2. Combine the apples, vodka, apple juice, sugar, and lemon juice in a blender, and blend for 30 seconds on high speed, or until smooth. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve (or a cheesecloth-lined strainer) into a bowl, firmly pressing the solids with a flexible spatula or the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Chill the liquid in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Combine the apples, vodka, apple juice, sugar, and lemon juice in a blender, and blend for 30 seconds on high speed, or until smooth. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve (or a cheesecloth-lined strainer) into a bowl, firmly pressing the solids with a flexible spatula or the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Chill the liquid in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

3. Place the ice in a c.o.c.ktail shaker. Add the apple mixture and shake vigorously until well chilled. Strain into the chilled serving gla.s.ses, and serve immediately. Place the ice in a c.o.c.ktail shaker. Add the apple mixture and shake vigorously until well chilled. Strain into the chilled serving gla.s.ses, and serve immediately.

4 to 6 servings

Spinach, Cherry, and Goat Cheese Salad with Warm Bacon Dressing Fresh sweet cherries make this salad special-it's definitely a wonderful way to enjoy them when they are in season, which is typically from late spring to early summer. If you happen to live in cherry country-mostly the cooler climates of Northern California, Washington, Oregon, and New York-consider yourself lucky. Try to find beautiful plump, deep reddish-black cherries for this recipe.

8 ounces sliced bacon, diced cup finely chopped red onion1 teaspoon minced garlic teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more if neededPinch of salt, plus more if needed1 tablespoons Creole or other coa.r.s.e-grain mustard cup red wine vinegar2 tablespoons sugar cup vegetable oil8 cups fresh spinach, tough stems removed, leaves washed and spun dry (about 12 ounces)1 cup fresh cherries, pitted and cut in half4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled 1. Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Pour off all but cup of the rendered bacon drippings from the skillet. Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Pour off all but cup of the rendered bacon drippings from the skillet.

2. Add the onion to the drippings remaining in the skillet, and cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, pepper, and salt and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the mustard and vinegar and cook, stirring, to deglaze the pan. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve it. Remove the skillet from the heat and whisk in the oil. Return the bacon to the skillet and adjust the seasoning to taste. Add the onion to the drippings remaining in the skillet, and cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, pepper, and salt and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the mustard and vinegar and cook, stirring, to deglaze the pan. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve it. Remove the skillet from the heat and whisk in the oil. Return the bacon to the skillet and adjust the seasoning to taste.

3. Divide the spinach evenly among six salad plates. Arrange the cherries around the edges, scatter the goat cheese over the top, and drizzle the warm bacon dressing over the salad. Serve immediately. Divide the spinach evenly among six salad plates. Arrange the cherries around the edges, scatter the goat cheese over the top, and drizzle the warm bacon dressing over the salad. Serve immediately.

6 servings

Apple Tarragon Granita Once this begins to freeze, you will be astounded at the color: shiny ice crystals with bright green flecks. The flavor is delicately herby and amazingly refreshing. This is the granita of all granitas! Serve this as dessert or as a palate cleanser between courses.

cup sugar cup fresh tarragon leaves (from about 4 large sprigs)3 cups apple juice4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1. Place the sugar and tarragon in a food processor or blender, and pulse until the tarragon is finely ground and the sugar is green. Transfer the tarragon sugar to a medium bowl; add the apple juice and lemon juice, and whisk to combine. Let the mixture stand for 10 minutes, stirring it occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved. Place the sugar and tarragon in a food processor or blender, and pulse until the tarragon is finely ground and the sugar is green. Transfer the tarragon sugar to a medium bowl; add the apple juice and lemon juice, and whisk to combine. Let the mixture stand for 10 minutes, stirring it occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved.

2. Pour the mixture into a 9-inch square nonreactive metal baking pan, and place it in the freezer. Stir the mixture, pulling a fork back and forth through it every 45 minutes or so for 4 hours, or until frozen. The mixture will become a fluffy, icy concoction. Pour the mixture into a 9-inch square nonreactive metal baking pan, and place it in the freezer. Stir the mixture, pulling a fork back and forth through it every 45 minutes or so for 4 hours, or until frozen. The mixture will become a fluffy, icy concoction.

3. To serve the granita, spoon it into chilled dishes. To serve the granita, spoon it into chilled dishes.

4 to 6 servings

Apricot Clafouti This is a French country dessert that is traditionally made with cherries, but the tart-sweet flavor of in-season apricots makes for a nice alternative. The texture falls somewhere between a custardy cake and a pancake, and the clafouti is delicious served warm from the oven. The almond flour adds a little bit of nutty sweetness.

3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the baking dish3 eggs cup whole milk cup heavy cream1 tablespoon brandy1 whole vanilla bean cup almond flour cup sugar teaspoon salt1 pounds (about 6) apricots, halved and pittedConfectioners' sugar, for garnish (optional) cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted, for garnish (optional) 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter an oval 1-quart gratin dish, about 12 by 8 inches or other dish of similar size, with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter, and then dust it with a bit of flour to coat the bottom and sides of the dish; tap the dish to expel any extra flour. Preheat the oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter an oval 1-quart gratin dish, about 12 by 8 inches or other dish of similar size, with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter, and then dust it with a bit of flour to coat the bottom and sides of the dish; tap the dish to expel any extra flour.

2. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the eggs, milk, heavy cream, brandy, and melted b.u.t.ter. Using a small knife, slice the vanilla bean down the middle and sc.r.a.pe out the tiny seeds. Discard the bean (or save it for another purpose), and add the seeds to the egg mixture. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the eggs, milk, heavy cream, brandy, and melted b.u.t.ter. Using a small knife, slice the vanilla bean down the middle and sc.r.a.pe out the tiny seeds. Discard the bean (or save it for another purpose), and add the seeds to the egg mixture.

3. In a separate medium mixing bowl, combine the almond flour, all-purpose flour, sugar, and salt, and stir to blend. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients, and whisk until just incorporated. In a separate medium mixing bowl, combine the almond flour, all-purpose flour, sugar, and salt, and stir to blend. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients, and whisk until just incorporated.

4. Spread the apricots across the bottom of the prepared baking dish, cut sides down. Pour the batter over the apricots. Bake until the clafouti is golden brown and just firm, with a spongelike texture, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let it cool for 10 minutes before serving. Spread the apricots across the bottom of the prepared baking dish, cut sides down. Pour the batter over the apricots. Bake until the clafouti is golden brown and just firm, with a spongelike texture, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let it cool for 10 minutes before serving.

5. Garnish, if desired, with confectioners' sugar and toasted almonds. Garnish, if desired, with confectioners' sugar and toasted almonds.

6 to 8 servings

Braised Apples, Roasted Acorn Squash, and Fresh Thyme Don't worry about cutting the squash and apples into perfect cubes-just make them uniform in size. Once these babies come together in the end, it will be a tender, b.u.t.tery, sweet, tart, herby mix-all that nature has to offer. It is shown with the Pan-Roasted Duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s with Apple Cider Reduction on chapter "Out On the Range".

2 pounds acorn squash, peeled (see Note), halved, seeded, and cut into roughly -inch dice (about 4 cups)3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, melted teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground nutmeg teaspoon salt2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter1/3 cup diced red onion (small dice) teaspoon freshly ground white pepper2 Fuji or Gala apples, cut into roughly -inch dice (about 2 cups) cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves 1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 450F. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, toss the squash with the melted b.u.t.ter, cinnamon, nutmeg, and teaspoon of the salt. Transfer the squash to the prepared baking sheet, and roast in the oven for 15 minutes, or until golden and fork-tender. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for at least 5 minutes. In a medium bowl, toss the squash with the melted b.u.t.ter, cinnamon, nutmeg, and teaspoon of the salt. Transfer the squash to the prepared baking sheet, and roast in the oven for 15 minutes, or until golden and fork-tender. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool for at least 5 minutes.

3. Heat the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, the remaining teaspoon salt, and the pepper and cook until the onion is soft, about 2 minutes. Add the diced apples and the chicken stock, and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, or until the apples are barely tender. (Don't cook the apples too long-you want them to retain their shape.) Remove from the heat. Heat the 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, the remaining teaspoon salt, and the pepper and cook until the onion is soft, about 2 minutes. Add the diced apples and the chicken stock, and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, or until the apples are barely tender. (Don't cook the apples too long-you want them to retain their shape.) Remove from the heat.

4. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the roasted squash, the thyme, and the braised apples with their cooking liquid. Toss gently to combine, and serve warm. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the roasted squash, the thyme, and the braised apples with their cooking liquid. Toss gently to combine, and serve warm.

4 servings

Nectarine and Mascarpone Tart in a Sugar Cookie Crust The nectarines and mascarpone here are a play on the quintessential flavor combo of peaches and cream, and they work extremely well together. The result is a simpler and lighter version of cheesecake that will impress even the most hard-core cheesecake aficionados. The uncooked nectarines give this tart a cool, fresh quality.

25 sugar cookies, coa.r.s.ely broken (about 6 ounces; about 2 cups pieces)4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, meltedOne 8-ounce container mascarpone cheese8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature cup sour cream cup sugar teaspoon vanilla extract1/8 teaspoon almond extract4 or 5 small firm-ripe nectarines, halved, pitted, and thinly sliced cup peach jam, warmed 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Finely grind the sugar cookies in a food processor. Add the melted b.u.t.ter, and blend until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the mixture over the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Bake until the color darkens, pressing the sides with the back of a spoon if they begin to slide, about 8 minutes. Remove from the oven, set aside on a wire rack, and allow to cool completely. Finely grind the sugar cookies in a food processor. Add the melted b.u.t.ter, and blend until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the mixture over the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Bake until the color darkens, pressing the sides with the back of a spoon if they begin to slide, about 8 minutes. Remove from the oven, set aside on a wire rack, and allow to cool completely.

3. Combine the mascarpone, cream cheese, sour cream, sugar, vanilla extract, and almond extract in a medium bowl, and beat with a handheld electric mixer on low speed until smooth. Spread this filling in the cooled crust. Cover loosely, and refrigerate until the filling is set, for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Combine the mascarpone, cream cheese, sour cream, sugar, vanilla extract, and almond extract in a medium bowl, and beat with a handheld electric mixer on low speed until smooth. Spread this filling in the cooled crust. Cover loosely, and refrigerate until the filling is set, for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.

4. Carefully arrange the nectarine slices on top of the chilled filling, fanning the slices out in concentric circles to cover as much of the tart as possible. Brush with the warm jam. Carefully arrange the nectarine slices on top of the chilled filling, fanning the slices out in concentric circles to cover as much of the tart as possible. Brush with the warm jam.

5. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours before serving. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours before serving.

8 servings

Pear Tartlets with Homemade Creme Fraiche A beautiful, impressive dessert for a holiday table that looks like much more trouble than it is. Make the filling and cut out the pastry rounds the day before you want to serve these, and they will come together in no time.

1 large egg1/3 cup plus 3 teaspoons sugar3 tablespoons all-purpose flour4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest teaspoon ground cardamom2 pinches freshly ground black pepper8 ounces frozen puff pastry, thawed but still cold3 firm-ripe pears, such as Anjou1 lemon, halved cup apricot preservesHomemade Creme Fraiche (recipe follows) or vanilla ice cream, for serving 1. In a small bowl, whisk the egg with the 1/3 cup sugar until blended. Add the flour and stir to combine. In a small bowl, whisk the egg with the 1/3 cup sugar until blended. Add the flour and stir to combine.

2. Combine the b.u.t.ter, vanilla bean, orange zest, cardamom, and pepper in a small, heavy saucepan, and cook over high heat until the b.u.t.ter is light golden brown and has a nutty aroma, about 3 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean, sc.r.a.ping the seeds into the melted b.u.t.ter. (Discard the sc.r.a.ped vanilla bean pod or reserve it for another use.) Allow the b.u.t.ter to cool slightly; then add it to the flour mixture and stir well to combine. Allow to cool to room temperature. Then refrigerate, covered, until thoroughly chilled, about 1 hour. (This filling can be prepared up to 3 days in advance.) Combine the b.u.t.ter, vanilla bean, orange zest, cardamom, and pepper in a small, heavy saucepan, and cook over high heat until the b.u.t.ter is light golden brown and has a nutty aroma, about 3 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean, sc.r.a.ping the seeds into the melted b.u.t.ter. (Discard the sc.r.a.ped vanilla bean pod or reserve it for another use.) Allow the b.u.t.ter to cool slightly; then add it to the flour mixture and stir well to combine. Allow to cool to room temperature. Then refrigerate, covered, until thoroughly chilled, about 1 hour. (This filling can be prepared up to 3 days in advance.) 3. Cut the puff pastry sheet in half, and roll each half out to approximately 1/8-inch thickness. Using a sharp knife and a small plate as a guide, cut out three 6-inch rounds from each piece of puff pastry. Transfer the rounds to two ungreased baking sheets, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to overnight. Cut the puff pastry sheet in half, and roll each half out to approximately 1/8-inch thickness. Using a sharp knife and a small plate as a guide, cut out three 6-inch rounds from each piece of puff pastry. Transfer the rounds to two ungreased baking sheets, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to overnight.

4. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

5. Using a sharp knife, cut approximately 1 inch off the top of each pear, so that the remaining fruit is more or less spherical. Peel, halve, and core the pears. Rub them with the juice of half a lemon to keep them from discoloring. Place 1 pear half, cut side down, on a work surface, and slice it crosswise into about 1/8-inch-thick slices. Do not separate the slices. Repeat with the remaining pear halves. Squeeze more lemon juice over the sliced pears. Reserve any uneven pieces and the end pieces separately. Using a sharp knife, cut approximately 1 inch off the top of each pear, so that the remaining fruit is more or less spherical. Peel, halve, and core the pears. Rub them with the juice of half a lemon to keep them from discoloring. Place 1 pear half, cut side down, on a work surface, and slice it crosswise into about 1/8-inch-thick slices. Do not separate the slices. Repeat with the remaining pear halves. Squeeze more lemon juice over the sliced pears. Reserve any uneven pieces and the end pieces separately.

6. Remove the puff pastry rounds from the refrigerator, and place 1 heaping tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter filling in the center of each round. Using 1 pear half for each round, decoratively fan the slices in a tight, overlapping circle so that they cover the pastry round. The slices should not extend beyond the edge of the pastry. (If you like, cut any uneven slices or end pieces of pear into small wedge-shaped pieces and place them in the center of the tartlets to form rosettes.) Sprinkle teaspoon of the remaining sugar over each tartlet, and bake for about 30 minutes, or until the pears are tender and the tartlets are lightly browned around the edges. Remove the puff pastry rounds from the refrigerator, and place 1 heaping tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter filling in the center of each round. Using 1 pear half for each round, decoratively fan the slices in a tight, overlapping circle so that they cover the pastry round. The slices should not extend beyond the edge of the pastry. (If you like, cut any uneven slices or end pieces of pear into small wedge-shaped pieces and place them in the center of the tartlets to form rosettes.) Sprinkle teaspoon of the remaining sugar over each tartlet, and bake for about 30 minutes, or until the pears are tender and the tartlets are lightly browned around the edges.

7. While the tartlets are baking, heat the apricot preserves in a small saucepan (thin them with a small amount of water if necessary). While the tartlets are baking, heat the apricot preserves in a small saucepan (thin them with a small amount of water if necessary).

8. Use a pastry brush to gently brush the top of each tartlet with some of the warm preserves. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a dollop of Homemade Creme Fraiche or vanilla ice cream, as desired. Use a pastry brush to gently brush the top of each tartlet with some of the warm preserves. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a dollop of Homemade Creme Fraiche or vanilla ice cream, as desired.

6 servings

Homemade Creme Fraiche A recipe for do-it-yourself thickened cream with a subtle nutty flavor.

1 teaspoon well-shaken b.u.t.termilk1 cup heavy cream 1. Combine the b.u.t.termilk and cream in a small saucepan, and heat gently to lukewarm (100F). Transfer the mixture to a small container and let it sit, lightly covered, at room temperature until thickened to the consistency of sour cream. Depending on the temperature of the room, this can take between 12 and 36 hours, with overnight being the general rule. Combine the b.u.t.termilk and cream in a small saucepan, and heat gently to lukewarm (100F). Transfer the mixture to a small container and let it sit, lightly covered, at room temperature until thickened to the consistency of sour cream. Depending on the temperature of the room, this can take between 12 and 36 hours, with overnight being the general rule.

2. Stir the thickened creme fraiche. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use. It will continue to thicken and take on a tangier flavor as it ages. The creme fraiche will keep for up to 10 days. Stir the thickened creme fraiche. Cover, and refrigerate until ready to use. It will continue to thicken and take on a tangier flavor as it ages. The creme fraiche will keep for up to 10 days.

1 cup

Cole Crops: Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower

Roasted Brussels Sprouts This is a simple dish but, oh, so good. The Brussels sprouts end up sweet and tender, with crispy edges and a light coating of lemony, garlicky, Parmesan goodness.

2 pounds Brussels sprouts, stem ends trimmed, halved lengthwise5 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon minced garlic teaspoon grated lemon zest cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more to taste 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Toss the Brussels sprouts in 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, and season with the salt and pepper. Transfer them to a baking sheet and spread them out in one even layer. Toss the Brussels sprouts in 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, and season with the salt and pepper. Transfer them to a baking sheet and spread them out in one even layer.

3. Roast until the Brussels sprouts are crisp-tender and lightly caramelized around the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Immediately transfer them to a large mixing bowl, and add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, minced garlic, lemon zest, and Parmesan. Toss to coat evenly, sprinkle with more Parmesan as desired, and serve. Roast until the Brussels sprouts are crisp-tender and lightly caramelized around the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Immediately transfer them to a large mixing bowl, and add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, minced garlic, lemon zest, and Parmesan. Toss to coat evenly, sprinkle with more Parmesan as desired, and serve.

4 servings

Braised Kohlrabi with Fennel and Leeks Kohlrabi has been described as an ideal garden vegetable as long as you don't plant too much. It is a very productive plant and is easy to grow. Though it is the child of "wild cabbage" and literally means "cabbage turnip," it has been neglected in our repertoire. Maybe this is because its flavor is less a.s.sertive than its other family members-broccoli, cauliflower, and asparagus. We don't know why, because it's good! Try it.

2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter3 large heads kohlrabi, cut into -inch-thick wedges2 leeks, white and light green parts, well rinsed in several changes of water and sliced into -inch-thick rounds1 large bulb fennel, cored and sliced cup dry white wine3 cups vegetable or chicken stock, or canned low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth4 sprigs fresh thyme3 sprigs fresh fennel fronds, plus 1 tablespoon chopped1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. Combine the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in a large, deep saute pan. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted and the foam has subsided, add the kohlrabi, leeks, and fennel. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, browning the kohlrabi on both sides. Add the wine and cook until it has reduced by half. Then add the vegetable stock, thyme, and fennel fronds, and season with the salt and pepper. Cook, partially covered, for 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are crisp-tender. Combine the olive oil and b.u.t.ter in a large, deep saute pan. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted and the foam has subsided, add the kohlrabi, leeks, and fennel. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, browning the kohlrabi on both sides. Add the wine and cook until it has reduced by half. Then add the vegetable stock, thyme, and fennel fronds, and season with the salt and pepper. Cook, partially covered, for 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are crisp-tender.

2. Remove the thyme sprigs. Serve the vegetables in a shallow bowl with some of the braising liquid, garnished with the chopped fennel fronds. Remove the thyme sprigs. Serve the vegetables in a shallow bowl with some of the braising liquid, garnished with the chopped fennel fronds.

4 servings

Emeril's Quick Cabbage in Beer This salty-sweet caramelized cabbage is the perfect accompaniment to the Honey-Brined Pork Chops with Nectarine Chutney on chapter "Out On the Range".

4 tablespoons ( stick) b.u.t.ter2 cups chopped onions3 bay leaves teaspoon crushed red pepper1 tablespoon minced garlic1 teaspoon saltOne 4- to 5-pound cabbage, cored and chopped into 2-inch piecesOne 12-ounce bottle American lagerstyle beer 1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a 12-inch or larger skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, bay leaves, crushed red pepper, garlic, and salt, and cook for 3 minutes. Raise the heat to high and add half of the cabbage. Cook, stirring as needed, until the cabbage begins to caramelize and shrinks in the pan, about 6 minutes. Add the remaining cabbage and cook for another 6 minutes, stirring as needed and sc.r.a.ping up any caramelized bits. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a 12-inch or larger skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions, bay leaves, crushed red pepper, garlic, and salt, and cook for 3 minutes. Raise the heat to high and add half of the cabbage. Cook, stirring as needed, until the cabbage begins to caramelize and shrinks in the pan, about 6 minutes. Add the remaining cabbage and cook for another 6 minutes, stirring as needed and sc.r.a.ping up any caramelized bits.

2. Add the beer, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the cabbage is flavorful and tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Serve hot. Add the beer, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the cabbage is flavorful and tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Serve hot.

6 to 8 servings

Curry-Scented Roasted Cauliflower Oh, babe. Don't let the simplicity of this recipe fool you. This quick dish is da bomb and would be right at home on your dinner table next to roasted chicken or grilled meats. Dig in!

2 small heads cauliflower (3 to 3 pounds total), cored and cut into medium florets6 tablespoons ghee or clarified b.u.t.ter, melted (see Notes)2 teaspoons kosher salt2 teaspoons curry powder teaspoon cayenne pepper teaspoon garam masala (see Notes) 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Place the cauliflower in a large mixing bowl. Place the cauliflower in a large mixing bowl.

3. In a smaller mixing bowl, combine the ghee and all the remaining ingredients. Stir to blend well, and then pour the spice mixture over the cauliflower. Toss until the cauliflower is thoroughly coated with the ghee and spices. In a smaller mixing bowl, combine the ghee and all the remaining ingredients. Stir to blend well, and then pour the spice mixture over the cauliflower. Toss until the cauliflower is thoroughly coated with the ghee and spices.

4. Transfer the cauliflower to a large baking sheet, and roast until it is caramelized around the edges and crisp-tender, 18 to 20 minutes, stirring it once midway through cooking. Serve hot. Transfer the cauliflower to a large baking sheet, and roast until it is caramelized around the edges and crisp-tender, 18 to 20 minutes, stirring it once midway through cooking. Serve hot.

Notes: Ghee is b.u.t.ter that has been slowly melted until the solids and liquid separate. The solids fall to the bottom and the b.u.t.ter is cooked until the milk solids are browned and the moisture evaporates, resulting in a nutty, caramel-like flavor. This last step is what defines ghee from regular clarified b.u.t.ter. Ghee is used primarily in Indian cooking, but is wonderful for any high-heat cooking preparation since it has a higher smoke point than b.u.t.ter. You can find it in many Middle Eastern markets or you can easily make your own at home.

Garam masala is a blend of ground Indian spices that comes in many variations, but can include black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, c.u.min, cardamom, dried chiles, fennel, mace, nutmeg, and other spices. Garam means "warm" or "hot" in Indian. Today it is easy to find commercially bottled garam masala in the spice aisle of most grocery stores.

4 to 6 servings

Tuscan Kale and White Bean Ragout Tuscan kale-also known as Lacinato kale, black kale, and dinosaur kale-is one of my favorite greens. Its dark green, puckered leaves are hearty and hold up well in any dish. Braise it with onions, garlic, bay leaf, and white beans . . . talk about a meal-in-one!

2 tablespoons olive oil1 bay leaf2 cloves garlic, smashed and roughly chopped teaspoon crushed red pepper1 small red onion, sliced1 pounds Tuscan kale, rinsed, patted dry, and cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide slices teaspoon kosher salt, plus more if needed teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more if needed3 cups cooked white beans, or two 15-ounce cans cannellini beans or white beans, drained and rinsed1 cup canned diced tomatoes, with their juices cup vegetable or chicken stock, or canned low-sodium vegetable or chicken brothExtra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling 1. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the bay leaf, garlic, crushed red pepper, and red onion. Cook until the onion begins to wilt and the garlic begins to turn golden around the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the kale, salt, and pepper, and cook for another 2 minutes. Then add the white beans, tomatoes, and stock. Cover, and cook until the kale is wilted and cooked through, about 15 minutes. Taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the bay leaf, garlic, crushed red pepper, and red onion. Cook until the onion begins to wilt and the garlic begins to turn golden around the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the kale, salt, and pepper, and cook for another 2 minutes. Then add the white beans, tomatoes, and stock. Cover, and cook until the kale is wilted and cooked through, about 15 minutes. Taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

2. Transfer the ragout to a serving dish, and drizzle it with extra-virgin olive oil to taste. Serve hot. Transfer the ragout to a serving dish, and drizzle it with extra-virgin olive oil to taste. Serve hot.

4 to 6 servings

Braised Broccoli Rabe The a.s.sertive flavor of broccoli rabe gets a boost here from the fragrant toasted garlic and crushed red pepper . . . just the way they do it in parts of Italy. This simple side dish would be wonderful alongside the Braised Lamb Shanks on chapter "Out On the Range" and the Creamy Polenta on chapter "From the Mill".

cup olive oil teaspoon crushed red pepper3 tablespoons thinly sliced garlic2 bunches broccoli rabe, cut ends trimmed (about 2 pounds total)1 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth1 teaspoon salt 1. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it is hot but not smoking, add the crushed red pepper and garlic, and cook until fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds. Add the broccoli rabe in batches, stirring between additions, and cook until slightly wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and salt, stir to combine, and cover the skillet. Cook until the greens are just tender, stirring occasionally, 4 to 5 minutes. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it is hot but not smoking, add the crushed red pepper and garlic, and cook until fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds. Add the broccoli rabe in batches, stirring between additions, and cook until slightly wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and salt, stir to combine, and cover the skillet. Cook until the greens are just tender, stirring occasionally, 4 to 5 minutes.

2. Transfer the broccoli rabe to a serving bowl, and continue to cook the braising liquid until it has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Drizzle the braising liquid over the broccoli rabe, and serve hot. Transfer the broccoli rabe to a serving bowl, and continue to cook the braising liquid until it has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Drizzle the braising liquid over the broccoli rabe, and serve hot.

4 servings

Thistles, Stalks, and Pods