Raised game pie Shepherd's pie Deep-dish chicken pie Smoked salmon and horseradish cream tartlets Fish pie with oysters and scallops Spinach, feta, and pine nut tart Crab and tarragon tart Artichoke, asparagus, and ham quiche Lemon, leek, and Dolcelatte tart Wild mushroom tart with Parmesan and walnut pastry

Raised game pie An old-fashioned British "raised" pie has a deep case made from a strong, hot-water pastry (sometimes called "short flake" in the U.S.). A pie like this is perfect sustenance for a day out hunting or mushroom-picking. I've made individual pies, but you could also make a large one to share (bake for an extra 1015 minutes). You'll need to plan ahead, because the finished pies have to set overnight.

MAKES 4 4 INDIVIDUAL PIES INDIVIDUAL PIES.

Hot-water-crust pastry: 12/3 cups all-purpose flour cups all-purpose flour teaspoon fine sea salt 1 extra-large egg 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons lard 1/3 cup water cup water Pie filling: 8 ounces boneless loin of venison 5 ounces boneless partridge, pheasant, or guinea fowl b.r.e.a.s.t.s 2 ounces thick-sliced lean bacon, fat trimmed, chopped 7 ounces fresh bulk pork or venison sausage 1 tablespoon each chopped fresh parsley and sage grated zest of 1 lemon 5 juniper berries, finely ground with a pinch of sea salt 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash For serving: pickled onions (see Chapter 6) piccalilli (see Chapter 6)

Begin by making the pastry. Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl and make a well in the middle. Crack the egg into the well and sprinkle some of the flour over the egg to cover it. Put the b.u.t.ter, lard, and water in a small pan and heat gently. Once the b.u.t.ter and lard have melted, increase the heat and bring to a boil.

Pour the boiling water and fat around the edge of the bowl and quickly stir everything together using a table knife. Knead the dough lightly until smooth. It will be quite soft at this stage. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until the pastry is firm, at least 1 hour.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Trim the game meat of any fat or sinew, then cut into -inch cubes. Mix with the bacon, sausage, herbs, lemon zest, and crushed juniper berries and season with salt and pepper. Divide the mixture into four equal portions and roll into b.a.l.l.s.

Cut off one-third of the pastry for making the pie lids. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Roll out the remaining pastry on a lightly floured work surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness. Cut out four 5-inch-diameter circles. Roll out the reserved pastry to the same thickness, and cut out four 2-inch-diameter circles for the lids.

Place a stuffing ball in the middle of each pastry base and place a lid on top. Brush the border of the pastry base with the egg wash, then mold it up and around the filling to meet the lid. Curl the edge of the lid up to meet the top inside edge of the pie case and pinch together to seal. Repeat to make the other three pies. Crimp the edges to decorate. Refrigerate until the pastry feels firm.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Make a neat steam hole in the center of each pie lid with a small knife. Bake the pies for 15 minutes. Remove them from the oven and brush evenly with the remaining egg wash. Reduce the oven temperature to 325F and bake until the pastry is cooked and the center of the pie is hot, 2030 minutes longer. To test, insert a metal skewer into the center of a pie for a few seconds, then feel it against your hand or lip: It should feel hot to the touch. Let the pies cool on a wire rack. Serve cold, with pickled onions and piccalilli.

Shepherd's pie A traditional shepherd's pie is made with ground lamb, while the similar cottage pie is made with beef. Both freeze well (add 1015 minutes to the cooking time if baking from frozen). A little bit of Branston Pickle enhances the flavor of the lamb in this recipe.

SERVES 4.

1 pound lean ground lamb 23 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, minced 1 large carrot, minced 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cup red wine 1 cups chicken stock (see Chapter 9) 1 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce leaves from a handful of fresh thyme sprigs leaves from a sprig of fresh rosemary, chopped 2 tablespoons minced Branston Pickle Topping: 1 pounds baking potatoes, cut into chunks 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons hot milk 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 2 extra-large egg yolks

Put a wide, cast-iron or other heavy-based pan over medium to high heat. Season the ground lamb with salt and pepper and fry in a thin layer of oil until evenly browned, about 10 minutes. (Fry the meat in two batches if necessary.) Transfer the lamb to a bowl using a slotted spoon.

Add a little more olive oil to the pan and stir in the onion, carrot, and garlic. Fry, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are golden brown, 45 minutes. Add the flour and tomato paste and stir for a couple of minutes longer. Pour in the red wine and sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan to dislodge the browned sediment. Let the wine boil until it has almost all evaporated and the pan is quite dry.

Pour in the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Return the lamb to the pan and add the Worcestershire sauce and herbs. Turn the heat to the lowest setting and partially cover the pan. Simmer, stirring every once in a while, until the lamb is tender and the sauce has thickened, 3040 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender when pierced with a small knife, 1520 minutes. Drain well, then return to the hot pan over low heat to dry out briefly. Press the potatoes through a potato ricer into a large bowl. Mix in the b.u.t.ter, hot milk, and 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan. Season well to taste, then beat in the egg yolks and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350F. Fold the minced Branston Pickle through the lamb mixture, then pour into an 8-cup baking dish. Spoon the mashed potato generously on top of the lamb filling, starting from the outside and working your way into the middle. Fluff up the mashed potato with a fork to make rough peaks. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan and grind a little black pepper over the top. Bake until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbling up around the sides, 2025 minutes. Serve with extra Branston Pickle, if you wish.

Deep-dish chicken pie No other food makes me quite as enjoyably nostalgic as a good homemade chicken pie. When we were young, my mother used to make a wonderful chicken pie from scratch-pastry, chicken stock, and everything-with whatever little time she had. Here is my version of this ultimate comfort food.

SERVES 4 4.

3 cups chicken stock (see Chapter 9) leaves from a sprig of fresh thyme 3 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, about 1 pounds in total 10 ounces boiling onions or shallots, peeled 7 ounces b.u.t.ton mushrooms, cleaned 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1/3 cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour cup heavy cream 1 pound, or 1 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) 2 extra-large egg yolks, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash coa.r.s.e sea salt for sprinkling

Bring the stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Add the thyme leaves, then poach the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s until just firm and cooked through, 1012 minutes. With a pair of kitchen tongs, transfer the poached chicken to a plate and let cool.

Tip the boiling onions into the stock and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue simmering until both the onions and mushrooms are tender, 45 minutes longer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onions and mushrooms to a large bowl.

Increase the heat under the stock and boil until it has reduced to 1 cups. Meanwhile, cut the chicken into bite-size pieces and add to the onions and mushrooms. When the stock has reduced, pour it into a pitcher.

Return the pan to the heat. Melt the b.u.t.ter in the pan and stir in the flour. Keep stirring over medium heat for 34 minutes. Gradually pour in the hot stock, stirring until smooth. Simmer until thickened, 510 minutes, then stir in the cream and bring back to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The sauce should be thick and creamy. Pour it over the chicken and vegetables and mix well. Let cool completely.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Divide the pastry into two portions: two-thirds and one-third. Roll out the larger portion on a lightly floured surface to a circle large enough to line a pie dish or pan, or a ca.s.serole, that is 910 inches in diameter and 1-2 inches deep. Line the dish and trim off the excess pastry. For a good-looking result, put a pie bird or pie funnel in the middle of the dish. Spread the filling evenly in the dish.

Roll out the remaining pastry to form a lid for the pie and cut a cross in the middle to fit around the pie bird. (If you're not using a pie bird, cut a small cross anyway, to serve as a steam vent.) Brush the pastry rim with the egg wash, then drape the pastry lid over the pie and press down around the rim to seal. Use a sharp knife to cut off any excess pastry around the rim, then crimp the edges. If you wish, decorate the pie with pastry leaves made with the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Brush the pie top and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs with the egg wash and sprinkle the top with coa.r.s.e sea salt. Bake until the pastry is golden brown and the sauce is bubbling from the steam hole, about 35 minutes.

Smoked salmon and horseradish cream tartlets These tarts make a perfect first course for a dinner party. To get ahead, bake the pastry sh.e.l.ls 23 days in advance and store in an airtight container to keep them crisp. (I rarely make my own puff pastry, but always buy a good brand made with b.u.t.ter.) The smoked salmon filling can also be prepared beforehand, but bear in mind that the flavor of the raw shallots will become stronger with time. Serve with dressed salad leaves on the side.

MAKES 4 4.

9 ounces puff pastry, thawed if frozen 7 ounces hot-smoked salmon 1 large shallot, minced celery rib, minced 2 tablespoons cream-style horseradish 6 tablespoons creme fraiche pinch of cayenne pepper squeeze of lemon juice small handful of fresh dillweed, leaves chopped, plus a few fronds for garnish 4 large slices of smoked salmon for garnish

Begin by making the tartlet sh.e.l.ls. Cut the pastry into four portions, then roll out each one on a lightly floured surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness. p.r.i.c.k all over with a fork. Use them to line four 4-inch tartlet pans with removable bottoms. Let the pastry extend a little above the rim of the pan. Use a pair of kitchen scissors to trim away bigger pieces of excess pastry because they are vulnerable to breaking off. Carefully stack the pastry-lined pans, one on top of the other, pushing the pans down to keep the shape of the pastry. Let rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Put the stacked pastry sh.e.l.ls on a baking sheet. Line the top pastry sh.e.l.l with foil and pie weights. Bake until the pastry is set and golden, 2530 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and carefully separate the tartlet pans. Place them side by side on the baking sheet and return to the oven to bake until golden brown and cooked through, 510 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pans. When cool, use a sharp knife to trim off the excess pastry level with the rims.

Put the hot-smoked salmon, shallot, and celery in a food processor and blend until smooth. Add the horseradish and creme fraiche and pulse for a few more seconds until they become incorporated into the mixture. Season to taste with salt, pepper, cayenne, and lemon juice. Fold in the chopped dill. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the mixture set a little and for the flavors to come together.

Remove the tartlet sh.e.l.ls from the pans. Spread the filling in the sh.e.l.ls. Drape the smoked salmon slices attractively over the filling and garnish the tarts with a few dill fronds.Fish pie with oysters and scallops The scallops lend sweetness to the pie, while fresh oysters help to enrich and season the filling with their natural salt. b.u.t.tered spinach is a good side dish for this.

SERVES 46 46 1 pounds firm, skinless fish fillets, such as salmon and/or monkfish 6 fresh oysters, shucked 6 sea scallops, cut in half handful of fresh basil leaves Sauce: 1 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 shallots, minced 1/3 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine 1/3 cup Noilly Prat cup Noilly Prat 2/3 cup fish stock (see Chapter 9) cup fish stock (see Chapter 9) 2/3 cup heavy cream cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard (optional) squeeze of lemon juice Topping: 1 pounds baking potatoes, cut into large chunks 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into cubes cup hot milk 2 extra-large egg yolks Parmesan for grating

First, prepare the sauce for the filling. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a pan and sweat the shallots until soft. Add the white wine and Noilly Prat and reduce by half. Add the stock and bubble away again until reduced by half. Pour in the cream and boil until reduced to a thick sauce consistency. Strain through a sieve and discard the shallot. Stir in the mustard, if using, and check for seasoning, adding a little lemon juice to taste. Let cool completely.

Next, make the topping. Put the potatoes into a pan of salted water and bring to a boil. Cook until tender when pierced with a knife, 1520 minutes. Drain well, then push them through a potato ricer. Mix in the b.u.t.ter and hot milk until melted and well incorporated. Season to taste and let cool slightly. Beat the egg yolks lightly, then mix into the cooled potato. Set aside while you prepare the fish.

Heat the oven to 350F. Check the fish fillets for any small bones, removing any with tweezers, then cut into 1-inch chunks. Season lightly, then gently fold the fish, oysters, and scallops into the sauce with the basil leaves. Transfer to an 8-cup baking dish. Spread the potato over the filling and run a fork over it for a rustic finish. Grate Parmesan evenly over the top. Bake until the pie is bubbling and golden brown on top, 2535 minutes.

Spinach, feta, and pine nut tart This tart is based on the Greek spanakopita spanakopita. As I've never been a huge fan of phyllo pastry, my version uses a basic short pastry crust instead.

SERVES 4 4.

10 ounces, or about 2 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9) 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 sweet onions, minced 1 pound spinach leaves, washed and drained nutmeg for grating 8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 1 extra-large egg 1 extra-large egg yolk scant 1 cup heavy cream 1/3 cup toasted pine nuts cup toasted pine nuts cup freshly grated Parmesan

Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to about 1 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 910 inches in diameter and 11 inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.