SERVES 8 8.

Pudding: 7 ounces Medjool dates, pitted and chopped (about 1 heaped cup) scant 1 cup packed dark brown sugar 1 cup water 7 tablespoons lightly salted b.u.t.ter, softened 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon cooled espresso or strong black coffee 3 extra-large eggs 1 cup all-purpose flour cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder Sauce: cup packed dark brown sugar 5 tablespoons lightly salted b.u.t.ter 1 cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter eight 6-ounce ramekins or other individual molds and line the bottom of each with a disk of b.u.t.tered parchment paper (or use an 8-inch square cake pan to make one large pudding).

Put the dates, sugar, and water in a saucepan and simmer gently until the sugar has dissolved and the dates are very soft, about 10 minutes. Let cool, then blend in a food processor until smooth. Add the b.u.t.ter, vanilla, espresso, and eggs and blitz again until well blended. Sc.r.a.pe the mixture into a large mixing bowl. In two batches, sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and baking powder into the bowl and fold into the wet mixture. Divide among the prepared molds. Bake for 2025 minutes (or 4050 minutes if using a cake pan): The puddings are ready when a skewer inserted into the center emerges fairly clean.

Put all the sauce ingredients into a saucepan and simmer, stirring frequently, until the sauce is smooth, 23 minutes. Keep warm, stirring every once in a while to prevent a skin from forming on top.

When the puddings are just cool enough to handle, but still warm, run a small knife around them and unmold onto individual serving plates (if baked in a cake pan, cut into squares for serving). Peel off the parchment disk. Pour a generous drizzle of warm sauce over each pudding and serve immediately.Chocolate and coffee pots These chocolate and coffee custards are rich and meltingly smooth, and as good on the eye as they are on the palate. Because the custards are gently baked in a water bath, you can set them in pretty teacups, as I have done, or use regular ramekins for a simpler presentation.

SERVES 4 4.

1 cup heavy cream 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (minimum 65% cocoa solids), chopped cup light cream 2 extra-large egg yolks 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons cooled espresso or strong black coffee 4 tablespoons creme fraiche for serving (optional) chocolate shavings for garnish (optional)

Preheat the oven to 325F. In a medium saucepan, scald the heavy cream, then add the chocolate and stir until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the light cream, and let cool.

Beat the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until pale and thick enough to fall in a lazy ribbon from the beaters when they are lifted out, about 5 minutes. Fold in the cooled chocolate cream, followed by the espresso.

Divide the mixture among four 4- to 5-ounce teacups, ramekins, or other individual molds. Place the filled cups in a roasting pan. Set the pan on the bottom shelf of the oven and pull out the shelf halfway while keeping the pan level. Carefully pour enough boiling water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the molds. Carefully push the shelf back into the oven.

Bake until the custards are just set at the edges but still slightly soft in the center, 2025 minutes. Remove the molds from the water bath and let cool completely. Chill for a few hours or overnight.

Remove from the refrigerator 1015 minutes before serving, garnished with a neat little dollop of creme fraiche and some chocolate shavings, if you like.

Black Forest cake Dark chocolate and cherries will always be a winning combination. The chocolate sponge cake in this recipe has just the right texture for absorbing a drizzle of kirsch, which keeps it delectably moist. Fresh stemmed cherries are the perfect garnish for the a.s.sembled cake, but if they're not available, use a large jar of marinated cherries in kirsch.

SERVES 8 8.

Chocolate sponge cake: 1 cup cake flour 1 tablespoon baking powder pinch of fine sea salt 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 5 extra-large eggs, separated cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, softened cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons cooled espresso or strong black coffee 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (minimum 65% cocoa solids), melted in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water Filling and topping: 1 pound ripe cherries 5 tablespoons granulated sugar 5 tablespoons kirsch or cherry brandy 2 cups heavy cream 12 tablespoons confectioners' sugar, to taste 45 tablespoons good-quality cherry preserves grated chocolate for garnish

Preheat the oven to 300F. b.u.t.ter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch-diameter cake pan, then line the bottom with a disk of b.u.t.tered parchment paper. Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, and cocoa powder together and set aside.

In a large, greasefree bowl, beat the egg whites to firm peaks. In another mixing bowl, beat the b.u.t.ter and sugar together until pale and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, then fold in the espresso, followed by the melted chocolate.

In several batches, fold the sifted flour mixture and the beaten egg whites alternately into the chocolate mixture. Spread the batter in the prepared pan and level with a spatula. Bake until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake emerges clean, 4050 minutes. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then unmold onto a wire rack. Peel off the parchment.

Remove the stems and pits from three-quarters of the cherries. Put all the cherries, the sugar, and kirsch in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the cherries are just soft, giving them an occasional stir. Tip the cherries and kirsch syrup into a bowl and let cool completely. Meanwhile, whip the cream with the confectioners' sugar to soft peaks.

Using a long, sharp knife, cut the cake horizontally into two layers. Drizzle the kirsch syrup from the cherries over the layers to moisten. Place the bottom layer on a cake plate and spread half of the whipped cream on top. Arrange the stemmed and pitted cherries over the cream, then spoon a layer of cherry preserves over the cherries. Put the upper cake layer in place and spread the remaining cream on top. Sprinkle with a little grated chocolate and garnish with the whole stemmed cherries. This cake is best served on the day it is made.

Dark chocolate marquise There's no denying that this is a seriously rich and indulgent dessert. When you take a bite, the velvety smooth mousse melts in your mouth. It requires a bit of patience and persistence to make-you need to beat separated eggs and cream individually, then fold together with melted bittersweet chocolate. I've set the mousse on top of a thin chocolate sponge cake, which you could replace with a simple cheesecake base (see Chapter 8).

SERVES 12 12.

Sponge cake base: 3 large eggs, separated 6 tablespoons superfine sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder cup cake flour Rich mousse topping: 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (minimum 65% cocoa solids), roughly chopped 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier/Cointreau, plus extra for drizzling 2 tablespoons orange juice 3 extra-large eggs 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 3 tablespoons clear honey 1 cups heavy cream unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting

First, make the sponge cake. Preheat the oven to 400F. Line a baking sheet with a large sheet of parchment paper. Beat the egg whites in a large mixing bowl until just firm. Gradually beat in the sugar to make a stiff meringue. Beat the egg yolks in another bowl until light and fluffy, then fold into the meringue.

Sift the cornstarch, cocoa powder, and flour together over the mixture and fold through. Spread the cake batter over the lined baking sheet into a large round 1012 inches in diameter and an even thickness all over. Don't worry if it is not a perfect circle. Bake until set and springy when gently pressed, 78 minutes. Invert onto a wire rack to cool and peel off the parchment.

For the mousse topping, melt the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. Remove the bowl from the heat and let cool slightly, then stir in the Grand Marnier and orange juice. Leave the pan of water simmering over very low heat.

Using a hand-held electric mixer, beat the eggs in a large heatproof bowl until pale and fluffy. Add the sugar and honey. Set the bowl over the pan of barely simmering water and beat until the mixture is very light and has more than tripled in volume, 510 minutes. Remove the bowl from the pan and continue to beat until the mixture has cooled slightly.

Using the same beaters, whip the cream to soft peaks. Fold into the beaten egg mixture. Finally, fold in the melted chocolate until evenly incorporated.

Use a 10-inch-diameter springform cake pan as a guide to cut out a neat circle from the sponge cake, then use this to line the bottom of the pan. Drizzle a few tablespoons of Grand Marnier over the base, then spread the chocolate mousse mixture on top. Level the top with a spatula. Refrigerate until set, at least 6 hours.

Before serving, dust the top with cocoa powder, then unmold and cut into individual slices using a warm knife.

Coffee and almond crunch cake For me, this is the definitive cake to have with coffee or tea. It is all at once tender, moist, and crunchy. It will keep well for several days in a cool part of the kitchen. Some people like a dollop of lightly sweetened mascarpone on the side, although I think it's perfect on its own.

SERVES 68 68 Cake: cup (1 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 3 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten teaspoon almond extract 1 heaped cup ground almonds cup cooled espresso or strong black coffee 2/3 cup self-rising flour cup self-rising flour teaspoon baking powder confectioners' sugar for dusting Crunch topping: cup all-purpose flour cup packed light brown sugar 4 tablespoons ( stick) cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, diced

Preheat the oven to 300F. b.u.t.ter the bottom and sides of a deep 8-inch-diameter cake pan with a removable bottom. For the crunch topping, mix the flour and sugar in a bowl and rub in the b.u.t.ter until it resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs. Set aside.

Using a mixer, cream the b.u.t.ter and sugar in a large mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, a little at a time, until fully incorporated. Add the almond extract and mix well. Fold in the ground almonds, followed by half the espresso. Sift in the flour and baking powder together and fold this through the mixture. Finally, fold in the remaining espresso.

Spread the batter in the cake pan and level with a spatula. Bake for 30 minutes. Sprinkle the crunch topping evenly over the top, then continue baking until the top is golden brown and a skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 2030 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly before unmolding onto a wire rack. Peel away the parchment. When completely cooled, dust with confectioners' sugar, then cut into slices to serve.Chocolate roulade with chocolate-chestnut cream The creamy chestnut filling goes perfectly with the light chocolate sponge cake in this dessert. You can dress it up with a chocolate frosting, or dust with confectioners' sugar and decorate with chocolate leaves.

SERVES 810 810 Chocolate sponge cake: confectioners' sugar for dusting unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting 5 extra-large egg whites cup superfine sugar 3 tablespoons self-rising flour 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (minimum 65% cocoa solids), melted in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water 3 tablespoons cooled espresso or strong black coffee Filling: 1 cup sweetened chestnut puree 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (minimum 65% cocoa solids), melted in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water 1 cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350F. Lightly oil a jelly-roll pan that is about 10 by 14 inches, then line it with parchment paper, leaving the edges of the paper sticking up around the sides. Dust evenly with a mixture of confectioners' sugar and cocoa powder (about 1 tablespoon of each).

Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks in a large, greasefree bowl. Gradually beat in the superfine sugar, a tablespoon at a time, until the meringue is in firm peaks again. Sift the flour over the meringue and gently fold through with a large metal spoon. Mix the melted chocolate with the espresso, then fold this through the meringue to combine. Spread the batter in the lined pan using a spatula to even out the surface. Bake until the top is set and the sponge is slightly springy when gently pressed, 1520 minutes. Pull the parchment and slide the cake onto a wire rack to cool slightly. Cover with a damp dish towel and let cool completely.

Lay a sheet of parchment or wax paper, larger than the sponge, on the work surface. Sift a little confectioners' sugar and cocoa powder over the paper. Invert the sponge on top, then peel off the parchment lining.