3. When the timer sounds, add the salt, pepper, and sherry, if using. Close the cover and cook for 20 minutes longer.

4. Remove the bay leaf. Puree in batches in a food processor or with a handheld immersion blender. Taste the soup, adding more salt and pepper, if needed. Serve hot, topped with crumbled goat cheese or a dollop of sour cream.

turkey chili with baby white beans Now this is a recipe that calls for canned beans for convenience. It is ready in about 1 hours and has been deemed the best version yet.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off or fuzzy logicCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 82 tablespoons olive oil2 medium-size yellow onions, chopped1 teaspoons dried marjoram1 teaspoons ground c.u.min1 pounds lean ground dark turkey meat3 tablespoons chili powder1 bay leaf1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder1 teaspoons salt, or to taste teaspoon ground cinnamonOne 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, with their juices3 cups beef stockOne 8-ounce can tomato sauceThree 15-ounce cans small white beans, rinsed and drainedGARNISHChopped red onionChopped fresh cilantro leavesGrated Monterey Jack cheeseSour cream 1. Place the olive oil and onions in the rice cooker bowl. Set for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Cook, stirring a few times, until the onions are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the marjoram and c.u.min and cook for another 1 minute. Add the turkey and cook, stirring, until the meat is no longer pink, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the chili powder, bay leaf, cocoa, salt, cinnamon, and tomatoes. Break up the tomatoes with the plastic rice paddle. Stir in the stock and tomato sauce. Close the cover, reset for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 hour.

2. When the timer sounds, add the beans and stir to evenly distribute, using a plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Close the cover and cook for another 20 to 30 minutes.

3. Serve the chili in bowls with the accompaniments nearby for diners to garnish their own.

vegetarian black bean chili After trying scores of vegetarian chilis, in cluding those made with black-eyed peas, cracked wheat, or soybeans, we've decided that black bean chili is just the very best. Rich, dark, and flavorful, this recipe is easy to make and even more of a delight to devour. We were introduced to this version in the 1980s at Greens Restaurant in San Francisco, where you can buy it to go at the bakery and sit outside on one of the docks to eat it with some fresh herb bread.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: Regular2 cups (1 pound) dried black turtle beans, picked over, rinsed, soaked in water to cover (overnight or quick-soak method), and drained1 bay leaf1 tablespoons dried marjoram or savory1 tablespoon c.u.min seeds1 tablespoon hot paprika teaspoon cayenne pepper2 tablespoons chili powder3 tablespoons olive oil3 medium-size yellow onions, chopped3 cloves garlic, choppedOne 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes, with their juices1 teaspoons chopped canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce1 teaspoon salt, or to taste cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 to 2 tablespoons rice vinegar or champagne vinegarGARNISHGrated Muenster cheeseSour cream or creme fraiche6 to 8 sprigs fresh cilantro (optional) 1. Place the beans in the rice cooker bowl with the bay leaf and cover with 3 inches of water. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 45 minutes.

2. Heat a large cast-iron or other heavy metal skillet. Add the marjoram and c.u.min seeds, shaking the pan to lightly toast them. Add the paprika, cayenne, and chili powder at the end and just warm them. Pour this mixture into a mortar to grind the herb into a coa.r.s.e powder.

3. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the toasted spices, tomatoes, chipotles, and salt and stir to combine. Simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes.

4. When the timer sounds, add the tomato mixture to the beans and stir well with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Close the cover, reset for the regular cycle, and simmer until the beans are nice and soft, 1 to 1 hours. Test for doneness; the beans should be tender. Stir in the cilantro and vinegar.

5. Serve the chili in bowls, layering the cheese on the bottom and the sour cream on top, with a sprig of cilantro, if you like.

THE BASICS : SOAKING BEANSAll beans except for lentils and split peas need to be presoaked before cooking, although if you're using the lentils for a salad or side dish, soak them in cold water for 1 hour before cooking and they will retain their distinct shape. Presoaking will improve the taste and digestibility of beans, as well as decrease the cooking time; the technique was originally invented to conserve fuel. We find the quick-soak method to be the most efficient, but you can use the overnight method if you prefer. Buy beans that are smooth and whole, as lots of cracked, broken beans and shriveled skins mean the beans are old and will take a long time to soften and cook.Before soaking, pour the beans into a shallow bowl and pick over by hand to remove any visible organic debris, small rocks, or damaged beans. Pour the beans into a colander and clean thoroughly by rinsing under cold running water.Quick-Soak MethodFor every 2 cups of beans (1 pound), use 6 to 8 cups of hot water. Place the beans and water in a medium-size or large stockpot and bring to a rapid boil over high heat (or use your rice cooker). Boil for 3 minutes and remove from the heat. Cover and let the beans soak for 1 to 1 hours, depending on the size of the bean. Discard any damaged beans, drain well, and rinse. The beans are now ready to be cooked plain or added to a recipe.Overnight-Soak MethodFor every 2 cups of beans (1 pound), use 6 to 8 cups of cold water. Place the beans and water in a medium-size or large stockpot or bowl (or use your rice cooker). Cover and let the beans soak for 8 hours to overnight, depending on the size of the bean. Discard any damaged beans, drain well, and rinse. The beans are now ready to be cooked plain or added to a recipe.

vegetables in the RICE COOKER Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce Asparagus with Raspberry Vinaigrette Broccoli with Lemon Sauce Orange-Glazed Carrots Carrot and Rutabaga Puree Steamed Corn on the Cob Cauliflower with a Puree of Peas Herbed Green Beans Pommes Vapeur with Tarragon b.u.t.ter Spiced Yams with Ginger and Pears Artichokes with Caper Aioli Himmel und Erde Steamed Kabocha Squash with Ginger Dressing Spaghetti Squash Alfredo Cold Vegetable Platter with Sauce Verte Fondutta with Vegetables Steamed Vegetables with Port Beurre Rouge Next to cooking rice, steaming vegetables is the best type of cooking done in the on/off rice cookers. And there are never enough new ways to serve vegetables. Well-cooked (and we don't mean overcooked) vegetables are considered good eating no matter where you go. Steaming has long been acknowledged as the best method for cooking vegetables, as it preserves the natural color, texture, flavor, and nutrients in them. And there is no draining to contend with. The golden rule for most vegetables is not to overcook them, but also be sure not to undercook the harder ones such as winter squashes, and potatoes.

Most models of on/off rice cookers, no matter what size, come equipped with a perforated metal steamer tray that fits into the top of the rice cooker bowl. Other models, usually large 10-cup machines, can come with a double set of plastic steamer baskets that look just like the bamboo steamer baskets that fit over a wok. This means you can either start your rice, then fill the steamer tray with vegetables and let them cook while the rice finishes its cycle, or fill the rice bowl with a few inches of water and just steam the vegetables over boiling water. Vegetables can be served hot from the cooker, or chilled and served cold later in the day, perfect for summer dining. Vegetables cook most evenly in a large cooker; if they are piled up, the steam cannot reach the center. Unfortunately, the fuzzy logic rice cookers are not not designed for steaming. designed for steaming.

CLICK TO SEE STEAMING IN THE RICE COOKERCLICK TO SEE THE BASICS : STEAMING KNOW- HOW.

Here is a guide on how to prepare vegetables for the steamer basket and some recipes to help you get inspired. Remember that produce is seasonal, so your daily melange of vegetables will vary. Cooks usually choose a variety of vegetables from different groupings to balance color, taste, nutrition, and texture. Try a new vegetable once in a while, like steamed fresh water chestnuts with b.u.t.ter or white eggplant drizzled with a spicy oil. You can steam only one vegetable at a time, or two or more at the same time, mixing and matching with what you have.

HOW TO STEAM VEGETABLES.

1. Fill the rice cooker bowl about one-quarter full with tap water (use less water if steaming only soft vegetables that cook quickly, and a bit more water if a longer steaming time is required, as for winter squash). If you start with hot water, it will come to a boil faster. Carefully place the bowl in the machine body, taking care that the bowl is set in properly and level. Position the cooker on the counter away from low cupboards and walls.

2. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. The water will boil in 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Prepare the steamer tray or baskets by coating with nonstick cooking spray or lining with a single layer of cooking parchment, cheesecloth, whole cabbage or chard leaves, or corn husks to prevent the food from sticking or dripping. Arrange the vegetables in the perforated metal steamer tray that sets into the top of the cooker, or in the single or double tier of the plastic steamer basket set. Distribute the vegetables in a single layer and leave a bit of room in various places for the steam to circulate. If steaming two or more vegetables at one time, place the harder vegetables, such as carrots, around the outside, and the more tender, such as green beans, in the center. Or place the tender vegetables in the top basket and the harder vegetables in the bottom basket.

4. When the water comes to a boil, remove the cover and place the tray or baskets on top of the cooker. Quickly replace the cover. Consult the timing guide in the next section and set a manual timer for the appropriate time. The rice cooker will stay at a rolling boil throughout the cooking time. The unit will automatically switch to the Keep Warm cycle or Off should the water evaporate entirely. The water evaporates 1 to 1 inches every 25 to 30 minutes if covered for the entire cooking time.

5.When the timer sounds, remove the cover (away from yourself and keeping your arms away from the top of the cooker to prevent burns) and check the vegetables for doneness by piercing them with the tip of a small knife. Rearrange, if necessary, re-cover, and steam until done. Carefully remove the cover and unplug the unit to completely turn it off. The unit can also be switched to Keep Warm if the vegetables need to sit a while until serving. (They will continue to cook, however, and there must must be some water in the bowl.) be some water in the bowl.) 6. Using tongs, remove the vegetables from the steamer tray or remove the baskets by their handles. Place the vegetables on a serving platter or dinner plates. Remove the tray from the unit, if necessary. Let the water cool in the bowl before carefully lifting and pouring it down the drain or in the garden.

GUIDE TO THE VEGETABLE FAMILIES AND COOKING TIMES.

The following list of vegetables is grouped by like characteristics, giving simple instructions for preparation and a timing guide for steaming. Cooking times are approximate, varying with quant.i.ty, size of pieces, and how much you fill the baskets. Be adventurous: rinse, pare, and trim as needed, then cut into wedges, quarters, julienne, diagonal or straight slices, thick or thin, dice-just keep the pieces uniform in size for even steaming. If you are cutting a lot of vegetables, the food processor or a mandoline can help with slicing, fat dice, and julienne. Remember, denser vegetables, such as roots and tubers, and winter squash, will take longer to cook than, say, beans and pods. Mix and match your vegetable combinations, then serve plain, or with a flavored oil, compound b.u.t.ter, or sauce (see for some ideas). If you are serving the vegetables with a dip, you will steam them for only a few minutes, just until the raw flavor disappears, so the vegetable is still crispy. One to one and a half pounds of a vegetable like zucchini or green beans will serve four people as a side dish; if you need to trim the vegetable, like broccoli or asparagus, you will need two to three pounds for the same number of people. A bunch of greens will feed two to four people.

Stalks and Leafy Greens Timing: Steam stalks until crisp-tender, 6 to 14 minutes. Steam greens until wilted, 4 to 7 minutes. Steam stalks until crisp-tender, 6 to 14 minutes. Steam greens until wilted, 4 to 7 minutes.

[image]Asparagus: Trim or snap off the thick end of the stalk and peel the rest of the stalk if it is thick and you prefer it that way. Leave the stalk whole or cut it on the diagonal into pieces. Serve loose or "tie" the stalks in bundles with a green onion or chive green before steaming.

[image]Celery: Trim the ends and cut the stalk into chunks.

[image]Fennel bulb: Trim away the stalks and fronds and trim the root end. Cut into halves or quarters.

[image]Swiss chard, spinach, bok choy, arugula, beet greens, collard greens, dandelion greens, broccoli rabe, mustard greens, kale, sorrel, Belgian endive (left whole), radicchio, fiddlehead ferns, watercress, grape leaves.

Beans, Pods, and Seeds Timing: Steam until crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes for young green beans, sprouts, and snow peas; 9 to 15 minutes for older beans. Steam corn on the cob for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size and age. Steam until crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes for young green beans, sprouts, and snow peas; 9 to 15 minutes for older beans. Steam corn on the cob for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size and age.

[image]b.u.t.ter beans, fava beans, and lima beans: Remove from the sh.e.l.l.

[image]Corn on the cob: Shuck and steam whole or broken into pieces.

[image]Edamame (fresh soybeans in the pod): Thaw, if frozen, and leave whole.

[image]Green beans, haricots verts, Chinese long beans, and wax beans: Trim away the ends and any tough strings. Leave whole or cut into pieces.

[image]Green peas: Remove the peas from their sh.e.l.ls.

[image]Mung bean sprouts: No prep required.

[image]Okra: Trim the stem end and steam sliced or whole.

[image]Snow peas and sugar snap peas: Remove the string from the stem end.

Vegetables That Are Fruits Timing: Steam until crisp-tender or warmed through, 12 to 15 minutes. Steam until crisp-tender or warmed through, 12 to 15 minutes.

[image]Bell peppers (green, red, yellow, orange): Cut in half and remove the stem, seeds, and white ribs. Steam sliced, in strips, or cut into chunks.

[image]j.a.panese or baby eggplant: Leave the skin on; remove the stem end and cut in half or quarters.

[image]Mild chile peppers (Anaheim, Big Jim, poblano): Cut a lid around the stem and remove the seeds and ribs from the inside.

[image]Tomatillos: Remove the papery coating and cut in half or quarter.

[image]Tomatoes: Cut in half or leave whole.

Cabbage Family and Onions Timing: Steam until tender, 8 to 17 minutes. Steam until tender, 8 to 17 minutes.

[image]Broccoli and cauliflower: Trim off the thick end of the stalk. Break the head into equal-size florets. For broccoli, peel the stalks and cut into matchstick-size pieces.

[image]Brussels sprouts: Leave whole or cut in half or quarters.

[image]Cabbage (green, red, Napa, or Savoy): Cut off the stem end and quarter or coa.r.s.ely shred.

[image]Leeks and green onions: Wash thoroughly, cut off the roots and green tops, and split the white bulb in half. For leeks, wash again, checking between the layers for dirt and grit.

[image]Red onions, white boiling onions, baby pearl onions: Cut off both ends and peel off the papery outer layers. Leave whole or quarter.

Summer Squashes Timing: Steam until crisp-tender, 6 to 12 minutes. Steam until crisp-tender, 6 to 12 minutes.

[image]Cuc.u.mber: Trim ends, peel or not, and seed, if necessary. Cut into chunks, coins, dice, long quarters, or strips.

[image]Zucchini, golden zucchini, ribbed Roman zucchini, Middle Easterntype zucchini, pattypan, yellow crookneck: Trim ends. Cut into chunks, coins, dice, long quarters, or in half lengthwise for strips. Leave baby zucchini and small pattypans whole.

Winter Squashes Timing: Steam until very tender when pierced, 15 to 30 minutes. Steam until very tender when pierced, 15 to 30 minutes.

[image]Acorn, chayote, blue Hubbard, b.u.t.ternut, turban, sugar pumpkin, sweet dumpling, golden nugget, kabocha, spaghetti: Small squashes can be steamed whole (peel, halve, and clean out seeds and fibers after steaming); for large squashes, peel, cut in half lengthwise, and clean out seeds and fibers before steaming. Squashes are also good cut into 1-inch pieces, seeds removed.

Roots and Tubers Timing: Steam until completely tender when pierced, 4 to 15 minutes. Steam all potatoes until completely tender, 18 to 30 minutes, depending on size of pieces. Steam until completely tender when pierced, 4 to 15 minutes. Steam all potatoes until completely tender, 18 to 30 minutes, depending on size of pieces.

[image]Beets: Trim ends and peel. Leave whole (baby beets can have some of the stem left on) or cut into slices or quarters.

[image]Carrots: Trim ends, peel, if desired, and cut into chunks, coins, or strips. Baby carrots should be left whole.

[image]Daikon radish: Trim ends and peel. Cut into chunks, coins, or strips.

[image]Jerusalem artichokes: Same as for potatoes.

[image]Jicama: Same as for potatoes.

[image]Parsnips: Trim ends and peel. Cut into chunks, coins, or strips.

[image]Potatoes (russet or Idaho bakers, red or white boilers, baby creamer new potatoes, purple potatoes, Yukon Gold): Scrub whole potatoes in their jackets or peel, as desired. Steam whole, quartered, or sliced.

[image]Turnips and rutabagas: Same as for potatoes.

[image]Water chestnuts: Trim ends, peel, and slice.

[image]Yams and sweet potatoes: Trim ends and peel. Cut into chunks or slices.

Thistles Timing: Steam until tender, 20 to 45 minutes, depending on size. Steam until tender, 20 to 45 minutes, depending on size.

[image]Artichokes: See recipe. See recipe.

[image]Cardoon: Discard outer ribs and trim away spines and strings if tough. Cut off stalk end and cut ribs like celery.

asparagus with hollandaise sauce A cla.s.sic dish; once you have this version of hollandaise you will never be without a luscious b.u.t.ter sauce again. The sour cream stabilizes it, allowing the sauce to sit in a warm water bath for hours before serving without breaking or you can make the sauce while the asparagus steams. Use on all sorts of steamed vegetables, including broccoli. The best!

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 5 (11/ 4 cups hollandaise)2 pounds fresh asparagus, bottoms snapped offSAUCE4 large egg yolks1 tablespoon fresh lemon juiceDash of saltDash of ground white pepper1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted and still hot cup sour cream (lowfat or Imo imitation sour cream acceptable) 1. Fill the rice cooker bowl about one-quarter full of hot water. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. Coat the steamer basket with nonstick cooking spray and place the asparagus in the basket. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer basket in the cooker and close the cover. Steam until tender, 8 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the stalks.

3. While the asparagus steams, make the sauce. Place the yolks, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a food processor. Process to combine. With the motor running, add the b.u.t.ter in a slow, steady stream, drop by drop at first, until the sauce is creamy and emulsified. Add the sour cream and pulse to incorporate. Pour the sauce into a heat-resistant deep container. Stand the container in a deep saucepan half-full of hot water over low heat until ready to serve, for 1 to 2 hours.

4. Arrange the asparagus on a serving platter and drizzle with the hollandaise.

asparagus with raspberry vinaigrette Raspberries should not be relegated to desserts or cereal toppings. They can be used as a tart flavor accent for savory dishes as well. This raspberry-based vinaigrette is so good you might be tempted to drink it!

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 5 to 62 pounds fresh asparagus, bottoms snapped offVINAIGRETTEOne 10-ounce package frozen raspberries, thawed3 tablespoons raspberry vinegar2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice cup canola oil cup canola oil teaspoon salt 1. Fill the rice cooker bowl about one-quarter full of hot water. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. Coat the steamer basket with nonstick cooking spray and place the asparagus in the basket. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer basket in the cooker and close the cover. Steam until tender, 8 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the stalks.

3. While the asparagus steams, make the vinaigrette. Puree the raspberries in a food processor. Press through a fine sieve to remove the seeds. Return the raspberries to the food processor and add the vinegar, lemon juice, canola oil, and salt. Process until creamy and emulsified. The vinaigrette can be made a day ahead and stored, refrigerated, in a covered container.

4. Arrange the asparagus on a serving platter and drizzle with the vinaigrette.

broccoli with lemon sauce This lemon sauce is really a mayonnaise and a favorite one at that. It is the perfect sauce for fresh broccoli. Once you make homemade mayo, you will understand why this sauce is one of the most beloved in the kitchen. You can subst.i.tute orange juice for the lemon. Because the lemon sauce contains raw egg, make sure you use the freshest egg possible, that you keep it refrigerated until ready to serve, and that you eat this the day you make it. Also, because of the possibility of salmonella, it's best not to serve this to small children, the elderly, or anyone with a compromised immune system.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 6 2 pounds broccoli, cut into equal-size florets and stems peeled and cut into pieces the size of the florets SAUCE1 small clove garlic, peeled1 large egg2 teaspoons Dijon mustard2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice teaspoon saltPinch of cayenne pepper cup olive oil cup canola or vegetable oil 1. Fill the rice cooker bowl about one-quarter full of hot water. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. Coat the steamer basket with nonstick cooking spray and place the broccoli in the basket. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer basket in the cooker and close the cover. Steam until crisp-tender, 12 to 18 minutes.

3. While the broccoli steams, make the sauce. In a food processor with the motor running, drop the garlic in through the feed tube to chop. Stop the machine and add the egg, mustard, lemon juice, salt, and cayenne; pulse a few times to combine. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the oils through the feed tube; the mixture will thicken and be smooth. If you are not using the sauce right away, transfer it to a covered container and refrigerate until ready to serve.

4. Serve small spoonfuls of the lemon sauce on the warm broccoli.

orange-glazed carrots Carrots are extremely versatile and popular. They can be served with a pistachio b.u.t.ter (just grind up some nuts in the food processor with some softened b.u.t.ter), our Balsamic Vegetable Marinade Vegetable Marinade, or a vinaigrette with some fresh chives added, and every version will be as delightful. Here they are tossed with orange marmalade, one of the finest jams for cooking.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 4 to 51 pounds baby carrotsGLAZE5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup orange marmalade cup orange marmalade2 tablespoons dry sherry or Grand MarnierPinch of salt 1. Fill the rice cooker bowl about one-quarter full of hot water. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. Coat the steamer basket with nonstick cooking spray and place the carrots in the basket. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer basket in the cooker and close the cover. Steam until tender, 7 to 10 minutes.

3. While the carrots steam, make the glaze. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add the marmalade and sherry and stir until the marmalade is melted. Keep warm.

4. Remove the carrots from the steamer and add to the skillet. Toss the carrots with the glaze and add the salt. Transfer to a warm serving dish and serve immediately.

carrot and rutabaga puree Pureed vegetables are a joy to eat. You can certainly make one vegetable, such as peas or beets, and puree it, serving the puree on the side of the dinner plate with perhaps another steamed vegetable. Purees are brightly colored and incredibly tasty because of the intensity of the vegetable flavor. They are simple to prepare; just steam, then process in the food processor until smooth. Beth's mom introduced her to this melange of two root vegetables, along with another favorite, mashed carrots and potatoes, which is made in the same manner as this one, proportions of half and half. The rutabaga, like the turnip, is a strong root, so it needs another flavor to mute it. This is a vegetable dish you will not be able to stop eating.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 6 to 81 pound carrots, cut into 2-inch chunks1 pound rutabagas, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter SaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. Fill the rice cooker bowl about one-quarter full of hot water. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. Coat the steamer basket with nonstick cooking spray and place the carrots and rutabagas in the basket. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer basket in the cooker and close the cover. Steam until tender enough for mashing, 20 to 30 minutes.

3. Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl Mash them with the b.u.t.ter using a potato masher or an electric mixer or process until smooth in a food processor. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

steamed corn on the cob There is fresh, white, and very young (oh Silver Queen) corn or corn picked a bit later, yellow and less juicy. Early season, mid-season, or late season, corn on the cob is summer incarnate. On a summer visit to Wisconsin, Beth had a corn feast: an old flatbed truck, filled with local men and boys, drove out to the fields in the early afternoon for picking. Others set up 50-gallon drums, with wood fires built inside and metal bowls that fit on top, filled with water and ready to heat. The fresh-picked corn was boiled in its husks, then put in old insulated coolers to keep until eating. Large coffee cans were filled with melted b.u.t.ter. You got your ear, pulled down the husks, and, holding it like a lollipop, dipped it upside down into the melted b.u.t.ter. Dripping with b.u.t.ter, it was hard to stop eating at four ears. The best ever and Beth grew up in Jersey! Shuck the ears by holding the stem end over the garbage can and discard the messy silks and husk before this simple steaming.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularCorn on the cob bought at a farmer's market or roadside stand, 1 to 2 ears for each diner, huskedUnsalted b.u.t.terSalt or salt-free herb blend, such as Mrs. Dash 1. Fill the rice cooker bowl about one-quarter full of hot water. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. Coat the steamer baskets with nonstick cooking spray or line with a layer of corn husks. Arrange the whole ears of corn in the steamer baskets, side by side, with a bit of room in between and broken in half to fill the ends, if desired. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer baskets in the cooker and close the cover. Steam until tender, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size and age of the corn.

3. Remove the corn from the steamer and serve immediately with b.u.t.ter and a shaker of salt.

cauliflower with a puree of peas If a cauliflower is not perfectly fresh, it can be pretty unappetizing after cooking. So look for a pure creamy head of cauliflower with no spots, which are a sign that it has been around for a while. Sauced with this puree, it is, by our standards, one of the tastiest ways to serve the beautiful flower of the cabbage family. Adapted from one of the best Junior League cookbooks, San Francisco a la Carte San Francisco a la Carte (Doubleday, 1979). (Doubleday, 1979).