CHAPTER 9. FROM TORRES STRAIT TO BATAVIA.

[August 1770.]

FRIDAY, 24th. In the P.M. had light Airs from the South-South-West, with which, after leaving b.o.o.by Island, as before mentioned, we steer'd West-North-West until 5 o'clock, when it fell Calm, and the Tide of Ebb which sets to the North-East soon after making, we Anchor'd in 8 fathoms soft sandy bottom, b.o.o.by Island bearing South 50 degrees East, distant 5 miles; Prince of Wales Isles extending from North-East by North to South 55 degrees East. There appear'd to be an open clear pa.s.sage between these Islands extending from North 64 degrees East to East by North. At 1/2 past 5 in the morning in purchasing* (* Weighing the anchor.) the Anchor, the Cable parted about 8 or 10 fathoms from the Anchor; I immediately order'd another Anchor to be let go, which brought the ship up before she had drove a cable's length from the Buoy; after this we carried out a Kedge, and warped the ship nearer to it, and then endeavour'd to sweep the Anchor with a Hawser, but miss'd it, and broke away the Buoy rope.* (* The kedge is a small anchor. Sweeping is dragging the middle of a rope, or hawser, held at the two ends from two boats some distance apart, along the bottom, with the object of catching the fluke of the anchor as it lies on the bottom, and so recovering it. It is a long and wearisome operation if the bottom is uneven. Cook, however, having already lost one of his large anchors, could not afford to leave this without an effort.) We made several Attempts afterwards, but did not succeed. While the Boats were thus employed we hove up the Kedge Anchor, it being of no more use. At Noon Lat.i.tude observed 10 degrees 30 minutes South. Winds at North-East, a fresh breeze; the Flood Tide here comes from the same Quarter.

Sat.u.r.day, 25th. Winds at North-East and East-North-East, a gentle breeze. Being resolv'd not to leave the Anchor behind while there remain'd the least probability of getting of it, after dinner I sent the Boats again to sweep for it first with a small line, which succeeded, and now we know'd where it lay we found it no very hard matter to sweep it with a Hawser. This done, we hove the Ship up to it by the same Hawser, but just as it was almost up and down the Hawser slip'd, and left us all to do over again. By this time it was dark, and obliged us to leave off until daylight in the morning, when we sweep'd it again, and hove it up to the bows, and by 8 o'Clock weigh'd the other anchor, got under sail, and stood away North-West, having a fresh breeze at East-North-East. At Noon we were by observation in the Lat.i.tude of 10 degrees 18 minutes South, Longitude 219 degrees 39 minutes West, having no land in sight, but about 2 miles to the Southward of us lay a Shoal,* (* Cook Reef.) on which the Sea broke, and I believe a part of it dry. At low Water it extended North-West and South-East, and might be about 4 or 5 Leagues in Circuit; depth of Water at this time and since we weigh'd 9 fathoms.

TRACK OF ENDEAVOUR FROM TORRES STRAIT TO JAVA. AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER 1770.

Sunday, 26th. Fresh breezes at East in standing to the North-West. We began to Shoalden our water from 9 to 7 fathoms, and at 1/2 past one, having run 11 Miles since Noon, the boat which was a head made the signal for Shoal Water, immediately upon which we let go an Anchor, and brought the Ship up with the sails standing as the boats was but a little way ahead, having but just relieved the Crew, and at same time we saw from the Ship Shoal Water* (* Cook Shoal.) in a manner all round us, and both wind and Tide setting upon it. We lay in 6 fathoms with the Ship, but upon sounding about her found hardly 2 fathoms, a very rocky bottom, not much above 1/2 a cable's length from us from the east round by the North and West as far as South-West, so that there was no way to get clear but the way we came. This was one of the many Fortunate Escapes we have had from Shipwreck, for it was near high water, and there run a short c.o.c.kling sea that would soon have bulged the Ship had she struck. These Shoals that lay a fathom or 2 under Water are the most dangerous of any, for they do not shew themselves until you are close upon them, and then the water upon them looks brown like the reflection of dark clouds. Between 3 and 4 the Ebb began to make, when I sent the Master to sound to the Southward and South Westward, and in the meantime, as the Ship tended,* (* Swung to the tide.) hove up the Anchor, and with a little Sail stood to the Southward and afterwards edged away to the Westward, and got once more out of danger, where at sun set we Anchor'd in 10 fathoms Sandy bottom. Having a fresh of wind at East-South-East, at 6 o'clock in the morning we weighed and stood West, with a fresh of wind at East, having first sent a boat ahead to sound. I did intend to have steer'd North-West until we had made the Coast of New Guinea, designing if Possible to touch upon that Coast, but the meeting with these Shoals last night made me Alter the Course to West, in hopes of meeting with fewer dangers and deeper Water; and this we found, for by Noon we had deepned our water gradually to 17 fathoms, and this time we were by observation in the Lat.i.tude of 10 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 220 degrees 12 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since yesterday at noon North 76 degrees West, 11 Leagues, no land in sight.

[Off South Coast of New Guinea.]

Monday, 27th. Fresh breezes between the East by North and East-South-East, with which we steer'd West until sun set; depth of Water from 27 to 23 fathoms. We now Reef'd the Topsails, shortened Sail, and hoisted in the pinnace and Long boat up alongside, and afterwards kept upon a Wind all night under our Topsails, 4 hours on one Tack and four hours on the other; depth of Water 25 fathoms, very even soundings. At daylight made all the Sail we could, and steer'd West-North-West until 8 o'clock, then North-West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 9 degrees 56 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 00 minutes West; Variation 2 degrees 30 minutes East. Course and distance sail'd since yesterday at Noon North 73 degrees 33 minutes West, 49 miles.

Tuesday, 28th. Fresh breezes at East and East by South and fair weather. Continued a North-West Course until sun set, at which time we shortned sail, and haul'd close upon a Wind to the Northward; depth of Water 21 fathoms. At 8 Tack'd and stood to the Southward until 12, then stood to the Northward under little Sail until daylight, sounding from 25 to 17 fathoms; Shoalding as we stood to the Northward. At this time we made sail and steer'd North in order to make the land of New Guinea; from the time of our making sail until noon the depth of Water gradually decreased from 17 to 12 fathoms, a stony and sh.e.l.ly bottom. We were now by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 8 degrees 52 minutes South, which is in the same Parrallel as the Southern parts of New Guinea as it is laid down in the Charts; but there are only 2 points so far to the South, and I reckon we are a degree to the Westward of both, and for that reason do not see the Land which trends more to the Northward. Our Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday is North-North-West, 69 Miles; Longitude in 221 degrees 27 minutes West. The Sea in many places is here cover'd with a kind of a brown sc.u.m, such as Sailors generally call sp.a.w.n; upon our first seeing it it alarm'd us, thinking we were among Shoals, but we found the same depth of Water were it was as in other places; neither Mr. Banks nor Dr. Solander could tell what it was, altho' they had of it to Examine.

Wednesday, 29th. Continued standing to the Northward, with a fresh gale at East by South and South-East until 6 o'clock, having very irregular and uncertain soundings from 24 to 7 fathoms. At 4 we made the Land from the Mast head, bearing North-West by North, and which appear'd to be very low. At 6 it extended from West-North-West to North-North-East, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. At this time hauld close upon a wind to the Eastward until 7 o'clock, then Tack'd and stood to the Southward until 12, at which time we wore and stood to the Northward until 4, then lay her Head off until daylight, when we again saw the Land, and stood North-North-West directly for it, having a fresh gale at East by South. Our Soundings in the night were from 17 to 5 fathoms, very irregular, without any sort of Rule with respect to our distance from the Land. At 1/2 past 6 a small low island, laying about a League from the Main, bore North by West, distant 5 miles; this island lays in the Lat.i.tude of 8 degrees 13 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 25 minutes West. I find it laid down in the Charts by the Name of St. Bartholomew or Whermoysen. We now steer'd North-West by West, West-North-West, West by North, West by South, and South-West by West, as we found the land to lay, having a Boat ahead of the Ship sounding; depth of water from 5 to 9 fathoms. When in 7, 8 or 9 fathoms we could but just see the Land from the Deck; but I did not think we were at above 4 Leagues off, because the land is exceeding low and level, and appeared to be well cover'd with wood; one sort appeared to us to be Cocoa Nutt Trees. By the Smookes we saw in different parts as we run along sh.o.r.e we were a.s.sured that the Country is inhabited. At Noon we were about 3 Leagues from the land, the Westermost part of which that we could see bore South 79 degrees West; our Lat.i.tude by Observation was 8 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude 221 degrees 44 minutes West. The Island, St. Bartholomew, bore North 74 degrees East, distant 20.* (* The ship was now off the south coast of New Guinea, and near what is known as Princess Marianne Strait, which separates Frederick Henry Island from the main island. All this coast is very shallow, but very imperfectly charted to the present day.)

Thursday, 30th. Fresh breezes at South-East, East-South-East, and East by South. After steering South-West by West, 6 miles, we discover'd on our Starboard bow and ahead a Strong appearance of Shoal Water, and by this time we had Shoald our water from 10 to 5 fathoms; upon which I made the Pinnace Signal to Edge down to it, but she not going far enough, we sent the Yawl to sound in it, and at the same time hauld off close upon a Wind, with the Ship until 4, at which time we had run 6 Miles, but did not depen our water anything. We then Edged away South-West, 4 Miles more, but finding still Shoal Water we brought too, and call'd the Boats on board by Signal, hoisted them in, and then hauld off close upon a wind, being at this time about 3 or 4 Miles from the Land. The Yawl found only 3 fathoms water in the place where I sent her to sound, which place I weather'd about 1/2 a mile. Between 1 and 2 we pa.s.sed a Bay or Inlet, before which lies a small Island that seems to Shelter it from the Southerly winds; but I very much doubt their being Water behind it for Shipping. I could not attempt it because the South-East Trade wind blows right in, and we have not as yet had any land breezes. We stretched off to Sea until 12 o'Clock, at which time we were 10 and 11 Leagues from the Land, and had depen'd our Water to 29 fathoms; we now tack'd and stood in until 4 o'Clock, when, being in 6 1/2 fathoms, we tack'd and lay her head off until day light, at which time we saw the land bearing North-West by West, distant about 4 Leagues. We now made sail and steer'd West-South-West, and then West by South, but coming into 54 fathoms we hauld off South-West until we depen'd our Water to 8 fathoms; we then keept away West by South and West, having 9 fathoms and the Land just in sight from the Deck, which we judged not above 3 or 4 Leagues off, as it is everywhere exceeding low. At Noon we were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 8 degrees 38 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 34 minutes West. St. Bartholomew Isle bore North 69 degrees East, distant 74 Miles.

[Off Cape Walsche, New Guinea.]

Friday, 31st. Between 12 and 1 in the P.M. Steer'd North-North-West, in which time we Shoalded our Water from 8 to 5 1/2, which I thought was little enough, and therefore keept away again West, and soon depen'd it to 7 fathoms, which depth we keept until 6, having the land just in sight from the Deck. At this time the Western Extream bore North, distant about 4 Leagues, and Seem'd to end in a point and turn away to the Northward; we took it to be Point St. Augustine or Walsche Caep, Lat.i.tude 8 degrees 24 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 55 minutes West.* (* This position is correct. Mr. Green had been a.s.siduously observing lunars, and it appears strange that the error of the position of the north point of Australia was not discovered; but doubtless the discrepancy was put down to current.) We now shortned sail and hauld off South-South-West and South by West, having the wind at South-East and South-East by East, a Gentle breeze; we stood off 16 Miles, having from 7 to 27 fathoms, deepning gradually as we run off. At midnight we Tacked and stood in until daylight, at which time we could see no land, and yet we had only 5 1/2 fathoms. We now Steer'd North-West, having the same deepth of Water until near 9 o'Clock, when we began to Depen our Water to 6 1/2 and 7 fathoms. By this I thought that we were far Enough to the Westward of the Cape, and might haul to the Northward with Safety, which we now did, having the Wind at North-East by East, a light breeze. By Noon we had increased our Water to 9 fathoms, and were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 8 degrees 10 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log; by which I conjectur'd that we had meet with a strong Current setting round the Cape, not only to the Northward, but to the Westward also, otherwise we ought to have seen the Land, which we did not.

[September 1770.]

Sat.u.r.day, 1st September. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh breeze from the South-East with which we keept standing in for the land North-East and East-North-East, close upon a wind, until half past 6, when we Anchor'd in 4 1/2 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, as we have every were found upon the Coast. About an hour before we Anchor'd we saw the land from the Mast head extending from the East by North to South-South-East, all very low; at the time we Anchor'd we found a small drean* (* Drain.) of a Tide setting away to the North-West, which continued until 2 in the morning, when the Water had fell 9 feet or better. This Tide of Ebb was then succeeded by the Flood, which came from the South-West; yet we did not find the Water to rise much upon a perpendicular, or else the greatest fall of the Tide had not been well attended to in the night, for at 6, when we got under sail, we had no more than 3 fathoms under the ship, and yet we could not see the land from the Deck. After getting under sail we stood to the Northward with a light breeze at East, and deepned our Water by noon to 10 fathoms, having the Land just in sight from the Mast head to the South-East. At this time we were in the Lat.i.tude of 7 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 42 minutes West; Port St. Augustine bore South 10 degrees West, distant 15 Leagues.

Sunday, 2nd. In the P.M. had Calm until 2, when a light breeze sprung up at North by East, and we stood in for the Land East by North until 5, at which time we got the wind from the South-West, a light breeze, with which we steer'd North-East, edging in for the land, having it in sight from the Deck, and which I judged to be about 3 or 4 Leagues off, being very low land. Found the Variation to be 2 degrees 34 minutes East, and a little before 8 o'Clock, having but little wind, we Anchor'd in 7 fathoms, soft Muddy bottom. In the Afternoon and evening we saw several Sea Snakes, some of which the people in the Boat alongside took up by hand. At daylight in the Morning we got under sail, and stood away to the North-North-East, having a fresh gale at East, which by noon brought us into the Lat.i.tude of 7 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 30 minutes West; Depth of Water 13 fathoms. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday Noon is North 24 degrees East, 27 Miles, having at this time no land in sight, for the Land, according to the Charts, trends more Easterly than the Wind would permit us to sail.

Monday, 3rd. Steer'd North by East, with a fresh breeze at East by North until 7 in the Evening, when the wind came to South-East by South, with which we keept standing to the Eastward close upon a wind all Night, having from 17 to 10 fathoms pretty even Soundings. At daylight we saw the land extending from North by East to South-East, distant about 4 Leagues. We still keept standing in for it, having the advantage of a fresh gale at East-South-East and East by South, until near 9, when, being about 3 or 4 Miles off, and in 3 fathoms, we brought too and I went ash.o.r.e in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, having a mind to land once in this Country before we quit it Altogether, which I now am determin'd to do without delay; for I found that it is only spending time to little purpose, and carrying us far out of our way, staying upon this Coast, which is so shallow that we can hardly keep within sight of land.

[Land in New Guinea.]

At the time we put off from the Ship we saw not the least sign of inhabitants; but we had no sooner landed than we saw the print of Men's feet fresh upon the sand, and a little way farther we found a small Shed or Hutt, about which lay green sh.e.l.ls of Cocoa Nutts. By this we were well a.s.sured that the inhabitants were not far off; nay, we thought we heard their Voices in the woods, which were so close and thick that we did not think it safe to venture in, for fear of an Ambuscade, as we had only a Boat's crew with us, a part of which were left to look after the boat, which lay about a 1/4 of a Mile from the Sh.o.r.e. We therefore took a walk upon the Sea beach, but had not gone above 200 Yards before we were attack'd by 3 or 4 Men, who came out of the woods a little before us, but upon our firing upon them they retir'd. Finding that we could not search the Country with any degree of Safety, we return'd to the boat, and was followed by 60, or, as some thought, about 100, of the Natives, who had advanced in small parties out of the woods; but they suffer'd us to go to our boats without giving us any trouble. We had now time to view them attentively; we thought them to be about the size and Colour of the New Hollanders, with short, Cropt Hair, and quite naked like them. I thought these of a lighter Colour; but that may be owing to a whitish Pigment with which we thought their bodies were painted, because some appeared darker than others.

Their Arms were ordinary darts of about 4 feet long, made of a kind of reed, and pointed at one end with hard wood; but what appear'd more extraordinary to us was something they had which caused a flash of fire or Smoak, very much like the going off of a pistol or small Gun, but without any report. The deception was so great that the people in the Ship actually thought that they had fire Arms; indeed, they seem'd to use these things in imitation of such, for the moment the first man we saw made his appearance he fir'd off one of these things, and while we lay looking at them in the boat 4 or 5 would let them off all at once, which had all the appearance in the world of Volleys of Small Arms; but I am confident that nothing came from them but smook, but by what means this was done, or what purpose it answer'd, we were not able to Guess. I thought the Combustable matter was contain'd in a reed or piece of small Bamboo, which they gave a Swing round in the hand and caused it to go off.* (* The natives carry hollow canes with burning tinder for making fires.)

This place lies in the Lat.i.tude of 6 degrees 15 minutes South, about 65 Leagues to the North-East of Point St. Augustine, or Walsche Caep, and is near to what is called in the Charts by the long name of Cape de la Colta de St. Bonaventura.* (* Cook's landing place in New Guinea, on the western side of this great island, was on a part of the coast scarcely known to this day. It is in the part of the island claimed by the Dutch. Cook's insatiable desire to explore is well shown in this digression from his course to Batavia.) The land is very low, like every other part of the Coast we have seen here; it is thick and Luxuriously cloathed with woods and Verdure, all of which appear Green and flourishing. Here were Cocoa nutt Trees, Bread Fruit Trees, and Plantain Trees, but we saw no fruit but on the former, and these were small and Green; the other Trees, Shrubs, Plants, etc., were likewise such as is common in the South Sea Islands and in New Holland.

Upon my return to the Ship we hoisted in the boat and made sail to the Westward, with a design to leave the Coast altogether. This, however, was contrary to the inclination and opinion of some of the Officers, who would have had me send a Party of Men ash.o.r.e to cut down the Cocoa Nutt Trees for the sake of the Nutts; a thing that I think no man living could have justified, for as the Natives had attacked us for meer landing without taking away one thing, certainly they would have made a Vigerous effort to have defended their property; in which case many of them must have been kill'd, and perhaps some of our own people too, and all this for 2 or 300 Green Cocoa Nutts, which, when we had got them, would have done us little service; besides nothing but the utmost necessity would have obliged me to have taken this method to come at refreshments.

It's true I might have gone farther along the Coast to the Northward and Westward until we had found a place where the Ship could lay so near the Sh.o.r.e as to cover the people with her Guns when landed; but it is very probable that before we had found such a place we should have been carried so far to the West as to have been obliged to have gone to Batavia by the way of the Moluccas, and on the North side of Java, where we were all utter Strangers. This I did not think was so safe a Pa.s.sage as to go to the South of Java and thro' the Straits of Sunda, the way I propose to myself to go. Besides, as the Ship is leakey, we are not yet sure wether or no we shall not be obliged to heave her down at Batavia; in this case it becomes the more necessary that we should make the best of our way to that place, especially as no new discovery can be Expected to be made in these Seas, which the Dutch have, I believe, long ago narrowly examin'd, as appears from 3 Maps bound up with the French History of Voyages to the Terra Australis, published in 1756,* (* De Brye's Voyages.) which Maps, I do suppose, by some means have been got from the Dutch, as we found the Names of many of the places are in that Language.

It should likewise seem from the same Maps that the Spaniards and Dutch have at one time or another circ.u.mnavigated the whole of the Island of New Guinea, as the most of the Names are in these 2 Languages; and such part of the Coast as we were upon I found the Chart tolerable good, which obliges me to give some Credit to all the rest, notwithstanding we neither know by whom or when they were taken, and I always understood, before I had a sight of these Maps, that it was unknown whether or no New Holland and New Guinea was not one continued land, and so it is said in the very History of Voyages these Maps are bound up in. However, we have now put this wholy out of dispute; but, as I believe, it was known before, tho' not publicly, I claim no other Merit than the Clearing up of a doubtful point. Another doubtfull point I should have liked to have clear'd up, altho' it is of very little, if of any Consequence, which is, whether the Natives of New Holland and those of New Guinea are, or were, Original, one People, which one might well suppose, as these 2 Countrys lay so near to each other, and the intermediate s.p.a.ce fill'd up with Islands. On the other hand, if these 2 people have or ever had any friendly communication with Each other it seems strange, as I have before observed, that they should not have transplanted from New Guinea over to New Holland Cocoa Nutts, Bread fruit, Plantains, etc., etc., all very useful Articles for the support of Man, that We never saw grow in the latter, and which we have now seen in the former. La Maire hath given us a Vocabulary of Words spoken by the People of New Britain (which before Dampier's time was taken to be a part of New Guinea), by which it appears that the people of New Britain speak a very different Language from those of New Holland. Now should it be found that the Natives of New Britain and those of New Guinea have had One Origin, and speak the same Language, it will follow, of Course, that the New Hollanders are a different People from both.* (* In the north of Australia the natives are distinctly allied to the Papuans, but on the east of the continent they are of a type of their own, and speak many different languages.)

[Off South-west Coast of New Guinea.]

Tuesday, 4th. Stood to the Westward all this day, having at first a moderate breeze Southerly, which afterwards freshned and Veered to South-East and East-South-East. We keept on sounding all the time, having from 14 to 30 fathoms not regular, but sometimes more and sometimes less. At noon we were in 14 fathoms; by observation in the Lat.i.tude of 6 degrees 44 minutes South, Longitude 223 degrees 51 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesteday Noon South 76 minutes West, 120 Miles.

Wednesday, 5th. Winds at East by South and South-East by East, a fresh gale and Clear weather, with which were run 118 Miles upon a South 69 degrees 15 minutes West Course, which at Noon brought us into the Lat.i.tude of 7 degrees 25 minutes South, Longitude 225 degrees 41 minutes West; depth of Water 28 fathoms, having been in soundings the whole of this day's run, generally between 10 and 20 fathoms. At half an hour past one in the Morning we past by a small low Island, which bore from us at that time North-North-West, distant 3 or 4 Miles; depth of Water 14 fathoms, and at daylight we discover'd another low Island extending from North-North-West and North-North-East, distant 2 or 3 Leagues. I believe I should have landed upon this Island to have known its produce, as it did not appear to be very small, had not the wind blown too fresh for such an undertaking, and at the time we pa.s.sed the Island we had only 10 fathoms Water, a rocky bottom; I was therefore afraid of running down to leeward for fear of meeting with Shoal Water and foul ground. These Islands have no place on the Charts, unless they are the Arrow Isles, which, if they are, they are laid down much too far from New Guinea. I found the South part of these to lay in the Lat.i.tude 7 degrees 6 minutes South, Longitude 225 degrees 0 minutes West.* (* These were probably Karang and Ennu Islands, two outliers of the Arru Islands.)

Thursday, 6th. A steady fresh gale at East by South and clear weather, with which we steer'd West-South-West. At 7 in the Evening we took in the small Sails, reefd the Topsails, and sounded, having 50 fathoms; we still keept West-South-West all night, going at the rate of 4 1/2 Miles an hour. At 10 had 42 fathoms; at 11, 37; and at 12 o'Clock 45; 1 o'Clock 49; and at 3, 120; after which we could get no ground. In the evening we caught 2 b.o.o.bies, which settled upon the rigging, and these were the first of the kind we have caught in this manner the voyage, altho' I have heard of them being caught this way in great numbers. At daylight, in the Morning, we made all the sail we could, and at 10 o'Clock saw land extending from North-North-West to West by North, distant 5 or 6 League. At Noon it bore from North to West about the same distance; our Lat.i.tude by observation was 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 227 degrees 47 minutes West. This land is of an even and moderate height, and by our run from New Guinea ought to be a part of the Arrow Isles;* (* This was the southern part of the Tenimber Islands.) but it lays a degree farther to the South than any of these Islands are laid down in the Charts. We sounded, but had no ground, with 50 fathoms of Line.

[Remarks on Charts.]

Friday, 7th. As I was not able to satisfy myself from any Chart what land it was we saw to Leeward of us, and fearing it might trend away more Southerly, and the weather being hazey so that we could not see far, we steer'd South-West, which Course by 4 o'Clock run us out of sight of the land; by this I was a.s.sured that no part of it lay to the Southward of 8 degrees 15 minutes South. We continued standing to the South-West all night under an Easey sail, having the advantage of a fresh gale at South-East by East and East-South-East, and clear moon light; we sounded every hour, but had no bottom with 100 and 120 fathoms of line. At daylight in the Morning we steer'd West-South-West, and afterwards West by South, which by Noon brought us into the Lat.i.tude of 9 degrees 30 minutes South, and Longitude 229 degrees 34 minutes West, and by our run from New Guinea ought to be in sight of Wessels Isle, which, according to the Chart is laid down about 20 or 25 Leagues from the coast of New Holland; but we saw nothing, by which I conclude that it is wrong laid down; and this is not to be wonder'd at when we consider that not only these Islands, but the lands which bound this Sea have been discover'd and explored by different people and at different times, and compiled and put together by others, perhaps some Ages after the first discoveries were made. Navigation formerly wanted many of these helps towards keeping an Accurate Journal which the present Age is possessed of; it is not they that are wholy to blame for the faultiness of the Charts, but the Compilers and Publishers, who publish to the world the rude Sketches of the Navigator as Accurate surveys, without telling what authority they have for so doing; for were they to do this we should then be as good or better judge than they, and know where to depend upon the Charts, and where not. Neither can I clear Seamen of this fault; among the few I have known who are Capable of drawing a Chart or Sketch of a Sea Coast I have generally, nay, almost always, observed them run into this error. I have known them lay down the line of a Coast they have never seen, and put down Soundings where they never have sounded; and, after all, are so fond of their performances as to pa.s.s the whole off as Sterling under the t.i.tle of a Survey Plan, etc. These things must in time be attended with bad Consequences, and cannot fail of bringing the whole of their works in disrepute.* (* Cook had good reason for writing thus, and being himself scrupulously honest and careful, he felt this scamped work to be a disgrace to seamen.) If he is so modest as to say, Such and such parts, or the whole of his plan is defective, the Publishers or Vendures will have it left out, because they say it hurts the sale of the work; so that between the one and the other we can hardly tell when we are possessed of a good Sea Chart until we ourselves have proved it.

Sat.u.r.day, 8th. Winds Easterly, with a high Sea from the same Quarter. Our Course and distance sail'd this 24 Hours is South 86 degrees 30 minutes West, 102 Miles; Lat.i.tude in 9 degrees 36 minutes South, Longitude 231 degrees 17 minutes West.

Sunday, 9th. Light Airs and Clear weather the most part of this 24 Hours. In the evening found the Variation by several Azimuths to be 0 degrees 12 minutes West, and by the Amplitude 0 degrees 5 minutes West. At Noon we were by observation in the Lat.i.tude of 9 degrees 46 minutes South, Longitude 232 degrees 7 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 52 Miles. For these 2 days past we have steer'd due West, and yet we have by observation made 16 Miles Southing--6 Miles Yesterday and 10 to-day; from which it should seem that there is a Current setting to the Southward and Westward withall, as I should suppose.

Monday, 10th. Light Airs Easterly, except in the morning, when we had it at North; at sunset found the Variation to be 0 degrees 2 minutes West, at the same time saw, or thought we saw, very high land bearing North-West, and in the Morning saw the same appearances of land in the same Quarter, which left us no room to doubt but what it was land, and must be either the Island of Timor land or Timor, but which of the 2 I cannot as yet determine.* (* This was Timor. What Cook calls Timor land is probably Timor Laut, another name for the princ.i.p.al island of the Tenimber Group.) At Noon we were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 10 degrees 1 minute South, which was 15 Miles to the Southward of that given by the Log. Longitude in per Observation 233 degrees 27 minutes West.

Tuesday, 11th. Variable light Airs and Clear weather. Steer'd North-West, in order to discover the Land plainer until 4 in the morning, at which time the wind came to North-West and West, with which we stood to the Southward until 9 o'Clock, when we Tack'd and stood North-West, having the wind at West-South-West. At sun rise in the morning we could see the land extend from West-North-West to North-East; at noon we could see it extend to the Westward as far as West by South 1/2 South, but no farther to the Eastward than North by East. We were now well a.s.sured that this was part of the Island of Timor, in consequence of which the last Island we saw must have been Timor land, the South part of which lies in the Lat.i.tude of 8 degrees 15 minutes South, Longitude 228 degrees 10 minutes, whereas in the Charts the South Point is laid down in Lat.i.tude 9 degrees 30 minutes. It is possible that the Land we saw might be some other Island; but then I cannot see how we could have miss'd seeing Timor land, soposing it to be right laid down in Lat.i.tude, as we were never to the Southward of 9 degrees 30 minutes; for my design was to have made that Island, and to have landed upon it to have seen what it produced, as it is (according to the Charts) a large Island, and not settled by the Dutch that I ever heard off. We were now in the Lat.i.tude of 9 degrees 37 minutes, Longitude 233 degrees 54 minutes West by observation of the Sun and Moon, and Yesterday we were by Observation in 233 degrees 27 minutes West. The difference is 27 minutes, which is exactly the same as what the Log gave; this, however, is a degree of accuracy in observation that is seldom to be expected.

[Off South Coast of Timor.]

Wednesday, 12th. Winds between the South and West, a light breeze and Clear weather in the P.M.; stood in sh.o.r.e until 8 o'Clock, then Tack'd and stood off, being about 6 Leagues from the Land, which at dark extend from South-West 1/2 West to North-East; at this time we sounded and had no ground with 140 fathoms of line, being not above 4 Leagues from the Land. At 12 o'Clock we Tack'd and stood in, having but little wind, and continued so until noon, at which time we were by Observation in Lat.i.tude 9 degrees 36 minutes South; the Log this 24 Hours gave 18 Miles Westing, but it did not appear by the land that we had made so much. We saw several Smoaks upon the Land by day, and fires in the Night.

Thursday, 13th. Stood in sh.o.r.e, with a light breeze at South by West until 1/2 past 5 o'Clock in the P.M., when, being a Mile and a 1/2 from the Sh.o.r.e, and in 16 fathoms, we tack'd and stood off. At this time the Extreams of the Land extended from North-East by East to West by South 1/2 South; this last was a low point, distant from us about 3 Leagues. We were right before a small Creek or Inlet into the low land, which lies in the Lat.i.tude of 9 degrees 34 minutes South. Probably it might be the same as Dampier went into in his Boat, for it did not seem to have depth of Water sufficient for anything else. In standing in sh.o.r.e we sounded several times, but found no soundings until we got within 2 1/2 Miles of the Sh.o.r.e, where we had 25 fathoms, soft bottom. We stood off Sh.o.r.e until 12 o'Clock, with the wind at South, then Tack'd and stood to the Westward 2 Hours, when the wind veer'd to the South-West and West-South-West, and then we stood to the Southward. In the Morning found the Variation to be 1 degree 10 minutes West by the Amplitude, and by the Azimuth 1 degree 27 minutes West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 9 degrees 45 minutes South, Longitude 234 degrees 12 minutes West, and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the land, which extended from North 31 degrees East to West-South-West 1/2 West. Winds at South-South-West, a Gentle breeze.

Friday, 14th. Light Land and Sea breezes; the former we had from West by North, and only a few hours in the morning, the latter we had from the South-South-West and South. With these winds we advanced but slowly to the Westward. At Noon we were about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Land, which extended from North by East to South 78 degrees West; our Lat.i.tude by Observation was 9 degrees 54 minutes South. Course and Distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 68 degrees West, 24 Miles. We saw several Smoakes ash.o.r.e in the P.M., and fires in the night, both upon the Low land and up in the Mountains.

Sat.u.r.day, 15th. In the P.M. had the Sea breezes at South-South-West and South, with which we stood to the Westward until 8 o'Clock, when being about 3 Leagues from the Land, and having very little wind, we tack'd and lay her Head off Sh.o.r.e. At 11 o'Clock we got the Land wind at North by West, with which we steer'd South-West by West along sh.o.r.e, keeping about 4 or 5 Miles from the Land on which in the morning we saw several Houses, Plantations, etc. At 9 o'Clock we got the wind at North-East by East, a light breeze; at Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Land, which extended as far to the Southward as South-West by West; our Lat.i.tude by observation was 10 degrees 1 minute South. Course and Distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 36 Miles.

Sunday, 16th. Light breezes from the North-East by East, with clear weather, except in the morning, when we had it cloudy, with a few small Showers of Rain. Steer'd along sh.o.r.e South-West and South-West by West until 6 o'Clock in the morning, when we steer'd West-South-West, and at 9, West, at which time we saw the Island Rotte right ahead. At Noon we were in the Lat.i.tude of 10 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 235 degrees 57 minutes; the South end of Timor bore North-North-West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues; the Island of Rotte extending from South 75 degrees West to North 67 degrees West, and the Island of Anaboa as Dampier calls it, or Seman* (* Semao. This island lies off the Dutch settlement of Koepang or Concordia in Timor; but Cook was right in supposing he would have received but a cold reception there. The Dutch discouraged any visits at their outlying settlements. Rotte is a large island lying off the south-west end of Timor.) as it is called in the Charts, which lies of the South end of Timor, bore North-West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 55 degrees 15 minutes West, 67 Miles. Dampier, who has given us a large and, so far as I know, an Accurate discription of the Island of Timor, says that it is 70 Leagues long and 16 Broad, and that it lies North-East and South-West. I found the East side to lie nearest North-East by East and South-West by West, and the South end to lie in the Lat.i.tude 10 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude 236 degrees 5 minutes West from Greenwich. We run about 45 Leagues along the East side, which I observed to be free from Danger, and, excepting near the South end, the Land which bounds the Sea is low for 2, 3, or 4 Miles inland, and seem'd in many places to be intersected with Salt Creeks. Behind the low land are Mountains, which rise one above another to a considerable height. We continually saw upon it smoakes by day and fires by night, and in many places houses and plantations. I was strongly importuned by some of my Officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia, on this Island, for refreshments; but this I refused to comply with, knowing that the Dutch look upon all Europeans with a Jealous Eye that come among these Islands, and our necessities were not so great as to oblige me to put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated.

[Anchor at Savu.]

Monday, 17th. Winds Easterly, with which we steer'd West-North-West until 2 o'Clock, when being pretty near the North end of Rotte, we hauled up North-North-West, in order to go between it and Anaboa. After steering 3 Leagues upon this Course we edged away North-West by West, and by 6 we were clear of all the Islands; at this time the South part of Anaboa, which lies in the Lat.i.tude of 10 degrees 15 minutes South, bore North-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Island of Rotte extending as far to the Southward as South 36 degrees West. The North End of this Island and the South end of Timor lies North 1/2 East and 1/2 West, distant about 3 or 4 Leagues from each other. At the West end of the Pa.s.sage between Rotte and Anaboa are two Small Islands; the one lays near the Rotte sh.o.r.e and the other off the South-West point of Anaboa; there is a good Channel between the 2 of 5 or 6 Miles broad, which we came thro'. Being now clear of the Islands we steer'd a West course all night until 6 a.m., when we unexpectedly saw an Island* (* Savu. An island about twenty miles in length. It is but little visited or known by others than the Dutch to this day.) bearing West-South-West, for by most of the Maps we had on board we were to the Southward of all the Islands that lay between Timor and Java; at least there were none laid down so near Timor in this Lat.i.tude by almost one half, which made me at first think it a new discovery; but in this I was mistaken. We now steer'd directly for it, and by 10 o'Clock were close in with the North side, where we saw Houses, Cocoa Nutt Trees, and a Flock of Cattle grazing; these were Temptations hardly to be withstood by people in our situation, especially such as were but in a very indifferent State of Health, and I may say mind too, for in some this last was worse than the other, since I refused to touch at the Island of Timor, whereupon I thought I could not do less than to try to procure some refreshments here, as there appeared to be plenty.* (* Cook's utter indifference as to what he eat or drank made him regard privations in the matter of food with an equanimity which was not shared by the rest of his companions.) With this View we hoisted out the Pinnace, in which I sent Lieutenant Gore in sh.o.r.e to see if there were any Convenient place to land, sending some trifles along with him to give to the Natives in case he saw any. Mr. Gore landed in a small sandy cove near to some Houses, and was met on the beach by 8 or 10 of the people, who from both their behaviour and what they had about them shew'd that they had Commerce with Europeans; upon Mr. Gore's returning with this report, and likewise that there was No Anchorage for the Ship, I sent him away with both money and goods to try to purchase some refreshments, while we keept standing on and off with the Ship. At Noon we were about a Mile from the Sh.o.r.e of the Island, which extends from South-East to West-North-West, Lat.i.tude 10 degrees 27 minutes, Longitude 237 degrees 31 minutes West.

Tuesday, 18th. As soon as Mr. Gore landed he was meet on the beach by several people, both Horse and Foot, who gave him to understand that there was a Bay to Leeward where we could Anchor, and likewise get refreshments. Upon Mr. Gore's return with this intelligence we bore away for the Bay, in which we Anchor'd at 7 o'Clock in 38 fathoms Water, Clean sandy bottom. About a Mile from Sh.o.r.e the North point of the Bay bore North 30 degrees East, 2 1/2 Miles, and the South point or West end of the Island bore South 63 degrees West. Two hours before we Anchor'd we saw Dutch Colours hoisted in a Village which stands about a Mile inland, and at day light in the Morning the same Colours were hoisted on the beach abreast of the Ship. By this I was no longer in doubt but what here was a Dutch settlement, and accordingly sent Lieutenant Gore on sh.o.r.e to wait upon the Governor, or chief person residing here, to acquaint him with the reasons that induced us to touch at this Island. Upon Mr. Gore's landing we could perceive that he was received by a Guard of the Natives, and not Dutch Troops, and Conducted up to the Village where the Colours were hoisted last night. Some time after this I received a message from him, acquainting me that he was there with the king of the Island, who had told him that he could not supply him with anything without leave from the Dutch Governor, who resided at another part of the Island, but that he had sent to acquaint him of our Arrival and request.

[At Anchor. Savu.]

Wednesday, 19th. At 2 P.M. the Dutch Governor, and king of this part of the Island, with his attendance, came on board with Mr. Gore (he having left 2 Gentlemen ash.o.r.e as Hostages). We entertained them at Dinner in the best Manner we could, gave them plenty of good Liquor, made them some considerable presents, and at their going away Saluted them with 9 Guns. In return for these favours they made many fair Promises that we should be immediately supplied with everything we wanted at the same price the Dutch East India Company had it; and that in the morning Buffaloes, Hogs, Sheep, etc., should be down on the beach for us to look at, and agree upon a price. I was not at all at a loss for Interpreters, for both Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing understood Dutch enough to keep up a Conversation with the Dutchman, and several of the Natives could speak Portuguese, which language 2 or 3 of my people understood. In the morning I went on sh.o.r.e, accompanied by Mr. Banks and several of the Officers and Gentlemen, to return the King's Visit; but my Chief Business was to see how well they would perform their Promises in regard to the things I wanted. We had not been long ash.o.r.e before we found that they had promised more than they ever intended to perform; for, instead of finding Buffaloes upon the beach, we did not so much as see one, or the least preparations making for bringing any down, either by the Dutch Factor or the King. The former pretended he had been very ill all night, and told us that he had had a letter from the Governor of Concordia in Timor, acquainting him that a ship (meaning us) had lately pa.s.sed that Island, and that if she should touch at this, and be in want of anything, he was to supply her; but he was not to suffer her to make any stay, nor to distribute, or leave behind her to be distributed, any valuable presents to the inferior Natives. This we looked upon to be Afection that hardly answer'd any purpose, unless it was leting us see how the Dutch had insinuated themselves into favour with these people, which never could be his intention. However, both he and the King still promised we should have what we wanted, but pretended the Buffaloes were far in the Country, and could not be brought down before night. With these excuses we were obliged to be satisfied. The King gave us a dinner of boil'd Pork and Rice, served up in Baskets after their manner, and Palm wine to drink; with this, and some of our own Liquor, we fair'd Tolerable well. After we had dined our Servants were called in to pertake of what remain'd, which was more than they could Eat.

Thursday, 20th. We stay'd at the King's Pallace all the Afternoon, and at last were obliged to return on board without doing anything farther than a promise of having some Buffaloes in the morning; which we had now no great reason to rely on. In the morning I went on sh.o.r.e again, and was showed one small Buffaloe, which they asked 5 Guineas for. I offer'd 3, which the man told me he would gladly take, and sent a Message to the king to let him know what I had offer'd. The Messenger soon return'd, and let me know that I could not have it under 5 Guineas; and this I refused to give, knowing it was not worth one fifth part of the money. But this, my refusal, had like to have overset all we had before done, for soon after about 100 Men, some Arm'd with Musquets, others with Lances, came down to the Landing Place. Besides the officer that commanded this party, there came along with them a Man who spoke Portuguese, and I believe was born of Portuguese Parents. This man is here (as we afterwards Understood) as an a.s.sistant to the Dutch Factor. He deliver'd to me the King's order, or rather those of the Dutch Factor, the purport of which was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pretending that the people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for nothing, etc.; whereas the Natives shew'd the greatest inclination imaginable to supply us with whatever they had, and were far more desirous of goods than money, and were, before this man came, selling us Fowls and Syrup as fast as they could bring these things down. From this and other Circ.u.mstances we were well a.s.sured that this was all the Dutchman's doing, in order to extort from us a sum of Money to put into his own pocket. There hapned to be an old Raja at this time upon the beach, whose Interest I had secured in the Morning by presenting him with a Spy-gla.s.s; this man I now took by the hand, and presented him with an old broad sword. This effectually secured him in our Interest, for the Moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese, and made him and the Officer commanded the party to sit down at his back side. Immediately after this trade was restored again for Fowls, etc., with more Spirit than ever; but before I could begin a Trade for Buffaloes, which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give 10 Guineas for 2, one of which weigh'd only 160 pounds. After this I bought 7 more at a more reasonable price, one of which we lost after he was paid for. I might now have purchased as many as I pleased, for they now drove them down to the Water side by Herds; but having got as many as I well know'd what to do with, and likewise a number of Fowls, and a large quant.i.ty of Syrup, I resolved to make no longer stay.

Friday, 21st. We got under sail, and stood away to the Westward along the North side of the Island, and another smaller Island, which lies farther to the Westward, which last bore from us at Noon South-South-East, distant 2 Leagues.

[Description of Savu.]