Unsettled evening, snow during night on all the ridges about us with frozen sleet in camp. Thermometer at 6 A.M. 31 degrees.

Large round-tailed eagle seen.

Barometer 20.164, thermometer 61 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. new thermometer; barometer 650, old ditto 555.3.

Swardy plants. Parna.s.sia, Swertia, Gentiana, Carices, Composita coronata, Primula, l.a.b.i.ata, Menthoides, Caprifoliacea! Pedicularis, Umbelliferae.

Plants of hill sides Asphodelus, Leguminosae alter, a Nakhood Moschata, Nakhood Labaria violacea, Mulgedioid, Euphorbia, Astragalus prior, alter., Pedicularis, Onosma versicolor, Boraginea, stamens exserted.

_9th_.--Proceeded to Kurzar, eight miles up a ravine to the left or eastward, about one and a half mile, then the steep ascent of the pa.s.s; thence the descent was as steep for 800 feet, then gradually down a swardy ravine until we came to the Kurzar ravine, which we followed till we reached the Choky. The road good; the ascent for 1,000 feet is very steep, the soil good, hills rounded, here and there slate rocks outcropping. No change in vegetation. Pa.s.sed a ma.s.s of snow: abundance of snow on the summit where the mercury in the Bar. stood at 19.200; thermometer 58 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. new thermometer; Bar.

648.5, old 539.1, this being the highest spot we have visited.

The vegetation of the summit presents no change from that of the rocks and hill sides 1,500 feet below. There is a good deal of vegetation, Carduaceae, Statices, Astragali, a few tufted gra.s.ses forming the great bulk, _Nakhood_ rare on the Kurzar side, 500 feet down, Statice becomes most abundant, it is curious that on the sward of this side, neither Fumariaceae, nor Campanula were observed, Silene fimbriata one species.

Caragana all about, even at Kurzar in ravines; Primula abundant, also Swertiae, generally all four plants are found at the Hajeeguk snow ravine, and may be found between this and Erak, with some interesting novelties. The distance to Bamean by both routes is within two miles of the same, the Kulloo-Rood being the shorter, but Hajeeguk the best road.

That of the Kulloo river is followed to Zohawk. The weather unsettled with showers of hail, clouds and sunshine: and heavy gusts of wind occasionally from Kohi-Baba, whose eastern extremity comes in sight after entering the _Kurzar_ ravine. No view from the summit of the pa.s.s.

[Pa.s.s between Erak and Kurzar: m408.jpg]

Pedicularis, Campanula, Rubiaceae, Hippuris in flower, Phleum, Carduacea of Yonutt, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf, Pulmonaria, corolla tubiform. Euphorbia linearifolia, Composita dislocata, Cardamina lutea.

_10th_.--Proceeded to the Helmund, thirteen and a half miles; the only novelty met with is a curious spring about half-way between Siah-Sung halting place, and the Helmund consisting of limpid water emitting a copious ebullition of gas, not water, as the overflow is very small; a copious deposition of fine red earth is formed all round, which looks especially bright in the springs themselves. The water possesses a peculiar acid taste.

Quails abundant, especially about this place, the water of the Helmund is very clear and affords excellent fishing with worms which are greedily taken, and also with the fly, particularly towards evening, by a species of Gonorhynchus.

_11th_.--Returned to the foot of the ascent of the Oonnoo, nine miles: nothing new having been met with, except that Kohi-Baba is seen to great advantage, from the higher ridges of this pa.s.s. On going to Bamean we saw it for the first time from the ridges beyond Yonutt, badly from the first, but beautifully from the second ridge. The weather continues as usual threatening in the evening, clearing up after sunset: there is less snow on Kohi-Baba now than when we went.

_12th_.--Proceeded to Sir-i-Chushme, eight miles, which was one continued descent. Pa.s.sed Killa Moostaffur Khan, built by a Kuzzilbash; it is the prettiest fort in the country. The common Carduacea disappears below 9,500 feet, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf commences here.

Temperature of the spring at Sir-i-Chushme, 55 degrees (1.5 P.M.); that at Kallo, on the other side of Hajeeguk, 45 degrees.

All crops are cut, and the ground ploughed or preparing; in one place the young wheat is springing up; but the country generally looks very brown, and the hills small. Abundance of black teal. Plectranthus reappears at the foot of Oonnoo, Verbasc.u.m rare, if any, on the Tartary side of the Hindoo-koosh. Abundance of Loaches or Balitora in the streamlets arising from the springs.

13th.--Proceeded to Julraiz, eight and a half miles, having pa.s.sed a waterfall, as well as abundance of people going to Jallalabad. Bar.

22.760 at noon; Ther. 75 degrees.

14th.--Proceeded to Koti-Ashruf, where there is excellent fishing with worms, the fish however did not take a fly, though they often appeared at the surface: a large headed Silurus occurs, but I was unable to procure a specimen.

15th.--Proceeded to Arghundee, where we met the Bamean force.

16th.--Proceeded to Topehee Bashee.

17th.--Returned to Cabul. Eryngium is rare between the foot of Oonnoo and Moostaffur Khan's fort.

CHAPTER XVII.

_From Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur_.

_October 7th_.--Proceeded to Bhootkhak, nine and a half miles from Cabul, and seven from our camp: the direction lay easterly. A ca.n.a.l and a river were both crossed by bridges, the latter of stone, but much needing repairs: the country generally marshy: the marshes were crossed by a causeway of stones, rough and broken here and there. The road is one apparent continued slope to this, but the Barometer gives no indication of any difference of level. The march proving uninteresting, and the country an uniform brown and barren tract.

_8th_.--Proceeded to Koord Cabul valley, the distance of which from the place we left being eleven miles: first having rounded a spur extending from the south boundary of Cabul valley, we then entered a narrow ravine, chiefly occupied by a small stream, which we crossed several times. The mountains being chiefly of limestone, then becoming slaty, very precipitous, rugged, and barren; on emerging from this very tedious ravine, we entered on some sward with plenty of Tamarisk, and Salix vimenea. Koord Cabul valley is a frightfully barren, and very stony place; the chief vegetation of the valley, as also of the ravine, being Artemisiae, in which there is abundance of Carduacea subspicata from Baber's tomb.

The road throughout is indifferent, but only so from the stones, the largest of which would require removal, and there are not more than two or three difficult rocks in the way, these however might be avoided by keeping in the bed of the stream. There are two ruined stone walls thrown across the ravine, the remains merely of the very few villages of Koord Cabul. A high truncated mountain stands to the south, on which some patches of snow are visible.

The mountain forming the east wall of the ravine is the subconical one, seen to such advantage from Arghundee, it is of limestone, quite precipitous, with a few large bushes of, I do not know what; none of them being within reach,--Ilex, and _Cupressus_.

_9th_.--To Tazeen, the road for seven miles extends over somewhat undulated ground, generally good; but here and there stony, with a gradual but almost imperceptible ascent, until the top of the pa.s.s is reached; from this, the view of Tazeen valley, and the summit of the Sofaid-Koh is good.

Thence the road extends over ascents and descents, three of which have considerable, and stony inclinations, then it enters the ravine drained by a small stream, and continues down it until we enter Tazeen valley.

Two streams are pa.s.sed in the ascent; the first, near the former halting place, flowing, where it is crossed, between slaty cliffs of no height; the second one, small, frozen, and not sufficient to supply a large party: there is however a spring a short way below the summit, although very small. Temperature 58 degrees. The rocks forming the narrow ravine are very rough and slaty: limestones presenting the usual characters.

This march has been said to present a very bad road, but it is not the case, at least in comparison with many of the Affghan roads, distance twelve and a half miles, the time it takes for camels to perform the journey is six hours. The road, where not stony, is very well beaten.

No change is observed in the features of the country until the opposite side of Tazeen valley is seen, and the summit of the Sofaid-Koh: here, wonderful to relate! are abundance of firs extending down and along the ridge to some distance, but not forming forests.

Otherwise the vegetation consists of Senecionoides, _Astragali_, _Rosa_, Statice 2-3, Artemisiae, and Plectranthus, which last is very common in the ravine leading to Tazeen valley, which is drained by a small stream.

Here also Carduacea, and Onosmoid angustifolia occur!

In this ravine, Xanthoxylon of Kojhuk, a willow, Rosa, and a distinct Ilex, occur, forming chiefly a shrubby vegetation. Ilex is also, so far as can be judged from appearance, the bushy thing seen on the limestone hill at our last halt, also Cupressus, a fine specimen of which I found on limestone at about the height of the top of the pa.s.s, (22.76 Bar.) Ther. 60 degrees, with a very small Spiraea.

The large-winged vultures of Arghundee are common here. Some ruined villages were pa.s.sed, a mosque stood near one of these, two and a half miles from last halt, little cultivation in the Tazeen valley, and in the centre of this, two villages with orchards are visible.

[Pa.s.s between Koord Cabul and Tazeen: m411.jpg]

_9th_.--Tried to get to the firs, but failed.

The lower hills, and indeed the range between the valley and the fir range, are conglomerate, easily disintegrated, then limestone, which often occurs quite vertical. Some of the hills are red, others brown, in one instance the coloured substance is interposed between strata of limestone, which last have alone withstood the effects of climate, this range is as high as the Koord Cabul pa.s.s.

Ilex very common, and much used for charcoal, the trunk being eight to ten inches in diameter; almost all are pollarded. Pomacea common at 500 feet above this, Plectranthus, Senecionoides.

Artemisiae, Astragali, Statices, Rosa, b.a.s.t.a.r.d indigo, Cerasus. The orchards are now a.s.suming their autumnal tint, Salvia pinnata, Ca.n.u.s aliusque, _Ruwash_. Chough, ravens, nuthatch, and chakor here occur.

Heavy snow is observed on the eastern portions of Hindoo-koosh, which are quite barren. The best way to the fir tract I find on enquiry will be to follow the bed of the stream up to it. Fields are being now ploughed and sown. Thermopsides very common here in old cultivation: it affords decent fodder for camels.

_10th_.--To Barikab, distance ten and a half miles; the road extending down the Tazeen ravine, over a tract with a considerable descent for about nine miles; on pa.s.sing a long dark looking rock and its spur, the road then leaves the bed, and ascends over low undulations of easily detachable conglomerate, and sand; then a short but rather steep ascent occurs for 200 feet, pa.s.sing over an easily friable sandstone, either existing as grains slightly adherent, or caked; thence the descent pa.s.ses over the preceding sort of conglomerate, to an abominably barren ravine, drained by a very small stream.

The road only once leaves the bed of this ravine, but soon rejoins it before finally turning off.

The mountains present the same features; where no outcrop of strata occurs, they are rounded, brown, and very barren, with here and there an Ilex; towards the end of the raviny part in one or two places, more wood than usual occurs, forming scattered thickets. Fraxinus, the older branches of which have much smaller leaves, Thymelia of Chiltera, Cerasus ca.n.u.s, and alius, Senecionoides, Compositae, Artemisiae, Polygonum frutescens, which last is not uncommon throughout. Equisetoides becomes common towards the black rock.

Where the road turns off from the ravine, a _Khubar_ or tope occurs, shaded with two or three large Xanthoxyleae now in fruit, called _Khinjuk_.

Snow visible from Barikab to the north, but generally in ravines. The country continues abominably barren, we pa.s.sed the entrance of the Lutabund pa.s.s, near the black rock, but without seeing it: no difficulty occurs on the road, except from the jolting of stones. There is however no forage to be had at the halt, and but little fodder. A sprinkling of holly-looking bushes are seen extending over the lower ranges of Hindoo- koosh.

_11th_.--Jugdulluck, ten and a half miles from our last encampment; on leaving Barikab we commenced ascending, winding over undulating ground for a short distance, until we reached the main ascent, which is short, but moderately steep: thence we descended steeply for perhaps 500 feet, hitherto the road extended over sand hills, with quant.i.ties of stones. On reaching the foot of the steep descent, we then descended gradually over a long stony inclined plane, then entered undulating ground, descending from which the road took us over a small stream, which we followed up, soon entering a gorge, up which we continued till we reached Jugdulluck.