7. Marine Portland stone.

The annexed tabular view will enable the reader to take in at a glance the successive changes from sea to river, and from river to sea, or from these again to a state of land, which have occurred in this part of England between the Cretaceous and Oolitic periods. That there have been at least four changes in the species of testacea during the deposition of the Wealden, seems to follow from the observations recently made by Professor E. Forbes, so that, should we hereafter find the signs of many more alternate occupations of the same area by different elements, it is no more than we might expect. Even during a small part of a zoological period, not sufficient to allow time for many species to die out, we find that the same area has been laid dry, and then submerged, and then again laid dry, as in the deltas of the Po and Ganges, the history of which has been brought to light by Artesian borings.[235-A] We also know that similar revolutions have occurred within the present century (1819) in the delta of the Indus in Cutch[235-B], where land has been laid permanently under the waters both of the river and sea, without its soil or shrubs having been swept away.

Even, independently of any vertical movements of the ground, we see in the princ.i.p.al deltas, such as that of the Mississippi, that the sea extends its salt waters annually for many months over considerable s.p.a.ces, which, at other seasons, are occupied by the river during its inundations.

It will be observed that the division of the Purbecks into upper, middle, and lower, has been made by Professor E. Forbes, strictly on the principle of the entire distinctness of the species of organic remains which they include. The lines of demarcation are not lines of disturbance, nor indicated by any striking physical characters or mineral changes. The features which attract the eye in the Purbecks, such as the dirt-beds, the dislocated strata at Lulworth, and the Cinder-bed, do not indicate any breaks in the distribution of organized beings. "The causes which led to a complete change of life three times during the deposition of the freshwater and brackish strata must," says this naturalist, "be sought for, not simply in either a rapid or a sudden change of their area into land or sea, but in the great lapse of time which intervened between the epochs of deposition at certain periods during their formation."

Each dirt-bed may, no doubt, be the memorial of many thousand years or centuries, because we find that 2 or 3 feet of vegetable soil is the only monument which many a tropical forest has left of its existence ever since the ground on which it now stands was first covered with its shade. Yet, even if we imagined the fossil soils of the Lower Purbeck to represent as many ages, we need not expect on that account to find them const.i.tuting the lines of separation between successive strata characterized by different zoological types. The preservation of a layer of vegetable soil, when in the act of being submerged, must be regarded as a rare exception to a general rule. It is of so perishable a nature, that it must usually be carried away by the denuding waves or currents of the sea or by a river; and many dirt-beds were probably formed in succession, and annihilated in the Wealden, besides those few which now remain.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 244. Cone from the Isle of Purbeck, resembling the _Dammara_ of the Moluccas. (Fitton.)]

The plants of the Wealden, so far as our knowledge extends at present, consist chiefly of Ferns, Coniferae (see fig. 244.), and Cycadeae, without any exogens; the whole more allied to the Oolitic than to the Cretaceous vegetation, although some of the species seem to be common to the chalk.

But the vertebrate and invertebrate animals indicate, in like manner, a relationship to both these periods, though a nearer affinity to the Oolitic. Mr. Brodie has found the remains of beetles and several insects of the h.o.m.opterous and trichopterous orders, some of which now live on plants, like those of the Wealden, while others hover over the surface of our present rivers. But no bones of mammalia have been met with among those of land-reptiles. Yet, as the reader will learn, in Chapter XX., that the relics of marsupial quadrupeds have been detected in still older beds, and, as it was so long before a single portion of the jaw of an iguanodon was met with in the Tilgate quarries (see p. 228.), we need by no means despair of discovering hereafter some evidence of the existence of warm-blooded quadrupeds at this era. It is, at least, too soon to infer, on mere negative evidence, that the mammalia were foreign to this fauna.

In regard to the geographical extent of the Wealden, it cannot be accurately laid down; because so much of it is concealed beneath the newer marine formations. It has been traced about 200 English miles from west to east, from Lulworth Cove to near Boulogne, in France; and about 220 miles from north-west to south-east, from Whitchurch, in Buckinghamshire, to Beauvais, in France. If the formation be continuous throughout this s.p.a.ce, which is very doubtful, it does not follow that the whole was contemporaneous; because, in all likelihood, the physical geography of the region underwent frequent change throughout the whole period, and the estuary may have altered its form, and even shifted its place. Dr. Dunker, of Ca.s.sel, and H. Von Meyer, in an excellent monograph on the Wealdens of Hanover and Westphalia, have shown that they correspond so closely, not only in their fossils, but also in their mineral characters, with the English series, that we can scarcely hesitate to refer the whole to one great delta. Even then, the magnitude of the deposit may not exceed that of many modern rivers. Thus, the delta of the Quorra or Niger, in Africa, stretches into the interior for more than 170 miles, and occupies, it is supposed, a s.p.a.ce of more than 300 miles along the coast, thus forming a surface of more than 25,000 square miles, or equal to about one half of England.[237-A] Besides, we know not, in such cases, how far the fluviatile sediment and organic remains of the river and the land may be carried out from the coast, and spread over the bed of the sea. I have shown, when treating of the Mississippi, that a more ancient delta, including species of sh.e.l.ls, such as now inhabit Louisiana, has been upraised, and made to occupy a wide geographical area, while a newer delta is forming[237-B]; and the possibility of such movements, and their effects, must not be lost sight of when we speculate on the origin of the Wealden.

If it be asked where the continent was placed from the ruins of which the Wealden strata were derived, and by the drainage of which a great river was fed, we are half tempted to speculate on the former existence of the Atlantis of Plato. The story of the submergence of an ancient continent, however fabulous in history, must have been true again and again as a geological event.

The real difficulty consists in the persistence of a large hydrographical basin, from whence a great body of fresh water was poured into the sea, precisely at a period when the neighbouring area of the Wealden was gradually going downwards 1000 feet or more perpendicularly. If the adjoining land partic.i.p.ated in the movement, how could it escape being submerged, or how could it retain its size and alt.i.tude so as to continue to be the source of such an inexhaustible supply of fresh water and sediment? In answer to this question, we are fairly ent.i.tled to suggest that the neighbouring land may have been stationary, or may even have undergone a contemporaneous slow upheaval. There may have been an ascending movement in one region, and a descending one in a contiguous parallel zone of country; just as the northern part of Scandinavia is now rising, while the middle portion (that south of Stockholm) is unmoved, and the southern extremity in Scania is sinking, or at least has sunk within the historical period.[237-C] We must, nevertheless, conclude, if we adopt the above hypothesis, that the depression of the land became general throughout a large part of Europe at the close of the Wealden period, a subsidence which brought in the cretaceous ocean.

FOOTNOTES:

[227-A] Dr. Fitton, Geol. Trans. vol. iv. p. 320. Second Series.

[230-A] Mantell, Geol. of S. E. of England, p. 244.

[231-A] "On the Dorsetshire Purbecks," by Prof. E. Forbes, Edinb. Brit.

a.s.soc., Aug. 1850.

[233-A] Mr. Webster first noticed the erect position of the trees and described the Dirt-bed.

[233-B] Fitton, Geol. Trans., Second Series, vol. iv. pp. 220, 221.

[233-C] See Flinders' Voyage.

[233-D] Fitton, ibid.

[233-E] Buckland and De la Beche, Geol. Trans., Second Series, vol. iv.

p. 16. Mr. Forbes has ascertained that the subjacent rock is a freshwater limestone, and not a portion of the Portland oolite, as was previously imagined.

[234-A] E. Forbes, ibid.

[235-A] See Principles of Geol., 8th ed. pp. 260-268.

[235-B] Ibid. p. 443.

[237-A] Fitton, Geol. of Hastings, p. 58.; who cites Lander's Travels.

[237-B] See above, p. 85.; and Second Visit to the U. S. vol. ii.

chap. x.x.xiv.

[237-C] See the Author's Anniv. Address, Geol. Soc. 1850, Quart. Geol.

Journ. vol. vi. p. 52.

CHAPTER XIX.

DENUDATION OF THE CHALK AND WEALDEN.

Physical geography of certain districts composed of Cretaceous and Wealden strata--Lines of inland chalk-cliffs on the Seine in Normandy--Outstanding pillars and needles of chalk--Denudation of the chalk and Wealden in Surrey, Kent, and Suss.e.x--Chalk once continuous from the North to the South Downs--Anticlinal axis and parallel ridges--Longitudinal and transverse valleys--Chalk escarpments--Rise and denudation of the strata gradual--Ridges formed by harder, valleys by softer beds--Why no alluvium, or wreck of the chalk, in the central district of the Weald--At what periods the Weald valley was denuded--Land has most prevailed where denudation has been greatest--Elephant bed, Brighton.

All the fossiliferous formations may be studied by the geologist in two distinct points of view: first, in reference to their position in the series, their mineral character and fossils; and, secondly, in regard to their physical geography, or the manner in which they now enter, as mineral ma.s.ses, into the external structure of the earth; forming the bed of lakes and seas, or the surface and foundation of hills and valleys, plains and table-lands. Some account has already been given on the first head of the Tertiary, the Cretaceous, and Wealden strata; and we may now proceed to consider certain features in the physical geography of these groups as they occur in parts of England and France.

The hills composed of white chalk in the S.E. of England have a smooth rounded outline, and being usually in the state of sheep pastures, are free from trees or hedgerows; so that we have an opportunity of observing how the valleys by which they are drained ramify in all directions, and become wider and deeper as they descend. Although these valleys are now for the most part dry, except during heavy rains and the melting of snow, they may have been due to aqueous denudation, as explained in the sixth chapter; having been excavated when the chalk emerged gradually from the sea. This opinion is confirmed by the occasional occurrence of long lines of inland cliffs, in which the strata are cut off abruptly in steep and often vertical precipices. The true nature of such escarpments is nowhere more obvious than in parts of Normandy, where the river Seine and its tributaries flow through deep winding valleys, hollowed out of chalk horizontally stratified. Thus, for example, if we follow the Seine for a distance of about 30 miles from Andelys to Elboeuf, we find the valley flanked on both sides by a deep slope of chalk, with numerous beds of flint, the formation being laid open for a thickness of about 250 and 300 feet. Above the chalk is an overlying ma.s.s of sand, gravel, and clay, from 30 to 100 feet thick. The two opposite slopes of the hills _a_ and _b_, where the chalk appears at the surface, are from 2 to 4 miles apart, and they are often perfectly smooth and even, like the steepest of our downs in England; but at many points they are broken by one, two, or more ranges of vertical and even overhanging cliffs of bare white chalk with flints. At some points detached needles and pinnacles stand in the line of the cliffs, or in front of them, as at _c_, fig. 245. On the right bank of the Seine, at Andelys, one range, about 2 miles long, is seen varying from 50 to 100 feet in perpendicular height, and having its continuity broken by a number of dry valleys or coombs, in one of which occurs a detached rock or needle, called the Tete d'Homme (see figs. 246, 247.). The top of this rock presents a precipitous face towards every point of the compa.s.s; its vertical height being more than 20 feet on the side of the downs, and 40 towards the Seine, the average diameter of the pillar being 36 feet. Its composition is the same as that of the larger cliffs in its neighbourhood, namely, white chalk, having occasionally a crystalline texture like marble, with layers of flint in nodules and tabular ma.s.ses. The flinty beds often project in relief 4 or 5 feet beyond the white chalk, which is generally in a state of slow decomposition, either exfoliating or being covered with white powder, like the chalk cliffs on the English coast; and, as in them, this superficial powder contains in some places common salt.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 245. Section across Valley of Seine.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 246. View of the Tete d'Homme, Andelys, seen from above.]

Other cliffs are situated on the right bank of the Seine, opposite Tournedos, between Andelys and Pont de l'Arche, where the precipices are from 50 to 80 feet high: several of their summits terminate in pinnacles; and one of them, in particular, is so completely detached as to present a perpendicular face 50 feet high towards the sloping down. On these cliffs several ledges are seen, which mark so many levels at which the waves of the sea may be supposed to have encroached for a long period. At a still greater height, immediately above the top of this range, are three much smaller cliffs, each about 4 feet high, with as many intervening terraces, which are continued so as to sweep in a semicircular form round an adjoining coomb, like those in Sicily before described (p. 76.).

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 247. Side view of the Tete d'Homme.

White chalk with flints.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 248. Chalk pinnacle at Senneville.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 249. Roches d'Orival, Elboeuf.]

If we then descend the river from Vatteville to a place called Senneville, we meet with a singular needle about 50 feet high, perfectly isolated on the escarpment of chalk on the right bank of the Seine (see fig. 248.).

Another conspicuous range of inland cliffs is situated about 12 miles below on the left bank of the Seine, beginning at Elboeuf, and comprehending the Roches d'Orival (see fig. 249.). Like those before described, it has an irregular surface, often overhanging, and with beds of flint projecting several feet. Like them, also, it exhibits a white powdery surface, and consists entirely of horizontal chalk with flints. It is 40 miles inland, its height, in some parts, exceeding 200 feet, and its base only a few feet above the level of the Seine. It is broken, in one place, by a pyramidal ma.s.s or needle, 200 feet high, called the Roche de Pignon, which stands out about 25 feet in front of the upper portion of the main cliffs, with which it is united by a narrow ridge about 40 feet lower than its summit (see fig. 250.). Like the detached rocks before mentioned at Senneville, Vatteville, and Andelys, it may be compared to those needles of chalk which occur on the coast of Normandy, as well as in the Isle of Wight and in Purbeck[241-A] (see fig. 251.).

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 250. View of the Roche de Pignon, seen from the south.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 251. Needle and Arch of Etretat, in the chalk cliffs of Normandy. Height of Arch 100 feet. (Pa.s.sy.)[241-B]]

The foregoing description and drawings will show, that the evidence of certain escarpments of the chalk having been originally sea-cliffs, is far more full and satisfactory in France than in England. If it be asked why, in the interior of our own country, we meet with no ranges of precipices equally vertical and overhanging, and no isolated pillars or needles, we may reply that the greater hardness of the chalk in Normandy may, no doubt, be the chief cause of this difference. But the frequent absence of all signs of littoral denudation in the valley of the Seine itself is a negative fact of a far more striking and perplexing character. The cliffs, after being almost continuous for miles, are then wholly wanting for much greater distances, being replaced by a green sloping down, although the beds remain of the same composition, and are equally horizontal; and although we may feel a.s.sured that the manner of the upheaval of the land, whether intermittent or not, must have been the same at those intermediate points where no cliffs exist, as at others where they are so fully developed. But, in order to explain such apparent anomalies, the reader must refer again to the theory of denudation, as expounded in the 6th chapter; where it was shown, first, that the undermining force of the waves and marine currents varies greatly at different parts of every coast; secondly, that precipitous rocks have often decomposed and crumbled down; and thirdly, that many terraces and small cliffs may now lie concealed beneath a talus of detrital matter.

_Denudation of the Weald Valley._--No district is better fitted to ill.u.s.trate the manner in which a great series of strata may have been upheaved and gradually denuded than the country intervening between the North and South Downs. This region, of which a ground plan is given in the accompanying map (fig. 252.), comprises within it the whole of Suss.e.x, and parts of the counties of Kent, Surrey, and Hampshire. The s.p.a.ce in which the formations older than the White Chalk, or those from the Gault to the Hastings sand inclusive, crop out, is bounded everywhere by a great escarpment of chalk, which is continued on the opposite side of the channel in the Bas Boulonnais in France, where it forms the semicircular boundary of a tract in which older strata also appear at the surface. The whole of this district may therefore be considered geologically as one and the same.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 252. Geological Map of the south-east of England and part of France, exhibiting the denudation of the Weald.

1. Tertiary.

2. Chalk and upper greensand.

3. Gault.

4. Lower Greensand.