Oysters or mushrooms were the extra flavouring ingredient. In those days, oysters were the cheaper of the two as mushroom cultivation in Europe was a spasmodic and ill-understood business, except around Paris, until the end of the century. The great boom in mushroom production in England didn't occur until after the Second World War by which time, of course, oysters had far outpriced them. Which would have surprised Mrs Beeton because for her and her readers oysters were still commonplace although becoming scarcer with the increase in the population and the pollution of estuaries.

Make the steak and kidney filling in the usual way, leaving it to cool for several hours or overnight. When you wish to make up the pudding, take a critical look at the liquid part of the filling. If it is on the copious and watery side, it is important to strain it off into a pan and boil it down to a more acceptable flavour and consistency because the oysters will contribute their own delicious liquor to the sauce. When you are satisfied with the liquid, open the oysters 1824 for 6 people add them, liquor and all, to the meat and mushroom ingredients. Taste and correct the seasoning. Then finish off the pudding in the usual way.

Oysters are equally delicious in steak and kidney pie.

OYSTERS IN A WHITE WINE SAUCE.

Jonathan Swift tried his hand at verses for the women who cry their wares in and around Dublin. He wrote of Malahide herrings to be eaten with pure fresh b.u.t.ter and mustard 'their bellies are soft, and white as a custard' and of the erotic pleasures stimulated by oysters: Charming Oysters I cry,My Masters come buy,So plump and so freshSo sweet is their Flesh,No Colchester Colchester Oyster, Oyster,Is sweeter and moister,Your Stomach they settle,And rouse up your Mettle,They'll make you a DadOf a La.s.s or a Lad;And Madam your WifeThey'll please to the Life;Be she barren, be she old,Be she s.l.u.t, or be she Scold,Eat my Oysters, and lie near her,She'll be fruitful, never fear her.

I should not pin too much hope on this except that oysters are said to be a most nourishing food, and excellent for your health in general. This latter proposition I find no difficulty in believing. The most exhilarating lunch in the world is a dozen large oysters, a gla.s.s or two of white wine, with bread and b.u.t.ter. After it, you feel light and ready for anything, well fed without fullness.

For dinner, especially dinner with friends who are not used to oysters and might not care to tackle them raw, try this way of cooking them that I came across in Ireland.

Serves 648 large oysters375 ml (1213 fl oz) dry white wine30 g (1 oz) shallot, chopped4 large egg yolks250 g (8 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter300 ml (10 fl oz) double cream, whipped until almost stiffsalt, pepper Open the oysters over a pan, dropping them in with their juice. Arrange eight deep sh.e.l.ls on each of six oyster plates, or plates with a stabilizing layer of seaweed or pierced trencher of bread. Boil wine and shallot until there is barely a tablespoon of wine left. Cool to tepid, beat in the yolks, then beat in the very hot melted b.u.t.ter gradually, to make a hollandaise sauce*. Fold in the whipped cream off the heat and season.

Put oysters over the heat until just stiff a few seconds. Drain keeping liquor for another dish and put into the sh.e.l.ls. Cover each one with sauce and brown under the grill. Serve immediately.

NOTE Scallops can be used instead, allowing three in one sh.e.l.l to each person. Scallops can be used instead, allowing three in one sh.e.l.l to each person.

OYSTER LOAVES.

Another of my favourite recipes for cooking oysters is an old one, popular here and in America in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when oysters were abundant, were the food of the poor.

Serves 66 brioches or or baps baps150 g (5 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted2430 oysters, opened, drained, liquor reserved and strained300 ml (10 fl oz) whipping cream or or creme fraiche creme fraichecayenne pepper or or Tabasco sauce Tabasco saucesalt, freshly ground black pepperlemon juice (optional) Cut the lids neatly from the brioches or baps and take out the crumb, leaving a strong wall. Put 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter into a small non-stick frying pan about 20 cm (8 inches) across. Use the rest to brush out the inside of the brioches or baps; any left over can be brushed over the outside. Put them on a baking sheet into the oven preheated to gas 7, 220C (425F) until they are crisp and nicely toasted. This takes about 10 minutes but the lids can catch easily, so be prepared to remove them after 5 minutes. Switch off the oven and leave the door ajar.

Meanwhile, stiffen the oysters briefly in the 3 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter. Scoop them out and cut them into halves, if large. Tip the oyster juice into the pan and boil it down to a strong essence. Stir in the cream or creme fraiche and bubble steadily until you have a thick-looking sauce. Taste occasionally. If there is a lot of oyster liquor, you may need extra cream alternatively you can stir in some extra unsalted b.u.t.ter at the end. The sauce should be strong but not belligerent. Add the cayenne or Tabasco, seasoning as required and add a few drops of lemon juice if you like.

Place the oysters in the sauce and heat briefly. Divide them between the crisp brioches or baps, replace the lids, garnish with samphire and julienne strips of carrot, and serve, sprinkled with cayenne.

OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER.

This famous dish is said to have been invented at Antoine's, the famous New Orleans restaurant, at the end of the last century. Some inspired customer is said to have remarked that the oysters stuffed in this particular way were 'as rich as Rockefeller'.

Serves 464 dozen oysters, opened125 g (4 oz) b.u.t.ter8 slices crisply cooked bacon, crushed2 handfuls of spinach, finely chopped3 tablespoons chopped parsley3 tablespoons chopped celery leaves3 tablespoons chopped spring onion6 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs teaspoon saltTabasco or or pepper and paprika pepper and paprika1 teaspoon Pernod or pastis Ricard For this dish the oysters are usually arranged, on a bed of coa.r.s.e salt, in 4 or 6 shallow ovenproof plates according to whether you are serving 4 or 6 people.

Melt the b.u.t.ter. Add the bacon crumbs and spinach, and the rest of the ingredients. Cook for 5 or 10 minutes over a low heat, stirring the mixture until you have a lightly cooked stuffing. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Divide among the oysters. Grill or place in a hot oven until the oysters are bubbling and lightly browned. Serve on the plates of salt. Put a few drops of Pernod on each oyster, just before serving; a tip I recommend is to do this with an eye-dropper.

OYSTER SOUP.

This is the most delicate of fish soups, and is the easiest of all to make. Until oysters become cheap again, you might prefer to subst.i.tute mussels, clams or c.o.c.kles. (This is not a bad joke: with modern methods of fish farming, oysters will be large, plentiful and less expensive before many years have pa.s.sed.) Serves 62 dozen oysters or or 1 kg (2 lb) sh.e.l.lfish 1 kg (2 lb) sh.e.l.lfish60 g (2 oz) b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons plain flour600 ml (1 pt) hot milk or or veal stock veal stock teaspoon anchovy essencenutmeg, cayenne pepper150 ml (5 fl oz) double creamsalt, pepperlemon juice, parsley Clean and open the oysters or other sh.e.l.lfish in the usual way. Discard the sh.e.l.ls, but keep the liquor carefully.

Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large pan, stir in the flour and cook gently for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the milk or stock gradually so that the mixture remains smooth. Season with the anchovy essence and a little nutmeg and cayenne. Put in the cream. Simmer for 1530 minutes. Just before serving, add the oysters and their liquor to the pan to heat through. (Don't overcook sh.e.l.lfish, they become tough; oysters are ready when they start start to curl at the edges.) Correct the seasoning with salt, pepper, and more nutmeg and cayenne if you like. If the flavour is not quite sharp enough, lemon juice will bring it out. Pour the soup into a hot bowl, scatter a little parsley on top and don't wait for the dilatory guest to appear because the sh.e.l.lfish will go on cooking in the heat of the soup. to curl at the edges.) Correct the seasoning with salt, pepper, and more nutmeg and cayenne if you like. If the flavour is not quite sharp enough, lemon juice will bring it out. Pour the soup into a hot bowl, scatter a little parsley on top and don't wait for the dilatory guest to appear because the sh.e.l.lfish will go on cooking in the heat of the soup.

OYSTER STEW.

Serves 4700 ml (24 fl oz) single cream or or half milk and half double cream half milk and half double cream24 large oysters, opened, drained, liquor reserved and strainedTabasco saucesalt4 teaspoons b.u.t.terpaprika For this simple cla.s.sic of American cookery, heat the cream with the strained oyster liquor. Add a dash of Tabasco, salt if required and the oysters. Place 1 teaspoon of b.u.t.ter in four bowls and, when the oysters are firm, pour the stew into the bowls. Sprinkle paprika on top and serve with hot b.u.t.tered toast, or oyster crackers if you can get them.

POULTRY WITH OYSTER STUFFING AND SAUCE.

This is an excellent stuffing and sauce for turkey; for a large chicken, halve the quant.i.ties of both recipes. The Portuguese oysters are ideal, but if you cannot buy oysters, try this recipe with mussels. It is a good idea to try the recipe with chicken to start with, to ensure that you like the flavours together.

Oyster Stuffing enough for a 7 kg (14 lb) turkey23 dozen oysters300 g (10 oz) white breadcrumbs made from stale bread150 g (5 oz) chopped suet2 tablespoons heaped parsleygrated rind of 1 lemon2 heaped teaspoons thyme teaspoon each mace, nutmegpinch of cayenne peppersalt, pepper2 large eggs, beaten Open the oysters. Save their liquor for the oyster sauce which is usually served at the same time. Chop the oysters in four, so that the pieces are quite large. Mix them with the remaining ingredients, adding salt and pepper to taste. Stuff the bird and cook as usual.

Oyster Sauce 2 dozen oysters60 g (2 oz) b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons plain flour300 ml (10 fl oz) milk150 ml (5 fl oz) double creamgrated nutmegpinch of cayenne pepperlemon juice Open the oysters, saving their liquor carefully. Put it with the liquor from the stuffing oysters. Chop the oysters themselves into fairly large pieces. With the b.u.t.ter, flour, milk and cream make a smooth bechamel sauce*; add the oyster liquor and simmer for 20 minutes. Season to taste, and sharpen with a little lemon juice. Just before serving the sauce, stir in the chopped oysters they will dilute it slightly. The sauce should be about the consistency of double cream or a little thinner.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS.

Serves 42432 oysters12 teaspoons b.u.t.ter, melted8 tablespoons breadcrumbs1 handful of chopped parsleyfreshly ground black pepper Open and rinse the oysters in their own juice. Drain them well, reserving the juice. Using a little of the melted b.u.t.ter, brush out four ramekins. Mix the breadcrumbs with the parsley; scatter a fine layer of crumbs into each dish, then put on 3 or 4 oysters, some more crumbs, a little pepper and a teaspoon of melted b.u.t.ter. Put 3 or 4 more oysters on top, then the last of the crumbs and b.u.t.ter. Strain the oyster liquid through a muslin and put a teaspoonful into each ramekin.

Stand the ramekins in a metal grill pan and place under a preheated grill until the top crumbs are lightly browned and the oysters are just firm.

PERCH & YELLOW PERCH, WALLEYE, ZANDER & FOGAS Perca fluviatilis & P. flavescens, Stizostedion vitreum, S. lucioperca [image]

Perch of all kinds is undoubtedly worth pursuing, a most desirable fish; one fifteenth-century writer described it as 'daynteous and holsom'. The snag is that one rarely finds any of the perch family for sale, even in France where sandre sandre, the zander or pike-perch, is a special treat of the spring and early summer in Loire country. Fogas in Hungary is, I would judge, more widely sold at least on the sh.o.r.es of Lake Balaton. Obviously perch fishermen, across Europe to China, try to keep their treasure for themselves. As it has been placed next to salmon and trout for deliciousness, and sometimes above trout, one can hardly blame them for their piscatorial greed.

Americans have a better chance than we do in Europe, though the name perch spells confusion since it can include the redfish that we know in Britain, called ocean perch, the white perch which is a kind of ba.s.s and the surfperch of California, all unrelated species. However the yellow perch is very close to our European perch, and is to be found in quant.i.ty around Lake Erie; the Great Lakes, too, are the place for the walleye or walleye pike or yellow pike, the same fish under different names. Most confusing, as it is not a pike at all. It is much fished in Canada in the winter, and is an altogether delicious prospect for the cook who can use sole, trout and pike recipes as well as the ones given below.

Perches have a certain firmness of texture, which is most attractive, though it means you must take care not to overcook them. Small perch can simply be fried, or they can be filleted and turned into fritters. Larger perch can be stuffed and braised in red or white wine, or stewed with prunes, see see Matelote of eel, Matelote of eel, p. 136 p. 136. A favourite recipe of the past was the Dutch freshwater fish stew known here as Water-souchy.

The name perch goes back to ancient Greece, where the fish was known as . A word of the same origin, apparently, as the adjective meaning dusky, like grapes or olives when they begin to ripen. A good description of its body tone. The fins and tail of our European Perca fluviatilis Perca fluviatilis are sometimes the most vivid orange and red, which may account for the Italian name, are sometimes the most vivid orange and red, which may account for the Italian name, pesce persico pesce persico, the fish of ancient Persia.

HAIRDRESSER'S PERCH AND EEL Hairdressing in France is so expensive (and prolonged) that I've become ruthless in exacting compensation. The man who used to do my hair when I wrote the first edition of this book specialized in mushrooms; he was also a great fisherman. Alas no display of English simplicity has managed to extract a map reference for the morels and ceps he found by the kilo every year (such information is part of a family's inheritance, I gather). But with river fish, it was another matter. Between explanations of what was going on at the back of my head, he would deliver himself of heretical culinary opinions.

Take perch, of about 750 g (1 lb), scaled, brined and cleaned. He insisted that the best method is to fry them very slowly very slowly in b.u.t.ter, half an hour on each side I recommend the use of an asbestos mat and clarified b.u.t.ter. The skin turns thick and crisp, a rich golden brown. 'And inside in b.u.t.ter, half an hour on each side I recommend the use of an asbestos mat and clarified b.u.t.ter. The skin turns thick and crisp, a rich golden brown. 'And inside no no, Madame, it does not not get overcooked inside the flesh is moist and full of flavour. But of course, you must drink a good white wine with it. Of course. But better still, when you have a bottle of good white wine, is to drink it as an aperitif with little bits of eel yes, little bits, ooh not much more than a centimetre [about half an inch] long. Flour them and shake them and put them in a chip basket. Keep them in deep hot oil until they are a nice brown. You have to try one to see.' The little bits are turned on to a plate and quickly sprinkled with salt. He was right they go much better with the wine than salted nuts or crisps or even olives. get overcooked inside the flesh is moist and full of flavour. But of course, you must drink a good white wine with it. Of course. But better still, when you have a bottle of good white wine, is to drink it as an aperitif with little bits of eel yes, little bits, ooh not much more than a centimetre [about half an inch] long. Flour them and shake them and put them in a chip basket. Keep them in deep hot oil until they are a nice brown. You have to try one to see.' The little bits are turned on to a plate and quickly sprinkled with salt. He was right they go much better with the wine than salted nuts or crisps or even olives.

PERCH DELMONICO.

A pleasant old-fashioned gratin of perch, that can be used for other river fish, and white fish from the sea.

Serves 6811 kg (23 lb) perch2 litres (4 pt) court bouillon, no. 1*6 hard-boiled eggs...o...b..e quant.i.ty veloute sauce*, made with bouillon, milk and cream or or a creamy mushroom sauce* about 725 ml (1 pt) a creamy mushroom sauce* about 725 ml (1 pt)60 g (2 oz) grated Gruyere cheese3 tablespoons fresh breadcrumbssalt, pepper, paprika Put the scaled and cleaned perch into the cold court bouillon. Bring to the boil and simmer until the fish is just cooked about 20 minutes. Remove the skin and take off the fillets in smallish pieces. Put them into a gratin dish. Cut 12 neat slices from the eggs, as a garnish, and cut the rest into wedges and put them into the dish with the perch. Pour over the hot veloute sauce. Mix the cheese and crumbs and scatter over the top. Brown under the grill. Lay the 12 slices of egg down the centre, scatter with a little salt, pepper and a nice dusting of paprika and serve very hot.

PESCE PeRSICO ALLA SALVIA.

Since the Middle Ages, or I suppose one should say since Roman times, the perch has been appreciated in Italy; a fish 'of great esteem'. Sometimes it is served in the Milanese style (dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, then fried in b.u.t.ter and served with lemon wedges). But this recipe, given in Ada Boni's Italian Regional Cooking Italian Regional Cooking, is more unusual and quite delicious. The Italians are as fond of sage as we are, and they use it more adroitly, with a greater variety of food.

Serves 612 fillets of perchseasoned flour2 eggs, lightly beaten.fine, dry breadcrumbs125 g (4 oz) b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons olive oil12 leaves of sage, roughly choppedMARINADE68 tablespoons olive oiljuice of 1 lemon1 green spring onion, choppedsalt, pepper Mix ingredients to make the marinade, and steep the fish fillets in it for at least an hour, turning them occasionally. Drain and dry. Dip in flour, egg and breadcrumbs. Fry in 90 g (3 oz) b.u.t.ter, and all the oil, until nicely browned. Remove to a warm serving dish. Add the rest of the b.u.t.ter and the chopped sage to the pan. Bring to the boil, stirring vigorously, pour over the fish, and serve at once.

NOTE If you cannot get perch, try this recipe with grayling. If you cannot get perch, try this recipe with grayling.

ZANDER WITH A PIQUANT SAUCE.

Zander, also known as pike-perch, is caught by fishermen in East Anglian waterways. Sometimes, Ann Jarman, who runs the Old Fire Engine House restaurant at Ely, manages to get hold of one, and this is how she cooks it. She also treats pike in the same way. The ideal, if you have a fish kettle, is a zander weighing 12 kg (34 lb) but the recipe can be adapted to steaks from a larger fish.

Serves 68b.u.t.tercarrot and shallot or or onion onion (see (see recipe recipe)zander, scaled and cleaneddry white wine (see (see recipe recipe)bouquet of 2 bay leaves, large sprig parsleySTOCKtr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of the zander2 onions, chopped1 carrot, choppedbouquet of 2 bay leaves, parsley and, if possible, dillsalt, pepperSAUCE125 g (4 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter2 medium onions, chopped2 tablespoons plain flour4 ripe tomatoes, skinned, chopped or or 2 teaspoons tomato concentrate 2 teaspoons tomato concentrate1 scant tablespoon tarragon vinegar34 pickled gherkins, slicedDijon mustard to taste3 tablespoons chopped parsleysalt, pepper First make the stock. Put the ingredients into a pan with water to cover generously. Simmer for 40 minutes, covered; strain, taste and add extra seasoning.

To cook the fish, b.u.t.ter a pot or fish kettle generously. Cover the base with chopped carrot and shallot or onion and lay the fish on this bed. Pour in dry white wine to come 2 cm ( inch) up the pan, then enough of the stock to bring the liquid level two-thirds of the way up the fish and the bouquet. Should you be short on stock, add other fish stock or water. Dot the top of the fish with little k.n.o.bs of b.u.t.ter.

Preheat the oven to gas 56, 190200C (375400F), unless the fish kettle is too large to go into it, in which case you will have to simmer the fish on top of the stove.

Cover the kettle or pot with foil and the lid. Give it 2535 minutes in the oven, or a slightly shorter time if you are cooking steaks of zander, or simmering the kettle on top of the stove.

The point is to catch the fish when it comes away from the bone. Baste it after 1015 minutes and check up on its progress. Remove it to a serving dish, cover with the foil or b.u.t.ter papers, and keep the dish warm while you complete the sauce.

Make a roux for the sauce while the fish cooks. Melt half the b.u.t.ter and cook the onion in it until soft and yellow. Stir in the flour and cook for a minute or so. The roux should be loose. Set it aside until the fish is cooked.

Strain the cooking liquor from the fish to a shallow pan. Taste and reduce it until you have about 750 ml (1 pt). Reheat the roux and add this liquor to make a smooth sauce. Put in the tomato and vinegar. Boil hard to concentrate the flavour. Finally add the gherkins, and mustard to taste, whisk in the rest of the b.u.t.ter and the parsley. Check for salt and pepper.

PICKEREL see see PIKE PIKE

PIKE & MUSKELLUNGE or PICKEREL Esox lucius & E. masquinongy [image]

The long-snouted, tyrannical pike is the hero of one of the best chapters in The Compleat Angler The Compleat Angler. Izaak Walton obviously enjoyed the prolonged game of wits involved in catching it. He comments on the age that some pikes live to and observes that this makes them expensive to maintain as it means 'the death of so many other fish, even those of their own kind; which has made him by some writers to be called the tyrant of the rivers, or the fresh-water wolf, by reason of his bold, greedy, devouring disposition'. He related a story that a girl in Poland had her foot bitten by a pike as she was washing the clothes: 'and I have heard the like of a woman in Killingworth pond, not far from Coventry'. Then he goes on to describe how you catch such a fish and finally how you cook it (see below). below).

Pike fishing is again popular in Britain. I read that many pike are caught in a year, some of them over 20 kg (40 lb) in weight. Yet one never sees them for sale, as one does in France. I wonder why? Do pike fishermen treasure them for their own secret enjoyment? Or would it be more accurate to a.s.sume that hundreds of these fine fish are thrown back into the water every year?

So you must excuse me if most of the following recipes come from France where pike is one of the more highly-regarded and expensive of fish. Do not be chauvinistic in the matter, for all the recipes can be applied with equal felicity to the pike of this country, or to the pike and rather larger muskellunge or pickerels as both are sometimes called of Canada and the United States. Muskellunge, and the masquinongy masquinongy of the specific name, is the Ojibwa for this large pike of North America. It means ugly fish, but French settlers took it to mean of the specific name, is the Ojibwa for this large pike of North America. It means ugly fish, but French settlers took it to mean masque allonge masque allonge (which it undoubtedly is) and that did not help the spelling which can be something of a muddle. (which it undoubtedly is) and that did not help the spelling which can be something of a muddle.

A great snag of pike is held to be the odd y-shaped bones. As long as you are forewarned they are not so much of a nuisance, and as the fish gets larger the problem gets less. Both for texture and flavour, this is one of my favourite fish. It is a good market-day in Montoire when I see its unmistakable presence on the fish stall, with the grey and yellow markings and the lengthy nose.

HOW TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE PIKE.

If you want a whole fish for baking, consider the size of your oven before you buy. The northern pike is a long fish: American and Canadian cooks would perhaps do better with a middle-cut of muskellunge being thicker, it will need a longer baking time. The other alternative is to cut the fish in steaks, but then you cannot stuff it. Sometimes cutting the head off is enough.

Because of the slimy film, scaling the fish can be messy. Put it in the bath if it is too long for any of your bowls, and pour a kettle of boiling water over it. Then turn it over and repeat the exercise. The scales should come away fairly easily.

When cleaning the fish, save the liver but not the roe, which can be indigestible. The liver can go into any stuffing, or be added, chopped, to some sauces towards the end of cooking time.

Baking, poaching and for fillets frying are all suitable for pike. Suitable sauces go from the richest and most complex to a jug of melted b.u.t.ter and a little bowl of freshly grated horseradish (see the turbot recipe, the turbot recipe, p. 435 p. 435).

IZAAK WALTON'S PIKE Here is the recipe as given by Izaak Walton in The Compleat Angler The Compleat Angler for cooking pike: 'This dish of meat is too good for any but anglers or very honest men; and I trust you will prove both, and therefore I have trusted you with the secret.' for cooking pike: 'This dish of meat is too good for any but anglers or very honest men; and I trust you will prove both, and therefore I have trusted you with the secret.'

In Walton's day, the pike was cooked on a spit. Inside the fish with the flavouring items there was 500 g (1 lb) of b.u.t.ter and no crumbs, not a stuffing at all but an interior sauce that fell out at the end to mingle with the claret the pike was basted with as it turned before the fire. Today we have to bake the fish, and there is no reason why you shouldn't reduce the b.u.t.ter to go inside the fish, and add breadcrumbs. Although sweet oranges were beginning to come in from about 1660, the orange used for cooking was the bitter or Seville orange if you do not have any in the freezer use the juice of 2 sweet oranges and 1 lemon.

First open your Pike at the gills, and if need be, cut also a little slit towards the belly. Out of these take his guts; and keep his liver, which you are to shred very small with thyme, sweet marjoram and a little winter-savoury; to these put some pickled oysters, and some anchovies, two or three; both these last whole, for the anchovies will melt, and the oysters should not; to these you must add also a pound [500 g] of sweet b.u.t.ter, which you are to mix with the herbs that are shred, and let them all be well salted (if the Pike be more than a yard [10 m] long, then you may put into these herbs more than a pound, or if he be less, then less b.u.t.ter will suffice): these, being thus mixed, with a blade or two of mace, must be put into the Pike's belly, and then his belly so sewed up as to keep all the b.u.t.ter in his belly if it be possible; if not, then as much of it as you possible can. But take not off the scales.Then you are to thrust the spit through his mouth, out at his tail. And then take four or five or six split sticks, or very thin laths, and a convenient quant.i.ty of tape or filleting; these laths are to be tied round about the Pike's body, from his head to his tail, and the tape tied somewhat thick, to prevent his breaking or falling off from the spit. Let him be roasted very leisurely, and often basted with claret wine, and anchovies and b.u.t.ter mixed together, and also with what moisture falls from him into the pan. When you have roasted him sufficiently, you are to hold under him, when you unwind or cut the tape that ties him, such a dish as you purpose to eat him out of; and let him fall into it with the sauce that is roasted in his belly; and by this means the Pike will be kept unbroken and complete.Then, to the sauce which was within, and also that sauce in the pan, you are to add a fit quant.i.ty of the best b.u.t.ter, and to squeeze the juice of three or four oranges. Lastly, you may either put into the Pike, with the oysters, two cloves of garlick, and take it whole out, when the Pike is cut off the spit; or, to give the sauce a hogo [haut gout or good flavour] let the dish into which you let the Pike fall be rubbed with it: the using or not using of this garlick is left to your discretion. or good flavour] let the dish into which you let the Pike fall be rubbed with it: the using or not using of this garlick is left to your discretion.

The garlic is a good idea. Bake the fish at first in a hot oven, gas 67, 200220C (400425 F), then after about 15 minutes, lower the heat down to gas 2, 150C (300F) until the pike is cooked. Baste every 10 minutes, using about half a bottle of claret and reduce the liquid at the end, beating in b.u.t.ter and the juice.

If you have an oven problem, cut off the pike's head. And if none of your dishes is long enough, make a nest of doubled foil.

DOS DE BROCHET AU MEURSAULT.

The best dish of pike I have ever eaten was at Saulieu in Burgundy. It was brought to the table in neat pieces, dressed with a delicious sauce and surrounded with crescents of freshwater crayfish in puff pastry, and small quenelles of pike, containing truffles. See See p. 275 p. 275.

One cannot hope to emulate Monsieur Minot, who was chef-patron of the Cote d'Or at Saulieu at the time, but I asked him for the recipe, and a.s.sure you that even a simplified version is worth attempting.

A pike weighing 1 kg (3 lb) is first skinned and filleted, then larded. For six hours, the long strips of fish lie in a bath of brandy and old Madeira, with a seasoning of salt and pepper. The fish is drained and turned in seasoned flour before being fried gently in b.u.t.ter.

When the fish is cooked here is one secret divide the fillets into 5-cm (2-inch) slices and remove the bones which pop up automatically from between the flakes as the knife goes through. Keep the fish warm, while you pour 2 gla.s.ses of Meursault into the cooking pan. Reduce it to almost nothing, then quickly stir in plenty of double cream. Correct the seasoning and boil down to the right consistency.

Up to this point, the recipe is not too difficult for any enthusiastic cook. It tastes very good without the final touches that are only within the resources of a first-cla.s.s French restaurant. Finish the sauce with a spoonful or two of hollandaise* and sauce Nantua (p. 465) to taste; garnish with crayfish tails in puff pastry, and the quenelles already mentioned.

PIKE BAKED IN THE LOIR STYLE I.

Turn to Trout and other river fish baked in the Loir style, p. 421 p. 421, and add fish stock almost to cover the pike. After the pike is done, boil down the liquid for the sauce.

PIKE IN THE LOIR STYLE II.

Serves 61 pike weighing 1 kg (3 lb)sorrel puree*new potatoesbeurre blanc*COURT BOUILLON* bottle white wine, Coteaux du Loir or other dry white wineequal quant.i.ty of water1 carrot, sliced1 onion, slicedbouquet garni5-cm (2-inch) piece of celerysalt, 8 peppercorns Put the bouillon ingredients into a pan, and simmer them for half an hour. Wine from the coteaux du Loir is not easy to come by. I'm lucky enough to live near Jasnieres, by La Chartre-sur-Loir, but if I can't get hold of a bottle (or can't afford it) I use an ordinary dry white wine.

If the pike is alive, stun and clean it without washing or scaling it (the treatment is similar to that of Trout au bleu, p. 420 p. 420). If the pike is dead, it can be cleaned and scaled with the aid of boiling water but as little as possible.

Put the fish on to the strainer of a fish kettle. Pour the tepid bouillon slowly round it, through a sieve. Bring to the boil and simmer until the pike is cooked.

Prepare the sorrel and potatoes while the court bouillon is simmering on its own. It won't hurt if they are kept warm while the pike cooks. Beurre blanc, apart from the initial reduction, must be prepared at the last minute. So, if possible, get somebody else to drain and dish up the pike and vegetables, while you concentrate on the sauce.

NOTE Remember that spinach and lemon juice can be subst.i.tuted for sorrel. Or else tart gooseberries. Remember that spinach and lemon juice can be subst.i.tuted for sorrel. Or else tart gooseberries.

QUENELLES.

A quenelle is a kind of dumpling, an aristocratic dumpling I hurry to say, a light and delicate confection with little resemblance to the doughy bullet of ma.s.s catering.

In the past, quenelles have really been a garnishing element in grand cookery, part of the delicious bits and pieces surrounding a large carp or salmon, or a dish of sole. The wonderful dishes that Careme invented in his kitchens at Brighton, for the Prince Regent, often contained quenelles; with a crayfish puree, poached oysters, poached soft roes, slices of truffle and mushroom heads, they were certainly a garnish a la regence a la regence. Later, less majestic chefs formed the quenelles round a couple of poached oysters or a piece of soft roe, and served them on their own with a fine sauce. Thanks to electricity (instead of a collection of kitchen boys) we can now make them at home, store them in the deep freeze (after they have been rolled into shape), and produce them whenever a light but tempting dish is required in the evening.

There are two basic kinds, for which recipes follow. I advise you to attempt neither unless your kitchen has electrical machinery such as a liquidizer or processor. Pike is the cla.s.sic fish to use, which is why the recipes are placed at this point in the book, but any good firm fish can be used instead sole, salmon, turbot, sea bream, John Dory, whiting or monkfish.

Both kinds of quenelle are poached in barely simmering water or fish fumet*, and served with a fine creamy sauce. The best is sauce Nantua (p. 465), or lobster sauce (p. 212); but for most of us a sauce aurore*, a white wine sauce*, mushroom sauce* or Mornay sauce* is more practical.

Quenelles de Brochet This recipe produces the more solid, cylindrical quenelles that are sold in cans and frozen packages in many French grocery shops. You will sometimes see them in high-cla.s.s food shops in this country. They are not cheaper to make at home, but you will be sure of the ingredients and of a finer flavour.

500 g (1 lb) pike or other firm fish fillets250 g (8 oz) fresh white breadcrumbs125 ml (4 fl oz) milk200 g (7 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter2 eggs plus 2 egg yolkssalt, pepper, nutmeg Puree the fish in a blender or processor. Mix the breadcrumbs with the milk and squeeze them together in your hand so that the surplus milk runs away and you are left with a thick paste. Cut up and soften the b.u.t.ter. Using the electric beater, mix the bread paste, then the softened b.u.t.ter, into the fish, until the mixture is smooth and firm. Add the eggs and yolks one by one. Mix well, season and chill.

Roll into sausage shapes on a floured board, or put through a forcing bag with a wide, plain nozzle. Most quenelles of this type are about 2 cm ( inch) in diameter, and 1012 cm (45 inches) long.

Cook them in a shallow pan of water if you like, but preferably in a well-flavoured fish fumet* made from the bones of the fish being used. The quenelles will disintegrate in boiling liquid, so the water or fumet should barely simmer. Serve with one of the sauces mentioned already, and with boiled rice if the quenelles are to be the main course.

Quenelles de Mousseline You will get the best result if the three main ingredients, and the utensils, are well chilled before you start work. Electrical equipment is what has made such laborious items popular again, after a long gap while we adjusted to the idea of kitchens without slaves.

500 g (1 lb) fillets of pike4 large egg whites600 ml (1 pt) double creamsalt, pepper, nutmeg Cut up the fillets and reduce them to a puree, with the egg whites, in a blender or processor. Push the puree through a fine sieve (electrical, again). Whip the cream until it is very thick but not stiff. Fold it into the fish until you have a thick, h.o.m.ogeneous ma.s.s. The problem with quenelles is to get the fish to absorb the cream; the egg whites help, and if you are attempting the recipe by hand, the bowl should stand in a larger bowl with plenty of ice cubes.

Season the mixture, and leave it in the refrigerator to chill for several hours. As the meal approaches, make the sauce (see above) and keep it warm: boiled rice is sometimes served as well, so cook that too. Last of all, put a wide flat pan of salted water on to boil. Shape a quenelle with two warmed tablespoons and slip it into the water which should barely simmer; the quenelle will disintegrate in boiling liquid. Add more quenelles until the pan is comfortably full. Remove them with a perforated spoon as they are cooked 8 to 10 minutes should be right, but taste the first quenelle to make sure; the inside should be a little creamy. Keep hot, and serve with the sauce poured over them. above) and keep it warm: boiled rice is sometimes served as well, so cook that too. Last of all, put a wide flat pan of salted water on to boil. Shape a quenelle with two warmed tablespoons and slip it into the water which should barely simmer; the quenelle will disintegrate in boiling liquid. Add more quenelles until the pan is comfortably full. Remove them with a perforated spoon as they are cooked 8 to 10 minutes should be right, but taste the first quenelle to make sure; the inside should be a little creamy. Keep hot, and serve with the sauce poured over them.

This light rich mousseline is also used for steaming in small and large moulds, either on its own, or as the basis of a fish terrine with layers of contrasting sh.e.l.lfish or smoked fish or strips of sole and salmon. Oil the moulds, stand them on a rack or a wad of newspapers in a roasting pan with about 2 cm (1 inch) boiling water. Poach them on top of the stove with a sheet of foil over the top, or in the oven preheated to gas 5, 190C (375F). The centre should be just firm when lightly pressed according to size and cooking this can take about 2040 minutes.

PILCHARDS see see SARDINES SARDINES PLAICE see see SOLE SOLE POLLACK, POLLOCK see see COD COD PORBEAGLE see see SHARKS SHARKS PORGY see see SEA BREAM SEA BREAM