Put the bowl in a pan of boiling water, or in the top of a double boiler, and stir or lightly beat until the mixture thickens into a custard. Add the rose water, sprinkle the mastic over the whole surface (if it falls in one place, it will stick together in a lump), and stir thoroughly.

Beat the heavy cream until firm and fold it into the cooled custard.

Pour into a mold lined with plastic wrap and cover with more plastic wrap. Freeze overnight. Take out of the freezer 10-15 minutes before serving.

Variation You can cheat and use store-bought dairy ice cream. Leave to soften slightly, and gently mix in the flavorings (some ice creams collapse if you beat vigorously or blend in a food processor), then put back into the freezer.

Booza al Fusduk Pistachio Ice Cream Serves 8-10 * This is not an old, traditional ice cream but one developed by Egyptian expatriates in Europe with traditional ingredients and flavorings. It is very rich. Some Indian and Middle Eastern stores sell blanched and slivered or ground pistachios. If they are not available, you will have to buy sh.e.l.led pistachios and blanch them for a few moments in boiling water to detach their skins, then peel them (a time-consuming labor), and grind them. Use 1 cup sh.e.l.led pistachios to obtain 1 cup ground ones. * This is not an old, traditional ice cream but one developed by Egyptian expatriates in Europe with traditional ingredients and flavorings. It is very rich. Some Indian and Middle Eastern stores sell blanched and slivered or ground pistachios. If they are not available, you will have to buy sh.e.l.led pistachios and blanch them for a few moments in boiling water to detach their skins, then peel them (a time-consuming labor), and grind them. Use 1 cup sh.e.l.led pistachios to obtain 1 cup ground ones.

6 egg yolks 1 cups sugar 2 cups light cream 2-3 tablespoons rose water, to taste 1 cup ground pistachios Beat the egg yolks and sugar to a thick, pale cream. Bring the light cream to the boil in a pan and gradually pour over the yolk mixture, beating all the time. Pour the mixture back into the pan, place it in another pan of boiling water, and stir until the mixture thickens into a custard.

Add the rose water and fold in the ground pistachios. Let it cool, then pour into a bowl lined with plastic wrap. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight.

Turn out 10-15 minutes before serving.

Note: Some people cheat and use store-bought vanilla ice cream. Mix in rose water and pistachios and freeze again. Some people cheat and use store-bought vanilla ice cream. Mix in rose water and pistachios and freeze again.

Booza al Loz Almond Ice Cream Serves 8 * This too is modern. * This too is modern.

cup blanched almonds 1 cups milk 1 cups heavy cream 4 egg yolks cup sugar 2-3 tablespoons orange-blossom water 3 drops of almond extract Grind the almonds. Put them in a pan with the milk and cream and bring to the boil.

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar to a pale, ight cream. Gradually pour the hot milk-and-almond mixture into the yolks and sugar and continue to beat until well blended. Return his to the pan, and stir constantly over very ow heat until the mixture thickens to the con-istency of custard, but do not let it boil, or the yolks will curdle.

Add the orange-blossom water and the al-mond extract (pour the drops into a spoon first, as it is easy to pour too much and then the taste would be nasty). Let it cool. Pour into a bowl ined with plastic wrap, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze overnight.

Turn out 10-15 minutes before serving.

Atr Sugar Syrup A traditional and constant feature of Middle Eastern sweets and pastries is the sugar syrup which is used both in making them and to bathe, soak, or sprinkle on many of them.

It is either thin and liquid, or thick and trea-cly, and scented with rose water or orange-blossom water or both. It can be made in advance and stored for many weeks, even months, in a gla.s.s jar, ready to be used. The following quant.i.ties give the most common hickness.

2 cups sugar 1 cup water tablespoon lemon juice 1-2 tablespoons or more rose water or orange-blossom water, or both Bring sugar, water, and lemon juice to the boil. The lemon juice is to prevent the syrup from crystallizing when it is cold.) Lower the heat, and simmer gently for 8-10 minutes, or until he liquid has thickened enough to coat a poon. Stir in the rose or orange-blossom water and simmer for a minute or so.

Notes: Quant.i.ties of sugar and water can be varied according to the degree of thickness required for the syrup. You can also determine he thickness by the cooking time. The longer t is simmered, the more it is reduced, the thicker it will be. It is only when the syrup has cooled that you can really know how thick it is (it appears thinner when hot). If it is not right, it can be thickened by further cooking, or thinned by adding a little water and simmering again. Quant.i.ties of sugar and water can be varied according to the degree of thickness required for the syrup. You can also determine he thickness by the cooking time. The longer t is simmered, the more it is reduced, the thicker it will be. It is only when the syrup has cooled that you can really know how thick it is (it appears thinner when hot). If it is not right, it can be thickened by further cooking, or thinned by adding a little water and simmering again.

If used heavy-handedly, this syrup will give pastries the rather sickly-sweet stickiness which characterizes badly made pastries in pastry shops.

When a syrup is used for pastries, it is added only when they are already baked, fried, or cooked. It is added very cold very cold to the to the hot hot pastries. (The opposite view, that the syrup must be poured hot, has many adherents, but we in Egypt always held firmly to our own.) Either it is poured over them as they come out of the oven, or the pastries themselves (such as pastries. (The opposite view, that the syrup must be poured hot, has many adherents, but we in Egypt always held firmly to our own.) Either it is poured over them as they come out of the oven, or the pastries themselves (such as luqmat el qadi) luqmat el qadi) are dropped into it for a few minutes, then lifted out, richly saturated. are dropped into it for a few minutes, then lifted out, richly saturated.

Arab saying condemning an ostentatious wedding: "The bride is a frog but the wedding is a cyclone."

Baklawa Makes about 50 pieces * The finest-quality sheets of fillo are best to use for * The finest-quality sheets of fillo are best to use for baklawa baklawa.

FOR THE SYRUP.

2 cups sugar 1 cups water 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons orange-blossom or rose water 1 pound fillo (about 24 sheets) cup (1 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter 3-3 cups (1 pound) pistachio nuts or walnuts, ground medium-fine Prepare the syrup first. Dissolve the sugar in the water with the lemon juice and simmer a few minutes, until it thickens enough to coat a spoon. Add orange-blossom or rose water and simmer for minute. Allow to cool, then chill in the refrigerator.

In a greased baking pan, a little smaller then the sheets of fillo, lay half the sheets, one at a time, brushing each with melted b.u.t.ter and letting the edges come up the sides of the tray or overhang.

Spread the nuts of your choice evenly over the sheets. Then cover with the remaining sheets, brushing each, including the top one, with melted b.u.t.ter. With a sharp knife, cut diagonal parallel lines 1-2 inches apart into diamond shapes right through to the bottom.

Bake the baklawa baklawa in a preheated 350F oven for 30-35 minutes, or until it is puffed up and golden. Remove from the oven, and pour the cold syrup over the hot in a preheated 350F oven for 30-35 minutes, or until it is puffed up and golden. Remove from the oven, and pour the cold syrup over the hot baklawa baklawa along the slashed lines. The amount of syrup called for is the usual one. If you prefer to use less, pour on three-quarters or half the amount, and let people help themselves to more if they wish to. along the slashed lines. The amount of syrup called for is the usual one. If you prefer to use less, pour on three-quarters or half the amount, and let people help themselves to more if they wish to.

When cool and ready to serve, cut the pieces of pastry out again and lift them out one by one onto a serving dish, or turn the whole pastry out (by turning it upside down onto a large sheet and then turning it over again on the serving dish) and cut out again along the original lines.

Variations Use vegetable oil instead of b.u.t.ter if you like.

Kul-wa-shkur ("eat and thank") is filled with ground blanched almonds mixed with half their weight in sugar. In this case, use half the amount of syrup. ("eat and thank") is filled with ground blanched almonds mixed with half their weight in sugar. In this case, use half the amount of syrup.

In Iraq and Iran, they flavor the almond with 1 tablespoon ground cardamom. Sometimes the amount of filling goes up to 2 pounds almonds.

In Greece, they stir a spoonful or two of honey into the syrup.

When using walnuts, you can mix 2 teaspoons cinnamon into the filling.

For a cream-filled Turkish muhallebili baklava muhallebili baklava, bring to the boil 3 cups milk. Mix cup rice flour with cup cold milk to a paste. Add this to the boiling milk, stirring vigorously, and continue to cook over very low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Simmer for about 15 minutes, adding about cup sugar towards the end. Let it cool before using as a filling instead of the nuts.

M'hencha Almond Snake Serves 30-40 * This Moroccan pastry is a very long coil (hence the name * This Moroccan pastry is a very long coil (hence the name m'hencha m'hencha, meaning "snake") of fillo pastry filled with a ground-almond paste. It is stunning to look at and exquisite. I give very large quant.i.ties, because it is the thing to make for a grand occasion, but of course you can make it smaller and reduce the quant.i.ties. The flavor is better if you grind the blanched almonds yourself rather than use commercially ground ones.

FOR THE THE FILLING FILLING.

7 cups (3 pounds) ground almonds 5 cups (2 pounds) superfine sugar 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon Just under 1 cup orange-blossom water A few drops of almond extract (optional) FOR THE THE PASTRY PASTRY.

1 pound fillo pastry cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, melted 2 egg yolks for glazing TO GARNISH.

Confectioners' sugar 1 tablespoon cinnamon Mix all the filling ingredients and work into a paste with your hands.

Open out the sheets of fillo when you are ready to use them, and keep them in a pile so that they do not dry out. Brush the top one lightly with melted b.u.t.ter. Take lumps of the almond paste and roll into fingers about % % inch thick. Place them end-to-end in a line all along one long edge of the top sheet of fillo, making one long rod of paste. Roll the sheet of fillo up over the filling into a long, thin roll, tucking the ends in to stop the filling from oozing out. inch thick. Place them end-to-end in a line all along one long edge of the top sheet of fillo, making one long rod of paste. Roll the sheet of fillo up over the filling into a long, thin roll, tucking the ends in to stop the filling from oozing out.

Lift the roll up carefully with both hands and place it in the middle of a sheet of parchment paper or a greased sheet of foil on the largest possible baking sheet. Very gently, curve the roll like a snail. To do so without tearing the fillo, you have to crease the pastry first like an accordion by pushing the ends of the roll gently towards the center with both hands.

Do the same with the other sheets until all the filling is used up, rolling them up with the filling inside, curving the rolls, and placing them end to end to make one long tight coil.

Brush the top of the pastry with the egg yolks mixed with 2 teaspoons water and bake in a 350F oven for 30-40 minutes, until crisp and lightly browned.

Serve cold, sprinkled with confectioners' sugar and with lines of cinnamon in the shape of the spokes of a wheel. Cut the pastry as you would a cake, which will give you pieces of varying sizes. It is very rich, and some will only want a small piece.

Variation For a pistachio m'hencha m'hencha, use ground pistachios instead of almonds. Although less common, this too is fabulous!

a.s.sabih bi Loz Almond Fingers Makes about 30 These exquisite and delicate Arab pastries are family favorites. They are extremely easy to make, and delightfully light. They feature in medieval ma.n.u.scripts as These exquisite and delicate Arab pastries are family favorites. They are extremely easy to make, and delightfully light. They feature in medieval ma.n.u.scripts as lauzi-naj lauzi-naj, which were fried and sprinkled with syrup, rose water, and chopped pistachios. In North Africa they are deep-fried, but we have always baked them.

2 cups ground almonds cup superfine sugar, or to taste 3 tablespoons orange-blossom water pound fillo-pastry sheets 6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted Confectioners' sugar to sprinkle on Mix the ground almonds with the sugar and orange-blossom water.

Cut the sheets of fillo into 4 rectangular strips about 12 by 4 inches (the size of sheets varies so it is not possible to be precise) and pile them on top of each other so that they do not dry out. Brush the top one lightly with melted b.u.t.ter.

Put 1 heaping teaspoon of the almond mixture at one of the short ends of each rectangle, or take a small lump and press it into a little sausage in your hand. Roll up into a small cigar shape, folding the longer sides slightly over the filling midway. (See drawings.) Place on a b.u.t.tered baking sheet and bake in a preheated 325F oven for 30 minutes, or until lightly golden.

Serve cold, sprinkled with confectioners' sugar.

Variations Other delicious fillings are ground pistachios flavored in the same way, with sugar and orange-blossom water; or chopped walnuts mixed with sugar and either a tablespoon of ground cinnamon or the grated zest of an orange and 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice.

You may deep-fry the pastries instead of baking them, in not very hot oil and for only a very short time, until lightly colored. Drain on paper towels and dust with confectioners' sugar. Serve hot or cold.

Kaab el Ghzal Pastry Crescents Filled with Almond Paste Makes 24-26 These most famous of Moroccan pastries are best known abroad by their French name, These most famous of Moroccan pastries are best known abroad by their French name, cornes degazelle cornes degazelle or gazelle's horns. Stuffed with ground-almond paste and curved into horn-shaped crescents, they are ubiquitous wedding-party fare. I have eaten some with a very thin hard crust, and some with a thicker, crumbly crust. This one, made with eggs rather than b.u.t.ter, is thin and crisp. or gazelle's horns. Stuffed with ground-almond paste and curved into horn-shaped crescents, they are ubiquitous wedding-party fare. I have eaten some with a very thin hard crust, and some with a thicker, crumbly crust. This one, made with eggs rather than b.u.t.ter, is thin and crisp.

FOR THE THE PASTRY PASTRY.

3 cups all-purpose flour 2 eggs, lightly beaten cup vegetable oil 6-8 tablespoons fresh orange juice, or as required FOR THE THE FILLING FILLING.

3 cups ground almonds 1 cup sugar 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 egg yolk The zest of 1 lemon or 1 orange 1-2 drops of vanilla extract or almond extract (optional) For the pastry, mix the flour with the eggs and the oil very thoroughly. Then bind with just enough orange juice to hold it together in a soft malleable dough. Wrap in plastic and leave to rest for hour.

Mix the filling ingredients to a soft paste.

Divide the pastry dough into 4 for easier handling, then roll out into sheets as thinly as possible (about inch) on a floured surface, with a floured rolling pin. Cut into 4-inch squares. Take a walnut-sized lump of almond paste and shape into a sausage about 4 inches long, fatter in the middle and tapering off towards the ends. Place it in the middle of a square, diagonally, on the bias, about inch from the corners. Fold the dough over the filling (a wide-bladed knife helps to lift the dough) and roll up, then very gently curve into a crescent, turning the ends away from the point in the middle. Repeat with all the pastry squares and the rest of the paste.

Arrange on oiled baking sheets and bake in a preheated 375F oven for 30 minutes. The crescents should not turn brown, but only just begin to color. They will be soft. Do not try to move them until they are cool and firm.

Dip in confectioners' sugar so that they are entirely covered.

Variation Some people cut the pastry into rounds, place a line of filling in the middle, and fold the pastry over the filling to make a half-moon shape. They pinch the edges together, trim some of the excess rounded edge, and curve the pastries slightly into a crescent.

Konafa Serves 12 * Called * Called knafe knafe by Syrians and Lebanese and by Syrians and Lebanese and kadaifby kadaifby Greeks and Turks, the dough for this pastry that looks like soft white uncooked shredded wheat or vermicelli can be bought in Middle Eastern stores. There are several traditional fillings. The one with nuts is what you find in Arab pastry shops. The one with cream is my favorite. The one with the cheese is the easiest. The last two are meant to be served hot. They make a marvelous after-dinner dessert and teatime pastry. The quant.i.ties given below for the syrup are the usual large amount. You can pour only half over the pastry and serve the rest separately for those who want more. Greeks and Turks, the dough for this pastry that looks like soft white uncooked shredded wheat or vermicelli can be bought in Middle Eastern stores. There are several traditional fillings. The one with nuts is what you find in Arab pastry shops. The one with cream is my favorite. The one with the cheese is the easiest. The last two are meant to be served hot. They make a marvelous after-dinner dessert and teatime pastry. The quant.i.ties given below for the syrup are the usual large amount. You can pour only half over the pastry and serve the rest separately for those who want more.

FOR THE THE SYRUP SYRUP.

2 cups sugar 1 cups water 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons orange-blossom water FOR THE THE CREAM FILLING CREAM FILLING.

cup rice flour 5 cups milk 4 tablespoons sugar cup heavy cream cup rice flour 5 cups milk 4 tablespoons sugar cup heavy cream FOR THE THE PASTRY PASTRY.

1 poundkonafa pastry (kadaif) 1 cup (2 sticks) b.u.t.ter, melted cup pistachios, coa.r.s.ely chopped, to garnish Make the syrup first. Boil the sugar, water, and lemon juice for 8-10 minutes, then add the orange-blossom water. Let it cool, then chill in the refrigerator.

For the filling, mix the rice flour with enough of the cold milk to make a smooth paste. Bring the rest of the milk to a boil. Add the rice flour paste, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon. Leave on very low heat and continue to stir constantly until the mixture thickens. Continue cooking over very low heat for 15-20 minutes (it will thicken more), stirring occasionally without sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan, so as not to pick up any burnt bits. Add the sugar and stir well. Let it cool before adding the heavy cream and mixing well.

Put the konafa konafa pastry in a large bowl. Pull out and separate the strands as much as possible with your fingers so that they do not stick together too much. Pour the melted and slightly cooled b.u.t.ter over it and work it in very thoroughly with your fingers, pulling out and separating the strands and turning them over so that they do not stick together and are entirely coated with b.u.t.ter. pastry in a large bowl. Pull out and separate the strands as much as possible with your fingers so that they do not stick together too much. Pour the melted and slightly cooled b.u.t.ter over it and work it in very thoroughly with your fingers, pulling out and separating the strands and turning them over so that they do not stick together and are entirely coated with b.u.t.ter.

Spread half the pastry at the bottom of a 12-inch round pie pan. Spread the cream filling over it evenly, and cover with the rest of the pastry. Press down and flatten with the palm of your hand. Bake in a 350F oven for about 45 minutes. Then raise the temperature to 425F for about 15 minutes, until the pastry colors slightly.

Just before serving, run a sharp knife round the pie to loosen the sides, and turn out onto a large serving dish. Pour the cold syrup all over the hot konafa konafa and sprinkle the top lavishly with chopped pistachios. and sprinkle the top lavishly with chopped pistachios.

Alternatively, you can pour only half the syrup before serving, and pa.s.s the rest around in a jug for people to help themselves to more.

Notes: If you want to brown the top of the pie (though that is not usual, some like to do it), run the pan over a burner before turning it out. In the trade, If you want to brown the top of the pie (though that is not usual, some like to do it), run the pan over a burner before turning it out. In the trade, konafa konafa is cooked over a fire, then turned upside down from one tray into an identical tray and cooked on the other side. In this way the pastry is browned on both sides. is cooked over a fire, then turned upside down from one tray into an identical tray and cooked on the other side. In this way the pastry is browned on both sides.

You can also make 2 small pies, and one can go in the freezer before baking, for another time.

Variations For a cheese filling for konafa bigebna konafa bigebna, which is also served hot with the syrup poured over, use homemade gebna beida gebna beida (the "white cheese" on page 113) or a mix of 1 pound ricotta with 1 pound grated or chopped mozzarella. There is no added sugar. The cheese used in the Arab world, called (the "white cheese" on page 113) or a mix of 1 pound ricotta with 1 pound grated or chopped mozzarella. There is no added sugar. The cheese used in the Arab world, called akaoui akaoui, is only slightly sharp and salty, but the akaoui akaoui sold abroad is far too salty and needs to be soaked in water to remove the salt (it is also extremely expensive). This too is served hot with syrup poured over. sold abroad is far too salty and needs to be soaked in water to remove the salt (it is also extremely expensive). This too is served hot with syrup poured over.

For a nut filling, spread 1 pound chopped walnuts, almonds, or pistachios. (If you are using walnuts, mix them with 1 teaspoon cinnamon.) Pour the cold syrup over the pastry as it comes out of the oven. This nut pastry is served cold.

Konafa can also be made into small, individual rolled pastries. This is the form in which they are most commonly sold in pastry shops. The threads of dough are wrapped around a filling of chopped or ground walnuts, chopped pistachios, or ground almonds to which a little sugar and some rose water have been added. One way of making them is to lay a flat bundle of threads of dough moistened with melted b.u.t.ter on a clean surface. Lay a flat rod or a wide skewer along it diagonally. Arrange the filling over the rod or skewer, then roll or flap the threads of dough tightly round the rod. Slip the rod out carefully, leaving the filling inside the roll. Arrange the rolls on baking sheets and bake as described above. Then pour cold syrup over them as they come out of the oven. Cut into individual portions and serve cold. One traditional way of baking the rolls is to arrange them in a spiral in a round baking tin. can also be made into small, individual rolled pastries. This is the form in which they are most commonly sold in pastry shops. The threads of dough are wrapped around a filling of chopped or ground walnuts, chopped pistachios, or ground almonds to which a little sugar and some rose water have been added. One way of making them is to lay a flat bundle of threads of dough moistened with melted b.u.t.ter on a clean surface. Lay a flat rod or a wide skewer along it diagonally. Arrange the filling over the rod or skewer, then roll or flap the threads of dough tightly round the rod. Slip the rod out carefully, leaving the filling inside the roll. Arrange the rolls on baking sheets and bake as described above. Then pour cold syrup over them as they come out of the oven. Cut into individual portions and serve cold. One traditional way of baking the rolls is to arrange them in a spiral in a round baking tin.

Konafa bil a.s.sal is plain fried or baked is plain fried or baked konafa konafa (without a filling) served with clear honey poured over and topped with thick cream or with chopped nuts. Alternatives to the Arab cream called (without a filling) served with clear honey poured over and topped with thick cream or with chopped nuts. Alternatives to the Arab cream called eishta eishta (page 407) are clotted cream and mascarpone. (page 407) are clotted cream and mascarpone.

Ma'amoul Date- or Nut-Filled Pastries Makes about 40 * These glorious pastries have a melt-in-the-mouth sh.e.l.l and a variety of fillings of dates or nuts-walnuts, pistachios, or almonds. See the variations for these. My mother always had a biscuit tin full of them to offer with coffee. In Syria and Lebanon they make them with semolina instead of flour. * These glorious pastries have a melt-in-the-mouth sh.e.l.l and a variety of fillings of dates or nuts-walnuts, pistachios, or almonds. See the variations for these. My mother always had a biscuit tin full of them to offer with coffee. In Syria and Lebanon they make them with semolina instead of flour.

An uncle told us of a baking compet.i.tion organized by a dignitary in Aleppo many years ago. The maker of the best ma'amoul ma'amoul would get a prize, the equivalent of about two pounds, to be paid by the dignitary. Hundreds of would get a prize, the equivalent of about two pounds, to be paid by the dignitary. Hundreds of ma'amoul ma'amoul poured into his house, certainly more than two pounds' worth, and enough to keep him eating happily for months. poured into his house, certainly more than two pounds' worth, and enough to keep him eating happily for months.

FOR THE THE DATE FILLING DATE FILLING.

1 pound pitted dates About cup water 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces 2-3 tablespoons orange-blossom or rose water 4-5 tablespoons milk Confectioners' sugar to sprinkle on Prepare the filling. Cut the dates up into pieces. Put them in a saucepan with the water and cook over low heat, stirring, until they turn to a soft paste. Let it cool.

Put the flour in a bowl and work the b.u.t.ter in with your fingers. Add orange-blossom or rose water and the milk-only just enough, if any, for the dough to hold together-and work until it is soft, malleable, and easy to shape.

Take a walnut-sized lump of dough. Roll it into a ball and hollow it out with your thumb. Pinch the sides up to make a pot shape. Fill the hole three-quarters full with the filling and bring the dough up over the opening to close into a ball. Flatten the filled b.a.l.l.s slightly.

Place the pastries on a large baking tray. Make little decorations in the tops of the pastries with tweezers, or make little dents with the points of a fork. (This will help the confectioners' sugar to cling after they are baked.) Bake in a preheated 325F oven for 20-25 minutes. Do not let the pastries become brown, or they will be hard and their taste will be spoiled. While they are still warm, they appear soft and uncooked, but on cooling they become firm.

When cool, dust the pastries with confectioners' sugar. They will keep for a long time in a tightly closed tin.

Variations The following three nut fillings are considered the grandest, and they really are delicious. Use them instead of the date filling: 2 cups finely chopped walnuts mixed with 4 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and the grated rind of orange 2 cups ground pistachio nuts mixed with 4 tablespoons sugar and 1 tablespoon rose water 2 cups ground almonds mixed with 4 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons rose or orange-blossom water.

An easier version of the date-filled ma'amoul ma'amoul is a date roll. Divide the dough into 4 parts. Roll out and flatten each part into a rectangle 2 inches wide. Spread the date paste over each rectangle thinly and roll up lengthwise into a fat sausage shape. Cut diagonally into 1-inch sections. p.r.i.c.k the tops with a fork so that they will hold the sugar better. Bake as above and, when cool, roll in confectioners' sugar. is a date roll. Divide the dough into 4 parts. Roll out and flatten each part into a rectangle 2 inches wide. Spread the date paste over each rectangle thinly and roll up lengthwise into a fat sausage shape. Cut diagonally into 1-inch sections. p.r.i.c.k the tops with a fork so that they will hold the sugar better. Bake as above and, when cool, roll in confectioners' sugar.

Karabij Makes about 40 * A specialty of Aleppo in Syria, karabij consists of small round specialty of Aleppo in Syria, karabij consists of small round ma'amoul ma'amoul (see preceding recipe) filled with pistachios or walnuts, bathed in a brilliant white cream called (see preceding recipe) filled with pistachios or walnuts, bathed in a brilliant white cream called naatiffe naatiffe. The cream, which has a unique flavor and texture, is made with what we called "bois de Panama" "bois de Panama" and affectionately in Arabic and affectionately in Arabic erh el halawa erh el halawa or "soul of the sweet." It is the wood of a South American tree belonging to a species called saponaria, which produces a thick white foam when it is boiled in water. The root of a plant commonly known as soapwort, which produces the same kind of foam (they are both used as a shampoo to wash carpets and textiles), can also be used. or "soul of the sweet." It is the wood of a South American tree belonging to a species called saponaria, which produces a thick white foam when it is boiled in water. The root of a plant commonly known as soapwort, which produces the same kind of foam (they are both used as a shampoo to wash carpets and textiles), can also be used.

1 recipe ma'amoul ma'amoul (preceding recipe) filled with 1 recipe nut filling (see variations to (preceding recipe) filled with 1 recipe nut filling (see variations to ma'amoul ma'amoul recipe) recipe) FOR THE THE NAATIFFE CREAM NAATIFFE CREAM.

2-3 ounces bois de Panama bois de Panama 1 cups sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon orange-blossom water Whites of 3 large eggs Prepare the ma'amoul ma'amoul dough exactly as described in the basic recipe but leave out rose or orange-blossom water and use water rather than milk to bind it. Fill the dough exactly as described in the basic recipe but leave out rose or orange-blossom water and use water rather than milk to bind it. Fill the ma'amoul ma'amoul with nut filling and shape them into little b.a.l.l.s. Do not flatten them, and do not decorate their tops. Bake as directed and cool. with nut filling and shape them into little b.a.l.l.s. Do not flatten them, and do not decorate their tops. Bake as directed and cool.

Prepare the cream. Pulverize the dried pieces of bois de Panama bois de Panama (the wood we had at home was white, but I have seen some darker ones). Soak it for several hours in 1 cups water. Transfer to a very large saucepan together with the soaking water, and boil until the mixture has thickened and is reduced to about a quarter of the original volume. Take care while doing this, as the mixture foams and rises considerably. Strain through fine muslin. You will be left with about cup. (the wood we had at home was white, but I have seen some darker ones). Soak it for several hours in 1 cups water. Transfer to a very large saucepan together with the soaking water, and boil until the mixture has thickened and is reduced to about a quarter of the original volume. Take care while doing this, as the mixture foams and rises considerably. Strain through fine muslin. You will be left with about cup.

Heat the sugar with cup water until dissolved. Bring to the boil and add lemon juice. Simmer until thickened. Add the orange-blossom water, and remove from the heat. Add the hot solution of bois de Panama bois de Panama (off the heat, as otherwise it will foam up and overflow), stirring vigorously with a fork. Then leave to cool. (off the heat, as otherwise it will foam up and overflow), stirring vigorously with a fork. Then leave to cool.