CHAPTER XV.

Relates how they came in sight of the third inhabited island, and what happened there.

Still with a westerly course we proceeded, with much anxiety arising from the confusion in determining the distance of our ships from the port of Lima, and still more owing to the allowance being so short that neither our thirst was quenched nor our hunger satisfied. At last G.o.d sent us a good shower of rain, and plenty of water was collected. The people derived much consolation from this provision of Heaven, and at seeing soon after many snakes, fish found in shallow water, turtles, wild fruit, cocoa-nuts, trunks of trees, land birds, currants, and other signs of the approach of land. We therefore navigated at night under small sail, keeping a good look-out, the lanterns lighted, with the launch ahead, having orders to signal with lights if there were rocks or land. So we continued until the 7th of April. On that day, at three in the afternoon, a man at the mast-head of the Capitana cried out: "I see land to the N.W., high and black." The voice sounded well to all; the sails were trimmed, and the bows turned to the land. We lay-to that night, and in the morning we found ourselves on a bank, where the least depth was 12 fathoms. There was a great excitement over this, which lasted during the two hours that it took to cross over the shoal, always sounding, and with the anchors ready and look-out men at the mast-heads to report what they saw.

We arrived near the island, and saw some smoke rising on the north side, which doubled our delight and gave us hopes of getting water, which chiefly engaged our thoughts. Night closed in, and next day the Captain ordered the Admiral, with the launch and a boat, to go and reconnoitre the island, while the ships, at the position where they were, found a port, where they anch.o.r.ed with incredible joy. The Admiral returned in the afternoon, very well satisfied with the appearance of the land, and it was settled that the next day we should seek a better port, fuel, and water.

It was scarcely dawn when the Admiral left the ships with an armed party in the launch and boats, and at a distance of 2 leagues found a village on a small reef. The natives, in great haste, took their women and children inland, and all that they could carry away, while 150 of them took their arms. One came forward shouting--it was not understood for what purpose,--a musket was fired off merely to astonish them, and when they heard it they all dived into the water except the first native. This man came near us, and by signs told us not to fire, and that he would make his people put down their bows and arrows; so this was done on both sides. He came to the boats, and gave his hand to the Admiral in token of friendship, giving him to understand, by pointing to his head, that he was the lord of the land, and that he was called Tumai, and by another name--Jalique.

Presently another native came and looked at us with astonishment, and we looked at him with no less care: owing to his colour being so white, and so brown as regards beard and hair, that our people called him "the Fleming." His name was Olan.

The Admiral asked Tumai to order the natives not to shoot their arrows, and to go away from there, that his men might land. At one word from Tumai they all went away to the island, and he alone remained. Then our people landed peacefully, before anything else forming a corps de garde in one of the houses, placing sentinels in appropriate places, and the rest lodged in the village.

By signs Tumai showed the Admiral his houses, and asked him not to set them or the others on fire. He further said that he would a.s.sist and give what his island contained. The Admiral showed him great friendship; and, the better to impress him with it, he dressed him in shot silk, [93] which he seemed to value highly. Presently a boat was sent to report to the Captain all that had taken place, and that there was a very good watering-place near the village. The ships should shift their berths to a port much nearer, and the launch anch.o.r.ed still nearer the village, between the land and a rock.

When the ships were anch.o.r.ed, all the friars landed and went to the village; and at the request of the Captain they performed the First Ma.s.s of Our Lady of Loreto, with a commemoration of St. Peter. The natives, while they were saying Ma.s.s, were present, very attentive on their knees, beating their b.r.e.a.s.t.s, and doing everything they saw the Christians do. It is certainly a great pity, when one comes to think of it, with what facility all the people of those parts would receive the Faith if there was any one to teach them; and yet what a great perdition there is of such a vast number of souls as are condemned here! G.o.d will be best served if the time is made to come very quickly that will bring the blessing of blessings, of which these people are so ignorant, of others so desired.

Next day, at the request of Tumai, the Admiral sent him to the ship with a soldier, that he might tell the Captain that the Chief had come to see him, and who he was. The Captain received him with a cheerful countenance, and embraced him, and Tumai gave him the kiss of peace on his cheek. They were seated in the gallery, and the table was got ready that he might eat. But he declined to eat anything, though he was pressed to do so.

The Commissary was present; and that Tumai might understand that he was a person to be respected, the Captain kissed his hand, and told Tumai that he should do the same, which he did.

The Captain asked Tumai whether he had seen ships or people like us. He gave it to be understood that he had not, but that he had received reports about them. He was asked about the volcano that had been seen in the former voyage, and he said, by signs with fire, that it was five days' voyage to the west, and that in his language it was called "Mami," and that there the Island of Santa Cruz was near and in sight, the native name of which was "Indeni." The Captain also told him of the death inflicted upon the Chief Malope during the other voyage, and of the head which the Adelantado Mendana sent as payment, as may be read in the account of the voyage. [94] It was understood that this was the reason why he and all his people showed themselves to be so alarmed when they saw arquebuses, and explained their knowledge of ships and people like us.

The Captain further asked Tumai whether he knew of other lands far or near, inhabited or uninhabited. For this he pointed to his island, then to the sea, then to various points of the horizon; and having explained by these signs, he began counting on his fingers as many as sixty islands, and a very large land, which he called "Manicolo." The Captain wrote down the names, having the compa.s.s before him, for noting the bearing of each island from the one where they were, called "Taumaco," to S.W., S.S.W., and N.W. To explain which were small islands, Tumai made small circles, and for larger ones larger circles; while for the large land he opened both his arms and hands without making them meet. To explain which were the distant islands, and which were nearer, he pointed to the sun, then rested his head on his hand, shut his eyes, and with his fingers counted the number of nights one had to sleep on the voyage. In a similar way he explained which people were white, black, or mulattos; which were mixed, which friendly, which hostile. He gave it to be understood that in one island they ate human flesh, by biting his arm, and indicated that he did not like such people. In this way and in others it appeared that what he said was understood. He repeated it many times until he was tired, and, pointing towards the S.W., W., and other parts, he gave it to be well understood how many more lands there were. He then showed a desire to return to his house, and the Captain, the more to please him, gave him things brought for barter, and he departed after embraces and other tokens of love.

Next day the Captain went to the village where our people were, and in order to corroborate what Tumai had said, he a.s.sembled the natives on the beach. Holding a paper in his hand, with the compa.s.s before him, he began asking them all once and many times respecting the lands to which Tumai had given names, and all agreed. They gave tidings of other inhabited islands, and also of that great land. Other persons, on that day and at other times, put the same questions to the natives, and always with the same result, so that it appeared that these people were truthful. They were much astonished at seeing one reading a paper, and, taking it in their hands, they looked at it in front and behind.

One day the natives were seen eating certain pieces of meat, and they were asked cautiously what it was. That they might be understood, they showed a piece of raw hide with the hair on, and one put his hands on his head, intending it to be understood, with other very intelligible signs, that in those great lands there were cows and buffalo; and when they were shown pearls on the b.u.t.ton of a rosary, they said they had them.

They liked much to see us place our guard. They showed themselves well contented at the way they were treated. All they gave was eaten without scruple, and all they were given was taken with good will. They established great friendship with each of our people that they took a fancy to, exchanging names, calling them comrades, and treating them as if their acquaintance had been of long standing. It came to such a point that some of our people went alone to their villages without causing any offence, or any of our things being missed, such as our clothes left in the streams where they were being washed, or pots and copper kettles.

An agreement was made with Tumai about wood and water for the ships, all which he sent with great good will--as much as we needed--by natives in canoes. Some concealed themselves, others went on board and asked for bells, which they esteemed very much, and other things that were given them, with which they returned contented.

Tumai was lord of this and other islands. His age was fifty; a man with a good body and face, handsome eyes, well-formed nose, colour rather brown, beard and hair turning grey. He was grave and sedate, prudent and wise in what he did, and what he promised he performed. Once he wanted to go to a village, to see two women he had there. He asked leave, and left one of his sons as a hostage.

CHAPTER XVI.

Gives an account of this island, of the people, their food and canoes, and of our departure from it.

The native name for this island is Taumaco. It received the name of Nuestra Senora del Socorro in memory of the succour found there. [95]

It is in lat.i.tude 10 20'. Its circ.u.mference is 10 leagues, more or less. It is moderately high and well wooded. For this reason, and its shape, the view of it is pleasant. It runs east and west. Along its beaches there are many palm groves, villages with few houses, and a quant.i.ty of canoes. It is distant from Lima 1,650 [96] leagues. On the east side there are three pointed rocks, which are only bare when the wind is E. or N.E., and between them and the island is the port where we anch.o.r.ed first. It has 25 fathoms of depth. The second anchorage is on the south side of the island, west of a rock which is under water, depth 18 fathoms, with bottom of rough coral, which chafes cables, so that ours were buoyed. It is without shelter; and for this reason, and the high seas that rise, we lay at single anchor, and in some anxiety and danger.

The village of Tumai is on the south side, a little apart from the island, and surrounded by water, so we called it Venice. They cannot embark in or land from their canoes, except when it is high water. It has in front, at a distance of an arquebus-shot, a small valley with fruit trees, crops, and a small stream of very clear and wholesome water, whence was got that which was taken on board. The houses are large and clean, framed with wood, the roof of sweet canes covered with palm leaves, with two or three low doors, and the floors covered with reeds. The beds are of matting, with stools somewhat curved to put the heads on. There are larger houses, and in them certain canoes with large and well-carved trunks, with decks of plank, and very strongly fastened with beams and poles. These go down on one side until they reach the water, [97] acting as a counterpoise to prop up, enabling them to carry more sail. The joinings of the vessel are cemented together with a certain gum which is found here, that burns like a candle when set on fire, and oils well. The inside has a small cabin or retreat, in which all the provisions are kept when at sea. The bows were ornamented with pearl sh.e.l.ls, and close by were the paddles, rigging, ropes, and large mat sails. Each canoe will hold thirty or forty persons. There was also an open s.p.a.ce with certain poles, some of them dyed red, for which the natives have great respect, cloths, matting, and cocoa-nuts being collected there. It was understood to be a burying-place of some of their chief people, or a place where the Devil speaks to them.

The island yields roots and fruits, such as yams, cocoa-nuts, plantains, sweet canes, and some very large almonds, whose pips are formed of leaves. They are sweet and very pleasant to eat. The nutmegs are only used by the natives as a paste to dye their arrows. Other fruits were seen and eaten, and a small pig. They do not eat the hens. They killed ten or a dozen c.o.c.ks, but they hid the hens. A small dog was seen. We found a ball of artimonia, and it was ascertained that they make them to fight with, fastened to the ends of sticks, serving as maces.

The natives are tall as a rule, straight, vigorous, well-favoured, of a clear mulatto colour more or less, others very close upon being black. There may be some who have come from other islands by way of contract, or as prisoners. Some of them work. They cover their parts with cloths they weave at small looms. They use the buyo, food also used in the Philippines, which is said to preserve the teeth and strengthen the stomach. Their arms are bows and arrows. They seem to be a people fond of fighting with natives of other islands; two of them were wounded and bruised from this. They told our people that they would go to help and to avenge the others who had been hit with arrows. One gave us to understand that he was a surgeon.

Two leagues to the west there is another island, inhabited, and apparently about the same size as Taumaco. It is called Temelflua. To the N.E. of it, at a short distance, are two small islands, rather rocky.

The ships being ready, the Admiral received orders to embark, taking some natives with the objects already stated. The Admiral sent Tumai in advance, the Captain having sent for him to take leave. Tumai and two others were in a canoe talking with the Captain, who gave them a sash and other things, when the boats arrived with our people and four natives, who had been seized, so that Tumai might not see them. But they saw Tumai, and cried out to him to help them. Tumai, seeing that there was no remedy, was deaf to their cries, and for his own safety he shoved off from the ship. The Captain fired a piece as a signal for the launch to weigh. The two companions of Tumai then jumped into the water, and swam on sh.o.r.e. Tumai remained without showing any fear. This man was valorous, and his kindness was worthy to be celebrated and to eternize his name, and his sorrow mourned for. Our people embarked with two natives in each ship, the anchors were weighed, and sail was made at sunset on Tuesday, the 18th of April, running great danger of striking on a rock.

CHAPTER XVII.

Another inhabited island is sighted, and it is related how three natives escaped from the ships, and other things that happened.

The ships were pursuing their course, when a certain person from the Almiranta shouted to the Captain that they should go in search of the Island of Santa Cruz. The Captain answered that the ships had to put their heads, as they were now put, to the S.E., with the intention of following that and other courses, for they now had sufficient wood and water to enable them to find what they were seeking. G.o.d had given us a N.W. wind, one as well suited for that intention as it sounds.

We stood on under little sail, for it was night, and the sea unknown, when towards dawn one of the natives sprang into the sea. He was a youth, but tall and vigorous, of good countenance and gentle bearing, whom the Captain prized highly for the ship. The sailors called as if he could understand them: "Come back to the ship; do not drown yourself. See how the Devil deceives him! Why should you lose so much good as surrounds you here?" But as his intention was different, not caring for words so little understood, he went on swimming to the island, which appeared to be about 3 leagues off.

We went on our way, and in the afternoon of the third day we saw an island [98] at a distance. We hove to for the night, and made sail towards it at daybreak. When we were near the land, the other native, also quite young and not less gay and well disposed, before he could be prevented, jumped overboard, and there remained, as if he was a buoy. At the place where he was, not caring for cries and menaces, with great effrontery, as if he was standing in the water, he took off a shirt he had on, and with incredible speed began swimming to the island, which he would soon reach, being near and to leeward. The Admiral was advised of the flight of the natives, that he might keep a closer watch over the two he had on board.

Only with the object of finding out whether the island was inhabited, we coasted along it. Presently, on an extensive beach, we saw natives running to join others who were looking at us. The Admiral got into the dingey to see what sort of people they were. The natives made signs, with great demonstrations of love, for us to come on sh.o.r.e. Seeing we would not for all their pressing, they gave a mantle of fine palm leaves and notice of other lands, and bade farewell with great signs of regret. We left them in that solitude, gazing at our ships, until we lost sight of them.

Our people were much pleased at the sight of the island, and still more to see such fine-looking people: but suddenly one of the two natives on board the Almiranta, a tall, robust, and strong man, jumped into the sea, and soon was a long way off. They lowered the dingey, but the Captain fired a piece off as a signal that they were not to go after the fugitive, the boat being small and easily capsized. The resolute swimmer went on towards the island with vigorous strokes, being 2 leagues off and to windward.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Relates how, by reason of a strong wind from the N.W., the sea ran across the track of the ships, and how they sighted a high island.

With great regret at the loss of the three best natives, though the one that remained was more free (being the same the Captain pointed out with his finger when they were seized), we proceeded on a S.E. course, with a fresh N.W. breeze, until the following day. The wind increased in force with thick weather, with flights of birds, and the night approaching, so we struck the topmasts and hove to until the 24th of April. On that day the sun was taken, and it was found that we were in 14, the ship having drifted 20 leagues. In the afternoon, the weather having cleared up, the Captain ordered sail to be made, and when he was asked what the course was to be, he answered: "Put the ships' heads where they like, for G.o.d will guide them as may be right;"

and as it was S.W., he said it might continue so. So on that course, with little sail, we steered during the night. Before sunrise on the following day, a sailor of the Capitana named Francisco Rodriguez went to the mast-head, and cried in a cheerful voice: "Very high land ahead!" We all wanted to see it, and all looked at it together with great contentment. Much greater was their satisfaction when they came close, and saw smoke, and natives calling to the launch to come nearer.

This island was calculated to be 1,700 leagues from Lima. It is 7 or 8 leagues in circ.u.mference, forms a round hill, abrupt near the sea, the highest and best-formed I have seen. Its shape is that of a sugar-loaf with the crown cut off. It is cut like a saddle, whence a good stream of water falls into the sea. We saw crops growing, plantains, palms, and other trees. The inhabitants appeared to be of a good colour, and well made. The people were on the N.W. side, where, at a short distance from the sh.o.r.e, there is a bare rock. The lat.i.tude of this land is 14, and it was named San Marcos, [99]

because it was discovered on that Saint's day.