The cartwheels trundled merrily along, so that twelve miles were accomplished soon after midday, and we encamped near the extreme southern point of the Grampians, which I named Mount Sturgeon. The weather was very wet but this troubled us the less as we had not known a day without rain for several months.

ASCEND MOUNT ABRUPT.

September 14.

I was most anxious to ascend Mount Abrupt, the first peak to the northward of Mount Sturgeon, that I might close my survey of these mountains and also reconnoitre the country before us. This morning clouds hung upon the mountains however, and I could scarcely indulge a hope that the weather would be favourable for the purposed survey; nevertheless I bent my steps towards the mountain, having first set the carpenter to work to make an additional width of felloe to the narrow wheels of one of the carts, that it might pa.s.s with less difficulty over soft ground. We soon came to a deep stream flowing not FROM but apparently TOWARDS the mountains; its general course being westward. It was so deep that our horses could scarcely ford it without swimming. Reeds grew about and the bottom was soft, although two kinds of rock appeared in its banks. On the right was trap, on the left the ferruginous sandstone of which all these mountains consist. We soon entered on the barren and sandy but firm ground at their base which, with its peculiar trees and shrubs, appeared so different from the gra.s.sy plains. The banksia, the casuarina, and the hardy xanthorrhoea reminded us of former toils on the opposite side of these ranges.

VIEW OF THE GRAMPIANS FROM THE SUMMIT.

The weather turned out better than I had expected, and from the summit of Mount Abrupt I beheld a truly sublime scene; the whole of the mountains, quite clear of clouds, the grand outline of the more distant ma.s.ses blended with the sky, and forming a blue and purple background for the numerous peaks of the range on which I stood, which consisted of sharp cones and perpendicular cliffs foreshortened so as to form one grand feature only of the extensive landscape, though composing a crescent nearly 30 miles in extent: this range being but a branch from the still more lofty ma.s.ses of Mount William which crowned the whole. Towards the coast there was less haze than usual, for I could distinguish Lady Julia Percy's Isle which I had looked for in vain from Mount Napier, a point twenty-four miles nearer to it. Here I could also trace the course of the stream we had crossed that morning from its sources under the eastern base of the mountains to a group of lower hills twenty-seven miles distant to the westward; which hills, named by me Dundas group, formed a most useful point in my trigonometrical survey.

LAKES.

Several extensive lakes appeared in the lowest parts adjacent; but what interested me most after I had intersected the various summits was the appearance of the country to the eastward, through which we were to find our way home. There I saw a vast extent of open downs and could trace their undulations to where they joined a range of mountains which, judging by their outlines, appeared to be of easy access. Our straightest way homewards pa.s.sed just under a bluff head about fifty miles distant, and so far I could easily perceive a most favourable line of route by avoiding several large reedy lakes. Between that open country and these lakes on one side and the coast on the other, a low woody ridge extended eastward; and by first gaining that I hoped we should reach the open ground in a direction which should enable us to leave all the lakes on our left.

The largest pieces of water I could see were Lake Linlithgow and its companion in the open gra.s.sy plains between the range and Mount Napier, as previously discovered from that hill. Several small and very picturesque lakes, then as smooth as mirrors, adorned the valley immediately to the westward of the hill I was upon. They were fringed with luxuriant shrubs so that it was really painful to me to hurry, as I was then compelled to do, past spots like these, involving in their unexplored recesses so much of novelty amidst the most romantic scenery.

The rock consisted of a finely-grained sandstone as in other parts of that ma.s.s. The Grampians of the south consist of three ranges covering a surface which extends lat.i.tudinally 54 miles and longitudinally 20 miles.

The extreme eastern and highest summit is Mount William, in height 4,500 feet above the sea. The northern point is Mount Zero, in lat.i.tude 36 degrees 52 minutes 35 seconds South, and the southern is Mount Sturgeon, in lat.i.tude 37 degrees 38 minutes 00 seconds. I here again recognised the outline of the most northern and elevated range extending from Mount William to Mount Zero, but it was not so steep on the southern as on the northern side.

VICTORIA RANGE AND THE SERRA.

From this hill two other ranges branch off to the south; the western being marked Victoria range on the map, the eastern, the Serra, from its serrated appearance, the broken outlines they present being highly ornamental to the fine country around. On the northern slopes of the range are some forests of fine timber but in general the higher summits are bare and rocky. The chief source of the Glenelg is between the Victoria range and the most northern, whence it soon sinks into a deep glen or ravine, receiving numberless tributaries from other dells intersecting the adjacent country. A considerable branch of the Glenelg named by the natives the Wannon has its sources in the eastern and southern rivulets from these mountains. The waters falling northward enter the Wimmera, a different river whose estuary has not yet been explored. Returning towards the camp, on approaching the stream, we met with one of the most strikingly beautiful species of the common genus Pultenaea; its narrow heath-like leaves were so closely covered with soft silky hairs as to have quite a silvery appearance and the branches were loaded with the heads of yellow and brown flowers now fully open. It formed a new species of the Proliferous section, allied to Pultenaea stipularis.*

(*Footnote. P. mollis, Lindley ma.n.u.scripts; ramulis villosis, foliis linearibus v. lineari-lanceolatis obtusis v. ac.u.minatis subtus convexis supra sulcatis sericeo-pilosis capitulis sessilibus longioribus, stipulis ovato-linearibus acutis glabris badiis, calycibus villosis.)

PARTY IMPEDED BY THE MUD AGAIN, AND A BROKEN AXLE.

September 15.

Pursuing an easterly course in order to avoid the Wannon we again found the ground so soft and boggy that it was impossible to proceed; and after advancing with incredible labour (under which one of the poor bullocks fell to rise no more) barely four miles, I ordered the tents to be again set up, but almost in despair for having performed during the previous days several good journeys with perfect freedom from this species of impediment, and having seen no indication of any change in the surface, I had a.s.sured the men on descending from the mountains that the country before us was favourable. We were nevertheless compelled to halt again at this part by the breaking of the iron axle of one of the carts, for it was necessary to endeavour to repair it before we could proceed. The highest part of the woody ridge between us and the plains bore according to my map due east, being distant 14 miles.

MR. STAPYLTON EXAMINES THE COUNTRY BEFORE US.

I gave that bearing to Mr. Stapylton who rode forward with Burnett to ascertain how far we were from firmer ground, while I continued in my tent occupied with the map of the mountains. It was dark before Mr.

Stapylton returned and brought the pleasing tidings that the soft ground extended only to three or four miles from the camp, and that from beyond that distance to the forest hills he had found the ground tolerably firm.

September 16.

The country which proved so soft was nevertheless stony and trap-rock projected from every higher portion; yet such rocky eminences being unconnected each was surrounded by softer ground. I was resolved to make the very most of them: but an iron axle having been broken in our struggles with the mud, the smith required more time to repair it, and I therefore determined to proceed with but half the equipment drawn by ALL the bullocks, leaving Burnett and the remaining portion of the party and equipment to come on next day by the same means, as soon as the cattle could be sent back.

AT LENGTH GET THROUGH THE SOFT REGION.

Having previously examined the ground and carefully traced out the hardest parts connecting these rocky features, I led the way with the carts and got through the first part of the journey much better than any of us had expected. After pa.s.sing over four miles of soft boggy ground we came to a small running stream, the surface beyond it rising to a somewhat steep ascent. On reaching that side I found myself on a good firm ridge along which I continued for some time until we reached a swampy lagoon, the banks of which were very firm and good. Leaving this on our right we at length saw the darkly wooded hills of the ridge before mentioned; and having travelled eleven miles we encamped near a small lagoon on a spot where there was excellent gra.s.s; but it was still necessary to send back the poor cattle with their drivers that evening to where the other party still remained encamped.

CATTLE QUITE EXHAUSTED.

September 17.

This day the rest of the party came up but the cattle seemed quite exhausted. They had at length become so weak from the continued heavy dragging through mud that it was obvious they could not proceed much further until after they had enjoyed at least some weeks of repose. But our provisions did not admit of this delay as the time had arrived when I ought to have been at Sydney although still so far from it.

DETERMINE TO LEAVE THEM IN A DEPOT TO REFRESH WHILE I PROCEED FORWARD.

After mature deliberation we hit upon a plan which might as I thought enable us to escape. The arrangement proposed was that I should go forward with some of the freshest of the cattle drawing the light carts and boat, with a month's provisions, and taking with me as many men as would enable me to leave with those who should remain provisions for two months. That the cattle should rest at the present camp two weeks and then proceed while I, by travelling so far before them with so light a party, could send back a supply of provisions and also the boat, to meet this second party following in my track on the banks of the Murray. Thus I could reach Sydney some weeks sooner, and also carry on my survey much more conveniently; the cattle, which had been sinking almost daily, would be thus refreshed sufficiently to be able to travel and the chance of the whole party suffering from famine would be much diminished. Such was the outline of the plan which our position and necessities suggested.

September 18.

This day was pa.s.sed in making preparations for setting out tomorrow with the light party as proposed.

SPECIMENS OF NATURAL HISTORY.

The catalogue of the objects of Natural History collected during the journey included several birds and animals not hitherto mentioned in this Journal. Amongst the most remarkable of these was the pig-footed animal found on June 16. It measured about ten inches in length, had no tail, and the forefeet resembled those of a pig. There was also the rat which climbs trees like the opossum; the flat-tailed rat from the scrubs of the Darling, where it builds an enormous nest of branches and boughs, so interlaced as to be proof against any attacks of the native dog. The unique specimen from the reedy country on the Murray of a very singular animal much resembling the jerboa or desert rat of Persia; also a rat-eared bat from the Lachlan. We had several new birds, but the most admired of our ornithological discoveries was a white-winged superb warbler from the junction of the Darling and the Murray, all the plumage not white being of a bright blue colour; but of this we had obtained only one specimen. I had not many opportunities of figuring the birds from life, so very desirable in ornithological subjects. The eye of the eagle and the rich crest of the c.o.c.katoo of the desert could not be preserved in dead specimens, and were too fine to be omitted among the sketches I endeavoured to s.n.a.t.c.h from nature.* Our herbarium had suffered from the continued wet weather, especially in fording deep rivers; and this was the more to be regretted as it contained many remarkable specimens. The seeds and bulbous roots comprising varieties of Calostemma, Caladenia, and Anguillaria, besides a number of large liliaceous bulbs, were however preserved in a very good state.**

(*Footnote. See Plates 23 and 36.)

(**Footnote. The specimens of natural history were deposited in the Museum at Sydney, according to my letter of instructions. The seeds, amounting to 134 varieties, have been brought home and distributed, with the obliging a.s.sistance of my friend Dr. Lindley, amongst the princ.i.p.al gardens in this country. The bulbs, 62 in number, were planted soon after my arrival in England, in the gardens of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick. It was not without regret that I left at Sydney the single specimens of the Chaeropus and Dipus, but I took drawings representing each, of the natural size, and from these the figures in Plates 37 and 38 have been very accurately reduced by Mr. Picken.)

SITUATION OF DEPOT CAMP AT LAKE REPOSE.

The camp in which Mr. Stapylton's party was to remain two weeks was in as favourable a place for refreshing the cattle as could be found. The ground undulated and was thickly clothed with fresh verdure; a gra.s.sy swamp also, such as cattle delight in, extended northward into a lake of fresh water which I named Lake Repose. The peaks of the Serra Range and especially Mount Abrupt were landmarks which secured the men from even the possibility of losing their way in looking after the cattle.

Of the natives in our party it was arranged among themselves that Tommy Came-first and The Widow, who most required a rest, having sore feet, should remain with Mr. Stapylton and that Piper and Tommy Came-last should accompany me.

CHAPTER 3.12.

Parting of The Widow and her child.

We at length emerge on much firmer ground.

River Hopkins.

Mount Nicholson.

c.o.c.kajemmy salt lakes.

Natives ill disposed.

Singular weapon.

Treacherous concealment of a native.

Contents of a native's basket and store.

A tribe comes forward.

Fine country for colonisation.

Hollows in the downs.

Snakes numerous.

Native females.

Cattle tracks.

Ascend Mount Cole.

Enter on a granite country.

Many rivulets.

Mammeloid hills.

Lava, the surface rock.

Snakes eaten by the natives.

Ascend Mount Byng.

Rich gra.s.s.

Expedition pa.s.s.