A Walk from London to Fulham - Part 1
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Part 1

A Walk from London to Fulham.

by Thomas Crofton Croker.

NOTE.

A series of papers which originally appeared in 'Fraser' are now, for the first time, published in a collected form with the consent of the proprietors of that Magazine. It should, however, be stated, that this is not a mere reprint, but that other matter has been inserted, and several ill.u.s.trations, which did not appear originally, are now added, by which the work is very materially increased: the whole having undergone a necessary revision.

Since the late Mr. Crofton Croker contributed to 'Fraser' the 'Walk from London to Fulham,' there have been many important changes on the road: time has continued to efface interesting a.s.sociations; more old houses have been pulled down, new ones built up, and great alterations and improvements have taken place not contemplated a few years ago. It would be impossible, for example, that any one who has not visited the locality during the last few years could recognize the narrow lanes of yesterday in the fine roads now diverging beyond the South Kensington Museum, which building has so recently been erected at the commencement of Old Brompton; but modern improvements are seemingly endless, and have of late become frequent. It is in the belief that the following pages will be an interesting and acceptable record of many places no longer in existence, that they are submitted to the public in their present shape by

T. F. DILLON CROKER.

TO THOMAS WRIGHT, ESQ., M.A., F.S.A.

MY DEAR MR. WRIGHT,

As a mark of sincere regard to an old and esteemed friend of my late Father, I offer these pages to you.

Yours most faithfully,

T. F. DILLON CROKER.

19 _Pelham Place_, _Brompton_, 1860.

MEMOIR OF THE LATE THOMAS CROFTON CROKER, F.S.A., M.R.I.A., ETC.

The late eminent genealogist, Sir W. Betham of Dublin, Ulster King-at-Arms, well known as the author of numerous works on the Antiquities of Ireland, and Mr. Richard Sainthill, an equally zealous antiquary still living in Cork, were two of the most intimate friends and correspondents of the late Mr. Crofton Croker.

The first-named gentleman drew up an elaborate table tracing the Croker pedigree as far back as the battle of Agincourt. The Croker crest-"Deus alit eos"-was granted to Sir John Croker, who accompanied Edward IV. on his expedition to France in 1475, as cup and standard-bearer; but without going back to the original generation, or tracing the Limerick or any other branch of the family, it will be sufficient to say here that the Crokers, if they did not "come over with William the Conqueror" came originally from Devonshire, and settled in Ireland in the reign of Elizabeth. Thomas Crofton Croker was the only son of Thomas Croker, who, after twenty-five years of arduous and faithful military service in North America, Holland, and Ireland, and after having purchased every step in the army, was gazetted brevet-major on the 11th May, 1802, in the same regiment which he had at first joined (the 38th, or 1st Staffordshire Foot), and in which he had uninterruptedly served. Indeed, he was so much attached to his regiment, that, in his case at least, the Staffordshire knot became perfectly symbolic. The closer the knot was drawn the firmer the tie became. He commenced, continued, and ended an honourable life of activity in the service of his country from mere boyhood, until ill-health and a broken const.i.tution forced him to sell his commission. Thomas Croker was the eldest son of Richard Croker, of Mount Long in the county of Tipperary, who died on the 1st January, 1771; and his mother was Anne, the daughter of James Long of Dublin, by the Honourable Mary Butler, daughter of Theobald the seventh Earl of Cahir.

Thomas Croker was born on the 29th March, 1761. In 1796 he married Maria, eldest daughter and co-heir of Croker Dillon of Baltidaniel in the county of Cork, and on the 15th January, 1798, Thomas Crofton Croker was born at the house of his maternal grandmother in Buckingham Square, Cork, receiving his first Christian name after his father, and his second after his G.o.dfather, the Honourable Sir E. Crofton, Bart.

While very young, during the years 1812 and 1815, Crofton Croker made several excursions in the south of Ireland, studying the character and traditions of the country, on which occasions he was frequently accompanied by Mr. Joseph Humphreys, a Quaker, afterwards master of the Deaf and Dumb Inst.i.tution at Claremont near Dublin. In 1813 he was placed with the mercantile firm of Messrs. Lecky and Mark, and in 1817 he appeared as an exhibitor in the second exhibition of the Cork Society, for he had already displayed considerable talent as an artist. In 1818 he contributed to an ephemeral production called 'The Literary and Political Examiner:' on the 22nd March of that year his father died, and he left Ireland, not to revisit it until he made a short excursion there in 1821 with Alfred Nicholson and Miss Nicholson (who afterwards became Mrs. Croker), children of the late Mr. Francis Nicholson, one of the founders of the English water-colour school, and who died in 1844 at the patriarchal age of ninety-one years.

Crofton Croker's first visit to England was paid to Thomas Moore in Wiltshire; and soon after his establishing in London he received from the late Right Hon. John Wilson Croker an appointment at the Admiralty, of which office his namesake (but no relation) was secretary, and from which he (Crofton) retired in 1850 as senior clerk of the first cla.s.s, having served upwards of thirty years, thirteen of which were pa.s.sed in the highest cla.s.s. This retirement, although he stood first for promotion to the office of chief clerk, was compulsory upon a reduction of office, and was not a matter of private convenience. In 1830 Crofton Croker married Miss Marianne Nicholson, and the result of their union was an only child, Thomas Francis Dillon Croker, born 26th August, 1831, the writer of the present memoir.

The literary labours of Crofton Croker were attended with more gratifying results than his long and unwearied official services. The 'Researches in the South of Ireland' (1824), an arrangement of notes made during several excursions between the years 1812 and 1822, was his first important work. It was published by John Murray, the father of the present publisher of the 'Quarterly Review,' and contained ill.u.s.trations by Mr. Alfred and Miss Nicholson: with the 'Fairy Legends,' however, the name of Crofton Croker became more especially a.s.sociated, the first edition of which appeared anonymously in 1825, and produced a complimentary letter from Sir Walter Scott, which has been published in all subsequent editions. The success of the first edition of the legends was such as immediately to justify a second, which appeared the next year, ill.u.s.trated with etchings after sketches by Maclise, and which was followed by a second series (Parts 2 and 3) in 1827. The third part, although it appeared under the same t.i.tle, namely 'Fairy Legends and Traditions of the South of Ireland,' may be considered as forming almost a separate work, inasmuch as it comprised the fairy superst.i.tions of Wales and other countries, in addition to those current in Ireland. A translation of the legends by the Brothers Grimm appeared in Germany in 1825, and another in Paris in 1828 ('Les Contes Irlandais, precedes d'une introduction par M. P. A. Dufau'), but it was not until 1834 that Murray published them in a condensed form in his 'Family Library,' the copyright of which edition, as revised by the author, was purchased of Murray by the late Mr. Tegg, and is now published by his son. In October, 1826, Croker was introduced to Sir Walter Scott at Lockhart's in Pall Mall.

Sir Walter recorded the interview thus:-"At breakfast Crofton Croker, author of the Irish fairy tales-little as a dwarf, keen-eyed as a hawk, and of easy, prepossessing manners, something like Tom Moore. Here were also Terry, Allan Cunningham, Newton, and others." At this meeting, Sir Walter Scott suggested the adventures of Daniel O'Rourke as the subject for the Adelphi pantomime, and, at the request of Messrs. Terry and Yates, Croker wrote a pantomime founded upon the legend, which was produced at the Adelphi the same year. It succeeded, and underwent two editions: the second was published in 1828, uniform with the legends, and ent.i.tled 'Daniel O'Rourke; or, Rhymes of a Pantomime, founded on that Story.' Croker wrote to his sister (Mrs. Eyre Coote, alive at the present time) the following account of the breakfast party at Lockhart's, which, though already published in 'The Gentleman's Magazine' (November, 1854), is sufficiently interesting to be repeated. He first mentions "the writing and preparing for the Adelphi Theatre a Christmas pantomime from the renowned adventures of Daniel O'Rourke, two or three meetings with Sir Walter Scott, some anxious experiments in lithography under the directions of Mr. Coindet, one of the partners of Englemann's house of Paris, who has lately opened an establishment here, which will be of the utmost importance to the advancement of the art in this country, and of which I hope soon to send you specimens." Then he adds: "To tell half the kindness and attention which I received from Sir Walter Scott would be impossible. The breakfast party at Lockhart's consisted of Allan Cunningham, Terry (the actor), Newton (the artist), a Dr. Yates of Brighton, Captain, Mr., and Mrs. Lockhart, Miss Scott, Mr. Hogg, and your humble servant. We had all a.s.sembled when Sir Walter entered the room.

Maclise's sketch does not give his expression, although there is certainly a strong likeness-a likeness in it which cannot be mistaken; but I have a very rough profile sketch in pen and ink by Newton, which is admirable, and which some time or other I will copy and send you. When I was introduced to the 'Great Unknown' I really had not the power of speaking; it was a strange feeling of embarra.s.sment, which I do not remember having felt before in so strong a manner; and of course to his 'I am glad to see you, Mr. Croker, you and I are not unknown to each other,' I could say nothing. He contrived to say something neat to every one in the kindest manner-a well-turned compliment, without, however, the slightest appearance of flattery-something at which every one felt gratified. After speaking for a few moments to Mr. Terry and Allan Cunningham, he returned to where I stood fixed and 'mute as the monument on Fish Street Hill;' but I soon recovered the use of my tongue from the easy manner in which he addressed me, and no longer seemed to feel myself in the presence of some mighty and mysterious personage. He spoke slowly, with a Scotch accent, and in rather a low tone of voice, so much so, indeed, that I found it difficult to catch every word. He mentioned my 'Fairy Legends,' and hoped he should soon have the very great enjoyment of reading the second volume. 'You are our-I speak of the Celtic nations' (said Sir Walter)-'great authority now on fairy superst.i.tion, and have made Fairy Land your kingdom; most sincerely do I hope it may prove a golden inheritance to you. To me,' (continued Sir Walter) 'it is the land of promise of much future entertainment. I have been reading the German translation of your tales and the Grimms' very elaborate introduction.' Mr. Terry mentioned having received from me Daniel O'Rourke in the shape of a Christmas pantomime. 'It is an admirable subject,' said Sir Walter, 'and if Mr. Croker has only dramatized it with half the skill of tricking up old wives' tales which he has shown himself to possess, it must be, and I prophesy, although I have not seen it, it will be as great a golden egg in your nest, Terry, as Mother Goose was to one of the greater theatres some years ago.' He then repeated by heart part of the conversation between Dan and the Eagle, with great zest. I must confess it was most sweet from such a man. But really I blush, or ought to blush, at writing all this flattery." Here the origin of Maclise's ill.u.s.trations to the legends is thus given by the editor of the 'Gentleman's Magazine.' "The artist, who had not then quitted his native city of Cork, was a frequent visitor to Mr. Sainthill (the author of 'Olla Podrida'), at the time that the first edition of the work appeared. Mr. Sainthill read the tales aloud from time to time in the evening, and Maclise would frequently, on the next morning, produce a drawing of what he had heard. These were not seen by Mr. Croker until his next visit to Cork: but when he did see them he was so much pleased with them that he prevailed upon Mr. Sainthill to allow them to be copied for his forthcoming edition: and this was done by Maclise, and the drawings were engraved by W. H. Brooke, and Maclise's name was not attached to them, but merely mentioned by Mr. Croker in his preface."

Scott made favourable mention of the 'Fairy Legends' in the collected edition of the 'Waverley Novels' published in 1830. In a note on Fairy Superst.i.tions to Chapter XI. of 'Rob Roy,' speaking of the elfin traditions peculiar to the wild scenery where Avon Dhu or the River Forth has its birth, he observes: "The opinions entertained about these beings are much the same with those of the Irish, so exquisitely well narrated by Mr. Crofton Croker." Again, in his 'Letters on Demonology and Witchcraft,' Scott says: "We know from the lively and entertaining legends published by Mr. Crofton Croker, which, though in most cases, told with the wit of the editor and the humour of his country, contain points of curious antiquarian information" as to what the opinions of the Irish are. And again, speaking of the Banshee: "The subject has been so lately and beautifully investigated and ill.u.s.trated by Mr. Crofton Croker and others, that I may dispense with being very particular regarding it."

This was indeed gratifying from such an authority. The late Thomas Haynes Bayley dedicated to Crofton Croker a volume ent.i.tled 'Songs from Fairy Land.'

Having dwelt at considerable length upon the legends, the required limits of this notice will not permit more than a reference to the literary works of Mr. Croker which succeeded them; and as there is but occasion for their enumeration, they shall be here given in the order of their appearance, merely premising that the tales of 'Barney Mahoney' and 'My Village _versus_ Our Village,' were not by Mr. Croker, although they bore his name: they were, in reality, written by Mrs. Croker. The list stands thus:-

18289. 'The Christmas-Box, an Annual Present for Children, a collection of Tales edited by Mr. Croker, and published by Harrison Ainsworth' (Sir Walter Scott, Lockhart, Ainsworth, Maria Edgeworth, and Miss Mitford were among the contributors).

1829. 'Legends of the Lakes; or, Sayings and Doings at Killarney, collected chiefly from the Ma.n.u.scripts of R. Adolphus Lynch, Esq., H. P.

King's German Legion, with ill.u.s.trations by Maclise (Ebers).' A second edition, compressed into one volume as a guide to the Lakes, appeared in 1831. (Fisher.)

From this time Croker became contributor to the 'Gentleman's' and 'Fraser's' Magazines. In 1832 he was a steward at the famous literary dinner given to Hogg the Ettrick Shepherd.

1835. 'Landscape Ill.u.s.trations to Moore's Irish Melodies, with Comments for the Curious.' (Only one number appeared.) (Power.)

1837. 'A Memoir of Joseph Holt, General of the Irish Rebels in 1798.

From Holt's Autobiographical MS. in the possession of Sir W. Betham.'

(Colburn.)

'The Journal of a Tour through Ireland in 1644, translated from the French of M. de la Boullaye le Gouz, a.s.sisted by J. Roche, Father Prout, and Thomas Wright.' (Boone.) Dedicated to the elder Disraeli, "in remembrance of much attention and kindness received from him many years ago;" which dedication was cordially responded to by that author.

1839. 'The Popular Songs of Ireland.' (Colburn.)

1843. A Description of Rosamond's Bower, Fulham {18} (the residence of Mr. Croker for eight years), with an inventory of the pictures, furniture, curiosities, etc., etc. (Privately printed.)

It was here that Moore, Rogers, Maria Edgeworth, Lucy Aikin, "Father Prout" (Mahony), Barham (Ingoldsby), Sydney Smith, Jerdan, Theodore Hook, Lover, Planche, Lords Braybrooke, Strangford, and Northampton, Sir G.

Back, John Barrow, Sir Emerson Tennent, Wyon, Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, T.

Wright, and many others were the guests of Mr. Croker. One room in the house was fitted up as a Museum, where such visitors delighted to a.s.semble.

During subsequent years Mr. Croker produced several minor works on antiquarian and popular subjects, some of them printed for private circulation among his friends, and others as contributions to the different societies of which he was a member. He died at his residence, 3, Gloucester Road, Old Brompton, on the 8th of August, 1854, aged 57, and was buried in the private grave of his father-in-law, Mr. Francis Nicholson, in the Brompton Cemetery, a sketch of which, by Mr. Fairholt, appears in these pages. It should not be forgotten that Mr. Crofton Croker was a contributor to the 'Amulet,' 'Literary Souvenir,' and 'Friendship's Offering,' as well as (more extensively) to the 'Literary Gazette,' when that journal possessed considerable influence under the editorship of W. Jerdan. Mr. Croker also edited for the Camden and Percy Societies (in the formation of which he took an active part) many works of antiquarian interest. He was connected, also, with the British Archaeological a.s.sociation as one of the secretaries (18449) under the presidency of Lord Albert Conyngham (the late Lord Londesborough). That recently-deceased n.o.bleman was one of Mr. Croker's most attached friends, and opposite his Lordship's pew in Grimston church, Yorkshire, a neat marble tablet was erected bearing the following inscription: "In memory of Thomas Crofton Croker, Esq., the amiable and accomplished author of the 'Fairy Legends of Ireland,' and other works, Literary and Antiquarian. This tablet is erected by his friend Lord Londesborough, 1855."

To enumerate all the societies and inst.i.tutions of which Crofton Croker was a member, honorary or otherwise, would in these pages be superfluous; but one society shall be here especially mentioned as originating with Mr. Croker and a few members of the Society of Antiquaries. In 1828 a club was established, composed of a select few F.S.A.'s, in consequence of an excursion during the summer to the site, which, in the time of the Romans, had been occupied by the city of Noviomagus. In a field at Keston, near Bromley Common in Kent, Mr. Croker had learned that the remains of a Roman building were apparent above the gra.s.s, and it was to ascertain this fact that the excursion was undertaken. An excavation was made, and a few fragments of Roman pottery and a stone coffin were discovered. From this circ.u.mstance the club was called the Noviomagian Society. Mr. Croker was elected its president, and although most of the original members had died off, he continued in that office until within a very few months of his death. There are amongst them at the present time many highly-valued friends of their late president, who succeed in keeping up their meetings in the true Noviomagian spirit. Long may they be spared to a.s.semble together, occasionally introducing fresh life to the little society, that its pleasant gatherings may not be allowed to die out! A portrait of Mr. Croker was painted a few years before his death by Mr. Stephen Pearce (the artist of the 'Arctic Council'). It is a characteristic and an admirable likeness. The next best is that in Maclise's well-known picture of 'All Hallow Eve' (exhibited in the Royal Academy in 1833), on which Lover, in describing the engraving, has remarked: "And who is that standing behind them?-he seems 'far more genteel' than the rest of the company. Why, 'tis Crofton Croker, or, as he is familiarly called amongst his friends, 'The honourable member for fairy-land.' There you are, Crofty, my boy! with your note-book in your hand; and maybe you won't pick up a trifle in such good company." It may be added, that Mr. Croker was for many years one of the registrars of the Royal Literary Fund. And now, in drawing this slight sketch of Mr.

Croker's life to a close, the writer hopes that it may not be an uninteresting addition to the present volume.

T. F. D. C.

CHAPTER I.

KNIGHTSBRIDGE TO THE BELL AND HORNS, BROMPTON.

[Picture: Anyone] Obliged by circ.u.mstances to lead the life of a pendulum, vibrating between a certain spot distant four miles from London, and a certain spot just out of the smoke of the metropolis,-going into town daily in the morning and returning in the evening,-may be supposed, after the novelty has worn off, from the different ways by which he can shape his course, to find little interest in his monotonous movement. Indeed, I have heard many who live a short distance from town complain of this swinging backwards and forwards, or, rather, going forwards and backwards over the same ground every day, as dull and wearisome; but I cannot sympathise with them. On the contrary, I find that the more constantly any particular line of road is adhered to, the more intimate an acquaintance with it is formed, and the more interesting it becomes.

In some measure, this may be accounted for by studious habits; a tolerable memory, apt to indulge in recollections of the past, and to cherish rather than despise, when not impertinent, local gossip, which re-peoples the district with its former inhabitants,-

"Sweet Memory! wafted by thy gentle gale Oft up the tide of time I turn my sail, To view the fairy haunts of long-lost hours Blest with far greener shades-far fresher flowers."

"We have all by heart," observes the author of the _Curiosities of Literature_, "the true and delightful reflection of Johnson on local a.s.sociations, where the scene we tread suggests to us the men or the deeds which have left their celebrity to the spot. 'We are in the presence of their fame, and feel its influence.'" How often have I fancied, if the walls by which thousands now daily pa.s.s without a glance of recognition or regard, if those walls could speak, and name some of their former inmates, how great would be the regret of many at having overlooked houses which they would perhaps have made a pilgrimage of miles to behold, as a.s.sociated with the memory of persons whose names history, literature, or art has embalmed for posterity, or as the scene of circ.u.mstances treasured up in recollection!

If the feelings could be recalled, and faithfully recorded, which the dull brick walls that I cannot help regarding with interest must have witnessed, what a romantic chapter in the history of the human mind would be preserved for study and reflection!-