"Yeah," Tess said. "It's not that I don't love nature, it's just that I want amenities. It was really nice of them to let us stay. And I think they meant it when they said they'd come visit us in Marshbury, too."

"I have plenty of room," I said. "They can stay with me."

"I still can't believe that thing they told us," Rosie said, "about black currant champagne being made with ordinary creme de cassis. All that muddling for nothing."

"It was worth it," Tess said. "I know Annalisa appreciated the gesture."

The wind whipped our already wind-matted hair around, and the sun was moving higher up over the mountains to our right. To our left, we could see a huge cruise ship way off in the distance, maybe on its way to Alaska. The tide was going out, giving us more and more packed hard sand to walk on.

"How about the looks on their faces?" Tess said. "I mean, how scared were they?"

"We were pretty scared ourselves," I said.

"Not me," Rosie said. "I had the plunger."

"You know what the best part is?" I said. I checked my pedometer. "All that walking we did yesterday, and look at us today. I mean, my legs are a little tight, but other than that, I'm ready for the next adventure."

THE SIXTY-FIVE-FOOT REI climbing wall was called the Pinnacle, and they gave us pagers so we could shop while we waited for our turns. We'd considered a spin or two around the mountain bike test trail instead, but after packing, checking out of the Sequim Suites, and making the two-hour drive back to Seattle, we were running a bit low on energy. climbing wall was called the Pinnacle, and they gave us pagers so we could shop while we waited for our turns. We'd considered a spin or two around the mountain bike test trail instead, but after packing, checking out of the Sequim Suites, and making the two-hour drive back to Seattle, we were running a bit low on energy.

"Shopping always works," Tess said. "It's the world's best pick-me-up."

"Food is better," Rosie said. "And it's a lot less work."

"Tie breaker," Tess said. "Come on, Noreen, which is better, shopping or food?"

"Shopping for food?" I said. "Ohmigod, look at this." I held up a beautiful teal jacket called a power hoodie. The name alone might have made me buy it, but I also thought it would be perfect for walking my way through the next season.

I looked at Rosie and Tess. "Maybe we should have a Wildwater Walking Club uniform?"

"Nah," we all said. Tess picked out a jacket in orange and Rosie found one in sage.

Our pagers went off before we had time to do any more damage.

The climbing wall was a scarily realistic rock sculpture encased in a tall glass box attached to the store.

We looked up. Way up. "Maybe it's just because I'm short," Rosie said, "but sixty-five feet is a lot higher than it sounds."

"We'll be fine," I said. "It says here you only have to be eight years old to climb it."

"I was a lot braver when I was eight," Tess said.

We were each assigned to a friendly outdoorsy-looking staffer, who helped us into our safety gear and "belayed" us by holding on to ropes attached to our harnesses by metal hooks called carabiners.

We all made it at least partway up our beginner's route, and more importantly, all the way back down in one piece. It was truly terrifying, even after I discovered that the trick to rock climbing is not to look down. Because if you look down, you'll realize how certifiably insane you are.

I stepped out of my harness and handed it to a woman my age. She looked scared.

"You'll be fine," I said. "Just don't look down."

"We totally rocked it," Tess said as she stepped out of her harness. "I bet we have just as much upper body strength as those kayak women at the winery. Maybe even more."

"I wouldn't mind doing some kayaking," Rosie said, "just to break it up. And we should definitely check out the REI trip-planning area on the way out."

I massaged the front of my thighs, where I could feel the lactic acid already starting to build up in the muscles. I knew I'd be sore, but I'd also lived up to the challenge. I felt feisty and fabulous.

Finding a parking place at Pike Place Market turned out to be a bigger challenge than the REI climbing wall. Eventually we found a garage way up the hill, then practically rolled our way back down to the waterfront. It was worth it. The market was a sprawling maze of vendors' stalls and multileveled old buildings. We sampled chocolate-covered cherries at Chukar Cherries and pepper jellies on crackers at Mick's Peppourri. We took turns putting pennies into Rachel the Pig, the unofficial Pike Place Market mascot piggy bank.

We wove our way through a waterfront teeming with people, then started climbing back up the hill, trying to decide where to grab something to eat before we headed for the airport.

"Ooh, let's go there," Rosie said. She pointed to a purple sign that said PURPLE CAFe AND WINE BAR PURPLE CAFe AND WINE BAR.

"How perfect," Tess said.

"Do you have a good cab franc?" I said to impress the gorgeous waiter when he came over to our table.

He smiled and flashed brilliantly white teeth. "Sorry, we're all out of wine." Behind him, an enormous round multistory wine rack took up the whole center of the room.

"Cut it out," I said.

He burst out laughing. "'Cut it out,'" he said. "You sound like home. Massachusetts, right?"

"Right," I said.

"I went to school there," he said. "If you love Boston, you'll totally love Seattle."

"We do," we all said at once.

"Let me see if I can find you some wine," he said.

We looked around the room while we waited. Really handsome waiters glided around the room, and same-sex couples occupied many of the tables.

"Is this a gay bar?" Rosie whispered.

"Seems like," I said.

"What is it about the color purple?" Tess asked our waiter when he came back. "I mean, why do gay people get their own color? Straight people don't have a color."

"Cut it out," our waiter said as he put our wineglasses down in front of us. "You people don't have your own color yet?" He hugged his round tray into his chest and considered. "Okay, you can have blue. It's right next to us on the color wheel."

"WHAT A FUN trip," Rosie said when we were finally back at the airport. "You'd think I'd be lavendered out, but I'm not. I'm almost looking forward to weeding mine tomorrow." trip," Rosie said when we were finally back at the airport. "You'd think I'd be lavendered out, but I'm not. I'm almost looking forward to weeding mine tomorrow."

"You know," Tess said, "last night was actually a good thing. It got us on schedule for the red-eye. I can't believe we get into Boston at 10:42 A.M A.M. I think this will be the first all-nighter I've pulled since college."

"I can't wait to check on my garden," I said.

"I wonder if my daughter has managed to escape yet," Tess said.

"Speaking of families," Rosie said, "I wonder if our parents are still a hot item."

"And I wonder," I said, "if I'm still the most wanted woman in Marshbury."

"You have to admit," Tess said, "that has a nice ring to it."

"Come on," Rosie said. "We have just enough time to hit ten thousand steps for the day before they board the plane. And then may I please have some more Valium? I promise I'll pay you back."

Day 29

10,232 steps

WE'D SLEPT MOST OF THE PLANE RIDE HOME, SO WE DECIDED to have the driver drop us all off at my house. That way we could get a walk in before we reentered our lives. to have the driver drop us all off at my house. That way we could get a walk in before we reentered our lives.

We turned to look when we passed it, but all was quiet on the Marshbury common. The posters and clothesline were gone. Crystal clear water gushed from the three bronze elephants' trunks in the fountain.

"Let's just throw our stuff in your garage," Rosie said when we turned into Wildwater Way. "I'm dying to see my family, but if I go home first, I won't get out again until tomorrow."

"Yeah," Tess said. "I could definitely use some endorphins before I face my daughter. Plus, we should write down our mileage before we forget. It's never too soon to start stockpiling miles for the next trip."

"Maybe we can go to Cape Cod Lavender Farm later this week," I said.

"And visit the Five Sisters of Lavender Lane next week," Rosie said. She sighed. "I can dream, can't I?"

As soon as we finished recording our mileage, I carried my stuff into the house. There was a note from my mother. Gone to Nantucket with Kent Gone to Nantucket with Kent, it said. Watch out for the chickens Watch out for the chickens.

We all used the bathroom, grabbed bottles of water from my refrigerator, and headed out on our usual walk.

We saw the first clothesline while we were still on Wildwater Way. It was stretched across the front yard of a huge yellow colonial with black shutters, and big white sheets were blowing in the wind. Between two sheets, a sign was attached with clothespins. It said BAN THE BAN BAN THE BAN.

"Ohmigod," I said. "They stole my line."

"No pun intended," Rosie said.

Just before we crossed the street, we saw another sign: HANG IT UP: FIGHT FOR THE RIGHT TO AIR DRY HANG IT UP: FIGHT FOR THE RIGHT TO AIR DRY was tacked to a telephone pole. was tacked to a telephone pole.

"This is so cool," I said. "Look what we've started."

"Excuse me," Tess said, "but I'm the one who started it."

"Excuse me," I said. "But I'm the one who could still get arrested."

"Well," Rosie said, "I want in. I'm still wiped out from that Valium, but as soon as I take a nap, I'll put up a sign at the end of my driveway. Oh, don't worry, I really will pay you back as soon as I get a prescription, Tess."

We walked through the seawall. It felt good to be walking on our own beach again. I kind of missed it.

"Actually, it was only magnesium," Tess said. "It wasn't really Valium."

"What?" Rosie said.

"It's called the placebo effect," Tess said.

"She once gave her husband a Smurf blue vitamin and told him it was Viagra." I giggled. "It worked like a charm."

Rosie turned and started race-walking in the other direction.

"Rosie," Tess said.

"Leave me alone," Rosie said.

I ran a few steps after her. "Rosie," I yelled.

"Both of you," she yelled without turning around.

Tess and I finished our walk, but we didn't say much. Rosie's luggage was gone when we got back to my garage. Tess grabbed hers and started rolling it across the lawn to her house.

"It'll blow over," I said. "We're all exhausted."

Tess just kept rolling.

I went inside, jumped in the shower, then brewed some coffee and ate a yogurt and an apple. I checked the clock over the stove. If I hurried, I had just enough time to make it to my Fresh Horizons South small-group counseling class.

I didn't have the energy to try to impress anyone today, and I wasn't even sure if I wanted to, so I just blow-dried my hair and threw on jeans and a T-shirt and a little bit of makeup.

I drove to Fresh Horizons South and pulled into the parking lot. Just as I was getting ready to open the car door, there was a knock on the passenger window. I jumped.

Rick smiled through the glass. He had a brand-new haircut, and he looked freshly shaven and distinctly unscruffy. I pushed the button and rolled down the window.

"Can I come in?" he asked.

"To the car?" I asked.

His cat green eyes held mine. "Well, you could take it more symbolically, I guess, but I'm okay with the car."

I flicked the unlock button from my side.