Rows of white houses line these streets and present an odd appearance to the looker-on. They are usually without windows, and the narrow doorways are scarcely wide enough for a man to enter by them. They give one the impression that they belong to a prison, or possibly a house of refuge or concealment.

Occasionally a door, or even a window, is seen with some Moorish decoration. Again a band of red may be found at the foot of a wall, or a hand may be discerned painted in black upon the doorway. Such marks are superst.i.tiously regarded as charms to keep away evil influences.

The air in the streets is very offensive. Most thoroughfares are littered with heaps of decaying vegetables, old rags, bones, feathers, and other substances, with an occasional dead dog or cat lying about.

These render the air most disagreeable and unwholesome. Added to this are the mingled odors of garlic, burnt aloes, benzoin, fish, and the smoke of various substances that may be burning. Here and there groups of Arab boys may be seen playing at their various games; or they may be heard chanting, in their shrill, nasal tones, verses from the Koran, which is their only schoolbook.

The scene is a varied one. Here is a wretched beggar crouching in the dust in the hope of awakening pity in the heart of the pa.s.ser-by; there a Moor mounted upon a mule. Then presently an overloaded donkey comes in sight, a half-clothed Arab trotting by his side and showering heavy blows upon him in the vain attempt to urge him on to greater speed; now a half-starved dog or vagrant cat skulks by, as if in terror at the sight of man.

Tangier has one princ.i.p.al square. It is a small rectangular place with one long street running through it. This street ascends from the sea landing through the entire length of the town. Numerous shops are scattered about the square, which are of so simple a character that those of the humblest village in Europe would appear quite grand in comparison.

At one side of the square is a fountain, where at any hour in the day may be found knots of Arabs or groups of negroes, who have come to get water. On the other side of the street, eight or ten women, closely veiled, remain seated on the ground from early dawn till close of day, silently offering for sale the loaves of bread arranged before them.

[Ill.u.s.tration: TANGIER.]

The square is the business center of Tangier. Grouped about it are found the homes of the representatives of foreign lands. Their houses are very simple, yet, contrasted with the common dingy houses of the town, they appear quite like palaces.

The aspect of business life in this little square is like that of any village center, with its single grocery store, tobacco shop, and unpretentious cafe. The latter is merely a humble little room, upon the walls of which various printed notices of the current topics of the day are posted.

A billiard table is one of its features, and a.s.sembled round it, or lounging about the room, is usually a motley crowd. Rich Moors idle away the hours, Jewish traders discuss their business transactions, half-clothed vagabonds look on with listless expression, Arab porters await the arrival of the steamers, employees of the foreign representatives rest during the noon hour, while various strangers, some just landed, and numerous beggars, add variety to the scene, which is as interesting as it is unique.

The Moorish shops here, as well as those of Cairo in Egypt, differ much from those of the countries in Europe. Each is built like an alcove about a foot above the level of the sidewalk. In front is an opening at which the customer stands as if before a window. The merchant, with his goods spread out before him, sits cross-legged in his narrow shop, like a statue in a niche. We are led to wonder, as we watch him, if he may not be merely of wood or stone, so immovable is he; and we almost expect to find some machinery that may set him in motion.

These merchants seem to pa.s.s hours and even days wrapped in reverie, or mechanically touching a chaplet of beads, as they utter the words of the Koran.

A curious feature of Tangier and other cities of Morocco may often be witnessed by night. Upon the stillness of a slumbering city breaks a sound as of a distant bombardment. This soon brings to the doors and windows a crowd of people, who are at first startled, but who quickly become expectant of what is to follow.

The sound draws nearer and nearer; a surging crowd appears surrounding something shaped like a casket upon end. This is borne upon the back of a horse or camel. The flare of innumerable torches lights up the novel scene. As the procession advances slowly, a droning, plaintive sound of music is heard, accompanying a dismal, nasal chant. Shrill cries, the barking of dogs, and the sound of guns but add to the general confusion.

The curiosity of a stranger makes him keen to know the meaning of this strange scene. The explanation is simple. It is but the wedding procession of a young bride as she is being conducted to the house of her bridegroom; and the upright coffer, or casket, is but the conveyance in which she is being carried to her future home.

Many of the inhabitants use no wine, since they are followers of the Prophet Mohammed, and their faith forbids its use. In some homes this custom is not so rigidly enforced, and at the time of feasts wine is used quite freely.

The master of a Moorish house usually meets his guests in a square courtyard, found in the center of his mansion. Two large chambers open out from this, which have no windows, but are entered through a large, arched doorway closed by a portiere or a heavy, ma.s.sive curtain.

The outside walls are generally of dazzling white, the arches of the doorway are not bare of ornament, and the pavement is of beautiful mosaic work.

At intervals in the inner walls are small niches for the slippers which custom demands shall be used by all who enter a Moorish house. The tiles of the floor are often covered with beautiful Moorish rugs and carpets.

On each side of the doorway are large chandeliers. These are brilliant with numerous lighted candles of various colorings. On the tables are beautiful mirrors, and ma.s.ses of brilliant flowers, to add enchantment to the scene.

A stranger, upon entering one of these houses for the first time, might fancy himself looking at the interior decoration of a theatre, the ornamentation of a church, the gilded tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of a ballroom, or the luxuriance of a regal palace.

The grace and elegance of the appointments, the brilliant lights and coloring, add novelty and enchantment to a scene that might have been taken from the "Arabian Nights."

Leaving Tangier, we will proceed to Fez, the great metropolis of Morocco. If we wish to gain any definite knowledge of this important city of the Sultan's dominions we must by no means fail to visit it.

Fez was founded more than eight hundred years before Christ. During the Middle Ages it was considered one of the largest, handsomest, and most important of the Mohammedan cities. At that time it was the capital of Morocco, and was said to have contained ninety thousand dwellings, nearly seven hundred mosques, besides magnificent public buildings, fine schools, and scientific inst.i.tutions.

About the middle of the sixteenth century the court was removed to Morocco, and Fez gradually exerted less and less influence. It is still, however, a city of importance and the capital of the northern province of the empire of Morocco.

Fez has rather a peculiar situation. It is in a tunnel-shaped valley, surrounded by hills. The higher portions of the valley are covered with a growth of trees. Orange groves and orchards are not uncommon features.

The city is divided into Old and New Fez by one of the branches of the Sebu, or "river of pearls."

Fez is regarded as the _Holy City_ by the western Arabs, on account of the many mosques and relics it contains. It is said still to contain one hundred mosques. The most important of these contains the monument of its builder, Sultan Muley Edris. It is sought by criminals as a place of refuge, when they are in danger of arrest. So strong is the feeling for the sanct.i.ty of the place, that no refugee is ever molested while under its roof.

The old palace of the Sultan, which still stands, is fast falling into decay since the removal of the court to Morocco.

The external aspect of Fez does not differ materially from other Mohammedan towns. There are the various baths and bazaars with which the eye becomes familiarized; the numerous caravansaries, or inns, for the accommodation of the many caravans that a.s.semble here on their way to and fro across the desert. These inns are large square buildings with open courtyards in the middle.

The mult.i.tude of hotels and shops on all sides is the only feature to remind the stranger of European cities. Fez still carries on quite a considerable trade by means of caravans, which travel into the adjoining countries on the south and east, as far as Timbuctoo.

Both Old and New Fez are surrounded by old brick walls and great towers of limestone. These are fast crumbling to pieces from exposure to the elements.

Outside of the gates of the city and for a good distance into the surrounding country may be seen traces of the foundation of a city.

Everything points to its ruin by war and conflagration; for here are seen monuments, ruined tombs, and arches of aqueducts, remnants of the past.

As we enter the city a constantly increasing crowd is seen. Men stop to look at us with an air of astonishment or curiosity; women turn aside their faces, and try to hide themselves from our gaze; the very children flee from us in dismay, uttering cries of fear in their flight.

On either hand we behold fountains richly ornamented in mosaic work, or doorways beautiful with arabesque decorations, characteristic of the Arabian taste, consisting of a fanciful combination of all kinds of figures of men and animals, either real or imaginary.

Here and there we behold arcades and remnants of fine Arabic architecture, all showing the destroying touch of Father Time. At intervals we plunge into dark covered pa.s.sage ways and emerge into the light only to enter again into shadow. The princ.i.p.al streets, usually thronged, are only about seven feet wide. On either hand are open bazaars filled with animated buyers.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A WATER CARRIER AT FEZ.]

The courts of the various inns are piled high with bales of merchandise, and the entrances of the mosques present a long perspective of white arcades and the prostrate figures of the worshipers engaged in prayer.

We find the air impregnated with the varied and penetrating odor of aloes and aromatic perfumes, or with the oppressive smell of incense, till it seems to us as if we were within the walls of some mammoth drug store. On every side dirt and squalor abound, and clouds of dust fill the air, so that the eyes, nose, and the lungs even, are uncomfortably affected.

The terraces on the house tops are a pleasant sight in the cool of the day. In Fez, as in other cities of the empire, these terraces are reserved for the women, and are considered rather a necessary feature of the harem, or women's apartments.

They are built high above the ground, many of them being surrounded by a wall higher than a man's head. This is pierced with loopholes, since it would be impossible to look over the top of it.

The imperial palace is a very lofty edifice built upon an eminence. The view from the top of it discloses thousands of white terraces. From the palace there is also a fine view of the hills encircling the city and of the mountains towering in the distance.

It is interesting to catch a glimpse of the Moorish women upon the terraced house tops, many of which have parapets, or walls, breast high, to surround them. Most of the women are richly dressed, and may be seen strolling backwards and forwards, or seated upon the parapets. Some of the younger ones amuse themselves by leaping like children from one terrace to another; they play at hide and seek, or laughingly splash water in one another's faces, as merry as children. Others appear older and more sedate, and mingling with them may be seen groups of children of eight or ten years of age.

The greater part of these Moorish women wear the hair flowing loosely over the shoulders. A large red or green handkerchief is bound around the head to keep the hair in place.

The dress most commonly seen is a loosely flowing robe of varied and brilliant coloring. It has very large flowing sleeves, and is fastened about the waist by a blue or red sash. A jacket, open at the chest, large, full trousers, yellow slippers, and heavy silver anklets complete this curious yet attractive costume. All are arrayed in oriental costumes of the most vivid coloring.

Many of the Moorish women are considered very beautiful, with their almond-shaped eyes veiled by long lashes, a slightly curved nose, and small, rounded mouth; but to our eyes their faces lack animation. The eyes are heavy and sleepy looking, and the rouge, powder, and various cosmetics which they employ when making their toilet render them hideous rather than beautiful in the eyes of practical Americans.

Living as they do in the closest seclusion, with no social nor educational advantages, we cannot wonder that their minds are undeveloped and inactive, and that life at best in the Moorish household, is, for its women, monotonous and dull.

Leaving the city of Fez in the company of a caravan, we reach the capital of Morocco after several days and nights of travel and of camping out.

The city of Morocco stands on a plain and is surrounded by walls six miles in circ.u.mference, with square towers one hundred and fifty feet apart rising from them. These walls are built of a kind of cement made from finely powdered lime and earth. Eleven gates, or entrances, pierce these walls, and crowds of people are coming and going constantly through them during the day.

Morocco cannot be said to be a very brilliant capital. The streets are narrow and dark, and a stranger would not care to wander through them at night. The houses, like those in other parts of the empire, are mostly of one story, with flat roofs. The interior is more attractive than the exterior. The apartments are usually built around a court; within this court a fountain or a statue forms the center of attraction.