Mix the eggplant puree with the lemon juice, garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and mint. Spread the puree on a large, flat serving plate. Sprinkle all over with the finely sliced scallions, diced tomatoes, and pomegranate seeds, if using.

EGGPLANT with with POMEGRANATE MOLa.s.sES POMEGRANATE MOLa.s.sES Batinjan Bil Rumman This dish is traditionally made with fried eggplants, but I like to roast them whole and then peel them and cut them into pieces. Serve them hot or cold.

SERVES 4 TO 6 2 to 3 eggplants (weighing about 2 pounds)juice of 1 lemon1 tablespoon pomegranate mola.s.ses1 to 2 garlic cloves, crushedsalt and black pepper3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsleyseeds of pomegranate (optional) p.r.i.c.k the eggplants in a few places with a pointed knife to prevent them from exploding. Place them on a sheet of foil on an oven tray and roast them in an oven preheated to 475F for 45 to 55 minutes, until the skins are wrinkled and they are very soft.

When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a colander or strainer with small holes. Press them very gently to allow their juices to run out. Then, on a serving plate, cut them up into large pieces and dress them quickly so that the flesh does not have time to discolor.

Mix the lemon juice, pomegranate mola.s.ses, garlic, salt, pepper, and olive oil, pour over the eggplants, and turn them to coat them all over with the dressing.

Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley and, if you like, pomegranate seeds.

EGGPLANTS with with YOGURT YOGURT and and TAHINI TAHINI Batinjan Bil Laban Wal Tehine Prepare the recipe on the previous page. Instead of sprinkling the eggplants with parsley and pomegranate seeds, pour over 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt beaten with 2 tablespoons tahini. Serve sprinkled with cup pine nuts fried until golden in 1 tablespoon olive oil. This is marvelous.

EGGPLANTS with with VINEGAR VINEGAR and and GARLIC GARLIC Batinjan Bi Khal Roast, peel, and cut up the eggplants as in the recipe on the preceding page for Eggplant with Pomegranate Mola.s.ses and marinate overnight in the following dressing: Fry 6 chopped garlic cloves in about 1 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, stirring it over low heat for moments only, until the aroma rises, without letting it brown. Mix in 2 tablespoons white or red wine vinegar, 3 more tablespoons of olive oil, salt, and black pepper. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

EGGPLANTS with with PEPPERY TOMATO SAUCE PEPPERY TOMATO SAUCE Roast, peel, and cut up the eggplants as in the recipe for Eggplant with Pomegranate Mola.s.ses (page 258). Turn the pieces in the juice of lemon to prevent them from dis-coloring.

Heat 2 or 3 crushed garlic cloves in 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, stirring them over a medium heat for seconds only, until the aroma rises. Add 1 pound peeled and chopped tomatoes, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar, salt, and teaspoon ground chili pepper, or to taste. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the mixture is reduced to a thick sauce. Toward the end, add 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped mint leaves. Let the sauce cool and pour over the eggplants. Serve cold.

EGGPLANT SLICES with with POMEGRANATE, YOGURT, POMEGRANATE, YOGURT, and and TAHINI TAHINI Batinjan Bil Rumman Wal Laban The dressing of pomegranate mola.s.ses and vinegar gives the eggplant slices a sweet-and-sour flavor. Serve them hot or cold, with the yogurt and tahini topping at room temperature.

SERVES 6 TO 8 4 eggplants (about 2 pounds)extra virgin olive oilsalt1 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.ses1 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt1 garlic clove, crushed2 tablespoons tahini cup pine nuts Cut the eggplants, lengthwise or crosswise, into slices about inch thick. Place them on an oiled sheet of foil on a baking sheet or tray. Brush both sides of the eggplant slices with oil and sprinkle lightly with salt. Place in a very hot oven preheated to 475F for about 30 minutes, until they are soft and browned, turning the slices over once. Arrange on a shallow serving dish.

Mix the pomegranate mola.s.ses, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons olive oil, and brush the eggplant slices with the dressing. Beat the yogurt with the garlic and tahini and pour over the slices. Fry the pine nuts very briefly in tablespoon olive oil, stirring to brown them very lightly all over, and sprinkle over the yogurt.

VARIATION Instead of the pine nuts, garnish with the shiny pink seeds of a fresh pomegranate.

EGGPLANTS with with TOMATOES TOMATOES and and CHICKPEAS CHICKPEAS Moussaka'a Menazzaleh This dish can be served cold as a salad or hot as a side dish to accompany meat or chicken. It has a delicate sweet-and-sour flavor.

SERVES 6 2 eggplants.e.xtra virgin olive oilsalt2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed1 pound tomatoes, skinned and chopped2 teaspoons sugarblack pepper1 tablespoons pomegranate mola.s.sesone 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and then into -inch slices. Brush them generously with oil, sprinkle lightly with salt, and cook them under the broiler for 15 minutes, or on an oiled griddle, turning them over once. They do not need to be cooked through as they will be stewed further in the sauce.

In a large saucepan, heat the garlic in 1 tablespoon olive oil for seconds only, stirring, until it just begins to color. Add the tomatoes and squash them gently in the pan. Add the sugar, salt, and black pepper and cook for 15 minutes. Add the pomegranate mola.s.ses, put in the eggplants and chickpeas, and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the eggplants are very soft.

Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

OKRA with with BABY ONIONS BABY ONIONS and and TOMATOES TOMATOES Bamieh Bi Zeit Cooked in this way, in olive oil, the dish is normally served cold as a salad, but I also like it hot with rice or as a side dish with meat or chicken.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1 pound medium okra pound baby onions or shallots6 whole garlic cloves, peeled5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 pound tomatoes, peeled and choppedsalt and black pepper1 teaspoon sugar3 to 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or coriander Wash the okra and, with a small sharp knife, carefully pare the conical stem ends without cutting through the pods. To peel the baby onions or shallots more easily, put them in boiling water and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain, and peel them when they are cool enough to handle.

In a large pan over low heat, gently fry the onions and garlic cloves in 3 tablespoons oil, shaking the pan to color them very lightly all over. Add the okra and saute gently for about 5 minutes, turning the pods around in the pan.

Add the tomatoes, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the okra are tender and the sauce is reduced. Taste and adjust the seasoning, stir in the chopped parsley or coriander, and cook a minute more. Stir in the remaining olive oil and serve at room temperature.

VARIATION Add the juice of lemon or 1 tablespoon pomegranate mola.s.ses toward the end of the cooking time. If adding mola.s.ses, omit the sugar.

ZUCCHINI with with VINEGAR, MINT, VINEGAR, MINT, and and GARLIC GARLIC Koussa Bil Khal These zucchini slices are usually fried but they are just as good grilled. They can be prepared hours before serving, even a day ahead.

SERVES 6 5 large zucchini (weighing about 2 pounds)extra virgin olive oilsalt2 tablespoons white wine vinegar2 teaspoons dried, crushed mint2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut them lengthwise in slices about 1/3 inch thick. Arrange them side by side on a baking sheet lined with foil and brushed with oil. Brush the slices generously with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Cook under a preheated broiler until lightly browned, then turn over and brush the other side with oil and return to the broiler until browned.

Mix the vinegar with the mint and garlic and brush a little onto each slice. Serve at room temperature.

VARIATION Instead of using raw garlic, heat it in 2 tablespoons oil in a small frying pan until the aroma rises, but do not let it color.

Serve the grilled slices topped with strained Greek-style yogurt.

ROAST POTATOES with with LEMON LEMON and and CORIANDER CORIANDER Batata Bel Lamoun Wal Cosbara These potatoes are normally deep-fried or sauteed in olive oil but they are equally good roasted. They are served cold, although I admit I like them hot, too.

SERVES 6 2 pounds new potatoes, peeledsalt and black pepper5 to 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil4 garlic cloves, crushedjuice of 1 lemonslarge handful of chopped coriander Boil the potatoes in salted water for about 10 minutes, then drain and transfer to a wide baking dish. Cut them into -inch cubes and sprinkle over some salt and pepper, the olive oil, and the garlic. Mix and turn the pieces of potato so they are coated all over with the oil.

Roast the potato pieces in a very hot oven, preheated to 475F, for 30 minutes, or until they are crisp and brown. Take them out, sprinkle evenly with the lemon juice and chopped coriander, and mix well, being careful not to break the potatoes.

CURLY ENDIVE with with CARAMELIZED ONIONS CARAMELIZED ONIONS Hindbeh Wild chicory is used for this Lebanese mountain salad. The sweetness of the caramelized onion topping is a contrast to the slightly bitter leaves. You can sometimes find bunches of wild chicory, which has long, dark green leaves, in Middle Eastern stores, but ordinary curly endive-what the French call chicoree- chicoree- will do very well. The salad can also be made with dandelion leaves. will do very well. The salad can also be made with dandelion leaves.

SERVES 4 TO 6 about 2 pounds curly endive2 large onions, sliced6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil4 to 6 garlic cloves, crushedsalt and black pepper2 lemons Trim the stem ends of the endive and remove any discolored bits, then wash the leaves. Boil in salted water for a couple of minutes, or until it is soft, then drain and press out the excess water. Cut up the leaves into pieces 1 to 2 inches long.

Fry the onions in the oil in a large pan over medium heat until brown and caramelized, stirring often. Remove about three-quarters of the onions to use as the topping, draining them on paper towels. Add the garlic to the onions remaining in the pan, and as soon as the aroma rises, put in the endive. Add salt and pepper and the juice of lemon, and cook, stirring, for a minute or so.

Serve cold on a flat serving dish with the caramelized onions sprinkled all over the top, accompanied by the remaining lemons, cut into quarters.

VARIATION To the onions remaining in the pan, add one 14-ounce can chickpeas or haricot beans, well drained, at the same time as the endive.

SPINACH and and BEANS BEANS with with CARAMELIZED ONIONS CARAMELIZED ONIONS Sabanekh Bi Loubia Use black-eyed peas or haricot beans for this dish. You can use frozen spinach (defrost it thoroughly). If using fresh, wash it well and remove the stems only if they are very thick.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1 large onion, sliced6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil3 garlic cloves, chopped pound fresh spinachsalt and black pepperone 14-ounce can beans, drainedjuice of to lemon Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil, stirring often, until brown and caramelized.

In a large saucepan, heat the garlic in 2 tablespoons oil for moments only, until the aroma rises. Add the spinach, put on the lid, and cook until the spinach crumples to a soft ma.s.s. Add salt and pepper.

Stir the beans and the fried onions into the spinach; add lemon juice and cook through. Add the remaining oil and serve cold.

VARIATION Chickpeas can be used in the same way instead of beans.

LENTILS with with PASTA PASTA and and CARAMELIZED ONIONS CARAMELIZED ONIONS Rishta Bi Addas This can be eaten hot or at room temperature, like a pasta salad. The tagliatelle is usually cooked in the same water as the lentils, which gives the pasta a pleasant earthy color and flavor, but you can also boil them separately.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1 large onion, sliced6 to 7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cup large green or brown lentils4 ounces dry tagliatelle nestssalt and black pepperlarge handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil until brown and caramelized, stirring often. It is a good idea to start with the lid on; this allows them to soften more quickly.

Rinse the lentils and boil them in plenty of water until they are only just tender. Some brands take as little as 10 to 15 minutes, others take much longer. You should read the instructions on the package and watch the cooking carefully.

Break the tagliatelle into pieces by crushing the nests in your hands and drop the pieces into the pan with the lentils-there should be enough water to cover them. Add salt, stir, and boil vigorously until the pasta is cooked al dente.

Drain quickly and toss gently with the remaining olive oil, a little salt and pepper, the fried onions, and the chopped parsley.

CHICKPEAS with with TOASTED BREAD TOASTED BREAD and and YOGURT YOGURT Fattet Hummus Bi Laban A layer of chickpeas, spread over bread soaked in their cooking broth, smothered in yogurt with an elusive taste of tahini, and topped with pine nuts may sound heavy but it is surprisingly light and delicate in the eating, and the mix of textures, temperatures, and flavors is a joy. The bread must be the very thin flat bread known as khobz halabi, khobz halabi, which is sold by Lebanese bakeries. You need either which is sold by Lebanese bakeries. You need either 1 1 large one measuring about large one measuring about 12 12 inches in diameter, or inches in diameter, or 2 2 smaller ones; or use smaller ones; or use 1 1 pita bread instead. pita bread instead.

SERVES 6 TO 8 1 cups chickpeas, soaked for 2 hours or overnightsalt2 garlic cloves, crushed1 large or 2 small very thin Lebanese flat breads (see above)2 tablespoons tahini4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature to 2/3 cup pine nuts1 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Drain the chickpeas and put them in a pan with water to cover and simmer, covered, for 1 to 1 hours, until they are very soft. Add water, as needed, so that the level remains about 1/3 inch above the chickpeas throughout the cooking. Add salt when the chickpeas have begun to soften and the crushed garlic toward the end.

Toast the bread in an oven preheated to 400F until it becomes crisp. Then place it at the bottom of an ovenproof dish and break it up into smallish pieces by pressing down on it with the palm of your hand. Pour the hot chickpeas and much of their cooking liquid over the pieces of bread so that they are well soaked. If you are not ready to serve, you can reheat this in the oven when you are.

Before serving, beat the tahini into the yogurt, and pour it over the chickpeas. Quickly fry the pine nuts in the oil, stirring, until lightly browned, and sprinkle over the dish.

VARIATION Fry the pine nuts in 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter until lightly colored, and then add 2 tablespoons crushed dried mint and tablespoon red or white wine vinegar.

In a version called ta.s.seia ta.s.seia, the chickpeas are crushed and mixed with 2 to 3 tablespoons tahini, the juice of lemon, and 1 crushed garlic clove. You can put these in a blender with a little of the cooking water. Squeeze a little lemon juice into the chickpea water before sprinkling it over the bread, spread the mashed chickpea puree over the top, and cover with yogurt, then garnish as above.

Instead of toasting the bread, some people cut it into triangles and deep-fry them in hot oil. Drain the pieces on absorbent paper towels.

PRAWNS with with GARLIC GARLIC and and CORIANDER CORIANDER Kreidess Bi Cosbara Use raw king prawns for this dish; they are gray and turn pink when they are cooked. Some supermarkets sell them ready-peeled.

SERVES 4 16 large, raw king prawns3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil3 garlic cloves, finely choppedhandful of chopped coriander1 lemon, cut in quarters

If the prawns need peeling, pull off the heads and legs, then peel off the sh.e.l.ls, but leave the tails on. If you see a dark vein along the back, make a fine slit with a sharp knife and pull it out.

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the prawns, and cook for a minute. Turn them over, add the garlic and coriander, and cook for a minute more, until the prawns turn pink. They should not need any salt. Serve them hot with the lemon quarters.

CHEESE OMELETTE Ijjit Al Jibne This simple herby omelette can be served as a light main dish accompanied by a salad. It can be served hot or cold. To serve it as a mezze, mezze, cut it into small wedges, or make tiny pancakes (see Variation). cut it into small wedges, or make tiny pancakes (see Variation).

SERVES 4 TO 6 8 eggs, lightly beaten6 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork6 scallions, finely slicedhandful of chopped mintlarge handful of chopped flat-leaf parsleywhite pepper3 tablespoons olive oil In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs with the rest of the ingredients, except the oil.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, nonstick ovenproof frying pan. When it begins to sizzle, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the bottom sets.

Drizzle the remaining oil over the top of the omelette, and cook under the broiler for a few minutes, until lightly browned. Serve it cut in wedges like a cake.

VARIATION Drop small amounts of the egg mixture in batches-by the half ladle-in a nonstick frying pan filmed with oil and turn them over as soon as the bottoms become detached.

GRILLED CHICKEN WINGS with with LEMON LEMON and and GARLIC GARLIC Jawaneh Chicken wings are a very popular mezze mezze item. They should be quite lemony and garlicky. You eat them with your fingers. item. They should be quite lemony and garlicky. You eat them with your fingers.

SERVES 4 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oiljuice of 1 lemonsalt and black pepper2 to 4 garlic cloves, crushed16 chicken wings2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Mix the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and garlic, and place the chicken wings in the marinade. Leave for 1 hour, covered with plastic wrap, in the refrigerator.

Remove the wings from the marinade and place them on a piece of foil on a baking tray and cook them under a preheated broiler for 7 minutes, turning them over once. Or barbecue them over glowing embers for the same amount of time. Serve them sprinkled with chopped parsley.

GRILLED QUAILS Siman Meshwi Quails are part of the mezze mezze tradition. Use your hands to eat them. tradition. Use your hands to eat them.

SERVES 4 4 quails2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and pepper1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley Lay each quail breast side down. Cut along one side of the backbone, then along the other side and remove the bone. Open out the bird and turn it over. Cut the wing and leg joints just enough to pull them a little apart, then press down hard with the palm of your hand to flatten the bird.

Place the quails on a sheet of foil on an oven tray. Rub them with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook the birds under a preheated broiler for about 8 minutes, turning them over once.

Serve sprinkled with the chopped parsley.

LITTLE PUFF PASTRY CHEESE PIES Sambousek Bi Jibne These melt-in-the-mouth cheese pies make good party food. They can be eaten hot or warm. You can make them in advance and heat them through before serving. Use fresh or frozen and defrosted puff pastry.

MAKES 32 PIES 1 pound puff pastryflour2 to 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, meltedFOR THE FILLING pound mozzarella cheese pound feta cheese2 eggs, lightly beaten It is important to roll out the puff pastry as thinly as you possibly can. It is easier to do this if you cut it into four equal pieces and roll out each one separately. Dust the rolling surface and the rolling pin with flour. Roll out the first sheet of pastry, turning it over and dusting it with flour. Cut 6 rounds with a 4-inch pastry cutter. Make a ball out of the off-cuts, roll this out, and make 2 more rounds. Put the 8 rounds in a pile and wrap it in plastic wrap. Do the same with the remaining pastry.

For the filling, blend the mozzarella in the food processor. In a bowl, mash the feta cheese with a fork, add the mozzarella, and mix well together, then mix in the eggs.

Put a tablespoon of the filling on one half of each round of pastry. Dip your finger in water and slightly dampen the pastry edges (this will make them stick better), then fold the pastry over the filling to make a half-moon shape. Seal the pies by pinching the edges very firmly together. A traditional way is to finish the pies by twisting the edges, making a scalloped effect; another is to press down the edges with the p.r.o.ngs of a fork.

Arrange the pies on sheets of foil on baking trays. Brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter and bake them in an oven preheated to 400F for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are puffed up and lightly golden.

VARIATION Instead of baking, deep-fry the pies in vegetable oil, turning them over once. Drain them on absorbent paper towels.

For a shiny golden color, instead of brushing with melted b.u.t.ter, brush the pies with an egg yolk mixed with a drop of water.

SPINACH PIES Fatayer Bi Sabanikh These little pies are a famous Lenten specialty; they are deliciously sharp and lemony. A good, commercial puff pastry will do very well for the dough. The pies are wonderful eaten hot and also good cold.You may use frozen leaf spinach instead of fresh spinach. Defrost it and squeeze out the liquid.

MAKES ABOUT 24 PIES 1 pound fresh spinach leaves1 large onion, chopped4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and pepper teaspoon ground allspicejuice of 1 lemon or 1 tablespoon sumac (see page 7)14 ounces puff pastryflour Wash the spinach and remove any thick stems (you can leave the thin stems of very young spinach). Put the leaves in a large saucepan with just the water that is clinging to the leaves and steam with the lid on for a minute or two, until the spinach crumples to a soft ma.s.s. Strain in a colander, then squeeze all the liquid out with your hands. Chop the spinach coa.r.s.ely.

In a large frying pan, fry the onion in 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, stirring occasionally, until golden. Add the spinach, salt and pepper, allspice, and lemon juice or sumac and mix well, leaving the pan on the heat for a few moments so that any excess liquid can evaporate.

Cut the puff pastry in half to make rolling out more manageable. Lightly dust the rolling surface and the rolling pin with flour. Roll out each half into a thin sheet, turning the sheet over a few times and dusting it each time with a little flour. Cut it into rounds with a pastry cutter 4 inches in diameter. Off-cuts can be rolled into a ball and rolled out again, so you do not waste any part of the dough. Put the rounds in a pile and wrap it in plastic wrap. Do the same with the remaining pastry.

Take a round of pastry, lay it flat on one hand, and put a tablespoon of filling in the middle. To make the traditional Lebanese three-sided pie, lift up two sides and pinch the neighboring edges together, making a thin-ridged joint. Lift up the third side, join its two edges to the other two to make a small three-sided pyramid with a rounded base. Seal the openings by pinching the edges firmly all the way to the top. Repeat with the remaining pastry rounds and filling. Don't worry if the pies open a little at the top to reveal the filling when they are cooked.

Place the pies on sheets of foil on baking trays, brush the tops with the remaining olive oil, and bake in an oven preheated to 350F for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden.

VARIATION Add cup pine nuts to the fried onions, and stir until they begin to color, before adding the spinach.

LITTLE MEAT PIZZAS Lahma Bi Ajeen The dough given here is one of a variety used to make the famous Arab "pizzas" variously called lahma bi ajeen lahma bi ajeen and and sfiha. sfiha. It contains yogurt and olive oil and is soft and moist. Small pizzas make good finger food; large ones make an excellent snack. They can be made in advance and reheated. It contains yogurt and olive oil and is soft and moist. Small pizzas make good finger food; large ones make an excellent snack. They can be made in advance and reheated.Do also try the different toppings given in the variations below.