6. Transfer the roast chicken to serving plates, and spoon the sauce over all. Serve immediately. Transfer the roast chicken to serving plates, and spoon the sauce over all. Serve immediately.

4 servings

Fried Chicken and b.u.t.termilk Waffles with Black Pepper Maple Syrup and Whipped Vanilla b.u.t.ter This may seem an unlikely combination, but trust me, for those moments when you're not sure if it's dinner or breakfast that you want, this satisfies completely. Waffles stand in here in place of biscuits-and soak up all the b.u.t.tery, syrupy goodness that is drizzled over the crisp-fried chicken. This recipe is based on a killer version of chicken and waffles that is served at Emeril's Restaurant in New Orleans.

1 cups well-shaken b.u.t.termilk cup Crystal hot sauce or other Louisiana red hot sauce1 tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon sweet paprika3 cloves garlic, smashedOne 3-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces2 cups all-purpose flour3 to 4 cups vegetable oil, for fryingb.u.t.termilk Waffles (recipe follows)Black Pepper Maple Syrup (chapter "Out On the Range")Whipped Vanilla b.u.t.ter (recipe follows) 1. In a small bowl, whisk together the b.u.t.termilk, hot sauce, sugar, the 1 tablespoon salt, and the paprika. Add the garlic. Transfer this mixture to a gallon-size resealable plastic food storage bag. Add the chicken pieces to the bag, seal, and refrigerate. Allow the chicken to marinate overnight, turning the bag occasionally to ensure that the chicken is evenly marinated. In a small bowl, whisk together the b.u.t.termilk, hot sauce, sugar, the 1 tablespoon salt, and the paprika. Add the garlic. Transfer this mixture to a gallon-size resealable plastic food storage bag. Add the chicken pieces to the bag, seal, and refrigerate. Allow the chicken to marinate overnight, turning the bag occasionally to ensure that the chicken is evenly marinated.

2. Place a wire rack on a baking sheet, and set it aside. In a medium-size bowl, combine the flour with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Place a wire rack on a baking sheet, and set it aside. In a medium-size bowl, combine the flour with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt.

3. Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade, allowing the excess to drain off, and then dredge them in the flour. Set the coated pieces on the wire rack. Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade, allowing the excess to drain off, and then dredge them in the flour. Set the coated pieces on the wire rack.

4. Pour oil to a depth of 1 inch in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Heat the oil over high heat to 350F. (Use a deep-fry/candy thermometer for accuracy.) Pour oil to a depth of 1 inch in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Heat the oil over high heat to 350F. (Use a deep-fry/candy thermometer for accuracy.) 5. Fry the chicken, in batches, until golden brown and cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes per side; the chicken should register 165F on an instant-read thermometer. As you are cooking, be mindful of the temperature of your oil and regulate the heat as necessary. You do not want the temperature of the oil to drop below 325 or to go above 350F. As the pieces are cooked, transfer them to a paper towellined platter. Fry the chicken, in batches, until golden brown and cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes per side; the chicken should register 165F on an instant-read thermometer. As you are cooking, be mindful of the temperature of your oil and regulate the heat as necessary. You do not want the temperature of the oil to drop below 325 or to go above 350F. As the pieces are cooked, transfer them to a paper towellined platter.

6. Serve the chicken hot, with the b.u.t.termilk Waffles, Black Pepper Maple Syrup, and Whipped Vanilla b.u.t.ter. Serve the chicken hot, with the b.u.t.termilk Waffles, Black Pepper Maple Syrup, and Whipped Vanilla b.u.t.ter.

4 to 6 servings

b.u.t.termilk Waffles 1 cups cake flour3 tablespoons sugar2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt2 cups well-shaken b.u.t.termilk2 eggs teaspoon vanilla extract8 tablespoons (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, melted 1. Combine the flour, sugar, cornmeal, baking soda, and salt in a medium mixing bowl. In a second medium bowl, whisk together the b.u.t.termilk, eggs, and vanilla. Add the wet ingredients to the dry, and mix until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the melted b.u.t.ter. (The batter can be prepared ahead and refrigerated overnight.) Combine the flour, sugar, cornmeal, baking soda, and salt in a medium mixing bowl. In a second medium bowl, whisk together the b.u.t.termilk, eggs, and vanilla. Add the wet ingredients to the dry, and mix until thoroughly combined. Whisk in the melted b.u.t.ter. (The batter can be prepared ahead and refrigerated overnight.) 2. Heat an oiled waffle iron. Pour the appropriate amount of batter (according to the size of your waffle iron) onto the hot griddle, and cook until crisped and golden brown to your liking. Transfer the waffle to a serving plate and repeat with the remaining batter. Heat an oiled waffle iron. Pour the appropriate amount of batter (according to the size of your waffle iron) onto the hot griddle, and cook until crisped and golden brown to your liking. Transfer the waffle to a serving plate and repeat with the remaining batter.

6 servings

Whipped Vanilla b.u.t.ter One 1-inch piece of vanilla bean12 tablespoons (1 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature1/8 teaspoon salt 1. Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and sc.r.a.pe the seeds into a small bowl. Reserve the sc.r.a.ped pod for the Black Pepper Maple Syrup. Add the b.u.t.ter and salt to the bowl, and whip with a handheld electric mixer until light and fluffy. Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and sc.r.a.pe the seeds into a small bowl. Reserve the sc.r.a.ped pod for the Black Pepper Maple Syrup. Add the b.u.t.ter and salt to the bowl, and whip with a handheld electric mixer until light and fluffy.

2. Transfer the b.u.t.ter to a small container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use. Transfer the b.u.t.ter to a small container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

Generous 12 tablespoons

Black Pepper Maple Syrup 1 cups grade-A dark amber maple syrup teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons Crystal hot sauceOne 1-inch sc.r.a.ped vanilla bean pod (from making Whipped Vanilla b.u.t.ter) Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and allow the flavors to steep until ready to serve. Remove the vanilla bean before serving if desired.

About 1 cups

Emeril's Day Spring Farm Heritage Turkey with Herbed Gravy I had the opportunity to visit Day Spring Farm in Middleburg, Virginia, where farmers Sean and Jessie Baker and their family raise heritage turkeys, Jersey cows, Scottish Highland cattle, Romney sheep, and a variety of heritage chickens, among other things! Heritage turkeys are old breeds that were raised on small farms across the United States and in Europe hundreds of years ago. They were prized for their meat, and some for their plumage. These extraordinary characters live freely on the farm, and are allowed to fly and run around; therefore, they are quite a bit leaner than a commercially grown turkey. In fact, they probably have more in common with their wild cousins. The meat is richer and darker, with a robust turkey flavor. The key to cooking a heritage turkey is keeping it moist. I do this in two ways: First I like to inject the meat with a flavorful solution-sort of a quick brine. Second, I rub b.u.t.ter under the skin, basically making the turkey self-basting. If you have the opportunity to try one of these turkeys, I highly recommend it.

One 10- to 12-pound heritage turkey For the solution cup canned low-sodium chicken broth cup dry white wine cup olive oil2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice1 tablespoon soy sauce1 teaspoon cayenne pepper1 teaspoon salt For the turkey 3 teaspoons salt1 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper1 medium onion, roughly chopped1 carrot, roughly chopped1 celery stalk, roughly chopped5 sprigs fresh thyme, or teaspoon dried thyme1 bay leaf1 lemon, quartered4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves2 teaspoons minced garlicHerbed Gravy (chapter "Out On the Range") 1. Place the turkey in the kitchen sink and remove its wrapping. Using your hands, remove the neck, gizzards, heart, and liver-usually found in a small paper or plastic bag inside the cavity. (Reserve for making Turkey Stock, chapter "Out On the Range".) Rinse the turkey inside and out under cold running water. Pat it dry inside and out with paper towels. Place the turkey in the kitchen sink and remove its wrapping. Using your hands, remove the neck, gizzards, heart, and liver-usually found in a small paper or plastic bag inside the cavity. (Reserve for making Turkey Stock, chapter "Out On the Range".) Rinse the turkey inside and out under cold running water. Pat it dry inside and out with paper towels.

2. Combine all the ingredients for the solution in a small bowl. Using a turkey injector, inject the solution into the meat of the breast, thigh, back, wings, and legs (see Note). You will have to refill the injector several times. It is best to inject small amounts of solution at regular intervals all over the turkey. Combine all the ingredients for the solution in a small bowl. Using a turkey injector, inject the solution into the meat of the breast, thigh, back, wings, and legs (see Note). You will have to refill the injector several times. It is best to inject small amounts of solution at regular intervals all over the turkey.

3. Season the inside of the turkey with teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the black pepper. Stuff the cavity with the onion, carrot, celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and lemon quarters. Season the inside of the turkey with teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the black pepper. Stuff the cavity with the onion, carrot, celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and lemon quarters.

4. Using kitchen twine, tie the ends of the turkey's legs together so that it looks as if it is trying to cross its legs. Season the outside of the turkey all over with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the pepper. Using kitchen twine, tie the ends of the turkey's legs together so that it looks as if it is trying to cross its legs. Season the outside of the turkey all over with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the pepper.

5. Combine the b.u.t.ter, parsley, thyme, sage, rosemary, garlic, remaining 1 teaspoons salt, and remaining teaspoon black pepper in a bowl, and mix until smooth. Loosen the skin around the turkey breast with your fingers, and carefully insert the b.u.t.ter mixture between the meat and the skin. Rub any leftover b.u.t.ter mixture evenly over the outside of the entire turkey. Fit a roasting rack inside a roasting pan. Place the turkey on the rack, and cover the roasting pan with oiled parchment paper. Refrigerate the turkey for 6 to 8 hours to allow the solution to penetrate throughout the meat. Combine the b.u.t.ter, parsley, thyme, sage, rosemary, garlic, remaining 1 teaspoons salt, and remaining teaspoon black pepper in a bowl, and mix until smooth. Loosen the skin around the turkey breast with your fingers, and carefully insert the b.u.t.ter mixture between the meat and the skin. Rub any leftover b.u.t.ter mixture evenly over the outside of the entire turkey. Fit a roasting rack inside a roasting pan. Place the turkey on the rack, and cover the roasting pan with oiled parchment paper. Refrigerate the turkey for 6 to 8 hours to allow the solution to penetrate throughout the meat.

6. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 450F. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 450F.

7. Transfer the turkey to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Transfer the turkey to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

8. Reduce the oven temperature to 350F and continue to cook for 1 hour, basting occasionally with the pan drippings. If the turkey begins to look too browned, cover the top loosely with aluminum foil until it is done. When the turkey is cooked, the juices will run clear when you insert the tip of a knife at the joint of the leg and thigh. The internal temperature of a heritage turkey should be slightly lower than that of a commercial turkey, from 145 to 150F. Reduce the oven temperature to 350F and continue to cook for 1 hour, basting occasionally with the pan drippings. If the turkey begins to look too browned, cover the top loosely with aluminum foil until it is done. When the turkey is cooked, the juices will run clear when you insert the tip of a knife at the joint of the leg and thigh. The internal temperature of a heritage turkey should be slightly lower than that of a commercial turkey, from 145 to 150F.

9. Carefully remove the roasting pan from the oven and cover the turkey loosely with aluminum foil. Let the turkey rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Save the drippings and pan juices to make the gravy. Carefully remove the roasting pan from the oven and cover the turkey loosely with aluminum foil. Let the turkey rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Save the drippings and pan juices to make the gravy.

10. Transfer the turkey to a carving board, and carve. Serve with the Herbed Gravy. Transfer the turkey to a carving board, and carve. Serve with the Herbed Gravy.

Note: Turkey injectors are available at most kitchen supply stores.

6 servings

Herbed Gravy 8 tablespoons (1 stick) b.u.t.ter cup all-purpose flour4 cups Turkey Stock or chicken stock (recipe follows)1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon cider vinegar (optional) 1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a heavy 4-quart pot, and stir in the flour. Cook the mixture over moderate heat, whisking as needed, until lightly browned, 5 minutes. Add the stock in a stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, stir in any turkey juices acc.u.mulated on the platter, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add all the herbs and the salt and pepper. Add the cider vinegar, if desired, and mix well. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a heavy 4-quart pot, and stir in the flour. Cook the mixture over moderate heat, whisking as needed, until lightly browned, 5 minutes. Add the stock in a stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, stir in any turkey juices acc.u.mulated on the platter, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add all the herbs and the salt and pepper. Add the cider vinegar, if desired, and mix well.

2. Remove from the heat and serve immediately, or keep warm until ready to serve. Remove from the heat and serve immediately, or keep warm until ready to serve.

About 4 cups

Turkey Stock Turkey neck, heart, and gizzard1 large carrot, roughly chopped1 onion, roughly chopped1 large celery stalk, roughly chopped1 head garlic, cut in half1 small bay leaf1 sprig fresh thyme1 sprig fresh rosemary4 sprigs fresh parsley4 cups chicken stock, canned low-sodium chicken broth, or water4 cups water 1. Combine all the ingredients in a large heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the stock is reduced to 5 cups, about 1 hour. Combine all the ingredients in a large heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the stock is reduced to 5 cups, about 1 hour.

2. Strain the stock into a clean pot or large measuring cup, and set it aside. Strain the stock into a clean pot or large measuring cup, and set it aside.

5 cups

Pan-Roasted Duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s with Apple Cider Reduction This recipe was developed for domesticated duck. But, hey, if you enjoy the deep flavor of wild duck and have a hunter buddy, you could adapt it by searing the b.r.e.a.s.t.s very quickly in the pan over high heat (taking care not to overcook them since wild ducks are typically very lean). You would also need more b.r.e.a.s.t.s for this recipe because wild ducks are so much smaller. We love this dish served with the Braised Apples, Roasted Acorn Squash, and Fresh Thyme on chapter "The Orchard".

2 cups apple cider or pressed apple juice2 cups beef stock or canned low-sodium beef broth1 cinnamon stick (3 inches long)4 whole cloves4 black peppercorns2/3 cup sliced shallotTwo 8-ounce duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s, skin scored a few times on the diagonal teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon olive oil 1. Combine the apple cider, beef stock, cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns, and shallot in a 2-quart saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat so that the liquid just simmers, and cook until the mixture, including the seasoning, has reduced to 1 cup, 35 to 40 minutes. (Have a liquid measure nearby so that you can check the volume as necessary.) Let the sauce cool for a few minutes; then strain it through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding the shallot and spices. Set it aside. Combine the apple cider, beef stock, cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns, and shallot in a 2-quart saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat so that the liquid just simmers, and cook until the mixture, including the seasoning, has reduced to 1 cup, 35 to 40 minutes. (Have a liquid measure nearby so that you can check the volume as necessary.) Let the sauce cool for a few minutes; then strain it through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding the shallot and spices. Set it aside.

2. Season the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s on both sides with the salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the b.r.e.a.s.t.s, skin side down, and cook for 2 minutes. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 7 minutes longer, or until the skin is golden brown and crisp and most of the fat has been rendered. Carefully drain off most of the fat. Turn the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s, skin side up, raise the heat to medium, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s to a cutting board, and allow them to rest for 5 minutes. Season the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s on both sides with the salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the b.r.e.a.s.t.s, skin side down, and cook for 2 minutes. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 7 minutes longer, or until the skin is golden brown and crisp and most of the fat has been rendered. Carefully drain off most of the fat. Turn the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s, skin side up, raise the heat to medium, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s to a cutting board, and allow them to rest for 5 minutes.

3. Drain and discard any remaining fat from the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Add the sauce and cook until it has reduced by half or until it is syrupy, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Drain and discard any remaining fat from the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Add the sauce and cook until it has reduced by half or until it is syrupy, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.

4. Slice the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s diagonally into -inch-thick slices. Serve with the sauce spooned over the top. Slice the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s diagonally into -inch-thick slices. Serve with the sauce spooned over the top.

2 to 3 servings

Honey-Brined Pork Chops with Nectarine Chutney These brined pork chops are able to stand alone, but if you've already made the chutney (when the nectarines were in season and the getting was good), just grab the jar off the shelf and serve it alongside. Another way to make things simpler: Make the brine for the chops the night before. Then in the morning, before you go to work, just add them to the brine and they'll be ready for cookin' when you get home.

8 cups water cup plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt2 cups honey bunch fresh thyme, about 6 sprigs1 tablespoon plus 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon ground cloves4 bone-in pork chops (about 12 ounces each)2 tablespoons olive oil teaspoon saltNectarine Chutney (recipe follows), for serving (optional) 1. Pour the water, kosher salt, and honey into a large pot and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and honey. Remove from the heat and add the thyme, the 1 tablespoon pepper, and the cloves. Set aside to cool. Then transfer the brine to the refrigerator and chill thoroughly, about 2 hours. Pour the water, kosher salt, and honey into a large pot and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and honey. Remove from the heat and add the thyme, the 1 tablespoon pepper, and the cloves. Set aside to cool. Then transfer the brine to the refrigerator and chill thoroughly, about 2 hours.

2. Submerge the pork chops in the cold brining liquid and marinate for 6 hours, refrigerated. Submerge the pork chops in the cold brining liquid and marinate for 6 hours, refrigerated.

3. Remove the pork chops from the brine and pat them dry with paper towels. Discard the brine. Remove the pork chops from the brine and pat them dry with paper towels. Discard the brine.

4. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

5. Heat the oil in a large grill pan or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Season the chops with the teaspoon salt and the remaining 1/8 teaspoon black pepper. Cook the chops, in batches if necessary, until nicely browned on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer them to a roasting pan or baking sheet, and roast until they reach an internal temperature of 145F, 10 to 12 minutes. Allow the chops to rest for 5 minutes before serving. Heat the oil in a large grill pan or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Season the chops with the teaspoon salt and the remaining 1/8 teaspoon black pepper. Cook the chops, in batches if necessary, until nicely browned on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer them to a roasting pan or baking sheet, and roast until they reach an internal temperature of 145F, 10 to 12 minutes. Allow the chops to rest for 5 minutes before serving.

6. Serve each pork chop with a spoonful of the nectarine chutney. Serve each pork chop with a spoonful of the nectarine chutney.

4 servings

Nectarine Chutney This chutney is tangy, with a slight sweet note from the nectarines. You could subst.i.tute peaches, apricots, or plums in this recipe just as easily. We know it's delicious with the pork, but enjoy this chutney as a condiment on a cheese plate as well.

3 pounds nectarines, pitted and roughly chopped2 cups cider vinegar1 cups thinly sliced red onions1 cups packed light brown sugar1 cup dried cherries2 cloves garlic, cut in half2 teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon cayenne pepper teaspoon ground cloves teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground cinnamon 1. Combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a slow simmer and cook the chutney for 1 hour, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a slow simmer and cook the chutney for 1 hour, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed.

2. Carefully pour the hot chutney into three sterilized 8-ounce jars, and seal immediately. The chutney should be used within 6 months. Carefully pour the hot chutney into three sterilized 8-ounce jars, and seal immediately. The chutney should be used within 6 months.

About 3 cups

Pork Loin with a Walnut and Herbed Farmer's Cheese Stuffing and Pear-Parsnip Puree Pork loin roasts are one of my favorite things to cook for family gatherings and impromptu parties. It is a versatile cut of meat that works well for just about any occasion. Stuffing a pork loin not only makes it special but also keeps the roast moist while it is cooking. This stuffing is simple to put together, and can be made ahead of time and kept in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it.

cup golden raisins (sultanas) cup walnut liqueur8 ounces farmer's cheese or other fresh soft cheese (such as quark, queso fresco, or Boursin)1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 cup chopped toasted walnuts2 teaspoons saltOne 4-pound boneless pork loin1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup dry unseasoned breadcrumbs 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Combine the raisins and walnut liqueur in a small bowl, and set aside until the raisins are plump, 10 to 15 minutes. Combine the raisins and walnut liqueur in a small bowl, and set aside until the raisins are plump, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Place a small saute pan over medium-high heat, add the raisins (and any remaining liqueur), and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until all the liquid has evaporated from the pan. Transfer the raisins to a bowl. Add the cheese, rosemary, thyme, parsley, walnuts, and teaspoon of the salt, and mix well. If the mixture is too soft, place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes to firm up. Place a small saute pan over medium-high heat, add the raisins (and any remaining liqueur), and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until all the liquid has evaporated from the pan. Transfer the raisins to a bowl. Add the cheese, rosemary, thyme, parsley, walnuts, and teaspoon of the salt, and mix well. If the mixture is too soft, place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes to firm up.

4. To prepare the pork loin for stuffing, first trim off any remaining tough silverskin. Then place the loin on a cutting board, and using a sharp boning knife, slice vertically down the center of the loin without slicing all the way through; leave about an inch of meat to act as a hinge. As you slice the pork, open it with your fingers to form a channel in which to place the stuffing. Pipe or spoon the stuffing into the channel down the center of the loin. Cut eight 18-inch pieces of kitchen twine, and shimmy the twine under the pork at regular intervals. Bring the sides of the pork loin together and tie the roast, enclosing the stuffing. Season the pork loin all over with the remaining 1 teaspoons salt and the pepper. Place the pork in a roasting pan fitted with a rack. To prepare the pork loin for stuffing, first trim off any remaining tough silverskin. Then place the loin on a cutting board, and using a sharp boning knife, slice vertically down the center of the loin without slicing all the way through; leave about an inch of meat to act as a hinge. As you slice the pork, open it with your fingers to form a channel in which to place the stuffing. Pipe or spoon the stuffing into the channel down the center of the loin. Cut eight 18-inch pieces of kitchen twine, and shimmy the twine under the pork at regular intervals. Bring the sides of the pork loin together and tie the roast, enclosing the stuffing. Season the pork loin all over with the remaining 1 teaspoons salt and the pepper. Place the pork in a roasting pan fitted with a rack.

5. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan, and when it is bubbly, stir in the breadcrumbs. Cook until the breadcrumbs are golden brown, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs evenly over the top of the pork loin. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saute pan, and when it is bubbly, stir in the breadcrumbs. Cook until the breadcrumbs are golden brown, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs evenly over the top of the pork loin.

6. Roast the stuffed pork loin in the oven until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the roast registers 140 to 145F, usually 35 to 40 minutes. Allow the roast to rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Roast the stuffed pork loin in the oven until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the roast registers 140 to 145F, usually 35 to 40 minutes. Allow the roast to rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

7. Slice the roast, and serve with the Pear-Parsnip Puree. Slice the roast, and serve with the Pear-Parsnip Puree.

8 servings

Pear-Parsnip Puree Parsnips, a root vegetable closely related to carrots, are considered a winter vegetable because their flavor develops as the temperatures get cooler. I like roasting them to really concentrate their unique sweet, celery-like flavor. The pears, roasted in brown b.u.t.ter and walnut liqueur, add a sweet, nutty taste that complements the parsnips. This is a fall favorite in my house.

1 pounds parsnips, peeled and chopped6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon light brown sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon1/8 teaspoon ground allspice4 ripe Anjou pears, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch pieces2 tablespoons walnut liqueur cup sour cream teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

2. Combine the parsnips, 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter, and the brown sugar, cinnamon, and allspice in a small baking dish. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil, and bake until the parsnips are tender, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and uncover. Combine the parsnips, 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter, and the brown sugar, cinnamon, and allspice in a small baking dish. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil, and bake until the parsnips are tender, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and uncover.

3. In a large skillet, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter over medium heat. When the b.u.t.ter is just beginning to turn brown, add the pears and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add the liqueur and carefully tilt the pan to ignite the contents. (Alternatively, remove the skillet from the heat, carefully light with a match, and return the skillet to the heat.) Cook while flaming for 2 minutes. Transfer the pears to a food processor. In a large skillet, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter over medium heat. When the b.u.t.ter is just beginning to turn brown, add the pears and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add the liqueur and carefully tilt the pan to ignite the contents. (Alternatively, remove the skillet from the heat, carefully light with a match, and return the skillet to the heat.) Cook while flaming for 2 minutes. Transfer the pears to a food processor.

4. Add the parsnips and any residual juices from the baking dish to the food processor, and puree for 30 seconds. Add the sour cream, salt, and pepper, and process until smooth. Add the parsnips and any residual juices from the baking dish to the food processor, and puree for 30 seconds. Add the sour cream, salt, and pepper, and process until smooth.

5. Serve immediately, or cover to keep warm until ready to serve. Serve immediately, or cover to keep warm until ready to serve.

4 to 6 servings

Outstanding Rib Roast with Gremolata Don't save this for a holiday dinner. Have a get-together tonight so you can have the most amazing roast beef sandwiches tomorrow. Think of it: with the freshest lettuce and tomatoes and a cooled horseradish cream sauce (it'll spread like mayo), cracked black pepper, between slices of toasted bread . . . need I say more?

One 7- to 8-pound beef rib roast (with four rib bones) cup olive oil cup smashed garlic cloves (about 10 cloves) cup canned anchovy fillets cup chopped onion cup fresh rosemary leaves (from about 5 sprigs)2 teaspoons kosher salt2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper1 onion, cut into 1-inch pieces1 carrot, cut into 1-inch pieces1 celery stalk, cut into 1-inch pieces1 cup beef or chicken stock, or canned low-sodium beef or chicken broth, as neededGremolata (recipe follows)Fresh Horseradish Cream Sauce (chapter "Roots, Shoots, Tubers, and Bulbs") 1. Tie the roast with cooking twine between the rib bones (in three sections) so it will hold its shape while roasting, and allow it to sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Tie the roast with cooking twine between the rib bones (in three sections) so it will hold its shape while roasting, and allow it to sit at room temperature for 1 hour.

2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

3. Place the olive oil, garlic, anchovies, chopped onion, rosemary, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and process until you have a smooth paste. (Alternatively, chop everything except the oil together, then mash the mixture in a mortar and pestle until smooth; then incorporate the oil.) Set the paste aside. Place the olive oil, garlic, anchovies, chopped onion, rosemary, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and process until you have a smooth paste. (Alternatively, chop everything except the oil together, then mash the mixture in a mortar and pestle until smooth; then incorporate the oil.) Set the paste aside.

4. Place the onion, carrot, and celery pieces in a roasting pan or a metal baking dish that is large enough to hold the rib roast. Using a flexible spatula, smear the paste on all sides of the roast. Set the roast on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven for 1 hours. Place the onion, carrot, and celery pieces in a roasting pan or a metal baking dish that is large enough to hold the rib roast. Using a flexible spatula, smear the paste on all sides of the roast. Set the roast on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven for 1 hours.

5. Continue to cook to desired degree of doneness, checking the internal temperature of the roast with an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part. It should read 125F to 130F for rare to medium-rare. If you would prefer the roast to be medium to medium-well throughout, add a cup of broth to the pan to prevent the vegetables from burning, and continue to cook up to 30 minutes longer. Continue to cook to desired degree of doneness, checking the internal temperature of the roast with an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part. It should read 125F to 130F for rare to medium-rare. If you would prefer the roast to be medium to medium-well throughout, add a cup of broth to the pan to prevent the vegetables from burning, and continue to cook up to 30 minutes longer.

6. Remove the roast from the oven and cut the string. Brush the gremolata over the hot roast, and allow the roast to rest for 30 to 40 minutes so that the juices can redistribute through the meat. Remove the roast from the oven and cut the string. Brush the gremolata over the hot roast, and allow the roast to rest for 30 to 40 minutes so that the juices can redistribute through the meat.

7. To carve the roast, detach the entire section of rib bones by slicing along the side of the roast against the bone until it is separated. Turn the roast on its flat side and slice across the grain to the desired thickness. Alternatively, you can serve the beef without separating the ribs: turn the roast on its end (vertically), and while holding it steady with a carving fork, carve slices by cutting against the grain with a very sharp knife. Or (probably the easiest way to envision slicing), lay the roast on a cutting board, ribs down, and carve by slicing the ribs apart. To carve the roast, detach the entire section of rib bones by slicing along the side of the roast against the bone until it is separated. Turn the roast on its flat side and slice across the grain to the desired thickness. Alternatively, you can serve the beef without separating the ribs: turn the roast on its end (vertically), and while holding it steady with a carving fork, carve slices by cutting against the grain with a very sharp knife. Or (probably the easiest way to envision slicing), lay the roast on a cutting board, ribs down, and carve by slicing the ribs apart.

8. Serve the sliced roast with warm Fresh Horseradish Cream Sauce. Serve the sliced roast with warm Fresh Horseradish Cream Sauce.

8 servings

Gremolata Serve this sprinkled over os...o...b..co, braised lamb shanks, or roast beef.

cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic1 tablespoon grated lemon zest Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl, and stir to blend.

About cup, 6 servings

Braised Lamb Shanks If you can find it, opt for gra.s.s-fed lamb whenever possible-the flavor is unparalleled. These tender shanks create their own rich sauce that just begs to be served over the Creamy Polenta on chapter "From the Mill", the Creamy Stone-Ground Grits on chapter "From the Mill", simple mashed potatoes, or even steamed white rice. Put this together, pop it in the oven one midafternoon, and come back a couple hours later to a veritable feast.