Not much change beyond 12,000 feet, at that height Glaucium in abundance, with a few Hyoscyamus parvus, Borago.

l.a.b.i.atifol, inciso dentatis occurs throughout, Sinapis of Siah-Sung straggles to 12,000 feet.

[Topehee cliffs and ravine: m399.jpg]

The same vegetation continues down to Topehee; on the red hills over its ravine, the plants are different. Portulacea cana, several pretty Salsolae, a Polanisia occurs, with Statice two or three, a straggling Astragalus, Ferula, Peganum re-appears! Cerasus ca.n.u.s, Carduacea Frutex of Mailmandah, fructibus combretiformibus, Muscoides which is a Sedum, Polygon. fruticosum common, the usual plants of cultivation, etc. etc.

_3rd_.--We proceeded from Topehee to Bamean, a distance of twelve miles, for two and a half miles down Topehee ravine. The road is a decent descent, although steepish: from thence turning abruptly at the Bamean valley, we cross the river, which is of considerable size, but fordable, although rapid. The road then extends along the left bank, not in the valley which is occupied by cultivation, but winding over and round the bases of low hills and cliffs, forming a northern boundary; throughout this part the road is villainous, often impeded by huge blocks. After a distance of about ten miles it improves, the valley expanding into a cultivated plain.

Topehee valley narrows towards its mouth or exit, which is walled in by high, red, raviny cliffs; above, in its upper parts it is well cultivated with beans, barley, wheat, and oats, and contains two villages: it opens into the Bamean valley at a village also called Topehee, there the Bamean valley is well cultivated, with oats intermixed with barley or wheat, trefoil, etc., it then narrows, forming the bed of a ravine occupied by Hippophae, Tamarisk, etc., then it widens again.

The structure of the hills is curious, and generally exhibiting the appearance of having been much acted on by water. They are often cliffy, composed either of limestone or a soil of red clay, with which salt occurs in abundance, conspicuous from the white appearance, or springs.

Crystals of carbonate of lime are frequent, limestone, or coa.r.s.e conglomerate with large rounded stones, occurs; together with a curious laminated clayey rock, with white and ochraceous layers intermixed. The tints most various, as well as the sculpture of the mountains: here ravines representing tracery occur: there, columnar curiously carved cliffs, exhibiting all sorts of fantastic forms: here, as it were, a hill thrown down with numberless blocks into the stream, scattered in every direction; and here, but this is rare, very red horizontal strata, colours various, generally rosy, especially the clayey cliffs: here and there the colour of the rock is ochraceous, at one place its structure is slaty. The curious intermixture of these colours owing to the weather, is striking.

From the head of two of the ravines by which considerable torrents flow into Bamean river, beautiful views are obtained of the Kohi-Baba, whose peaks according to native authority, stretch sixty miles to the westward of Bamean, without much diminution in height. The scenery, however, is less beautiful after emerging into the widened part of the valley, where the hills are less varied both in form and tints, than they are in lower parts: fine views however of Kohi-Baba are occasionally had.

Salsolae are the prevailing plants of the rocky sides of the valley, Clematis erecta common, here and there a small Statice.

Caves occur throughout the wide portion of the valley, but chiefly on the northern side; they also extend a little way into the narrow portion, where they seem to be excavated into clayey-looking, red, earthy limestone, or more commonly conglomerate, of coa.r.s.e grey, or reddish colour.

The caves are most common in two cliffs composed of conglomerate mixed with transverse strata of the same rock, 3,400 feet high, presenting a rugged outline; and between the two, which are 800 yards apart, large idols are carved. These cliffs in some places have suffered little from the action of the elements, as testified by the perfect nature of the opening of the caves, and the corners, etc. of the niches enclosing idols; in others they are furrowed by the action of water; in others again slips have taken place to such extent in some, as to cause the fall of all their caves, or of their greater portion, thus exposing the galleries, etc.

The base of the cliffs is irregular, formed of the same conglomerate and clay, but covered more or less by boulders, evidently brought down by the river; by these many caves are choked up, so that originally the cliff might have been perpendicular to the edge of the base, and if so, the caves in the cliffs, and the idols, are of later date than those of the rugged base. But more probably the cliffs, and the caves, are much as they were originally, the boulders having been a subsequent deposit.

The western corner of the cliff beyond the large idol, is much destroyed; on this, the force of the current would have acted: a breakwater occurring along the returning face.

The caves are very numerous, but are confined chiefly towards the base of the cliffs, not scattered over them as I believe Burnes represents. These are of no size, finish, or elegance, and it is only their number, and the extreme obscurity of their history, that makes them interesting; the roofs are usually arched, and the walls are often supplied with niches, and covered with a coating of tar of some thickness, and intense blackness. The galleries are low, arched, and admit one person at a time, or a line of persons with ease; they often form the ascent to the upper caves now inhabited, but originally they were enclosed in the rock, they are defended in such cases by a parapet.

The largest caves are those about the idols, but I see none of any size.

They are often domed, the spring of the dome is ornamented with a projecting frieze, some of these are parallelogramic, in one instance with an ornamented border thus.

[Part of a frieze in caves near Bamean: m402.jpg]

Some of the caves are situated as high as, or even above the tops of the idols; all parts within the rock are lighted by small apertures.

Access to the large idol is destroyed; the smaller one is gained by a spiral staircase of rude construction, and by galleries. The floor of the galleries is rugged, the steps and the cement of the conglomerate having worn out from between the ma.s.ses of rock. The images all occupy niches in the face of the hill: two are gigantic, the rest not very large. They are generally in the usual sitting posture, and rather high up, while the larger ones are erect, and reach the base of the cliffy portion of the rock. They are all male, and all obviously Boodhistical; witness the breadth, proportion, and shape of the head, and the drapery; both are damaged, but the smaller is the more perfect, the face of the large one being removed above the lower lip; the arms are broken off, showing they were occupied by galleries. The drapery is composed of plaster, and was fixed on by bolts which have fallen out, leaving the holes. The arms in the smaller one are supported by the falling drapery.

The height of the large image in the niche is 135 feet.

The pictures are much damaged, the plaster on which they were painted being mostly very deficient, all the faces are damaged by bullets or other missiles: their execution is indifferent, not superior to modern Burmese paintings; the colours however are good, the figures are either grouped or single, and one is in the style of the time of Henry VIII, with a hat and plume, others represent groups flying--one a golden bird, another a man with a hemispherical helmet, all are much damaged. The hair in some is dressed as in the modern Burmese top-knot, often surrounded by a circle.

Otherwise the niches are not ornamented, except in one instance, as above alluded to; the head of the smaller figure was formerly covered by the roof, as evident from holes or troughs for timbers in the gallery. These holes are now inhabited by pigeons, and the lower ones by cows, donkeys, fowls, kids, dogs; some are filthy apertures blocked up by stone and mud walls; the doors irregular, and guarded between two giants.

An old tope occurs near some small figures, it is composed of stones very much disintegrated, with curious blocks of _kucha_ work, and large Babylonish bricks; the smaller figures are much destroyed, some completely; all are in alto-relievo.

The plants about Topehee valley, are Cichorium, Centaurea lutea, Berberis common, Salvia, Cicer cultivated, Lucerne, Centaurea angustifolia, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf, ditto of Karabagh hills, Tritic.u.m, Asteroides, Avena, Centaurea glauca, the common thistle, Ephedra, Mentha, Rumex, Melilotus, Medicago, Artemisia pyramidalis, Lychnis inflata, Saponaria, Bromus, Verbasc.u.m, Cerasus ca.n.u.s, Ferula, Statice, Salsola, Astragalus, Polygonum fruticosum, Composita dislocata, Clematis erecta, Clematis alia, Echinops, Leucades, Pulicaria fragrans, Hyoscyamus parvus, rare; Geranium, Rosa, Fabago of Maidan, fructi echinatis, Arundo, Hippophae.

Halted at Bamean till the 6th, and inspected Ghoolghoola or Bheiran, which presents extensive ruins: those of the city are almost destroyed; but those of the citadel are more perfect, and situated on a mound 300 feet high, which still stands with steep banks or fortifications, apparently of Kafir origin, generally _kucha_, with bases formed of boulders. Three lines of defences remain on the valley side; and the remains of a ditch 50 feet broad at the mound on the east side. _Pucka_, or burnt bricks are common among the debris, also pottery, but this is of the ordinary sort: I observed but few _pucka_ bricks in the fortification on the west side. Great ma.s.ses of rocks have been thrown about near the building of the fort, and some of the lower bastions were built on these ma.s.ses. The mound is chiefly occupied by Salsolaceae, some of which exist in profusion. Nothing seems to be known about the history of the place, except that it was built by _Julal_, to whom the Mahommedans fix _Ud-deen_.

Quails are abundant in the fields about Bamean; it is a curious thing that in many of these fields oats far preponderate over other grain; yet they are not cut, although all the seeds have fallen out of the ear! Can it be cultivated solely for the straw?

Fine groves of poplars occur about certain portions of the valley; from beyond this to the south, a beautiful view is obtained, embodying the cliffs with the large image, and the back hills whose varied surface and tints it is impossible to describe, so as to convey a correct idea of their fine effect. The poplar grove contains some ordinary Mahomedan _tombs_. The trees are the P. heterophylla, but the leaves are much smaller and more silvery underneath than usual; a beautiful poplar of large size and unenc.u.mbered growth, of the same sort occurs in the ravine beyond the small image. Abundance of wild sheep's heads are preserved about all the sanctified buildings, together with a few of those of the ibex, and fewer of the wild goat. The plants of Bamean require no specification, the hills are very barren, chiefly occupied by Salsoleae, of which 6 or 7 species occur.

The water plants continue the same as at Cabul; Hippurus and Triglochin, Mentha, Cochlearia, Naiad? Potamogeton of Siah-Sung, Polypogon.

The other plants are those found in cultivation, and present no change, Anchusoides alba, abundant. Choughs very abundant; wild pigeons, ravens, Laurus; the nuthatch, a noisy but not unmusical bird, Chakor, together with small partridges, but these are rare; several Conirostres.

The greatest curiosity is a genuine trout, {404} this appears rare, the spots are very bright, the largest caught was only six pounds in weight.

I could not take any even with the fly; but I caught with this, Schizothorax, or one of the universal Khora.s.san Cyprins.

The range of the thermometer is great; before sunrise it varies from 28 degrees to 30 degrees! in the sun in midday it is 100 degrees! when there is no wind, and the mornings are delightful.

One of the long-tailed clumsy Brachypodiums occurs in the fields: bears also are found here.

_Joussa_, Mentha, Tanacetoid, Polypogonum, Cichorium, Plantago, common thistle, Potamogeton longifolium, l.a.b.i.ata arvensis of Yonutt, Centaurea lutea, Cyanea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Hippuris, Ranunculus, Potamogeton pectinata, Triglochin, Convolvulus arvensis, acaulis, Glaux, Capparis of Arghandab, Centranthera pinnatifida, Malva rotundifolia, Asteroides, Lactuca purpurea.

Salt is obtained in some places from the red earth, as also alum an earthy substance of a whitish or brown colour, and irregular surface, sent in quant.i.ties to Mindosh, called Zak.

_6th_.--To Zohawk, down the valley two miles beyond the mouth of Topehee ravine, or embouchure of the Kulloo-Rood. The angle is occupied by a Kafir fort called Kojhuk, of very large size, situated on a precipitous dusky-red and very high rock, facing towards both rivers; the defences reach down the eastern face of rock to the Kulloo bed, and are in good preservation, more ornamented than the modern fort, and better proportioned. A pretty gra.s.s sward occurs here, with Tamarisk.

The fort must have been of great size, and is chiefly weak, _i.e_. to a native army, from depending on the river for supplies of water, for it is commanded from the opposite sides of either ravine. The bed of the river under the east face, presents the remains of outworks to protect the supply of water, which is perhaps a sign of its being a recent structure?

The works are good, much better than those of the Affghans, the view of the fort from half a mile down the Bamean river, with the sun gilding the ruined battlements, while the precipice contrasts with it its dusky-red colour, is beautiful.

The Bamean river, especially after receiving the Kulloo-Rood, is of considerable size, but fordable at the head of most of the rapids, its course is rapid, and its waters greyish, while those of the Kulloo are quite colourless; its bed is of some width, presenting a capital road over green sward, with plenty of willows, Lycium, Hippophae, Berberis, and Tamarisk.

About one mile east of our camp, its ravine turns to the south. Wild ducks, quails, chakor, and trout occur whose haunts are in holes, and taking the worm are easily caught.

This fort of Kojhuk is as well worth examining as any place we have seen, the dusky-red rocks are coa.r.s.e conglomerate. A violent wind prevails up the ravine, commencing about 2 P.M. A curious staircase situated at the corner towards Bamean, ascends through rock, the bottom of which is defended by a bastion and round wall; near, or close to this a slip has occurred, destroying part of the wall and blocking up one exit.

Ascended the cliff by the gateway of the Kulloo valley, and found the line of fortifications, with good loop-holes and parapets extend two and a half miles up, a few houses likewise occur. The path leads through the face of the solid rock: abundant defences, with arched buildings occur above: this cliff is almost totally separated from the upper citadel by a ravine: the citadel has four lines of defences surmounting a steep ridge with outworks on the Kulloo river, the bed of which is 60 yards broad.

_7th_.--Proceeded to Erak, six miles. We crossed the Kulloo-Rood, and immediately ascended its right bank, 100 feet high; then descended into the ravine up which we continued, then leaving it we struck over the spur of a high mountain; the ascent being about 1,000 feet, thence we commenced a steep descent, of 5,600 feet into the Erak valley, up which we proceeded for two miles distance and encamped. From the top of the pa.s.s, a fine view is obtained of Kojhuk, and the valley of the Bamean river, presenting a rich and varied surface beyond description, with beautifully sculptured rocks, of purplish-red colour, which are seen up the Kulloo, close to Kojhuk.

The hills and ravines are however very barren, nothing but Salsola occurs. At the top of the pa.s.s a section is partly laid open, shewing a ma.s.s of conglomerate, twenty to thirty feet thick, resting on red clay.

This conglomerate being less acted on by water than the clay, the rocks often a.s.sume curious shapes, and are occasionally even fungiform.

[Sculptured rocks near Kojhuk: m406.jpg]

We observed here a new partridge, at least one to which we were not accustomed; it is almost the size of chakor, black on the back, with a grey neck, and very shy; chakors abundant here in coveys. The valley of the Erak is very narrow, but well cultivated, and with a good many villages.

All the mountains in this direction have rounded shapes or outlines, the precipices variously curved, the surfaces are thus formed by the action of water on the outer strata; when this is once exposed, the changes appear often rapid, as may be imagined in a country of such low winter temperature. Caves occur in the Erak valley, chiefly situated in a dirty white conglomerate.

[Erak ravine: m407.jpg]

_8th_.--Halted and encamped eight miles up the Erak ravine on a swardy spot: the road easy, ascent bad in some places, but generally good, particularly for the latter part of the march: the rocks in some places rising in abrupt rugged cliffs, generally rounded, slaty. We pa.s.sed one ma.s.s of snow about two miles from camp, botany good, especially about the snow; so much so, that it employed me all day.

Caragana appears at about 10,000 feet, a Tamerioid of large stature in abundance, Asphodelus, not as I thought a Mesembryanthemum, but a beautiful and very distinct species; see Catalogue for other plants.

Our camp is within one and a half mile of the head of the Erak ravine, where snow occurs in two large ma.s.ses; patches of snow also occur on the ridge or a little below it; these ridges rise about 1,200 to 1,500 feet above us.