MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8RICE2 cups basmati rice2 cups water teaspoon salt1 cup chopped pecans or pistachiosDRESSING cup mayonnaise cup mayonnaise cup plain yogurt cup sour cream cup chutney of your choice1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice2 tablespoons honey2 teaspoons curry powder dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot raspberry vinegarSALAD4 green onions, white parts and some of the green parts, chopped2 stalks celery, chopped1 large tart apple, peeled, cored, and chopped1 cup chopped dried apricotsOne 12-ounce package frozen pet.i.te peas, thawed 1. Prepare the rice: Prepare the rice: Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl and fill with cold water. Swish it around with your fingers. Carefully pour off the water, wash, and drain well a few times until the water runs clear. Add the 2 cups water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Unplug the machine, keep the cover open, and let the rice cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl and fill with cold water. Swish it around with your fingers. Carefully pour off the water, wash, and drain well a few times until the water runs clear. Add the 2 cups water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Unplug the machine, keep the cover open, and let the rice cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl.

2. Preheat the oven to 350F.

3. Place the nuts on a baking sheet and toast just until they begin to color, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool to room temperature, and set aside.

4. Make the dressing: Make the dressing: Place all the dressing ingredients in a food processor and pulse a few times to combine and chop the chutney. Sc.r.a.pe into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate. Place all the dressing ingredients in a food processor and pulse a few times to combine and chop the chutney. Sc.r.a.pe into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate.

5. a.s.semble the salad: a.s.semble the salad: In a medium-size salad bowl, combine the rice, green onions, celery, apple, apricots, peas, and nuts. With a large spatula, combine the salad ingredients with enough of the dressing to lightly coat, reserving any extra dressing in the refrigerator. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve it chilled. It is best served the day it is made, or cover tightly and refrigerate no longer than overnight. In a medium-size salad bowl, combine the rice, green onions, celery, apple, apricots, peas, and nuts. With a large spatula, combine the salad ingredients with enough of the dressing to lightly coat, reserving any extra dressing in the refrigerator. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve it chilled. It is best served the day it is made, or cover tightly and refrigerate no longer than overnight.

autumn rice and wheat berry salad This recipe using wheat berries, wild rice, and two rices comes from friend and prolific food writer Peggy Fallon, who has impeccable taste buds. You will need to make the three different rices in shifts, even the day before, so plan accordingly. This is such a good salad.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 6 to 8WHEAT BERRIES AND CONVERTED RICE cup wheat berriesBoiling water for soaking cup converted rice cup plus 2 tablespoons water teaspoon salt1 cup chopped walnutsDRESSING cup balsamic vinegar1 tablespoon Dijon mustard2 shallots, mincedSaltFreshly ground black pepper cup walnut oil1 cup light olive oilSALAD1 cups room temperature cooked Brown Jasmine Rice Jasmine Rice1 cups room temperature cooked Basic Wild Rice Basic Wild Rice1 cup seeded and chopped red bell pepper1 cup seeded and chopped yellow bell pepper cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves pound fresh sugar snap peas or snow peas, strings removed, blanched for 1 minute in boiling water, and drained 1. Prepare the wheat berries and converted rice: Prepare the wheat berries and converted rice: Place the wheat berries in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak at room temperature for 2 hours. Place the wheat berries in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak at room temperature for 2 hours.

2. Place the converted rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 20 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Unplug the machine, keep the cover open, and let the rice cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl.

3. Preheat the oven to 350F.

4. Place the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast just until they begin to color, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool to room temperature, and set aside.

5. Make the dressing: Make the dressing: In a small bowl or food processor, combine the vinegar, mustard, shallots, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the walnut oil and olive oil and whisk or process until thick. Set aside. In a small bowl or food processor, combine the vinegar, mustard, shallots, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the walnut oil and olive oil and whisk or process until thick. Set aside.

6. a.s.semble the salad: a.s.semble the salad: Place the three rices in a medium-size salad bowl. Drain the wheat berries well and add to the rice. Add the bell peppers and parsley and stir to combine. Toss with enough of the dressing to lightly coat, reserving any extra dressing in the refrigerator. Add the peas and walnuts right before serving the salad at room temperature. This salad is best eaten the day it is made. Place the three rices in a medium-size salad bowl. Drain the wheat berries well and add to the rice. Add the bell peppers and parsley and stir to combine. Toss with enough of the dressing to lightly coat, reserving any extra dressing in the refrigerator. Add the peas and walnuts right before serving the salad at room temperature. This salad is best eaten the day it is made.

barley salad with fresh dill and vegetables This scrumptious salad is adapted from a recipe from Jane Brody's Good Food Book Jane Brody's Good Food Book (Norton, 1985). It is one of our favorite ways to eat barley, a grain noted for its natural cholesterol-reducing qualities. (Norton, 1985). It is one of our favorite ways to eat barley, a grain noted for its natural cholesterol-reducing qualities.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 4BARLEY1 cup pearled barley1 cup water cup plus 2 tablespoons chicken stockPinch of saltVINAIGRETTE cup olive oil cup cider vinegar1 clove garlic, flattenedSaltFreshly ground black pepperSALAD1 large red bell pepper, seeded and diced1 large carrot, coa.r.s.ely grated1 stalk celery, chopped1 medium-size red onion, finely chopped1 bunch radishes, ends trimmed and thinly sliced cup chopped fresh dill cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves 1. Prepare the barley: Prepare the barley: Place the barley in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water, stock, and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the barley steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the barley with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Unplug the machine, keep the cover open, and let the barley cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl. Place the barley in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water, stock, and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the barley steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the barley with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Unplug the machine, keep the cover open, and let the barley cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl.

2. Make the vinaigrette: Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Let stand at room temperature. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Let stand at room temperature.

3. a.s.semble the salad: a.s.semble the salad: Place the barley in a medium-size salad bowl or a decorative refrigerator bowl with a plastic cover. Add the vegetables, dill, and parsley. Remove the garlic from the dressing. Toss the salad ingredients with the dressing to lightly coat. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve it chilled. Though this salad tastes best the day it is made, you can refrigerate it overnight. Place the barley in a medium-size salad bowl or a decorative refrigerator bowl with a plastic cover. Add the vegetables, dill, and parsley. Remove the garlic from the dressing. Toss the salad ingredients with the dressing to lightly coat. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve it chilled. Though this salad tastes best the day it is made, you can refrigerate it overnight.

quinoa tabboule In conversation with a friend in France, Beth was surprised one day when she mentioned tabboule-the Middle Eastern salad made with bulgur-and said that it was very popular in Paris for school lunches. Having made so many variations of the satisfying staple salad over the years, here is one with quinoa sub st.i.tuted for the bulgur. You can also make this recipe subst.i.tuting the same amount of bulgur cracked wheat for the quinoa.

YIELD: Serves 6SALAD1 recipe Basic Quinoa Basic Quinoa, cooled to room temperature pound ripe tomatoes, seeded, if desired, and diced pound cuc.u.mber, peeled, seeded if the seeds are watery, and diced small red onion, thinly sliced and cut into -inch-wide strips cup minced fresh Italian parsley leavesDRESSING cup fresh lemon juice cup olive oilFew drops of Tabasco sauce teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. a.s.semble the salad: a.s.semble the salad: Place the quinoa in a large salad bowl. Add the tomatoes, cuc.u.mber, and onion; toss together. Place the quinoa in a large salad bowl. Add the tomatoes, cuc.u.mber, and onion; toss together.

2. Make the dressing: Make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, Tabasco, and pepper. Pour the dressing over the salad, add the parsley, and stir with a large spoon to combine. Refrigerate the salad, covered, until ready to serve. Serve the tabboule at room temperature. It is best served the day it is made. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, Tabasco, and pepper. Pour the dressing over the salad, add the parsley, and stir with a large spoon to combine. Refrigerate the salad, covered, until ready to serve. Serve the tabboule at room temperature. It is best served the day it is made.

j.a.panese rice and cabbage salad Beth's friend Susie Korngold has been making some version or another of this salad for decades. It consistently shows up at family potlucks and is always a welcome addition. When asked for the recipe, Beth received a card with just the ingredients, no measurements. "You know, I never wrote that down, so I will try to give you an idea from memory," said Susie. "Each time I make it, I change it a little bit." New additions include toasted peanuts, mung bean sprouts, some grated daikon radish, or carrot. Luckily, Beth wrote down the version she had at Susie's parents' 40th wedding anniversary party and here it is. You can use j.a.panese-style medium-grain white rice or brown jasmine, if you like, instead of the short-grain brown.

YIELD: Serves 6SALAD4 cups room temperature cooked medium-grain brown rice head Napa cabbage, cored and shredded1 bunch green onions, white parts and some of the green parts, chopped cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 or 2 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps very thinly sliced2 heaping tablespoons toasted j.a.panese sesame seeds j.a.panese sesame seedsDRESSING cup cold-pressed sesame or vegetable oil (sesame is best)1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or rice vinegarOne 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and pressed through a garlic press2 tablespoons honey3 tablespoons tamari (a thick, strong soy sauce) 1. Make the salad: Make the salad: Place the rice in a medium-size salad bowl. Add the cabbage, green onions, cilantro, and mushrooms and mix well to combine. Place the rice in a medium-size salad bowl. Add the cabbage, green onions, cilantro, and mushrooms and mix well to combine.

2. Make the dressing: Make the dressing: In a small bowl whisk together all the dressing ingredients. Pour the dressing over the rice and vegetables, add the sesame seeds, and stir with a large spoon to combine. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve chilled or at room temperature. You can make this a day ahead and refrigerate it overnight, but it tastes best the day it is made. In a small bowl whisk together all the dressing ingredients. Pour the dressing over the rice and vegetables, add the sesame seeds, and stir with a large spoon to combine. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve chilled or at room temperature. You can make this a day ahead and refrigerate it overnight, but it tastes best the day it is made.

wild rice salad with cranberries and berry vinaigrette This is Beth's most requested salad for catering. It has been made for 10 and for 100, with equal success. The fresh berries in the dressing make it thicker and help it coat the rice. You will be preparing two batches of rice, so plan accordingly; we just make extra basmati, jasmine, or converted rice (the white rice mellows the flavor of the wild rice) and keep it in the freezer, ready to be defrosted and tossed with the other salad ingredients. This can be made the day before to give time to meld the flavors.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8RICE1 cups wild rice3 cups water teaspoon salt1 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped walnutsVINAIGRETTE cup canola or vegetable oil cup red or black raspberry vinegar2 teaspoons Dijon mustard4 to 5 fresh strawberries, rinsed and hulledSaltFreshly ground black pepperSALAD1 cups room temperature cooked white or brown rice1 bunch green onions, white parts and some of the green parts, chopped4 stalks celery, chopped1 cups dried cranberriesTwo 12-ounce packages frozen pet.i.te peas, thawed 1. Prepare the rice: Prepare the rice: Place the wild rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 20 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Unplug the machine, keep the cover open, and let the rice cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl. Place the wild rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 20 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Unplug the machine, keep the cover open, and let the rice cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl.

2. Preheat the oven to 350F.

3. Place the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast until they just begin to color, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool to room temperature, and set aside.

4. Make the vinaigrette: Make the vinaigrette: In a food processor, combine the oil, vinegar, mustard, and strawberries. Process until smooth and slightly thick; if too thin, add another berry or two. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sc.r.a.pe into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate. In a food processor, combine the oil, vinegar, mustard, and strawberries. Process until smooth and slightly thick; if too thin, add another berry or two. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sc.r.a.pe into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate.

5. a.s.semble the salad: a.s.semble the salad: Place the wild rice in a medium-size salad bowl. Add the white or brown rice, green onions, celery, cranberries, peas, and walnuts, stirring to in corporate. With a large spatula, combine the salad ingredients with enough of the vinaigrette to lightly coat, reserving any extra vinaigrette in the refrigerator. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve at room temperature. This can be prepared up to a day ahead. Place the wild rice in a medium-size salad bowl. Add the white or brown rice, green onions, celery, cranberries, peas, and walnuts, stirring to in corporate. With a large spatula, combine the salad ingredients with enough of the vinaigrette to lightly coat, reserving any extra vinaigrette in the refrigerator. Store the salad, covered, in the refrigerator and serve at room temperature. This can be prepared up to a day ahead.

creamy rice salad with fresh fruits Back in the early 1970s, a friend of Beth's was involved with the Vedanta Society, one of the first meditation groups in the United States based on ancient orthodox Indian Hindu philosophy. At the time, the group was based in Berkeley, California. They had evening lectures at different people's homes and after the swami spoke and told parable-like stories based on the principles of Eastern thought, they had tea and dessert. At one of these gatherings, this sweet rice salad was served, almost a simple uncooked rice pudding, a favorite of the swami's. What a delight! It was fresh cooked white rice with whipped cream and mixed fresh fruit-that night a combination of fresh pineapple, mandarin oranges, bananas, and papayas-folded in to make it a delightful and ever-so-slightly heavenly dessert.

YIELD: Serves 63 cups room temperature cooked basmati rice basmati rice2 cups cold heavy cream1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract3 cups chopped or sliced ripe fruits, such as mangos, papayas, bananas, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, pineapple, kiwifruit, Fuyu persimmons, Comice pears, or fresh or canned mandarin oranges (any seasonal combination) 1. Place the rice in a large serving bowl.

2. In a chilled large bowl, whip the heavy cream and vanilla together with an electric mixer set at high speed until soft peaks form and just hold their shape. Fold the whipped cream into the rice with a large rubber spatula until evenly combined. Add the fruit (you want about equal amounts of fruit and rice) and gently fold in. Cover the salad and refrigerate for a few hours. It is best served the day it is made.

PANCAKES.

Pancakes are one of the oldest foods, since they can be baked on a griddle rather than in an oven. Often thought of as only breakfast food, they make a wonderful grain-rich side dish or subst.i.tute for a sandwich. Pancakes are a perfect vehicle for leftover rice; you just stir in some leftover rice for flavor and texture. Here are four of our favorite renditions, all simple beyond belief, and very tasty and filling.

rice pancakes Our dear friend, Washington, D.C. writer Joyce Gemperlein, created these nutritious and savory cakes for her young daughter Jocelyn's breakfast or lunch box. They are tasty hot or cold, and they can even be finger food (that is how Jocelyn eats them).

YIELD: 12 to 14 three-inch pancakes;serves 2 to 42 cups cold cooked white or brown rice2 large eggs2 to 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan or other cheese teaspoon salt, or more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or splash of hot pepper sauce, or more to taste 1. In a medium-size bowl, using a fork, combine all the ingredients until evenly moistened with the egg.

2. Coat a large skillet or griddle with a bit of oil or nonstick cooking spray and heat over medium heat. Drop the batter into the skillet by tablespoonfuls, making pancakes about 3 inches in diameter and smoothing them out with the back of the spoon, if needed. Cook until golden brown and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes per side, turning once. Serve the pancakes hot or cold.

savory wild rice pancakes The husky flavor and rustic texture of wild rice are delightful in these savory dinner pancakes. Beth makes these by the hundreds for special catering dinners and there is never a one left over. Serve with some chutney on the side or gravy drizzled over.

YIELD: 20 three-inch pancakes;serves 4 to 6 cup ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter2 small to medium-size shallots, minced1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour or whole wheat pastry flour1 tablespoon baking powder teaspoon salt3 large eggs1 cup milk1 cups room temperature or cold cooked wild rice 1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium-size skillet over medium heat, add the shallots, and cook, stirring, until softened. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl or food processor, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt, and whisk or process or blend. Add the shallots, eggs, and milk; beat or process just until smooth. The batter will be thin, yet thicker than crepe batter. Stir in the wild rice.

3. Heat a griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat until a drop of water skates over the surface, then lightly grease with b.u.t.ter. Pour the batter onto the griddle, using 2 tablespoons batter for each pancake. Cook until bubbles form on the surface, the edges are dry, and the bottoms are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn once, cooking the second side until golden, about 1 minute. The second side will take half the amount of time to cook as the first side. Serve the pancakes immediately or keep warm in a preheated 200F oven until ready to serve.

leftover risotto pancakes Risotto does not reheat well, so if you have any left over, the best way to eat the day-old Italian rice dish is to make a pancake. Known as risotto al salto risotto al salto in Milan, it is traditionally made into one large pancake, then cut into wedges to serve. This recipe makes two oversized six-inch pancakes. in Milan, it is traditionally made into one large pancake, then cut into wedges to serve. This recipe makes two oversized six-inch pancakes.

You can make the one pancake if you wish in a larger skillet, but the cooking time will increase slightly. The best risotto pancake is cooked slowly to create a nice crust on both sides, so don't rush. Risotto pancakes are good for breakfast or lunch right out of the skillet, or as a room temperature picnic food or snack.

YIELD: 2 pancakes; serves 21 or 2 large eggs, beaten1 cups cold cooked risotto1 to 2 tablespoons tomato paste or tomato sauce, or pinch of minced fresh herb leaves, such as basil, Italian parsley, or marjoram (optional)2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter or olive oil, or a combination3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan or other cheese, for servingFreshly ground black pepper, for serving 1. Depending on the consistency of the risotto, if you like a dry pancake, use 1 egg; if you want more of a frittata, use 2 eggs. Combine the egg and risotto in a medium size bowl and mix well. Add the tomato paste, sauce, or herbs if you want to add some complementary flavoring to the risotto.

2. Heat a small, heavy 6-inch skillet until a drop of water skates over the surface, then add 2 teaspoons of the b.u.t.ter or olive oil, coating the entire surface. Place half of the mixture in the skillet, flattening with the back of the spoon or spatula to make an even pancake that fills the bottom of the skillet. Cook over medium heat until the edges are dry and the bottom turns golden and crusty, about 5 minutes. Loosen the bottom with a spatula and turn once by flipping with the spatula or sliding the pancake onto a small plate and sliding it off the plate to retain the large size.

Add the remaining 2 teaspoons b.u.t.ter or olive oil to the pan, return the pancake to the pan, and cook the second side until golden and crusty, about 5 minute longer. Remove from the pan and cook the second pancake using 2 teaspoons b.u.t.ter for each side.

3. Serve the pancakes immediately, sprinkled with the cheese and some black pepper, keep warm in a preheated 200F oven until ready to serve, or let cool to eat later.

b.u.t.termilk rice breakfast pancakes Leftover rice makes a great American-style breakfast pancake. If you are a pancake lover, consider investing in an electric griddle, so you can cook all the pancakes at one time. We like our pancakes served simply, with luscious grade B pure maple syrup and b.u.t.ter dripping down the sides, but sliced fruit, cottage cheese, or hot applesauce works as well. If you wish to make rice waffles, simply cut back the b.u.t.termilk by cup to make a slightly thicker batter.

YIELD: 12 four-inch pancakes;serves 2 to 42 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoons baking powder1 teaspoon baking sodaLarge pinch of salt2 cups b.u.t.termilk2 large eggs3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted, or vegetable oil1 cup cold cooked white or brown rice 1. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the b.u.t.ter milk, eggs, and b.u.t.ter. Add the b.u.t.ter milk mixture to the dry ingredients, stirring just until combined. Do not overmix; the batter should have small lumps. Stir in the rice. Let the batter rest at room temperature for 5 minutes.

2. Heat a griddle or heavy skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water skates over the surface, then lightly grease with b.u.t.ter. Pour the batter onto the griddle, using a -cup measure for each pancake. Cook until bubbles form on the surface, the edges are dry, and the bottom is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn once, cooking the second side until golden, about 1 minute. The second side will take half the amount of time to cook as the first side. Serve the pancakes immediately or keep warm in a preheated 200F oven until ready to serve.

THE BASICS : FRIED RICE[image]The pan: You don't need a wok to make good fried rice; a good saute pan or cast-iron skillet will do just as well, maybe better. We find a large nonstick skillet the best tool for making fried rice. A 10-inch skillet is large enough to make fried rice for one or two hungry people; a 12-inch skillet is needed to serve three or more. You don't need a wok to make good fried rice; a good saute pan or cast-iron skillet will do just as well, maybe better. We find a large nonstick skillet the best tool for making fried rice. A 10-inch skillet is large enough to make fried rice for one or two hungry people; a 12-inch skillet is needed to serve three or more.[image]Nonstick cooking spray or vegetable oil: A thorough spray of Pam or a similar product is generally enough to keep the rice from sticking to the pan. We usually spray the pan twice. (If you encounter sticking during the cooking, you can always add a few drops of oil.) The more traditional method is to use oil. Let your conscience be your guide, but if your pan has a good nonstick coating, 1 to 2 teaspoons of oil per serving is really enough. If you don't have a nonstick pan, you'll need 2 tablespoons or more. A thorough spray of Pam or a similar product is generally enough to keep the rice from sticking to the pan. We usually spray the pan twice. (If you encounter sticking during the cooking, you can always add a few drops of oil.) The more traditional method is to use oil. Let your conscience be your guide, but if your pan has a good nonstick coating, 1 to 2 teaspoons of oil per serving is really enough. If you don't have a nonstick pan, you'll need 2 tablespoons or more.[image]The rice: Fried rice was invented for leftover cooked rice. Cold cooked rice works best in fried rice dishes because the grains remain separated You can use almost any kind of plain cooked rice. While we recommend the type of rice to use in the ingredient lists, any variety of leftover rice can be subst.i.tuted. Fried rice was invented for leftover cooked rice. Cold cooked rice works best in fried rice dishes because the grains remain separated You can use almost any kind of plain cooked rice. While we recommend the type of rice to use in the ingredient lists, any variety of leftover rice can be subst.i.tuted.Cold, hard rice straight from the refrigerator is just fine and, in fact, is less likely to stick together than fresh cooked rice. One of the secrets to good fried rice is the rice itself: the colder the rice, the better. Use it directly out of the refrigerator or use just-thawed frozen rice that you let rest on the counter for an hour. (Some people freeze cooked rice just for fried rice.) When using cold rice, be sure to break up any clumps with your fingers as you add it to the skillet.If you don't have any cold rice on hand, go ahead and steam some rice in the rice cooker just for your fried rice. Spread the steamed rice in a single layer on a baking sheet and let it cool to room temperature. Place the uncovered baking sheet in the refrigerator for up to eight hours or overnight before using the rice. If necessary, the rice may be used after one hour in the refrigerator, if you run your fingers through it to break it up before using.[image]Aromatics: Sliced green onion (white and green parts) is a popular ingredient in fried rice. Some saute it at the beginning of cooking; some sprinkle it on top at the end. Garlic, too, makes frequent appearances. Be careful not to burn the garlic. Chopped or sliced onion works nicely, too. Sliced green onion (white and green parts) is a popular ingredient in fried rice. Some saute it at the beginning of cooking; some sprinkle it on top at the end. Garlic, too, makes frequent appearances. Be careful not to burn the garlic. Chopped or sliced onion works nicely, too.[image]Vegetables: Quick-cooking vegetables can be added raw. The list includes Napa cabbage, bok choy, fresh or dried (and already reconst.i.tuted) mushrooms, celery, zucchini, green peas (these can be used straight from the freezer), shredded carrot, and many more. For veggies that take longer to cook, such as broccoli or carrots cut into larger pieces, you might want to cook them crisp-tender first. Don't use too many vegetables, or too much of one kind; you don't want to overwhelm the rice. It is amazing how good fried rice can be with just a small amount of vegetables. When adding raw vegetables, you may want to sprinkle on a few teaspoons of water to help them cook. Quick-cooking vegetables can be added raw. The list includes Napa cabbage, bok choy, fresh or dried (and already reconst.i.tuted) mushrooms, celery, zucchini, green peas (these can be used straight from the freezer), shredded carrot, and many more. For veggies that take longer to cook, such as broccoli or carrots cut into larger pieces, you might want to cook them crisp-tender first. Don't use too many vegetables, or too much of one kind; you don't want to overwhelm the rice. It is amazing how good fried rice can be with just a small amount of vegetables. When adding raw vegetables, you may want to sprinkle on a few teaspoons of water to help them cook.[image]Eggs: Scrambled eggs are a very common addition to fried rice. Some people scramble them, remove them from the pan so they don't overcook, and add them back later. Others just clear a s.p.a.ce on one side of the pan (or in the center) by pushing away any ingredients that are already there, pour in the eggs, let them sit till they are about half-set, then toss or scoop the rice on top, folding and scrambling the eggs to break them up and mix them with the rice. It's an easy skill to master. You'll want no more than one egg per person, and less than that is fine. Scrambled eggs are a very common addition to fried rice. Some people scramble them, remove them from the pan so they don't overcook, and add them back later. Others just clear a s.p.a.ce on one side of the pan (or in the center) by pushing away any ingredients that are already there, pour in the eggs, let them sit till they are about half-set, then toss or scoop the rice on top, folding and scrambling the eggs to break them up and mix them with the rice. It's an easy skill to master. You'll want no more than one egg per person, and less than that is fine.[image]Meat and fish: Raw or cooked, many kinds of meat, poultry, fish, and sh.e.l.lfish can be tossed into your fried rice with great results. Something smoked, such as bacon, a bit of smoked sausage, or ham, is nice; the smokiness adds an extra dimension of flavor. Here's where you can use up leftover bits of this or that. Be careful not to overload the rice with meat, though. The rice should always be the most prominent element of the dish. Raw or cooked, many kinds of meat, poultry, fish, and sh.e.l.lfish can be tossed into your fried rice with great results. Something smoked, such as bacon, a bit of smoked sausage, or ham, is nice; the smokiness adds an extra dimension of flavor. Here's where you can use up leftover bits of this or that. Be careful not to overload the rice with meat, though. The rice should always be the most prominent element of the dish.[image]Finishing touches: Finish off your fried rice with nothing more than a dash of salt, if you wish. Or go the next step and add soy sauce and a sprinkle of pepper, or use a couple of teaspoons or more of one of the many savory or spicy sauces on the shelf in the Asian section of your market. Black bean sauce, fish sauce, oyster sauce, chile paste-these or others will change the character of your fried rice. Curry powder is also good. Even ketchup is not unheard-of! Be sure to add your final touches while the rice is still on the stove. You want the seasonings to have a chance to warm up and gently blend with the rice and other ingredients. And, of course, don't go too wild. One type of sauce plus soy sauce, salt, and pepper is probably enough! Finish off your fried rice with nothing more than a dash of salt, if you wish. Or go the next step and add soy sauce and a sprinkle of pepper, or use a couple of teaspoons or more of one of the many savory or spicy sauces on the shelf in the Asian section of your market. Black bean sauce, fish sauce, oyster sauce, chile paste-these or others will change the character of your fried rice. Curry powder is also good. Even ketchup is not unheard-of! Be sure to add your final touches while the rice is still on the stove. You want the seasonings to have a chance to warm up and gently blend with the rice and other ingredients. And, of course, don't go too wild. One type of sauce plus soy sauce, salt, and pepper is probably enough!a note about msg: Many Asian home cooks add a seasoning containing the flavor-enhancer MSG to their fried rice: Many Asian home cooks add a seasoning containing the flavor-enhancer MSG to their fried rice: Ajinomoto Ajinomoto (the j.a.panese name for MSG) is popular, as are Asian bouillon powders or powdered dashis. Feel free to sprinkle in one of these seasonings sparingly, if you wish. We've left them out of our recipes because some people have unpleasant reactions to MSG, and because we find fried rice very tasty without them. (the j.a.panese name for MSG) is popular, as are Asian bouillon powders or powdered dashis. Feel free to sprinkle in one of these seasonings sparingly, if you wish. We've left them out of our recipes because some people have unpleasant reactions to MSG, and because we find fried rice very tasty without them.

the basics:home made STOCKS Chicken Stock Turkey Stock Game Stock White Stock Potager Vegetable Stock Chinese Vegetable Stock Fish Stock Dashi Sharon's Dashi Many of the recipes in this book call for the addition of a stock, a symbol of wholesome, healthful home cooking. A stock is made with a combination of raw, uncooked poultry, meat, or fish; aromatic vegetables; fresh water; and a bouquet garni, a bundle of herbs. These ingredients are simmered together until their essences have been extracted out into the water. Stock provides a depth of flavor not available from using just water. No salt is added so that you can season the final recipe to taste at its completion. Stocks are an important component of rice cookery and especially essential in pilafs and risottos. There's no doubt-homemade is definitely best here. You will never imitate the quality and flavor of homemade stock with a can of broth or a cube.

Making a stock (a word that is often used interchangeably with broth) is really very simple. A few minutes are needed to combine all the ingredients in the pot with enough water just to cover everything, and then it is left alone to simmer for several hours (the exception here are fish stocks, which are prepared in under an hour), until it develops its own sweet aroma. Vegetables from the supermarket produce section are as good as ones harvested from a home garden. Frankly, the simpler the ingredients, the better the stock, so resist throwing all those vegetable sc.r.a.ps into the pot unless you are making a vegetable stock.

While the water is coming to a boil for your stock, prepare your bouquet garni. The combination of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns is a cla.s.sic in Mediterranean herb bouquets. Instead of tossing the herbs into the stock by themselves, the herbs are neatly placed in the center of a 10-inch square of cheesecloth and tied with some kitchen twine. If you don't have any cheesecloth, just gather up the herbs in a small bunch and wrap with twine. A small bouquet garni will suffice in each of the following recipes. You can improvise with any combination of herbs you like-rosemary, sage, marjoram, curly or Italian parsley, even dried mushrooms and a hot little dried chile pepper. When you turn down the heat to a simmer, toss in the bouquet garni. During the final skimming, you will easily be able to discard it easily.

Hardcore stock makers use their "special" stockpot-usually made from stainless steel or anodized aluminum like Calphalon-a pot that is deeper than it is wide. Never use a cheap aluminum pot or cast-iron Dutch oven; your stock will taste very metallic. There are many sizes of stockpots, from small to large. Buy one that reflects the amount of stock you normally make in each batch. The following recipes make small amounts of stock, so a medium-size six-quart capacity stockpot will do nicely and be easy to lift when full.

Once your stock is done simmering, let it cool a bit (ideally to around 160F); be aware, though, that you do not want your stock sitting around at room temperature for any length of time; otherwise, your nice, warm stock becomes a breeding ground for bacteria. Use a small saucepan or large ladle to transfer the still-warm stock to a cheesecloth- lined colander sitting in a larger bowl. Do this procedure over the sink, since during the process of straining there is the chance of splashing. The solids will catch in the colander and, when you lift it out, you can admire your beautiful, clear stock. After straining, refrigerate the stock until cold. The fat will coagulate on top and be easy to remove.

Buy a variety of two- and four-cup freezer containers at the supermarket that stack easily in the freezer; the square ones are the most s.p.a.ce efficient. The recipes in this book call for a variety of stocks, but please note that you can most certainly use what is at hand. Add a bit of salt and pepper and you can savor a bowl of stock on its own or pour it over toasted country bread for a great lunch!

A WORD ON COMMERCIAL STOCKS AND BROTHS.

For the cooks who always wish they had luscious homemade stocks stashed in the freezer, but don't, fear not; here's what we've learned from extensive testing with canned broths.

In adapting your own recipes to the rice cooker, remember that canned broth is intense and salty and can easily overpower other flavors. If a risotto or other dish contains ingredients with delicate flavors-b.u.t.ternut Squash Risotto is one example-try it with half water, half broth, or search out a reduced-sodium or salt-free broth.

In general, you get what you pay for. The cheap brands taste it. Swanson's is available nationwide and is fine, and the new reclosable aseptic packaging is very handy (if you can stand the fact that those juice boxtype containers can't be recycled in most parts of the country). Ready-made frozen commercial stocks have become increasingly available, a specialty food item that is almost an artisan craft, and though they are quite good, they tend to be very expensive.

In many parts of the world, including Italy, dry bouillon powder or cubes (such as Knorr) dissolved in water are essential const.i.tuents of the home pantry, contributing their distinctive flavors to many grain dishes. Bouillon cubes are considered a type of glace glace, or stock that has been reduced to a thick, concentrated ma.s.s. Consomme falls in between and should be thinned with an equal amount of water, if using. Unfortunately, bouillons are all highly salted and often taste artificial in the finished dish. Use these or not, as you prefer, but know that if you use a bouillon broth in recipes calling for homemade or canned, you will definitely taste the difference.

chicken stock If you make only one type of homemade stock, it should be chicken stock. Unsalted chicken stock is a cornerstone of good cooking and is called for in many recipes in this book. While many stocks call for a reduction, or boiling down, to concentrate the flavor, we have found that the best stock for cooking rice and grains in the rice cooker is more delicate in flavor and color. Many cooks use only the acc.u.mulated sc.r.a.p parts (kept in the freezer) and make great stock; we like cutting up a whole chicken and adding the extra parts. Julie makes chicken stock in the pressure cooker; it is done after 35 minutes of pressure cooking.

YIELD: About 2 quarts5 pounds chicken backs, necks, wings, and carca.s.ses, or one 5- to 7-pound chicken, cut up and fat removed (no liver)2 medium-size yellow onions, cut into quarters1 medium-size carrot, cut into chunks5 stalks celery, with leaves4 sprigs fresh Italian parsley, with stems10 black peppercorns 1. Place the chicken in a large stockpot. Add water to cover by 2 inches. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Skim off the foam on the surface. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 2 hours, skimming as necessary.

2. Add the vegetables and peppercorns, cover, and simmer for 2 hours longer. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid.

3. Pick the meat off the chicken, then discard the skin, bones, and vegetables. Reserve the meat for soup, salad, or another purpose, if desired. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.

turkey stock Since roast turkey is so popular during the winter holidays, there always seems to be this big, old carca.s.s all picked over a day or two after the big meal. Don't waste it, and use it as soon as possible! It is perfect for breaking up (separate the ribs from the backbone; it won't fit into the pot whole) and cooking into an aromatic stock that seems to make itself.

YIELD: About 1 quarts3 pounds roast turkey carca.s.s bones with some meat left on, broken up, including the wings and skin1 yellow onion, chopped1 leek, white and green parts, washed well and chopped1 carrot, cut into chunks3 stalks celery, with leaves, chopped6 sprigs fresh parsley, with stems1 bay leaf2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme6 black peppercorns 1. Place the turkey bones in a large stockpot. Add water to cover by 3 inches. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Skim off any foam that floats to the surface. Add the vegetables, herbs, and pepper corns. Reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and simmer for 3 hours.

2. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Discard the bones and meat. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.

game stock Game bird or rabbit stock is very much like poultry stock in flavor and viscosity. It is quite delicate and very delicious in pilafs and risottos. It is a must if a member of your family is a hunter, and game stock is a great way to use up the extra tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, flesh, and bones after boning the b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Since most game birds are quite small, you can acc.u.mulate bones by keeping them in resealable plastic bags in the freezer. While here you will brown the vegetables first, never brown game or poultry bones; they will lose a lot of flavor. This stock is best made with only one type of game at a time to avoid muddling the flavor.

YIELD: About 2 quarts3 tablespoons olive oil2 yellow onions, cut into quarters2 carrots, cut into chunks4 stalks celery, with leaves5 pounds duck, pheasant, or small game bird (like chukar or quail) backs, necks, wings, and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, or rabbit carca.s.s and bones3 sprigs fresh parsley, with stems1 bay leaf2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme6 black peppercorns 1. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring, until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the game, herbs, peppercorns, and water to cover by 2 inches. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 3 hours, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface a few times with a large spoon.

2. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Discard the bones and meat. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.

white stock White stock is made with veal and chicken bones, making a much more light-colored and delicately flavored stock than one made with beef. It is the savory delight of the country kitchen and can be used in place of chicken stock in recipes. Beth buys chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s for dinner, bones them herself, and keeps the raw bones in plastic freezer bags until making the stock. This is a recipe adapted from the 1957 edition of The Gourmet Cookbook The Gourmet Cookbook compiled by the original publisher and creator of the magazine devoted to good eating, Earle R. MacAusland. compiled by the original publisher and creator of the magazine devoted to good eating, Earle R. MacAusland.

YIELD: About 2 quarts3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 yellow onion, cut into quarters1 carrot, cut into chunks1 leek, white and green parts, washed well and chopped3 stalks celery, with leaves2 veal knuckles4 to 6 chicken half-breast bones (left over from boning breast fillets)4 sprigs fresh parsley, with stems6 black peppercorns 1. In a large stockpot, melt the b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, leek, and celery and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes. Add the veal knuckles, chicken bones, parsley, peppercorns, and water to cover by 2 inches. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 3 hours, skimming off the foam that rises to the surface.

2. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Discard the bones and solids. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.

potager vegetable stock If you thought that a pure vegetable stock is a new invention by vegetarians, think again. Known as fond de legumes fond de legumes in French, vegetable stock is a wonderfully old-fashioned aromatic combination of mild herbs and vegetables, with a decidedly neutral taste. When evaluating a vegetable stock recipe, note that vegetables that have a.s.sertive flavors-cabbage, turnips, green peppers, broccoli, and cauliflower, should be avoided; they will overpower your stock. Potatoes make a stock murky from their starch, and anything like beets or tomatoes will instantly tint your stock a brilliant, earthy color, which is usually undesirable. Use fresh vegetables; old vegetables will not make such a nice tasting stock. in French, vegetable stock is a wonderfully old-fashioned aromatic combination of mild herbs and vegetables, with a decidedly neutral taste. When evaluating a vegetable stock recipe, note that vegetables that have a.s.sertive flavors-cabbage, turnips, green peppers, broccoli, and cauliflower, should be avoided; they will overpower your stock. Potatoes make a stock murky from their starch, and anything like beets or tomatoes will instantly tint your stock a brilliant, earthy color, which is usually undesirable. Use fresh vegetables; old vegetables will not make such a nice tasting stock.

YIELD: About 2 quarts 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 3 medium-size yellow onions, chopped 2 leeks, white and green parts, washed well and chopped 1 medium-size carrot, cut into chunks 1 medium-size parsnip, peeled and cut into chunks 1 small bunch celery, with leaves, stalks pulled apart and bottoms trimmed 2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms 1 or 2 ears fresh corn (optional), husked, kernels cut off and reserved for another dish, and cobs broken into pieces 6 sprigs fresh parsley, with stems Few strands fresh chives or green onions 1 head garlic, unpeeled and cut in half horizontally 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs fresh thyme or marjoram or 1 teaspoon dried thyme or marjoram 6 black peppercorns 1. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil and b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the onions, leeks, carrot, parsnip, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms, corn, parsley, chives, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns. Add water to cover by 2 inches. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 1 hours.

2. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 3 to 4 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.

chinese vegetable stock This is a variation on the plain vegetable stock, which I find very aromatic and perfect for making rice that will be served with prawns or chicken, even a Chinese-style paella. The addition of fresh-tasting cilantro (also known as Chinese parsley or fresh coriander), a few broken points of licorice-scented star anise (a favorite seasoning for Asian broths), and slices of spicy fresh ginger make a stock that is still quite delicately flavored. Aromatic Szechuan peppercorns, used in place of black peppercorns, are the dried berries of a shrub rather than a true pepper. They are pan-toasted to bring out their flavor and fragrance.

YIELD: About 2 quarts3 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil2 yellow onions, chopped1 bunch green onions, white and green parts, chopped1 head garlic, unpeeled and cut in half horizontally6 thin slices fresh ginger, unpeeled3 carrots, cut into chunks1 small bunch celery, with leaves, stalks pulled apart and bottoms trimmed1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms3 tablespoons soy sauce1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns6 sprigs fresh cilantro, with stems star anise1 large or 2 small dried shiitake mushrooms teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. In a large stockpot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the yellow onions, green onions, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Add the carrots, celery, fresh mushrooms, soy sauce, and water to cover by 2 inches. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat.

2. Meanwhile, place the peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan frequently to prevent burning, until they smell fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add to the stock along with the cilantro, anise, dried mushrooms, and white pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 1 hours, partially covered, skimming off any foam that comes to the surface.

3. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 3 to 4 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.

fish stock Fish stock is very fast to make; only about half an hour of simmering is needed to get a nicely flavored stock. Be sure to use only the bones of mild white fish, not oily fish like salmon, or else the stock will be too strong. A good alternative to homemade fish stock is to use one part bottled clam juice mixed with two parts chicken broth.

YIELD: About 1 quartsHeads and bones of 2 red snappers or other mild white fish (about 2 pounds), rinsed in cold water and gills removed2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 medium-size yellow onion, sliced1 leek, white and green parts, washed well and chopped3 stalks celery, with leaves, roughly chopped1 cup dry white wine small bunch fresh parsley, with stems2 bay leaves2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme10 black peppercorns 1. In a stockpot, combine the bones and b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat. Cover and steam for about 4 minutes. Add the vegetables, cover, and steam for another 4 minutes. Add water to cover by 2 inches, the wine, parsley, bay leaves, thyme, and peppercorns. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook at a rapid simmer for about 35 minutes.

2. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.

dashi Dashi is a quick all-purpose quick clear stock that is the heart of j.a.panese-style cooking. Made properly it is described as tasting of the sea. It calls for kombu seaweed (also called kombu), which is a thick dried kelp that is an essential ingredient in j.a.panese broths, and bonito flakes, pale pink shavings made from dried bonito fish fillets. Look for the seaweed and bonito flakes in an Asian grocery or the Asian food section of a well-stocked supermarket. Dashi is so quick to make that you can make it fresh each time you need it. Beth likes her version with one dried shiitake mushroom added.

YIELD: About 1 quart 4 cups cold water 1 sheet (1 ounce) kombu seaweed 3 to 4 inches square, wiped clean with a damp cloth and soaked in cold water in the refrigerator overnight cup dried bonito flakes 1. Place the water in a medium saucepan. Add the kombu. Bring to a low boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low (if the water continues to boil, the stock will not be totally clear) and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the bonito flakes and stir. Turn off the heat and let stand for 2 minutes to allow the bonito flakes to settle. Skim off any foam.

2. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the dashi through to strain it. Discard the kombu and bonito flakes. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 3 days, but is best used the day it is made.

sharon's dashi Here is a simpler stock made with only kombu (the flat seaweed covered with a whitish powder).

YIELD: 4 cups One 1-inch square dashi kombu 4 cups water Wipe the kombu clean with a damp cloth, but don't remove the white powder. Place in a saucepan with the water. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and let stand for at least 5 minutes before using.

online and mail-order RESOURCES The following all-purpose online and mail-order resources are a.s.sembled to give you the ability to shop for a wide variety of the best quality rices and whole grains, many of which are difficult to find even in the best stocked stores. Goldmine Natural Food Company and Bob's Red Mill are becoming bigger names in the mail-order grain business, and King Arthur's Baker's Catalogue and Walnut Acres are our favorite one-stop shopping resources.

Look for heirloom whole grains (such as buckwheat groats and hull-less barley), ancient grains (such as quinoa and spelt), hard-to-find regionally grown rice (such as Wild Pecan rice, Della basmati, and Bhutanese red rice), custom cereal and mixed grain blends, and Asian or Indian rices and ingredients. Most sources with equipment carry at least one type of rice cooker machine. Call the customer service departments or check online for complete catalogs and price lists.

Birkett Mills 16 Main Street Penn Yan, NY 14527 (315) 536-3311.

www.thebirkettmills.com Buckwheat is readily available in natural food stores, in the supermarket with kosher foods, and by mail order. Birkett Mills is the major processor and source of the best buckwheat products sold in the United States today. Their buckwheat groats, grits, and kasha are marketed under the trademark of Pocono.

Bob's Red Mill 5209 SE International Way Milwaukee, OR 97222 (503) 654-3215.

www.bobsredmill.com One of Beth's favorite sources for cornmeal and whole grains, available in almost a staggering a.s.sortment. Every bean you might want to cook, from chana dal chana dal and cannellini beans to pet.i.te French green lentils, soldier beans, and Tongues of Fire beans, used for making Portuguese recipes. Buckwheat, bulgur, brown rice, farina, polenta and organic cornmeals, couscous and granola, millet, long- and short-grain white and brown basmati, sushi rice and short-grain white rice, wild rice, rye berries, spelt berries, and sea salt. Try Bob's organic stone-ground Scottish oatmeal! and cannellini beans to pet.i.te French green lentils, soldier beans, and Tongues of Fire beans, used for making Portuguese recipes. Buckwheat, bulgur, brown rice, farina, polenta and organic cornmeals, couscous and granola, millet, long- and short-grain white and brown basmati, sushi rice and short-grain white rice, wild rice, rye berries, spelt berries, and sea salt. Try Bob's organic stone-ground Scottish oatmeal!

b.u.t.te Creek Mill P.O. Box 561 Eagle Point, OR 97524 (503) 826-3531.

www.b.u.t.tecreekmill.com Great stone-ground cornmeals, which come in different grinds, from an old water-powered stone mill. A treat!

The California Press 6200 Washington Street Yountville, CA 94599 (707) 944-0343.