cup kosher salt cup sugar cup coa.r.s.ely cracked black pepperOne 3-pound side of wild salmon, such as coho or king, scaled, pinbones removed cup chopped fresh dillMini Potato Pancakes (recipe follows), for servingChive Sour Cream (recipe follows), for serving 1. Combine the salt, sugar, and cracked black pepper in a mixing bowl. Transfer half the mixture to a nonreactive pan or baking dish that is large enough to hold the salmon. (If you don't have a large enough baking dish, line a rimmed baking sheet with enough plastic wrap to wrap around the salmon twice, and place half the mixture on the plastic wrap.) Combine the salt, sugar, and cracked black pepper in a mixing bowl. Transfer half the mixture to a nonreactive pan or baking dish that is large enough to hold the salmon. (If you don't have a large enough baking dish, line a rimmed baking sheet with enough plastic wrap to wrap around the salmon twice, and place half the mixture on the plastic wrap.) 2. Place the salmon, skin side down, on the salt mixture. Cover the flesh side of the salmon with the remaining salt mixture, rubbing it onto the salmon to distribute it evenly. Scatter the fresh dill on top, patting it down, and cover the salmon with plastic wrap. Place a flat-bottomed container the size of the salmon (such as another baking dish or baking sheet) on top of the salmon, and weight it with a heavy object such as an iron skillet, bricks, or a few cans. Refrigerate the salmon for 24 hours, flipping it occasionally to ensure even curing and redistributing the cure as necessary. As the salmon cures, its moisture is drawn out to produce a brine. Remove the plastic and check the salmon for firmness. If it still feels fleshy, lay it flesh side down directly in the brine. Continue to cure for up to 12 hours, or until the thickest part of the salmon is firm. Place the salmon, skin side down, on the salt mixture. Cover the flesh side of the salmon with the remaining salt mixture, rubbing it onto the salmon to distribute it evenly. Scatter the fresh dill on top, patting it down, and cover the salmon with plastic wrap. Place a flat-bottomed container the size of the salmon (such as another baking dish or baking sheet) on top of the salmon, and weight it with a heavy object such as an iron skillet, bricks, or a few cans. Refrigerate the salmon for 24 hours, flipping it occasionally to ensure even curing and redistributing the cure as necessary. As the salmon cures, its moisture is drawn out to produce a brine. Remove the plastic and check the salmon for firmness. If it still feels fleshy, lay it flesh side down directly in the brine. Continue to cure for up to 12 hours, or until the thickest part of the salmon is firm.

3. Remove the salmon from the refrigerator and pat it dry. Set it, skin side down, on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, and allow it to air-dry in the refrigerator for an hour or two. (The cured salmon can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or parchment paper and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.) Remove the salmon from the refrigerator and pat it dry. Set it, skin side down, on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, and allow it to air-dry in the refrigerator for an hour or two. (The cured salmon can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or parchment paper and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.) 4. Slice the salmon as thin as possible with a very sharp knife, and serve with the Mini Potato Pancakes and Chive Sour Cream. Alternatively, sliced salmon may be diced (skin removed beforehand) and served with traditional garnishes tartare-fashion (boiled eggs, red onion, capers, toast points, and an herb oil, chapter "The Herb Garden"). Slice the salmon as thin as possible with a very sharp knife, and serve with the Mini Potato Pancakes and Chive Sour Cream. Alternatively, sliced salmon may be diced (skin removed beforehand) and served with traditional garnishes tartare-fashion (boiled eggs, red onion, capers, toast points, and an herb oil, chapter "The Herb Garden").

6 to 8 servings

Mini Potato Pancakes These delights are incredibly delicious on their own. Serve them for breakfast or as a side dish. Just please don't let the kids add ketchup! Unless, of course, you made it yourself.

2 pounds Idaho potatoes cup minced onion2 eggs, lightly beaten2 tablespoons all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperVegetable oil for frying 1. Peel the potatoes, and grate them on the large holes of a box grater or using the large grate disc on a food processor. Using a kitchen towel, wring the grated potatoes dry in two batches. Add the potatoes and onion to a mixing bowl, and toss gently with the eggs. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Peel the potatoes, and grate them on the large holes of a box grater or using the large grate disc on a food processor. Using a kitchen towel, wring the grated potatoes dry in two batches. Add the potatoes and onion to a mixing bowl, and toss gently with the eggs. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper, and mix well.

2. Pour enough vegetable oil into a large skillet to reach a depth of 1/8 inch, and heat it over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the pancake mixture by tablespoonfuls. Gently flatten each pancake with the back of a fork, and pan-fry until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining pancake mixture, adding more oil as needed between batches. Pour enough vegetable oil into a large skillet to reach a depth of 1/8 inch, and heat it over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the pancake mixture by tablespoonfuls. Gently flatten each pancake with the back of a fork, and pan-fry until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining pancake mixture, adding more oil as needed between batches.

36 potato pancakes

Chive Sour Cream 1 cup sour cream cup minced fresh chives1 teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week.

1 cup

Baked Gulf Oysters and Shrimp with Garlic, Lemon b.u.t.ter, and Crabmeat This dish is one of the biggest sellers at my restaurant in Gulfport, Mississippi. We benefit from the bounty of incredible fresh seafood that comes in from the Gulf waters. It doesn't get much better than this.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature2 tablespoons minced garlic1 tablespoon minced shallot1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves, plus more for garnish teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 pint shucked raw oysters, drained well and patted dry on paper towels8 ounces medium shrimp, peeled and deveined4 ounces fresh crabmeat, picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage1/3 cup fine dry unseasoned breadcrumbs1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese1 tablespoon olive oilLemon wedges, for serving 1. In a small bowl, combine the b.u.t.ter, garlic, shallot, parsley, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate for 10 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the b.u.t.ter, garlic, shallot, parsley, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate for 10 minutes.

2. Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven, and preheat the broiler. Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven, and preheat the broiler.

3. Divide the oysters and shrimp among eight individual gratin dishes just large enough to hold the oysters in one layer, such as 8-ounce shallow gratin dishes. Sprinkle the crabmeat evenly over the oysters and shrimp. Divide the compound b.u.t.ter evenly among the ramekins. Transfer the dishes to a large baking sheet, and broil for about 5 minutes, or until the oysters and shrimp are beginning to firm up. Divide the oysters and shrimp among eight individual gratin dishes just large enough to hold the oysters in one layer, such as 8-ounce shallow gratin dishes. Sprinkle the crabmeat evenly over the oysters and shrimp. Divide the compound b.u.t.ter evenly among the ramekins. Transfer the dishes to a large baking sheet, and broil for about 5 minutes, or until the oysters and shrimp are beginning to firm up.

4. While the ramekins are broiling, combine the breadcrumbs, 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan, and the olive oil in a bowl. Stir to blend. While the ramekins are broiling, combine the breadcrumbs, 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan, and the olive oil in a bowl. Stir to blend.

5. Remove the ramekins from the broiler, and sprinkle the crumb mixture evenly over the seafood. Return the ramekins to the broiler and broil until the crumbs are golden brown and the oysters and shrimp are just cooked through and curled around the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the broiler, and sprinkle the crumb mixture evenly over the seafood. Return the ramekins to the broiler and broil until the crumbs are golden brown and the oysters and shrimp are just cooked through and curled around the edges, 3 to 4 minutes.

6. Remove the ramekins from the oven, garnish with the remaining Parmesan, and serve immediately, with lemon wedges alongside. Remove the ramekins from the oven, garnish with the remaining Parmesan, and serve immediately, with lemon wedges alongside.

8 appetizer servings

Littleneck Clams with Sweet Italian Sausage and Spicy Tomato Sauce Oh, baby, this simple clam and pasta dish will have you coming back for more. Feel free to use spicy Italian sausage in place of the mild, if you prefer.

8 ounces linguine or spaghettini2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling1 pound fresh sweet Italian sausage, removed from casings and crumbled cup finely chopped yellow onion3 tablespoons thinly sliced garlic2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves teaspoon salt teaspoon crushed red pepper cup dry white wine cup bottled clam juice1 can (14.5 ounces) pet.i.te diced tomatoes, with their liquid2 pounds littleneck clams, scrubbed and purged in water (see Note)2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, or to taste 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the linguine and cook until al dente according to package directions, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander, and lightly drizzle it with olive oil. Toss well to coat, and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the linguine and cook until al dente according to package directions, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander, and lightly drizzle it with olive oil. Toss well to coat, and set aside.

2. Heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, heavy saute pan or medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, salt, and crushed red pepper and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Add the wine, clam juice, and tomatoes. Stir to mix well, and simmer until the sauce has reduced a bit and thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, heavy saute pan or medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, salt, and crushed red pepper and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Add the wine, clam juice, and tomatoes. Stir to mix well, and simmer until the sauce has reduced a bit and thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the clams, cover the pan, and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened clams. Add the clams, cover the pan, and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened clams.

4. Stir in the lemon juice and the cooked pasta. Cook, tossing frequently, until the pasta is heated through, about 1 minute. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and parsley, and toss to coat well. Divide among serving bowls and top with the Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately. Stir in the lemon juice and the cooked pasta. Cook, tossing frequently, until the pasta is heated through, about 1 minute. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and parsley, and toss to coat well. Divide among serving bowls and top with the Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.

Note: Clams live buried in the sandy bottom of the ocean floor. They acc.u.mulate grit, sand, and dirt because they do not fully close their sh.e.l.ls. Live clams need to be purged of the sand and grit prior to cooking. In order to purge clams, they must be submerged in a salt.w.a.ter solution of 1/3 cup salt mixed with 1 gallon of water. The clams should sit in the solution for 30 minutes. At this time the water should be changed to ensure that there is enough oxygen so the clams do not suffocate. This process should be repeated 2 or 3 times. Alternatively, the clams can be left in a large amount of water overnight.

4 servings

Sauteed Soft-Sh.e.l.l Crabs Soft-sh.e.l.l crab season starts around mid-April on the Gulf Coast, all the way from Texas to Florida. The season lasts longer here than anywhere else because the waters of the Gulf of Mexico stay nice and warm all the way into the month of October. Soft-sh.e.l.l crabs are a delicacy because of their sweet, briny flavor and their delicate soft sh.e.l.ls, which allow us to eat the whole thing.

4 soft-sh.e.l.l crabs, cleaned (see Note)1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 cup Wondra flour3 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon chopped shallot1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon minced garlic 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Season the crabs with the salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow dish and dredge the crabs in it, shaking off any excess. Season the crabs with the salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow dish and dredge the crabs in it, shaking off any excess.

3. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy ovenproof skillet over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Carefully place the crabs in the skillet, top sh.e.l.l down (they may sputter and pop). Cook the crabs until they begin to blister, about 3 minutes. Flip them over and immediately transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake for 2 to 3 minutes. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy ovenproof skillet over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Carefully place the crabs in the skillet, top sh.e.l.l down (they may sputter and pop). Cook the crabs until they begin to blister, about 3 minutes. Flip them over and immediately transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake for 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Remove the skillet from the oven and transfer the crabs to serving plates or a platter. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, parsley, and garlic to the hot skillet and cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, or until the b.u.t.ter begins to turn brown. Remove the skillet from the oven and transfer the crabs to serving plates or a platter. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, parsley, and garlic to the hot skillet and cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, or until the b.u.t.ter begins to turn brown.

5. Serve the crabs drizzled with the brown b.u.t.ter. Serve the crabs drizzled with the brown b.u.t.ter.

Note: To clean soft-sh.e.l.l crabs, rinse them under cold running water and brush them with a small brush to remove any dirt from their outer sh.e.l.ls, if necessary. Twist off and discard the ap.r.o.n. Fold back the pointed sides of the top sh.e.l.l to expose the gills; remove the gills on both sides. Using kitchen scissors, cut across the front of the crab, about inch behind the eyes and mouth, and squeeze out the small sac hiding directly behind the mouth. The crabs are now ready to be cooked.

2 entree servings, 4 appetizer servings

Sauteed Redfish with Pecan-Shallot compound b.u.t.ter There was a time when Louisiana redfish were fished to near depletion, but thanks to strict regulations they have made a strong comeback and are thriving and plentiful in Gulf waters. This is one of the tastiest and certainly one of the most popular fish along the Gulf Coast. Redfish and pecans is a cla.s.sic Louisiana pairing, and topped with fresh Louisiana crabmeat, this dish is a knockout.

2 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperFour 6-ounce redfish fillets, scaled, skin scored, or another firm-fleshed fish, such as striped ba.s.s or red snapper8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature, cut into pieces4 teaspoons minced shallot cup chopped pecans8 ounces fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice4 pats Pecan-Shallot Compound b.u.t.ter (recipe follows)1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves 1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

2. Set a 14-inch ovenproof saute pan over high heat and add the olive oil. Set a 14-inch ovenproof saute pan over high heat and add the olive oil.

3. While the oil is heating, season the fish fillets on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper. While the oil is heating, season the fish fillets on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper.

4. When the oil is very hot, add the fillets, skin side down, and cook until crisp around the edges, about 1 minute. Turn the fillets over, and add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, and pecans to the pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the b.u.t.ter is beginning to brown around the edges and the fish is almost cooked through, about 5 minutes. When the oil is very hot, add the fillets, skin side down, and cook until crisp around the edges, about 1 minute. Turn the fillets over, and add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, and pecans to the pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the b.u.t.ter is beginning to brown around the edges and the fish is almost cooked through, about 5 minutes.

5. Remove the pan from the oven and add the crabmeat. Drizzle the lemon juice over the b.u.t.ter, and return the pan to the oven. Bake for 2 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through. Remove the pan from the oven and add the crabmeat. Drizzle the lemon juice over the b.u.t.ter, and return the pan to the oven. Bake for 2 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through.

6. Remove the pan from the oven, place 1 pat of the compound b.u.t.ter on each piece of fish, and set each piece on a serving plate. Remove the pan from the oven, place 1 pat of the compound b.u.t.ter on each piece of fish, and set each piece on a serving plate.

7. Season the pecans and crabmeat in the pan with the remaining teaspoon salt and remaining teaspoon pepper. Add the parsley, chives, and tarragon, and stir to combine. Then spoon the pecan-crabmeat relish evenly over the fillets, and serve immediately. Season the pecans and crabmeat in the pan with the remaining teaspoon salt and remaining teaspoon pepper. Add the parsley, chives, and tarragon, and stir to combine. Then spoon the pecan-crabmeat relish evenly over the fillets, and serve immediately.

4 servings

Pecan-Shallot Compound b.u.t.ter I'm going to tell you right now: you'll wish you made more of this. Go ahead, double the recipe! Whatever you don't use on the fish can be frozen and whipped out at a moment's notice. Toss it with pasta or steamed vegetables, or smear it over pan-roasted chicken.

cup pecan pieces4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces, at room temperature tablespoon minced shallot teaspoon chopped garlic teaspoon salt 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Cut out a 5-inch square of parchment paper, and set it aside. Preheat the oven to 400F. Cut out a 5-inch square of parchment paper, and set it aside.

2. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet, and bake them in the oven until lightly toasted, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Roughly chop. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet, and bake them in the oven until lightly toasted, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Roughly chop.

3. Place the cooled pecans in a small bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, garlic, and salt, and mix well with a rubber spatula. Spoon the mixture down the middle of the parchment paper, and roll it into a log, about 1 inch in diameter. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week. (The b.u.t.ter can be frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 month.) Place the cooled pecans in a small bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, garlic, and salt, and mix well with a rubber spatula. Spoon the mixture down the middle of the parchment paper, and roll it into a log, about 1 inch in diameter. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week. (The b.u.t.ter can be frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 month.) 1/3 cup

Pan-Roasted Striped Ba.s.s with Fava BeanChorizo Ragout Sauteed fresh fish, sausage, and fava beans in a creamy broth: you will enjoy every morsel. Use a spoon to get every drop.

2 cups sh.e.l.led fresh fava beans4 tablespoons olive oil8 ounces smoked chorizo, cut into -inch-thick half-moons8 ounces bulk fresh chorizo, crumbled1 cup diced onions (small dice)1 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth1 teaspoons salt cup heavy cream1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves1 teaspoon cayenne pepperFour 8-ounce striped ba.s.s fillets, skin on 1. Place a large pot of water over high heat. Add enough salt so that the water tastes salty, and bring to a rapid boil. Place a large pot of water over high heat. Add enough salt so that the water tastes salty, and bring to a rapid boil.

2. While the water heats, prepare an ice bath. Set the bowl aside. While the water heats, prepare an ice bath. Set the bowl aside.

3. Add the fava beans to the boiling water in batches, to ensure that the water doesn't lose its boil. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the fava beans, until the beans are crisp-tender or al dente; larger beans will cook in closer to 5 minutes. Using a large slotted spoon or a strainer, quickly remove the beans from the boiling water and submerge them in the ice bath. As soon as they are no longer warm, remove them from the ice bath. Remove the thin skin covering the beans and set the beans aside. Add the fava beans to the boiling water in batches, to ensure that the water doesn't lose its boil. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the fava beans, until the beans are crisp-tender or al dente; larger beans will cook in closer to 5 minutes. Using a large slotted spoon or a strainer, quickly remove the beans from the boiling water and submerge them in the ice bath. As soon as they are no longer warm, remove them from the ice bath. Remove the thin skin covering the beans and set the beans aside.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the smoked chorizo, fresh chorizo, and onions. Cook until the onions begin to soften and the sausage starts to caramelize, about 4 minutes. (If necessary, use the back of a spoon to break the fresh sausage into smaller pieces, roughly the same size as the fava beans.) Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the smoked chorizo, fresh chorizo, and onions. Cook until the onions begin to soften and the sausage starts to caramelize, about 4 minutes. (If necessary, use the back of a spoon to break the fresh sausage into smaller pieces, roughly the same size as the fava beans.) 5. Add the fava beans and the stock, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes until tender. Season with teaspoon of the salt. Add the heavy cream and continue to cook, uncovered, until the sauce has thickened slightly, about 3 minutes. Stir in the thyme, parsley, and oregano, remove from the heat, and keep warm. Add the fava beans and the stock, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes until tender. Season with teaspoon of the salt. Add the heavy cream and continue to cook, uncovered, until the sauce has thickened slightly, about 3 minutes. Stir in the thyme, parsley, and oregano, remove from the heat, and keep warm.

6. Season the striped ba.s.s fillets on both sides with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the cayenne pepper. Season the striped ba.s.s fillets on both sides with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the cayenne pepper.

7. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat, and when it is hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place the fillets, skin side down, in the pan, and cook for 4 minutes. If the fillets begin to curl, press them down gently with a spatula. Turn the fillets over and cook for another 2 minutes. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat, and when it is hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place the fillets, skin side down, in the pan, and cook for 4 minutes. If the fillets begin to curl, press them down gently with a spatula. Turn the fillets over and cook for another 2 minutes.

8. Divide the fava beanchorizo ragout among four plates, and top each one with a fish fillet. Serve immediately. Divide the fava beanchorizo ragout among four plates, and top each one with a fish fillet. Serve immediately.

4 servings

Seared Diver Scallops with Oranges, Olives, Capers, and Fennel Puree You may ask, "What is the difference between a diver scallop and a regular scallop?" Diver scallops are harvested by hand, whereas regular scallops are farmed or collected in nets that sweep the ocean floor. Because diver scallops are collected by hand, only the largest scallops are taken, generally leaving the smaller ones behind to continue to grow. The scallops are brought to market almost immediately-meaning they are at their absolute best.

16 large (U-10) diver scallops1 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper2 tablespoons olive oil cup freshly squeezed orange juice cup dry white wine4 tablespoons ( stick) b.u.t.ter, cut into small cubes1 cup orange segments (from about 2 oranges)1/3 cup pitted and sliced Cerignola olives1 tablespoon nonpareil capers, drained1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leavesFennel Puree (recipe follows) 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Season the scallops on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper. Season the scallops on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper.

3. Place a large saute pan over high heat. When it is hot, add the olive oil and half of the scallops. Cook the scallops on one side for 1 minute, until they are golden brown. Turn the scallops over and cook on the second side for 1 minute. Transfer the scallops to an ovenproof platter, and repeat with the remaining scallops. Then place the scallops in the oven and bake until they are just cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Place a large saute pan over high heat. When it is hot, add the olive oil and half of the scallops. Cook the scallops on one side for 1 minute, until they are golden brown. Turn the scallops over and cook on the second side for 1 minute. Transfer the scallops to an ovenproof platter, and repeat with the remaining scallops. Then place the scallops in the oven and bake until they are just cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, discard the olive oil remaining in the saute pan. Add the orange juice and the white wine to the hot pan, and cook over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, or until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Add a few cubes of b.u.t.ter, swirling the pan or whisking the b.u.t.ter in to form an emulsion. Then add the remaining b.u.t.ter in increments, allowing each addition to be fully incorporated before adding more. Season the sauce with the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Add the orange segments, olives, and capers, and simmer until just warmed through. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Meanwhile, discard the olive oil remaining in the saute pan. Add the orange juice and the white wine to the hot pan, and cook over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, or until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Add a few cubes of b.u.t.ter, swirling the pan or whisking the b.u.t.ter in to form an emulsion. Then add the remaining b.u.t.ter in increments, allowing each addition to be fully incorporated before adding more. Season the sauce with the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Add the orange segments, olives, and capers, and simmer until just warmed through. Do not allow the sauce to boil.

5. Remove the scallops from the oven. Divide the warm Fennel Puree between each of four plates. Place 4 scallops on top of the fennel puree, and then spoon the sauce around each plate. Serve immediately. Remove the scallops from the oven. Divide the warm Fennel Puree between each of four plates. Place 4 scallops on top of the fennel puree, and then spoon the sauce around each plate. Serve immediately.

4 servings

Fennel Puree Fennel is a natural complement to seafood, and it is a wonderful backdrop for the scallops. This puree is simple to prepare and provides a clean, light, and slightly sweet anise flavor. Pair it with roasted potatoes and glazed carrots for a true study in contrasts.

3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon olive oil2 fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced cup water3 tablespoons creme fraiche, store-bought or homemade (see chapter "The Orchard") teaspoon sea salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. Combine the b.u.t.ter and the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, add the fennel and stir to coat. Add the water, cover the pan, and cook for 20 to 22 minutes, stirring occasionally. The fennel will begin to release some of its juices and become translucent. Do not allow the fennel to brown; reduce the heat if it begins to brown before it is tender. Combine the b.u.t.ter and the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, add the fennel and stir to coat. Add the water, cover the pan, and cook for 20 to 22 minutes, stirring occasionally. The fennel will begin to release some of its juices and become translucent. Do not allow the fennel to brown; reduce the heat if it begins to brown before it is tender.

2. Transfer the fennel to a blender. Add the creme fraiche, salt, and pepper, and blend until smooth. Strain the puree through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, and discard any solids. Serve warm. (The puree can be made 1 day in advance and gently reheated.) Transfer the fennel to a blender. Add the creme fraiche, salt, and pepper, and blend until smooth. Strain the puree through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, and discard any solids. Serve warm. (The puree can be made 1 day in advance and gently reheated.) 2 cups

Out On the Range

Bacon-Wrapped Quail with Sausage, Sage, and Chestnut Dressing Quail have always been a favorite of chefs for their delicate meat and robust flavor, and they are now gaining popularity with home cooks as they become more available from small farms around the country. The key to cooking quail is to cook it at a high heat for a short period of time. Wrapping quail in bacon not only adds flavor but also guarantees that these little birds stay moist.

8 strips bacon4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter2 celery stalks, cut into small dice1 medium onion, cut into small diceSalt and freshly ground black pepper12 ounces sweet fennel sausage or mild Italian sausage, casings removed1 tablespoons chiffonade of fresh sage leaves (see Note, chapter "Nightshades")1 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves8 ounces roasted chestnuts, peeled and roughly chopped (see Note, chapter "Out On the Range")3 cups crustless bread cubes (from a hearty bread such as peasant loaf or Italian), lightly toasted cup turkey or chicken stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed to soften the bread2 tablespoons heavy cream8 semi-boneless quailAbout cup olive oil 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. b.u.t.ter a standard-size loaf pan, and set it aside. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 375F. b.u.t.ter a standard-size loaf pan, and set it aside. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Place the bacon strips on the parchment-lined baking sheet, and bake until some of the fat has been rendered and the bacon is lightly browned but still pliable, about 8 minutes. Remove from the baking sheet and set aside. Place the bacon strips on the parchment-lined baking sheet, and bake until some of the fat has been rendered and the bacon is lightly browned but still pliable, about 8 minutes. Remove from the baking sheet and set aside.

3. Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the celery and onion, and cook until the onion is almost translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking the sausage into small pieces with the spoon, until it is well browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in the sage, thyme, chestnuts, and bread cubes. Combine the stock and the heavy cream in a measuring cup, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the liquid, cup at a time, to the dressing mixture, stirring gently to combine until it is very moist. Arrange the stuffing in the prepared baking dish. Cut the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter into small pieces and scatter them over the dressing. Bake until heated through, about 20 minutes. If the top gets too brown, cover with aluminum foil. Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the celery and onion, and cook until the onion is almost translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking the sausage into small pieces with the spoon, until it is well browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in the sage, thyme, chestnuts, and bread cubes. Combine the stock and the heavy cream in a measuring cup, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the liquid, cup at a time, to the dressing mixture, stirring gently to combine until it is very moist. Arrange the stuffing in the prepared baking dish. Cut the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter into small pieces and scatter them over the dressing. Bake until heated through, about 20 minutes. If the top gets too brown, cover with aluminum foil.

4. Remove the dressing from the oven and set it aside until cooled to room temperature. Remove the dressing from the oven and set it aside until cooled to room temperature.

5. Increase the oven temperature to 400F. Increase the oven temperature to 400F.

6. Season the quail, inside and out, with salt and pepper. Spoon 3 tablespoons of the dressing into the cavity of each quail. Using a toothpick or a piece of kitchen twine, secure the legs together. Wrap 1 bacon strip around each quail, overlapping the ends and securing them with toothpicks. Place the quail on a rack on a rimmed baking dish. Brush the quail with a little olive oil, and roast in the oven for 15 to 18 minutes, until the birds are just cooked through and the juices run clear. Season the quail, inside and out, with salt and pepper. Spoon 3 tablespoons of the dressing into the cavity of each quail. Using a toothpick or a piece of kitchen twine, secure the legs together. Wrap 1 bacon strip around each quail, overlapping the ends and securing them with toothpicks. Place the quail on a rack on a rimmed baking dish. Brush the quail with a little olive oil, and roast in the oven for 15 to 18 minutes, until the birds are just cooked through and the juices run clear.

7. Remove the toothpicks and serve immediately. Remove the toothpicks and serve immediately.

Note: Chestnuts are a holiday favorite and can be found in two forms: raw in the sh.e.l.l or precooked and peeled in vacuum packed bags or in a jar. We prefer to use the jarred variety; a few of our favorite brands include Minerve, Sabaton, or Galil.

If you cannot find roasted chestnuts in your area, fresh, raw chestnuts can be roasted in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400F. Using a sharp paring knife, cut an X in the round end of the chestnut. Spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle lightly with water. Roast in the oven for 10 minutes, stir the chestnuts well, and then continue to roast for 10 minutes longer. Carefully peel the chestnuts as soon as they are cool enough to handle. (Peel off both the outer sh.e.l.l and the inner sh.e.l.l.) Use immediately or store in the refrigerator in a resealable plastic container for up to 2 days.

4 entree servings, 8 appetizer servings

Roast Chicken with Sorrel Cream Sauce Sorrel is an herb with a tart, lemony flavor that pairs well with chicken and fish. If you cannot find sorrel in your local farmer's market or grocery store, by all means plant some in your garden. Sorrel grows wild like a weed and will flourish in your herb garden or even in containers in a sunny spot in your kitchen.

For the chicken 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, at room temperature3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sorrel leavesOne 4-pound chicken, cut into quarters1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 lemon, quartered1 cup chopped onions2 cloves garlic2 bay leaves2 sprigs fresh lemon thyme For the sauce 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons minced shallot cup dry white wine1 cup heavy cream1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1 cup very thinly sliced fresh sorrel leaves1 cup slivered fresh spinach leaves2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Prepare the chicken: Combine the b.u.t.ter and sorrel in a small bowl. Rub the sorrel b.u.t.ter all over the chicken and under the skin. Season the chicken on both sides with the salt and pepper. Prepare the chicken: Combine the b.u.t.ter and sorrel in a small bowl. Rub the sorrel b.u.t.ter all over the chicken and under the skin. Season the chicken on both sides with the salt and pepper.

3. Place the chicken quarters in a roasting pan, and arrange the lemon quarters, chopped onions, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme sprigs around the chicken. Roast the chicken, uncovered, until it is cooked through and the juices run clear when pierced with a skewer, about 40 minutes. While the chicken is cooking, spoon the acc.u.mulated juices over the bird every 10 minutes or so to keep it moist. Place the chicken quarters in a roasting pan, and arrange the lemon quarters, chopped onions, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme sprigs around the chicken. Roast the chicken, uncovered, until it is cooked through and the juices run clear when pierced with a skewer, about 40 minutes. While the chicken is cooking, spoon the acc.u.mulated juices over the bird every 10 minutes or so to keep it moist.

4. Remove the chicken from the oven, and pour the pan juices into a small bowl. Cover the pan with aluminum foil, and set the chicken aside to rest for 15 minutes in a warm place. Remove the chicken from the oven, and pour the pan juices into a small bowl. Cover the pan with aluminum foil, and set the chicken aside to rest for 15 minutes in a warm place.

5. While the chicken is resting, prepare the sauce: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan, and add the shallot. Cook over low heat until the shallot is soft, 1 to 2 minutes; do not allow it to brown. Add the wine and cook until it has reduced by one fourth. Add the heavy cream and cook for 3 minutes, until thickened. Add the lemon juice, sorrel, spinach, tarragon, and reserved pan juices, and cook until the greens are wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Season with the salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. While the chicken is resting, prepare the sauce: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan, and add the shallot. Cook over low heat until the shallot is soft, 1 to 2 minutes; do not allow it to brown. Add the wine and cook until it has reduced by one fourth. Add the heavy cream and cook for 3 minutes, until thickened. Add the lemon juice, sorrel, spinach, tarragon, and reserved pan juices, and cook until the greens are wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Season with the salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.