To make the souse, crush the spices down to and including the allspice to a powder with pestle and mortar. Add the crushed garlic and reduce to a paste. Put into a pan with the remaining salt, 125 ml (4 fl oz) wine vinegar, oregano, bay leaves, toasted garlic and sugar, stir and bring to the boil. Add the olive oil, the rest of the vinegar and 300 ml (10 fl oz) water. Bring to the boil again.

Drain and dry the slices of fish. Fry them in the groundnut or safflower oil on each side, until barely cooked, 35 minutes a side depending on the fish. Put them into a serving dish in a single layer and pour the hot souse over them. Set aside to pickle for at least 2 hours Mrs Kennedy remarks that although an Escabeche keeps for a long time, as Hannah Gla.s.se pointed out, it is best just a few hours after it has been made, 'so that the fish has had time to absorb the spicy souse, but has not been left long enough to become vinegary and hard'.

Garnish finally with the chillis. Pour enough boiling water over the onion rings to cover them generously, leave them for a moment or two, then drain them and put them over the fish.

NOTE See p. 490 p. 490 for another version of Escabeche which uses smelts. for another version of Escabeche which uses smelts.

MAQUEREAUX AUX GROSEILLES.

The French may call gooseberries groseilles a maquereau groseilles a maquereau, but this Normandy recipe is the only one I have been able to find in which the name is justified.

Serves 66 medium-sized mackerel, cleaned and slashed500 g (1 lb) gooseberries, topped and tailed60 g (2 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter6 level tablespoons stale breadcrumbs175 ml (6 fl oz) creme fraiche or or half soured, half double cream half soured, half double creamsalt, pepper, sugar To make the stuffing and sauce, cook the gooseberries in half the b.u.t.ter in a covered enamel, stainless steel or non-stick pan. Mix about a third of the gooseberries with the breadcrumbs. Season and divide between the mackerel. Add the cream (s) to the gooseberries remaining, season with a little sugar and add some pepper if you like.

Grill the mackerel or bake them uncovered in a hot oven. Reheat the sauce, beating in the last of the b.u.t.ter. Serve with the mackerel, and plenty of wholemeal bread.

VARIATION Currants or cranberries or rhubarb could be used instead of gooseberries. Currants or cranberries or rhubarb could be used instead of gooseberries.

MAQUEREAU AU VIN BLANC.

This is a delicious first course dish which can be prepared up to eight days in advance, and kept in the refrigerator. If you take care over cutting the vegetables, it can look most appetizing. Serve it with unsalted b.u.t.ter and wholemeal or rye bread, with Muscadet to drink.

Serves 6126 herrings, cleaned1 level teaspoon aniseed or or pickling spice pickling spice1 fresh red hot chilli, seeded1 bay leafsaltcourt bouillon* with white wine with white wine Put the fish into a pan so that they fit closely, head to tail. Scatter over them the spices, chilli, bay leaf and salt. Pour on the court bouillon with its vegetables. Bring slowly to the boil, let it bubble twice vigorously, then cover and remove from the heat.

By the time the fish has cooled to tepid, it will be cooked. Remove the skin and bone, so that you have twelve nice looking fillets. Put them in a dish, with the red chilli cut into strips, 1 or 2 slices of carrot from the bouillon, and 1 bay leaf. Season if necessary.

Taste the court bouillon. It needs to be strongly flavoured, so reduce by boiling it down if necessary. When cool, strain it over the fish to cover it. Put film across the dish and refrigerate for at least 2 days.

Pour off most of the liquid before serving the mackerel, so that the dish does not look sloppy.

NOTE Herring can be treated in the same way, or pilchards and large sardines. The recipe is the French equivalent of English soused herring and mackerel, but the flavour is finer because white wine is used instead of vinegar. A good dry cider can be used instead of wine. Herring can be treated in the same way, or pilchards and large sardines. The recipe is the French equivalent of English soused herring and mackerel, but the flavour is finer because white wine is used instead of vinegar. A good dry cider can be used instead of wine.

MACKEREL WITH PEARS, PORT AND GINGER.

This is a recipe adapted from one in The Encyclopaedia of Fish Cookery The Encyclopaedia of Fish Cookery, by A. J. McClane.

Serves 66 fillets of Spanish or cero mackerel or or 6 whole mackerel, cleaned, slashed 6 whole mackerel, cleaned, slashedsalt, pepper6fine pearspared rind and juice of 1 small lemon4 tablespoons caster sugar175 ml (6 fl oz) port3 drained k.n.o.bs of preserved ginger375 ml (12 fl oz) soured creamwatercress salad with a light vinaigrette Season the fish with salt and pepper. Peel, quarter and core the pears, dropping them into water with half the lemon juice.

Put 2 teaspoons of lemon juice, a wide strip of lemon rind, the sugar, port and 450 ml (15 fl oz) water into a pan. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 5 minutes. Drain and then poach the pears in this syrup until tender, adding the ginger at the same time. Scoop out the pears and ginger to a dish. Reduce the cooking liquor to a fairly thick syrup and pour over the fruit.

Grill the mackerel in the usual way.

Put the soured cream into a bowl to serve as a sauce. Place the mackerel on warm plates, arranging the pears down one side with a very little of their syrup and the watercress salad on the other.

VARIATION If you wish to make a nut or seed oil vinaigrette for the watercress, toast some of the appropriate nuts or seeds and scatter them over the pears and mackerel discreetly. If you wish to make a nut or seed oil vinaigrette for the watercress, toast some of the appropriate nuts or seeds and scatter them over the pears and mackerel discreetly.

MAKO see see SHARKS SHARKS

MONKFISH OR ANGLER-FISH.

Lophius piscatorius [image]

The great fish apart by which I mean sole, lobster, turbot, eel my own favourite both to cook and eat is monkfish, or angler-fish. Its beautiful sweet flavour and succulent firmness of flesh have led some writers to compare it with lobster not really fair, I think, to either, but it gives a hint of the monkfish's virtues.

Although a fair weight is landed in Britain each year, and although it is a common enough fish round our coasts, monkfish was not always easy to buy until recent years. Now, thankfully, it is available almost everywhere, and is found on the menus of most good restaurants.

We first came across it in Normandy, Brittany and Touraine, and now find it everywhere in France. Look out for Bourride de lotte, Gigot de mer, and dishes of monkfish with mayonnaise. We have eaten Lotte sauce Choron, the fish poached in a court bouillon and served with sauce Choron* and Lotte Normande, poached and served with a Normandy sauce* and mussels. You can prepare monkfish in the same way as Turbot au poivre (p. 436).

Monkfish is beloved of French chefs and housewives because, like sole, it can be partnered by many beautiful sauces, each enhancing the other. Cream* or hollandaise* or tomato* sauces in their variety can turn 1 kg (12 lb) of monkfish into a feast. And cold, with mayonnaise*, it is one of the best summer dishes I know.

HOW TO CHOOSE MONKFISH.

In markets and fishmongers', it is always sold without its head, and can easily be pa.s.sed over. The general shape is that of a slightly squashed cone, anything from 30 cm (1 foot) long upwards. The flesh looks milky and smoothly solid rather than flaked, like cod or haddock. In the centre you will observe a single cartilaginous spine. As it tends to be an expensive fish, it is usually sold in steaks cut across the body, but if you can afford it, a tailpiece of 11 kg (23 lb) makes an excellent dish (see Lotte en gigot). In my experience the larger fish have the best flavour. I once bought some small tail-pieces, thinking they would be even more delicate. They weren't, they were rather tasteless. I should have taken warning from the lower price; fishmongers in France know what they are selling. The small bits and pieces sold as Lotte en gigot). In my experience the larger fish have the best flavour. I once bought some small tail-pieces, thinking they would be even more delicate. They weren't, they were rather tasteless. I should have taken warning from the lower price; fishmongers in France know what they are selling. The small bits and pieces sold as joues de lotte joues de lotte what we should call monkfish 'k.n.o.bs' by a.n.a.logy with skate 'k.n.o.bs' are quite pleasant, but again they cannot be compared in flavour with the large steaks. what we should call monkfish 'k.n.o.bs' by a.n.a.logy with skate 'k.n.o.bs' are quite pleasant, but again they cannot be compared in flavour with the large steaks.

The reason for the monkfish's invariably headless state is that this appendage is thought to be too horrifying for the customer's sensibilities. In fact, it is both curious and interesting, because the first dorsal fin emerges right over the snout, and is prolonged into a supple rod with a tiny 'flag' at the end. The fish snozzles its way into the sandy or muddy bed of the sea the French name baudroie baudroie is said to have the same origin as the word is said to have the same origin as the word boue boue, meaning mud invisible on account of its matching colour. It gently waves this plumed rod in front of its capacious jaws, waiting to lure fish into Jonah-like oblivion. It doesn't stop at fish either. This greedy and well-named angler has been known to trap quite sizeable sea birds, at low water.

LOTTE a L'AMeRICAINE This is one of the best way of serving monkfish which, like lobster, has a firm enough flesh to marry well with the strong flavours of the sauce.

Serves 61 kg (3 lb) monkfishseasoned flour2 shallots, chopped3 onions, chopped1 large clove garlic, chopped125 ml (4 fl oz) olive oil90 ml (3fl oz) brandygenerous 450 ml (15 fl oz) dry white wine375500 g (-1 lb) large ripe tomatoes, peeled, choppedbouquet garni1 tablespoon tomato concentrate1 teaspoon sugarsalt, pepper, cayennechopped parsley and tarragon to garnishcroutons of bread fried in olive oil to garnish Cut the fish in pieces and turn in seasoned flour. Meanwhile fry the shallot, onion and garlic in the oil until they begin to colour. Add the fish; when it is lightly browned, warm half of the brandy, set it alight and pour it into the pan, stirring the contents about in the flames. When these die down, remove the fish to a warm plate.

Pour the wine into the pan, add tomatoes, bouquet, tomato concentrate, sugar and seasonings. Boil hard to reduce to a well-flavoured sauce it must not be watery. Allow 2030 minutes for this.

Return the fish to the sauce and simmer gently until cooked, about 1015 minutes, adding the rest of the brandy at the same time. Arrange on a hot serving dish, sprinkle with parsley and tarragon, and tuck the croutons of bread round the edge. This is one of the finest fish recipes.

LOTTE EN BROCHETTE.

Monkfish cut into chunks makes an excellent fish for grilling on skewers. Here are two suggestions. Allow 1015 minutes cooking time and turn the skewers occasionally. One and a quarter kilograms (2 lb) of fish should be just enough for six people, but 1 kg (3 lb) would be better.

(1) Put on the skewers 2-cm (1-inch) cubes of monkfish with 1 large mussel, a square of unsmoked bacon, and a piece of bay leaf between them. Brush with olive oil. When grilled, serve on a bed of rice, with tomato sauce in which the juices of the grill pan have been incorporated.(2) Soak for an hour in olive oil 2-cm (1-inch) cubes of monkfish flavoured with rosemary and oregano, along with pieces of tomato and sweet pepper and onion which has been blanched for 5 minutes in boiling water. Cook on skewers. Serve with b.u.t.ter and plenty of pepper, or with the following very simplified form of beurre blanc: soften, but do not melt, 125 g (4 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter over warm water; off the heat, add the juice of a lemon, drop by drop, beating all the time as if you were making a mayonnaise. Flavour with salt and cayenne.

LOTTE EN GIGOT.

A tailpiece of monkfish does have a similar shape to a leg of lamb hence the gigot. Here, and in the next recipe, are two variations of this popular French recipe, which can also be used for other firm fish.

Serves 61-1 kg (23 lb) tailpiece of monkfish200 ml (7 fl oz) olive oilsalt, pepper125 ml (4 fl oz) warm water1 kg (2 lb) tomatoes, peeled and chopped2 cloves garlic, chopped1 tablespoon parsley, chopped500 g (1 lb) mushrooms, washed and quartered125175 ml (46 fl oz) double creamlemon juice, extra parsley Put the fish into a presentable, ovenproof dish, pour 90 ml (3 fl oz) oil over it, and season. Place in a hot oven (gas 7, 220 C/425 F) for 15 minutes, then turn the heat down to moderate (gas 4, 180C/ 350F). Add the water and leave for another 30 minutes, basting from time to time.

Meanwhile make the sauce: cook the tomatoes in 60 ml (2 fl oz) of oil until they are reduced to a thick puree; add garlic and parsley. At the same time, in another pan, cook the mushrooms in the rest of the oil. Season.

When the fish is just done, mix the tomatoes, mushrooms and cream together and pour them over the fish. Stir well, check seasoning, and add lemon juice if required, and return to a hot oven, for 5 minutes (gas 7, 220C/425F). Serve in the cooking dish.

GIGOT DE MER a LA PALAVASIENNE.

This recipe is from Languedoc. Pique Pique the monkfish with 4 cloves of garlic, cut into slivers, and season it. Make a Ratatouille by cooking 3 chopped onions and 3 chopped cloves of garlic in some olive oil. As they soften, add 3 sweet peppers cut in strips. As they soften in turn, add 250 g (8 oz) each of sliced aubergines and courgettes, and, after 10 minutes, 500 g (1 lb) peeled, chopped tomatoes. Simmer steadily for 45 minutes, uncovered. When you have a well-flavoured, unwatery stew, put it into an ovenproof dish, lay the fish on top and bake in a moderate to fairly hot oven (gas 45, 180190C/350375F) for 3045 minutes. Turn the fish over from time to time. the monkfish with 4 cloves of garlic, cut into slivers, and season it. Make a Ratatouille by cooking 3 chopped onions and 3 chopped cloves of garlic in some olive oil. As they soften, add 3 sweet peppers cut in strips. As they soften in turn, add 250 g (8 oz) each of sliced aubergines and courgettes, and, after 10 minutes, 500 g (1 lb) peeled, chopped tomatoes. Simmer steadily for 45 minutes, uncovered. When you have a well-flavoured, unwatery stew, put it into an ovenproof dish, lay the fish on top and bake in a moderate to fairly hot oven (gas 45, 180190C/350375F) for 3045 minutes. Turn the fish over from time to time.

MONKFISH FRITTERS WITH SKORDALIA.

This is a favourite Greek dish and you can make it with monkfish or any white fish from fresh cod to John Dory; you can also use salt cod which has been well soaked. It is served with Skordalia, the Greek version of ailloli*, the pungent mayonnaise given solidity by the addition of breadcrumbs or potatoes. The first version of the sauce is taken from Elizabeth David's Book of Mediterranean Food Book of Mediterranean Food, and the second is a recipe sent to me by a Greek reader.

1 kg (2 lb) monkfishsalt, pepper125 g (4 oz) plain flour1 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon each of powdered bay leaf and rigani1 egg1 tablespoon olive oiloil for deep frying Season the fish as required, after drying it. Cut it into six even-sized pieces. Mix the batter ingredients with enough warm water to give a batter consistency about 8 tablespoons. If you are not sure about this, cook a tiny trial fritter, and add more water or flour accordingly.

Dip the fish pieces in the batter and deep-fry in the oil for about 810 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. Serve at once with the Skordalia.

(1).

6 cloves garlic 2 egg yolks 150 ml (5 fl oz) oil 60 g (2 oz) fresh white breadcrumbs 60 g (2 oz) ground almonds lemon juice, parsley

Pound the garlic, add the yolks, then the oil, drop by drop. Stir in the breadcrumbs and almonds. Season with lemon juice and parsley.

(2).

3 or more cloves garlic 5-cm (2-inch) slice of stale white bread, from a small loaf 100 g (good 3 oz) blanched, grated almonds 125 ml (4 fl oz) olive oil wine vinegar, salt

Crush the garlic well in a mortar. Cut the crusts from the bread, soak it with water and squeeze out any surplus this makes a thick paste. Add it to the garlic, pounding well, then mix in the almonds gradually, pounding all the time. When you have a h.o.m.ogeneous mixture, start adding the oil drop by drop at first, as for a mayonnaise. Finally sharpen and season to taste with vinegar and salt. The sauce can be made in a blender, or with an electric beater, but the garlic should be crushed by itself before you start, to make sure it is reduced enough to mix completely into the sauce.

MONKFISH IN THORNBURY CASTLE STYLE.

Although a great deal of monkfish is caught around Britain, it has taken the French to show us how good it is. Kenneth Bell uses ginger, an ingredient much loved by the English, to nationalize a French method of cooking it.

Serves 46 (see recipe) recipe)1 kg (2 lb) monkfish60 g (2 oz) clarified b.u.t.ter45 g (1 oz) ginger preserved in syrup, thinly sliced30 g (1 oz) carrot julienne30 g (1 oz) celery julienne30 g (1 oz) leek juliennesalt, pepper150 ml (5 fl oz) Dry Martiniabout 2 tablespoons Crabbies or Stone's green ginger wine300 ml (10 fl oz) Jersey double or or whipping cream whipping creamsmall quant.i.ty dill or parsleypuff pastry crescents (optional) Skin and bone the fish. Cut flesh into bite-sized cubes, giving 750 g (1 lb) weight. Heat b.u.t.ter in a large heavy frying pan. When very hot, stir in the fish, turning it over, then add 30 g (1 oz) of the ginger, the julienne of vegetables, seasoning, vermouth and ginger wine. Cook fast for 5 minutes, turning everything from time to time. Pour in cream. Mix and simmer 5 minutes. Check for seasoning, adding more ginger both sliced and liquid as required, or more vermouth or cream. If there is too much sauce monkfish can give out a lot of liquid remove the fish, which must not be overcooked, and boil down the sauce to the right syrupy consistency, then put the fish back.

Divide between four plates, with a light sprinkling of dill or parsley, and a couple of puff pastry crescents which provide the right crisp contrast.

Mr Bell's clients include many st.u.r.dy appet.i.tes: I would serve this quant.i.ty to six people as a first course.

MONKFISH STEAKS WITH BACON (Darnes de Lotte au Lard) Steaks darnes darnes from several kinds of white fish can be cooked in this way, with slight variations of timing according to their thickness and the texture of the fish. Ling is a favourite in Normandy, but cod, haddock and monkfish are more likely choices in this country. Buy a piece of top-quality smoked streaky bacon, rather than rashers. from several kinds of white fish can be cooked in this way, with slight variations of timing according to their thickness and the texture of the fish. Ling is a favourite in Normandy, but cod, haddock and monkfish are more likely choices in this country. Buy a piece of top-quality smoked streaky bacon, rather than rashers.

The success of the dish depends on careful cooking in the early stages, never letting the b.u.t.ter burn. This way the flavours acc.u.mulate and blend.

Serves 66 monkfish steakssalt, pepper100 g (3 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter250 g (8 oz) chopped onion200 g (7 oz) piece of smoked streaky bacon, skinned and dicedseasoned flour, plus 1 tablespoon plain flour150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine150 ml (5 fl oz) water150 ml (5 fl oz) creme fraiche or or half soured, half double cream half soured, half double cream1 tablespoon wine vinegarchopped parsley Season the steaks with salt and pepper and set them aside. In half the b.u.t.ter, soften the onion. When it is tender, raise the heat slightly and add the bacon dice. Fry them until they are lightly coloured. Push them to one side of the pan, or remove them with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Dry the fish steaks, turn them in the seasoned flour and colour them lightly on both sides in the same pan. When they are almost done but still pink at the bone, remove everything from the pan and keep warm.

Add the rest of the b.u.t.ter to the pan, stir in the flour and cook it for a minute. Add the wine and water gradually. Let the sauce cook down quickly, bring the creme fraiche to the boil and add it with a little of the vinegar. Check the seasoning, adding extra vinegar if you like. Put back the fish, onion and bacon and barely simmer until the fish is cooked, about 5 minutes. Transfer everything to a serving dish, sprinkle a pinch of parsley on each steak and serve.

PADANG SOUR-SHARP MONKFISH (Pangek Ikan) The subtlety of this recipe is in the three acidities of lemon, lemon gra.s.s and star fruit. Macadamia nuts are to be found in good grocers and some health-food shops: as a last resort, use Brazil nuts, which have a similar waxiness. The dish can also be made with fresh tuna, bonito or grouper.

Serves 67 macadamia nuts or or Brazil nuts Brazil nuts2 medium onions, sliced2 large cloves fresh young garlic1 level tablespoon fresh ground chilli, including seeds2 x -cm (less than -inch) slices ginger root, peeled level teaspoon turmeric500 g (1 lb) sliced monkfish1 teaspoon salt2 tablespoons lemon juice1 stalk lemon gra.s.s, bruised6 small bilimbi or or 3 unripe carambola 3 unripe carambola or or lemon cut in thin wedges lemon cut in thin wedges Chop or process the first six ingredients to a smooth paste. Set the fish to marinade for 45 minutes in the salt and lemon juice. In a heavy pan that will take the fish in a single layer, put the paste, 4 tablespoons water and the lemon gra.s.s. Bring to simmering point, slice and slip in the bilimbi or carambola, or add the lemon wedges. Cook gently for 5 minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking.

Put in the fish, turning it over so that it is coated, then cook it until just tender (about 10 minutes). Shake the pan gently and turn the fish carefully so that the slices do not collapse. Remove the pan from the heat and cool down. Cover and leave until next day.

Reheat carefully (which is why you should avoid overcooking the fish in the first place it continues to cook as it cools down).

MOONFISH see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... OPAH OPAH MUSKELLUNGE see see PIKE PIKE

MUSSELS.

Mytilidae spp. spp.

[image]

Walking along the sh.o.r.e at Gullane a few years ago, chewing an occasional coral berry from the sea buckthorn which grows there in great banks, we were startled to see a scatter of vast mussel sh.e.l.ls, giants of a brilliant navy blue, 10 cm (4 inches) and more long. In some of them we discovered huge mussels of a blazing orange. As we were so near the evident pollution of Edinburgh we made no attempt to gather them for a later feast, but I brought some sh.e.l.ls home to use as little dishes for stuffed and creamed mussels of a more ordinary size.

At the other end of the scale come the small, sweet, delicate mussels grown on wooden posts in the shallow waters of western France. We visited Esnandes once, in search of its Mouclade and its spectacular fortified church. An astonishing sight, the Anse de l'Aiguillon, stuck with posts to the distant horizon, and fishermen gliding in and out in punts, harvesting the great bunches of mussels. Cultivation has been going on in the vast bay since 1253, or so legend has it. An Irishman was shipwrecked and survived by netting seabirds. Gradually he observed that increasing colonies of mussels were clinging to the posts. So he put up more of them and invented a flat-bottomed boat or accon accon to work his way from post to post. These to work his way from post to post. These moules de bouchot bouchot moules de bouchot bouchot is used both for the posts and the whole mussel-farming area are ideal for Moules mariniere as well as the local Mouclade. is used both for the posts and the whole mussel-farming area are ideal for Moules mariniere as well as the local Mouclade.

This is not to say that the medium-sized mussels are to be despised, whether here or in France. Not at all. My one complaint as far as Britain is concerned is that they are not sold in the holiday season. Why not, I wonder? It would be fun to make that strange barbecue of the Ile d'Oleron known as an eclade eclade or or eglade eglade. There it is the great family picnic on the beach. You need a really thick plank of wood, well moistened and steadied on stones so that it lies flat. In the centre you have four nails. Or else you use a large piece of thick slate and cut a potato so that it sits firmly in the centre. Against nails or potato you prop up four of your largest mussels, hinge to the sky, convex curve turned out towards you. This is your base. Around them you continue to prop up mussels in the same way, keeping the smallest for the outside, until you have a great rosette. This is covered with dry pine needles and small pine twigs to make a bed about 12 cm (5 inches) thick. You put a light to it and by the time the flames die down, the mussels have opened and are ready to eat, with bread and plenty of Charentes b.u.t.ter and a dry white wine, once you have fanned away the ashes.

You may wonder why mussels do not play a larger part in our diet. It seems to me that they have, as it were, come up in the world in the last thirty years. Unlike lobsters, crabs, scallops and oysters, they have played no part either here or in France in grand cookery, haute cuisine. They were of interest to eighteenth-century middle-cla.s.s families, judging by the recipes in cookery books of the time for scalloped mussels, mussel stews, pickled mussels. But by the mid-nineteenth century they seem to have disappeared: no recipes appear in Mrs Beeton or and this is more surprising in Eliza Acton. Ca.s.sell's Dictionary Ca.s.sell's Dictionary of the 1880s gives a number of mussel dishes and comments that we should eat more, but people are frightened of being poisoned. In other words mussels were an even more rapid casualty of our industrial revolution than oysters. of the 1880s gives a number of mussel dishes and comments that we should eat more, but people are frightened of being poisoned. In other words mussels were an even more rapid casualty of our industrial revolution than oysters.

In France, where estuaries and sh.o.r.es suffered less from pollution, mussels have appeared on menus for a long time. Many of us first learned to enjoy them there. I would say they are very much part of that pa.s.sionate search for regional food that began at the end of the last century and took off on Michelin tyres with Curnonsky, and with the aid of the first Michelin maps. Knowing people, the ones who read Boulestin's books in the thirties in Britain, might have served mussels from time to time, but their popularity has risen only since Elizabeth David gave a good number of recipes for them in the fifties and then in French Provincial Cooking French Provincial Cooking in 1960. The bonus of our past neglect of mussels is their low price today. I am sure that this cannot last remember what happened to monkfish, which in 1970 you could buy for 35P a pound. Make the most of mussels, while they are still at a price that makes experimentation possible. in 1960. The bonus of our past neglect of mussels is their low price today. I am sure that this cannot last remember what happened to monkfish, which in 1970 you could buy for 35P a pound. Make the most of mussels, while they are still at a price that makes experimentation possible.

TO OPEN MUSSELS.

METHOD 1 1.

Pick over the mussels and remove any that are cracked or that remain obstinately open when tapped with a sharp knife. Occasionally you will come across a mussel that is extraordinarily heavy for its size: this usually means it is full of tarry mud. Either throw it away, or open it separately if you are not quite sure.

Scrub the mussels under the cold tap, then sc.r.a.pe off any barnacles and accretions. Remove the fine black 'beard' with a sharp tug and rinse the mussels in a large bowl of cold water.

Have ready a colander set over a basin to take the mussels as they are opened.

Turn the heat on your hob to very high. Take a wide heavy saute pan and put in a close single layer of mussels. Put on the lid. Set over the heat and leave for 30 seconds. Check to see if the mussels are open. Remove any that are, put back the lid and leave for another 10 seconds. The point is to give the mussels the minimum time possible over the heat (ignore cookery book instructions suggesting 2 minutes or even longer: this is unnecessary if you open mussels in single layer batches). When all are opened, remove and cook the next and subsequent batches.

Finally strain the mussel liquor through doubled muslin or other cloth to remove the sandy grit and mud.

METHOD 2 2.

As above, but should the final preparation of the mussels involve wine, shallot, parsley and so on, put these into the saute pan and heat to boiling before putting in the first layer of mussels. In this way you get a more thorough blend of the flavours, but no liquid is necessary necessary when opening mussels. when opening mussels.

METHOD 3 3.

After scrubbing and sc.r.a.ping the mussels, open them like oysters with a thin pointed knife. This is tricky and it is easy to damage the sh.e.l.ls, but if you intend to eat the mussels raw as part of a sh.e.l.lfish platter or if you intend to stuff them, this is what you need to do.

Five hundred grams (1 lb) mussels is about the same as 600 ml (1 pt). They provide you with about 90 g (3 oz) mussel meat, sometimes 125 g (4 oz).

CATALAN MUSSEL SOUP.

Serves 61 kg (2 lb) mussels, scrubbed and sc.r.a.ped150 g (5 oz) onion, chopped3 tablespoons olive oil375 g (12 oz) tomatoes, peeled, roughly choppedup to 450 ml (15 fl oz) light fish stock or or water water2 large cloves garlic, halved3 good sprigs parsley90 g (3 oz) bread, toasted3 tablespoons brandy teaspoon ground cinnamonsalt, pepper Open the mussels by method i. Meanwhile, stew the onions in the oil until golden. Add the tomatoes and bubble them for a few minutes before pouring in the mussel liquor and 300 ml (10 fl oz) fish stock or water.

Put the garlic, parsley, bread, brandy and cinnamon into a processor or blender and reduce to crumbs. Add to the soup which it will thicken. Dilute, according to taste, with the remaining stock or water. Correct the seasoning. Add the mussels, and serve.

CELERY AND MUSSEL SALAD (Celeri en Salade aux Moules) If you want to serve this salad as a first course, reduce the quant.i.ties of mussels and potatoes by one-third, or more depending on the rest of the meal. I find this dish ideal for Christmas and New Year meals; the fresh flavour cuts into the heavy eating of that time of the year in a vigorous way.

Serves 6500 g (1 lb) potatoes, preferably Desiree3 kg (good 5 lb) mussels, opened by method 2100 ml (34 fl oz) dry white wine1 head celery300 ml (10 fl oz) mayonnaiseDijon mustard4 shallots, chopped or or 4 heaped tablespoons chopped onion 4 heaped tablespoons chopped onion3 hard-boiled eggschopped parsley Scrub and boil the potatoes in their skins. Peel and dice them into a bowl while still warm. Meanwhile prepare the mussels as directed, first putting in the shallots or onion and the wine, heat, and leave for 5 minutes. When mussels open, discard the sh.e.l.ls and strain the very hot liquor over the diced potatoes. Leave the mussels and potatoes to cool.