Whisk the egg whites until very stiff. Add the heavy syrup mixture gradually, little by little, beating vigorously all the time. The mixture will foam and expand into a thick, shiny, white, elastic cream. This is the naatiffe naatiffe.

Dip each ma'amoul ma'amoul in this cream, making sure it is well coated. Arrange them all in a pyramid in a serving dish, and pour the rest of the cream over them. in this cream, making sure it is well coated. Arrange them all in a pyramid in a serving dish, and pour the rest of the cream over them.

Makroud Semolina Pastries Stuffed with Date Paste Makes about 35 * Although not my favorite pastry, Although not my favorite pastry, makroud makroud is very popular in North Africa, especially in Tunisia, which is a land of dates. The pastries are usually deep-fried in oil, then dipped in warm honey. I prefer the lighter baked version. is very popular in North Africa, especially in Tunisia, which is a land of dates. The pastries are usually deep-fried in oil, then dipped in warm honey. I prefer the lighter baked version.

6 cups medium-ground semolina 1 cups (2 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted 6 tablespoons orange-blossom water -l teaspoon salt 2 pounds dried dates (a soft, moist kind) pitted 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 teaspoons cinnamon - teaspoon ground cloves A pot of honey (about 1 pound) For the semolina dough, mix the semolina with the melted b.u.t.ter, 4 tablespoons of the orange-blossom water, and a little salt. Then add just enough water-about 1 cup-to make the paste hold together in a soft, malleable ball. You can do this in a food processor. Leave to rest, wrapped in plastic wrap, for 15 minutes.

For the filling, put the dates in a pan with the oil, cinnamon, cloves, and the remaining orange-blossom water. Add -1 cup water (you need very little if the dates are moist, more if they are a very dry variety) and simmer until the dates are soft and the water has evaporated. Blend to a soft paste in the food processor.

Divide the semolina pastry in half. Roll out one half into a square or rectangle inch thick. You do not need to flour the surface or the rolling pin-the pastry will not stick, as it is very greasy. Carefully lift the sheet of pastry onto a baking sheet (it does not need greasing) with the help of a large spatula or by rolling it round the rolling pin. If it tears, it does not matter-simply stick the pieces together on the baking sheet. (You can roll the pastry out on a plastic sheet, which makes it easier to transfer to a baking sheet.) Spread the date filling evenly all over the pastry.

Roll out the remaining pastry in the same way, and place it on top of the date paste. With a sharp-pointed knife, cut into lozenges: first cut parallel lines 1-1 inches apart, then cut parallel lines diagonally across. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 45-50 minutes.

Heat the honey in a pan. As the pastry comes out of the oven, dip the lozenges briefly, a few at a time, in the honey, turning them over once. Then place on a serving dish.

Ghorayebah b.u.t.ter Cookies Makes about 50 * These are delightful meltingly soft cookies. You must also try the variation with ground hazelnuts. These are delightful meltingly soft cookies. You must also try the variation with ground hazelnuts.

2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 cups superfine sugar 4 cups all-purpose flour Blanched almonds or pistachio nuts to decorate Cream the b.u.t.ter and beat it until it becomes white. Add the sugar, beating constantly for about 5 minutes, until it is a smooth cream. Add flour gradually, working it in by hand. Although no liquid is added, this makes a very soft dough. If the dough is too soft, add a little more flour.

Take walnut-sized lumps, roll them into b.a.l.l.s, and flatten them slightly. Place them on a baking sheet a little apart from each other, as they spread slightly. Stick a blanched almond or pistachio on top of each one.

Bake in a 325F oven for 20-30 minutes. Do not let the ghorayebah ghorayebah overcook. They must remain very white: they taste quite different if they are even slightly brown. Let them cool before you try to move them. overcook. They must remain very white: they taste quite different if they are even slightly brown. Let them cool before you try to move them.

Variations An exquisite variation is to replace cup of the flour with cup ground hazelnuts.

You can flavor the dough with a grating of nutmeg, or 1-2 teaspoons of cinnamon or ground cardamom.

Another traditional shape for ghorayebah ghorayebah is little bracelets. Roll the dough into 4-inch-long sausage shapes about inch thick, and bring the ends together to make bracelets. Decorate with split almonds or pistachios. is little bracelets. Roll the dough into 4-inch-long sausage shapes about inch thick, and bring the ends together to make bracelets. Decorate with split almonds or pistachios.

Basbousa bel Goz el Hind Semolina and Coconut Pastry Serves 8-10 * Some years ago, when a block of flats crumbled in the suburbs of Cairo, a newspaper jokingly asked people to save any leftover * Some years ago, when a block of flats crumbled in the suburbs of Cairo, a newspaper jokingly asked people to save any leftover basbousa basbousa to rebuild it. to rebuild it.

FOR THE THE SYRUP SYRUP.

1 cups sugar cup water cups sugar cup water 1tablespoon lemon juice cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter 2cups semolina 1 cup superfine sugar cup desiccated coconut cup all-purpose flour cup milk 1 teaspoon baking powder A few drops of vanilla extract Prepare the syrup first by boiling the sugar and water with the lemon juice for about 7 minutes, until it is thick enough to coat a spoon. Allow to cool, and chill.

Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan. Add the remaining ingredients and beat well with a wooden spoon until thoroughly mixed. Pour the mixture into a large b.u.t.tered oven dish or baking pan, making a thin layer. Flatten out as much as possible. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for about 20-30 minutes. Look at it after 20 minutes to see if it has cooked enough. It should be crisp and a rich gold.

Cut into squares or lozenge shapes as soon as it comes out of the oven, and pour the cold syrup over the hot basbousa basbousa.

Serve hot or cold.

Basbousa bel Laban Zabadi Semolina Pudding with Yogurt Serves 6 * * Basbousa Basbousa is a popular Egyptian pastry, also called is a popular Egyptian pastry, also called helwa helwa, which means "sweet."

FOR THE SYRUP.

1 cups sugar cup water Juice of lemon 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter cup blanched almonds cup yogurt 1 cup sugar 1 cups semolina 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar or a few drops of vanilla extract 1-1 cups eishta eishta (page 407), clotted (page 407), clotted cream, or mascarpone, to serve with (optional) Make a syrup by boiling the sugar, water, and lemon juice for 5-8 minutes, until it thickens enough to coat a spoon. Let cool, then chill.

Melt 6 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter. Toast the blanched almonds under the broiler or in a dry skillet and chop them finely.

Beat the yogurt with the sugar in a large mixing bowl. Add the melted b.u.t.ter and all remaining ingredients except the cream and the 2 tablespoons unmelted b.u.t.ter. Beat well until thoroughly mixed. Pour into a large, rectangular, b.u.t.tered baking pan and bake in a preheated 375F oven for hour.

Pour the cold syrup over the hot basbousa basbousa as soon as it comes out of the oven. Cut into lozenge shapes and return to the oven for a further 3 minutes. as soon as it comes out of the oven. Cut into lozenge shapes and return to the oven for a further 3 minutes.

Before serving, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter, pour over the pastry, and spread with eishta eishta (the rich cream from water buffalo's milk), clotted cream, or mascarpone. (the rich cream from water buffalo's milk), clotted cream, or mascarpone.

Basbousa bel Loz Semolina Pastry with Almonds Serves 6 3 cups water 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 cup blanched almonds cup b.u.t.ter 1 cup semolina To garnish: whole blanched almonds, eishta eishta (the rich cream from water buffalo's milk, page 407), or clotted or whipped heavy cream (the rich cream from water buffalo's milk, page 407), or clotted or whipped heavy cream Bring water, sugar, and lemon juice to the boil in a pan. Simmer for 8 minutes.

Chop the almonds finely and fry them in the hot b.u.t.ter together with the semolina until they are a beautiful golden color.

Add the hot syrup slowly, stirring constantly, over low heat until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat and cover the pan. Let it cool a little.

Pour into individual greased molds and flatten out on top. Turn out immediately and serve warm. Decorate each portion with an almond or a dollop of cream.

Sambousek bel Loz Almond Rissoles These Syrian pastries are prepared with the dough given under savory sambousek bi gebna sambousek bi gebna on page 135, using a little sugar instead of salt, and a filling of 2 cups ground almonds mixed with -l cup superfine sugar and 2 tablespoons orange-blossom water. on page 135, using a little sugar instead of salt, and a filling of 2 cups ground almonds mixed with -l cup superfine sugar and 2 tablespoons orange-blossom water.

Take walnut-sized lumps of dough, roll each into a little ball and flatten as thinly as possible between the palms of your hands, then pull it further into a round of about 4 inches in diameter. Put a heaping tablespoon of filling in the center of each. Fold in half, making a half-moon shape, then pinch and fold the edges firmly in a sort of festoon.

Deep-fry the pastries in hot oil until golden brown, and drain on paper towels. Or, better still, paint their tops with lightly beaten egg yolk and bake in a preheated 350F oven for 1 1 hour, until golden. hour, until golden.

Iraqis flavor the filling with 1 teaspoon ground cardamom.

Ataif Arab Pancakes Makes about 30 tiny open pancakes or about 12 large stuffed pancakes * Ataif are dearly loved all over the Arab world. They were favorites of the Caliph Mustakfi of Baghdad in the tenth century. At a lavish banquet in his honor, a poem written by a certain Mahmud ibn Husain al-Kushajim extolling the merits of dearly loved all over the Arab world. They were favorites of the Caliph Mustakfi of Baghdad in the tenth century. At a lavish banquet in his honor, a poem written by a certain Mahmud ibn Husain al-Kushajim extolling the merits of ataif was ataif was recited. Basically pancakes dipped in syrup, they are sprinkled with pistachios and eaten with thick cream or, more grandly, they are stuffed with chopped nuts or with cheese. The stuffed ones are my favorites. recited. Basically pancakes dipped in syrup, they are sprinkled with pistachios and eaten with thick cream or, more grandly, they are stuffed with chopped nuts or with cheese. The stuffed ones are my favorites.

They are eaten during festivals, especially during the month of Ramadan, when they are sold in the street. They are the sweets of happy occasions such as weddings. Once upon a time, in Egypt, on the day of betrothal, a string of camels or donkeys brought the bride's furniture and belongings to the house of the bridegroom, while he gave a farewell "stag" banquet complete with dancers and singers. The young bride had a ritual bath and was then conducted to her new home by a colorful procession headed by buffoons and musicians, dancers, jugglers, sword swallowers, and fire eaters. These were followed by lavishly decorated donkey carts. A first cart carried a coffeemaker with pots and cups and a fire, making coffee for well-wishers. A second carried makers of ma'amoul ma'amoul and trays covered with these pastries to distribute. A third carried pancake makers, handing out and trays covered with these pastries to distribute. A third carried pancake makers, handing out ataif to ataif to pa.s.sersby. When the bride arrived at the house, she sat down with her guests to a feast where hundreds of these delicacies were consumed. pa.s.sersby. When the bride arrived at the house, she sat down with her guests to a feast where hundreds of these delicacies were consumed.

Families nowadays usually buy their ataif ataif ready-made from bakeries, and then stuff them and soak them in syrup. But the batter is easy enough to make at home. Several people I know always make it themselves. None have scales, nor do they measure quant.i.ties. They just look at the batter and add more water or more flour if they think it requires it. An aunt who lives in California and who has never ceased to cook in the Oriental manner uses a well-known pancake mix, which is very acceptable. ready-made from bakeries, and then stuff them and soak them in syrup. But the batter is easy enough to make at home. Several people I know always make it themselves. None have scales, nor do they measure quant.i.ties. They just look at the batter and add more water or more flour if they think it requires it. An aunt who lives in California and who has never ceased to cook in the Oriental manner uses a well-known pancake mix, which is very acceptable.

FOR THE BATTER THE BATTER.

1 teaspoons active dry yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 1 cups lukewarm water 1 cups all-purpose flour FOR THE THE SYRUP SYRUP.

2 cups sugar 1 cups water 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1-2 tablespoons orange-blossom or rose water Vegetable oil For the batter, dissolve the yeast with the sugar in cup of the water. Let it stand in a warm place for 10 minutes, or until it froths. Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the yeast mixture and the remaining water gradually, beating vigorously, to make a creamy, lump-free batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour. The soft, almost liquid batter will rise and become bubbly and a little elastic.

To make the syrup, bring the water to the boil with the sugar and lemon juice and simmer for 10 minutes, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Then stir in the orange-blossom or rose water and simmer for a few seconds more. Allow to cool, then chill in the refrigerator.

When the batter is ready, rub a nonstick skillet with oil (use a paper towel) so as to grease it with a very thin film. Heat the skillet until it is very hot, then reduce the heat and keep it at medium.

TO MAKE MAKE TINY TINY OPEN OPEN ATAiF ATAiF.

Pour the batter by the tablespoon into the skillet, making several small rounds that are not touching, in the pan. As little holes appear on top and the pancakes come away from the pan easily and become golden on the bottom, turn and do the other side. Drop them into the syrup when they are done.

To serve, arrange in one layer on a flat serving dish. Spread with about pound thick cream. In the Middle East the cream made from buffalo's milk called eishta eishta is used (see page 407), but you may use clotted cream or mascarpone or whipped heavy cream. is used (see page 407), but you may use clotted cream or mascarpone or whipped heavy cream.

Sprinkle on about 1 cups chopped pistachios or almonds, or spread a teaspoonful of rose-petal jam over the cream (this is popular at weddings). For a party, make a mound with several layers of pancakes, each spread with cream and rose-petal jam or sprinkled with chopped pistachios or almonds.

TO MAKE MAKE STUFFED STUFFED ATAiF ATAiF.

This is one of my favorite Arab sweets. Pour 1 1 ladle of batter into the oiled skillet over medium heat, tilting the pan a little to allow it to spread. It will not spread out too much and will remain in a small, round, fattish shape. Fry one side of the pancake only-this is very important. The other side must remain uncooked and moist, so that its edges can be stuck to-gether. When the pancakes lose their whiteness and little holes appear, and as they become detached from the pan, lift them out and pile them up on a plate ready to be stuffed. ladle of batter into the oiled skillet over medium heat, tilting the pan a little to allow it to spread. It will not spread out too much and will remain in a small, round, fattish shape. Fry one side of the pancake only-this is very important. The other side must remain uncooked and moist, so that its edges can be stuck to-gether. When the pancakes lose their whiteness and little holes appear, and as they become detached from the pan, lift them out and pile them up on a plate ready to be stuffed.

Put a heaping tablespoon of stuffing (see below) in the middle of each pancake, on the uncooked side. Fold the pancakes in half over the filling to make a half-moon shape, and close the pastries by pinching the edges firmly together to seal them and trap the filling.

Deep-fry, a few at a time, in medium-hot oil about 1 inch deep, until pale brown, turning them over once. Lift them out with a perforated spoon and drain on paper towels. Then dip them, while still hot, in the above syrup.

Serve hot or cold. You can make them in advance and reheat them, covered, in the oven. For those who have a sweet tooth, serve them with more syrup poured over.

Filling for Ataif bi Loz- Pancakes Stuffed with Walnuts Pancakes Stuffed with Walnuts Mix 2 cups coa.r.s.ely ground or chopped walnuts, 3 to 4 tablespoons sugar, and 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon. They are divine.

Filling for Ataif bi Gebna- Pancakes Stuffed with Cheese Pancakes Stuffed with Cheese In the Middle East a slightly salty and sharp cheese called akaoui akaoui is used. Alternatives are ri-cotta, mozzarella, and even a slightly salted ha-lumi (soak the cheese in several changes of water to remove the salt). A good combination is pound of a half-and-half mixture of mozzarella and ricotta, blended to a paste in the food processor. Dip the hot pancakes in syrup and serve hot. Mozzarella and halumi become hard and rubbery when they are cold. is used. Alternatives are ri-cotta, mozzarella, and even a slightly salted ha-lumi (soak the cheese in several changes of water to remove the salt). A good combination is pound of a half-and-half mixture of mozzarella and ricotta, blended to a paste in the food processor. Dip the hot pancakes in syrup and serve hot. Mozzarella and halumi become hard and rubbery when they are cold.

Taratir-at-Turkman Pastry Ribbon Fritters Taratir-at-turkman means "bonnets of the Turks." There are very old recipes for these little pastries. The quant.i.ties make a large number, but they keep very well in a tin. means "bonnets of the Turks." There are very old recipes for these little pastries. The quant.i.ties make a large number, but they keep very well in a tin.

5 egg yolks teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons superfine sugar 2 tablespoons brandy 5 tablespoons plain whole-milk yogurt About 3 cups all-purpose flour Oil for deep-frying Confectioners' sugar Place the egg yolks in a large mixing bowl. Add salt and beat until thick and lemon-colored. Add the sugar and brandy, and continue beating. Add the yogurt and mix well. Sift in the flour, stirring with a wooden spoon to begin with, and then working the dough by hand. Add just enough flour to have a dough that sticks together in a ball. Knead vigorously in the bowl or on a floured board for 10-15 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic and begins to blister. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to rest for about hour.

Divide into 2 pieces to roll out more easily. Roll out each piece as thinly as possible on a lightly floured surface, with a floured rolling pin. Cut into ribbons about inch wide, then divide into 3-inch strips. Make a 1-inch-long slit down the center of each strip and pull one end through. Alternatively, tie the strips in knots, which is easier.

Deep-fry a few at a time in oil-medium-hot and 1 inches deep-until the pastries are puffed and just golden, turning them once. Lift out with a perforated spoon. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.

Siphnopitta Honey and Cheese Cake Serves 6-8 * A Greek Eastertime specialty, especially renowned on the island of Siphnos. Mizithra, a soft, fresh, unsalted cheese made from sheep's milk, is used there, but a bland, unsalted curd or cream cheese may be subst.i.tuted. * A Greek Eastertime specialty, especially renowned on the island of Siphnos. Mizithra, a soft, fresh, unsalted cheese made from sheep's milk, is used there, but a bland, unsalted curd or cream cheese may be subst.i.tuted.

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter, chilled 1 cups flour teaspoon salt 1 pound fresh ricotta cheese 4 eggs - cup honey, to taste 2 teaspoons cinnamon To prepare the pastry sh.e.l.l, work the chilled b.u.t.ter into the flour mixed with salt with your hands, or use a food processor, mixing in short pulses. Gradually add 3-4 tablespoons water, just enough to make the dough hold together in a soft ball. Handle it no further, wrap it in plastic wrap, and chill for about 30 minutes.

Line a deep 10-inch pie pan with the dough by patting it out with the palm of your hand (it is easier than trying to roll out this rich dough). Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 10 minutes. Mix the cheese, eggs, honey (start with the lesser quant.i.ty and taste before you add more, as it might be too sweet for you), and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Blend well.

Let the empty baked sh.e.l.l cool before filling. (If it is hot it will disintegrate.) Pour the cheese mixture gently all over the pastry base and return to a preheated 375F oven for about 35 minutes, until it is firm and the top golden.

Dust with the remaining cinnamon and let it cool before serving.

Zal.a.b.i.a or Luqmat el Qadi Little Round Fritters in Syrup Serves 6-8 * A recipe is given in al-Baghdadi's medieval cookery manual for these crisp little golden b.a.l.l.s soaked in scented syrup or honey, bearing the same name, * A recipe is given in al-Baghdadi's medieval cookery manual for these crisp little golden b.a.l.l.s soaked in scented syrup or honey, bearing the same name, luqmat el qadi luqmat el qadi, which means "judge's mouthfuls." In Egypt they are known as zal.a.b.i.a zal.a.b.i.a, in Lebanon they are known as aweimat aweimat. The Greeks have a similar sweet called loukoumades loukoumades. They are street food. Vendors deep-fry them and throw them into a syrup. During festivals they are sometimes colored bright yellow or red for joy and happiness and sold sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. For parties they are served piled in a pyramid on a platter, held together by a sticky syrup.

FOR THE THE SUGAR SYRUP SUGAR SYRUP.

5 cups sugar 2 cups water Juice of lemon 1 tablespoon rose or orange-blossom water FOR THE BATTER THE BATTER.

1 package or 2 teaspoons active dry yeast Pinch of sugar 3 cups lukewarm water 3 cups unbleached white bread flour or all-purpose flour teaspoon salt Vegetable oil for deep-frying Make the syrup first. Put the sugar, water, and lemon juice in a pan and simmer for 10-15 minutes, until it is thick enough to coat a spoon. Add the rose or orange-blossom water and simmer a few moments longer, then chill.

For the batter, dissolve the yeast with the sugar in about cup of the warm water and let stand 10-15 minutes, until it froths. Put the flour in a large bowl and mix in the salt and the yeast mixture, then stir in the remaining water gradually and beat vigorously for about 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Cover with plastic wrap and leave to rise in a warm place for at least 1 hour, then beat the batter once more and let it rise again.

Make the fritters in batches. Pour little b.a.l.l.s of batter by the teaspoon or tablespoon (they can be small or large) into 1 inches sizzling but not-too-hot oil, and fry until puffed up, crisp, and golden, turning them to brown them all over. You may find it easier if you dip the spoon in oil, so that the batter rolls off easily. Lower the heat a little, so that the fritters have time to get done inside before they are too brown. The batter is light and produces irregular, rather than perfectly round, shapes. If the oil is not hot enough to begin with, the batter tends to flatten out.

Lift the fritters out with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels, and dip them in the cold syrup for a few seconds, or let them soak up the syrup for longer. They are at their best hot, but are also good cold.

Variations In North Africa, they pour the batter through a funnel in the shape of a coil-they call it a rose.

Instead of sugar syrup, make a honey syrup by heating up honey with about half the volume of water.

Instead of soaking in syrup, sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and cinnamon.

Polenta Annabi Polenta Fritters 1. Serves 8 * Algerian polenta fritters are soft and creamy inside and crisp and golden outside. They are eaten hot, but you can prepare them in advance and reheat them. They are delicious. * Algerian polenta fritters are soft and creamy inside and crisp and golden outside. They are eaten hot, but you can prepare them in advance and reheat them. They are delicious.

4 cups milk 1 cup sugar Few drops of vanilla extract The grated rind of one lemon 1 cups quick-cooking cornmeal (polenta) 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces 5 eggs, lightly beaten cup raisins Flour Vegetable oil for deep-frying Confectioners' sugar to sprinkle on In a saucepan, bring the milk to the boil with the sugar, vanilla extract, and grated lemon rind. Stir in the cornmeal and keep stirring with a wooden spoon for 5-10 minutes.

Take off the heat, add the b.u.t.ter and eggs, and beat vigorously with the spoon until they are amalgamated with the polenta into a soft creamy ma.s.s. Add the raisins, and mix well. Then pour into a wide, oiled dish and let it cool.

When the polenta has firmed, take lumps the size of small tangerines and pat them into round, not-too-flat cakes. Put some flour on a plate and turn the polenta cakes in this to cover them all over.

Deep-fry in batches in 1 inches hot oil until golden, turning them over once. Serve hot, dusted with a little confectioners' sugar.

Variation For a polenta cake, pour the polenta mixture into an 11- or 12-inch oiled oven dish or tart pan and bake in a 350F oven for 25 minutes, then put under the broiler until golden. Serve hot or cold, dusted with confectioners' sugar. Cut into wedges.

Sfendj Doughnut Rings Makes about 20 * In North Africa, * In North Africa, sfendj sfendj, also called khfaf khfaf, are sold by street vendors. People buy them for breakfast. They can be plain or with raisins. Eat them hot as soon as they are done or reheat in the oven. Serve them with honey or dusted with sugar.

1 package or 2 teaspoons active dry yeast About 1 cups lukewarm water Pinch of sugar 3 cups unbleached white bread flour teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons raisins (optional) Oil for frying Confectioners' sugar to sprinkle on or honey to serve with In a large bowl, dilute the yeast in about cup of the warm water with a pinch of sugar and leave to rest until it froths.

Put the flour in a bowl and mix in the salt. Pour in the yeast mixture and just enough of the remaining water to have a dough that holds together in a ball. Knead vigorously for 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth, shiny, and elastic. Add the raisins, if you like, and work them evenly into the dough. Pour 1 tablespoon oil into the bowl and turn the dough around in it to grease it all over. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for about 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk.

Heat about 1 inches oil in a large pan or deep skillet until it sizzles when you throw in a piece of bread.

Punch down the dough and knead for 1 1 minute. Oil your hands. Take lumps the size of an egg and roll into b.a.l.l.s. Flatten each between minute. Oil your hands. Take lumps the size of an egg and roll into b.a.l.l.s. Flatten each between your hands and make a hole in the middle with your finger. Enlarge the hole by pulling out the dough to make a ring, or twirl it around your finger.

Lower the rings gently into the oil, a few at a time, and lower the heat to medium. The dough will puff up at once. Turn the rings over once, and cook until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towels and serve sprinkled with confectioners' sugar or accompanied by a bowl of honey.

Eish es Seray or Ekmek Kadaif Palace Bread Serves 8-10 * When I was a girl I could die for this. I hardly ever make it now, but I was very happy to find it again in Istanbul. This is a sweet of Turkish origin which was very popular in Egypt. Some bakeries and cafes always had a large tray full of the rich, translucent, golden-ocher bread soaked in honey and syrup. Numerous recipes exist, and of course the texture and taste depend on the bread and the honey used. Use a fragrant honey like Hymettus or acacia. * When I was a girl I could die for this. I hardly ever make it now, but I was very happy to find it again in Istanbul. This is a sweet of Turkish origin which was very popular in Egypt. Some bakeries and cafes always had a large tray full of the rich, translucent, golden-ocher bread soaked in honey and syrup. Numerous recipes exist, and of course the texture and taste depend on the bread and the honey used. Use a fragrant honey like Hymettus or acacia.

3 cups sugar 1 cups water 1 tablespoon lemon juice -1 cups honey 1-2 tablespoons rose water A large round loaf of white or wholewheat bread 1 cups eishta(see page 407), clotted cream, or mascarpone cup chopped pistachios (optional) Make a thick syrup. Bring to the boil the sugar and water with the lemon juice. Simmer 10 minutes, until it thickens. Stir in honey and rose water and simmer for 2 minutes longer. You can darken the syrup to a rich deep brown (the traditional color for this sweet) by melting 2 tablespoons sugar in another pan until it is a dark-brown caramel and stirring it into the hot syrup.

Cut a slice about inch thick horizontally right across the loaf of bread, and cut away the crust around it, so as to obtain one large soft crustless disk of bread. Dry out in a very low oven until slightly colored. Then moisten with water.

Pour the syrup into a wide, shallow round pan which will hold the whole crustless disk of bread. Bring the syrup to the boil. Place the bread in it and simmer very gently, squashing and pressing it down with a wooden spoon to help it absorb the syrup better. Cook for about hour, adding water if it becomes too sticky, until the bread is entirely soaked through and is soft, rich, and heavy.

Turn out onto a round serving platter and allow to cool.

Spread with a thick layer of cream or mascarpone and sprinkle, if you like, with chopped pistachios.

Serve very small portions, as eish es seray eish es seray is extremely rich and n.o.body can eat too much of it. is extremely rich and n.o.body can eat too much of it.

Variations Individual slices of bread can be used in the same way as the single large disk of bread and simmered until soaked through and very soft.

In the Lebanon the syrup is scented with the grated zest of an orange.

Sweetmeats Among Middle Eastern pastries, there are some very small delicacies which are easy to prepare in large quant.i.ties, and which make lovely sweetmeats to serve at large parties or after dinner with coffee. Several are made with ground almonds. There are also apricot drops, dates and walnuts stuffed with ground almonds, caramelized hazelnuts, pistachios, and walnuts.