MAKES ABOUT 20 SMALL PIZZAS FOR THE DOUGHabout 1 cup warm yogurt2 teaspoons dried yeastpinch of sugar cup warm water31/3 cups strong white bread flour1 teaspoon salt cup extra virgin olive oilFOR THE MEAT AND TOMATO TOPPING1 large onion1 pounds ground lamb3 large garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon ground allspicesalt and black pepper2 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.ses1 pound tomatoes, unpeeled, finely chopped cup pine nuts (optional) To warm the yogurt, put the pot in a bowl or pan of hot, not boiling, water for about 1 hour. Dissolve the yeast with the sugar in the cup of warm water and leave for about 10 minutes, until it froths. In a large bowl, mix the flour with the salt and oil, then add the yeast mixture and just enough of the yogurt to make the dough hold together in a ball. Begin by mixing with a fork, then work with your hands. Knead for about 10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Pour a drop of oil in the bowl and roll the dough around in it to grease it all over and prevent a dry skin from forming. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for 1 hours, until it has doubled in bulk.

For the topping, finely chop the onion in the food processor and drain it of its juices. Put the meat, onion, garlic, allspice, salt, pepper, and pomegranate mola.s.ses in a bowl. Mix well and work into a soft paste with your hands. Then work in the tomato and the pine nuts, if using.

Punch down the risen dough and knead for 1 minute. Take lumps the size of a large walnut if making mini pizzas, or the size of an egg if making large ones, and roll out on a clean surface with a rolling pin. Do not flour these as the dough is very greasy and will not stick. Roll out thinly into rounds about 1/8 inch thick and place on oiled sheets of foil on baking trays.

Take lumps of the topping mixture and spread thickly over each round of dough- go right up to the edges as the topping tends to shrink while the dough expands as it cooks.

Bake one tray at a time in an oven preheated to 400F for 15 minutes, placing each on the top shelf. Serve the pizzas hot.

VARIATION For a Meat and Yogurt Topping: Mix 1 pounds ground lamb, 1 large onion (finely chopped in the food processor and drained of its juices), cup plain whole-milk yogurt, the juice of lemon, salt and pepper, teaspoon ground allspice, and 1/3 cup pine nuts.

For Meat and Tomato with Chili: Work together to a paste 1 large onion (very finely chopped in the food processor and drained of its juices), to 1 finely chopped chili pepper, 1 pounds ground lamb, 4 tablespoons concentrated tomato paste, 2 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.ses, salt, and pepper.

RED LENTIL and and RICE SOUP RICE SOUP Makhlouta Serve this creamy soup with thin Lebanese flat bread cut into triangles, opened out, brushed with olive oil, and toasted in the oven until crisp.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 large onions, sliced3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil7 cups chicken stock (made with 2 bouillon cubes)1 cup red lentils cup short-grain or risotto riceblack pepper2 teaspoons ground coriandersalt1 teaspoon ground c.u.min2 lemons Fry the onions in the oil. Cover the pan and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until they soften. Then cook over high heat, stirring often, until they are very brown and caramelized. Drain on paper towels and keep them aside.

Bring the stock to the boil then put in the lentils and rice. Add the black pepper and the ground coriander, and simmer for about 35 to 45 minutes, until the lentils and rice fall apart and the soup has a creamy texture. Add a little salt toward the end of the cooking time, taking into account the saltiness of the bouillon cubes, and a little water, if necessary, to thin the soup to a light creamy consistency.

Serve, sprinkling each bowlful with a pinch of c.u.min and garnishing each with a topping of fried onions. Pa.s.s around lemon quarters.

GREEN VEGETABLE SOUP This spring soup is green and aromatic. It becomes more substantial if served over rice. Other vegetables such as artichoke bottoms (frozen ones will do; see page 8 8 ) cut into pieces, peas, and broad beans can also be added. ) cut into pieces, peas, and broad beans can also be added.

SERVES 6 TO 8 1 cup long-grain or washed basmati rice8 cups chicken or vegetable stock (made with 2 bouillon cubes)2 leeks1 small head of celery with leavessalt and white pepper3 to 4 garlic cloves, crushedjuice of 1 lemon1 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste7 ounces zucchini2 tablespoons dried mint To cook the rice, add it to plenty of boiling, salted water and simmer for 10 to 18 minutes (the time varies depending on the type of rice), or until tender, then drain quickly. Keep it aside until you are ready to serve.

Heat the stock in a large pan. Cut the leeks crosswise and the celery into slices about 1/3 inch thick and add them to the pan. Simmer for about 30 minutes, until they are tender. Add salt (taking into account the saltiness of the stock), white pepper, garlic, lemon juice, and sugar.

Trim the zucchini of their ends and cut in half lengthwise and then into 1/3-inch-thick slices. Add them to the pan and cook for 5 minutes, then add the mint and cook 5 minutes more. Taste and adjust the flavorings.

Serve in soup bowls over the rice.

Main Courses Everyone in Lebanon appreciates the old traditional dishes that now make up the national cuisine. The repertoire is mainly represented by the refined, sophisticated dishes of the old Greek Orthodox and Sunni grande bourgeoisie grande bourgeoisie of Beirut and those of the Maronite of Beirut and those of the Maronite grands seigneurs grands seigneurs of the mountains, combined with simple rural dishes and with the festive dishes a.s.sociated with religious holidays. There are traditionalists, modernizers who may simply lighten the cooking and present the food in a novel way, and there are those who allow themselves to be creative. of the mountains, combined with simple rural dishes and with the festive dishes a.s.sociated with religious holidays. There are traditionalists, modernizers who may simply lighten the cooking and present the food in a novel way, and there are those who allow themselves to be creative.

SEA BREAM with with SAFFRON RICE SAFFRON RICE Samak Wal Roz Bil Zafaran Ask the fishmonger to clean and scale the fish, and remove the fins and gills, but ask him to leave the heads on. The rice, which is cooked with olive oil instead of the usual b.u.t.ter, is the traditional rice to accompany fish in Lebanon. Turmeric is sometimes used instead of saffron. Start cooking the rice first.

SERVES 4 FOR THE RICE6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil teaspoon saffron powder or threads1 cups long-grain rice21/3 cups boiling watersalt and black pepper2 medium onions, sliced cup pine nuts4 sea bream (weighing about 14 ounces each)salt and black pepper2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilTo serve: 1 lemon For the rice, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a pan. Stir in the saffron and add the rice. Stir well, until the rice acquires a transparent yellow glow. Add the boiling water, stir in the salt and pepper, and simmer over low heat, covered and undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the water has been absorbed. Then stir in another 2 tablespoons oil.

Fry the onions in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, stirring occasionally, until brown. Add the pine nuts, and stir until they are lightly colored.

Make 3 to 4 slashes about 1/3 inch deep in the thickest part of the fish so that they cook evenly. Put them side by side in a baking dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and rub them generously with olive oil. Bake in an oven preheated to 425F for about 15 minutes.

Serve the fish with lemon quarters, and the rice separately, shaped in a mound and garnished with the pine nuts and onions.

PAN - FRIED RED MULLET with with TAHINI SAUCE TAHINI SAUCE Sultan Ibrahim Makli Bi Tehine The most popular item on the menu in the fish restaurants along the long Lebanese coast are the deep-fried red mullet that come accompanied by a tahini sauce and very thin crisp deep-fried bread. They are fried whole, coated with flour, but at home I find it easier to pan-fry red mullet fillets.

SERVES 4 FOR THE TAHINI SAUCE1/3 cup tahinijuice of 1 lemonabout 1/3 cup cold watersalt to 1 clove garlic, crushed (optional)8 red mullet fillets (weighing about 3 ounces each), skin onsalt and black pepper2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 lemon, cut in wedges First, make the sauce. Stir the tahini in the jar before using. With a fork, beat the tahini with the lemon juice. It will thicken to a stiff paste. Add the water, beating vigorously until you get the consistency of a pale, runny cream. Then add a little salt and the garlic, if using, and pour into a serving bowl.

Season the red mullet fillets with salt and pepper and fry in the oil over medium-high heat, preferably in a nonstick frying pan, for about 2 minutes on the skin side. Turn and cook the other side for half a minute more.

Serve the fish at once, with the lemon wedges, and let people pour the tahini sauce on the side.

VARIATION Season 4 fish fillets (5 to 7 ounces each), such as cod or haddock, with salt and white pepper and teaspoon ground c.u.min. Dip the fillets in flour to coat them all over, and shallow-fry in sizzling olive oil, turning over once. Drain on paper towels and serve with the tahini sauce.

FISH with with PINE NUT SAUCE PINE NUT SAUCE Samak Bil Tarator Bi Sen.o.bar This is a dish that is served cold and is especially good for a buffet party. It is beautiful and dramatic. Get a large white fish-sea ba.s.s would be great but is expensive; cod or haddock will do very well. (Although salmon is not a fish used in Lebanon, and not a fish of the Mediterranean regions, it is good to serve in this way.) Have the fish skinned and also filleted, if you like, and ask for the head and tail. Cooked in foil, the fish steams in its own juice and the flesh remains moist. The pine nut sauce, tarator bi sen.o.bar, has a very delicate flavor. has a very delicate flavor.

SERVES 8 serves 8 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 whole cod (weighing about 5 pounds)salt1 lemon, cut into thin slicesTo garnish: 3 tablespoons pine nuts or 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, and 2 lemons, slicedFOR THE PINE NUT SAUCEAND2 slices good white bread, inch thick12/3 cups pine nutsjuice of 2 lemons2 garlic cloves, crushedsalt Brush a large sheet of foil with a little of the olive oil. Place the fish in the middle, sprinkle lightly with salt and rub with the remaining oil. Sprinkle the cavity of the fish with a little salt and put in the lemon slices. Wrap in a loose parcel, twisting the foil edges together to seal it. Wrap the head and tail separately in another piece of foil.

Bake the fish in an oven preheated to 400F for 45 minutes, or until done. To test for doneness, cut into the thickest part and check that the flesh flakes and has turned white right through. The head and tail should come out of the oven after 20 minutes.

For the sauce, cut away the crusts from the bread (it should now weigh about 3 ounces) and soak the slices in water. Blend the pine nuts to a paste in the food processor. Then add the bread, squeezed dry, lemon juice, and garlic and blend well. Add a little salt and about 3 to 4 tablespoons of cold water-just enough to blend to the consistency of thick cream.

Serve the fish cold, covered with the sauce, and with the head and tail in place. Decorate with a pattern using pine nuts that have been fried gently in a drop of oil until slightly colored, or with parsley, and with lemon slices cut into half-moon shapes.

FISH with with RICE RICE and and ONION SAUCE ONION SAUCE Sayyadieh The distinctive feature of this famous Arab fish and rice dish is the flavor of caramelized onions in the brown broth that suffuses the rice and colors it a pale brown. Use skinned fillets of white fish such as bream, turbot, haddock, or cod.

SERVES 4 About 1 pounds onions, sliced4 to 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 fish or chicken bouillon cubessalt and black pepper teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground allspice1 cups long-grain or washed basmati rice4 fish fillets (each weighing 5 to 7 ounces) to 1 lemon2/3 cup pine nuts In a large saucepan, fry the onions in 2 tablespoons oil over low heat, with the lid on until they are soft and transparent, stirring occasionally. Then take off the lid and let them get very dark brown and caramelized. Blend them to a cream in the food processor and return this to the pan.

Add about 4 cups boiling water and the crumbled bouillon cubes; season with salt, pepper, c.u.min, and allspice, and simmer for about 10 minutes.

Pour out the onion stock to measure the quant.i.ty you need for cooking the rice. Return 2 cups to the pan, and put the rest aside to use as the sauce. Add the rice and some salt, stir well, and cook, covered, over a low heat, for about 10 to 18 minutes, until the rice is tender. (Some brands that claim not to be parboiled or precooked now take as little as 8 to 10 minutes, so read the information on the package.) Set it aside until you are ready to serve.

Pan-fry the fish fillets, seasoned with salt and pepper, in the remaining oil, for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until the flesh just begins to flake. Squeeze a little lemon juice over them. Fry the pine nuts in a drop of oil until lightly browned. Reheat the onion sauce, adding a little lemon juice to taste.

Serve the rice heaped in a mound with the sauce poured over. Arrange the pieces of fish on top or around the rice and sprinkle with the pine nuts.

VARIATION A way of preparing the dish in advance is to layer it in a deep baking dish-pine nuts first, then fish, then rice-and heat it through in the oven. Turn it out upside down just before serving, and serve the sauce separately.

You can accompany the dish with the tahini sauce on page 290 as well as its brown sauce.

For a "white" version of the same dish, the onions should be meltingly soft, but should not be allowed to brown.

CHICKEN PIE with with ONIONS ONIONS and and SUMAC SUMAC Musakhan This pie with a beguilingly flavorsome filling is a refined interpretation of musakhan, musakhan, which is of Bedouin origin and is baked in thin Arab bread. It is delicious, and you must try it. It can be made in advance and reheated before serving. Use the large-size sheets of fillo (about which is of Bedouin origin and is baked in thin Arab bread. It is delicious, and you must try it. It can be made in advance and reheated before serving. Use the large-size sheets of fillo (about 19 19 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches) that are sold frozen, and defrost for inches) that are sold frozen, and defrost for 2 2 to to 3 3 hours; see page hours; see page 9 9 for information about using fillo. for information about using fillo.

SERVES 6 1 pounds onions, sliced2 tablespoons sunflower oil6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs1 tablespoons sumac (see page 7)1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cardamomjuice of to 1 lemonsalt and black pepper7 sheets fillo pastry (about 7 ounces) stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, melted For the filling, fry the onions in the oil until soft and beginning to color. Cook on low heat, with the lid on to start with, stirring occasionally, until they soften. Remove the lid and cook over medium-high heat. Cut the chicken into - to 1-inch pieces and add them to the onions. Cook, turning the pieces, until they are lightly colored all over. Add the sumac, cinnamon, cardamom, lemon juice, salt, and pepper and mix well.

Be ready to a.s.semble the pie quickly so that the fillo does not dry out. Brush a large, round baking pan, about 11 inches in diameter, with melted b.u.t.ter. Place the first sheet of fillo in the pan so that it nestles in the bottom and the two ends hang over the side. Brush the sheet quickly with melted b.u.t.ter, pressing it into the corners with the brush. Repeat with four more of the sheets, so the sides of the pan are completely covered.

Spread the filling evenly in the pan over the sheets and fold the overhanging fillo back over the filling to enclose it, again brushing each bit with melted b.u.t.ter. Cover the surface with the remaining two sheets of fillo, brushing each with melted b.u.t.ter. Tuck them into the sides of the pan, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g them with scissors to make this easier.

Bake the pie in an oven preheated to 350F for 25 minutes, or until browned. Turn it out, upside down, on a large platter and serve hot. Use a finely serrated knife to cut it into wedges.

VARIATION For a more homely snack, fill pita bread with the hot filling and heat through in the oven.

GRILLED POUSSINS with with SUMAC SUMAC Farrouj Meshwi Bil Sumac Poussins in this country tend to have a somewhat bland flavor, but with lemon, sumac, and olive oil they are a treat.

SERVES 2 2 poussinsjuice of lemon2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and black pepper1 teaspoon sumac (see page 7) Cut the poussins down both sides of the backbones with poultry shears or kitchen scissors and remove the bones. Cut the wing and leg joints just enough to pull them a little apart, then open the poussins out and flatten them by pressing down hard with the palm of your hand. Rub them with a mixture of lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Leave in a cool place for 30 minutes to absorb the lemon juice.

Cook the poussins on a sheet of foil under a preheated broiler or on a barbecue, flesh side to the heat, for 10 minutes; then turn and cook the skin side for 5 to 10 minutes. Cut into a thigh with a pointed knife to check for doneness; they are ready when the juices no longer run pink but the meat is still juicy. Sprinkle with sumac and serve with pita or Lebanese bread.

OPTIONAL ACCOMPANIMENT Slice 1 large red or white onion finely and sprinkle generously with salt. Leave for 30 minutes, until the juices run out and it loses its strong flavor. Rinse and drain the onion and mix it with 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley.

CHICKEN and and CHICKPEAS CHICKPEAS with with YOGURT YOGURT Fattet Djaj A number of dishes that go under the general name of fatta fatta all have in common a bed of toasted bread, soaked in stock, and a topping of yogurt. The name denotes the manner of breaking up crisp, toasted bread with your hands. To me, they recall a special person, the late Josephine Salam. all have in common a bed of toasted bread, soaked in stock, and a topping of yogurt. The name denotes the manner of breaking up crisp, toasted bread with your hands. To me, they recall a special person, the late Josephine Salam.Many years ago I received a letter from her from Beirut saying that she had a number of recipes she thought I would like. On our first meeting, at Claridge's tearoom in London, where a band played Noel Coward tunes, she offered to come to my house and show me how to make fatta fatta with chicken. We made that and many more meals together. It was the time of the civil war in Lebanon, and as she came and went from the country, I received an ongoing account of everyday life in the ravaged city. with chicken. We made that and many more meals together. It was the time of the civil war in Lebanon, and as she came and went from the country, I received an ongoing account of everyday life in the ravaged city.Her daughter, Rana, has become an artist and designer. For her thesis at the Royal College of Art in London, she asked me to give a lecture on the history of Middle Eastern food. She had ten portraits of me painted on cloth by a poster-painter in Egypt (he used photographs I gave Rana) and hung them around the college to publicize the event. She laid out foods and spices as in a souk, souk, put on a tape of sounds and music recorded in an Egyptian street, and pa.s.sed around Arab delicacies. When she visited me a few years later with her husband and new baby, I offered her the put on a tape of sounds and music recorded in an Egyptian street, and pa.s.sed around Arab delicacies. When she visited me a few years later with her husband and new baby, I offered her the fatta fatta with stuffed eggplants on page with stuffed eggplants on page 300. 300.

SERVES 8 4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt cup strained Greek-style yogurt2 garlic cloves, crushed1 tablespoons crushed, dried mintsalt1 large chicken1 large onion, cut in half1 large carrot, cut into pieces2 bay leaves1 cinnamon stick6 to 8 cardamom podswhite pepper3 very thin, Lebanese breads or 2 pita breads3 to 4 tablespoons white wine vinegarone 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained2/3 cup pine nuts2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Mix the two types of yogurt in a bowl and beat in the garlic and mint with a little salt. Let it come to room temperature.

Put the chicken in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring it to the boil and remove any sc.u.m. Add the onion, carrot, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, and salt and pepper. Simmer, covered, for 1 to 1 hours, until the chicken is very tender and almost falls off the bone. Lift out the chicken and cut it into pieces, removing the skin and bones. Strain the stock.

Open out the Lebanese or pita breads. Toast them in the oven, or under the broiler, until they are crisp and only lightly browned. Then break them up into pieces in your hands and spread them at the bottom of a wide baking dish. Mix the wine vinegar in about 1 cups of the strained chicken stock, and pour over the bread, adding more if necessary, so that the bread is thoroughly soaked and soggy. Sprinkle the chickpeas over it.

Spread the chicken over the soaked bread and chickpeas and cover the dish with foil. Heat it through in a medium oven 20 minutes before you are ready to serve-it should be very hot.

Just before serving, pour the yogurt evenly all over the dish. Briefly fry the pine nuts in the olive oil until lightly golden and sprinkle over the top.

VARIATION Instead of adding mint to the yogurt, beat in 3 tablespoons tahini.

STUFFED EGGPLANTS, TOASTED BREAD, TOMATO SAUCE, and and YOGURT YOGURT Fattet Batinjan This dish is complex and requires time, but it has dramatic appeal and it is quite delicious with layers of different textures and flavors. I like to add two ingredients that are optional: pomegranate mola.s.ses (see page 7 7 ), which gives a brown color and sweet-and-sour flavor to the tomato sauce, and tahini (see page ), which gives a brown color and sweet-and-sour flavor to the tomato sauce, and tahini (see page 7 7 ), which gives a nutty flavor to the yogurt. Look for small eggplants ), which gives a nutty flavor to the yogurt. Look for small eggplants, 4 4 to to 4 4 inches long, which can usually be found in Middle Eastern and Asian stores. inches long, which can usually be found in Middle Eastern and Asian stores.

SERVES 6 2 to 3 tablespoons vegetable oil pound lean ground beef or lambsalt and black pepper1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice cup pine nuts6 small eggplants (weighing about 1 pounds)2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped2 teaspoons sugar1 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.ses (optional)2 pita breads2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature2 tablespoons tahini (optional)2 garlic cloves (optional) For the eggplant stuffing, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a frying pan. Put in the meat and add the salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice. Cook over medium-high heat, crushing the meat with a fork and turning it over, for about 5 to 8 minutes, until it has changed color and the liquid has evaporated.

In another small frying pan, fry the pine nuts in a drop of oil, shaking the pan to brown them slightly all over. Stir half the pine nuts into the meat.

Wash the eggplants, cut a slice off at the stem end, and, using an apple corer, hollow out the flesh. Insert the corer, digging it in while gently turning it, then give a sharp, quick twist as you reach near the end, and pull out the flesh. Repeat this action with the corer, or sc.r.a.pe the sides with a sharp knife to leave a sh.e.l.l with walls about inch thick, being careful not to pierce the skin. Fill the cavities with the meat and pine nut mixture.

Put the tomatoes in a wide pan with the sugar, a little salt and pepper, and, if you like, the pomegranate mola.s.ses. Stir well and simmer for 5 minutes. Put in the eggplants and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes, or until the eggplants are very soft, turning them over once.

Open out the pita breads by cutting around them with scissors or a serrated knife, and toast them under the broiler until they are crisp and lightly browned. Mix the yogurt with the tahini and garlic, if using.

Just before serving, a.s.semble the different components in a wide and deep serving dish. Break the toasted pita breads into small pieces with your hands into the bottom of the dish. Take the eggplants out of the tomato sauce and pour the sauce over the toast, which will become soft and swollen. Pour the yogurt all over the sauce, and arrange the stuffed eggplants on top. Finally, sprinkle with the remaining pine nuts.

NOTE You can use up the extracted eggplant flesh for a salad or an omelette. So that it does not discolor, put it in a bowl of water with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Then drain and saute in olive oil before dressing with lemon juice or mixing with eggs to make an omelette.

STUFFED ZUCCHINI in in TOMATO SAUCE TOMATO SAUCE Koussa Mahshi Bi Banadoura This makes a satisfying homely meal and is especially good when served with Vermicelli Rice (see page 304 304 ). ).

SERVES 4 TO 6 2 pounds small zucchini (4 to 4 inches long)FOR THE FILLING5 ounces lean ground lamb cup short-grain or risotto rice salt and pepper teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice1 large onion, chopped2 tablespoons sunflower oil3 garlic cloves, crushed2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped salt and black pepper1 tablespoon tomato paste1 to 2 teaspoons sugar1 to 1 lemons1 teaspoon crushed, dried mint Wash the zucchini, slice off the stem ends, and shave off the brown skin on the other ends. With a long apple corer, make a hole at the stem end of each vegetable and scoop out the flesh, being careful not to break the skin, or to break through the other end, which must remain closed. This is done by digging in while gently turning the corer, then giving a sharp, quick twist as it reaches near the end, before pulling out the flesh. It is a skill that is acquired with a little practice. With the corer or a small, sharp knife, cut out a little more of the flesh, if necessary, but the sh.e.l.l must be left intact.

Put the filling ingredients together in a bowl and knead well by hand until thoroughly blended. Fill each zucchini, packing in the filling to within inch of the end to allow for the expansion of the rice.

For the sauce, fry the onion in the sunflower oil until golden. Use a pan that will hold the zucchini in one or two whole layers. Add the garlic and stir until the aroma rises, then add the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the tomato paste, sugar, and juice of half a lemon.

Place the stuffed zucchini side by side in one or two layers in the sauce. Add water, if necessary, to cover them and simmer very gently, with the lid on, over low heat, for about 45 minutes, or until the zucchini are soft.

Carefully lift the zucchini out of the pan and place them on a serving dish. Stir the mint and the juice of the remaining lemon into the sauce, and continue cooking for a moment or two, then pour over the zucchini.

NOTE Use the extracted zucchini flesh for a salad: Simmer it in a little water for a minute or two, drain, and dress it with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

STUFFED ZUCCHINI in in YOGURT SAUCE YOGURT SAUCE Koussa Mahshi Bi Laban Prepare the stuffed zucchini as in the recipe above and arrange them in a wide pan. Only just cover with lamb or chicken stock (use 1 bouillon cubes), and simmer gently, covered, for about 25 minutes, until the water is absorbed and the zucchini are nearly done.

In another saucepan, beat 4 cups of plain whole-milk yogurt with a little salt until it is liquid. Mix 1 tablespoon cornstarch with 2 to 3 tablespoons water to make a creamy paste, add it to the yogurt, and beat well. This will stabilize the yogurt and prevent it from curdling when it is cooked. Bring to the boil slowly over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon in one direction only in one direction only (this is important). Reduce the heat as low as possible and let the yogurt barely simmer, (this is important). Reduce the heat as low as possible and let the yogurt barely simmer, uncovered uncovered (this, too, is supposed to be important), for about 10 minutes, until it has thickened. (this, too, is supposed to be important), for about 10 minutes, until it has thickened.

Pour the yogurt over the zucchini and simmer for about 20 minutes. Before serving, crush 3 garlic cloves with a little salt, add 2 teaspoons dried, crushed mint, and mix well. Fry this mixture in 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter for moments only and stir into the yogurt.

VERMICELLI RICE Roz Bil s.h.a.ghrieh Roz bil s.h.a.ghrieh is the everyday rice that accompanies stews, stuffed vegetables, and grills in Lebanon. People also eat it by itself with yogurt poured over. The short-grain rice from Egypt is the traditional rice used, but today basmati is preferred. Middle Eastern stores sell Italian "cut" vermicelli called is the everyday rice that accompanies stews, stuffed vegetables, and grills in Lebanon. People also eat it by itself with yogurt poured over. The short-grain rice from Egypt is the traditional rice used, but today basmati is preferred. Middle Eastern stores sell Italian "cut" vermicelli called filini filini and similar Turkish Sehriye, but otherwise you can buy vermicelli nests and break them in your hands into small and similar Turkish Sehriye, but otherwise you can buy vermicelli nests and break them in your hands into small - - inch pieces. inch pieces.

SERVES 4 serves 4 1 cups basmati rice2/3 cup filini filini or broken vermicelli nests or broken vermicelli nests2 tablespoons b.u.t.terabout 2 cups boiling watersalt Wash the rice briefly in cold water, pour into a strainer and then rinse under cold running water, and drain. Toast the filini filini, or broken vermicelli, in a dry frying pan over medium heat or in a tray under the broiler until they are lightly browned, stirring so that they brown evenly. Watch them, as they brown very quickly.

Heat the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan over medium heat, add the rice, and stir until the grains are coated. Pour in the boiling water, add the browned vermicelli and some salt, and stir well. Simmer, covered, over low heat until the rice is tender and the water absorbed. Some brands of basmati now cook in only 10 minutes while others can take up to 20 minutes, so be sure to read the instructions on the package and be ready to turn off the heat after 10 minutes.

STUFFED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS with with MEAT MEAT and and PINE NUTS PINE NUTS Ardishawki Mahshi Look for the frozen artichoke bottoms-a flat cup variety from Egypt-in Middle Eastern stores. There are about 9 9 in a in a 14- 14- ounce package. Serve the dish hot with Vermicelli Rice (page ounce package. Serve the dish hot with Vermicelli Rice (page 304 304 ). ).

SERVES 4 1 large onion, chopped3 tablespoons sunflower oil11 ounces ground lamb or beefsalt and black pepper teaspoon ground allspice cup pine nuts14 ounces frozen artichoke bottoms, defrosted1 tablespoon flourjuice of lemon Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil until golden. Add the meat, salt, pepper, and allspice and stir, turning the meat over and crushing it with a fork until it changes color. In a small pan, fry the pine nuts in the remaining oil, stirring, until lightly colored, and add them to the meat.

Place the artichoke bottoms side by side in a shallow baking dish and fill them with the meat mixture. Mix the flour with lemon juice and blend well, then gradually stir in about cup water, and pour into the dish. Cover with foil and bake in an oven pre-heated to 350F for 25 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender.

" NEW-STYLE " SHISH BARAK SHISH BARAK Traditional shish barak shish barak are tiny tortellini-like pies with a meat filling that are first baked and then cooked in a yogurt sauce. This "new-style" version of large, individual, coiled pies is inspired by Kamal Mouzawak (for his vegetarian alternative, see the variation). It is an exciting mix of flavors, textures, and temperatures and makes a beautiful presentation. The pastry used in Lebanon are tiny tortellini-like pies with a meat filling that are first baked and then cooked in a yogurt sauce. This "new-style" version of large, individual, coiled pies is inspired by Kamal Mouzawak (for his vegetarian alternative, see the variation). It is an exciting mix of flavors, textures, and temperatures and makes a beautiful presentation. The pastry used in Lebanon, rakakat, is different from fillo-it is softer and more pliable, like a paper-thin pancake-but fillo will do very well. Use the large sheets measuring about is different from fillo-it is softer and more pliable, like a paper-thin pancake-but fillo will do very well. Use the large sheets measuring about 19 19 [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches that are normally sold frozen; see page inches that are normally sold frozen; see page 9 9 for hints on using fillo. for hints on using fillo.

SERVES 12 A FIRST COURSE, 6 AS A MAIN DISH AS FOR THE FILLING 2 large onions, chopped 3 tablespoons sunflower oil1 pound lean ground lambsalt and black pepper2 teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground nutmeg1 to 2 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.ses cup pine nutsFOR THE PASTRY6 sheets of fillo (about 6 ounces) stick (6 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, meltedFOR THE SAUCE AND GARNISH4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature salt2 to 3 cloves garlic, crushed (optional)4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon crushed, dried mint For the filling, fry the onions in the oil until golden, stirring occasionally. Add the ground meat, salt and pepper, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg. The filling needs to be well seasoned and strongly flavored as it is balanced with the fillo pastry and yogurt, which are bland. Stir, turning over the meat and crushing it to break up any lumps, until it changes color and the juices have been absorbed. Then stir in the pomegranate mola.s.ses and cook 1 to 2 minutes more. In a small pan, fry the pine nuts in a drop of oil, stirring, for moments only, until they just begin to color. Stir them into the meat and let it cool.

Cut the sheets of fillo in half, into 2 rectangles that measure about 12 inches [.dotmath] 9 inches, and pile them on top of each other with the long sides nearest to you. Brush the top sheet with melted b.u.t.ter. Put a line of filling (about 3 to 4 tablespoons) along the long edge, to reach to about inch from either end, and roll up into a long thin roll. Then shape the roll into a tight coil, creasing it a little as you do, so that the pastry does not tear, and place it on a piece of foil (you do not need to grease it) on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining sheets of fillo and the filling, placing the coils next to each other so that they are held tight. Brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter.