They found the country on the road to Nancy very agreeable.

29_th, evening_.--The white houses among the trees, and the vines on the hill-sides, form a picturesque landscape. The reapers were busy in the harvest fields; and the ground that is cleared of its burdens gives proof of the diligence of the French farmer; the plougher, if not the sower, literally overtakes the reaper. In the forepart of the route we saw much wood and water, hill and dale, with cattle feeding in the peaceful pastures, which is a lovely sight. As we advanced towards Chalons, it became less interesting, more flat, with fewer trees and meadows.

Everywhere the harvest more forward than in England, but the crops much more light and thin.

They entered Nancy under a feeling of gloom, and it was some time before they could find relief to their minds; but by patiently pursuing the paths of intercourse which opened before them, they were enabled to deposit with some serious individuals their accustomed testimony to the simple spiritual nature of the gospel. In allusion to this trial of their patience John Yeardley remarks:--

I cannot, I dare not, complain, when I think of the difficulties some of our Friends had to encounter who travelled on the Continent years ago, when darkness prevailed to a much greater extent. The want of the language, &c., which some of them experienced, must have been very trying.

It is to me an unspeakable comfort to be able to understand the language of the country where we travel.

Travelling by the Diligence being too rapid for Martha Yeardley's state of health, they hired a carriage and horses to take them to Strasburg, and found this mode of travelling less expensive, as well as much less fatiguing, than the public conveyance.

8 _mo_. 5.--Left Nancy at 6 o'clock in the morning, and had a delightful journey. I feel particularly peaceful in spirit, and a degree of resignation pervades my heart to be given fully up to do the will of my Heavenly Father.

Our mode of travelling afforded us an opportunity of calling at Phalsbourg, where we found a handful of Protestants, about twenty-six families, mostly German settlers. On inquiring for the minister, we found he was engaged with his cla.s.s at the college. His wife appeared surprised at seeing such strangers, thinking from our dress and our speaking French, we were no doubt Roman Catholics. We soon perceived the family were Germans, and I then addressed them in their native tongue, which immediately, opened the way to their hearts. Nothing would satisfy the good woman but that we must call at the college to see her husband. He was embarra.s.sed on being so suddenly called out of the cla.s.s, and appeared a little fearful; but when he understood who we were, and our mission, he became almost overjoyed to see us. There has been a little awakening in this place, and a desire to obtain the Scriptures. One of them said, "I have been accustomed to smoke tobacco, but have now left it off, and I will put the money into the box to save for a Bible." Another said, "I have been accustomed to take snuff, but I will now save the money for a Bible." And another said, "I have drunk more wine than I need; I will take less, and subscribe for a Bible." This little account in such a dark place was quite cheering; for they are surrounded and oppressed by the Roman Catholics, in whose presence they are afraid to speak.

On entering Alsace, the view of the country was enchanting. We dined at Sarrebourg, which appeared at a distance like a town in the midst of a wood.

At Strasburg they were received in an ingenuous manner by some enlightened Roman Catholics, who did all in their power to forward their object; but it was not until they fell in with the Protestant Professor Cuvier, that they found the proper channel for the work of the gospel. In few places did they find brighter tokens of inward spiritual religion.

8 _mo_. 6.--Called on Professor Cuvier and delivered the letter which Mark Wilks had kindly given us. We found the professor an humble-minded Christian, kind and affectionate. He conducted us to Pastor Majors, who was born in Prussia, and speaks German and French well. We soon became united to him in spirit. He is one of the _inward_ school, and a diligent laborer in the Lord's vineyard. He has been here about three months as pastor of a little handful of Christians. He is fully sensible of the necessity of a right preparation of heart before acceptable worship can be performed. He said when the people came to their place of worship they were full of the world, and the word preached did not profit, because it did not sink into their hearts. I believe he fully comprehends the nature of true silence; and he is acquainted with many _interior_ persons whom we wish to see in Switzerland, &c. This dear man was nine months in Corfu, preparing to be a missionary there; but he was taken ill, and suffered much in body and mind. The way in which he mentioned the wonderful dealings of the Lord with him was to me very instructive. He told me he had not been sufficiently careful to seek divine counsel before he undertook the mission; and it had pleased the Almighty to bring him into the deeps, and instruct him in the school of affliction; and he can now most fully acknowledge there is no safety but under the guidance of the Holy Spirit. He and a few others have united for the purpose of printing and circulating small tracts, purely Scripture extracts. They are now engaged in forming a selection for every day in the year, from the Old and New Testament. I accord much with their work; it is just what I have thought of for a long time.

Pastor Majors conducted us to Professor Ehrmann, a worthy Christian, simple-hearted and spiritually-minded. His two daughters are precious young women; the older of them recollected to have seen us at Kornthal, in 1827. She knew us instantly, and appeared overcome with joy and surprise, though we could not recollect her. It is no wonder we should have felt so much attraction to this place, though on entering the town I was, as usual, extremely discouraged, and I feel unworthy to be employed in the least service of my holy Redeemer.

On the 7th they dined at the La Combes, a Catholic family, who took them to see the House of Correction, where John Yeardley interrogated the boys in the prison school, and afterwards addressed them. In the evening they were present at Pastor Majors' Bible-cla.s.s.

It is composed, says J.Y., of ten young men, who meet once a week at his lodging, and he instructs them in the Scriptures. I rejoiced to meet with them. Before the conclusion we had a religious opportunity, in which I was strengthened to express what was on my mind. The pastor offered a prayer in which our hearts truly united. The Saviour's love was very precious to our souls, and I trust we were edified together in the Lord.

8_th_.--The Pastor Majors called for us to pay a few visits. He is so spiritual and _interior_ in his walk with G.o.d that it does me good to be in his company. Pa.s.sing along the street, he said, We will just speak to a man who has been in England; he will be pleased to see you. He was alone in his meal and flour shop, which is apart from the house. He received us heartily; and on our coming away he pressed us to go up and speak to his daughters. After hesitating a few moments we went to the room and to our surprise found a little company of young females met to work for the missionaries, and to read. After sitting a while with them, one of the girls in much simplicity handed the Bible to our friend, and he read a chapter in the First Epistle of Peter, which was followed by a Friends'

meeting with these dear young persons. I felt great openness in addressing them, and thankfulness filled my heart to the Father of mercies for having given us this casual opportunity of preaching the gospel.

In the evening we went to meeting with Pastor M.'s flock. He has taken the first floor of a good house, and appropriates three rooms opening one into another for a meeting-house, placing his pulpit, which is on wheels, in the doorway, so that when the meeting hour is over he can put the pulpit aside and make the rooms his dwelling. The rooms are fitted with long benches; the men and women sit separate and enter by different doors. The worship is conducted with much solemnity; they have for the present discontinued singing. They sat in silence some time at the commencement, when Majors offered a short prayer, and then read and expounded a small portion of Scripture. When he had finished he introduced us as English friends. He had told me previously that if I felt anything to say, I had only to intimate it to him. This liberty was acceptable to me, for I had felt much exercise of mind for the people; and after we had rested some time in silence, I was strengthened to speak with great freedom, and the power of the Most High was over us. Many thirsty souls were present, who, I believe, know the value of true silence. The two rooms for the women were crowded, and the stillness which pervaded was remarkable. A military man addressed me after the meeting, in English, expressing his great satisfaction and joy in being present; he is a regular attendant at this place of worship. The pastor said he was comforted and thankful that the Spirit of the Lord had been with us, and divided his word to the state of the people.

On the 9th, Professor Krafft and Pastor Majors conducted them to the Agricultural School for dest.i.tute children at Neuhoff, four miles from the city. This well-known inst.i.tution was founded by a man who had been taken as a child out of the streets, and whose wife had been brought up in an orphan-house. John Yeardley says:--

The arrangement of the farm-yard, &c., and the cropping of the land are pretty much the same as at Beuggen, near Basle, and what is now practised at Lindfield; and it is just what we want Rawden to be--at least what I should like to see it. Before leaving the premises, we had the children a.s.sembled in the schoolroom, and held a meeting with them, with which we were well satisfied. There is a sweet spirit of inward piety in the master and mistress.

On First-day, the 11th, they attended Pastor Majors' meeting in the morning, and in the afternoon appointed a meeting of their own in the same place, at which some hundreds were present.

It was a precious tendering season; much openness was felt in preaching the word, and I trust many hearts were reached by the power of the Holy Spirit. At 7 o'clock we held our usual meeting in the room at the inn, to which came many of our friends; and I trust we were again favored with the presence of the Divine Master. To conclude the evening, we went to Professor Ehrmann's, where we partook of tea, fruit, wine, &c. It felt to us a true feast of love.

This has been a day of much exercise; but best help has been near in the time of need, and I feel sweet peace. There is a great awakening in this place; thirty of the young women are preciously visited. In accompanying them home, some of them expressed to me that it had been a blessed and happy day, they hoped never to be forgotten. These dear lambs are near to us in gospel love, and I am glad they have such a minister in Pastor M.: he stands quite alone, not being connected with any other Society.

In reading of days spent like that which has just been described, we see in a striking manner what was the nature of that work of the ministry for which John Yeardley was prepared at Barnsley and Bentham by so many deep baptisms and sharp trials of his faith and obedience. The stage on which he was called to act was not the most public; the part which he had to perform was un.o.btrusive; but when the value of strengthening the weak, comforting the afflicted, and, above all, skilfully dividing the word of truth in the anointed ministry of the gospel, comes rightly to be estimated, it cannot be said but that the fruit was in some sort commensurate with the power of the call and the extent of the preparation.

The next day and the succeeding were occupied by John and Martha Yeardley in an excursion to the Ban de la Roche, of which the former gives the following account in his Diary.

12_th_.--In company with Majors, we set off at 6 o'clock to the Ban de la Roche. We had a most delightful drive by the side of the river, flowing along the fertile meadows: the hills on each side variegated with trees of almost every color, and occasional vineyards added to the richness of the scene. After travelling twelve leagues, we arrived at Foudai, where we met with an affectionate and hearty welcome from the whole family of the Legrands. The two families live together in one house, with their lovely children. We took tea with them, and then proceeded up Steinthal to Waldbach, to the house of the late pious Oberlin. Pastor Raucher's wife and daughter were out when we arrived; but we spent a little time with the dear old Louise, who is lively in spirit, us to be near her. The pastor's wife and daughter came home in the evening, and received us with open arms. We spent the night there, and they accompanied us the next morning to the Legrands' to breakfast, about a league in distance. After we had breakfasted, we requested a chapter might be read, and then had a precious meeting with them. We were so knit together in spirit, that we could hardly separate from one another. They accompanied us, on leaving, all the way up the hill, when we again took an affectionate farewell.

The conversation of our dear friend Majors has been to me truly instructive, and I trust our being thus thrown together is in divine wisdom. We have gone very fully into the nature, of our church discipline, and have had much spiritual conversation to the refreshment of our souls.

We arrived at Strasburg about 7 o'clock, and I attended the cla.s.s of his young men, which afforded me once more an opportunity to speak to them of the things that belong to their eternal peace.

Their religious service in Strasburg finished with a visit to the family of Professor Ehrmann, in which Martha Yeardley ministered to the company, and they commended one another in solemn supplication to the safe keeping of Israel's Shepherd.

Both the German and French languages are spoken in Strasburg. In their religious communications to those who spoke German, J. and M.Y. sometimes availed themselves of the interpretation of Pastor Majors, who they found was never at a loss, and who said, "It is no difficulty for me to interpret for you, because you say the very things that are in my heart."

From Strasburg they went on to Colmar and Mulhausen. The latter place, particularly interested them, from the number of persons recently awakened there, and they held several meetings in the town. John Yeardley says:--

In the whole district of Alsace there is a great deal of spiritual religion among the different professors; but in some of the ministers there is great deadness, or else infidelity.

The next halting-place on their route was Basle. This city, and the little canton of which it is the capital, were then in a state of civil war. The great political eruption of 1830, by which half Europe had been convulsed, continued to agitate Switzerland long after it had spent its force elsewhere. On the 3rd of the month, a little more than two weeks before the date at which we are arrived, a large body of the citizens, under arms, went out to reduce the peasants to subjection: the latter gave them battle amongst the hills and entirely defeated them, killing 200 of their number. The ferment was gradually subsiding when J. and M.Y. were in the city.

They found the town pretty quiet, though full of soldiers. A general sentiment seemed to prevail amongst serious persons, that the judgments of the Lord were upon the country.

Poor Switzerland, exclaims J.Y., what an awful judgment is come upon thee!

Is it to be wondered at? within the last six months they have persecuted and banished twenty ministers from the Canton of Basle, simply because they preached the gospel, and the unbelieving inhabitants could not bear it.

They visited the Mission-House, and held a large meeting there with the students and others; Pastor Majors, who was present, from Strasburg, interpreting for them. "It was," says J.Y., "a season long to be remembered."

From Basle, they took the Diligence direct to Locle, where they spent two days with M.A. Calame's large and interesting family. They were introduced to Argyri Climi, whom they describe as a girl of "pensive character and genteel manners." On the 26th they descended the slope of the Jura to Neufchatel.

About 5 o'clock, says John Yeardley, we came in sight of the snow-capped Alps. I saw them for some time through the trees, but the sun shone so bright that I did not for a moment imagine they were any other than clouds; but coming out from the wood I soon discovered my mistake; and a most majestic, sublime sight, indeed it is.

At Neufchatel they took a lodging a little way out of the town, by the lake, and remained there a month, receiving and making calls and holding meetings for worship at the houses of their friends, as Professor Petavel's, ---- Chatelain's, and in their own rooms. At the close of a day spent in this manner J.Y. says:--