About 30 minutes before you are ready to serve, bake the pies in an oven preheated to 400F for about 25 minutes, until golden.

For the sauce, beat the yogurt with a little salt and the garlic, if using. For the garnish, mix the olive oil and the dried mint.

Serve the pies as they come out of the oven. Pour about 3 tablespoons yogurt over each, and drizzle a little of the minty olive oil (about a teaspoon) over the top.

VARIATION For Kamal's vegetarian filling, fry 4 large sliced onions in 4 tablespoons oil until brown. Add 1 cup pine nuts, salt, pepper, 3 teaspoons of ground mixed spices (cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, c.u.min), and 1 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.ses.

GROUND MEAT KEBAB Kafta Meshwiyeh The ground meat for this kebab-I usually buy shoulder of lamb-should have a good amount of fat so that it remains moist and juicy. Most of it will melt away in the heat of the grill. You will need skewers with a thick, wide blade to hold the meat and prevent it from rolling around. Alternatively, it is easier and equally good to shape the meat into burgers. Serve them with Arab flat breads or the very thin, Lebanese markouk markouk (see page (see page 245 245 ), and accompany them with a salad and a choice of ), and accompany them with a salad and a choice of mezze. mezze.

SERVES 4 2 medium onions to 2/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley1 pounds lamb, taken from the shoulder with some fatsalt and black pepper Grate or finely chop the onion in the food processor, drain, and turn it into a bowl. Add the chopped parsley to the onion. Cut the meat into chunks, then blend it in the food processor to a soft paste, adding salt and pepper. Mix the meat paste with the parsley and onion, and knead with your hand until well blended.

Divide the meat into 8 b.a.l.l.s and wrap each one around a skewer, pressing it firmly so that it holds together in a long, flat, sausage shape. Alternatively, flatten the b.a.l.l.s into burgers. Place the skewers, or burgers, on the oiled grill of a barbecue, over the embers of a charcoal fire or on a rack under the broiler, and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, turning them over once, until browned outside but still pink inside.

Kafta Yogurtliya Using the recipe above, roll the meat into little b.a.l.l.s the size of a large walnut. Saute in batches in a little oil in a large frying pan, turning them until they are browned all over but still a little pink inside. You can do this in advance, if you wish, and heat them through, covered with foil, in the oven when you are ready to serve.

Open out a pita, toast it under the broiler, and break it into small pieces at the bottom of a serving dish. Just before serving, pour 4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, which should be at room temperature, over the toast and drop the meatb.a.l.l.s on top. Fry 3 tablespoons pine nuts very briefly in stick (2 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter and sprinkle them over the dish with their b.u.t.ter.

MEATb.a.l.l.s with with PINE NUTS PINE NUTS in in TOMATO SAUCE TOMATO SAUCE Daoud Basha The dish takes its name from the governor who administered Mount Lebanon between 1861 1861 and and 1868 1868 in Ottoman times. Serve it with plain or Vermicelli Rice (page in Ottoman times. Serve it with plain or Vermicelli Rice (page 304 304 ). ).

SERVES 6 2 medium onions1 pounds lean ground lambsalt and pepper1 teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice2/3 cup pine nutsvegetable oil2 pounds tomatoes, peeled or not2 teaspoons sugar3 garlic cloves, crushed (optional) Grate or finely chop the onions in the food processor, drain, and turn them into a bowl. Add the ground lamb with salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, and work into a paste with your hands. Roll the paste into small walnut-size b.a.l.l.s. Make a hole in each ball with your finger, stuff the cavity with a few pine nuts, and close the hole. Alternatively, and more easily, work the pine nuts into the meat paste, then roll it into b.a.l.l.s.

Put a little oil in a soup plate and roll the meatb.a.l.l.s in it. Put them in a baking dish and bake in an oven preheated to 400F for 15 to 20 minutes, until their color changes.

For the sauce, cut up the tomatoes and liquefy them in the food processor or blender. Add a little salt and pepper, the sugar, and garlic, if using, and pour over the meatb.a.l.l.s. Bake them for another 35 minutes, turning the meatb.a.l.l.s over once.

VARIATION Add the juice of 1 lemon and a good pinch of chili flakes to the sauce.

BAKED KIBBEH with KIBBEH with ONION ONION and and PINE NUT TOPPING PINE NUT TOPPING Kibbeh Saniyeh Kibbeh forms a major part of the national dishes of Lebanon. There are countless versions, from a raw meat paste to little, oval sh.e.l.ls stuffed with a ground meat filling and deep-fried or cooked in yogurt or bitter orange juice, as well as vegetarian forms a major part of the national dishes of Lebanon. There are countless versions, from a raw meat paste to little, oval sh.e.l.ls stuffed with a ground meat filling and deep-fried or cooked in yogurt or bitter orange juice, as well as vegetarian kibbeh kibbeh with pumpkin or potato, and one with fish-each version having a number of regional variations. One thing they all have in common is bulgur with pumpkin or potato, and one with fish-each version having a number of regional variations. One thing they all have in common is bulgur (burghul (burghul in Lebanon). Since most are labor-intensive and require skill and application, they are not the kind of thing you undertake if you are not part of the culture. in Lebanon). Since most are labor-intensive and require skill and application, they are not the kind of thing you undertake if you are not part of the culture.So I was very happy to discover a traditional kibbeh kibbeh that was truly delightful and relatively easy, with only one layer of that was truly delightful and relatively easy, with only one layer of kibbeh kibbeh and a flavorsome onion and pine nut topping. I found it in a little restaurant in Beirut called Kibbet Zaman (Yesterday's Kibbeh). It can be served hot or cold (I prefer it hot) as a main dish or cut up small as a and a flavorsome onion and pine nut topping. I found it in a little restaurant in Beirut called Kibbet Zaman (Yesterday's Kibbeh). It can be served hot or cold (I prefer it hot) as a main dish or cut up small as a mezze. mezze. It is really worth doing-I guarantee you will surprise your guests. Accompany it with It is really worth doing-I guarantee you will surprise your guests. Accompany it with baba ghanouj baba ghanouj (page (page 248 248 ) ), hummus (page (page 249 249 ), and a salad. ), and a salad.

SERVES 6 FOR THE KIBBEH KIBBEH base base2/3 cup fine-ground bulgur1 medium onion, cut in quarters1 pound lean, boneless leg of lamb teaspoon saltblack pepper1 teaspoon cinnamon2 tablespoons vegetable oilFOR THE TOPPING1 pound onions, sliced3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil to 1/3 cup pine nutssalt and black pepper teaspoon ground cinnamonpinch of ground allspice to 1 tablespoon pomegranate mola.s.ses (optional) For the kibbeh kibbeh base, rinse the bulgur in a fine sieve under cold running water and drain well. Puree the onion in the food processor. Add the meat, salt, pepper, and cinnamon and blend to a paste. Add the bulgur and blend to a smooth, soft paste. base, rinse the bulgur in a fine sieve under cold running water and drain well. Puree the onion in the food processor. Add the meat, salt, pepper, and cinnamon and blend to a paste. Add the bulgur and blend to a smooth, soft paste.

With your hand, press the paste into the bottom of an oiled, round, shallow baking dish or tart dish, about 11 inches in diameter. Flatten and smooth the top and rub with 2 tablespoons oil. With a pointed knife, cut the contents into 6 wedges through the center, and run the knife round the edges of the dish. Bake in an oven preheated to 375F for about 30 minutes, until browned.

While the kibbeh kibbeh base is baking, prepare the topping. Fry the sliced onions in the olive oil until they are golden brown, stirring often. Add the pine nuts and stir until lightly colored. Add a little salt and pepper, the cinnamon, and allspice and, if you like a slightly sweet-and-sour flavor (I do), the pomegranate mola.s.ses. Cook, stirring for a minute or so. base is baking, prepare the topping. Fry the sliced onions in the olive oil until they are golden brown, stirring often. Add the pine nuts and stir until lightly colored. Add a little salt and pepper, the cinnamon, and allspice and, if you like a slightly sweet-and-sour flavor (I do), the pomegranate mola.s.ses. Cook, stirring for a minute or so.

Serve the kibbeh kibbeh with the topping spread over the top. with the topping spread over the top.

VARIATION Instead of pine nuts, use 2/3 cup sh.e.l.led walnuts, broken into pieces and, if you like, 2 tablespoons raisins soaked in water for 15 minutes and drained. (If you are using raisins, omit the pomegranate mola.s.ses.) Add 1 tablespoon sumac (see page 7) to the onion topping and omit the pomegranate mola.s.ses.

LAMB STEW with with VINEGAR VINEGAR and and EGGPLANTS EGGPLANTS Lahma Bi Khal This dish does not look very nice-it is a muddy brown-but the flavors are deliciously rich and strong, and the meat is meltingly tender. Serve it with plain or Vermicelli Rice (page 304 304 ). ).

SERVES 6 TO 8 1 pound baby onions or shallots2 pounds boned shoulder of lambsunflower oil8 whole garlic clovessalt and pepper1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice1 teaspoon sugar3 medium eggplants4 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar1 tablespoon crushed, dried mint To peel the baby onions or shallots, drop them in boiling water and poach for 5 minutes to loosen the skins. Drain and peel them while still warm.

Cut the meat into 8 large pieces and trim off only some of the fat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large pan, put in the meat, and turn to brown it all over, then lift it out. It will have released quite a bit of fat. Fry the baby onions or shallots and the whole cloves of garlic in the fat, stirring until golden. Lift them out and set aside.

Pour off the fat, and return the meat to the pan. Cover with water bring to the boil, and remove the sc.u.m. Add the garlic, salt, pepper, cinnamon, allspice, and sugar. Simmer, covered, for about 1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water, as necessary, to keep it covered.

Cut the eggplants into -inch-thick rounds. Brush them with oil and cook them under the preheated broiler or in a grill pan, turning them over once, until browned; they do not need to be cooked through.

Put the onions in with the meat, add the vinegar and mint, and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the eggplants and cook for a further 20 minutes.

LAMB SHANKS COOKED in in YOGURT YOGURT Laban Ummo The name of this dish, which means "his mother's milk," implies that the meat of a young animal is cooked in its own mother's milk. It can be made with small lamb shanks or with knuckle of veal (os...o...b..co (os...o...b..co ) or slightly fatty, cubed meat. I have used lamb shanks. Serve it with plain or Vermicelli Rice (page ) or slightly fatty, cubed meat. I have used lamb shanks. Serve it with plain or Vermicelli Rice (page 304 304 ). The yogurt makes a wonderful, soupy sauce-so provide spoons, too. ). The yogurt makes a wonderful, soupy sauce-so provide spoons, too.

SERVES 6 6 lamb shanks (each weighing 11 to 14 ounces)salt and white pepper1 pound shallots or baby onions8 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 tablespoons cornstarch3 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)To serve: crushed, dried mint Put the lamb shanks in a large pan and cover them with water. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and add salt and pepper. Cook them with the lid on for 2 hours, adding water to keep them covered. Peel the shallots or baby onions: drop them in boiling water and blanch them for 5 minutes to loosen the skins, then drain and peel them while still warm. Add them to the meat and cook for 30 minutes more, until they are soft and the meat is so tender that it falls off the bone.

You need to prepare or stabilize the yogurt to prevent it from curdling during cooking. Pour it into a large saucepan and beat well until it is liquid. Mix the cornstarch to a light paste with 3 to 4 tablespoons water and add this to the yogurt, beating vigorously until well mixed. Now bring the yogurt to the boil slowly, stirring constantly in one direction only in one direction only, and then reduce the heat to as low as possible and let it barely simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. Do not cover the pan with a lid: they say that a drop of steam falling back into the yogurt could ruin it. I am not sure that is true.

Drain the cooked shanks-you can remove the bones or not, as you wish-and the onions and add them to the yogurt. Stir in a little salt and the garlic, if using, and simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes.

When serving, pa.s.s around a little bowl of dried mint so people can stir a teaspoonful or so into their sauce, if they wish.

ROAST LAMB with with RICE, GROUND MEAT, RICE, GROUND MEAT, and and NUTS NUTS Ouzi A central part of every grand Arab feast is lamb-shoulder or leg-cooked a la cuillere a la cuillere (to such tenderness that you can eat it "with a spoon"), accompanied by rice with ground meat and nuts. (to such tenderness that you can eat it "with a spoon"), accompanied by rice with ground meat and nuts.This recipe comes from the caterer n.a.z.ira Bitar, who is the queen of wedding cakes all over the Arab world. She prepared a banquet in Stockholm that was hosted by the King of Jordan for King Carl Gustav and Queen Silvia.

SERVES 6 TO 8 1 leg of lamb (weighing about 5 pounds) or 2 shoulders1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground cardamomsalt and black pepper2 tablespoons sunflower oil1 onion, cut in quarters1 head of garlic, cut in halfFOR THE RICE2 cups basmati or long-grain rice1 large onion, chopped3 tablespoons sunflower oil pound ground beefsalt and black pepper1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon ground cloves4 cups lamb or chicken stock (use 2 bouillon cubes)1/3 cup sliced almonds1/3 cup pistachios1/3 cup pine nuts Rub the leg of lamb all over with the spices, salt, pepper, and oil. Place it in a large roasting pan and put it into an oven preheated to 425F. After 20 minutes, take the pan out of the oven, pour in 4 cups water, and add the onion and garlic. Cover the meat with a large sheet of foil and put it back in the oven. Lower the heat to 300F, and cook for 3 hours.

While the meat is cooking, prepare the rice. If using basmati, wash the rice in cold water, rinse in a strainer under cold running water, and drain. In a large pan, fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil until it is soft and beginning to color. Add the ground beef and cook, stirring, turning it over and crushing it with a fork to break up any lumps, until it has changed color. Add salt and pepper and all the spices: cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves. Stir well and add the rice, then stir again.

Pour in the boiling stock, mix well, and simmer, covered, for about 10 to 20 minutes until the rice is tender. (Some brands that claim not to be parboiled or precooked now take as little as 8 to 10 minutes, so read the information on the package.) Add a little stock or water if it becomes too dry. Drain and keep it on the side until you are ready to serve.

Fry the almonds, pistachios, and pine nuts separately in the remaining oil until they just begin to color. When the leg of lamb is ready, place it on a serving dish with the rice. You can cut the meat off the bone into slices, if you wish. Sprinkle the fried nuts all over the rice. Serve the flavorsome meat broth produced at the bottom of the roasting pan as a sauce. Heat it through and serve it in a jug, first pouring off as much of the fat from the top as you can.

Desserts In Beirut and other cities in Lebanon, people do not make any of their pastries at home- they buy them-apart from those attached to religious festivals, and even then, they make them only during those festivals. Pastry making is one of the legendary trades of the country and the great pastry capital of Lebanon is the city of Tripoli. I was allowed into the kitchens of one of the celebrated pastry-makers there, Abdul Rahman Hallab and Sons, where I saw dozens of different types of pastries being made. I was also taken by a local man, Abdel Karim al Chaar (a friend of the friends who took me to Tripoli) around the souk souks of the old city to taste yet more pastries made by small artisans. Abdel Karim is a famous singer, who sings verses from the Koran in mosques and holds concerts of the cla.s.sic Arab-Andalusian mode called tarab. tarab. He came with his daughter Ranine, who was, at that moment, a finalist in the inter-Arab singing compet.i.tion He came with his daughter Ranine, who was, at that moment, a finalist in the inter-Arab singing compet.i.tion Superstar Superstar on Future TV. Abdel Karim was greeted by all the old men in the on Future TV. Abdel Karim was greeted by all the old men in the souk souk while young girls with headscarves cl.u.s.tered around Ranine and a.s.sured her that they would be voting for her. And we got special treatment in the pastry shops. while young girls with headscarves cl.u.s.tered around Ranine and a.s.sured her that they would be voting for her. And we got special treatment in the pastry shops.

In the center of the khan khan that specialized in perfumed soaps we saw rose water, that specialized in perfumed soaps we saw rose water, mai ward mai ward, and orange blossom water, mai zahr mai zahr, being made in a row of primitive alembics (see pages 6 and 7). The waters lend a delicate perfume to many Lebanese puddings and pastries. Here, even out in the open, the perfume was intoxicating.

In Beirut, I went to see a pastry-maker called n.a.z.ira Bitar whose wedding cakes are famous all over the Arab world. She showed me photograph alb.u.ms of her fantastically elaborate cakes with edible flowers, birds, b.u.t.terflies, fruits, sh.e.l.ls, and jewels. Her latest are chandeliers that reach from the ceiling to the floor.

MILK PUDDING Muhallabiya Muhallabiya is the most popular Lebanese dessert. In restaurants it is usually made with cornstarch. At home, ground rice or a mixture of both is used. It is a special refinement to pour a little honey syrup over the top and to garnish it with a large amount of chopped nuts. It is very easy to make, but it needs attention and patience during the long stirring. is the most popular Lebanese dessert. In restaurants it is usually made with cornstarch. At home, ground rice or a mixture of both is used. It is a special refinement to pour a little honey syrup over the top and to garnish it with a large amount of chopped nuts. It is very easy to make, but it needs attention and patience during the long stirring.

SERVES 6 2 tablespoons cornstarch cup ground rice4 cups milk cup sugar, or more to taste 1 tablespoon orange blossom water (see page 6)1 tablespoons rose water (see page 7)3 tablespoons clear honey1/3 cup blanched almonds, coa.r.s.ely chopped1/3 cup pistachio nuts, coa.r.s.ely chopped Mix the cornstarch and ground rice with about cup cold milk and beat well, making sure that you break up any small lumps. Bring the rest of the milk to the boil in a large, preferably nonstick, pan. Add the cornstarch and ground rice mixture, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon.

Keep over low heat, and stir constantly, until you feel a slight resistance. Continue to cook gently over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the cream thickens further, stirring occasionally. Be very careful not to sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan; the cream burns slightly at the bottom, and if it is sc.r.a.ped it will give a burnt taste to the pudding. Add the sugar toward the end.

Stir in the orange blossom water and 1 tablespoon rose water, and cook a few moments more. Let the cream cool a little before pouring into a gla.s.s serving bowl. Let it cool, then chill in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap.

When the pudding is cold, prepare a honey syrup in a small pan by bringing to the boil the honey with about cup water. Stir well and add the remaining tablespoon of rose water. Let it cool and pour over the cold, firmed cream; it will seep in a little.

Serve sprinkled with a pattern of chopped almonds and pistachios.

VARIATION Instead of garnishing with chopped nuts, serve topped with rose petal jam, which is available from Middle Eastern stores.

MILK ICE CREAM with with GUM MASTIC GUM MASTIC and and ROSE WATER ROSE WATER Bouza Bi Halib A brilliant white milk ice cream with a chewy texture made with sahlab sahlab (called (called salep salep in Turkey), the ground-up root tuber of a member of the orchid family, is very difficult to make successfully at home, so here is a modern version that I also love. It is without in Turkey), the ground-up root tuber of a member of the orchid family, is very difficult to make successfully at home, so here is a modern version that I also love. It is without sahlab, sahlab, so not chewy, but the traditional flavorings of mastic and rose water give it a special appeal. so not chewy, but the traditional flavorings of mastic and rose water give it a special appeal.You should pound, then grind the tiny lumps of gum mastic (see page 6 6 ) with a teaspoon of sugar to a fine powder with a pestle and mortar (or use a spice grinder). Use very little as otherwise the taste can be quite unpleasant. ) with a teaspoon of sugar to a fine powder with a pestle and mortar (or use a spice grinder). Use very little as otherwise the taste can be quite unpleasant.

SERVES 4 TO 6 4 egg yolks cup sugar 1 cups light cream1 to 2 tablespoons rose water, to taste teaspoon pulverized gum mastic1 cups heavy cream Beat the egg yolks with the sugar to a thick, pale cream in a bowl. Bring the light cream to the boil and gradually pour over the yolk mixture, beating all the time.

Put the bowl in a pan of boiling water or in the top part of a double boiler, and stir constantly until the mixture thickens into a custard. Add the rose water, take it off the heat, and sprinkle the gum mastic over the whole surface (if it falls in one place it sticks together in a lump) and stir it in vigorously. Let cool.

Beat the heavy cream until firm and fold this into the cooled custard.

Pour the mixture into a mold lined with plastic wrap and cover with more plastic wrap. Freeze overnight. Take out of the freezer 5 to 10 minutes before serving, remove the plastic wrap, and turn the ice cream out of its mold.

RICE PUDDING with with APRICOT COMPOTE APRICOT COMPOTE Roz Bi Halib Wal Mish Mish Rice pudding is a homely pudding. Topped by a fruit compote such as stewed apricots, it becomes elegant, dinner-party fare. It is also good served with rose petal jam, which you can buy in Middle Eastern stores. Gum mastic (see recipe on page 321 321 ) gives the pudding an intriguing, and to me, very delicious flavor, but it is optional. Serve the pudding cold. ) gives the pudding an intriguing, and to me, very delicious flavor, but it is optional. Serve the pudding cold.

SERVES 6 1 cup short-grain or risotto rice1 cups water4 cups milk cup sugar, or to taste2 tablespoons orange blossom or rose water (see pages 6 and 7) teaspoon pulverized gum mastic (optional) (see page 6)APRICOT COMPOTE2 pounds apricots1 cups water cup sugar1 lemon Boil the rice in the water for 8 minutes, or until the water is absorbed. Add the milk and simmer over very low heat for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to make sure that the bottom does not stick and burn.

When the rice is very soft and the milk not entirely absorbed, add the sugar and stir until dissolved. If it is a bit dry, add a little more milk. Add the orange blossom or rose water, or a mix of the two, and cook for a minute longer. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the mastic, if using, and stir very well before pouring into a serving bowl. There should still be quite a bit of liquid. It will be absorbed as the pudding cools; the result should be creamy. Pour the pudding into a wide serving dish and chill in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap.

For the apricot compote, wash the apricots, cut them in half, and remove the pits. Put them in a large heavy-bottomed pan with the water, sugar, and lemon juice. Cook, covered, over low heat for 10 minutes, or until the apricots fall apart. Let the fruit cool, then chill it in the refrigerator before spreading it over the rice pudding.

KATAIFI with CREAM FILLING CREAM FILLING Osmaliyah Bil Ashta Osmaliyah has been known for generations in my family in Egypt as has been known for generations in my family in Egypt as konafa konafa and I have featured it before. I include it here again because, of all the Lebanese pastries that are good to make at home and to serve at a dinner party, this is one of the best; it is my mother's recipe. It is meant to be served hot but it is also good cold. and I have featured it before. I include it here again because, of all the Lebanese pastries that are good to make at home and to serve at a dinner party, this is one of the best; it is my mother's recipe. It is meant to be served hot but it is also good cold.You can buy the soft white vermicelli-like dough frozen in Lebanese, Turkish, and Greek stores. In Lebanon, it is called knafe knafe but in America it is sold by its Greek name but in America it is sold by its Greek name, kataifi , usually in , usually in 1- 1- pound packages; it should be defrosted for pound packages; it should be defrosted for 2 2 to to 3 3 hours. The quant.i.ties below will make one large pastry to serve hours. The quant.i.ties below will make one large pastry to serve 10 10, but you can also make two half the size-one to serve fewer people and one to put in the freezer to bake at a later date. It freezes well uncooked. but you can also make two half the size-one to serve fewer people and one to put in the freezer to bake at a later date. It freezes well uncooked.

SERVES 10 FOR THE SYRUP2 cups sugar1 cups water1 tablespoon lemon juice2 tablespoons orange blossom water (see page 6)FOR THE CREAM FILLING cup rice flour4 cups milk cup heavy cream4 tablespoons sugarFOR THE PASTRY1 pound kataifi kataifi ( (knafe) pastry, defrosted2 sticks or pound unsalted b.u.t.ter, meltedTo garnish: 2/3 cup pistachios, chopped finely Make the syrup first. Boil the sugar with the water and lemon juice over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes, until it is just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Another way to test it is to pour a drop onto a cold plate, and if it does not spread out like water, it is ready. Stir in the orange blossom water and cook a moment more. Let it cool and then chill in the refrigerator. (If you have overcooked the syrup and it becomes too thick to pour when it is cold, you can rescue it by adding a little water and bringing it to the boil again.) For the filling, mix the rice flour with enough of the cold milk to make a smooth, creamy paste. Bring the rest of the milk with the cream to the boil, preferably in a non-stick pan (this stops the cream sticking at the bottom and burning). Add the rice flour paste, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon. Leave it on very low heat and continue to stir constantly for 15 to 20 minutes, until the mixture is quite thick, being careful not to sc.r.a.pe any burnt bits from the bottom of the pan. Then add the cream and sugar and stir well.

Put the kataifi kataifi pastry in a large bowl. With your fingers, pull out and separate the strands as much as possible. Melt the b.u.t.ter and when it has cooled slightly, pour it over the pastry and work it in very thoroughly with your fingers, pulling out and separating the strands and turning them over so that they do not stick together and are entirely coated with b.u.t.ter. pastry in a large bowl. With your fingers, pull out and separate the strands as much as possible. Melt the b.u.t.ter and when it has cooled slightly, pour it over the pastry and work it in very thoroughly with your fingers, pulling out and separating the strands and turning them over so that they do not stick together and are entirely coated with b.u.t.ter.

Spread half the pastry on the bottom of a large round pie pan, measuring 11 to 12 inches in diameter. Spread the cream filling over it evenly and cover with the rest of the pastry. Press down firmly and flatten it with the palm of your hand. Bake in an oven pre-heated to 350F for about 45 minutes. Some like to brown the bottom, which comes out on top when the pastry is turned out, by running it over heat on the stove top for a brief moment only. Others prefer the pastry to remain pale.

Just before serving, run a sharp knife around the edges of the osmaliyah osmaliyah to loosen the sides, and turn it out onto a large serving dish. Pour the cold syrup all over the hot pastry and sprinkle the top lavishly with the chopped pistachios. to loosen the sides, and turn it out onto a large serving dish. Pour the cold syrup all over the hot pastry and sprinkle the top lavishly with the chopped pistachios.

Alternatively, you can pour only half the syrup over the pastry and pa.s.s the rest around in a jug for everyone to help themselves to more, if they wish.

OSMALIYAH with CHEESE FILLING CHEESE FILLING Osmaliyah Bil Jibne This is another wonderful dessert, which I strongly recommend. It is quicker and easier to make than the previous one with cream. Make the pastry as in the recipe on page 324, but instead of the cream filling, use 1 pound mozzarella cheese blended in the food processor with pound ricotta, 2 tablespoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons orange blossom water. Bake as above and pour the cold syrup over the hot pastry as it comes out of the oven, just before serving. Serve hot, or at least warm, while the cheese is soft.

Bellawrieh This is made with kataifi kataifi pastry in the same way as the recipe for pastry in the same way as the recipe for Kataifi Kataifi with a Cream Filling (see page 324). Instead of the cream filling, use 1 pound or 3 cups whole pistachios or chopped walnuts mixed with a few tablespoons of the sugar syrup to bind them together. Serve this pastry cold. with a Cream Filling (see page 324). Instead of the cream filling, use 1 pound or 3 cups whole pistachios or chopped walnuts mixed with a few tablespoons of the sugar syrup to bind them together. Serve this pastry cold.

PANCAKES STUFFED with with WALNUTS WALNUTS Atayef Bil Jawz To make these spongy pancakes stuffed with walnuts and dipped in syrup takes time (and I should warn you that they are fattening) but they are heavenly and when you have made them more than once, you will find them not too difficult. The amount of syrup is more than you need, but it is good to serve separately as well, in case anyone would like to pour a little more on their pastry.

MAKES ABOUT 20 PANCAKES FOR THE BATTER1 teaspoon active dry yeast1 teaspoon sugar1 cups lukewarm water11/3 cups plain floursunflower or vegetable oil, for fryingFOR THE SYRUP2 cups sugar2 cups water1 tablespoon lemon juice1 to 2 tablespoons orange blossom or rose water (see pages 6 and 7)FOR THE FILLING1 cups walnuts, chopped finely cup sugar1 teaspoons rose water For the batter, dissolve the yeast with the sugar in about cup of the warm water. Let it stand for 10 minutes, or until it froths. Put the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast mixture and the remaining water gradually, beating vigorously, to make a creamy, lump-free batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for about 2 hours, until the batter rises and becomes bubbly and elastic.

To make the syrup, bring the sugar and water to the boil in a pan with the lemon juice and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Then stir in the orange blossom or rose water and simmer for a few seconds more. Allow to cool; then chill in the refrigerator.

For the filling, mix together the walnuts, sugar, and rose water.

When the batter is ready, beat it again vigorously. Using a piece of paper towel, rub a nonstick frying pan with oil, ensuring it is thoroughly greased with a very thin film of oil. Heat the frying pan until it is very hot, then reduce the heat and keep it at medium.

In batches of 3, pour one-third of a ladle (about 2 tablespoons) of batter into the pan. Spread the batter a little with the back of a fork (it does not spread by itself) so that it becomes a round, 3 to 4 inches in diameter, or an oval. Cook one side of the pancake only. The other side must remain uncooked and moist so that its edges will stick together. When the pancakes lose their whiteness and tiny holes appear, and as they become detached from the pan, lift them out and pile them up on a plate. Continue with the rest of the batter and filling.

Put a tablespoon of filling in the middle of each pancake, on the uncooked side. Fold the pancake in half over the filling to make a half-moon shape, and close the pastries by pinching the edges very firmly together to seal them.

Working in batches, deep-fry the pancakes very briefly very briefly in sizzling but not too hot oil, turning them over once, until they just begin to color. (They become hard if they are fried too long.) Then lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Dip them, while still hot, on both sides in the syrup so they absorb some, and transfer to a serving plate. in sizzling but not too hot oil, turning them over once, until they just begin to color. (They become hard if they are fried too long.) Then lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Dip them, while still hot, on both sides in the syrup so they absorb some, and transfer to a serving plate.

Serve them warm or cold. Pour any remaining syrup into a bowl and offer extra to those who have a sweet tooth.

VARIATION Instead of deep-frying the pancakes, you can bake them. Arrange them on an oiled baking dish, brush them with oil or melted b.u.t.ter, and bake them in an oven preheated to 400F for 15 to 20 minutes.

PANCAKES STUFFED with with CHEESE CHEESE Atayef Bil Jibne Follow the above recipe, and instead of walnuts use the following filling: blend in the food processor 13 ounces mozzarella cheese with 4 tablespoons sugar and 2 teaspoons rose water.

TINY OPEN PANCAKES with with CREAM CREAM and and ROSE PETAL JAM ROSE PETAL JAM Atayef Bil Ashta These are easy and a treat. Make the pancakes as in Pancakes Stuffed with Walnuts (page 326), but use just 1 tablespoon batter for each pancake, and turn them to cook the other side. The quant.i.ty of batter will make about 30 little pancakes. Dip the little pancakes into the syrup and arrange on a flat serving plate. Spread each with a heaped teaspoon of creme fraiche (you will need about 1 cup) and top with a teaspoon of rose petal jam. Alternatively, instead of the rose petal jam, sprinkle finely chopped pistachios over the cream (you will need about 1 cup whole pistachios).

ALMOND PUFF PASTRY PIES Sambousek Bi Loz These little pies, which are filled with nuts-almonds, pine nuts, pistachios, or walnuts-can be served with tea or coffee, either dusted with confectioners' sugar or dipped in syrup. Use commercial fresh or frozen and defrosted puff pastry.

MAKES 24 PIES 1 pound puff pastryflour, for dusting1/3 stick (2 tablespoons) unsalted b.u.t.ter, meltedconfectioners' sugarFOR THE ALMOND FILLING 2 cups ground almonds 1 cups superfine sugar3 tablespoons orange blossom water (see page 6) It is important to roll out the puff pastry as thinly as you possibly can. It is easier to do so if you cut the block into four equal pieces and roll out each one separately. Dust the surface and the rolling pin with flour, and roll out the sheet of pastry, turning it over and dusting it with flour, until you can cut out 6 rounds with a 4-inch pastry cutter. Put the rounds in a pile and wrap the pile in plastic wrap. Do the same with the remaining pastry.

Mix the filling ingredients to a paste. Put a tablespoon of the filling in the center of each round and bring the edges up together over the filling to make a half-moon shape. Seal the edges by pinching them very firmly together. A traditional way is to twist the edges making a scalloped effect; another is to press down the edges with the p.r.o.ngs of a fork. Moistening the edges with a finger dipped in water helps to make the pastry stick.

Arrange the pies on sheets of foil on baking trays. Brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter and bake in an oven preheated to 400F for about 15 minutes, or until they are puffed up and lightly golden. Let them cool before dusting with confectioners' sugar.

VARIATION For a pine nut filling, blend 3 cups pine nuts in the food processor with 1 cup superfine sugar and 4 tablespoons orange blossom water.

For a pistachio filling, blend 3 cups pistachios in the food processor with 1 cup superfine sugar and 4 tablespoons rose water (see page 7).

For a walnut filling, blend 3 cups walnuts in the food processor with 1 cup sugar, the grated rind of 1 orange, and 4 tablespoons fresh orange juice.

For the pastries in syrup, bring to the boil 1 cups water and 2 cups sugar with 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Lower the heat and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the sugar is completely dissolved. Let it cool and then chill it in the refrigerator. Make the pastries as in the above recipe, or with any of the fillings in the listed variations. Do not dust them with confectioners' sugar but dip them in the cold syrup immediately after they come out of the oven.

PISTACHIO PASTE STUFFED with with CREAM CREAM Bohsalino I had never come across this pastry before. I tasted it in Beirut, where a few patisseries claim to have invented it. One called Bohsali gave it the name Bohsalino; Bohsalino; another calls it another calls it Taj el Malek. Taj el Malek. It involves a little skill-akin to pottery making-that improves with practice. In Lebanon they are filled with the thick cream that rises to the top when rich buffaloes' milk is boiled. They do not keep more than a few days because of the cream and must be kept in the refrigerator. It involves a little skill-akin to pottery making-that improves with practice. In Lebanon they are filled with the thick cream that rises to the top when rich buffaloes' milk is boiled. They do not keep more than a few days because of the cream and must be kept in the refrigerator.1 cups sh.e.l.led pistachios cup superfine sugar2 tablespoons rose water (see page 7)about cup thick clotted cream or creme fraicheConfectioners' sugar to sprinkle on Grind the pistachios in the food processor, then add the sugar and rose water (don't be tempted to put in any more rose water) and blend until it forms a soft, malleable, slightly oily paste. The mix will appear like wet sand at first, but the oil released by the pistachios will bind it into a workable paste.

Rub your hands with oil so that the paste does not stick. Take little lumps the size of a small egg, roll each into a ball, then make a hole in it with your finger and enlarge it by pinching the sides and pulling them up to make a little dome-shaped pot.