5. Weald clay.

6. Hastings sand.

7. Purbeck beds.

8. Oolite.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 253. Section from the London to the Hampshire basin across the valley of the Weald.

1. Tertiary strata.

2. Chalk and firestone.

3. Gault.

4. Lower greensand.

5. Weald clay.

6. Hastings sands.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 254. Highest point of South Downs, 858 feet.

Anticlinal axis of the Weald. Crowborough Hill, 804 feet.

Highest point of North Downs, 880 feet.[243-A]

Section of the country from the confines of the basin of London to that of Hants, with the princ.i.p.al heights above the level of the sea on a true scale.[243-B]]

The s.p.a.ce here inclosed within the escarpment of the chalk affords an example of what has been sometimes called a "valley of elevation" (more properly "of denudation"); where the strata, partially removed by aqueous excavation, dip away on all sides from a central axis. Thus, it is supposed that the area now occupied by the Hastings sand (No. 6.) was once covered by the Weald clay (No. 5.), and this again by the Greensand (No. 4.), and this by the Gault (No. 3.); and, lastly, that the Chalk (No. 2.) extended originally over the whole s.p.a.ce between the North and the South Downs. This theory will be better understood by consulting the annexed diagram (fig. 253.), where the dark lines represent what now remains, and the fainter ones those portions of rock which are believed to have been carried away.

At each end of the diagram the tertiary strata (No. 1.) are exhibited reposing on the chalk. In the middle are seen the Hastings sands (No. 6.) forming an anticlinal axis, on each side of which the other formations are arranged with an opposite dip. It has been necessary, however, in order to give a clear view of the different formations, to exaggerate the proportional height of each in comparison to its horizontal extent; and a true scale is therefore subjoined in another diagram (fig. 254.), in order to correct the erroneous impression which might otherwise be made on the reader's mind. In this section the distance between the North and South Downs is represented to exceed forty miles; for the Valley of the Weald is here intersected in its longest diameter, in the direction of a line between Lewes and Maidstone.

Through the central portion, then, of the district supposed to be denuded runs a great anticlinal line, having a direction nearly east and west, on both sides of which the beds 5, 4, 3, and 2, crop out in succession. But, although, for the sake of rendering the physical structure of this region more intelligible, the central line of elevation has alone been introduced, as in the diagrams of Smith, Mantell, Conybeare, and others, geologists have always been well aware that numerous minor lines of dislocation and flexure run parallel to the great central axis.

In the central area of the Hastings sand the strata have undergone the greatest displacement; one fault being known, where the vertical shift of a bed of calcareous grit is no less than 60 fathoms.[244-A] Much of the picturesque scenery of this district arises from the depth of the narrow valleys and ridges to which the sharp bends and fractures of the strata have given rise; but it is also in part to be attributed to the excavating power exerted by water, especially on the interstratified argillaceous beds.

Besides the series of longitudinal valleys and ridges in the Weald, there are valleys which run in a transverse direction, pa.s.sing through the chalk to the basin of the Thames on the one side, and to the English Channel on the other. In this manner the chain of the North Downs is broken by the rivers Wey, Mole, Darent, Medway, and Stour; the South Downs by the Arun, Adur, Ouse, and Cuckmere.[244-B] If these transverse hollows could be filled up, all the rivers, observes Mr. Conybeare, would be forced to take an easterly course, and to empty themselves into the sea by Romney Marsh and Pevensey Levels.[245-A]

Mr. Martin has suggested that the great cross fractures of the chalk, which have become river channels, have a remarkable correspondence on each side of the valley of the Weald; in several instances the gorges in the North and South Downs appearing to be directly opposed to each other. Thus, for example, the defiles of the Wey in the North Downs, and of the Arun in the South, seemed to coincide in direction; and, in like manner, the Ouse corresponds to the Darent, and the Cuckmere to the Medway.[245-B]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 255. View of the chalk escarpment of the South Downs.

Taken from the Devil's Dike, looking towards the west and south-west.

_a._ The town of Steyning is hidden by this point.

_b._ Edburton church.

_c._ Road.

_d._ River Adur.]

Although these coincidences may, perhaps, be accidental, it is by no means improbable, as hinted by the author above mentioned, that great amount of elevation towards the centre of the Weald district gave rise to transverse fissures. And as the longitudinal valleys were connected with that linear movement which caused the anticlinal lines running east and west, so the cross fissures might have been occasioned by the intensity of the upheaving force towards the centre of the line.

But before treating of the manner in which the upheaving movement may have acted, I shall endeavour to make the reader more intimately acquainted with the leading geographical features of the district, so far as they are of geological interest.

In whatever direction we travel from the tertiary strata of the basins of London and Hampshire towards the valley of the Weald, we first ascend a slope of white chalk, with flints, and then find ourselves on the summit of a declivity consisting, for the most part, of different members of the chalk formation; below which the upper greensand, and sometimes, also, the gault, crop out. This steep declivity is the great escarpment of the chalk before mentioned, which overhangs a valley excavated chiefly out of the argillaceous or marly bed, termed Gault (No. 3.). The escarpment is continuous along the southern termination of the North Downs, and may be traced from the sea, at Folkestone, westward to Guildford and the neighbourhood of Petersfield, and from thence to the termination of the South Downs at Beachy Head. In this precipice or steep slope the strata are cut off abruptly, and it is evident that they must originally have extended farther. In the woodcut (fig. 255. p. 245.), part of the escarpment of the South Downs is faithfully represented, where the denudation at the base of the declivity has been somewhat more extensive than usual, in consequence of the upper and lower greensand being formed of very incoherent materials, the upper, indeed, being extremely thin and almost wanting.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 256. Chalk escarpment, as seen from the hill above Steyning, Suss.e.x. The castle and village of Bramber in the foreground.]

The geologist cannot fail to recognize in this view the exact likeness of a sea cliff; and if he turns and looks in an opposite direction, or eastward, towards Beachy Head (see fig. 256.), he will see the same line of heights prolonged. Even those who are not accustomed to speculate on the former changes which the surface has undergone may fancy the broad and level plain to resemble the flat sands which were laid dry by the receding tide, and the different projecting ma.s.ses of chalk to be the headlands of a coast which separated the different bays from each other.

In regard to the transverse valleys before mentioned, as intersecting the chalk hills, some idea of them may be derived from the subjoined sketch (fig. 257.), of the gorge of the river Adur, taken from the summit of the chalk downs, at a point in the bridle-way leading from the towns of Bramber and Steyning to Sh.o.r.eham. If the reader will refer again to the view given in a former woodcut (fig. 255. p. 245.), he will there see the exact point where the gorge of which I am now speaking interrupts the chalk escarpment.

A projecting hill, at the point _a_, hides the town of Steyning, near which the valley commences where the Adur pa.s.ses directly to the sea at Old Sh.o.r.eham. The river flows through a nearly level plain, as do most of the others which intersect the hills of Surrey, Kent, and Suss.e.x; and it is evident that these openings, so far at least as they are due to aqueous erosion, have not been produced by the rivers, many of which, like the Ouse near Lewes, have filled up arms of the sea, instead of deepening the hollows which they traverse.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 257. Transverse Valley of the Adur in the South Downs.

_a._ Town of Steyning.

_b._ River Adur.

_c._ Old Sh.o.r.eham.]

Now, in order to account for the manner in which the five groups of strata, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, represented in the map, fig. 252. and in the section fig. 253., may have been brought into their present position, the following hypothesis has been very generally adopted:--Suppose the five formations to lie in horizontal stratification at the bottom of the sea; then let a movement from below press them upwards into the form of a flattened dome, and let the crown of this dome be afterwards cut off, so that the incision should penetrate to the lowest of the five groups.

The different beds would then be exposed on the surface, in the manner exhibited in the map, fig. 252.[247-A]

The quant.i.ty of denudation or removal by water of stratified ma.s.ses a.s.sumed to have once reached continuously from the North to the South Downs is so enormous, that the reader may at first be startled by the boldness of the hypothesis. But the difficulty vanishes when once sufficient time is allowed for the gradual and successive rise of the strata, during which the waves and currents of the ocean might slowly accomplish an operation, which no sudden diluvial rush of waters could possibly have effected.

Among other proofs of the action of water, it may be stated that the great longitudinal valleys follow the outcrop of the softer and more incoherent beds, while ridges or lines of cliff usually occur at those points where the strata are composed of harder stone. Thus, for example, the chalk with flints, together with the subjacent upper greensand, which is often used for building, under the provincial name of "firestone," has been cut into a steep cliff on that side on which the sea encroached. This escarpment bounds a deep valley, excavated chiefly out of the soft argillaceous or marly bed, termed gault (No. 3.). In some places the upper greensand is in a loose and incoherent state, and there it has been as much denuded as the gault; as, for example, near Beachy Head; but farther to the westward it is of great thickness, and contains hard beds of blue chert and calcareous sandstone or firestone. Here, accordingly, we find that it produces a corresponding influence on the scenery of the country; for it runs out like a step beyond the foot of the chalk-hills, and const.i.tutes a lower terrace, varying in breadth from a quarter of a mile to three miles, and following the sinuosities of the chalk escarpment.[248-A]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 258. Cross section.

_a._ Chalk with flints.

_b._ Chalk without flints.

_c._ Upper greensand, or firestone.

_d._ Gault.]

It is impossible to desire a more satisfactory proof that the escarpment is due to the excavating power of water during the rise of the strata; for I have shown, in my account of the coast of Sicily, in what manner the encroachments of the sea tend to efface that succession of terraces which must otherwise result from the intermittent upheaval of a coast preyed upon by the waves.[248-B] During the interval between two elevatory movements, the lower terrace will usually be destroyed, wherever it is composed of incoherent materials; whereas the sea will not have time entirely to sweep away another part of the same terrace, or lower platform, which happens to be composed of rocks of a harder texture, and capable of offering a firmer resistance to the erosive action of water. As the yielding clay termed gault would be readily washed away, we find its outcrop marked everywhere by a valley which skirts the base of the chalk hills, and which is usually bounded on the opposite side by the lower greensand; but as the upper beds of this last formation are most commonly loose and incoherent, they also have usually disappeared and increased the breadth of the valley. But in those districts where chert, limestone, and other solid materials enter largely into the composition of this formation (No. 4.), they give rise to a range of hills parallel to the chalk, which sometimes rival the escarpment of the chalk itself in height, or even surpa.s.s it, as in Leith Hill, near Dorking. This ridge often presents a steep escarpment towards the soft argillaceous deposit called the Weald clay (No. 5.; see the strong lines in fig. 253. p. 243.), which usually forms a broad valley, separating the lower greensand from the Hastings sands or Forest ridge; but where subordinate beds of sandstone of a firmer texture occur, the uniformity of the plain of No. 5. is broken by waving irregularities and hillocks.

It will be easy to show how closely the superficial inequalities agree with those which we might naturally expect to originate during the gradual rise of the Wealden district. Suppose the line of the most energetic movement to have coincided with what is now the central ridge of the Weald valley; in that case the first land which emerged must have been situated where the Forest ridge is now placed. Here many shoals and reefs may first have existed, and islands of chalk devoured in the course of ages by the ocean (see fig. 253.); so that the top of the shattered dome which first appeared above water may have been utterly destroyed, and the ma.s.ses represented by the fainter lines (fig. 253.) removed.

[2 Ill.u.s.trations: Fig. 259., Fig. 260.

The dotted lines represent the sea-level.]

The upper greensand is represented (fig. 259.) as forming on the left hand a single precipice with the chalk; while on the right there are two cliffs, with an intervening terrace, as before described in fig. 258.

Two strips of land would then remain on each side of a channel, presenting ranges of white cliffs facing each other. A powerful current might then scoop out a channel in the gault (No. 2.). This softer bed would yield with ease in proportion as parts of it were brought up from time to time and exposed to the fury of the waves, so that large s.p.a.ces occupied by the harder formation or greensand (No. 3.) would be laid bare. This last rock, opposing a more effectual resistance, would next emerge; while the chalk cliffs, at the base of which the gault is rapidly undermined, would recede farther from each other, after which four parallel strips of land, or rows of islands, would be caused, which are represented by the ma.s.ses which in fig. 260. rise above the dotted line indicating the sea-level. In this diagram, however, the inclination of the upper surface of the formations (Nos. 1. and 3.), is exaggerated.

Originally this surface must have been level, like the submarine terraces produced by denudation, and described before (p. 74. and 77.); but they were afterwards more and more tilted by that general movement to which the region of the Weald owes its structure. At length, by the farther elevation of the dome-shaped ma.s.s, the clay (No. 4.) would be brought within reach of the waves, which would probably gain the more easy access to the subjacent deposit by the rents which would be caused in No. 3., and in the central part of the ridge where the uplifting force had been exerted with the greatest energy. The opposite cliffs, in which the greensand (No. 3.) terminates, would now begin to recede from each other, having at their base a yielding stratum of clay (No. 4.).

Lastly, the sea would penetrate to the sand (No. 5.), and then the state of things indicated in the dark lines of the upper section (fig. 253.), would be consummated.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 261. The Coomb, near Lewes.]

It was stated that there are many lines of flexure and dislocation, running east and west, or parallel to the central axis of the Wealden. They are numerous in the district of the Hastings sand, and sometimes occur in the chalk itself. One of the latter kind has given rise to the ravine called the Coomb, near Lewes, and was first traced out by Dr. Mantell, in whose company I examined it. This coomb is seen on the eastern side of the valley of the Ouse, in the suburbs of the town of Lewes. The steep declivities on each side are covered with green turf, as is the bottom, which is perfectly dry. No outward signs of disturbance are visible; and the connection of the hollow with subterranean movements would not have been suspected by the geologist, had not the evidence of great convulsions been clearly exposed in the escarpment of the valley of the Ouse, and the numerous chalk pits worked at the termination of the Coomb. By the aid of these we discover that the ravine coincides precisely with a line of fault, on one side of which the chalk with flints (_a_, fig. 262.), appears at the summit of the hill, while it is thrown down to the bottom on the other.

Mr. Martin, in his work on the geology of Western Suss.e.x, published in 1828, threw much light on the structure of the Wealden by tracing out continuously for miles the direction of many anticlinal lines and cross fractures; and the same course of investigation has since been followed out in greater detail by Mr. Hopkins. The mathematician last-mentioned has shown that the observed direction of the lines of flexure and dislocation in the Weald district coincide with those which might have been antic.i.p.ated theoretically on mechanical principles, if we a.s.sume certain simple conditions under which the strata were lifted up by an expansive subterranean force. He finds by calculation that if this force was applied so as to act uniformly upwards within an elliptic area, the longitudinal fissures thereby produced would nearly coincide with the outlines of the ellipse, forming cracks, which are portions of smaller concentric ellipses, parallel to the margin of the larger one. These longitudinal fissures would also be intercepted by others running at right angles to them, and both lines of fracture may have been produced at the same time.[251-A] In this ill.u.s.tration it is supposed that the expansive force acted simultaneously and with equal intensity at every point within the upheaved area, and not with greater energy along the central axis or region of princ.i.p.al elevation.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 262. Fault in the cliff hills near Lewes. Mantell.

_a._ Chalk with flints.

_b._ Lower chalk.[251-B]]

The geologist cannot fail to derive great advantage in his speculations from the mathematical investigation of a problem of this kind, where results free from all uncertainty are obtained on the a.s.sumption of certain simple conditions. Such results, when once ascertained by mathematical methods, may serve as standard cases, to which others occurring in nature of a more complicated kind may be referred. In order that a uniform force should cause the strata to attain in the centre of the ellipse a height so far exceeding that which they have reached round the margin, it is necessary to a.s.sume that the ma.s.s of upheaved strata offered originally a very unequal degree of resistance to the subterranean force. This may have happened either from their being more fractured in one place than in another, or from being pressed down by a less weight of inc.u.mbent strata; as if we suppose, what is far from improbable, that great denudation had taken place in the middle of the Wealden before the final and princ.i.p.al upheaval occurred. It is suggested that the beds may have been acted upon somewhat in the manner of a carpet spread out loosely on a floor, and nailed down round the edges, which would swell into the shape of a dome if pressed up equally at every point by air admitted from beneath. But when we are reasoning on the particular phenomena of the Weald, we have no geological data for determining whether it be more probable that originally the resistance to be overcome was so extremely unequal in different places, or whether the subterranean force, instead of being everywhere uniform, was not applied with very different degrees of intensity beneath distinct portions of the upraised area.