Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Heat the olive oil in a pan and fry the onions with a little salt and pepper until soft but not browned, 68 minutes. Wilt the spinach leaves in a large pan in several batches, stirring. As each batch is wilted, transfer to a colander. Press down on the spinach with the back of a ladle to squeeze out the excess water. Let the spinach cool slightly, then roughly chop.

Put the onion and spinach in a large bowl and grate over a little nutmeg. Add the feta, egg, egg yolk, cream, and a generous grinding of black pepper. Add a pinch of salt to taste, bearing in mind that the feta is already salty. Finally, fold in the pine nuts and 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan. Keep refrigerated until ready to use.

Heat the oven to 400F. Line the tart sh.e.l.l with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake until set and lightly golden, 1520 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until golden brown, 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 325F. Use a sharp knife to trim off the overhanging pastry, then set aside to cool.

Spread the filling evenly in the pastry sh.e.l.l, then sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan. Bake until the top is golden brown and the filling has set, 3540 minutes. Let cool slightly before unmolding, slicing, and serving.

Crab and tarragon tart This tart is light, but-at the same time-indulgent. I advise against using canned crabmeat because the excess brine in it will dilute the custard and make the pastry soggy. Fresh crabmeat is greatly superior in taste, too.

SERVES 6 6 AS A FIRST COURSE OR AS A FIRST COURSE OR 4 4 AS A LIGHT LUNCH AS A LIGHT LUNCH.

10 ounces, or about 2 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) 1 pound crabmeat scant 1 cup creme fraiche cup sour cream 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon small bunch of fresh tarragon, leaves minced 2 extra-large eggs

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 910 inches in diameter and 11 inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Line the pastry sh.e.l.l with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake until set and lightly golden, 1520 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Take the pastry sh.e.l.l out of the oven and let cool slightly. Using a sharp knife, trim off the excess pastry level with the rim.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350F. Pick over the crabmeat and discard any pieces of sh.e.l.l or cartilage. In a large mixing bowl, lightly beat together the creme fraiche, sour cream, mustard, Parmesan, and lemon zest and juice. Stir in the crabmeat and tarragon, then season well with salt and pepper to taste. Lightly beat the eggs and stir into the mixture. Pour into the pastry sh.e.l.l.

Bake the tart until the filling is puffed and golden on top but still slightly wobbly in the center, 3540 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and let it cool a little before slicing and serving.

Artichoke, asparagus, and ham quiche This is a wonderful quiche to make when local asparagus is in season or when you have leftover glazed ham (see Chapter 4).

SERVES 46 46 10 ounces, or about 2 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) 10 ounces asparagus 3 extra-large eggs 1 cup creme fraiche scant 1 cup grated Gruyere 1 cup cooked ham cut into cubes 810 ounces bottled artichoke hearts in olive oil, drained and halved or quartered

Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 910 inches in diameter and 11 inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim the ends of the asparagus and peel the tough stalks. Cut the spears into finger lengths, then blanch in boiling salted water until just tender and bright green, about 3 minutes. Drain and refresh in a bowl of ice water, then drain again.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Line the pastry sh.e.l.l with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake until set and lightly golden, 1520 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Take the pastry sh.e.l.l out of the oven and cool slightly. Using a sharp knife, trim off the excess pastry level with the rim of the pan.

For the filling, beat together the eggs and creme fraiche with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir in three-quarters of the Gruyere. Evenly scatter the cooked ham, artichoke hearts, and asparagus over the bottom of the pastry sh.e.l.l. Spoon in the filling to come just below the rim (you may not need all the filling). Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top. Bake until the filling is set and golden on top, 3035 minutes. Let cool slightly, then unmold and slice. Eat warm or at room temperature.

Lemon, leek and dolcelatte tart This is an easy, free-form tart. As it is filled and then baked, the bottom of the pastry sh.e.l.l will not be as crisp as one that has been prebaked "blind." If you are making the pastry yourself, add the finely grated zest of a small lemon for extra zing.

SERVES 4 4.

4 large leeks, about 2 pounds in total, washed 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter leaves from a few sprigs of fresh thyme 10 ounces, or about 2 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) 2/3 cup creme fraiche cup creme fraiche 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon lemon juice cup crumbled Dolcelatte 1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash

Remove the outer leaves from the leeks and trim off the ends, then slice finely. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large pan over medium heat. As it begins to foam, add the leeks, thyme, and some salt and pepper. Cover the pan and cook until the leeks are soft but not colored, 810 minutes. Lift the lid and give the leeks a stir every once in a while. Remove the lid and stir over high heat to evaporate any excess moisture in the leeks. Transfer to a mixing bowl and let cool.

Preheat the oven to 400F with a large baking sheet inside. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness. Cut out a 10-inch-diameter circle. Drape the pastry over the rolling pin and transfer to another baking sheet.

Mix the creme fraiche, Parmesan, grated lemon zest and juice, and three-quarters of the Dolcelatte with the leeks. Season to taste, then stir in the egg.

Spread the leek and cheese filling evenly over the pastry, leaving a 1-inch border. Scatter the remaining Dolcelatte over the filling. Fold the pastry border in over the filling and carefully crimp the edges. Brush the crimped edges with the egg wash.

Put the tart on its baking sheet onto the hot sheet in the oven. Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 350F and continue baking until the pastry is golden brown, 1520 minutes longer. Let cool for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.Wild mushroom tart with Parmesan and walnut pastry The flavors in this tart are earthy and rich. When wild mushrooms are in season, I use a combination of cepes (porcini), chanterelles, trompettes de la mort, and any others that are available. At other times of year, a mixture of sliced portabellos and cremini mushrooms does the job.

SERVES 46 46 10 ounces, or about 2 2/3 recipe, walnut and Parmesan pastry (see Chapter 9) recipe, walnut and Parmesan pastry (see Chapter 9) 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 shallots, minced leaves from a few sprigs of fresh thyme 12 ounces mixed fresh wild mushrooms, large ones sliced 1 cup creme fraiche cup heavy cream 1 extra-large egg 1 extra-large egg yolk teaspoon fine sea salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 910 inches in diameter and 11 inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Line the pastry sh.e.l.l with foil and fill it with pie weights. Bake until the pastry is set and lightly golden, 1520 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until the pastry is golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 325F. Use a sharp knife to trim off the overhanging pastry, then set the pastry sh.e.l.l aside to cool.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a frying pan and add the shallots. Saute the shallots until they begin to soften, 34 minutes. Add the thyme leaves, mushrooms, and some salt and pepper. Fry the mushrooms over high heat until any moisture they release has evaporated, 45 minutes. Transfer the mushroom mixture to a bowl and let cool.

For the custard, whisk together the creme fraiche, heavy cream, egg, egg yolk, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl.

Once cooled, spread the mushrooms evenly in the tart sh.e.l.l and pour in the custard. Bake the tart until the custard is golden and slightly puffed, 3545 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes before unmolding. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.

vegetables and salads I've included a selection of vegetable dishes and salads using seasonal ingredients in this chapter. Even as a young lad, I understood the importance and joy of eating locally grown fruits and vegetables. My dad moved us around a lot, and in one place we lived I used to spend summer vacations cutting asparagus or picking potatoes for spending money. Lunch was usually a simple soup made with vegetable tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, but it tasted of the garden because the ingredients were super-fresh. When the season gets into full swing, taste a home-grown asparagus spear alongside an imported one, and you'll know what I mean.

Walnut, celery, endive, and apple salad Roasted winter vegetables Glazed Brussels sprouts with chestnuts and pancetta Roasted tomatoes with marjoram Spicy cauliflower stir-fry Braised celery hearts with bacon Caramelized fennel and red onions Artichokes braised with onions and bacon Endive, goat cheese, and strawberry salad with pine nuts New potato, pea, and fava bean salad with mustard dressing Grilled eggplant with balsamic, feta, and mint Mixed mushroom salad Braised red cabbage with apple Pickled onions PiccalilliWalnut, celery, endive, and apple salad This is a simple, modern take on the cla.s.sic Waldorf salad. To make it a main course, you can add slices of cold smoked chicken or leftover roast chicken or turkey.

SERVES 4 4.

2 heads of Belgian endive 4 celery ribs 2 apples squeeze of lemon juice handful of toasted walnut halves, chopped Dressing: 3 tablespoons mayonnaise (see Chapter 9) 2 tablespoons plain yogurt teaspoon celery salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice

First, prepare the dressing by combining all the ingredients in a bowl and seasoning with black pepper to taste.

Trim off the bases of the endive heads and separate the leaves. Scatter a few leaves over each serving plate. Trim and roughly chop the celery, including any leaves, then place in a bowl. Core and thinly slice the apples, add to the celery, and toss with a little lemon juice to prevent them from discoloring. Add half the walnuts and toss well. Divide among the serving plates and scatter the remaining walnuts over the top. Either drizzle the dressing over the salad or serve in individual bowls on the side.

Roasted winter vegetables I'm a big fan of root vegetables, particularly the less attractive ones that tend to be overlooked in the vegetable display, such as celery root, rutabaga, and kohlrabi. Each vegetable has a distinctive flavor that is intensified when roasted. An obvious pairing with any roast, this dish can also be converted into a vegetarian main course with the addition of some robust salad leaves, a creamy yogurt dressing, and a sprinkling of soft goat cheese.

SERVES 46 46 large rutabaga large turnip large celery root 1 kohlrabi (optional) 2 large carrots 2 large parsnips olive oil for drizzling few sprigs of fresh thyme and rosemary, leaves stripped clear honey for drizzling (optional)

Heat the oven to 400F with one large or two medium roasting pans inside. Peel the rutabaga, turnip, celery root, and kohlrabi, if using, then cut them into -inch-thick chunks. Peel the carrots and parsnips and cut lengthwise into halves or quarters, similar to the thickness of the other root vegetables.