At twelve o'clock I embarked on the river with sixteen men in two boats, leaving eight with Mr. Stapylton in the depot.

CHARACTER OF THE RIVER.

We met with many dead trees for the first mile or two, but none of these either prevented or delayed our pa.s.sage; and the river then widened into fine reaches wholly clear of timber, so that the pa.s.sage further down was quite uninterrupted. The scenery on the banks was pleasing and various: at some points picturesque limestone cliffs overhung the river, and cascades flowed out of caverns hung with stalact.i.tes; at others the sh.o.r.es were festooned with green dripping shrubs and creepers, or terminated in a smooth gra.s.sy bank sloping to the water's edge. But none of the banks consisted of water-worn earth; they were in general low and gra.s.sy, bounding the alluvial flats that lay between the higher points of land. Within the first three or four miles from Fort O'Hare two tributaries joined the main stream from the right or westward, and one from the left or eastward: one of the former ending in a noisy cascade at the junction. The river soon opened to a uniform width of sixty yards, its waters being everywhere smooth and unruffled and the current scarcely perceptible.

Ornithorynchus paradoxus.

Ducks were always to be seen in the reaches before us, and very frequently the Ornithorynchus paradoxus, an animal which had not, I believe, been hitherto seen so near the sea. After rowing about sixteen miles we landed on the left bank near a cascade falling from under a limestone cliff and there we encamped for the night. The sun was setting in a cloudless sky while I eagerly ascended the highest cliffs in hopes of obtaining a sight of the coast, but nothing was visible beyond a gently undulating woody country, some swamps alone appearing in it to the westward. The land about the cliffs of limestone was tolerably good and gra.s.sy, but towards the end of this day's pull forests of the stringybark sort of eucalyptus, having in them trees of large dimensions, closed on the river. We endeavoured but in vain to catch fish, and whether the waters contained the cod-perch (Gristes peelii) or not remained a question. Our position and our prospects were now extremely interesting and throughout the night I was impatient for the light of the next day.

COURSE OF THE RIVER.

August 19.

I arose at three in order to determine the lat.i.tude more exactly by the alt.i.tude of various stars then approaching the meridian. These were Aries and Menkar; while the two feet of the Centaur, both fine circ.u.mpolar stars, were so steadily reflected in the placid stream that I obtained by that means the alt.i.tude of both BELOW THE POLE. It was most essential to the accuracy of my survey of the river that I should determine the lat.i.tude as frequently and exactly as possible. The sun afterwards rose in a cloudless sky and I ascertained the breadth of the river by means of a micrometer telescope to be exactly 70 yards. We continued our interesting voyage and found the river of very uniform width and that its depth increased.

The current was slower but still perceptible although we found the water had ebbed six inches during the night an indication that it was already influenced by the tide although it tasted perfectly fresh. At a place where I observed the sun's meridian alt.i.tude I found the breadth on measurement to be 71 yards and the depth on sounding, 4 1/2, 3 1/2 and 3 fathoms. The direction of the course had there however changed. To the camp of last night it had been remarkably straight towards south-south-east although full of turnings being what may be termed straight serpentine,* and I had accordingly expected to find the estuary at Portland Bay in which case it was likely to be sheltered sufficiently by Cape Nelson to form a harbour. Now however the general course was nearly west and it preserved the same general direction without much winding during the progress we made throughout the day. I had therefore every reason to suppose that it would thus terminate in the wide bay between Cape Northumberland and Cape Bridgewater. The scenery on the long reaches was in many places very fine from the picturesque character of the limestone-rock and the tints and outline of the trees, shrubs, and creepers upon the banks. In some places stalact.i.tic grottoes covered with red and yellow creepers overhung or enclosed cascades; at other points casuarinae and banksia were festooned with creeping vines whose hues of warm green or brown were relieved by the grey cliffs of more remote reaches as they successively opened before us.

(*Footnote. See Colonel Jackson's paper also referred to above.)

BLACK SWANS.

Black swans being numerous, we shot several; and found some eggs which we thought a luxury among the bulrushes at the water's edge. But we had left, as it seemed, all the good gra.s.sy land behind us; for the stringybark and a species of Xanthorrhoea (gra.s.s-tree) grew to the water's edge both where the soil looked black and rich and where it possessed that red colour which distinguishes the best soil in the vicinity of limestone rock. One or two small tributaries joined the river the princ.i.p.al one coming from the left bank at that point or angle where the great change takes place in its course. When the sun was near setting we put ash.o.r.e on this bank and from a tree on the highest part of the country behind it we now once again saw Mount Gambier bearing 57 degrees West of North.

WATER BRACKISH.

Here the water was slightly brackish but still very good for use; the saltness being most perceptible when the water was used for tea. The river had increased considerably both in width and depth; for here the measured breadth was 101 yards and the mean depth five fathoms. (See section on general Map.) It was upon the whole considering the permanent fulness of its stream the character of its banks and uniformity of width and depth the finest body of fresh water I had seen in Australia; and our hopes were that day sanguine that we should find an outlet to the sea of proportionate magnitude.

August 20.

This morning I found there was a rise of six inches in the river, evidently the effect of tide as the water was brackish although still fit for use. The reach on which we embarked afforded us a view for a mile further down the river; the vista being truly picturesque and with the interest attached to the scene it looked indeed quite enchanting. We pulled on through the silent waters, awakening the slumbering echoes with many a shot at the numerous swans or ducks. At length another change took place in the general course of the river which from west turned to east-south-east. The height of the banks appeared to diminish rapidly and a very numerous flock of the small sea-swallow or tern indicated our vicinity to the sea. The slow-flying pelican also with its huge bill pursued, regardless of strangers its straight-forward course over the waters.

ISLE OF BAGS.

A small bushy island next came in sight having on it some rocks resembling what we should have thought a great treasure then, a pile of flour-bags and we named it accordingly the Isle of Bags.

ARRIVAL AT THE SEACOAST.

Soon after pa.s.sing the island a few low, sandy-looking hills appeared before us; and we found ourselves between two basins where in the water was very shallow although we had sounded just previously to entering one of them in four fathoms. The widest lay directly before us but having no outlet we steered into the other on the right and on rounding a low rocky point we saw the green rolling breakers of the sea through an opening which proved to be the mouth of the river. It consisted of two low rocky points and as soon as we had pulled outside of them we landed on the eastern one. In the two basins we had seen there was scarcely sufficient water to float the boats and thus our hopes of finding a port at the mouth of this fine river were at once at an end. The sea broke on a sandy beach outside and on ascending one of the sandhills near it I perceived Cape Northumberland; the rocks outside called the Carpenters bearing 7 degrees 20 minutes South of West (variation 3 degrees 30 minutes) and being distant, as I judged, about fifteen miles. Mount Gambier bore 23 degrees 40 minutes North of West and a height which seemed near the extreme point of the coast on the eastward and which I therefore took for Cape Bridge water bore 52 degrees East of South.

DISCOVERY BAY.

These points seemed distant from each other about forty miles; the line of coast between forming one grand curve or bay which received this river at the deepest part and which I now named Discovery Bay.

MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.

There was no reef of rocks upon the bar; a circ.u.mstance to be regretted in this case for it was obvious that the entrance to this fine river and the two basins was choked merely by the sand thrown up by the sea. The river was four fathoms deep, the water being nearly fresh enough for use within sight of the sh.o.r.e. Unfortunately perhaps for navigation there is but little tide on that coast; the greatest rise in the lower part of the river (judging by the floating weeds) did not exceed a foot. I was too intent on the completion of my survey to indulge much in contemplating the welcome sight of old ocean; but when a plank was picked up by the men on that desolate sh.o.r.e and we found the initials IWB and the year 1832 carved on wood which had probably grown in old England the sea really seemed like home to us. Although it was low water a boat might easily have been got out and it is probable that in certain states of the tide and sand small craft might get in; but I nevertheless consider the mouth of this river quite unavailable as a harbour.

WATERHOLES DUG IN THE BEACH.

Near the beach were holes dug apparently by the natives in which we found the water perfectly sweet. The hills sheltering the most eastern of the two basins were well wooded as were also those behind. The line of sandhills on the beach seemed to rise into forest hills at about five miles further eastward and all those in the west to within a short distance of the coast were equally woody. The day was squally with rain; nevertheless during an interval of sunshine I obtained the sun's meridian alt.i.tude making the lat.i.tude 38 degrees 2 minutes 58 seconds South. I also completed by two P.M. my survey of the mouth of the river and adjacent country; and we then again embarked to return a few miles up the river and encamp where wood and water were at hand. On reentering the river from the sea I presented the men with a bottle of whisky with which it was formally named the Glenelg after the present Secretary of State for the Colonies according to my previous intention.

REMARKABLE HOLLOW.

August 21.

We had encamped in a rather remarkable hollow on the right bank at the extreme western bend of the river. There was no modern indication that water either lodged in or ran through that ravine although the channel resembled in width the bed of some considerable tributary; the rock presenting a section of cliffs on each side and the bottom being broad but consisting of black earth only in which grew trees of eucalyptus. I found on following it some way up that it led to a low tract of country which I regretted much I could not then examine further. I found sh.e.l.ls embedded in limestone varying considerably in its hardness being sometimes very friable and the surface in some places presenting innumerable fragments of corallines, with pectens, spatangi, echini, ostrea and foraminifera.

LIMESTONE CAVERN.

In the opposite bank of the river I found several thin strata of compact chert containing probably fragments of corallines, not only on the surface but embedded in the limestone. In pulling up the river this morning we observed a cavern or opening in the side of the limestone rock and having ascended to it by means of a rope we entered with lights. It proved to be only a large fissure and after penetrating about 150 yards underground we met with red earth, apparently fallen from the surface. We found at the mouth of the fissure some fine specimens of sh.e.l.ls, coral, and other marine productions, embedded in several thin strata of a coa.r.s.er structure under one of very compact limestone upwards of 20 feet thick.*

(*Footnote. In the fragments brought home Mr. George Sowerby found a nucula, very much resembling some species of South America although not like any from Australia. Portions of lucinae, echinus, spatangi, and turritella or melania, were comprised in specimens from a softer stratum which was the lowest.)

ONE FISH CAUGHT IN THE GLENELG.

While the people in the boat awaited us there a fish was taken by Muirhead who had also caught the first fish in the river Darling. That of the Glenelg was a salt.w.a.ter fish known at Sydney by the name of Snapper.*

(*Footnote. This was the only fish caught in the Glenelg notwithstanding the men threw in their lines whenever we encamped on its banks. The weather was too cold for it was evident the river did contain fish from the trellised work which the natives had set across it in the upper parts.)

STORMY WEATHER.

The weather was more moderate today although still showery; and the scenery as we proceeded upwards was very picturesque and full of variety.

At sunset we encamped about a mile and a half short of our camp of the 18th and just as the trees were groaning under a heavy squall which obliged us to land on the first spot where sufficient room was left in the thick woods for our tents. This spot happened to be on a steep bit of bank; and in the evening I was called in haste to a new danger. The wind had suddenly changed and blew with great fury filling my tent with sparks from a large fire which burnt before it. I had placed in it according to usual custom our stock of ammunition in a keg; and notwithstanding these precautions its preservation now between the two elements of fire and water was rather doubtful. We contrived however to avert the danger and were no more disturbed during the night except by the storm.

RETURN TO THE DEPOT.

August 22.

The squally weather continued until noon when sunbeams again adorned the river-scenery. We met with no impediment in the current until within about six miles of the depot camp when dead trees in the channel began again to appear; but we pa.s.sed them all without hindrance and reached Fort O'Hare at two o'clock where we found all well. Mr. Stapylton had set Vulcan to repair the broken chains etc., a ford had been cleared across the stream from the north-east which I named the Crawford; and the cattle being refreshed we were once more in trim to continue the land journey.

The height of the water in the river had undergone no change during our absence and was probably about its usual level there although I observed abundant marks of flood in the branches of trees where dry floated matter remained at the height of fifteen feet above the water as it stood then.

The rock about this position consisted of limestone apparently similar to that seen on its banks higher up. (See August 15.) It possessed a stalact.i.tic aspect by the infiltration of calcareous matter and in crevices below I found a reddish stalagmite containing grains of sand.

Large petrified oyster sh.e.l.ls lay loosely about the bank above these cliffs. No natives had approached the depot during our absence and we had indeed reason to believe that the adjacent country contained but few inhabitants.

DIFFERENCE IN LONGITUDE.

During the afternoon I laid down my survey of the estuary of the Glenelg and completed by 10 P.M., not only my plan of it but that of the river also. I found a considerable difference between the result of my survey and the Admiralty charts not only in the longitude but also in the relative position of the two capes with respect to Mount Gambier a solitary hill easily recognised.*

(*Footnote. At that time I supposed the difference had arisen from some error or omission in my map and took much pains to discover it; but not having succeeded my work having also closed to a mile and three-quarters on my return to the country connected by trigonometrical survey with Sydney I have been obliged to represent these parts of the coast according to this land survey.)

CHAPTER 3.11.

Leave the Glenelg and travel eastward.

Cross the Crawford.

Boggy character of its sources.

Recross the Rifle range.

Heavy timber the chief impediment.

Travelling also difficult from the softness of the ground.

Excursion southward to Portland Bay.