2. Combine the milk, cream, b.u.t.termilk, salt, and pepper in a medium saucepan, and bring just to a boil. Whisk in the 1 cup cornmeal and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and has the consistency of grits, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately transfer the mixture to a heatproof bowl. Stir in the cheese, and set the bowl aside until the mixture is lukewarm, stirring often to prevent a skin from forming on the top, 10 to 15 minutes. Combine the milk, cream, b.u.t.termilk, salt, and pepper in a medium saucepan, and bring just to a boil. Whisk in the 1 cup cornmeal and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and has the consistency of grits, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately transfer the mixture to a heatproof bowl. Stir in the cheese, and set the bowl aside until the mixture is lukewarm, stirring often to prevent a skin from forming on the top, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

4. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks. Then stir the yolks, green onions, thyme, baking soda, and baking powder into the cornmeal mixture. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks. Then stir the yolks, green onions, thyme, baking soda, and baking powder into the cornmeal mixture.

5. Combine the egg whites and the sugar in a mixing bowl, and beat until stiff peaks form. Fold one-third of the whites into the cornmeal mixture to lighten it. Then gently fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate the whites. Combine the egg whites and the sugar in a mixing bowl, and beat until stiff peaks form. Fold one-third of the whites into the cornmeal mixture to lighten it. Then gently fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate the whites.

6. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish, and bake until the spoonbread is puffed and golden brown on top, and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Serve immediately. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish, and bake until the spoonbread is puffed and golden brown on top, and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

8 to 10 servings

Quinoa with Toasted Pecans The quinoa plant is closely related to Swiss chard, but it's primarily for the seeds that this ancient grainlike crop is cultivated. Not only are they a complete protein but they contain all of the essential amino acids, making them a cherished food. Quinoa has a mild, nutty flavor and a fluffy texture similar to couscous.

2 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth1 cup quinoa, rinsed cup chopped pecans1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves1 tablespoon olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Combine the stock and the quinoa in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 15 to 18 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed and the grain is tender. Combine the stock and the quinoa in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 15 to 18 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed and the grain is tender.

2. Meanwhile, toast the pecans in a small, dry skillet over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until they are golden brown and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove the nuts from the skillet and set them aside. Meanwhile, toast the pecans in a small, dry skillet over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until they are golden brown and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove the nuts from the skillet and set them aside.

3. When the quinoa is done, fluff it with a fork and transfer it to a large serving bowl. Stir in the pecans, parsley, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. When the quinoa is done, fluff it with a fork and transfer it to a large serving bowl. Stir in the pecans, parsley, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot.

3 cups, 2 to 4 servings

Homemade Pasta with Pancetta and Chanterelles Making pasta at home may seem daunting even to an experienced cook, but I a.s.sure you that it is not as difficult as it seems-and it's tons of fun, especially if you can get the kids involved. Fresh pasta is usually made with soft wheat flour. For this recipe I used Anson Mills Red Fife bread flour combined with a little cake flour to make a tender dough. Take care when cooking fresh pasta: it cooks more quickly than the dried variety.

For the pasta cup plus 2 tablespoons soft whole wheat flour, such as Red Fife flour from Anson Mills (see Note), or all-purpose flour cup plus 2 tablespoons cake flour2 large eggs2 tablespoons olive oil For the sauce 4 ounces pancetta, cut into -inch dice1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil cup minced shallot8 ounces fresh chanterelles, stems trimmed, cut into quarters1 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves cup dry white wine cup heavy cream1 teaspoon sea salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Combine the whole wheat flour and the cake flour in a bowl, and whisk together. Create a small well in the flour. Add the eggs and olive oil to the well, and gradually combine until the dough comes together. (If the dough seems a little dry, add very small amounts of water at a time.) Form into a ball with your hands. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and knead it for at least 10 minutes, until smooth. Form the dough into a ball and wrap it well with plastic wrap. Let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour or refrigerate up to overnight. (Allow to return to room temperature before rolling out.) Combine the whole wheat flour and the cake flour in a bowl, and whisk together. Create a small well in the flour. Add the eggs and olive oil to the well, and gradually combine until the dough comes together. (If the dough seems a little dry, add very small amounts of water at a time.) Form into a ball with your hands. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and knead it for at least 10 minutes, until smooth. Form the dough into a ball and wrap it well with plastic wrap. Let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour or refrigerate up to overnight. (Allow to return to room temperature before rolling out.) 2. Cut the dough into four portions. Working with one portion at a time, flatten the dough into a disk with the palm of your hand. Beginning with the thickest setting on a pasta machine, roll the pasta once. Then fold the pasta into thirds and roll it through the same setting a second time. The dough should begin to feel more elastic; if not, fold it in half again and roll it through the thickest setting one last time. Then roll the pasta through each setting, changing settings as the dough gets thinner with each roll-through, until you get to the thinnest setting. Cut the dough into four portions. Working with one portion at a time, flatten the dough into a disk with the palm of your hand. Beginning with the thickest setting on a pasta machine, roll the pasta once. Then fold the pasta into thirds and roll it through the same setting a second time. The dough should begin to feel more elastic; if not, fold it in half again and roll it through the thickest setting one last time. Then roll the pasta through each setting, changing settings as the dough gets thinner with each roll-through, until you get to the thinnest setting.

3. Using the cutting attachment, run the rolled pasta sheets through the blades to cut into noodles of the desired width. Set the pasta to dry on a lightly floured baking sheet, or hang it on a drying rack, while you make the sauce. Using the cutting attachment, run the rolled pasta sheets through the blades to cut into noodles of the desired width. Set the pasta to dry on a lightly floured baking sheet, or hang it on a drying rack, while you make the sauce.

4. Heat a 14-inch saute pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until it has rendered most of its fat and is crispy. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pancetta to a paper towellined plate, and set it aside. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and the shallots to the pan, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the shallots are slightly wilted. Add the chanterelles and the thyme, and saute, stirring, until the mushrooms are golden brown, 3 minutes. Add the white wine and cook until it has reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream, cover the pan, and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes. Season the sauce with the sea salt and black pepper. Keep it warm. Heat a 14-inch saute pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until it has rendered most of its fat and is crispy. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pancetta to a paper towellined plate, and set it aside. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and the shallots to the pan, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the shallots are slightly wilted. Add the chanterelles and the thyme, and saute, stirring, until the mushrooms are golden brown, 3 minutes. Add the white wine and cook until it has reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream, cover the pan, and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes. Season the sauce with the sea salt and black pepper. Keep it warm.

5. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the fresh pasta. As soon as the water returns to a boil and the pasta has floated to the top, drain the pasta in a colander, reserving cup of the cooking liquid. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the fresh pasta. As soon as the water returns to a boil and the pasta has floated to the top, drain the pasta in a colander, reserving cup of the cooking liquid.

6. Add the pasta and the reserved cooking liquid to the sauce, and toss well. Adjust the seasoning if necessary, and serve immediately. Add the pasta and the reserved cooking liquid to the sauce, and toss well. Adjust the seasoning if necessary, and serve immediately.

4 servings

Wild Mushroom Ragout over Creamy Polenta Wild mushrooms, with their earthy flavor and meaty texture, come into season in both spring and fall. Mushrooms with such interesting names as Hen of the Woods, chanterelles, and black trumpets all have a woodsy flavor, reminiscent of the fall harvest. To me they are a special treat, harvested by hand by foragers twice a year. When I have them, I try to make them the star of the show. Paired with creamy polenta, stone-ground grits, or even pasta, this ragout really shines.

2 tablespoons olive oil3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup diced onions1 tablespoon minced garlic2 pounds wild mushrooms, cleaned, stemmed, and quartered2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves1 cup canned pet.i.te diced tomatoes, with juices1 tablespoon tomato paste2 cups mushroom, chicken, or veal stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth1 teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leavesCreamy Polenta (recipe follows) cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives 1. Place a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, and add the olive oil and the b.u.t.ter. When the b.u.t.ter begins to foam, add the diced onions and saute until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they have released most of their liquid, about 10 minutes. Place a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, and add the olive oil and the b.u.t.ter. When the b.u.t.ter begins to foam, add the diced onions and saute until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they have released most of their liquid, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the thyme, oregano, diced tomatoes, tomato paste, and stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced and the ragout has thickened, about 20 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper, and stir in the parsley. Add the thyme, oregano, diced tomatoes, tomato paste, and stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced and the ragout has thickened, about 20 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper, and stir in the parsley.

3. Divide the Creamy Polenta among four to six shallow bowls, and top with the mushroom ragout. Garnish with the Parmesan and chives, and serve hot. Divide the Creamy Polenta among four to six shallow bowls, and top with the mushroom ragout. Garnish with the Parmesan and chives, and serve hot.

4 to 6 servings

Creamy Polenta Polenta, a northern Italian staple, is a dish made from ground cornmeal that is cooked into a porridge-like consistency. Polenta is always in my pantry at home-I love that it has so many uses. When I have leftover cooked polenta, I spread it out on a pan to cool in the fridge; the next day, I cut it into squares and fry it up. Served with a little homemade tomato sauce and some grated Parmesan cheese, it makes for a nice lunch.

4 cups whole milk2 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth4 tablespoons ( stick) b.u.t.ter2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1/8 teaspoon ground mace1 cups stone-ground polenta (coa.r.s.e cornmeal)1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese cup mascarpone or cream cheese 1. Combine the milk, chicken stock, b.u.t.ter, salt, white pepper, and mace in a large saucepan, and bring to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the polenta and stir continuously until the mixture begins to thicken. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 30 minutes, or until the polenta is creamy and tender. Combine the milk, chicken stock, b.u.t.ter, salt, white pepper, and mace in a large saucepan, and bring to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the polenta and stir continuously until the mixture begins to thicken. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 30 minutes, or until the polenta is creamy and tender.

2. Add the Parmesan and the mascarpone, and stir to blend. Remove from the heat and stir for 3 minutes to cool the polenta. Add the Parmesan and the mascarpone, and stir to blend. Remove from the heat and stir for 3 minutes to cool the polenta.

3. Serve immediately or keep warm until ready to use. (Leftover polenta is easily reheated in a small saucepan with a little water or milk to soften it.) Serve immediately or keep warm until ready to use. (Leftover polenta is easily reheated in a small saucepan with a little water or milk to soften it.) 4 to 6 servings

Smothered Shrimp and Andouille over Stone-Ground Grits When the shrimper gets your shrimp for ya, use it all. There's nothing like it. Included here is a recipe for shrimp stock so that every morsel of shrimp goodness can be enjoyed.

1 tablespoon olive oil2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter3 pounds large (2125 count) head-on shrimp, peeled and deveined (heads and sh.e.l.ls reserved for making stock)1 tablespoon sweet paprika1 teaspoons salt teaspoon cayenne pepper6 ounces andouille or other smoked sausage, cut into small dice (about 1 cup)1 cup diced onions (small dice)1 tablespoon minced garlic2 tablespoons minced shallot1 tablespoon minced green onion bottoms (white part)2 cups chopped vine-ripened tomatoes1 cup Shrimp Stock (recipe follows), chicken stock, or vegetable stock1/3 cup sour cream2 tablespoons minced green onion tops (green part)Creamy Stone-Ground Grits (chapter "From the Mill")2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves 1. Place a 12-inch saute pan over medium-high heat, and add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter to the pan. While the b.u.t.ter is melting, season the shrimp with the paprika, salt, and cayenne. Add the shrimp to the pan and sear them for 1 minutes per side. Transfer the shrimp to a plate, and set it aside. Place a 12-inch saute pan over medium-high heat, and add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter to the pan. While the b.u.t.ter is melting, season the shrimp with the paprika, salt, and cayenne. Add the shrimp to the pan and sear them for 1 minutes per side. Transfer the shrimp to a plate, and set it aside.

2. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the saute pan, and when it has melted, add the andouille. Cook, stirring often, until most of the fat has rendered and the andouille is crispy, 3 minutes. Add the onions and saute for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic, shallot, and green onion bottoms, and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook for 1 minute. Raise the heat to high, add the shrimp stock, and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the sour cream and stir to combine. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the saute pan, and when it has melted, add the andouille. Cook, stirring often, until most of the fat has rendered and the andouille is crispy, 3 minutes. Add the onions and saute for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic, shallot, and green onion bottoms, and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook for 1 minute. Raise the heat to high, add the shrimp stock, and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the sour cream and stir to combine.

3. Return the shrimp to the saute pan and fold them into the sauce. Cook until the shrimp are cooked through and hot, about 3 minutes. Stir in the green onion tops. Spoon the shrimp and sauce over the hot grits, garnish with the parsley, and serve while hot. Return the shrimp to the saute pan and fold them into the sauce. Cook until the shrimp are cooked through and hot, about 3 minutes. Stir in the green onion tops. Spoon the shrimp and sauce over the hot grits, garnish with the parsley, and serve while hot.

4 entree servings, 6 appetizer servings

Shrimp stock This is an easy way to discover the virtues of homemade stock, if you've never made a fresh stock before. You don't need a huge pot, and you only have sh.e.l.ls from 3 pounds of shrimp. This will allow you to experience the deepest, sweetest, delicate essence of shrimp. You will never throw another shrimp sh.e.l.l away.

1 to 1 pounds shrimp sh.e.l.ls and heads1 cup roughly chopped onions cup roughly chopped celery cup roughly chopped carrots2 cloves garlic, smashed with the side of a heavy knife2 bay leaves1 teaspoon salt2 teaspoons black peppercorns3 sprigs fresh thyme 1. Rinse the shrimp sh.e.l.ls and heads in a large colander under cold running water. Rinse the shrimp sh.e.l.ls and heads in a large colander under cold running water.

2. Put all of the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed stockpot, and add enough water to cover by 1 inch (about 3 quarts). Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off the foam that forms on the surface. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Put all of the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed stockpot, and add enough water to cover by 1 inch (about 3 quarts). Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off the foam that forms on the surface. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

3. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large container. Let it cool completely; then cover and refrigerate. (The stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days, or frozen in airtight containers for up to 2 months.) Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large container. Let it cool completely; then cover and refrigerate. (The stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days, or frozen in airtight containers for up to 2 months.) About 3 quarts

Creamy Stone-Ground Grits Authentic grits, full of corn flavor, are ground between stones the old-fashioned way to leave bits and pieces of the outer germ layer intact. The simple truth is that true stone-ground grits taste nothing like the run-of-the-mill kind you find on most supermarket shelves. South Carolina is famous for 'em. They take longer to cook, but they're well worth the wait.

3 cups water3 cups whole milk1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter cup stone-ground grits8 ounces white cheddar cheese, grated (about 2 cups) 1. Combine the water, milk, salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Whisk in the grits. Cook, stirring frequently, for 1 to 1 hours. Grits are ready when they are creamy and tender throughout. (It is important to stir often so that the grits do not stick to the bottom of the pan. If the grits absorb all of the water and milk before they are done, add hot water as needed to thin them out until they reach the desired consistency.) Combine the water, milk, salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Whisk in the grits. Cook, stirring frequently, for 1 to 1 hours. Grits are ready when they are creamy and tender throughout. (It is important to stir often so that the grits do not stick to the bottom of the pan. If the grits absorb all of the water and milk before they are done, add hot water as needed to thin them out until they reach the desired consistency.) 2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter and the cheese. Serve immediately. (The grits can be prepared in advance and reheated over very low heat.) Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter and the cheese. Serve immediately. (The grits can be prepared in advance and reheated over very low heat.) 4 servings

Gumbo Z'Herbes with Smoked Ham and Wild Rice Gumbo z'herbes is popular in New Orleans during the Lenten season because this hearty green stew usually does not include meat or stock. I love that dish, but I wanted to make it a little more dynamic, so I added ham to give it a smoky flavor, and instead of using white rice I use wild rice. With its nutty flavor and chewy texture, the wild rice really makes this gumbo z'herbes extraordinary.

1 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil1 small onion, chopped3 tablespoons chopped green onions, white and light green parts, plus more for garnish tablespoon chopped garlic8 ounces smoked ham, diced8 ounces fresh spinach, tough stems removed, leaves rinsed and coa.r.s.ely chopped8 ounces fresh collard greens, tough stems removed, leaves rinsed and coa.r.s.ely chopped8 ounces fresh turnip greens, tough stems removed, leaves rinsed and coa.r.s.ely chopped8 ounces cabbage, cored and coa.r.s.ely chopped3 quarts chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth1 cup wild rice2 or 3 small bay leaves1 teaspoon salt, plus more if neededCayenne pepper, to tastePinch of ground thyme1 tablespoon file powder, or more to taste (optional)Chopped fresh parsley leaves, for garnish 1. Heat the oil in a large soup pot. Add the onion, green onions, and garlic, and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the ham and cook for 2 minutes. A handful at a time, add the spinach, collards, turnip greens, and cabbage, stirring them until wilted before adding the next bunch. Then add the stock, wild rice, bay leaves, salt, cayenne, and thyme. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour. Heat the oil in a large soup pot. Add the onion, green onions, and garlic, and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the ham and cook for 2 minutes. A handful at a time, add the spinach, collards, turnip greens, and cabbage, stirring them until wilted before adding the next bunch. Then add the stock, wild rice, bay leaves, salt, cayenne, and thyme. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour.

2. Taste, and adjust the seasoning if needed-the greens should be tender and slightly spicy. The wild rice should be tender and puffed. Taste, and adjust the seasoning if needed-the greens should be tender and slightly spicy. The wild rice should be tender and puffed.

3. If you wish to thicken it, stir 1 tablespoon file powder into the simmering gumbo. Add more file, a little at a time, until thickened. Simmer for 3 minutes more. (Do not allow the gumbo to boil once you have added the file.) If you wish to thicken it, stir 1 tablespoon file powder into the simmering gumbo. Add more file, a little at a time, until thickened. Simmer for 3 minutes more. (Do not allow the gumbo to boil once you have added the file.) 4. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and green onions. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and green onions.

6 to 8 servings

Fresh Off the Dock

Marinated Blue Crab Claws Save the claws the next time you have a crab boil at your house, or purchase them already peeled from a local seafood market. However you go about getting your crab claws, this simple, toss-together dish makes for a festive party hors d'oeuvre. Make it a day or two ahead of time and pull it out of the fridge just in time for the party. Now that's what I'm talking about!

cup extra-virgin olive oil2 tablespoons red wine vinegar1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice cup chopped green onions, white and green parts2 tablespoons minced shallot2 tablespoons minced celery2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves2 teaspoons minced garlic2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves cup thinly sliced pimento-stuffed green olives1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon hot pepper sauce1 pound cooked blue crab claws, outer sh.e.l.ls removed 1. Combine all the ingredients except the crab claws in a large nonreactive bowl, and whisk to mix well. Add the crab claws and toss to coat. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or as long as overnight. Combine all the ingredients except the crab claws in a large nonreactive bowl, and whisk to mix well. Add the crab claws and toss to coat. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or as long as overnight.

2. Serve chilled or at cool room temperature in individual serving bowls or allow guests to serve themselves from a large bowl. Serve chilled or at cool room temperature in individual serving bowls or allow guests to serve themselves from a large bowl.

6 to 8 appetizer servings

Smoked Trout "Souffle"

This is a cold souffle-really more of a mousse that is set with gelatin, resembling a hot souffle in appearance only. I love to serve this at c.o.c.ktail parties, with crisp toasts or crackers for dipping. This creamy concoction tastes delightfully light and is sure to make a big splash.

2 cups cold heavy cream2 packets unflavored powdered gelatin1 pound smoked trout, skin removed and discarded, flesh flaked2 tablespoons minced shallot2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves1 tablespoon minced chives1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. Pour 1 cup of the heavy cream into a medium bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin over the cream, and stir to incorporate. Let it sit for 5 minutes to soften. Pour 1 cup of the heavy cream into a medium bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin over the cream, and stir to incorporate. Let it sit for 5 minutes to soften.

2. Meanwhile, pour the remaining 1 cup cream into a saucepan and bring it to a boil. Meanwhile, pour the remaining 1 cup cream into a saucepan and bring it to a boil.

3. Pour the hot cream over the cold cream, and whisk to combine. Pour the hot cream over the cold cream, and whisk to combine.

4. Combine the trout, shallot, parsley, chives, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor, and process until smooth, about 20 seconds. While the machine is running, gradually add the cream mixture, processing until well combined. Combine the trout, shallot, parsley, chives, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor, and process until smooth, about 20 seconds. While the machine is running, gradually add the cream mixture, processing until well combined.

5. Cut a piece of parchment paper to measure 4 12 inches. Wrap the parchment around the outside of a 12-ounce ramekin to form an upright collar, and tape it in place. Spoon the mousse into the ramekin, smooth the top with a spatula, and wrap it in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, and up to 24. Cut a piece of parchment paper to measure 4 12 inches. Wrap the parchment around the outside of a 12-ounce ramekin to form an upright collar, and tape it in place. Spoon the mousse into the ramekin, smooth the top with a spatula, and wrap it in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, and up to 24.

6. Serve the "souffle" with toast points, croutons, or crackers. Serve the "souffle" with toast points, croutons, or crackers.

8 to 10 hors d'oeuvre servings

Maryland Crab Toast Make sure you use the freshest crabmeat available for this simple treat. And, hey, even if you buy it already picked, take the time to go through the crabmeat again to make sure there aren't any remaining bits of sh.e.l.l or cartilage.

12 slices ciabatta, sourdough, or other artisa.n.a.l bread1 pint fresh lump crabmeat cup finely chopped celery cup finely chopped fresh chives2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard2 tablespoons mayonnaise, store-bought or homemade (see chapter "Thistles, Stalks, and Pods")Juice of 1 lemonSalt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste18 ounces Gruyere cheese, sliced 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Arrange the bread in a single layer on a baking sheet, and set it aside. Arrange the bread in a single layer on a baking sheet, and set it aside.

3. In a medium bowl, combine the crabmeat, celery, chives, mustard, mayonnaise, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Spread approximately 3 tablespoons of the crabmeat mixture evenly over each piece of bread. Arrange the sliced Gruyere over the crabmeat mixture. Bake until the cheese has melted, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately. In a medium bowl, combine the crabmeat, celery, chives, mustard, mayonnaise, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Spread approximately 3 tablespoons of the crabmeat mixture evenly over each piece of bread. Arrange the sliced Gruyere over the crabmeat mixture. Bake until the cheese has melted, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

12 servings

New England Lobster Rolls There's nothing like going directly to the dock to pick up fresh lobsters. All along the New England coast, there are clam shacks and seafood joints that specialize in fresh clams, lobsters, and fish. Most of these places serve lobster rolls. Nothing fancy: just fresh lobster, a little mayo, and some herbs, all served on a soft hot dog bun. Got to love it!

4 hot dog buns4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted1/3 cup mayonnaise, homemade (see chapter "Thistles, Stalks, and Pods") or good-quality store-bought2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice teaspoon salt cup finely chopped celery1 tablespoon minced shallot1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon leaves1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives1 pound freshly cooked lobster tail and claw meat, cubed (from two 1-pound lobsters)Potato chips, for serving 1. Preheat the grill or broiler. Preheat the grill or broiler.

2. Using a pastry brush, spread the inside and outside of each bun with the melted b.u.t.ter. Grill or broil the buns quickly to warm them through. Set the buns aside. Using a pastry brush, spread the inside and outside of each bun with the melted b.u.t.ter. Grill or broil the buns quickly to warm them through. Set the buns aside.

3. Combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and salt in a bowl, and mix well. Fold in the celery, shallot, tarragon, parsley, and chives. Then fold in the lobster meat. Place 1 bun on each plate, and divide the lobster salad evenly among the buns. Combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and salt in a bowl, and mix well. Fold in the celery, shallot, tarragon, parsley, and chives. Then fold in the lobster meat. Place 1 bun on each plate, and divide the lobster salad evenly among the buns.

4. Serve immediately, with potato chips alongside. Serve immediately, with potato chips alongside.

4 servings

Spanish-Style Braised Squid To me squid is an underrated ingredient. It really lends itself to just about any flavoring and cooking method. Whether it is grilled, sauteed, fried, or braised, it can be sweet, tender, and truly delicious. I love to serve this dish as a part of a small plate menu.

cup olive oil cup sliced onions3 tablespoons sliced garlic cup dry white wine, such as Albarino1 pound squid, tentacles removed and reserved, bodies cut into thin rings3 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves1 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice1 teaspoon nonpareil capers, drained teaspoon saltGenerous teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon hot pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika)Warm crusty bread, for serving 1. Combine the olive oil and onions in a large saute pan over medium heat, and cook until the onions are beginning to caramelize, 3 to 4 minutes. Then add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes longer. Add the white wine and reduce for 2 minutes. Add the squid (tentacles and rings), parsley, oregano, lemon juice, capers, salt, pepper, and pimenton. Cook until the squid is tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Combine the olive oil and onions in a large saute pan over medium heat, and cook until the onions are beginning to caramelize, 3 to 4 minutes. Then add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes longer. Add the white wine and reduce for 2 minutes. Add the squid (tentacles and rings), parsley, oregano, lemon juice, capers, salt, pepper, and pimenton. Cook until the squid is tender, 5 to 6 minutes.

2. Serve with the crusty bread. Serve with the crusty bread.

4 to 6 tapas-size servings

Simple Oyster "Stew"

Though Louisiana folks refer to this creamy soup as a stew, don't let the name fool you. This simple, brothy delicacy is the perfect way to showcase plump, salty oysters. Use the best quality milk and b.u.t.ter you can find, and make sure you stir in any oyster liquor that arrives with the shucked oysters. Serve with oyster crackers or hot crusty bread, and you're there!

5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup finely chopped celery3 tablespoons all-purpose flour5 cups whole milk1 cup heavy cream teaspoon salt, plus more if needed teaspoon freshly ground white pepper teaspoon cayenne pepper cup finely sliced green onions (green tops only)1 garlic clove, smashed2 pints shucked oysters, with any oyster liquor4 ounces fresh baby spinach leaves, rinsed and spun dry (optional) 1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large soup pot over medium-low heat, and add the celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the celery is very soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes; do not allow the flour to brown. Working quickly, whisk in the milk and cream, and raise the heat to medium. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid thickens a bit and comes to a gentle simmer. Add teaspoon of the salt and the white pepper, cayenne, green onions, and garlic clove. Continue to cook until the soup thickens a bit more and the flavors come together, 5 to 10 minutes. Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large soup pot over medium-low heat, and add the celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the celery is very soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes; do not allow the flour to brown. Working quickly, whisk in the milk and cream, and raise the heat to medium. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid thickens a bit and comes to a gentle simmer. Add teaspoon of the salt and the white pepper, cayenne, green onions, and garlic clove. Continue to cook until the soup thickens a bit more and the flavors come together, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Remove and discard the smashed garlic clove. Stir in the oysters, along with any oyster liquor, and cook, stirring frequently, until the edges of the oysters are beginning to curl, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach, if using, and cook until it has wilted and the oysters are just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste, and add the remaining teaspoon salt (or more if needed). Serve immediately in wide shallow bowls, each bowl garnished with tablespoon of the remaining b.u.t.ter. Remove and discard the smashed garlic clove. Stir in the oysters, along with any oyster liquor, and cook, stirring frequently, until the edges of the oysters are beginning to curl, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach, if using, and cook until it has wilted and the oysters are just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste, and add the remaining teaspoon salt (or more if needed). Serve immediately in wide shallow bowls, each bowl garnished with tablespoon of the remaining b.u.t.ter.

2 quarts, 6 servings

Dill and Black Pepper Gravlax with Mini Potato panCakes and Chive Sour Cream Preserve this ocean treasure by burying it in herbs and spices. Take a beautiful side of wild salmon, cure it for a day and a half, slice it thin, and indulge. This is an intensely flavored dish that melts in your mouth. Are you ready? Serve it with potato cakes and chive sour cream to enrich the experience.