLING60 mussels opened by method 1 or or 24 large or 36 medium oysters 24 large or 36 medium oysters100 g (3 oz) onion, finely chopped46 rashers streaky bacon (smoked or green), cut in strips, minus rind3 tablespoons chopped parsleySAUCE175 g (6 oz) b.u.t.terblack pepperchopped parsley and chives Mix the crust ingredients well together with your hands. Bind to a soft but coherent dough with cold water. Chill while you prepare the mussels or oysters.

Scrub and sc.r.a.pe the mussels free of barnacles, and open as directed. When open, place in a colander, then using a spoon or a loose sh.e.l.l half, scoop the edible part into a basin and discard the sh.e.l.ls. Strain the liquor into a pan for later reheating.

Open the oysters with a knife as in method 3, allowing juice to fall into a small pan. Add the oysters. Set over a moderate heat and give them just long enough to firm up: remove them with a perforated spoon, leaving the liquor behind for later reheating.

All this can be done in advance. You can open the mussels with white wine rather than water, and add white wine to the oysters, but I do not think you gain anything by it. The charm of the dish is its simple contrasts.

To make up the pudding, roll out the dough into a large square or rectangle under 1 cm ( inch) thick. Scatter it with onion, bacon, parsley and the sh.e.l.lfish you can cut the oysters in two to get a better distribution of flavour. Roll up, dampen the ends and press the ends together. Put on to a generously-b.u.t.tered piece of foil, large enough to enclose the roll in a baggy parcel (the crust needs room to rise and swell). Seal it well. Enclose in a cloth if you like, for easy handling.

Bring an oblong or oval pan I use a self-basting roaster one-third full of water to the boil. Put a trivet in the pan, or a long shallow dish upside-down and lay the parcel on top. Cover and steam for 2 hours. Check from time to time and, if necessary, restore the original water-level with more boiling water.

Remove the pudding and take away the cloth, if used. Unwrap the foil carefully, saving any juices, and turn the pudding on to a hot serving dish. If convenient, put into a moderately hot oven to crisp the surface slightly. Melt the b.u.t.ter for the sauce, add plenty of pepper and heat it through, skimming off the white crust. Then add the herbs. Add any juices in the cooking foil to the sh.e.l.lfish juices and heat them through as well. Taste, and reduce if they seem watery. Serve b.u.t.ter and juices in two separate jugs. Slice the pudding and eat it on its own, although you could follow it with a salad.

MUSSEL AND SPINACH GRATIN.

This is a delectable and unusual recipe from Evan Jones's World of Cheese World of Cheese. Many cheese cookery books are disappointing, but not this one perhaps because it makes clear the special delight and relationship between vegetables and cheese, cheese of different and specified kinds. For this dish you may not be able to get Italian fontina, the creamy cheese from Piedmont. It will not be quite the same with Gruyere or Emmental, but they are the nearest thing to it on general sale.

Serves 63 kg (67 lb) mussels1 kg (3 lb) fresh spinach or or 1 kg (2 lb) pack frozen spinach 1 kg (2 lb) pack frozen spinach2 tablespoons chopped shallot or or spring onion spring onion125 ml (4 fl oz) dry white wine3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons plain flour125 ml (4 fl oz) whipping or or double cream double creamgenerous pinch of saffronsalt, pepper125150 g (45 oz) grated fontina cheese Wash and sc.r.a.pe the mussels, discarding any that are broken, or that remain open when tapped sharply. Wash and cut the spinach into shreds with scissors, or divide the frozen block, slightly thawed, into smaller pieces. Put the shallot or onion into a large pan with the wine. Place the spinach on top, then the mussels. Cover tightly, set over a very high heat, and boil for 5 minutes. Remove the cooked mussels and discard the sh.e.l.ls. Take the pan off the stove if the spinach is also cooked. Drain the spinach, keeping the liquor carefully.

Make a sauce with the b.u.t.ter, flour, liquor from the spinach and mussels, and cream. Stir in saffron and seasoning to taste. Boil for a few minutes to release the saffron yellow.

Spread out the spinach in a b.u.t.tered ca.s.serole, put the mussels on top and then the sauce. Finish with grated cheese. Bake in the oven at gas 6, 200C (400F) for 10 minutes, then complete the browning under the grill. The dish should be heated through properly, without the mussels being overcooked to rubber.

MUSSELS WITH WALNUT AND TAHINA SAUCE.

Serves 82 kg (4 lb) mussels, opened by method 14 tablespoons chopped parsley4 tomatoes, skinned, seededsalt, pepper6 pitta bread, warmed throughSAUCE2 slices of white bread, crusts removed3 cloves garlic, halved3 tablespoons tahina paste125 g (4 oz) sh.e.l.led walnuts3 tablespoons white wine vinegar150 ml (5 fl oz) sunflower oilsalt, freshly ground black pepper, cayenne The sauce can be made in advance, using a blender. A processor can also be used, but you will get a finer, more coherent result in the blender. You can also pound the whole thing by hand.

Pour a little water over the bread, squeezing it with your fingers and adding more water to make a soft paste. Put the garlic and tahina into the blender and whizz at top speed. Gradually add the walnuts and the bread paste in alternate spoonfuls. The mixture will need lubricating from time to time, so add a tablespoon of the vinegar and splashes of oil occasionally you may not need all the oil. Finally, season with the rest of the vinegar, salt, black pepper and cayenne.

Sh.e.l.l the mussels and toss about half of them with the parsley. Cut the tomatoes into strips, or dice them and season with salt and pepper. Cut the pitta in half across and then down, then slit the sides so that you have eight triangles from each one.

To a.s.semble the dish, which should be served at room temperature, put a pool of sauce on to each of eight plates. Arrange the mussels overlapping the sauce slightly in a pile, plain and parsley mixed, add the tomato and two wedges of pitta serve the rest of the pitta in a basket.

PASTA WITH MUSSELS AND ORANGE.

Mussels with a cream sauce*, or a tomato sauce*, are often served with pasta. This is a lighter version that tastes as fresh as it looks. If you want a more dramatic dish and are in the habit of making your own pasta use squid ink to colour it black, otherwise you can use white or green fettucine or both together.

Serves 61 kg (3 lb) mussels, scrubbed and opened by method 12 orangesabout 700 g (1 lb) fresh pasta125 g (4 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons chopped parsleysalt, pepper Open the mussels as directed, discard the sh.e.l.ls and strain and reserve the liquor. Remove threads of orange peel with a zester or cut thin strips of zest and slice them into shreds. Squeeze one of the oranges.

Cook the pasta in salted water in the usual way. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a pan, add the orange juice, the zest and the mussel liquor. Simmer 23 minutes. Just before you drain the pasta, add the mussels to this sauce to heat them through briefly. Toss with the pasta, the parsley and plenty of pepper. Serve straightaway.

SALADE a LA BOULONNAISE.

Channel ports of the French coast are no more to travellers these days than a minor episode of impatience on long summer journeys. As one drives away thankfully, it is startling to think that our great-grandparents might have waited nine days in such places for a wind; up to six weeks, if they could afford it, for a calm. They might even have chosen to live there for business, for economy on small pensions and for escape. Some of them are buried under hideous tombstones in the cemetery on the steep Lille road out of Boulogne, which looks across the sea to England: 'beloved wife of...', 'leader of the Methodist community of this town'. If you then go, as we once did, from the cemetery to the garish duty-free booths near the Gare Maritime, it is hard to think that Boulogne has its virtues. There is the blue lung-raking air of course; but also the mild harengs saurs which are cured here, and simple fresh food a la Boulonnaise, with mussels.

The best of these Boulogne dishes, and to my mind one of the best of all salads, is this combination of sweet plump mussels and waxy potato, dressed with a fine olive oil vinaigrette and parsley.

Serves 61 kg (2 lb) waxy potatoes, preferably Desiree5 tablespoons white wine6 chopped shallots1 good sprig of thyme6 good sprigs of parsleyplenty of black pepper23 kg (56 lb) mussels, opened by method 2about 8 tablespoons well-seasoned vinaigretteextra chopped parsley for garnishing Wash then boil the potatoes in their skins. When cooked, peel and slice them. Meanwhile put wine, shallots, thyme, parsley, pepper and scrubbed mussels in a large pan, and open as directed. Discard the sh.e.l.ls, put the mussels in a dish to cool, and strain the cooking liquor over the potatoes. The potatoes are bound to cool down as you peel and slice them, so reboil the mussel liquor before pouring it over them.

Drain the potato slices when cold, mix them with the cold mussels, and pour on enough vinaigrette to moisten the salad. Arrange in a shallow dish, sprinkle chopped parsley on top, and serve well chilled. Put a covering of foil over the dish while it is in the refrigerator.

MUSSEL SALAD.

This is a plain salad of mussels with curly endive and peppers. Mussels go well with salads: their small piquant richness enhances both the crispness of some vegetables such as endive or celery or the softness of potato.

Serves 4 as a first course1 kg (12 lb) mussels, opened by method 2250 ml (8 fl oz) white wine1 handful of chopped parsley2 cloves garlic, gently bruisedfreshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar150 ml (5fl oz) olive oiljuice of lemon1 curly endive2 red and 2 yellow peppers, sliced4 fronds dill8 stalks salad burnet Place the mussels in a pan with the white wine, parsley, garlic and pepper. Cook over a fast heat as directed above until they open.

To make the dressing, strain the cooking liquor into a bowl, add the vinegar, olive oil and lemon juice, and mix well.

To serve, arrange the salad vegetables on a plate and add the cooked, warm mussels. Dress while still warm.

NEEDLENOSE see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... GARFISH GARFISH NORWAY LOBSTERS see see LOBSTERS LOBSTERS OCTOPUS see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... OCTOPUS OCTOPUS OPAH see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... OPAH OPAH ORMER see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... ABALONE ABALONE

OYSTERS.

Ostreidae spp. spp.

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The fashion today is to praise our traditional food and cookery, out of gastronomic patriotism, without much experience of its high spots. Asparagus does not, for instance, appear on every table two or three times a week in May or June as it does in Germany. Oysters are served even less, I would say, judging by our local fishmongers. A pity this, since once they were everyone's delight from the poorest to the Prince of Wales. Today, however, we only seem to eat oysters in restaurants foolish if you come to think of it, since their preparation is negligible and it would be far cheaper to eat them at home.

In the matter of oysters, there are two main choices. The ardent oyster-lover with a deep pocket goes for Ostrea edulis Ostrea edulis, native indigenous oysters which are round and flattish, their sh.e.l.ls ridged. In Britain, the ideal might be Royal Whitstables or Pyefleets from Colchester. In France, Belons or Armoricaines or gravettes d'Arcachon gravettes d'Arcachon. If you are new to oysters, go first for the very best. They are in season over the winter.

The second choice is the cheaper Portuguese or Pacific oyster Cra.s.sostrea angulata Cra.s.sostrea angulata or or C. gigas C. gigas. Both are longer than the rounded Ostrea edulis Ostrea edulis and much more frilled and beautiful in their form. They are the oysters you see everywhere in French markets throughout the year, the people's oysters and, although inferior to the fine-flavoured native, by careful cultivation some specimens reach almost as distinguished a glory. and much more frilled and beautiful in their form. They are the oysters you see everywhere in French markets throughout the year, the people's oysters and, although inferior to the fine-flavoured native, by careful cultivation some specimens reach almost as distinguished a glory.

Marennes and the Ile d'Oleron provide nearly two-thirds of France's oysters. There had always been native oysters in those parts, but in 1860 a ship with a cargo of oysters from Portugal had to take refuge in the Gironde from storms in the Bay of Biscay. As time went by and the storms continued, everyone became nervous of the state of the cargo. Eventually it was thrown overboard. The oysters were not in as parlous a state as had been feared. They looked around, liked their new situation, and settled down to make a new home. All went well for a century, but latterly disease weakened the Portuguese oysters, so the Pacific oyster has been introduced with great success. As its scientific name suggests, it is a giant oyster, if left to reach full maturity. In fact it is harvested young, at Portuguese oyster size.

In Britain, where the water is too cold for them to breed, Portuguese and Pacific are started off in laboratories and sold to growers as seed oysters. This means you can have the summer pleasure of grilling scrubbed oysters over charcoal, flat side up, so that they steam open by themselves.

Beyond the simple choice that I have described, there is, as you might expect, a world of knowledge and expertise, drama and emotion (as for instance when some disease, such as bonamia, takes out famous oyster beds). My own pa.s.sion for oysters began when my husband gave me a copy of The Oysters of Loqmariaquer The Oysters of Loqmariaquer by Eleanor Clark. She describes her own first acquaintance with oysters during a long stay in Brittany, and weaves in much oyster history and many anecdotes. She is poet enough to attempt a description of the oyster's special delight: 'Music or the colour of the sea are easier to describe than the taste of one of these Armoricaines, which has been lifted, turned, rebedded, taught to close its mouth while travelling, culled, sorted, kept a while in a rest home or "basin" between each change of domicile... It is briny first of all, and not in the sense of brine in a barrel, for the preservation of something; there is a shock of freshness to it... You are eating the sea, only the sensation of a gulp of sea water had been wafted out of it by some sorcery.' by Eleanor Clark. She describes her own first acquaintance with oysters during a long stay in Brittany, and weaves in much oyster history and many anecdotes. She is poet enough to attempt a description of the oyster's special delight: 'Music or the colour of the sea are easier to describe than the taste of one of these Armoricaines, which has been lifted, turned, rebedded, taught to close its mouth while travelling, culled, sorted, kept a while in a rest home or "basin" between each change of domicile... It is briny first of all, and not in the sense of brine in a barrel, for the preservation of something; there is a shock of freshness to it... You are eating the sea, only the sensation of a gulp of sea water had been wafted out of it by some sorcery.'

OYSTERS ON THE HALF-Sh.e.l.l.

The best way with fine oysters is to eat them raw. But first you have to open them (don't ask the fishmonger to do this for you, or the precious liquor will be lost on the way home). You may never break the records of a professional oyster opener one maitre ecailler maitre ecailler reckoned he had opened 200 dozen oysters a day for forty-three years but it is easy to acquire the skill necessary for the few dozen you are likely to buy. reckoned he had opened 200 dozen oysters a day for forty-three years but it is easy to acquire the skill necessary for the few dozen you are likely to buy.

The main thing is to wrap your left hand in a clean tea towel, before picking up the oyster so that it lies in the palm of your hand. The flat side should be on top. Slip a short, wide-bladed kitchen knife under the hinge and push it into the oyster. Press the middle fingers of your left hand on the sh.e.l.l, and with the right hand jerk the knife up slightly. The two sh.e.l.ls will soon be forced apart, and you can finish freeing the oyster from its base. At first this is a messy, sodden business, and I find it essential to revive myself with the first two oysters (in France our fishmonger always slips in three or four extra. which I regard as the cook's perquisite). Soon, though, you will complete the operation swiftly and neatly, and be able to lay the deeper sh.e.l.l on the dish with oyster and liquor complete.

To serve oysters the cla.s.sic way, put crushed ice on to the plates, and then if possible a layer of seaweed as it sets off the oysters so well. Arrange the oysters in a circle, pointed end inwards, and put half a lemon in the centre. About 15 minutes on ice is enough to chill the oyster without overdoing it.

All you need now is brown bread, or rye bread and b.u.t.ter, some lemon juice, cayenne pepper or wine vinegar with a little chopped shallot in it, and a bottle of dry white wine. 'Chablis was and remains the accepted wine to go with oysters,' said Edmund Penning-Rowsell in an article in Country Life Country Life, 'although to my mind these are too strong for the delicate, very dry wines of Chablis. Muscadet from near the mouth of the Loire is probably a better and less expensive choice, and if the seawater flavour gets into the wine, no great harm is done to that lesser, often rather acid, Breton favourite.' There are many people, and not just Irishmen, who say that Guinness is even better with oysters.

If a dozen oysters for each person is out of the question, you can serve eight or even six. But when you are down to this kind of quant.i.ty, a large dish of mixed seafood on ice is a more attractive way of presenting oysters. On our way to Touraine we sometimes stop the night at Mont St Michel, where this kind of hors d'oeuvre forms a regular part of the menu. The arrangement is simple but effective. Dark seaweed trails over a bed of ice, and contrasts with a large red crab, the orange of mussels in their black and pearly sh.e.l.ls, with the shrimps and winkles and the restrained transparency of the few oysters. Sometimes there are a few raw palourdes palourdes (carpet-sh.e.l.ls) as well, or (carpet-sh.e.l.ls) as well, or praires praires which are the local clams. Lemon quarters and a generous bowl of lemon-flavoured mayonnaise are part of the dish. In France, they will usually provide you with little forks for the oyster (then you drink the juice from the sh.e.l.l), but I have the feeling this is frowned on in superior English circles. Not being a nimble eater myself, I think that forks are a good idea, unless you have the good luck to be eating the oysters on a quayside in the sun and it doesn't matter if you get in a mess. which are the local clams. Lemon quarters and a generous bowl of lemon-flavoured mayonnaise are part of the dish. In France, they will usually provide you with little forks for the oyster (then you drink the juice from the sh.e.l.l), but I have the feeling this is frowned on in superior English circles. Not being a nimble eater myself, I think that forks are a good idea, unless you have the good luck to be eating the oysters on a quayside in the sun and it doesn't matter if you get in a mess.

If you want to cook the oysters, put them on a bed of coa.r.s.e sea salt, pressing them down, or on a flat disc of bread with holes cut into it in which the sh.e.l.ls can rest. I prefer the latter system, as any juices which spill over in preparation and cooking will be soaked up in a most edible way, and will not be wasted.

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK.

I think this is a savoury which is much better eaten at the beginning of a meal. Quite apart from the work required at the wrong end of a dinner, I find that savouries spoil the sequence of wines that you may be serving.

Although this savoury came from France in the mid-nineteenth century, it was soon a top English speciality. Allow three large oysters for each person. Wrap each one, after seasoning it with a drop of anchovy essence, 23 drops of lemon juice and a tiny pinch of cayenne, in a thin strip of streaky bacon. Impale them on to wooden c.o.c.ktail sticks, three rolls per stick. Have ready a piece of bread fried in b.u.t.ter for each stick. Fry the rolls in clarified b.u.t.ter*, or brush them with b.u.t.ter and grill them under a high heat, then put on the bread. The cooking should be brief and the angels eaten promptly.

Sheila Hutchins points out that mussels or pieces of scallop can be used instead of oysters.

CHICKEN AND OYSTER GUMBO.

The gumbo stews of the southern states of America are often given their defining character by okra. The difference between this recipe and the Mediterranean type of stew is the inclusion of peppers and chilli or cayenne.

The stew is equally good made with mussels.

Serves 6250 g (8 oz) gammon rasher, cubed1 farm chicken, jointed125 g (4 oz) chopped onion1 clove garlic, chopped1 red pepper, chopped, minus seeds or or 1 dried chilli chopped, with seeds 1 dried chilli chopped, with seeds375 g (12 oz) okra, trimmed, slicedlard and any fat from the chicken above1 tablespoon plain flour250 g (8 oz) chopped tomato1 tablespoon tomato concentratechicken stock or or water waterbouquet garnisalt, pepper, cayenne or or Tabasco sauce Tabasco sauce12 dozen oystersparsley Brown the gammon and chicken, onion, garlic, red pepper or chilli and okra in the lard and chicken fat. You will have to do this in batches, transferring each item as it colours to a large pot and adding more lard as necessary; start with the meat and colour it over a sharpish heat, then lower the temperature for the vegetables, so that they soften and do not become too brown. When the last batch is ready, stir in the flour, cook for a couple of minutes, then add the tomato, concentrate and enough stock or water to make a slightly thickened sauce. Tip this over the contents in the large pot, adding extra liquid if need be, barely to cover the meat and vegetables. Put in the bouquet and seasoning (if you use chilli rather than red peppers, go lightly with the cayenne or Tabasco). Simmer, with the pot covered, until the chicken is tender about one hour or longer. Meanwhile open the oysters, being careful to save all their juice. Ten minutes before serving the gumbo, mix in the oysters and their liquor to heat through. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Remove the bouquet, and add a good chopping of parsley. Served with boiled rice.

HUiTRES FARCIES GRILLeES.

This is my favourite way of cooking oysters (it also happens to be my favourite way of cooking mussels and clams). No other recipe can equal it for piquancy and delight. Garlic b.u.t.ter goes beautifully with oysters, the top layer of crumbs and grated cheese give the dish a crisp edge. Put plenty of good bread on the table, so that all the juices can be mopped up and enjoyed.

Serves 648 oysters, scrubbed and opened6 dinner-plate circles of bread cut from a round loafb.u.t.ter4 level tablespoons finely grated dry Cheddar cheeseGARLIC b.u.t.tER2 cloves garlic, finely chopped3 level tablespoons finely chopped shallot68 tablespoons finely chopped parsley375 g (12 oz) unsalted b.u.t.tersalt, freshly ground black pepper Pour off the liquor from the oysters and keep in the freezer for another dish. Cut 8 holes in each circle of bread with a pet.i.t fours cutter and finely crumb the bread you remove. Lightly b.u.t.ter enough baking sheets or heatproof plates to take the circles of bread. Mix the breadcrumbs with the Cheddar.

Make the garlic b.u.t.ter, see see p. 244 p. 244. Spread the b.u.t.ter over the oysters and settle 8 oysters on each bread circle. Scatter the tops with the breadcrumb and cheese mixture and put under the grill or in a very hot oven until they are browned and bubbling.

In ordinary household circ.u.mstances, use both oven and grill, swopping the trays round so that everything is ready at the same time. The cooking time should be brief, as overdone oysters can be tough 10 minutes maximum.

NOTE The method is the same for mussels and clams, except that they are opened in a different way, in a saucepan over a good heat ( The method is the same for mussels and clams, except that they are opened in a different way, in a saucepan over a good heat (see pp. 239 pp. 239 and and 78 78).

OMELETTE AUX HUiTRES (OR MOULES).

Allow 6 oysters or 8 large mussels per person. Open the sh.e.l.lfish in the usual way and drain. Stew a tablespoon of chopped shallot per person in some b.u.t.ter until soft and golden, add a little chopped garlic and rather more chopped parsley. Then put in the sh.e.l.lfish to heat through briefly but be very careful not to overcook them.

Make the omelette (s) in the usual way, with eggs, b.u.t.ter and seasoning, and put the filling in the centre before flipping it over. Serve immediately.

Omelette Normande Use fewer oysters or mussels and add some peeled shrimps or prawns together with about 250 g (8 oz) mushrooms for 46 servings. Make 450 ml (15 fl oz) sauce Normande* and use half this to bind together the sh.e.l.lfish; heat through gently, taking care not to overcook the sh.e.l.lfish.

Make the omelette(s) in the usual way, and put the filling in the centre. Pour the remaining sauce, which should also be hot, round the omelette and, if possible, decorate with slices of black truffle. Serve immediately.

OYSTERS IN STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING.

This favourite English dish does not, it seems, go back more than around 150 years. Eliza Acton, in Modern Cookery Modern Cookery of 1845, calls a steak pudding John Bull's pudding which suggests a certain national fame which had spread to other countries. Mrs Beeton's recipe in of 1845, calls a steak pudding John Bull's pudding which suggests a certain national fame which had spread to other countries. Mrs Beeton's recipe in Household Management Household Management of 1859 is the first to add the essential kidney. The recipe was sent to Mrs Beeton by a reader of Mr Beeton's magazine for women, of 1859 is the first to add the essential kidney. The recipe was sent to Mrs Beeton by a reader of Mr Beeton's magazine for women, The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine; the reader came from Suss.e.x, a county which had been famous for its puddings of all kinds for at least a century so it is fitting that such a well-liked national dish should have had its roots there.