2. Place the drained rice in the rice cooker bowl. Cover with a clean, wet tea towel and let the rice rest for 30 minutes 3. Set a kettle of water on to boil. Meanwhile, rinse the fresh shiitake mushroom, if using. If using the dried mushrooms, place in a small bowl, cover with water, partially cover with plastic wrap, and microwave on high for 2 minutes, or cover with warm water and let soak for 30 minutes. Drain, pat dry, and thinly slice.

4. Break apart the shimeji shimeji mushrooms; trim and discard the ends. Wipe gently with a damp tea towel or paper towel to clean. Gently brush or wipe any dirt from the oyster mushrooms, then slice them, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g and discarding the ends. Put all the mushrooms in a medium-size bowl. Sprinkle the soy sauce over them and set aside. mushrooms; trim and discard the ends. Wipe gently with a damp tea towel or paper towel to clean. Gently brush or wipe any dirt from the oyster mushrooms, then slice them, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g and discarding the ends. Put all the mushrooms in a medium-size bowl. Sprinkle the soy sauce over them and set aside.

5. Place the tofu puff in a colander in the sink and pour boiling water over it to remove excess oil. Dry with a paper towel and cut into thin slices. Toss the tofu slices with the mushrooms and soy sauce.

6. Add the sake and dashi to the soaked rice. The dashi should not quite come up to the 4-cup level on the rice cooker bowl. (The mushrooms will contribute some moisture to the dish.) Add the mushroom mixture to the rice; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

7. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon, mixing thoroughly but gently. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for 1 to 2 hours. Serve hot, with some soy sauce on the side, if desired.

mexican rice and beans Rice and beans are partners in all ethnic cuisines-rice and lentils in India, sticky rice and red adzuki beans in j.a.pan, black rice and beans in Cuba. Here, rice, beans, chile peppers, and tomatoes, staples in the Mexican kitchen, are combined for a very simple all-in-one meal. Serve with warm corn tortillas. If you have an avocado tree or can find avocado leaves in a Mexican market, give that option a try.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 41 cup long-grain white rice1 cup chicken stockPinch of salt1 tablespoon olive oil, vegetable oil, or rendered chicken fat1 large yellow onion, chopped1 red bell pepper, halved, seeded, and sliced1 jalapeno chile, seeded and mincedOne 15-ounce can pinto beans, drained and rinsedOne 15-ounce can plum tomatoes (can be flavored with Mexican spices), with their juices1 teaspoon crumbled dried oregano leaves or 1 small avocado leaf, toasted and crumbled2 tablespoons capers, rinsedFreshly ground black pepper3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish cup creme fraiche, crema Mexicana crema Mexicana, or sour cream, for garnish cup crumbled queso fresco queso fresco (available in the dairy section in supermarkets) or feta cheese, for garnish (available in the dairy section in supermarkets) or feta cheese, for garnish 1. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Add the rice, stock, and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. While the rice is cooking, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Open the cover of the rice cooker and add the jalapeno, onion-pepper mixture, pinto beans, tomatoes, oregano, capers, and a few grinds of black pepper; stir to combine. Close the cover and let the cycle complete.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.

4. Serve hot, garnished with the cilantro, creme fraiche, and crumbled cheese.

chinese sausage and rice Food historian and cookbook author Barbara Grunes uses her rice cooker for her home meals. Her recipe for chewy medium-grain rice with spicy Chinese sausage and cilantro is good by itself or as a side dish to serve with other Asian-style foods. The sweet Chinese pork sausage is seasoned with sugar, salt, and wine (look for it in the refrigerator case in Asian markets). If you want to vary the flavor, use cooked Italian sausage and basil instead of the green onions, cilantro, and sesame seeds. The sausage gently flavors the rice as it cooks. Look for black sesame seeds in Asian markets. If you can't find them, use j.a.panese or regular white sesame seeds. The j.a.panese ones are more flavorful. This is a super-easy, satisfying dish.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 42 cups medium-grain white rice1 cup Chinese sausage (lop cheon) thinly sliced on the diagonal cup thinly sliced green onions, mostly green parts2 cups water cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish2 tablespoons black sesame seeds (goma), for garnish 1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water twice, and drain twice.

2. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice, sausage, and green onions in the rice bowl. Add the water; stir just to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon.

4. Serve immediately. Spoon the rice mixture into a deep serving bowl and sprinkle with the cilantro and then the sesame seeds.

super supper sausage and rice Here is another super-simple, delicious meal. There are many brands of lowfat gourmet smoked sausages on the market; we use the locally produced Aidells (the smoked duck sausage and the smoked chicken and turkey with artichokes are also favorites). Laying the ingredients on top of the rice to steam is a Chinese technique developed when rice was cooked in a wok and the meat or vegetables cooked at the same time. If you double the recipe to feed four, adjust the proportions to 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons rice and 2 cups water.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 21 cup long-grain white rice1 cups water2 smoked chicken-apple sausages (about 8 ounces total) 1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water, and pour as much of the water off as you can, taking care to keep the rice in the bottom of the bowl.

2. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. Set a timer for 15 minutes (or for 30 minutes if your rice cooker has a soaking period built in).

3. Cut the sausages into -inch-thick slices (slice completely through; you want separate pieces), leaving the sausage shape intact after slicing for easy transfer to the pot. When the timer sounds, open the cover and, holding the sausage at both ends, place the entire sausage on top of the rice, letting the slices fall open (sort of a fan design across the rice, but any way is okay). The sausages will cover the surface of the rice; press them slightly into the partially cooked rice. Close the cover and let the rice finish the cycle.

4. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

rainbow rice in a pot This fantastic recipe is from talented food writer and TV chef Martin Yan. It is a lovely dish redolent of his love for and expertise in Chinese cuisine. Rainbow rice gets its evocative name from the array of colors that will be apparent when you serve this dish. Be sure to use a medium-grain rice; you want the slightly moist texture so it is easy to eat with chopsticks. We also like this with edamame instead of peas.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 3 to 43 dried shiitake mushrooms1 cups medium-grain white rice4 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast, thinly sliced2 tablespoons diced Smithfield ham cup diced carrot cup frozen peas1 cups water1 cups reduced-sodium chicken stock2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine (available in Chinese markets) or dry sherry1 tablespoons soy sauce teaspoon salt 1. Place the mushrooms in a small bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 30 minutes. Or partially cover the bowl with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 2 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, remove the stems, and cut the caps into thin slices.

2. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water, and drain.

3. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the remaining ingredients; stir just to combine.Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

4. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

j.a.panese rice with mushrooms and chicken In j.a.pan, there is an entire category of dishes called takikomi gohan takikomi gohan, or ingredients cooked together with rice. One of the simplest is rice and peas, a combination that is a favorite in many parts of the world (risi e bisi, anyone?). Rice with chestnuts and rice with bamboo shoots are j.a.panese seasonal favorites: bamboo shoots in the spring and chestnuts in the fall. The category continues to grow today, as inventive cooks combine Eastern and Western ingredients with rice in new ways. With an electric rice cooker, takikomi gohan takikomi gohan are easy, flavorful, and reliable one-dish meals-ca.s.seroles, essentially. are easy, flavorful, and reliable one-dish meals-ca.s.seroles, essentially.

This recipe, from Julie's friend Atsuko Ishii, is a traditional-style takikomi gohan takikomi gohan. It contains one ingredient that may be un familiar: konnyaku konnyaku, sometimes translated as devil's-tongue jelly. As the name implies, it's gelatinous and gray in color. It has little flavor on its own but a nice, chewy texture, and it gains flavor during cooking. Made from yams, it is usually sold in small blocks in plastic pouches. It must be boiled briefly before using. The day Atsuko shopped for konnyaku konnyaku, she found only tama konnyaku tama konnyaku, or konnyaku konnyaku shaped into little b.a.l.l.s. We just sliced the b.a.l.l.s and they worked out fine. shaped into little b.a.l.l.s. We just sliced the b.a.l.l.s and they worked out fine. Konnyaku Konnyaku is very low in calories and Atsuko says it's a favorite of dieters in j.a.pan. Sweetened, it's a popular low-calorie dessert. If you can't find is very low in calories and Atsuko says it's a favorite of dieters in j.a.pan. Sweetened, it's a popular low-calorie dessert. If you can't find konnyaku konnyaku in your local Asian market, just make the dish without it. in your local Asian market, just make the dish without it.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 4 to 62 cups (3 rice cooker cups) j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain rice pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs2 tablespoons soy sauce4 medium-large dried shiitake mushrooms1 medium-size carrotAbout 4 ounces (125 grams) konnyaku konnyaku (optional) (optional)4 fried tofu puffs (abura age; optional)2 tablespoons sake1 tablespoon mirin (sweet rice wine) teaspoon salt2 to 3 cups Sharon's Dashi or packet instant powdered dashi 1. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear. Place the drained rice in the rice cooker bowl.

2. Trim any fat from the chicken and cut it into small bite-size pieces, about 3.4 inch square. Put the chicken in a small bowl with the soy sauce. Mix well, using your fingers to gently but firmly "ma.s.sage" the soy sauce into the chicken. Spend at least 1 minute doing this. It is an important step that ensures that the chicken will not give off the objectionable odor that sometimes results when chicken is cooked in water. Leave the chicken marinating in the soy sauce.

3. Place the dried mushrooms in a micro wave-safe dish just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add water to the dish, 3.4 to 1 inch deep. Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and micro wave it on high for 2 minutes. Remove from the microwave and allow it to cool. (Alter natively, you can soak the mushrooms in cold water for several hours or in hot water for about 30 minutes.) 4. Slice the carrot into thin strips about 1 inches long by inch wide, sort of like a fat julienne. Set aside.

5. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. While you are waiting for the water to boil, slice the konnyaku konnyaku into pieces similar in shape to the carrot. If you are using into pieces similar in shape to the carrot. If you are using konnyaku konnyaku b.a.l.l.s, slice them about inch thick. When the water boils, add the b.a.l.l.s, slice them about inch thick. When the water boils, add the konnyaku konnyaku and boil, uncovered, for 1 minute. Drain and set aside. and boil, uncovered, for 1 minute. Drain and set aside.

6. Rinse out the saucepan, refill it with water, and bring it to a boil again.

7. By now, the mushrooms should be cool enough to handle. Remove them from the liquid (reserving the liquid) and gently squeeze out any excess liquid. Cut off the stems and discard. Slice the mushrooms thinly and set aside.

8. When the water boils, add the tofu puffs and boil them for 1 to 2 minutes to remove any excess oil. Drain the puffs in a colander. When they are cool enough to handle, slice them in half crosswise, then stack the halves and cut into thin strips.

9. Add the sake, mirin, and salt to the rice in the rice cooker. Add most of the mushroom soaking liquid to the rice, pouring slowly and carefully and discarding the last bit, which always contains some grit from the mushrooms. If you are using the dashi powder, add it now, and then add water until the liquid reaches the 3-cup level on your rice cooker bowl. If you are using homemade dashi, add it until the liquid reaches the 3-cup level on your rice cooker bowl. Stir to combine. (Or use a U.S. measuring cup and combine the sake, mirin, salt, mushroom liquid, and dashi to equal 3 U.S. cups. Add the liquids to the bowl and stir to combine.) 10. Add the chicken, mushrooms, carrot, konnyaku konnyaku, and tofu strips to the rice cooker. Stir gently but thoroughly to combine, but do not stir them down into the rice. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

11. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Stir the rice thoroughly with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon to incorporate the chicken, tofu, and vegetables with the rice. Serve the rice immediately or hold on the Keep Warm cycle for up to 1 hour.

note:Abura age, or deep-fried tofu puffs, are sold fresh or frozen in j.a.panese markets or are available canned; fresh or frozen are preferred. If you buy fresh ones, you can keep them in the freezer so they'll be ready for takikomi gohan takikomi gohan, inari zushi inari zushi, or other uses. One variety of frozen puffs is already seasoned; this is best for inari zushi inari zushi. For this recipe and other rice dishes, use the unseasoned variety.

indonesian rice bowl From one of the Bay Area's favorite food writers, backyard gardeners, and seed pur veyors, Renee Shepherd, comes this satisfying one-dish meal adapted from her book Recipes from a Kitchen Garden Recipes from a Kitchen Garden (Ten Speed, 1993). This is a great recipe to use up leftover chicken. The popular peanut sauce is one of the definitive tastes of the Southeast Asian and Thai cuisines. This simplified version of the (Ten Speed, 1993). This is a great recipe to use up leftover chicken. The popular peanut sauce is one of the definitive tastes of the Southeast Asian and Thai cuisines. This simplified version of the rijsttafel rijsttafel table, a popular full-rice meal in Indonesia, looks incredibly festive served with all the condiments. table, a popular full-rice meal in Indonesia, looks incredibly festive served with all the condiments.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 4RICE1 cup Thai jasmine rice1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water2 cups fresh or frozen pet.i.te peas (2 pounds fresh unsh.e.l.led)2 cups shredded poached chicken breast cup hot chicken stockSAUCE cup creamy peanut b.u.t.ter cup chicken broth or water1 tablespoon dry sherry2 tablespoons rice vinegar2 teaspoons peeled and grated fresh ginger teaspoon cayenne pepper teaspoon sugar1 clove garlic, minced2 green onions, white parts only, minced (chop the green tops for garnish) cup chopped roasted peanuts, for garnishCONDIMENTSSeparate small bowls of chutney, sliced bananas, raisins, unsweetened shredded coconut, minced fresh cilantro leaves, mandarin orange segments, chopped apples, plain yogurt 1. Make the rice: Make the rice: Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the water; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the water; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. Make the sauce: Make the sauce: In a medium-size sauce pan, combine all the sauce ingredients. Cook over low heat, stirring a few times, until the mixture achieves a saucelike consistency. Cover and keep warm. In a medium-size sauce pan, combine all the sauce ingredients. Cook over low heat, stirring a few times, until the mixture achieves a saucelike consistency. Cover and keep warm.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, sprinkle the peas and chicken on top of the rice. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 20 minutes.

4. Transfer the rice mixture to a warmed serving platter with sloped sides. Pour the hot stock and peanut sauce over the rice. Stir gently to combine the peas and chicken with the stock and peanut sauce. Sprinkle with the green onion tops and peanuts. Serve immediately with a choice of condiments.

chicken donburi Donburi is a j.a.panese dish that is served in a special oversized rice bowl of the same name. Once Beth discovered how much she loved Calrose and Tamaki Gold rices, she had to have a special simple little meal with which to eat them. Here is one of her best and fastest. If you use the chicken stock, you can add a small piece of kombu dried seaweed (cut an inch-square piece with kitchen shears), if you like. Mirin is a low-alcohol sweet cooking wine (of which there is also a non-alcohol version available) that you can find in the Asian food section of the supermarket. is a j.a.panese dish that is served in a special oversized rice bowl of the same name. Once Beth discovered how much she loved Calrose and Tamaki Gold rices, she had to have a special simple little meal with which to eat them. Here is one of her best and fastest. If you use the chicken stock, you can add a small piece of kombu dried seaweed (cut an inch-square piece with kitchen shears), if you like. Mirin is a low-alcohol sweet cooking wine (of which there is also a non-alcohol version available) that you can find in the Asian food section of the supermarket.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 32 dried shiitake mushrooms (optional)1 cups (2 rice cooker cups) j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain white rice (not Arborio or other risotto-style rice)2 cups water (1 cups for short-grain rice)Pinch of sea salt2 cups Dashi or chicken stock3 tablespoons tamari soy sauce3 tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine) or 3 tablespoons sake and pinch of sugar3 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch strips6 to 8 ounces firm tofu, cut into cubes Chopped green parts of green onions or minced fresh chives, for garnish2 to 3 tablespoons toasted j.a.panese sesame seeds for garnish 1. Place the mushrooms, if using, in a small bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 30 minutes. Or partially cover the bowl with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 2 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, remove the stems, and cut the caps into thin slices.

2. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

3. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and let the rice soak for 30 minutes to 1 hour. When the soaking period is finished, set for the regular cycle.

4. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the rice gently but thoroughly with a plastic or wooden rice paddle or wooden spoon. Close the cover and let the rice steam for another 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, poach the chicken. In a medium-size saucepan, combine the dashi, tamari, and mirin. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the chicken and mushrooms, if using, and cook, partially covered, until the chicken is cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. At the very end, toss in the tofu and let it heat for a minute or so.

6. When the rice has finished steaming, fluff it with the paddle or spoon again. Spoon the rice into individual bowls and top each with a portion of the chicken and tofu mixture. Ladle some of the poaching broth over the top and garnish with the greens and sesame seeds. Serve immediately.

paella saute with saffron and spanish rice Beth's dear friend and consummate food writer Rick Rodgers serves this dish to his own weekend guests. It has all the elements of a cla.s.sic paella-rice, saffron, sausage, chicken, bell peppers-but is oh so much easier and so much quicker. It is adapted from his book, On Rice On Rice (Chronicle Books, 1997), and when we asked him what his favorite recipe was, this was it. We heartily agree. (Chronicle Books, 1997), and when we asked him what his favorite recipe was, this was it. We heartily agree.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 4 to 52 cups medium-grain white rice or Valencia medium-grain rice (not j.a.panese style)2 cups plus 2 tablespoons water teaspoon salt3 ounces Spanish chorizo or other smoked sausage, such as linguica or andouille, cut into 1/4-inch dice1 pounds boneless, skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, trimmed of fat and cut into 2-inch-long strips2 tablespoons olive oil1 shallot, minced1 small red bell pepper, seeded and chopped2 cloves garlic, minced cup frozen pet.i.te peas1 teaspoon dried oregano or marjoram leaves, crumbled teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled1 cups Fish Stock (see), or cup water and cup bottled clam juice cup dry white wine teaspoon red pepper flakes2 teaspoons cornstarchPinch of saltHot pepper sauceChopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, for garnish 1. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of olive oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add 22.3 cups of the water and the salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 to 15 minutes. Fluff the rice with a plastic or wooden rice paddle or wooden spoon. The rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 4 hours.

3. While the rice is cooking, in a 12-inch nonstick skillet cook the chorizo with the remaining 2 tablespoons water over medium-high heat, stirring, until the water evaporates and the sausage is browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to drain on a layer of paper towels. Add the chicken to the skillet; cook until cooked through, about 5 minutes, then transfer the chicken to the paper towels with the sausage.

4. Add the olive oil to the skillet along with the shallot, bell pepper, and garlic. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in the peas, oregano, and saffron.

5. In a small bowl, combine the fish stock, wine, and pepper flakes. Whisk in the cornstarch until dissolved. Pour this mixture into the skillet and bring to a simmer. Return the sausage and chicken to the skillet. Cook until the sauce has thickened and is heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the salt and hot pepper sauce to taste.

6. To serve, portion the rice into shallow soup bowls and top with the saute and a bit of the sauce. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

madame soohoo's fish and rice This is a home recipe from Elaine Corn and David SooHoo, owners of Bamboo Restaurant in Sacramento, California. "David's mother makes a marinated fish that cooks right on top of the rice in the cooker," said Elaine during one of our conversations about rice. She always uses Nishiki brand rice. "When my mother visits from Texas, she always carries back bags of Nishiki in her suitcase; they don't have it available down there," she adds. An excellent one-pot meal it is; perfect with a raw vegetable salad and steamed green beans or broccoli.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 3 to 4About 1 pounds fish fillets (red snapper, flounder, catfish, sole, or salmon) MARINADE.

2 teaspoons minced garlic or peeled and minced fresh ginger3 green onions, sliced cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 tablespoon vegetable oil3 tablespoons rice vinegar2 tablespoons oyster sauce2 tablespoons brandy or dry sherryPinch of sugar teaspoon ground white pepper1 tablespoons cornstarch teaspoon Asian sesame oilRICE1 cups j.a.panese-style medium-grain white rice, such as Nishiki or Calrose1 cups water 1. Break or slice the fish into 2-inch pieces. Place it in a shallow bowl or gla.s.s baking dish.

2. Make the marinade. In a small bowl, whisk the marinade ingredients together and pour over the fish. Marinate for 20 to 30 minutes at room temperature or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 4 hours (not overnight; the fish will get mushy).

3. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

4. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water; swirl to combine. Place the marinated fish pieces on top of the rice in the water; pour in any leftover marinade. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

5. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

salmon stuffed j.a.panese rice b.a.l.l.s Rice b.a.l.l.s, called onigiri onigiri, are the sandwiches of j.a.pan and a favorite portable food. They sport a variety of fillings, anything from tuna salad to an umeboshi plum. Tucked inside lunch boxes, briefcases, and backpacks, toted on picnics and car trips, rice b.a.l.l.s are tasty, filling, nutritious, and cheap, and they hold up well for hours at room temperature. Flaked salted cooked salmon is perhaps the most popular filling. You can freeze salted uncooked salmon strips, individually wrapped. Then you can be ready to make onigiri onigiri anytime. There is no need to thaw the salmon strips before cooking them in the oven or micro wave. Our thanks to Atsuko Ishii for this tip for busy cooks. anytime. There is no need to thaw the salmon strips before cooking them in the oven or micro wave. Our thanks to Atsuko Ishii for this tip for busy cooks.

Salt is key to two parts of this recipe, so use a good-quality fine sea salt instead of the kind that comes in the box with the girl with the umbrella on the front. You can find j.a.panese sea salt in plastic bags in Asian markets, or use French sea salt or fine sea salt from the health food store or gourmet market. (If you're doubtful that it makes a difference, perform a side-by-side taste test. The ma.s.s-market salt is harsher.) The j.a.panese technique of salting the salmon hours before cooking is used here. It flavors the fish and acts as a preservative and some say it diminishes any fishy taste. You can buy salmon already salted in j.a.panese markets, but it is certainly easy enough to do at home. Salt plays another important role in onigiri onigiri. Before shaping the b.a.l.l.s of hot rice, you will rub a bit of salt on your wet hands. The salt will melt and gently flavor the rice. While you might be a bit awkward at first with the shaping, it is a skill that develops rapidly with practice. Have fun! Salmon b.a.l.l.s are eaten at room temperature.

Sushi nori are the square sheets of thin seaweed used for wrapping sushi rolls. You can find them on the shelf in Asian markets, large supermarkets, or health food stores.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: About 20 rice b.a.l.l.s; serves 5 to 6 pound fresh salmon fillet, skin on to teaspoon fine sea salt, plus extra for shaping3 cups (4 rice cooker cups) j.a.panese-style short- or medium-grain rice5 sheets sushi nori 1. At least 2 hours and up to 1 day before you want to make rice b.a.l.l.s, salt the salmon. If your salmon is in a thick piece, cut it into pieces to 3.4 inch thick. Sprinkle the salt all over the cut sides of the salmon. Place the salmon in a container, cover tightly, and refrigerate until ready to use (or freeze; see headnote).

2. Preheat the oven to 375F.

3. Wash the rice. Place the rice in a bowl (or use the bowl of your rice cooker) and fill the bowl about half-full with cold tap water. Swirl the rice in the water with your hand. Carefully pour off most of the water, holding one cupped hand under the stream to catch any grains of rice that are carried away with the water. Holding the bowl steady with one hand, use the other to rub and squeeze the wet rice, turning the bowl as you go, so that all the rice is "scrubbed." The small amount of water in the bowl will turn chalky white. Now, run cold water into the bowl, give the rice a quick swish, and carefully drain off the water as before. Repeat the scrubbing and pouring-off process two more times. By the third time, the water you pour off will be nearly clear.

4. Place the drained rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add water to the 4-cup mark on the rice cooker. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

5. While the rice cooks, prepare the salmon. Cover a small baking sheet with aluminum foil. Spray the foil with nonstick cooking spray. Arrange the salmon pieces on the foil. Bake the salmon for 5 to 6 minutes, turning the fish over and continuing to bake until it is just cooked through, about 5 minutes more, depending on the thickness of the fish. (Flake with a fork to check for doneness.) The fish should not brown.

6. When the fish is cooked, remove it from the foil and place on a plate. Remove and discard the skin and any bones. Using a fork or chopsticks, flake the salmon into very small pieces, not more than inch long on a side. (Larger flakes might cause your rice b.a.l.l.s to split open.) 7. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the rice briefly with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Remove the bowl from the cooker and allow the rice to cool until it is just cool enough to easily handle, 3 to 4 minutes 8. Pour 1 tablespoon sea salt on a small plate. To shape the b.a.l.l.s, wet your hands with cool water. Touch your index finger to the salt in the dish and rub your hands together to distribute the salt. Scoop a small handful of warm rice into your palm, to cup. (Only a bit of experience will tell you what a handful is for you; you need enough to make a nice-sized rice ball but not so much that you cannot shape it properly.) Make a dent in the center of the rice ball and fill the dent with 1 to 2 teaspoons of the salmon. Cup your hands and use them to bury the salmon and shape the rice into an oval, like an egg. You'll be holding the rice in one cupped hand and using the other one to smooth and turn the rice ball around. Use enough pressure so that the rice sticks together. When the rice ball is smooth and even, set it on a plate. Repeat with the remaining rice and salmon, remembering to wet and salt your hands after every 1 or 2 rice b.a.l.l.s. You may have some salmon left over.

Rice b.a.l.l.s can be eaten immediately or stored, covered tightly, at room temperature for several hours. Do not refrigerate; the rice will harden.

9. Just before serving or packing in a lunch box or picnic basket, add the nori wrap. Cut each sheet of nori into 4 thick strips. Wrap each rice ball in a nori sheet.

variations: Want to get fancy? Your Want to get fancy? Your onigiri onigiri can be shaped into triangles. Follow the instructions through step 7 for stuffing the rice with the salmon. Wet and salt your hands as described in step 8. Then scoop a smaller than usual handful of rice into your palm. Put 1 to 2 teaspoons of the salmon onto the rice, then top the salmon with a small dab of rice, 2 teaspoons or so. This makes it easier to bury the salmon. Press the rice around the salmon. To shape the stuffed rice into a triangle, fold the hand holding the rice in half, keeping your fingers together and straight. Use the fingers of your other hand to press the rice into an upright triangle shape. Rotate the rice and press again to shape. Continue rotating and pressing, balancing the triangle upright against the fleshy part of your hand right below your thumb. It's easier than it sounds! can be shaped into triangles. Follow the instructions through step 7 for stuffing the rice with the salmon. Wet and salt your hands as described in step 8. Then scoop a smaller than usual handful of rice into your palm. Put 1 to 2 teaspoons of the salmon onto the rice, then top the salmon with a small dab of rice, 2 teaspoons or so. This makes it easier to bury the salmon. Press the rice around the salmon. To shape the stuffed rice into a triangle, fold the hand holding the rice in half, keeping your fingers together and straight. Use the fingers of your other hand to press the rice into an upright triangle shape. Rotate the rice and press again to shape. Continue rotating and pressing, balancing the triangle upright against the fleshy part of your hand right below your thumb. It's easier than it sounds!

bonito-stuffed rice b.a.l.l.s: Instead of salmon, use katsuo flakes (those are the shavings of dried bonito that are used to make dashi), cup or so, dampened with a bit of soy sauce. The larger bonito shavings are best for this, not the ones shredded as finely as angel hair pasta. (Don't use too much soy sauce or your rice b.a.l.l.s will be brown instead of white.) Prepare the rice b.a.l.l.s as directed, subst.i.tuting the damp katsuo flakes for the fish. Instead of salmon, use katsuo flakes (those are the shavings of dried bonito that are used to make dashi), cup or so, dampened with a bit of soy sauce. The larger bonito shavings are best for this, not the ones shredded as finely as angel hair pasta. (Don't use too much soy sauce or your rice b.a.l.l.s will be brown instead of white.) Prepare the rice b.a.l.l.s as directed, subst.i.tuting the damp katsuo flakes for the fish.

tuna-stuffed rice b.a.l.l.s: Make a simple tuna salad by combining a well-drained 6-ounce can of oil-packed tuna with 1 to 2 teaspoons mayonnaise and soy sauce to taste (start with teaspoon or so). Stuff and wrap the rice b.a.l.l.s as directed. Make a simple tuna salad by combining a well-drained 6-ounce can of oil-packed tuna with 1 to 2 teaspoons mayonnaise and soy sauce to taste (start with teaspoon or so). Stuff and wrap the rice b.a.l.l.s as directed.

umeboshi-stuffed rice b.a.l.l.s: Stuff the rice b.a.l.l.s as directed with 1 small or half of a large umeboshi (pickled plum). These are sold in small jars in Asian markets. If you purchase umeboshi with their pits, take care when eating them. Wrap as directed. Stuff the rice b.a.l.l.s as directed with 1 small or half of a large umeboshi (pickled plum). These are sold in small jars in Asian markets. If you purchase umeboshi with their pits, take care when eating them. Wrap as directed.

TOASTING SEEDS AND NUTSSh.e.l.led nuts and seeds are often added to rice dishes, providing flavor along with naturally built-in nourishment. Nuts bring a unique character to rice dishes due to their high percentage of flavorful natural fat, which is released in the presence of heat. You can use raw nuts, toasted nuts, dry-roasted nuts, and nuts with or without salt, as desired. Favorite nuts include almonds, walnuts, and pine nuts. Chestnuts are used in j.a.panese and Italian rices, pistachios are used in Indian rices, and macadamia nuts are used in fusion recipes. Almonds and hazelnuts, unlike walnuts and pecans, have thin skins, which can be removed by blanching before using. Store all sh.e.l.led nuts in the refrigerator for about nine months or in the freezer for no longer than one year, until the next year's new crop, but fresh is best.To Toast Almonds, Pecans, Walnuts, and Pine NutsToasting gives nuts a richer flavor and crisps the texture. Slivered or sliced nuts will toast much more quickly than pieces or halves.[image]In a conventional oven: Preheat the oven to 325F. Place the nuts on an ungreased baking sheet on the center rack and toast for 10 to 15 minutes (depending on the size of the nuts), stirring once with a flat spatula. The nuts should be hot and very pale golden; if they get darker, the flavor will be destroyed and the nuts will taste burnt. Let cool to room temperature before using. Preheat the oven to 325F. Place the nuts on an ungreased baking sheet on the center rack and toast for 10 to 15 minutes (depending on the size of the nuts), stirring once with a flat spatula. The nuts should be hot and very pale golden; if they get darker, the flavor will be destroyed and the nuts will taste burnt. Let cool to room temperature before using.[image]In the microwave oven: Place the nuts in a single layer on a shallow paper plate or double layer of paper towels. Toast the nuts on high power for 4 to 5 minutes per cup, stirring every 1 to 2 minutes to prevent burning and facilitate even browning. This method toasts nuts very quickly, so watch carefully! Let cool to room temperature before using. Place the nuts in a single layer on a shallow paper plate or double layer of paper towels. Toast the nuts on high power for 4 to 5 minutes per cup, stirring every 1 to 2 minutes to prevent burning and facilitate even browning. This method toasts nuts very quickly, so watch carefully! Let cool to room temperature before using.[image]On the stovetop: When When a recipe calls for a recipe calls for 1 1/4 cup or less of toasted nuts, they can be toasted in a heavy skillet or saute pan on the stovetop. Place whole or chopped nuts in a clean, dry skillet over medium-low heat. Stir constantly or shake the pan until the nuts are slightly colored and aromatic, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from the pan to cool to room temperature before using.To Blanch AlmondsFill a medium-size saucepan three-quarters full of water and bring it to a boil. Add the whole sh.e.l.led almonds and remove the pan from the heat. Let stand for 3 minutes, then rinse the nuts under cold running water. Squeeze the nut kernel out of its loosened brown layer of skin by holding the nut between your thumb and index finger. Let the nuts dry on a layer of paper towels for at least 2 hours or gently oven-dry on a baking sheet in a preheated 300F. oven for 4 to 5 minutes.To Skin and Oven-Dry Pistachio NutsPlace the nuts in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Let the nuts stand for 1 minute, then drain. Turn the nuts out onto a dish towel and rub off the skins. Dry the nuts on a baking sheet in a preheated 300F oven for about 8 minutes. Store in an airtight container in the freezer.To Toastand Skin Hazelnuts or Filberts These nuts have a tough, loose skin that is first removed by toasting. Preheat the oven to 350F. Place the hazelnuts in one layer in a baking pan. Toast for 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the nuts are lightly colored and the skins blister. Wrap the nuts in a dish towel and let them stand for 1 minute. Rub the nuts in a towel to remove the skins. Let cool to room temperature before using. These nuts have a tough, loose skin that is first removed by toasting. Preheat the oven to 350F. Place the hazelnuts in one layer in a baking pan. Toast for 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the nuts are lightly colored and the skins blister. Wrap the nuts in a dish towel and let them stand for 1 minute. Rub the nuts in a towel to remove the skins. Let cool to room temperature before using.To Toast Macadamia NutsMacadamia nuts are most commonly available already salted. They are perfectly fine to use like this, just take care to adjust any other salt required in the recipe. If you want unsalted nuts, place the nuts in a mesh strainer and rinse with cold water. Drain on paper towels and proceed to toast as directed. Preheat the oven to 350F. Place the nuts in one layer in a baking pan. Toast for about 7 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the nuts are lightly colored. Macadamias burn easily, so take care not to overcook. Let cool to room temperature before using.To Peel and Oven- Dry ChestnutsWhile there are vacuum-packed cans of chestnuts in well-stocked grocery stores, the flavor of fresh chestnuts is a real treat in rice dishes. Chestnuts have the reputation of being the most time-consuming nut to peel, but the reward is apparent with the first bite. Place the whole chestnuts in their sh.e.l.ls in a large bowl. Completely cover with boiling water. Let stand for 30 minutes, then drain in a colander. With a paring knife, peel off the brown sh.e.l.l and underlying thin brown skin. Cut the nut into the desired number of pieces. Use as is or oven-dry the pieces on a baking sheet in a preheated 300F oven for 5 to 8 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces.PRESERVED LEMONSPreserved lemons are made by soaking lemons in a brine solution made of lemon juice plus salt, sugar, or a combination of the two until the lemons turn pulpy and soft. They are used as a condiment or flavor accent in Moroccan cuisine. While they may sound exotic, one taste and people sure do get excited about preserved lemons! That's what our colleague Carolyn Jung at the San Jose Mercury News San Jose Mercury News found when she wrote about making preserved lemons, an easy yet fascinating process. Carolyn had attended a cla.s.s in Moroccan cooking taught by cookbook author Kitty Morse, stocked up on salt and Meyer lemons, and then found she was very nearly obsessed with watching the fruit change, day by day, into the tart, pulpy, and addictive preserved lemons. This can take a month or more, but you can speed up the process by chopping or slicing the lemons instead of just slitting them. Some cooks freeze the lemons for several hours first, or boil the filled jars, also to hasten the process. Many recipes say to rinse the salt off the lemons before using and to use only the peels. Carolyn disagrees, and so do we. We like the way preserved lemons add salt as well as a deeply lemony flavor to foods. Just finely chop the lemons and add to a dish (like our Moroccan Brown Rice) during cooking, or at the end. Or use the lemons uncooked, such as in vinaigrettes. found when she wrote about making preserved lemons, an easy yet fascinating process. Carolyn had attended a cla.s.s in Moroccan cooking taught by cookbook author Kitty Morse, stocked up on salt and Meyer lemons, and then found she was very nearly obsessed with watching the fruit change, day by day, into the tart, pulpy, and addictive preserved lemons. This can take a month or more, but you can speed up the process by chopping or slicing the lemons instead of just slitting them. Some cooks freeze the lemons for several hours first, or boil the filled jars, also to hasten the process. Many recipes say to rinse the salt off the lemons before using and to use only the peels. Carolyn disagrees, and so do we. We like the way preserved lemons add salt as well as a deeply lemony flavor to foods. Just finely chop the lemons and add to a dish (like our Moroccan Brown Rice) during cooking, or at the end. Or use the lemons uncooked, such as in vinaigrettes.About 6 to 12 juicy lemons, preferably thin-skinned MeyersKosher saltOne 1-quart gla.s.s jar with a tight-fitting lid1. Wash the lemons and dry them thoroughly. Using a clean dry knife, quarter the lemons, remove any seeds, and trim and discard the ends.2. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of salt in the bottom of the jar. Layer the lemons in the jar, alternating with salt, adding 1 tablespoon of salt for each whole lemon. As you reach the top of the jar, press down on the lemons to cram as many pieces as possible into the jar. As you do this, the lemons will exude their juice. When the jar is tightly packed, the level of juice will have risen to or near the top of the jar. You want the jar to be truly full, so if need be, squeeze in some additional lemon juice. Seal the jar and gently shake it to mix the salt and juice. If you are having trouble submerging the lemons, fill the s.p.a.ce at the top of the jar with a piece of crumpled plastic wrap.3. Place the jar on a countertop out of direct sunlight and shake it gently every day or so. In the first few days, as the lemons begin to soften, they may pack down enough to allow you to add another lemon or two. Do so if you can. The lemons are done when they are truly mushy and the juice is syrupy. This will take a few weeks. Once you begin to use the lemons, store the jar in the refrigerator, where it will keep for several months.TWO RECIPES FOR ENTERTAININGSometimes you need an extra-large batch of rice for a special occasion-a holiday, a birthday party, an open house. Here are two recipes.Rice with Fresh GreensHere is steamed rice, just a little bit special, to serve with grilled fish and chicken. The combination of parsley, mint, and basil is very Italian and ever so good. Remember that, whenever cooking rice to the full capacity of the cooker bowl, the rice on the bottom will be a bit squishy, so a thorough but gentle mixing after the steaming period is imperative.MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 20 to 246 cups long-grain white rice, such as basmati, Texmati, converted, or Carolina7 cups water5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces1 tablespoons salt cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves cup chopped fresh mint leaves cup chopped fresh basil leaves1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water 2 to 4 times, and drain.2. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the water, b.u.t.ter, and salt; swirl just to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Add the herbs to the rice bowl; stir with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon to evenly distribute. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 30 minutes. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 2 hours. Serve hot.Creamy Dill RiceA simple but filling rice with herbs that can be served alongside roast turkey or ham. It is made creamy by the use of sour cream (reduced-fat, including nonfat, varieties are acceptable) stirred in at the very end just before serving.MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker; fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 307 cups long-grain white rice, such as basmati, Texmati, or Carolina9 cups chicken stock6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces1 tablespoon salt1 cup chopped fresh dill cup minced fresh Italian parsley leaves cup minced fresh tarragon leaves3 cups sour creamFreshly ground black pepper1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water 2 to 4 times, and drain.2. Coat the rice cooker bowl with nonstick cooking spray or a film of vegetable oil. Place the rice in the rice bowl. Add the stock, b.u.t.ter, salt, dill, parsley, and tarragon; swirl just to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 30 minutes. Fluff gently but thoroughly with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This rice will hold on Keep Warm for up to 2 hours.4. When ready to serve, stir the sour cream to loosen it, then stir it into the hot rice. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing the pepper grinder.

the family of PILAFS Riz au Beurre Qui's Basmati Pilaf Brown Rice Pilaf Rizau Parmesan Indian Yellow Rice Orange Rice Pilaf Vintner's Rice Tomato-Rice Pilaf Rice Pilaf with Fresh Peas Carrot Basmati Pilaf French Pilaf Riz Persille Rice Pilaf with Fresh Herbs Arroz Negro Green Pilaf with Baby Spinach and Endive Riz a l ' Indienne Brown b.u.t.ter Apricotand Pine Nut Pilaf Riz Oriental Mexican Rice Rice and Vermicelli Pilaf Cla.s.sic Sopa Seca Arroz Verde Arroz Amarillo (Caribbean Yellow Rice ) Thai Curried Rice Aromatic Kalijira Rice Pilaw Fruited Pilaf Lamb Biryani Zucchini and Mung Dal Simple Indian Rice Rice Cooker Paella Vegetable Paella Arrozcon Pollo A pilaf, so to speak, is as old as the hills. Invented in ancient Persia, it is derived from the Turkish word pilau pilau, the method of preparing rice by first cooking it in meat fat or oil to enrich the flavor and keep the grains perfectly separated when cooked, then adding meat or poultry broth for steaming.

Rice, along with spices, incense, cloth, and jewels, was one of the basic commodities traded along the ancient sea route from Egypt down through the Red Sea and between the Arabian Peninsula and India. This maritime highway is known to have been in use by 2500 B.C.

An ancestor of the local wild gra.s.s called nivara nivara, rice had been growing along the Indus River valley for about two thousand years when the first Near East sea traders began their merchant voyages to the ancient world's delta ports. The fertile, silt-rich area, perfect for the grain that needs so much water, runs along the western Indian border from the mountains of Tibet into the Arabian Sea, through the length of present-day Pakistan. It is one of the sites of rice's earliest cultivation, a populated area estimated at 500,000 square miles, and is the basis for India being one of the great rice centers of the world, along with China.

The great Indus River valley culture centered at the archaeological site of Mohenjo-Daro, one of six large cities as old and as sophisticated as the ancient civilization of Mesopotamia and the pyramid builders of Egypt. The inhabitants of Mohenjo-Daro ran their agricultural economy by nature's clock, the monsoon, which helped create an extensive natural irrigation system. At the time, the rice-growing area boasted a concentration of approximately one-quarter of the world's population, each person eating hundreds of pounds of rice per year. Soon rice became a delicious staple in the neighboring Persian Empire, which then introduced the art of rice cultivation to the Babylonians of the Euphrates Valley, the "cradle" of civilization.

Persian pilaw pilaw was a very popular dish, seasoned with anything from bits of lamb, venison, or ostrich, pistachios, and herbs to whole spices, raisins, dates, and figs. It was a favored stuffing for whole baby lamb or eggplant, a vegetable specialty that exists to this day. The hand-gathered stamens of the autumn crocus, saffron, have given us the favored combination of saffron with rice, a culinary masterpiece that has come up through the centuries into Iberian and Italian cooking as well. was a very popular dish, seasoned with anything from bits of lamb, venison, or ostrich, pistachios, and herbs to whole spices, raisins, dates, and figs. It was a favored stuffing for whole baby lamb or eggplant, a vegetable specialty that exists to this day. The hand-gathered stamens of the autumn crocus, saffron, have given us the favored combination of saffron with rice, a culinary masterpiece that has come up through the centuries into Iberian and Italian cooking as well.

Egypt was one of the first cuisines to use Persia's technique for cooking rice, and it spread quickly to Greece (Alexander the Great had brought rice back from his campaigns). Recipes for the fragrant pilaffi pilaffi were recorded in the earliest Greek cookbook, were recorded in the earliest Greek cookbook, Gastrology Gastrology, by the poet Archestratus in 350 B.C. Greek cookbooks have recipes for pilaffi pilaffi with everything from mussels to chicken, along with an extensive repertoire of delicious meatless renditions with simple vegetables or nuts, topped with mounds of fresh sheep or goat yogurt, to be served during the weeks of Lenten fasting. Rolls of stuffed grape leaves, with everything from mussels to chicken, along with an extensive repertoire of delicious meatless renditions with simple vegetables or nuts, topped with mounds of fresh sheep or goat yogurt, to be served during the weeks of Lenten fasting. Rolls of stuffed grape leaves, dolma dolma, are stuffed with lemon, dill, and mint-scented pilaffi pilaffi.

India had a mult.i.tude of rice dishes already in its culinary repertoire by the time of Christ, dictated by the vegetarian diet outlined in the first Hindu Holy Book, the Rig-Veda Rig-Veda. Centuries later, the Moghul Empire of Muslims from Turkey brought their recipe for pilau pilau as they settled in the Ganges Valley. The dish called Sultan's rice immediately caught on in a world where beautiful cooking was a fashionable kingly pursuit. Made with one of the premium rices of the world-long-grain basmati grown in the Himalayan foothills- as they settled in the Ganges Valley. The dish called Sultan's rice immediately caught on in a world where beautiful cooking was a fashionable kingly pursuit. Made with one of the premium rices of the world-long-grain basmati grown in the Himalayan foothills-pullao became a dish fit for royal tables, state occasions, and major religious holidays, often concocted by the king or prince himself. Recipes evolved to include the multilayered became a dish fit for royal tables, state occasions, and major religious holidays, often concocted by the king or prince himself. Recipes evolved to include the multilayered biryani biryani, one of the most complex and subtle variations of the pilaf family.

Persia-the site of today's Iran and sharing the western Indian border-was conquered by the Arabs in the seventh century, and the technique for pilaw pilaw moved with their foreign military campaigns across North Africa and into Spain and Mediter ranean Europe. The Arabs planted rice along the way, wherever it would grow. moved with their foreign military campaigns across North Africa and into Spain and Mediter ranean Europe. The Arabs planted rice along the way, wherever it would grow. Pilaw Pilaw was so tasty that countries subject to any Arab influence quickly a.s.similated the simple recipe as their own, so there is a pilaf to be found from Greece and Egypt to Spain and Provence was so tasty that countries subject to any Arab influence quickly a.s.similated the simple recipe as their own, so there is a pilaf to be found from Greece and Egypt to Spain and Provence The cuisines of eastern Europe, the Austrian Empire, and part of southern Russia, influenced by hundreds of years of Turkish occupation, all have pilaf. Known as rys sumiany rys sumiany, rice sauteed as for a roux until brown, pilaf was a favorite of the old Polish n.o.bility and Hungarian peasants; they ate it alongside spit-roasted meats and game.

Provence is known for its delicious pilafs, although, surprisingly, rice dishes did not become a part of overall French cuisine until the late nineteenth century, after the French Revolution. This was due to the French love of bread as a staple carbohydrate. Larousse Gastronomique Larousse Gastronomique, the French bible of cooking, has a separate heading for pilaf and describes it as "the method of preparing rice originating in the East." French pilafs, riz pilaf riz pilaf, often have the addition of a bouquet garni, a fat bundle of aromatic herbs and parsley that is tied together, set into the liquid after sauteing the grains for flavor, and removed before serving. Favorite renditions include arranging the pilaf around cooked chicken livers or foie gras, or dotting it with slivers of truffle. Rice pilaf with toasted almonds is a traditional Provencal specialty.

The Spanish explorers brought pilaf to the New World along with the wonderful paella (paella is the Spanish word for pilaf ). A full-meal pilaf with some combination of meat (there is a recipe that even includes frog's legs), fish, sh.e.l.lfish, rabbit, poultry, sausage, olives, and vegetables, paella is cooked in its own oversized (at least 12 inches in diameter) shallow iron or copper pan, a is the Spanish word for pilaf ). A full-meal pilaf with some combination of meat (there is a recipe that even includes frog's legs), fish, sh.e.l.lfish, rabbit, poultry, sausage, olives, and vegetables, paella is cooked in its own oversized (at least 12 inches in diameter) shallow iron or copper pan, a paellera paellera. Paella a la Valenciana Paella a la Valenciana is described as a work of art, not just a dish of food. is described as a work of art, not just a dish of food.

After the conquest, Mexico had a steady supply of long-grain rice, imported from the Spanish-occupied Philippines (it was sometimes known as Java rice) to make their l.u.s.ty pilaf, the sopa seca sopa seca, the wonderful first course Mexican "dry soup" in which the rice is scorched by initially frying it with onions and sometimes tomatoes. Anyone traveling in Mexico for the first time and having ordered a bowl of soup, only to get a mound of burnished red-colored rice, has a fond memory of their first sopa seca sopa seca.

In South America, the coastal lowlands of Colombia are perfect for growing rice.Arroz con coco is a pilaf with raisins using is a pilaf with raisins using t.i.tote t.i.tote, coconut oil rendered from fresh coconut milk, made for special occasions and served with turkey, ham, or locally caught grilled pescado pescado-swordfish and talapia-and fried slices of plantain.

With the settling of the American colonies and slave labor, rice seed from Madagascar was planted in the Carolinas and Georgia. Thus named Carolina gold, the beautiful long-grain rice flourished. America had its own rice plantations and the rice grown there was some of the best in the world. African-American, Caribbean, New Orleans, and South Carolina cooks all devised variations of pilaf, often known as a perloo or pulao, with their own regional touches. An early edition of Joy of Cooking Joy of Cooking contains a recipe for Miss Emily's Perloo. Dishes such as hoppin' John (black-eyed peas and rice), Louisiana jambalaya, and Carolina red rice-filling, affordable peasant food at its finest, concocted to keep body and soul together-have become part of America's culinary heritage. The Italian risotto, really a stirred pilaf made from short-grain rice that is deliberately overcooked without a lid on the pan, has also been adopted as a favorite preparation in America. contains a recipe for Miss Emily's Perloo. Dishes such as hoppin' John (black-eyed peas and rice), Louisiana jambalaya, and Carolina red rice-filling, affordable peasant food at its finest, concocted to keep body and soul together-have become part of America's culinary heritage. The Italian risotto, really a stirred pilaf made from short-grain rice that is deliberately overcooked without a lid on the pan, has also been adopted as a favorite preparation in America.

CLICK TO SEE THE BASICS : PILAFIN THE RICE COOKER.

We have provided an all-around selection of pilafs for preparation in your rice cooker. For the best results in the following recipes, we recommend using basmati, white Texmati, Jasmati, or Carolina and Texas long-grain rice, unless otherwise noted. If you like to use Uncle Ben's converted rice, be sure to increase the liquid by to cup per 1 cup of rice to compensate for that rice's longer cooking time.

riz au beurre This is an incredibly easy pilaf. The rice, which must be just plain old long-grain (not jasmine), is sauteed in b.u.t.ter before cooking. If you use converted rice, a Parisian home favorite, be sure to increase the amount of water. A bit more b.u.t.ter is stirred in at serving time and, voila voila!

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 6 to 84 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter2 cups long-grain white rice, such as Carolina or Texmati2 cups water1 teaspoon salt ( teaspoon if using salted b.u.t.ter)Freshly ground black pepper (optional)Soy sauce (optional) 1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the rice. Cook, stirring a few times, until all the grains are evenly coated and hot, about 10 minutes. Add the water and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cover and dot the top of the rice with the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for 2 to 3 hours. Serve hot, pa.s.sing the pepper grinder or a cruet of soy sauce.

qui's basmati pilaf Qui was a Vedantic nun in the early 1960s when she learned the intricacies of cooking basmati rice, a favorite in the ashram kitchen, but unheard-of in American homes at the time. One of her special preparations when she comes to visit Beth is this rice served with Yellow Split Pea Soup with Fresh Lemon poured over it and long pieces of curved b.u.t.ter-fried banana halves on the side. This is a delicious basic pilaf, one you will find yourself making often.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 31 cup white basmati rice2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 cups water teaspoon fine sea salt 1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water two to four times, and drain. The water will be chalky and slightly foamy. Spread the wet rice out with your hands on a clean tea towel on the counter. Let the rice air-dry for at least 1 hour, until cooking time (optional).