Mix together the chestnut puree and melted chocolate until smooth. Whip the cream until thick, then fold into the chocolate-chestnut mixture. Spread the filling over the chocolate sponge, leaving a -inch border clear all around the edge.

Starting at one long edge, roll up the sponge to form a neat log, using the parchment paper to help you. Making sure the join is underneath, wrap the paper around the roulade, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

If necessary, gently roll the roulade on the work surface to even out the shape, then unwrap and slide onto a cake plate. If you like, dust with confectioners' sugar before slicing and serving.

basics A good stock is the basis for many a successful dish. Making your own gives you more control over the finished dish, and allows you to make good use of tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs and capture flavors that would otherwise be wasted. Stocks keep well in the freezer. Another homemade treat is mayonnaise: It tastes brilliant and is easy and quick-abandon any idea you may have that making it is tricky. Making pastry is a little trickier, but it gets easier with practice. The only pastry I rarely make myself is puff pastry; I usually buy it from a good source. All the other pastries, however, can be put together with little fuss, and the results always justify the small amount of work put in. This is my collection of essential basic recipes to enhance the dishes in this book.

Mayonnaise Chicken stock & Clear chicken stock Vegetable stock Beef stock Lamb stock Fish stock Basic short pastry Sweet tart pastry Sweet walnut pastry & Walnut and Parmesan pastry

Mayonnaise Makes about 2 cups

4 extra-large egg yolks 2 teaspoons white-wine vinegar 2 teaspoons English mustard 2 cups peanut oil (or light olive oil) 12 tablespoons cold water

Put the egg yolks, vinegar, mustard, and some salt and pepper into a food processor and blitz until the mixture is very thick and creamy. With the motor running, slowly trickle in the oil in a steady stream. Add the water and blitz to help stabilize the emulsion. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Will keep, in a covered jar in the refrigerator, for 3 days.

Chicken stock Makes about 6 cups

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large carrot, roughly chopped 1 onion, roughly chopped 2 celery ribs, roughly chopped 1 leek, sliced 1 bay leaf sprig of fresh thyme 3 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 pounds raw chicken bones (roasted, if making brown chicken stock)

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot and add the vegetables, herbs, and garlic. Saute over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are golden. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute longer. Add the chicken bones, then pour in enough cold water to cover, about 8 cups. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, skimming off any sc.u.m that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat and let simmer gently for 1 hour.

Let the stock stand for a few minutes to cool slightly and allow the ingredients to settle before straining through a fine sieve. Cool and refrigerate, or freeze in convenient portions. Use up fresh stock within 5 days or keep frozen for up to 3 months.

Clear chicken stock

Make the stock as above, strain, and let cool completely. Blend 1 cup ground chicken and 3 egg whites together in a food processor. Whisk the mixture into the stock and place over high heat. Keep whisking until the mixture comes to a boil. A foamy layer of impurities will float to the surface of the stock and form a crust. As soon as the liquid begins to creep up the sides of the pan, remove the pan from the heat. Carefully pour the stock through a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a large pot and let the liquid drip through. To keep the stock clear, do not press down on the crust or squeeze the cheesecloth. Season to taste. Reheat the stock before serving.

Vegetable stock Makes about 6 cups

3 onions, roughly chopped 1 leek, roughly chopped 2 celery ribs, roughly chopped 6 carrots, roughly chopped 1 head of garlic, split horizontally 1 teaspoon white peppercorns 1 bay leaf few sprigs of fresh thyme, basil, tarragon, cilantro, and parsley, tied together 1 cup dry white wine

Put the vegetables, garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaf in a large stockpot and pour in cold water to cover, about 8 cups. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and let cook gently for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the bundle of herbs, white wine, and a little seasoning. Give the stock a stir and let cool completely.

If you have time, chill the stock overnight before straining through a fine sieve. Keep refrigerated and use within 5 days, or freeze the stock in convenient portions for up to 3 months.

Beef stock Makes about 6 cups

3 pounds beef or veal marrowbones, chopped into 2-inch pieces 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 2 onions, roughly chopped 2 carrots, roughly chopped 2 celery ribs, roughly chopped 1 large fennel bulb, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste 4 ounces b.u.t.ton mushrooms 1 bay leaf sprig of fresh thyme 1 teaspoon black peppercorns

Preheat the oven to 425F. Spread the bones in a large roasting pan and toss with a little olive oil to coat. Roast until evenly browned, about 1 hour, turning them over halfway.

Heat the oil in a large stockpot and add the vegetables. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Add the tomato paste and fry for 2 minutes longer. Add the browned bones to the pot and pour in water to cover, about 810 cups. Bring to a simmer, skimming off the froth and sc.u.m that rise to the surface.

Add the mushrooms, bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns. Simmer the stock for 68 hours until you are satisfied with the flavor. Let stand for a few minutes before straining through a fine sieve. Let cool, then refrigerate, or freeze in convenient portions. Use fresh stock within 5 days or keep frozen for up to 3 months.

Lamb stock Makes about 5 cups

2 pounds lamb rib or neck bones 23 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 onion, roughly chopped 2 carrots, roughly chopped 1 celery rib, roughly chopped head of garlic, cut horizontally tablespoon tomato paste 1/3 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 bay leaf few sprigs of fresh thyme and flat-leaf parsley

Preheat the oven to 425F. Spread the bones in a large roasting pan and toss with a little olive oil to coat. Roast until evenly browned, 4560 minutes, turning them over halfway.

Heat the oil in a large stockpot and add the vegetables and garlic. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Add the tomato paste and fry for 2 minutes longer. Add the wine and let it boil until reduced by half. Add the browned bones to the pot. Pour in water to cover, about 8 cups. Bring to a simmer, skimming off the froth and sc.u.m that rise to the surface.

Add the peppercorns and herbs. Simmer the stock for 46 hours until you are happy with the flavor. Take the pot off the heat and let stand for a few minutes before straining through a fine sieve. Let cool, then refrigerate, or freeze in convenient portions. Use fresh stock within 5 days or keep frozen for up to 3 months.

Fish stock Makes about 4 cups

2 pounds white fish bones and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, roughly chopped celery rib, roughly chopped 1 small fennel bulb, roughly chopped 1 small leek, sliced 1/3 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine

If using fish heads, cut out the eyes and gills and remove any traces of blood. Heat the olive oil in a stockpot and add the vegetables and a little salt and pepper. Stir over medium heat until the vegetables begin to soften but not brown, 34 minutes. Add the fish bones and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, the wine, and enough cold water to cover, about 45 cups. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Ladle the stock into a fine sieve to strain. Refrigerate and use within 2 days, or freeze in convenient portions for up to 3 months.

Basic short pastry Makes about 1 pound

12/3 cups all-purpose flour cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 6 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, diced 46 tablespoons ice water

Place the flour, salt, and b.u.t.ter in a food processor. Blitz until the mixture resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs, about 10 seconds. Tip into a mixing bowl. Add 4 tablespoons of water and stir with a table knife until the dough just comes together. If it seems too dry, add 12 tablespoons more water. (Try not to make the dough too wet, because this results in a crumbly pastry.) Lightly knead the dough into a smooth ball, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using.

Sweet tart pastry Makes about 1 pound

cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, softened to room temperature 7 tablespoons sugar 1 extra-large egg 1 cups all-purpose flour

Place the b.u.t.ter and sugar in a food processor and blitz until just combined. Add the egg and blitz for 30 seconds. Tip in the flour and process for a few seconds until the dough just comes together. (Be careful not to over-process, or the dough will become tough.) Add a tablespoon of cold water if the dough seems too dry. Knead lightly on a floured surface and shape into a flat disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes before using.

Sweet walnut pastry Makes about 1 pound

1 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup finely ground walnuts cup sugar 7 tablespoons cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, diced 1 large egg, lightly beaten 12 tablespoons whole milk