four-grain flakes YIELD: About 5 cups (ten 1-cup cooked servings)1 cup rolled (old-fashioned) oats (not quick-cooking)1 cup wheat flakes1 cup rye flakes1 cup barley flakes1 cup minced dried apple1 tablespoon apple pie spice In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients; mix well. Store in a covered container or plastic bag at room temperature.

your own old-fashioned granola This is Beth's friend Dan Snow's famous granola. He got the recipe from a friend he met at a pottery workshop, who brought it to a potluck buffet. The group all ate big bowls doused with cold milk for dessert. After that, it was often a welcome and coveted gift in an old wide-mouth peanut b.u.t.ter jar. Luckily, Beth got the recipe from him, handwritten and stuck to the side of the kitchen shelf with a thumbtack, and is now giving it to you. The secret to making excellent granola is to use very fresh, high-quality rolled oats and brans. This recipe makes a big batch, so store it in an airtight plastic container or jars.

YIELD: About 14 cupsDRY INGREDIENTS6 cups (1 pound) rolled (old-fashioned) oats (not quick-cooking)1 cups sh.e.l.led sunflower seeds1 cup ( pound) wheat bran1 cup ( pound) wheat germ1 cup ( pound) oat bran1 cup instant nonfat dry milk1 cup almonds or other nuts, chopped or slivered1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut cup sesame seeds1 tablespoon ground cinnamonWET INGREDIENTS1 cup mild honey1 cup cold-pressed canola oil1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract1 teaspoon pure almond extract1 cups raisins, dried currants, or dried cherries1 cups dried apricots or other favorite dried fruit, such as figs, chopped 1. Preheat the oven to 250F. Line 2 large baking sheets with aluminum foil or parchment paper. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, combine all the dry ingredients and stir well. In a medium-size bowl, combine the wet ingredients and beat with a small whisk. Combine the wet and dry ingredients; stir until evenly moistened.

3. Spread the mixture evenly over the baking sheets. Bake on the center rack, stirring every 20 to 25 minutes with a spatula for even toasting, until pale golden and dry, about 1 hour. When done, the granola will slide off the spatula and be a very light color. Do not let it brown, as the granola continues to cook while cooling and will become too strongly flavored.

4. While hot, stir the raisins and apricots into the granola on the baking sheets and place the sheets on wire racks to cool completely. The mixture will become crisp as it cools. Transfer to a tightly covered container and store in the refrigerator indefinitely.

triple-oat granola with dried cranberries This is a dark amber, deep-flavored, lowfat cereal. It is as good hot as it is cold.

YIELD: About 9 cupsDRY INGREDIENTS3 cups ( pound) rolled (old-fashioned) oats (not quick-cooking)3 cups ( pound) quick-cooking Irish oats1 cup sh.e.l.led sunflower seeds cup oat branWET INGREDIENTS cup mild honey cup pure maple syrup cup water cup firmly packed light brown sugar cup cold-pressed canola oil1 cup ( pound) honey-toasted wheat germ1 cups dried cranberries 1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Line 2 large baking sheets with aluminum foil or parchment paper. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, combine all the dry ingredients and mix well. In a small saucepan, combine all the wet ingredients and bring to a gentle boil. Pour the hot mixture over the grains and stir well.

3. Spread the granola evenly over the baking sheets (you will have to bake this in batches). Bake on the center rack, stirring every 10 minutes, until evenly golden in color, about 30 minutes.

4. While hot, stir the wheat germ and cranberries into the granola on the baking sheets and place the sheets on wire racks to cool completely. Transfer to a tightly covered container and store in the refrigerator indefinitely.

RICE PORRIDGE.

The Porridge cycle on your rice cooker was invented for a food that many in the United States have never even heard of, much less eaten: rice porridge, a staple in much of Asia. It's served for breakfast, for snacks, and as an easy-to-digest and restorative food for the sick, whether they are seriously ill or just dealing with a pa.s.sing case of the blahs. Called okai okai or or okayu okayu by the j.a.panese and by the j.a.panese and shi-fan shi-fan, congee congee (the second syllable is p.r.o.nounced the same as in "gee whiz"), or (the second syllable is p.r.o.nounced the same as in "gee whiz"), or jook jook (p.r.o.nounced juk) by the Chinese, rice porridge takes myriad forms. At its most basic, it is simply rice cooked in lots of water until it forms an oatmeal-like ma.s.s. It can be served absolutely plain, a shimmering, pure white bowl of creamy comfort. Even the salt is optional. From there, the symphony of creativity begins. (p.r.o.nounced juk) by the Chinese, rice porridge takes myriad forms. At its most basic, it is simply rice cooked in lots of water until it forms an oatmeal-like ma.s.s. It can be served absolutely plain, a shimmering, pure white bowl of creamy comfort. Even the salt is optional. From there, the symphony of creativity begins.

A j.a.panese cook may pour a splash of green tea over the rice, or nestle one of the tart pickled plums called umeboshi into the porridge, or top the bowl with something savory: seasoned shiitake mushrooms , homemade or purchased pickled or preserved vegetables such as cuc.u.mber, daikon, eggplant, or Napa cabbage, some thin shreds of the crisp seaweed nori (cut a sheet designed for wrapping sushi with a pair of sharp scissors), or some other tidbit from the pantry or the fridge. Another type of j.a.panese-style rice porridge, called zosui zosui, is made with leftover rice.

A few slices of green onion are almost always scattered atop Chinese-style rice porridge. A Chinese cook of Mandarin heritage might set out a small array of toppings for plain porridge, anything from shreds of dried pork (called pork sung, it's sold in plastic tubs in Asian markets) to pungent pickled or preserved vegetables (you'll find a huge variety of these in jars in Asian markets) to the startlingly colored but absolutely delicious preserved eggs. To serve preserved eggs, peel as with hard-boiled eggs by cracking the sh.e.l.l all over by rolling gently on the counter. Remove the sh.e.l.l to reveal the black jelly-like "white." Rinse the egg under cool running water and dry it. Slice the egg into wedges or chop it. Stir the egg into fresh porridge. One egg is enough for at least two people.

Cantonese-style porridge is often prepared with broth rather than water and frequently features savory ingredients cooked along with the rice. Pork with pieces of preserved egg is the type most commonly served at dim sum restaurants. One Cantonese restaurant near our homes has five porridges on their regular menu, featuring everything from aromatic and deeply flavorful roast duck to delicate seafood. We've included just one recipe here.

The rice cooker Porridge cycle makes perfect rice porridge, yet, because the feature is relatively new (it debuted in the fuzzy logic machines), even experienced rice cooker owners may never have tried it. "It is just the way I always make it on the stove," one friend exclaimed in pleased amazement when we asked her to evaluate rice cooker porridge. As always, we recommend starting out with the proportions of water and rice recommended by the manufacturer of your rice cooker. If you like the consistency thinner, try using a bit less rice; if you like it thicker, use a bit less water. Write down the proportions you like best, but be sure not to use more water than the maximum amount of water recommended by the manufacturer for your particular machine. And be careful not to accidentally program your machine for the regular cycle. Either error will lead to a boil over. And try to eat rice porridge right after making it. As it stands on the Keep Warm cycle, it will thicken and grow starchy. Please note: These rice porridges cannot cannot be made in the on/off machines. be made in the on/off machines.

What kind of rice should be used for porridge? j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain white rice is the most common choice; it produces a smooth porridge that almost glistens. Long-grain white rice yields a somewhat rougher porridge. Sticky rice porridge is a bit chewier. Some cooks use a blend of two or all three. A tablespoon or two of sticky rice, if you have it, is a nice addition; just put it into your measuring cup before you fill it with short-, medium- or long-grain rice.

We have included some recipes here, but you should feel free to experiment. Just don't add too much of any other ingredient: The rice should be the star.

plain rice porridge Like saltine crackers and flat 7-Up, plain porridge is renowned as a get-well food in Asian and Asian-American families. Or dress it up by stirring in flavorful extras, such as Quick Pickled Cabbage (recipe follows), but Beth likes it just plain.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 2 to 4 cup (1 rice cooker cup) j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain rice4 cups waterSalt (optional) 1. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

2. Place the drained rice and water in the rice cooker bowl; stir gently to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, stir the porridge with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Serve immediately, ladling the porridge into small bowls. Add salt to taste, if desired.

quick pickled cabbage These one-day j.a.panese pickles are called asa zuke asa zuke, or morning pickles, because they are easily made in the morning and served for that night's dinner. They are a slightly crunchy accompaniment to plain porridge or to other dishes. This recipe makes enough pickles to eat with one recipe of Plain Rice Porridge.

2 cups Napa cabbage cut into -inch-wide strips1 teaspoons sea salt 1. In a gla.s.s or other nonreactive bowl, mix together the cabbage strips and salt. Weight down the cabbage by placing a small plate inside the bowl. Top the plate with one or two 1-pound cans of food or other items weighing about 2 pounds. After about 15 minutes, remove the weights and stir the cabbage again. Return the weights and let the pickles sit for at least 6 hours at room temperature in a spot out of direct sunlight.

2. When you are ready to serve the pickles, drain them. If they are too salty for your taste, rinse them lightly in cool water.

quick pickled cuc.u.mbers: Subst.i.tute 2 cups cuc.u.mber cut into spears about 3 inches long for the cabbage, and use only teaspoon salt. If you are using American or other seedy cuc.u.mbers, scoop out and discard the seeds. j.a.panese cuc.u.mbers or other cukes with tender skins do not need to be peeled; if you are using American cuc.u.mbers, peel the skin entirely, or peel most of it away so that only thin strips remain. Subst.i.tute 2 cups cuc.u.mber cut into spears about 3 inches long for the cabbage, and use only teaspoon salt. If you are using American or other seedy cuc.u.mbers, scoop out and discard the seeds. j.a.panese cuc.u.mbers or other cukes with tender skins do not need to be peeled; if you are using American cuc.u.mbers, peel the skin entirely, or peel most of it away so that only thin strips remain.

rice and sweet potato porridge Sweet potatoes are a wintertime fixture in j.a.pan, where they are sold by vendors on the street. This recipe for an almost-plain porridge livened up with tender sweet potatoes comes from Julie's friend Sharon Noguchi. If you are ailing, you'd want to eat this plain. If you're not, you might like it with a sprinkle of toasted j.a.panese sesame seeds or green onion, or a drizzle of sesame oil.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 2 to 4 cup (1 rice cooker cup) j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain white rice1 cup peeled and chopped sweet potato (chop the pieces about inch on a side; you will need about 1 small sweet potato)5 cups waterSalt (optional) 1. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

2. Place the drained rice, sweet potato, and water in the rice cooker bowl. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, stir the porridge with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Serve immediately, ladling the porridge into small bowls. Add salt to taste, if desired.

savory rice porridge with shiitake and preserved egg This is our interpretation of a Cantonese-style rice porridge. If you don't like preserved egg, by all means leave it out.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 2 to 44 medium-size dried shiitake mushrooms cup (1 rice cooker cup) j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain rice5 cups chicken stock1 medium-size carrot, diced cup shrimp, cooked or raw, sh.e.l.led and deveined cup frozen peas1 preserved egg (optional), peeled, rinsed, and cut into 8 to 12 wedges, the largest wedges halvedSalt and ground white pepper, if unseasoned stock is used1 green onion, white and tender green parts, sliced, for garnish 1. Place the mushrooms in a small bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 30 minutes. Or partially cover the bowl with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 2 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, remove the stems, and cut the caps into thin slices.

2. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

3. Place the mushrooms, rice, stock, and carrot in the rice cooker bowl. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

4. About 5 minutes before the cycle completes, open the cover and scatter the shrimp and peas over the porridge. (The time will vary according to manufacturer; experience will tell you how long the Porridge cycle is on your rice cooker, or on some models, there is a digital countdown for the final few minutes.) Close the cover and let the cycle complete.

5. Just before serving, add the preserved egg, if using, and season with salt and pepper, if needed; stir to combine. Serve the porridge immediately, topped with the green onion.

thanks giving jook There's a Thanksgiving joke in many Asian-American families that goes something like this: "Forget the turkey. We don't even like turkey. We only have turkey so that we can make jook jook afterward." And, even though it's a joke, there's no question that turkey afterward." And, even though it's a joke, there's no question that turkey jook jook is terrific, a substantial yet healthful meal-in-a- bowl that tastes especially good after an over indulgent holiday dinner. In fact, you don't really have to wait for Thanksgiving. Julie's friend Grace Liu suggests making it any time a big party leaves you with a turkey or duck carca.s.s, a big ham bone, or some other leftover that is just too good to throw away. is terrific, a substantial yet healthful meal-in-a- bowl that tastes especially good after an over indulgent holiday dinner. In fact, you don't really have to wait for Thanksgiving. Julie's friend Grace Liu suggests making it any time a big party leaves you with a turkey or duck carca.s.s, a big ham bone, or some other leftover that is just too good to throw away.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 4 to 6STOCK1 medium-size turkey carca.s.s About 12 cups water1 small onion, quarteredOne 1-inch piece fresh ginger, cut into 4 pieces and each piece lightly crushedRICE cup (1 rice cooker cup) j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain white rice2 cups shredded Napa cabbage1 cup diced carrot (about 2 medium-size carrots)Some or all of the following, for topping: sliced green onions, chopped fresh cilantro leaves, peeled and grated fresh ginger, sesame oil, a few drops of soy sauce, salt 1. Make the stock. Put the carca.s.s into a soup pot, breaking or cutting it into 2 to 4 pieces if necessary to fit. Add the water, using more if necessary so that all or most of the carca.s.s is submerged. Add the onion and ginger. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, cover the pot, and let the stock simmer for 2 hours, until the meat is falling away from the bones. If you are not making jook jook right away, let the stock cool, uncovered, then cover the pot and refrigerate it for several hours or overnight. right away, let the stock cool, uncovered, then cover the pot and refrigerate it for several hours or overnight.

2. When you are ready to make the jook jook, skim off any fat from the surface of the stock. Strain the stock. Dice or shred 1 cup of the turkey meat and reserve it. Discard the rest of the meat. Discard the turkey bones and skin, onion, and ginger.

3. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear..

4. Place the drained rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add 4 cups of the stock, or use a combination of stock and water if there is not enough stock. Add the cabbage and carrot. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

5. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, stir in the diced turkey; let the jook jook steam for 10 minutes. Serve immediately, with any or all of the toppings. steam for 10 minutes. Serve immediately, with any or all of the toppings.

OATMEAL AND ROLLED OATSRolled oats are comfort food and have been gracing the morning table throughout the Western world for centuries. Food writer Elizabeth Schneider aptly describes the flavor of "lusciously rich oats" as "a cross between wheat and brown rice-with no trace of stickiness." The flattened little flakes with the pale brown seam down the center have had a revival in some new diets, since the compounds in oats have been found to lower serum blood cholesterol. It seems like everyone is eating oatmeal these days, both in summer and winter. Rolled oats are one of the easiest, and most familiar, grains to find on a super market shelf in the breakfast cereal section. Commercial oats-such as Quaker Oats, and McCann's Irish Oatmeal (which is unbelievably sweet and delicate) in a fetching green-and-gold box or can-are very easy to find in super markets in both regular and quick-cooking varieties. Natural food stores carry organic brands that will amaze you with their texture and nutty flavor, such as The Silver Palate thick-cut rolled oats. Our local dairy and grain specialty grocery carries a large barrel filled with delicious fresh rolled oats from Grain Millers in Washington State. Rolled oats are one of the easiest, and most familiar, grains to find on a super market shelf in the breakfast cereal section. Commercial oats-such as Quaker Oats, and McCann's Irish Oatmeal (which is unbelievably sweet and delicate) in a fetching green-and-gold box or can-are very easy to find in super markets in both regular and quick-cooking varieties. Natural food stores carry organic brands that will amaze you with their texture and nutty flavor, such as The Silver Palate thick-cut rolled oats. Our local dairy and grain specialty grocery carries a large barrel filled with delicious fresh rolled oats from Grain Millers in Washington State.Since oats are rich in antioxidant fats, they have an indefinite shelf life; you can keep them in your kitchen cupboard for a year in a closed container.Oat groats are whole hulled oats still containing the bran and germ. Prepare these as you would cooked rice, or eat as a rugged hot breakfast cereal. are whole hulled oats still containing the bran and germ. Prepare these as you would cooked rice, or eat as a rugged hot breakfast cereal.Steel-cut oats are groat kernels cut into two or three uniform chunks by steel bits and are used for making breakfast porridge. Scotch-cut, Irish-cut oats, or Irish oats, are the same size as steel-cut oats and are cut by stone buhrs; they make a creamier porridge than the bits cut by the steel bits. Finely ground, this style of oats is similar in texture to polenta after a long, slow cooking. are groat kernels cut into two or three uniform chunks by steel bits and are used for making breakfast porridge. Scotch-cut, Irish-cut oats, or Irish oats, are the same size as steel-cut oats and are cut by stone buhrs; they make a creamier porridge than the bits cut by the steel bits. Finely ground, this style of oats is similar in texture to polenta after a long, slow cooking.Rolled oats, "old-fashioned oats" to the Quaker Oats people and thick-cut "oatflakes" in Britain, are crushed and pressed from whole hulled and steamed oat groats by mechanical rollers into uniform flakes. They come in a variety of thicknesses, from medium to thick, to make the familiar slick and rich oatmeal breakfast cereal. Of the three types of rolled oats, these take the longest time to cook properly.Quick-cooking rolled oats are made from groats that have been cut into small pieces, then thinly rolled and slightly toasted during rolling so that they cook really fast. We are pa.s.sionate about the imported McCann's Quick-Cooking Irish Oatmeal, which is made from whole-grain groats. are made from groats that have been cut into small pieces, then thinly rolled and slightly toasted during rolling so that they cook really fast. We are pa.s.sionate about the imported McCann's Quick-Cooking Irish Oatmeal, which is made from whole-grain groats.Instant oats, which are different than quick-cooking oats, are cut groats that have been rolled, precooked, dried, and mixed with sugar, flavoring agents, salt, and wheat germ. These become a very different ingredient than just rolled oats, so do not use them in slow-cook porridge recipes.

beans and LEGUMES Pet.i.te French Green Lentils Hummus Frijoles Negros Italian White Beans Jacquie's Rancho Beans Sesame and Tamari Soybeans Hearty Split Pea Soup with Turkey Sausage Yellow Split Pea Soup with Fresh Lemon Old-Fashioned Black Bean Soup Turkey Chili with Baby White Beans Vegetarian Black Bean Chili One of the best ways to consume complex carbohydrates, fiber, and vegetable protein in a low-calorie, no-cholesterol package is with beans and legumes. Along with cereal grains, beans are part of our earliest culinary roots, reaching back over 8,000 years. Easily dried for preservation purposes, beans were eaten extensively during long sea voyages and winter months when fresh food was at a premium. They pack a lot of protein into a little package. They are as much a staple today, and for good reason: They are a very versatile food. Beans are notoriously economical: 1 pound of dried beans (approximately 2 cups) will yield about 5 cups of cooked beans. They tend to show up mostly on winter menus, although that is fast changing; there is nothing quite like a cold cabernet vinegar and olive oil vinaigrettemarinated white bean salad in the summer!

In every cuisine, in every climate, there are delicious and excitingly flavored bean dishes: Indian dal, Mexican refried pinto beans, Middle Eastern chickpea falafels, Cuban black beans, Southwest chili, the New England maple-infused baked beans, Italian pasta e f.a.gioli pasta e f.a.gioli, even the beloved British baked beans on toast. The lima, native to Guatemala and called haba haba in Spanish, was found in archaeological digs of Incantombs, making it one of the oldest cultivated vegetables (limas were exported from Peru during the California gold rush to feed the miners). Lentils-the oldest cultivated Old World legume and a nonmeat staple for European Catholics during Lent-come in a variety of sizes and colors, from the red lentil (a favorite in India) to the lovely, diminutive French green lentil, in Spanish, was found in archaeological digs of Incantombs, making it one of the oldest cultivated vegetables (limas were exported from Peru during the California gold rush to feed the miners). Lentils-the oldest cultivated Old World legume and a nonmeat staple for European Catholics during Lent-come in a variety of sizes and colors, from the red lentil (a favorite in India) to the lovely, diminutive French green lentil, lentilles vertes lentilles vertes, imported from the lentil capital of the world, Le Puy, and great in salads. And what would ca.s.soulet be without navy beans along with the sweet Italian sausage and confit of duck?

Heirloom seed growers dote on many old varieties of beans that were enjoyed long ago. Beautiful, delicately flavored Christmas limas, black runner beans, Swedish bush beans, and appaloosas end up alongside commonplace red kidney beans, pinto beans, and black-eyed peas. The fava bean, an Old World bean that was as prevalent in early Rome as it was in colonial American home gardens centuries later, is the darling of the restaurant scene.

The term bean bean refers not only to regular beans, but to other legumes and peas as well. Beans can be consumed in both the fresh and dried forms. The fully mature ones are never eaten raw, as they are completely indigestible uncooked. Once you embrace the world of beans, you will be amazed at the vast variety available and the wide range of flavors and textures. And, of course there is a veritable cornucopia of shapes, colors, and sizes! During the summer months you may also come across fresh beans-always called fresh sh.e.l.l beans-in the produce section of the supermarket or your farmer's market. Fresh beans will always cook much faster than dried beans and need no soaking. Many discriminating cooks use only organically grown dried beans since they claim that they taste better. refers not only to regular beans, but to other legumes and peas as well. Beans can be consumed in both the fresh and dried forms. The fully mature ones are never eaten raw, as they are completely indigestible uncooked. Once you embrace the world of beans, you will be amazed at the vast variety available and the wide range of flavors and textures. And, of course there is a veritable cornucopia of shapes, colors, and sizes! During the summer months you may also come across fresh beans-always called fresh sh.e.l.l beans-in the produce section of the supermarket or your farmer's market. Fresh beans will always cook much faster than dried beans and need no soaking. Many discriminating cooks use only organically grown dried beans since they claim that they taste better.

While canned beans are convenient, home-cooked beans have a completely different texture. Cooking beans takes time, not effort, and the electric rice cooker does a great job in lieu of cooking them in a pan atop the stove, where the risk of sticking and scorching is ever present. The rice cooker acts like a slow cooker; simmering the contents rather than boiling it makes for a more tender bean that will hold its natural shape. And there's no stirring! Since beans should always be completely covered with water during the extended cooking time, the rice cooker environment conveniently provides a minimal amount of evaporation, just like the olla olla, the traditional earthenware bean pot of the Americas. As with all the rice cooker functions, cleanup is a snap.

CLICK TO SEE THE BASICS : SOAKING BEANS.

Beans can be cooked alone and then used as an ingredient in other dishes, or you can add onions, garlic, celery, herbs, and salt during the last half hour of cooking and have a ready-to-eat entree. Since the rice cooker is also conducive to making soups, split peas and lentils can easily be made into yummy slow-cooked potages and chilis. One of our favorite ways to eat freshly cooked beans is simply to drizzle them with a fruity extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, sprinkle over some coa.r.s.e sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and serve them in a shallow soup bowl with an oversized spoon, with fresh tomatoes and some fresh country bread or fresh flour tortillas on the side to sop up all the thick juices in the bottom of the bowl.

HOW TO COOK BEANS.

1. Place the beans in the rice cooker bowl and cover with the amount of water specified in the Cooking Beans chart. Some cooks like to add a bay leaf, a leaf or two of fresh sage, or a teaspoon of epazote (an herb found in Latin markets) to help break down the natural starches while cooking. Please, no salt or acid ingredients (tomatoes or wine) at this time, as they toughen and shrivel the beans, as well as increase the cooking time; salt will inhibit cooking.

2. Set the rice cooker for the regular cycle in the fuzzy logic or on/off machine. The rice cooker will bring the water to a boil, then stay at a rolling high simmer. You will set a timer for the amount of time specified in the recipe. When the timer sounds, check the beans; you want them to be tender, yet a bit firm at the same time. Don't worry if you need as much as an hour longer than the cooking time specified. You want enough liquid to keep the beans submerged the entire cooking time, turning into that wonderful thick, velvety sauce. If you have to replenish the water at any time, be sure to add boiling water.

3. When the beans are tender, turn off the rice cooker and carefully open the cover. Carefully remove the rice cooker pan with oven mitts. Add the salt and any other seasonings. If you add wine or sherry, cook for a few minutes longer to let the alcohol cook off and set the flavor.

4. Now the beans are ready to eat (go ahead and dip some fresh bread or flour tortillas into the pot), to be refrigerated, or to be used as an ingredient in another recipe. Let cool to room temperature, then store in a covered container for up to five days or freeze for up to six months. Beans tend to improve in flavor a day or so after cooking.

COOKING TIMES.

While beans are often categorized by whether they were first grown in the Old or New World, I like how chef and food doyenne Madeleine Kamman denotes them: by color.

The white varieties include garbanzos (also called chickpeas or cecis), small plump navy beans, soldier beans, plain white beans (known as haricots), Great Northern beans, black-eyed peas, and b.u.t.ter beans. White beans take the longest time to cook.

The rose-pink to red-black varieties include red kidney beans, small pink (a small kidney) and red beans, black or turtle beans, black runner beans, pinto beans (nicknamed the Mexican strawberry because of their mottled coloring) and its hybrids like rattle snake and appaloosa beans, and cranberry beans, the traditional New England bean used in succotash.

The green varieties include all types of large and baby limas and flageolets. The lighter the color of the bean, the more delicate the flavor; the darker the bean, the sweeter, more robust, and earthier its taste.

The following chart is based on using 1 cup of dried beans or legumes with at least 3 inches of water to cover in the rice cooker. Beans can also be cooked in chicken or vegetable stock, which tastes especially nice if the beans will be eaten as a side dish. If the beans are to be used in another dish, such as chili or a ca.s.soulet, you will cook them al dente rather than totally soft because they will be cooked further. It is important to remember that the beans should always be completely covered with water throughout the entire cooking time, because the cooker cooks at a high simmer and some evaporation is expected. Beans are done when tender and most of the cooking liquid has been absorbed.

Cooking Beans You can use a medium-size rice cooker for this measurement or a large rice cooker and double the proportions. If you have a small rice cooker, cook only cup of beans at a time. Be sure the total amount of ingredients does not exceed the limitations of your rice cooker's capacity. These times are meant as guidelines, as variables such as hard or soft water, the mineral composition of the soil where the beans were grown, and the age of the beans can affect cooking times, sometimes significantly. Remember that beans and legumes always take slightly longer to cook at higher alt.i.tudes.

pet.i.te french green lentils Serve these delightful lentils, known as lentilles du Puy lentilles du Puy, as a side dish with roasted or broiled meats and poultry. They are especially delicious as a bed for Cornish game hens or pheasant during the winter holidays. While this lentil is a special import from France, there is now a domestic grown variety that is every bit as good.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: 2 cups; serves 41 cup dried pet.i.te French green lentils, rinsed2 cups chicken or vegetable stock3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter SaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. Place the lentils and stock in the rice cooker bowl. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 40 minutes.

2. At the end of cooking, the liquid will all be absorbed. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle or the timer sounds, remove the bowl from the rice cooker and stir in the b.u.t.ter and salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

hummus Hummus is a mashed puree of chickpeas, garlic, olive oil, and lemon that is immensely popular in the Middle East. People who love it always make it from scratch, cooking their own chickpeas. It can be served as a dip or thinned and served as a sauce for foods such as falafel. Some people like their hummus really garlicky, others like it milder. If you like it with garlic, be prepared to eat it within two days for the best flavor.

To serve, make a depression in the top of the hummus and drizzle with olive oil until it runs down the sides and pools in the side of the dish. Place spears of romaine lettuce all around for dipping. Give each person a whole fresh pita bread to tear and scoop up this dip.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10cup) rice cooker; on/off or fuzzy logicCYCLE: RegularYIELD: 3 cups; serves 12 as an appetizer1 cup dried chickpeas, picked over, rinsed, soaked in water to cover (overnight or quick-soak method), and drainedSalt2 to 3 cloves garlic, or more to taste, peeled to cup fresh lemon juice cup sesame paste (tahini) cup extra virgin olive oilPinch of cayenne pepper 1. Place the chickpeas in the rice cooker bowl and cover with 3 inches of water. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 hours. During the last half hour of cooking, season with salt to taste.

2. When the timer sounds, test the beans for doneness. Drain the beans, reserving the liquid.

3. In a food processor, finely chop the garlic. Add the warm chickpeas and pulse to mash them. Add the lemon juice, sesame paste, olive oil, and cayenne and, while the machine is running, slowly add 1.3 cup of the reserved cooking liquid through the feed tube until you get a fluffy, smooth consistency. Taste and adjust the flavors.

4. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately, or refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve.

frijoles negros Black beans, also known as turtle beans, are the cornerstone of Central and South American soul food, just like the pinto bean is in Mexican cooking. Once a specialty item, we now see black beans in every supermarket. They have an appealing, rather addictive, natural flavor and are easy to digest. If you like a smoky edge to your black beans, add two canned chipotle chiles. I like to float a few tablespoons of olive oil on top of the cooked beans before serving.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/of f cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: About 4 cups; serves 81 pound (about 2 cups) dried black beans, picked over, rinsed, soaked in water to cover (overnight or quick-soak method), and drained1 medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped1 medium-size green or red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped1 or 2 fresh jalapeno chiles, seeded and minced teaspoon ground c.u.min1 bay leaf cup tomato sauce or salsa2 quarts water1 tablespoon red wine vinegarSalt 1. Place the beans, onion, bell pepper, jalapeno, c.u.min, bay leaf, tomato sauce or salsa, and water in the rice cooker bowl. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 hours.

2. When the timer sounds, you will have plenty of liquid with the cooked beans. Taste the beans for doneness. Remove the bay leaf. Stir in the vinegar, season with salt to taste, and serve immediately.

italian white beans The large oval white kidney bean, also called cannellini, is a favorite home-cooked bean. It has a delicate, sweet flavor and cooks up nice and firm. These beans are a great side dish for fish and meats.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: About 3 cups; serves 6 cup olive oil1 medium-size yellow onion, cut into 8 wedges1 large piece prosciutto rind or 1 small smoked ham hock1 large carrot, cut into thick slices2 stalks celery, with leaves, cut into chunks1 cup dried cannellini beans, picked over, rinsed, soaked in water to cover (overnight or quick-soak method), and drained3 cups chicken stock2 bay leaves Pinch of dried thyme Pinch of dried thymeSaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. Place the olive oil, onion, and meat in the rice cooker bowl. Set the rice cooker for the regular or Quick Cook cycle and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring a few times. Add the carrot and celery and cook for another 10 minutes to soften slightly, stirring a few times.

2. Add the beans, then add the chicken stock and herbs; stir to combine. Close the cover, reset for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 to 1 hours.

3. When the timer sounds, remove the meat and bay leaves and taste for doneness. Season the beans with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

jacquie 'srancho beans Frijoles-beans, refried beans, or leftover beans-are mainstays of old California rancho cooking. This is the real thing from food writer Jacquie McMahan, who grew up on a Bay Area rancho, or Spanish land grant. You never add any special flavorings and every meal offers them, especially barbecues and family holidays. Traditionally cooked in an earthenware bean pot called a cazuela cazuela, the rice cooker mimics its lovely slow-cooked quality that makes great beans. You will need a cast-iron skillet (10- to 12-inch is perfect) or other nice, heavy skillet to finish cooking the beans.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 61 pound (about 2 cups) dried pink or pinto beans, picked over, rinsed, soaked for 4 hours in water to cover (or use quick-soak method), and drained6 cups water1 medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped3 cloves garlic, chopped1 heaping teaspoon chili powder1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 to 3 tablespoons canola or olive oil 1. Place the beans in the rice cooker bowl and cover with the water. Add the onion, garlic, and chili powder. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 hours. Add the salt and pepper during the last half hour of cooking.

2. Heat the oil in a large cast-iron or other heavy metal skillet over medium heat. Ladle in 1 cup of the beans and about cup of their liquid. Simmer over medium to medium-high heat to evaporate the liquid, mashing the beans with the back of an oversized metal spoon. When the mixture is very thick, add another cup of beans and cup liquid, cooking and mashing. Continue until you have mashed all of the beans and used up at least half of the cooking liquid (reserve the excess so you can add some later if the beans are too thick).

3. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the beans until thick, but not as thick as refried beans, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately or let cool to room temperature and refrigerate, covered. The beans will thicken further as they cool.

refried beans: To make refried beans, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil over medium heat in a medium-size heavy skillet and add 2 cups of the cold rancho beans. Let cook until they sizzle around the edges. Sprinkle with cheese and serve. To make refried beans, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil over medium heat in a medium-size heavy skillet and add 2 cups of the cold rancho beans. Let cook until they sizzle around the edges. Sprinkle with cheese and serve.

sesame and tamari soybeans Anyone familiar with Ta.s.sajara Hot Springs and Ed Brown's wonderful cookbooks might already be a fan of these tahini-glazed hot soybeans. Soybeans come in a few colors, but the buff yellow is the most familiar. They are the strongest flavored bean, so they are not served very often unless you know your diners, although roasted soybeans are tasty as a garnish like toasted nuts. A vegetarian delight and nice side dish for lamb, beef, or tofu.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) or large (10 cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/of f cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 41 cup dried soybeans, picked over, rinsed, soaked in water to cover (overnight or quick-soak method), and drained4 cups water cup sesame paste (tahini)3 to 4 tablespoons tamari (a thick, strong soy sauce), to your tasteFreshly ground black pepper 1. Place the soybeans in the rice cooker bowl and cover with the water. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 2 hours.

2. When the timer sounds, test the beans for doneness; if still firm, cook for an additional 20 to 30 minutes. Drain off any excess cooking liquid into a measuring cup.

3. In a small bowl, thin the sesame paste with some of the hot cooking liquid and add the tamari. Pour this mixture over the hot beans and toss until evenly coated, using a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Adjust the consistency with some more cooking liquid if the beans seem too dry.

4. Serve hot, with tamari and a pepper mill for seasoning to taste.

hearty split pea soup with turkey sausage This is a great lunchtime food. Hearty, nutritious, and low in fat, it packs a garlic punch yet is mild enough for children to enjoy. We developed the recipe when spring garlic was in season. Spring, or immature, garlic is just beginning to divide into cloves; rinse it, peel away any discolorations on the outer layer, and chop it. There are no papery skins to discard. If you can't find the mild spring garlic, use regular garlic, the freshest you can find.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 62 cups dried green split peas, picked over and rinsed6 cups water (7 cups, if you like a thin soup) pound turkey kielbasa, split lengthwise and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices1 medium-size yellow onion, chopped1 head spring garlic or 6 cloves regular garlic, chopped2 medium-size carrots, halved lengthwise and cut into -inch-thick slices2 large stalks celery, chopped1 teaspoons salt, or more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepperAbout 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme1 bay leaf 1. Place all the ingredients in the rice cooker bowl. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 hour.

2. When the timer sounds, check the peas for doneness; they should be very soft. Taste the soup for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper, if needed. Remove the bay leaf before serving.

yellow split pea soup with fresh lemon Beth has been making some version of this soup, originally from the first edition of The Ta.s.sajara Recipe Book The Ta.s.sajara Recipe Book (Shambala, 1985), since she got the book. Beth's dear friend Qui, who made lots of Indian-style food when she cooked in an ashram in the early 1960s, showed Beth how to cook basmati rice and make a spicy dal to top it. This soup is a simplified version of the dal. It is especially easy if you have two rice cookers so you can make the soup and rice at the same time; otherwise, just reheat either the rice or soup. Everyone asks for this recipe. (Shambala, 1985), since she got the book. Beth's dear friend Qui, who made lots of Indian-style food when she cooked in an ashram in the early 1960s, showed Beth how to cook basmati rice and make a spicy dal to top it. This soup is a simplified version of the dal. It is especially easy if you have two rice cookers so you can make the soup and rice at the same time; otherwise, just reheat either the rice or soup. Everyone asks for this recipe.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 62 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon olive oil1 medium-size yellow onion, chopped1 clove garlic, chopped1 medium-size carrot, halved lengthwise and diced2 large stalks celery, chopped2 teaspoons ground c.u.min2 cups dried yellow split peas, picked over and rinsed6 cups water1 bay leafGrated zest and juice of 1 large or 2 small lemons1 teaspoons salt, or more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 recipe Basmati Rice Basmati Rice cup fresh Italian parsley leaves and cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped together, for garnish 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the b.u.t.ter, olive oil, and onion in the rice cooker bowl. Cook, stirring a few times, until the onion softens, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, carrot, celery, and c.u.min and cook until soft, another 5 to 10 minutes. Add the split peas, water, and bay leaf. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 hour.

2. When the timer sounds, stir in the lemon zest and juice, salt, and pepper. Close the cover and cook for 10 minutes longer. Remove the bay leaf.

3. Serve the soup in bowls with the rice, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and cilantro.

old-fashioned black bean soup Whereas black bean chili is a stick-to-your-ribs thick bean stew, the delightful black bean soup is quite a bit thinner in consistency but every bit as soul satisfying. This is a soup that is made in the southern part of the United States, so it has a bit of bacon in it. Of course, you can leave it out and use additional vegetable oil. Black beans have a black skin, but after cooking the inside is sweet and creamy. This soup is so good you often just cannot stop with one bowlful. This is our favorite recipe, adapted from food doyenne and cooking teacher Charlotte Coombe, one she made for our local bakery cafe when they offered a daily hot soup to serve with their fresh bread.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off or fuzzy logicCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 88 ounces (about 6 slices) bacon, chopped2 tablespoons vegetable oil2 tablespoons olive oil2 medium-size yellow onions, chopped2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced1 cup chopped celery, with some leaves2 teaspoons ground c.u.min1 teaspoon dried marjoram or savory leaves, crumbled6 cups chicken stock1 bay leaf1 pound dried black turtle beans, picked over, rinsed, soaked in water to cover (overnight or quick-soak method), soaking water reserved2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste cup dry sherry (optional)Crumbled goat cheese or sour cream, for garnish 1. Place the bacon, oils, and onions in the rice cooker bowl. Set for the Quick Cook or regular cycle and cook until the bacon is just browned and the onions are soft, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes.

2. Add the celery, c.u.min, marjoram, chicken stock, and bay leaf; cook for 5 to 10 minutes. Add the beans and their soaking liquid. Close the cover, set for the regular cycle, and set a timer for 1 hours.