Walks In Rome - Walks in Rome Part 102
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Walks in Rome Part 102

In this catacomb is an early _Portrait of Christ_, much resembling that at SS. Nereo ed Achilleo.

"The figure is, however, draped, and the whole work has certain peculiarities which appear to mark a later period of art. Both these portraits agree, if not strictly, yet in general features, with the description in Lentulus's letter (to the Roman senate), and portraits and descriptions together serve to prove that the earliest Christian delineators of the person of the Saviour followed no arbitrary conception of their own, but were guided rather by a particular traditional type, differing materially from the Grecian ideal, and which they transmitted in a great measure to future ages."--_Kugler_, i. 16.

In this vicinity are the Catacombs of SS. Abdon and Sennen, of St.

Julius, and of Sta. Generosa.

Opposite the Porta S. Pancrazio is the entrance of the beautiful _Villa Pamfili Doria_ (open to pedestrians and to _two-horse_ carriages after 12 o'clock on Mondays and Fridays), called by the Italians "Belrespiro."

The _Casino_ contains a few (not first-rate) ancient statues, and some views of Venice in the seventeenth century by _Heintius_. The garden, for which especial permission must be obtained, is full of beautiful azaleas and camellias.

From the ilex-fringed terrace in front of the casino is one of the best views of St. Peter's, which is here seen without the town,--backed by the Campagna, the Sabine Mountains, and the blue peak of Soracte. The road to the left leads through pine-shaded lawns and woods, and by some modern ruins, to the lake, above which is a graceful fountain. A small temple raised in 1851 commemorates the French who fell here during the siege of Rome in 1849. The word "Mary" in large letters of clipped box on the other side of the grounds is a memorial of the late beloved Princess Doria (Lady Mary Talbot). Not far from this is a columbarium.

The site of the Villa Doria was once occupied by the gardens of Galba, and here the murdered emperor is believed to have been buried.

"Un certain Argius, autrefois esclave de Galba, ramassa son corps, qui avait subi mille outrages, et alla lui creuser une humble sepulture dans les jardins de son ancien maitre; mais il fallut retrouver la tete: elle avait ete mutilee et promenee par les goujats de l'armee. Enfin Argius la trouva le lendemain, et la reunit au corps deja brule. Les jardins de Galba etaient sur le Janicule, pres de la voie Aurelienne, et on croit que le lieu qui vit le dernier denouement de cette affreuse tragedie est celui qu'occupe aujourd'hui la plus charmante promenade de Rome, la ou inclinent avec tant de grace sur les pentes semees d'anemones et ou dessinent si delicatement sur l'azur du ciel et des montagnes leurs parasols elegants les pins de la villa Pamphili."--_Ampere, Emp._ ii. 80.

The foundation of the Villa Pamfili Doria is due to the wealth extorted by Olympia Maldacchini during the reign of her brother-in-law, Innocent X.

"Innocent X. fut, pour ainsi dire, contraint de fonder la maison Pamphili. Les casuistes et les jurisconsultes leverent ses scrupules, car il en avait. Ils lui prouverent que le pape etait en droit d'economiser sur les revenus du saint-siege pour assurer l'avenir de sa famille. Ils fixerent, avec une moderation qui nous fait dresser les cheveux sur la tete, le chiffre des liberalites permises a chaque pape. Suivant eux, le souverain pontife pouvait, sans abuser, etablir un majorat de quatre mille francs de rente nette, fonder une seconde geniture en faveur de quelque parent moins avantage, et donner neuf cent mille francs de dot a chacune de ses nieces. Le general des jesuites, R. P. Vitelleschi, approuva cette decision. La-dessus, Innocent X. se mit a fonder la maison Pamphili, a construire le palais Pamphili, a creer la villa Pamphili, et a pamphiliser, tant qu'il put, les finances de l'eglise et de l'etat."--_About, Rome Contemporaine._

There are two ways of returning to Rome from the Villa Doria--one, which descends straight into the valley to the Porta Cavalleggieri, passing on the left the Church of Sta. Maria delle Fornaci; the other, skirting the walls of the city beneath the Villa Lante, which passes a _Chapel_, where St. Andrew's head, lost one day by the canons of St. Peter's, was miraculously re-discovered!

"On ne voit pas que de nouveaux monuments religieux se rapportent aux deux apparitions de Pyrrhus en Italie; seulement les augures firent retablir le temple du dieu des foudres nocturnes, le dieu etrusco-sabin Summanus, en expiation sans doute de ce que la tete de la statue de Summanus, placee sur le temple de Jupiter Capitolin, avait ete detachee par la foudre, et, apres qu'on l'eut cherchee en vain, retrouvee dans le Tibre.

"Je ne compare pas, mais j'ai vu le long des murs de Rome, entre la porte Cavalleggieri et la porte Saint Pancrace, une petite chapelle elevee au lieu ou l'on a retrouve la tete de Saint Andre apportee solennellement de Constantinople a Rome au quinzieme siecle, et qui s'etait perdue."--_Ampere, Hist. Rom._ iii. 55.

"Therefore farewell, ye hills, and ye, ye envineyarded ruins!

Therefore farewell, ye walls, palaces, pillars, and domes!

Therefore farewell, far seen, ye peaks of the mythic Albano, Seen from Montorio's height, Tibur and aesula's hills!

Ah, could we once ere we go, could we stand, while, to ocean descending, Sinks o'er the yellow dark plain slowly the yellow broad sun, Stand from the forest emerging at sunset, at once in the champaign, Open, but studded with trees, chestnuts umbrageous and old, E'en in those fair open fields that incurve to thy beautiful hollow, Nemi imbedded in wood, Nemi inurn'd in the hill!-- Therefore farewell, ye plains, and ye hills, and the City Eternal!

Therefore farewell! we depart, but to behold you again!"

_A. H. Clough, Amours de Voyage._

THE END.