Fried Okra with Creamy b.u.t.termilk Dip Ahhhh, the abundance of okra. In the South, it's available fresh practically all year-round. Fry up these bites, whip up the dip, and make some friends.

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying1 cup b.u.t.termilk1 egg2 tablespoons Louisiana hot sauce, or your favorite1 cup all-purpose flour1 cup yellow cornmeal2 teaspoons cayenne pepper2 teaspoons granulated garlic1 tablespoon salt, plus more for seasoning1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 pounds okra, sliced into -inch-thick rounds (about 4 cups)Creamy b.u.t.termilk Dip (recipe follows) 1. Heat the oil in a deep-fryer to 360F. (See Note below.) Heat the oil in a deep-fryer to 360F. (See Note below.) 2. In a small bowl, whisk the b.u.t.termilk, egg, and hot sauce to combine. In a second bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, cayenne, granulated garlic, the 1 tablespoon salt, and the black pepper. In a small bowl, whisk the b.u.t.termilk, egg, and hot sauce to combine. In a second bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, cayenne, granulated garlic, the 1 tablespoon salt, and the black pepper.

3. Working in batches, dredge the okra first in the b.u.t.termilk mixture, allowing any excess to drip off, then in the flour mixture. Shake to remove any extra breading. Repeat until all of the okra is breaded. Working in batches, dredge the okra first in the b.u.t.termilk mixture, allowing any excess to drip off, then in the flour mixture. Shake to remove any extra breading. Repeat until all of the okra is breaded.

4. Fry the okra, in batches, in the hot oil, turning it as necessary, until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer the fried okra to paper towels to drain, and season lightly with salt. Repeat with the remaining okra. Fry the okra, in batches, in the hot oil, turning it as necessary, until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer the fried okra to paper towels to drain, and season lightly with salt. Repeat with the remaining okra.

5. Serve the okra hot, with the Creamy b.u.t.termilk Dip on the side for dipping. Serve the okra hot, with the Creamy b.u.t.termilk Dip on the side for dipping.

Note: If you don't own a deep-fryer, see step 5 on chapter "The Three Sisters: Corn, Beans, and Squash" for instructions on frying in a Dutch oven. Make sure to keep the temperature of the oil as close to 360F as possible.

About 4 servings

Creamy b.u.t.termilk Dip cup b.u.t.termilk cup mayonnaise, store-bought or homemade (see chapter "Thistles, Stalks, and Pods") cup sour cream teaspoon cayenne pepper1 teaspoon minced garlic1 tablespoon chopped fresh chivesSalt, to taste Combine the b.u.t.termilk, mayonnaise, sour cream, cayenne, garlic, and chives in a small bowl, and stir to mix well. Add salt to taste. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve (up to 1 day in advance).

About 1 cups

Artichokes alla Romana This cla.s.sic Italian artichoke preparation leaves you with only the tender heart and the softest leaves, so you can eat the whole thing with a fork and knife. Don't be afraid to pare the artichoke way down-this is an important step in ensuring that only the tender parts remain.

2 lemons, halved4 large globe artichokes3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil2 cloves garlic, sliced2 tablespoons nonpareil capers, drained1 cup dry white wine1 cup water1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves teaspoon crushed red pepper 1. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Add the juice of 1 lemon, and set it aside. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Add the juice of 1 lemon, and set it aside.

2. One artichoke at a time, remove three or four rows of the outer leaves, until the exposed leaves are light green, and then slice off about two-thirds of the top of the artichoke. The furry choke should be exposed. Using a small spoon, scoop into the heart of the artichoke to remove the p.r.i.c.kly choke and the fine hairs that cover the top of the artichoke heart. While you are paring them, rub the artichokes frequently with a lemon half to prevent browning. One artichoke at a time, remove three or four rows of the outer leaves, until the exposed leaves are light green, and then slice off about two-thirds of the top of the artichoke. The furry choke should be exposed. Using a small spoon, scoop into the heart of the artichoke to remove the p.r.i.c.kly choke and the fine hairs that cover the top of the artichoke heart. While you are paring them, rub the artichokes frequently with a lemon half to prevent browning.

3. Trim off the very end of each artichoke stem, leaving as much of the stem as possible, and then use a paring knife to peel the stem, removing the tough outer layer. Cut the artichokes in half lengthwise, and if necessary, remove any bits of choke that remain. Place the artichokes in the bowl of lemon water to prevent them from oxidizing. Trim off the very end of each artichoke stem, leaving as much of the stem as possible, and then use a paring knife to peel the stem, removing the tough outer layer. Cut the artichokes in half lengthwise, and if necessary, remove any bits of choke that remain. Place the artichokes in the bowl of lemon water to prevent them from oxidizing.

4. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan, and then add the artichokes, sliced garlic, and capers. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the white wine, water, the juice of half a lemon, and the salt. Cover the pan and cook the artichokes for 30 minutes, or until almost all of the liquid has reduced. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan, and then add the artichokes, sliced garlic, and capers. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the white wine, water, the juice of half a lemon, and the salt. Cover the pan and cook the artichokes for 30 minutes, or until almost all of the liquid has reduced.

5. Add the chopped parsley, oregano, and the crushed red pepper, and cook for another 5 minutes. The artichokes should be tender at this point. Check by inserting a sharp paring knife into the heart: it should not meet any resistance. Add the chopped parsley, oregano, and the crushed red pepper, and cook for another 5 minutes. The artichokes should be tender at this point. Check by inserting a sharp paring knife into the heart: it should not meet any resistance.

6. Serve the artichokes with the remaining pan juices. Serve the artichokes with the remaining pan juices.

4 servings

Garden Celery with Homemade Pimento Cheese This retro combination never fails to please. The homemade mayo and freshly roasted red bell peppers really boost this pimento cheese into a league all its own.

8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated, at room temperature (about 2 cups) cup Emeril's Homemade Mayonnaise (recipe follows)1/3 cup minced roasted red bell pepper (about 1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and minced; see chapter "Leafy Greens")2 teaspoons grated red onion teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste teaspoon Louisiana hot sauce1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper6 celery stalks, ends trimmed and any fibrous strings removed, cut into thin batons for dipping, chilled 1. Combine all the ingredients except the celery in a medium bowl, and stir to blend well. Refrigerate until slightly chilled. (The pimento cheese can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; allow it to warm up slightly before serving.) Combine all the ingredients except the celery in a medium bowl, and stir to blend well. Refrigerate until slightly chilled. (The pimento cheese can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; allow it to warm up slightly before serving.) 2. Serve the pimento cheese in small bowls, garnished with the celery batons for dipping. Serve the pimento cheese in small bowls, garnished with the celery batons for dipping.

About 1 cups pimento cheese, 6 appetizer servings

Emeril's Homemade Mayonnaise 1 large egg, at room temperature1 large egg yolk, at room temperature1 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste teaspoon Dijon mustard teaspoon minced garlic teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste teaspoon ground white pepper or cayenne pepper, or more to taste1 cup vegetable oil cup olive oil 1. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the egg, egg yolk, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, salt, and pepper. Process on high speed until smooth, light yellow, and frothy, about 1 minute. While the processor is still running, combine the vegetable and olive oils in a measuring cup with a pour spout, and working very slowly, add the oil to the processor in a thin, steady stream, processing until the oil is completely incorporated and a thick emulsion is formed. (It is very important that the oil is added very slowly, especially at the beginning; otherwise the mayonnaise may break.) In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the egg, egg yolk, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, salt, and pepper. Process on high speed until smooth, light yellow, and frothy, about 1 minute. While the processor is still running, combine the vegetable and olive oils in a measuring cup with a pour spout, and working very slowly, add the oil to the processor in a thin, steady stream, processing until the oil is completely incorporated and a thick emulsion is formed. (It is very important that the oil is added very slowly, especially at the beginning; otherwise the mayonnaise may break.) 2. Transfer the mayonnaise to a nonreactive bowl, and add more salt, pepper, and/or lemon juice if desired. Use immediately, or refrigerate in a nonreactive airtight container for up to 1 day. Transfer the mayonnaise to a nonreactive bowl, and add more salt, pepper, and/or lemon juice if desired. Use immediately, or refrigerate in a nonreactive airtight container for up to 1 day.

1 cups

Gra.s.s-fed Beef Carpaccio with Shaved Celery in a White Wine Vinaigrette, Drizzled with Lemon-Infused Oil The celery adds a nice crunchy texture to this dish and is highlighted by the tangy vinaigrette and lemon-infused oil. We call for gra.s.s-fed beef because it's like Mother Nature intended. Feeding cows native gra.s.ses and allowing them to graze at the gra.s.s's nutritional peak only brings good things for the cow, for us, and for the environment.

10 ounces gra.s.s-fed beef tenderloin cup extra-virgin olive oilZest of 1 lemon, removed with a vegetable peeler3 tablespoons dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc1 tablespoon white wine vinegar1 tablespoon minced shallot teaspoon minced garlic teaspoon honey teaspoon Dijon mustard teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh chives1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning teaspoon cracked black pepper, plus more for seasoning cup very thinly sliced celery (half-moons) cup fresh celery leavesShaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish 1. Wrap the tenderloin well in plastic wrap, and then place it inside a resealable sandwich bag, squeezing out any excess air and sealing the bag. Freeze the meat for at least 2 hours, or until mostly frozen. Wrap the tenderloin well in plastic wrap, and then place it inside a resealable sandwich bag, squeezing out any excess air and sealing the bag. Freeze the meat for at least 2 hours, or until mostly frozen.

2. While the beef is freezing, make the lemon-infused olive oil: Place the extra-virgin olive oil and the lemon zest in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about 5 minutes. Cover the pan, remove it from the heat, and allow it to stand, undisturbed, for about 30 minutes. Then strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve and reserve it. (Discard the zest.) While the beef is freezing, make the lemon-infused olive oil: Place the extra-virgin olive oil and the lemon zest in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about 5 minutes. Cover the pan, remove it from the heat, and allow it to stand, undisturbed, for about 30 minutes. Then strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve and reserve it. (Discard the zest.) 3. To make the vinaigrette, place the white wine, vinegar, shallot, garlic, honey, mustard, teaspoon of the salt, and 1/8 teaspoon of the white pepper in a blender and blend well. With the blender running, add the remaining cup olive oil in a slow, steady stream, processing until the vinaigrette is emulsified. Transfer the vinaigrette to a small mixing bowl, and stir in the parsley and chives. Set it aside until ready to use. To make the vinaigrette, place the white wine, vinegar, shallot, garlic, honey, mustard, teaspoon of the salt, and 1/8 teaspoon of the white pepper in a blender and blend well. With the blender running, add the remaining cup olive oil in a slow, steady stream, processing until the vinaigrette is emulsified. Transfer the vinaigrette to a small mixing bowl, and stir in the parsley and chives. Set it aside until ready to use.

4. Remove the tenderloin from the freezer and season it on all sides with the kosher salt and cracked black pepper. Heat the 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium-size saute pan over high heat. When it is hot, add the tenderloin and sear until nicely browned and caramelized on all sides, about 1 minute per side. Remove from the pan and refrigerate until cool, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the tenderloin from the freezer and season it on all sides with the kosher salt and cracked black pepper. Heat the 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium-size saute pan over high heat. When it is hot, add the tenderloin and sear until nicely browned and caramelized on all sides, about 1 minute per side. Remove from the pan and refrigerate until cool, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Remove the cooled tenderloin from the refrigerator and cut it against the grain into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Place several slices on a sheet of plastic wrap (making sure there is sufficient s.p.a.ce between the slices) and lay another sheet of plastic wrap on top. Using a mallet, pound the slices until they are paper-thin, being careful not to tear any of the slices. Repeat until all of the slices are flattened. Arrange the slices, slightly overlapping, in a circle on each of four serving dishes, and season them lightly with kosher salt and cracked black pepper. Remove the cooled tenderloin from the refrigerator and cut it against the grain into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Place several slices on a sheet of plastic wrap (making sure there is sufficient s.p.a.ce between the slices) and lay another sheet of plastic wrap on top. Using a mallet, pound the slices until they are paper-thin, being careful not to tear any of the slices. Repeat until all of the slices are flattened. Arrange the slices, slightly overlapping, in a circle on each of four serving dishes, and season them lightly with kosher salt and cracked black pepper.

6. Place the sliced celery and celery leaves in a small mixing bowl. Add the remaining teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon white pepper. Drizzle with about 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette, and toss to coat well. Mound the celery in the center of the carpaccio, dividing it evenly among the four plates. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and the lemon-infused oil. Garnish with the Parmesan shavings, and serve. Place the sliced celery and celery leaves in a small mixing bowl. Add the remaining teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon white pepper. Drizzle with about 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette, and toss to coat well. Mound the celery in the center of the carpaccio, dividing it evenly among the four plates. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and the lemon-infused oil. Garnish with the Parmesan shavings, and serve.

4 servings

New OrleansStyle Stuffed Artichokes The Italian-American community in New Orleans just loves stuffing beautiful globe artichokes with an intensely seasoned breadcrumb mixture and then braising them until they are fork-tender. Now, be forewarned: these do take a bit of time to prepare, and if stuffed properly, they end up big! But they are worth the time, and just one easily satisfies a manly appet.i.te. Do like my friends in the test kitchen do and drizzle them with some of the lemony braising liquid before serving.

5 cups fine dry unseasoned breadcrumbs, preferably homemade (see Note)1 cups finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese1/3 cup minced fresh parsley leaves1/3 cup minced fresh basil leaves cup finely chopped green onions (green tops only)2 tablespoons minced fresh oregano leaves1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves1 teaspoon crushed red pepper (or less, to taste)1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon cayenne pepper cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil cup hot water1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1 teaspoon grated lemon zest cup olive oil3 tablespoons minced garlic2 tablespoons minced anchovies (about 8 canned anchovy fillets)1 teaspoon salt2 lemons, halved4 large (10-ounce) globe artichokes 1. In a large bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, Pecorino, parsley, basil, green onions, oregano, thyme, crushed red pepper, black pepper, and cayenne, and stir well to blend. In a separate bowl, combine cup of the extra-virgin olive oil with the hot water, lemon juice, and lemon zest, and whisk to blend. Drizzle the olive oil mixture over the breadcrumbs, and stir until the crumbs are evenly coated. Set aside. In a large bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, Pecorino, parsley, basil, green onions, oregano, thyme, crushed red pepper, black pepper, and cayenne, and stir well to blend. In a separate bowl, combine cup of the extra-virgin olive oil with the hot water, lemon juice, and lemon zest, and whisk to blend. Drizzle the olive oil mixture over the breadcrumbs, and stir until the crumbs are evenly coated. Set aside.

2. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add the garlic and anchovies and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the hot oil-garlic mixture over the breadcrumb mixture, and stir to blend. Set the stuffing aside. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add the garlic and anchovies and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour the hot oil-garlic mixture over the breadcrumb mixture, and stir to blend. Set the stuffing aside.

3. Fill a large nonreactive Dutch oven with 1 inch of water. Add the 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, the salt, and a lemon half, cut into pieces. Heat over medium-low heat while you prepare the artichokes. (If the water comes to a boil before the artichokes are stuffed, cover the pot and keep warm.) Fill a large nonreactive Dutch oven with 1 inch of water. Add the 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, the salt, and a lemon half, cut into pieces. Heat over medium-low heat while you prepare the artichokes. (If the water comes to a boil before the artichokes are stuffed, cover the pot and keep warm.) 4. Slice off the upper third of each artichoke, and rub the cut portions with a lemon half. Trim the stems to about inch, so that the artichokes will sit upright. Using scissors, trim the thorns from the ends of the remaining leaves; remove any damaged leaves with a paring knife. Using a spoon or a melon baller, scoop out the choke and the hairy portion of each artichoke, leaving a cavity in the center for stuffing. Rub or squeeze the lemon half over all the cut portions of each artichoke. Slice off the upper third of each artichoke, and rub the cut portions with a lemon half. Trim the stems to about inch, so that the artichokes will sit upright. Using scissors, trim the thorns from the ends of the remaining leaves; remove any damaged leaves with a paring knife. Using a spoon or a melon baller, scoop out the choke and the hairy portion of each artichoke, leaving a cavity in the center for stuffing. Rub or squeeze the lemon half over all the cut portions of each artichoke.

5. One at a time, stuff the artichokes: Beginning with the outer leaves and progressing towards the middle, stuff the leaves with the breadcrumb mixture, pressing lightly to compact the stuffing. When you reach a place where the leaves are too tight to pry apart, fill the center cavity with stuffing. Repeat with the remaining artichokes. Cut one of the remaining lemon halves into thin slices, and top each artichoke with a lemon slice. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the artichokes, and drizzle 1 tablespoon of the extra-virgin olive oil over each artichoke. One at a time, stuff the artichokes: Beginning with the outer leaves and progressing towards the middle, stuff the leaves with the breadcrumb mixture, pressing lightly to compact the stuffing. When you reach a place where the leaves are too tight to pry apart, fill the center cavity with stuffing. Repeat with the remaining artichokes. Cut one of the remaining lemon halves into thin slices, and top each artichoke with a lemon slice. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the artichokes, and drizzle 1 tablespoon of the extra-virgin olive oil over each artichoke.

6. Place the artichokes in the Dutch oven-ideally they should fit tightly in the pot so as to hold each other upright during cooking. Cover the pot and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and cook, covered, testing the artichokes occasionally, until the leaves are very tender and pull away easily, 1 to 1 hours. Place the artichokes in the Dutch oven-ideally they should fit tightly in the pot so as to hold each other upright during cooking. Cover the pot and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and cook, covered, testing the artichokes occasionally, until the leaves are very tender and pull away easily, 1 to 1 hours.

7. Remove the artichokes from the pot and allow them to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve hot or warm, drizzled with some of the cooking juices if desired. Remove the artichokes from the pot and allow them to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve hot or warm, drizzled with some of the cooking juices if desired.

Note: Homemade breadcrumbs can be made fresh or dry. Fresh breadcrumbs are made by placing pieces of fresh, soft bread into a food processor until the desired size of crumb is reached. Dry breadcrumbs are often made from day-old French bread that has been cubed and either left to dry or toasted in a low oven until dry. The cubes are then cooled and processed in a food processor until the desired size of crumb is reached. Any sort of seasoning or flavoring can be added to either fresh or dry breadcrumbs-many folks drizzle with olive oil and add chopped fresh herbs or finely grated cheese. Homemade fresh and dry breadcrumbs should not be used interchangeably, but both can add a nice texture to a dish.

4 servings

Rhubarb Strawberry Crisp Rhubarb and strawberries are a cla.s.sic duo that appears in farmer's markets and grocery stores at the same time each year, letting us know that spring has officially arrived. Look for rhubarb stalks that are deep red and firm to the touch, and deep red strawberries that are firm, fragrant, and not bruised.

1 pound rhubarb, trimmed and diced1 pound strawberries, halved or quartered if large cup granulated sugar2 tablespoons cornstarch2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice2/3 cup all-purpose flour2/3 cup rolled oats cup packed light brown sugar6 tablespoons ( stick) cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces1 teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon saltVanilla ice cream, for serving (optional) 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Lightly b.u.t.ter a deep-dish pie plate or other shallow 1- to 2-quart nonreactive baking dish, and set it aside. Preheat the oven to 375F. Lightly b.u.t.ter a deep-dish pie plate or other shallow 1- to 2-quart nonreactive baking dish, and set it aside.

2. Combine the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, cornstarch, and lemon juice in a medium mixing bowl and toss to combine. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish, and set it aside while you prepare the topping. Combine the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, cornstarch, and lemon juice in a medium mixing bowl and toss to combine. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish, and set it aside while you prepare the topping.

3. Combine all the remaining ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and process on low speed until the mixture is crumbly and coa.r.s.e. Combine all the remaining ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and process on low speed until the mixture is crumbly and coa.r.s.e.

4. Sprinkle the topping over the fruit, and then place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet (to catch any juices that may bubble over). Transfer it to the oven and bake until the topping is golden brown and crisp, and the juices are bubbly and glossy, 40 to 45 minutes. Set aside to cool briefly, then serve hot or warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream if desired. Sprinkle the topping over the fruit, and then place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet (to catch any juices that may bubble over). Transfer it to the oven and bake until the topping is golden brown and crisp, and the juices are bubbly and glossy, 40 to 45 minutes. Set aside to cool briefly, then serve hot or warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream if desired.

6 to 8 servings

Roots, Shoots, Tubers, and Bulbs

Braised Leeks with a Mustard Vinaigrette This is a wonderful way to enjoy fresh leeks when they are in season. The leeks become sweeter as they are cooked, but they still retain a nice oniony flavor. The tangy, herbaceous Dijon vinaigrette would taste good on many things, but it really complements the leeks here. Bon appet.i.t!

6 large leeks (about 7 inches long and 2 inches wide)4 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth cup dry white wine cup extra-virgin olive oilJuice of 1 lemon2 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon black peppercorns1 bay leaf4 or 5 sprigs fresh thyme cup red wine vinegar1 tablespoon minced shallot2 teaspoons Dijon mustard teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup vegetable oil cup olive oil1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives 1. Trim off enough of the root ends of the leeks to dispose of the roots yet still keep the leek halves held together. Trim the tops so that only the white and some of the light green portion remains. (Discard the dark green tops or reserve them for another use.) Clean the leeks thoroughly by holding them under cold running water. (If your leeks are very dirty and it's hard to clean them without cutting the root ends off completely, do as we did in the photo: Simply trim the root ends. This will allow you to separate the leaves and run them under cool running water to rinse them thoroughly of any sand or grit. Then tie the halves back together with kitchen twine. This will keep the halves together when you braise them.) Trim off enough of the root ends of the leeks to dispose of the roots yet still keep the leek halves held together. Trim the tops so that only the white and some of the light green portion remains. (Discard the dark green tops or reserve them for another use.) Clean the leeks thoroughly by holding them under cold running water. (If your leeks are very dirty and it's hard to clean them without cutting the root ends off completely, do as we did in the photo: Simply trim the root ends. This will allow you to separate the leaves and run them under cool running water to rinse them thoroughly of any sand or grit. Then tie the halves back together with kitchen twine. This will keep the halves together when you braise them.) 2. Place the leeks in a large, deep saute pan, and add the chicken stock, white wine, extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, 2 teaspoons of the salt, the peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme sprigs. Bring to a gentle boil, weighting the leeks down with a small heatproof plate or other heatproof object in order to keep them submerged. There should be enough liquid to cover the leeks; if not, add a bit of water. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the leeks are very tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, 12 to 15 minutes. Place the leeks in a large, deep saute pan, and add the chicken stock, white wine, extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, 2 teaspoons of the salt, the peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme sprigs. Bring to a gentle boil, weighting the leeks down with a small heatproof plate or other heatproof object in order to keep them submerged. There should be enough liquid to cover the leeks; if not, add a bit of water. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the leeks are very tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, 12 to 15 minutes.

3. While the leeks are poaching, make the vinaigrette: In a small mixing bowl, combine the vinegar, shallot, mustard, black pepper, and the remaining teaspoon salt, and whisk to combine. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Then combine the vegetable oil and olive oil in a measuring cup, and while whisking constantly, slowly drizzle the oil into the vinegar-shallot mixture until the oil is completely incorporated and the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Whisk in the parsley and chives. Taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. While the leeks are poaching, make the vinaigrette: In a small mixing bowl, combine the vinegar, shallot, mustard, black pepper, and the remaining teaspoon salt, and whisk to combine. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Then combine the vegetable oil and olive oil in a measuring cup, and while whisking constantly, slowly drizzle the oil into the vinegar-shallot mixture until the oil is completely incorporated and the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Whisk in the parsley and chives. Taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

4. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, carefully remove the leeks from the poaching liquid and set them on a paper towellined plate. Allow them to drain and cool slightly before serving, or serve them slightly chilled. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, carefully remove the leeks from the poaching liquid and set them on a paper towellined plate. Allow them to drain and cool slightly before serving, or serve them slightly chilled.

5. Transfer the leeks (1 to 2 pieces per serving) to small salad plates, drizzle with some of the vinaigrette, and serve. Transfer the leeks (1 to 2 pieces per serving) to small salad plates, drizzle with some of the vinaigrette, and serve.

Note: Any remaining vinaigrette will keep, refrigerated in a covered, nonreactive container, for up to 3 days.

4 to 6 servings

Asparagus and Baby Red Russian Kale Slaw People do not usually think about eating asparagus or kale raw, but if you use these ingredients when they are at their freshest and still young and tender, they make a delicious crunchy slaw.

cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus 2 ounces shaved with a vegetable peeler2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice1 teaspoon grated lemon zest teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup extra-virgin olive oil1 bunch pencil-thin asparagus, sliced on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces8 ounces (about 1 bunch) baby Red Russian kale, stemmed, leaves rinsed, patted dry, and cut crosswise into thin strips 1. Combine the grated Parmesan, lemon juice, lemon zest, teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the pepper in a small mixing bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, and set aside. Combine the grated Parmesan, lemon juice, lemon zest, teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the pepper in a small mixing bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, and set aside.

2. Combine the asparagus and kale in a medium bowl. Season with the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper, and mix well. Add the shaved Parmesan, toss with the dressing, and let stand for at least 10 minutes. Combine the asparagus and kale in a medium bowl. Season with the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper, and mix well. Add the shaved Parmesan, toss with the dressing, and let stand for at least 10 minutes.

3. Toss the salad again, and serve. This is best enjoyed at room temperature. Toss the salad again, and serve. This is best enjoyed at room temperature.

4 servings

Sauteed Ramps with Apple-Smoked Bacon Ramps are shoots that emerge from the forest floor in early spring. In appearance they resemble green onions, but their flavor is really more of a cross between onion and garlic. Should you be so lucky as to run across freshly foraged ramps in your travels, try them! They are delicious and a real tease for the senses while cooking. We enjoy them crisp-tender after just a quick saute, but if you prefer them to be more tender, see the note below.

6 ounces thick-sliced applewood-smoked bacon, julienned2 pounds ramps, rinsed, roots trimmed and sliced inch thick on the diagonal, leaves roughly choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat a large nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until it is just crisp, 5 to 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper towellined plate to drain. Heat a large nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until it is just crisp, 5 to 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper towellined plate to drain.

2. Add the ramp bottoms to the bacon fat and cook until nicely browned and caramelized, stirring as necessary, 6 to 8 minutes. During the last 30 seconds of cooking, add the ramp leaves and stir to combine well. (If necessary, cook the ramps in batches and toss the whole batch together before serving.) Season with salt and pepper to taste (depending on the bacon you use, you may not need any additional salt). Add the ramp bottoms to the bacon fat and cook until nicely browned and caramelized, stirring as necessary, 6 to 8 minutes. During the last 30 seconds of cooking, add the ramp leaves and stir to combine well. (If necessary, cook the ramps in batches and toss the whole batch together before serving.) Season with salt and pepper to taste (depending on the bacon you use, you may not need any additional salt).

3. Transfer to a serving dish, top with the crispy bacon, and serve. Transfer to a serving dish, top with the crispy bacon, and serve.

4 servings

Asparagus Flan The season for asparagus lasts roughly from March to June, depending on where you live. When choosing asparagus, look for spears that are dark green, with firm, round stalks that are not dried out. The tips should be dark green or purple and tightly closed. I like to use medium-size asparagus for this flan, but use whatever size you can find that is very fresh and tender.

1 pound asparagus, tough ends trimmed1 medium onion, finely chopped2 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves3 large eggs1 cups heavy cream1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 recipe Chive Oil, for serving (chapter "The Herb Garden", optional)Edible flowers, for garnish (optional) 1. Fill a medium bowl with ice and cold water, and set it aside. Fill a medium bowl with ice and cold water, and set it aside.

2. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and cook just until the water returns to a boil. Drain, and immediately submerge the asparagus in the ice water. When it has cooled, drain the spears again, and then chop them crosswise into -inch pieces. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and cook just until the water returns to a boil. Drain, and immediately submerge the asparagus in the ice water. When it has cooled, drain the spears again, and then chop them crosswise into -inch pieces.

3. Preheat the oven to 325F. Lightly coat the inside of six -cup ramekins with nonstick vegetable cooking spray. Preheat the oven to 325F. Lightly coat the inside of six -cup ramekins with nonstick vegetable cooking spray.

4. Combine the asparagus, onion, and olive oil in a large, heavy skillet, and cook over medium heat until the onion is translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the lemon zest and the tarragon, and transfer the mixture to a food processor. Process until very smooth. If there are still some tough fibers after pureeing, pa.s.s the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Combine the asparagus, onion, and olive oil in a large, heavy skillet, and cook over medium heat until the onion is translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the lemon zest and the tarragon, and transfer the mixture to a food processor. Process until very smooth. If there are still some tough fibers after pureeing, pa.s.s the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve.

5. Transfer the pureed asparagus mixture to a mixing bowl, and whisk in the eggs, heavy cream, Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Divide the mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins, and place the ramekins in a large baking dish or small roasting pan. Add enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins, and bake, uncovered, until the flans are set, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the ramekins to a wire rack to cool slightly. Transfer the pureed asparagus mixture to a mixing bowl, and whisk in the eggs, heavy cream, Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Divide the mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins, and place the ramekins in a large baking dish or small roasting pan. Add enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins, and bake, uncovered, until the flans are set, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the ramekins to a wire rack to cool slightly.

6. When the flans have cooled slightly, run the tip of a paring knife around the edge of each flan, and turn the flans out onto serving plates. Garnish each flan with a little of the Chive Oil and the edible flowers, if desired. The flans are equally delicious served hot, warm, or at room temperature. When the flans have cooled slightly, run the tip of a paring knife around the edge of each flan, and turn the flans out onto serving plates. Garnish each flan with a little of the Chive Oil and the edible flowers, if desired. The flans are equally delicious served hot, warm, or at room temperature.

6 servings

Roasted Garlic Soup This soup has a lot of depth and complexity; full-bodied flavors come together from the onions, leeks, and roasted garlic. The bread cubes serve to further thicken the soup, but don't be afraid to skip this ingredient should you prefer a thinner soup.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter4 ounces pancetta, chopped2 medium leeks (white portions only), well rinsed in several changes of water and finely chopped (about 1 cups)1 cup chopped onions teaspoon salt, plus more if needed teaspoon freshly ground white pepper, plus more if needed1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves cup Roasted Garlic (recipe follows) cup dry white wine2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock, or canned low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth cup cubed rustic Italian bread (or more if desired) cup heavy cream2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juiceChopped fresh chives, for garnish 1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat is rendered, about 4 minutes. Add the leeks, onions, salt, pepper, and thyme, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are very soft but not colored, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the roasted garlic, stir well to incorporate, and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and bring it to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the wine has nearly completely evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft and the soup is slightly thickened, 20 to 25 minutes. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat is rendered, about 4 minutes. Add the leeks, onions, salt, pepper, and thyme, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are very soft but not colored, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the roasted garlic, stir well to incorporate, and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and bring it to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the wine has nearly completely evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft and the soup is slightly thickened, 20 to 25 minutes.

2. Add the bread cubes to the soup to thicken, as desired. When the bread is soft, puree the soup in a blender or use a handheld immersion blender. Return the pureed soup to the pot. Add the cream, parsley, and lemon juice, and simmer for 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning if needed. Add the bread cubes to the soup to thicken, as desired. When the bread is soft, puree the soup in a blender or use a handheld immersion blender. Return the pureed soup to the pot. Add the cream, parsley, and lemon juice, and simmer for 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning if needed.

3. Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with chopped chives, and serve hot. Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with chopped chives, and serve hot.

About 2 quarts, 4 to 6 servings

Roasted Garlic 12 ounces garlic (about 5 large heads)2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon salt1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Cut a piece of aluminum foil to measure approximately 12 8 inches. Preheat the oven to 350F. Cut a piece of aluminum foil to measure approximately 12 8 inches.

2. Slice the top quarter off each head of garlic, and place the garlic, cut side up, on one side of the piece of foil. Drizzle the oil over the garlic, and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Fold the other side of the foil over, and seal on all sides to form an airtight pouch. Transfer the pouch to a baking sheet, and roast in the oven until the cloves are soft and golden brown, about 1 hour. Slice the top quarter off each head of garlic, and place the garlic, cut side up, on one side of the piece of foil. Drizzle the oil over the garlic, and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Fold the other side of the foil over, and seal on all sides to form an airtight pouch. Transfer the pouch to a baking sheet, and roast in the oven until the cloves are soft and golden brown, about 1 hour.