MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off or fuzzy logicCYCLE: RegularYIELD: About 35 dolmas; serves 8 to 10 as an appetizer, 6 as a main dish FILLING FILLING1 pound lean ground lamb cup long-grain white rice cup minced onion cup dark raisins cup slivered blanched almonds1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint leaves or 1 teaspoon dried mint leaves, crumbled1 teaspoons salt teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon freshly ground black pepperDOLMAS1 jar (8 to 10 ounces) preserved grape leaves2 tablespoons olive oil2 cloves garlic2 to 3 sprigs fresh mint (optional)Cold plain yogurt, for serving 1. Make the filling: Make the filling: In a large bowl, gently blend the lamb, rice, onion, raisins, almonds, mint, salt, cinnamon, allspice, and pepper. You can do this with your hands or with a fork or mixing spoon, but take care not to mash the meat. In a large bowl, gently blend the lamb, rice, onion, raisins, almonds, mint, salt, cinnamon, allspice, and pepper. You can do this with your hands or with a fork or mixing spoon, but take care not to mash the meat.

2. Remove the grape leaves from the jar and carefully unroll the stack. Gently rinse the grape leaves with cool water and allow them to drain. Cover the bottom of the rice cooker bowl with 1 or 2 grape leaves. This is a good use for any leaves that tore as you removed them from the jar.

3. Make the dolmas: Make the dolmas: To stuff the grape leaves, put 1 leaf on a plate, vein side up, stem end nearest you. Place about 1 tablespoon of filling on the center of the leaf and use your fingers to gently shape it into a little log, arranged horizontally across the leaf. Fold both sides of the leaf in over the filling, then roll up the leaf. Place the rolled leaf, seam side down, in the bottom of the rice cooker bowl. Continue to stuff and roll leaves until you run out of filling. Arrange the dolmas in neat layers in the rice bowl. Top with the olive oil, garlic, and mint sprigs, if using. To stuff the grape leaves, put 1 leaf on a plate, vein side up, stem end nearest you. Place about 1 tablespoon of filling on the center of the leaf and use your fingers to gently shape it into a little log, arranged horizontally across the leaf. Fold both sides of the leaf in over the filling, then roll up the leaf. Place the rolled leaf, seam side down, in the bottom of the rice cooker bowl. Continue to stuff and roll leaves until you run out of filling. Arrange the dolmas in neat layers in the rice bowl. Top with the olive oil, garlic, and mint sprigs, if using.

4. Cover the dolmas with a small, heavy, heatproof plate to keep them from unrolling during the cooking. Add water to the rice cooker bowl, pouring around the plate to cover. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. Set a timer for 45 minutes. Add more water as necessary to keep the dolmas covered during the cooking time. Test for doneness, the dolmas should be tender; cook a bit longer if they are not.

5. When the timer sounds, turn off the cooker and allow the leaves to cool somewhat in the liquid before removing them.

6. Serve the dolmas warm or at room temperature, with plain yogurt for dipping.

dolmas with figs and sun-dried tomatoes These are the most intensely flavored dolmas we have ever eaten. Five cups sounds like a lot of chopped onion, but don't skimp. Their long simmer in fragrant olive oil leaves the onion soft and mild-a perfect complement to the tang of the tomatoes and gritty sweetness of the figs. This recipe is from Washington, D.C., freelance writer Joyce Gemperlein, a friend from her days at the San Jose Mercury News San Jose Mercury News, where she was both food editor and the author of a wildly popular food column in the Sunday magazine.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off or fuzzy logicCYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regularYIELD: Serves 10 to 12FILLING1 cup extra virgin olive oil5 cups finely chopped onion (about 5 or 6 large onions)3 tablespoons pine nuts1 cup long-grain white rice cup minced dehydrated sun-dried tomatoes (not marinated)3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon ground cloves3 tablespoons chopped dried figs cup hot water6 tablespoons fresh lemon juiceSalt1 jar (8 to 10 ounces) preserved grape leaves, rinsed and drained 1. Make the filling. Set the cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place 3.4 cup of the olive oil in the rice cooker bowl. When hot, add the onion and pine nuts, stirring to combine with a plastic or wooden rice paddle or wooden spoon. Close the cover and cook for about 20 minutes.

Stir in the rice, close the cover, and cook for about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, close the cover, and cook for a few more minutes. Stir in the herbs, spices, and figs. Add the hot water, 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice, and salt to taste; stir to combine. Close the cover and let the cycle complete.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Open the cover and fluff the rice with a plastic or wooden rice paddle or wooden spoon. Transfer the filling to a bowl and let cool. Meanwhile, wash the rice cooker bowl and set aside.

3. Stuff the grape leaves as directed in the recipe recipe until you have used up all of the filling. Place some unused leaves on the bottom of the rice cooker bowl and arrange the stuffed dolmas side by side in layers. Mix 1 cup water, a little salt, and the remaining cup olive oil and pour over the dolmas. Place a small heatproof plate over them to keep them in place. Close the cover and set the cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Set a timer for 45 minutes. Check for doneness; the leaves should be tender. You may have to add water if it cooks away. until you have used up all of the filling. Place some unused leaves on the bottom of the rice cooker bowl and arrange the stuffed dolmas side by side in layers. Mix 1 cup water, a little salt, and the remaining cup olive oil and pour over the dolmas. Place a small heatproof plate over them to keep them in place. Close the cover and set the cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Set a timer for 45 minutes. Check for doneness; the leaves should be tender. You may have to add water if it cooks away.

4. When the dolmas are done, open the rice cooker and transfer the rice bowl to a heatproof surface. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons lemon juice and let the dolmas cool, uncovered, in their liquid. Drain off the liquid and refrigerate. These will keep up to 1 week, if tightly covered. Serve at room temperature.

TAMALES.

Tamales are the epitome of Mexican food and one of the cla.s.sic tastes of the Hispanic kitchen. Tamales are "mother" food. The dough is made from masa harina or masa flour, ground corn that has been soaked in lime to make the corn kernel softer and more cohesive than regular cornmeal. It is the flour used to give tortillas and tamales that wonderful strong corn flavor that is so characteristic. The dough is made by kneading the masa harina with fat into a dough called masa.

Fillings for tamales are often made from shredded chicken or pork flavored with chile and spices, but once you become familiar with tamales, or have traveled in Mexico, you can find as many meat or vegetable fillings as there are cooks. One of the most luscious and satisfying fillings is made from fresh corn, green chiles, and cheese, but other fillings include beans, pumpkin, quinoa, diced cooked potatoes, mushrooms, roasted peppers, and shrimp. There are versions with fruit, coconut, and nuts, although savory ones are the most common. Tamales are little individual packages of filling and dough wrapped in dried corn husks, then steamed. You can also use fresh banana leaves or fresh corn husks for wrapping, if available. Your choice of wrapping contributes to the flavor of the tamale, serves as part of the covering during storage, and keeps the tamale warm while serving. Tamales can be perfectly steamed by laying them down tightly side by side (not standing up; the insides of the tamale will drain out during the steaming into the water) in the steamer baskets of the large 10-inch rice cooker, well above the simmering water bath.

Tamales were made by the Aztec Indians and served for religious celebrations, but most of the North and South American Indians have steamed cornmeal breads. Today, tamales are an essential food for Christmas holiday parties, weddings, fiestas, and family gatherings among Mexican-Americans. One of Beth's favorite feasting memories is of a Christmas Day brunch at her friend chef Oscar Mariscal's house. Home made tamales, guacamole, and fresh salsa were laid out picnic style on the living room floor, complete with lace tablecloth and silver candelabra. Consider it an honor being invited to a tamalada tamalada, the tamale fest where a group of family and friends make tamales together.

Tamales have a reputation for being tricky and time-consuming. The tricky part is mastering the technique for rolling and tying them, and the time-consuming part is that everything is accomplished in a logical sequence over a few days. Making tamales is a task often done by groups of seasoned tamale veterans, where the atmosphere is spontaneous and jocular. It is an opportunity to make dozens of tamales, which keep well in the freezer.

The Tamale Schedule 1. a.s.semble the ingredients and purchase pure masa (wet masa dough) or dried masa harina (the flour) from a Mexican grocery or tortilla factory.

2. The day before making the tamales, make the meat filling and sauce. If you are making a vegetable filling, the filling and a.s.sembly can happen on the same day. Prepare the desired tamale filling according to your recipe. Place the filling in a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

3. The day of making the tamales, start by soaking the corn husks. These come in plastic packages available in specialty food stores or the Latin food section of your super market. Carefully remove the brittle husks from their packages and separate the individual husks; there may be dust and grit. You will usually be using 2 husks per tamale (plan on 3 to 5 tamales per person, depending on the size), so plan on a few extra in case some are too small. Place the husks in a large bowl or the sink and cover with hot water; put a plate on top to keep the husks submerged. Soak for 1 to 3 hours, until the husks have absorbed the water and are pliable. Drain in a colander and lay out on layers of clean tea towels or paper towels. Tear a few of the husks into long, thin strips for use as ties if you're not using twine.

4. Prepare the masa dough according to your recipe. While masa tamale dough is best used the day it is made, it can also rest overnight, covered, in the refrigerator, then be resoftened by whipping it in a food processor or electric mixer. Use home-rendered or top-quality lard, never hydrogenated manteca manteca, the lard sold in red boxes in the supermarket; it has no flavor. In place of lard, you can use a combination of b.u.t.ter and vegetable shortening.

5. Fill and roll the tamales according to your recipe.

6. Steam the tamales. If using a metal rack instead of steaming baskets, place the rack in the rice cooker bowl. Fill the bowl with at least 2 inches and no more than 5 inches of water. If using the rack, the water should come to just below the rack; you do not want the rack submerged in the boiling water. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. Place the tamales in single layers in the top and bottom steamer baskets, or on the rack. It is important that the tamales do not touch the water during steaming, or they will be soggy. There should be some s.p.a.ce between the rack or baskets and the water to provide enough room to create the steam for cooking.

Lay the tamales, seam side down, tightly side by side (rather than standing them up-right) to prevent them from absorbing too much steam and getting soggy. If there is a lot of extra s.p.a.ce around the sides, pack with extra corn husks. Cover the tamales with a layer of 4 or 5 corn husks. Set the second steamer basket on top, filled in the same manner. When the water comes to a boil, place the baskets in the rice cooker and close the cover. Set a timer for 1 hour; the tamales will steam for 1 to 1 hours, depending on their size. Make sure to check the water level periodically and refill as necessary by pouring in hot water on the sides of the tamales, never directly over them. This is important since the tamales will taste scorched if the water evaporates.

After 1 hour, remove a tamale with metal tongs and peel back the husk to check for doneness. Or you can pierce the tamale with a bamboo skewer. The dough should be firm and no longer sticky or mushy, and separate easily from the husk wrapping. Break off a section of dough to check the filling. Using metal tongs, remove the tamales from the basket. Let fresh tamales rest for 15 minutes at room temperature before serving to set the dough and meld the flavors.

7. The tamales can be cooled in the steamer baskets, then stored in zipper-top plastic bags in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. You can freeze the cooked tamales or even freeze the raw tamales for up to 1 month and steam later before serving (after thawing them overnight in the refrigerator in their wrappings).

8. To reheat cooked tamales, fill the rice cooker bowl with 5 inches of hot water and bring to a boil. Place the tamales in the steamer basket, close the cover, and steam for 15 to 20 minutes. You can also micro wave individual tamales in their wrappers for 1 minute on high.

CLICK TO SEE FILLING VARIATIONS.

jacquie's rancho tamales This exceptional recipe for tamales comes from food writer and California rancho cooking expert Jacquie McMahan, our very own tamale princess. Rancho tamales are the grandes grandes of the genre-nice and big. You will be buying freshly ground masa, which is a wet dough, rather than masa harina, the flour that needs to be reconst.i.tuted before making it into dough. Be sure to buy your masa as fresh as you can get it, not of the genre-nice and big. You will be buying freshly ground masa, which is a wet dough, rather than masa harina, the flour that needs to be reconst.i.tuted before making it into dough. Be sure to buy your masa as fresh as you can get it, not masa preparada masa preparada-the already prepared tamale dough, which is often in similar packaging, as it already has cheap lard and seasonings added; read the label carefully. You can get fresh masa in a specialty market, but some supermarkets carry fresh masa during the Christmas holidays. Set aside two days for preparation so that all you have to do is cook the tamales when you want to serve them. You will be using the rice cooker to steam the dried chiles for the sauce, as well as for cooking the finished tamales.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: 30 large tamalesFILLING3 pounds boneless pork b.u.t.t, trimmed of most of the fat2 tablespoons vegetable oil1 large yellow onion, cut into quarters2 cloves garlic, cut in half1 tablespoon dried oreganoFreshly ground black pepperCHILE SAUCE15 dried California or New Mexico chilesAbout 1 cups water2 tablespoons vegetable oil or lard2 tablespoons all-purpose flour1 clove garlic, minced1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon cider vinegar2 teaspoons dried oregano1 teaspoon c.u.min seedsFOR MAKING THE TAMALES2 packages wide dried corn husks1 cups pitted black olivesDOUGH3 cups fresh leaf lard (1 pounds), or a combination of 1 cups vegetable shortening and 1 cups (3 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter, softened cup fruity olive oil4 pounds freshly ground masa (not masa preparada masa preparada)2 tablespoons fine sea salt cup beef stock2 teaspoons baking powder 1. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Make the filling: Make the filling: Pat the pork b.u.t.t dry with paper towels. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat and brown the pork on all sides. Cover with cold water and add the onion, garlic, oregano, and pepper. Put on the lid and bake for 2 hours. Pat the pork b.u.t.t dry with paper towels. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat and brown the pork on all sides. Cover with cold water and add the onion, garlic, oregano, and pepper. Put on the lid and bake for 2 hours.

3. Let the pork b.u.t.t cool for 1 hour in its broth. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid, and cut the meat into cubes. Set aside in the refrigerator until needed.

4. Make the chile sauce: Make the chile sauce: Using kitchen shears, cut off the chile stems and cut the chiles in half. Shake out and discard the seeds. Fill the rice cooker bowl with 2 to 5 inches of water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. Place the chiles in the steamer basket. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer basket in the rice cooker and close the cover. Steam the chiles for 30 minutes to soften them. Using kitchen shears, cut off the chile stems and cut the chiles in half. Shake out and discard the seeds. Fill the rice cooker bowl with 2 to 5 inches of water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. Place the chiles in the steamer basket. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer basket in the rice cooker and close the cover. Steam the chiles for 30 minutes to soften them.

5. Place the warm chiles in a blender or food processor and puree in batches, adding about cup water to each batch to liquify. Set aside cup of the chile puree in a separate container and refrigerate, covered, for use in the tamale dough later.

6. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and sprinkle in the flour. Brown the flour, stirring constantly, to a light golden roux, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the chile puree, garlic, salt, vinegar, oregano, and c.u.min seeds. If the sauce is too thick, thin it with more water or a bit of reserved cooking liquid from the meat. Simmer for 10 minutes over medium-low heat. Add the meat and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature, then transfer to a covered container and refrigerate until tamale-making time.

7. The next day, remove the corn husks from the package and soak them in a sink filled with hot water for 30 minutes. Choose the widest and longest husks and rinse off any corn silk. Drain the husks on several layers of paper towels.

8. Make the dough: Make the dough: In a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whip the lard until it looks like fluffy b.u.t.ter, dribbling in the olive oil when it is whipped. Reduce to low speed and add dollops of masa so that it is slowly incorporated. Stir the salt into the stock and drizzle it into the dough. Increase the speed to medium and whip for 3 minutes. To test if the dough is made properly, drop teaspoon of batter into a gla.s.s of cold water; if it floats to the top of the water, it is nice and light. If it sinks, continue to whip the dough for another few minutes. Add the reserved cup chile puree, which will turn the dough rose-pink. On low speed, sprinkle in the baking powder. In a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whip the lard until it looks like fluffy b.u.t.ter, dribbling in the olive oil when it is whipped. Reduce to low speed and add dollops of masa so that it is slowly incorporated. Stir the salt into the stock and drizzle it into the dough. Increase the speed to medium and whip for 3 minutes. To test if the dough is made properly, drop teaspoon of batter into a gla.s.s of cold water; if it floats to the top of the water, it is nice and light. If it sinks, continue to whip the dough for another few minutes. Add the reserved cup chile puree, which will turn the dough rose-pink. On low speed, sprinkle in the baking powder.

9. a.s.semble the tamales: a.s.semble the tamales: To form the tamales, spread about cup of the tamale dough inside the curve of a husk, leaving a -inch border along one side. Place a spoonful of the filling on top and 2 olives in the center. Fold the sides of the dough into the center. Spread 2 tablespoons more of the dough on a second husk and wrap it around the filled tamale. Tie off both ends with a piece of kitchen twine about 6 inches long. Continue to fill and wrap individual tamales. You will make about 30. To form the tamales, spread about cup of the tamale dough inside the curve of a husk, leaving a -inch border along one side. Place a spoonful of the filling on top and 2 olives in the center. Fold the sides of the dough into the center. Spread 2 tablespoons more of the dough on a second husk and wrap it around the filled tamale. Tie off both ends with a piece of kitchen twine about 6 inches long. Continue to fill and wrap individual tamales. You will make about 30.

10. Fill the rice cooker bowl with 2 to 5 inches of water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. Arrange the tamales in the steamer baskets, 15 in each one, laying them side by side (not standing up), touching each other (don't worry if you fit fewer). Cover the tamales with a layer of 4 or 5 corn husks. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer baskets in the cooker and close the cover. Set a timer for 1 hour and steam the tamales. Check for doneness. Using tongs, remove one tamale and pull back the husk. If it pulls away easily, it is done; if it sticks, continue to steam in 10-minute intervals.

11. When fully cooked, transfer the tamales to a serving platter with a pair of tongs. Allow the tamales to rest for 15 minutes before serving. See steps 7 and 8 of The Tamale Schedule section for storage and reheating instructions.

green corn tamales While your mother might have bragged about her meat loaf, Mexican-American grandmothers do the same about their tamales. Inspired by Jacquie McMahan, this is a vegetarian tamale. The dough is made with masa harina, the dried hominy corn flour that is usually a.s.sociated with tortilla making, although tamales take a coa.r.s.er grind. It is also made with oil in lieu of the lard. They are filled with zucchini, green chiles, Monterey Jack cheese, and corn. Serve hot with some crema doble crema doble (Mexican sour cream) or sour cream and salsa. (Mexican sour cream) or sour cream and salsa.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: 24 tamalesFILLING1 cup roasted and peeled green Anaheim or New Mexico chiles or two 7-ounce cans whole roasted green chiles cup water3 pounds zucchini, grated1 tablespoon minced garlicSalt1 cup fresh or frozen (and thawed) baby corn kernelsDOUGH5 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded24 wide dried corn husks6 cups masa harina, such as Quaker1 cups canola or vegetable oil5 cups water1 tablespoon salt 1. Make the filling: Make the filling: Place the chiles and water in a medium-size saucepan. Simmer over medium-low heat until the chiles have darkened and most of the liquid has evaporated. Set aside to cool. Place the chiles and water in a medium-size saucepan. Simmer over medium-low heat until the chiles have darkened and most of the liquid has evaporated. Set aside to cool.

Place the chiles, zucchini, garlic, and salt to taste in a large bowl. Turn into a mesh sieve and press on the vegetables to extract any liquid. Add the corn and set aside.

2. Remove the corn husks from the package and soak in a sink filled with hot water for 30 minutes. Choose the widest and longest husks and rinse off any corn silk. Drain the husks on several layers of paper towels.

3. Make the dough: Make the dough: In a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the masa harina, oil, water, and salt. It will have the consistency of a moist cookie dough. Add more water, by the tablespoonful, if necessary, to adjust the texture. In a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the masa harina, oil, water, and salt. It will have the consistency of a moist cookie dough. Add more water, by the tablespoonful, if necessary, to adjust the texture.

4. a.s.semble the tamales: a.s.semble the tamales: To form the tamales, spread about 2 tablespoons of the tamale dough inside the curve of a husk, allowing for a -inch border along one side. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the filling on top of the dough and sprinkle with a bit of the shredded cheese. Fold the sides of the dough into the center. Tie off both ends with a piece of kitchen twine or some husk. Continue to fill and wrap individual tamales. You will make about 24. To form the tamales, spread about 2 tablespoons of the tamale dough inside the curve of a husk, allowing for a -inch border along one side. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the filling on top of the dough and sprinkle with a bit of the shredded cheese. Fold the sides of the dough into the center. Tie off both ends with a piece of kitchen twine or some husk. Continue to fill and wrap individual tamales. You will make about 24.

5. Fill the rice cooker bowl with 2 to 5 inches of water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. Arrange the tamales in the steamer baskets (put 12 in each level), laying them side by side (not standing up), touching each other. Cover the tamales with a layer of 4 or 5 corn husks. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer baskets in the cooker and close the cover. Set a timer for 1 hour and steam the tamales. Check for doneness. Using tongs, remove one tamale and pull back the husk. If it pulls away easily, it is done; if it sticks, continue to steam in 10-minute intervals.

6. When fully cooked, transfer the tamales to a serving platter with a pair of tongs. Allow the tamales to rest for 15 minutes before serving. See steps 7 and 8 of The Tamale Schedule Tamale Schedule for storage and reheating instructions. for storage and reheating instructions.

tamale tarts Inspired by Southwest chef and food writer Stephen Pyles, here is a little individual tart mold with a removable bottom, like the ones used for sweet French pastry, lined with tamale dough and filled like a quiche. The tarts are steamed in the rice cooker steamer baskets and are oh so very good. Since only three molds fit in the basket at once, you will be steaming in two or three batches, depending on whether you have one or two steamer baskets, staggering the cooking time. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a dab or crema doble crema doble (Mexican sour cream) or sour cream and salsa. (Mexican sour cream) or sour cream and salsa.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: 8 tamale tartsFILLING1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter1 medium-size onion, chopped8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced; 4 medium-size zucchini; one 12-ounce package frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry; or 1 basket cherry tomatoes, halved1 cup black olive halves, drainedDOUGH2 cups masa harina, such as Quaker1 teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon salt cup fresh leaf lard, or a combination (half and half) of vegetable shortening and softened unsalted b.u.t.ter cup canola or vegetable oil1 tablespoons pureed canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (seeds removed, if less heat is desired)1 cups hot chicken stock, plus more if neededCUSTARD2 cups half-and-half6 large eggs1 teaspoon saltFreshly ground white pepperDash of garlic powder1 cup shredded cheese, such as Swiss, cheddar, mozzarella, or Monterey Jack 1. Make the filling: Make the filling: In a large saute pan, melt the b.u.t.ter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms or zucchini and cook, stirring, until tender, or add the spinach or tomatoes and cook until just warm. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. In a large saute pan, melt the b.u.t.ter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms or zucchini and cook, stirring, until tender, or add the spinach or tomatoes and cook until just warm. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

2. Make the dough: Make the dough: In a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the masa harina, baking powder, and salt. On low speed, cut in the lard; the mixture will be crumbly like a pie dough. Then drizzle in the oil. When that is incorporated, add the pureed chiles and chicken stock in a slow stream. You want a soft, but not sticky or liquid, dough. You want to be able to pat this dough into the pans. Beat for 2 minutes on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, adjusting the texture with a tablespoon or two more of the chicken stock, if needed. In a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the masa harina, baking powder, and salt. On low speed, cut in the lard; the mixture will be crumbly like a pie dough. Then drizzle in the oil. When that is incorporated, add the pureed chiles and chicken stock in a slow stream. You want a soft, but not sticky or liquid, dough. You want to be able to pat this dough into the pans. Beat for 2 minutes on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, adjusting the texture with a tablespoon or two more of the chicken stock, if needed.

3. Divide the dough into 8 equal portions. Press evenly into the bottoms and sides of eight 4-inch tin tartlet pans with removable bottoms and fluted edges. The dough will be between 1.8 and inch thick.

4. Fill the rice cooker bowl with 2 to 5 inches of water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle.

5. Divide the filling among the lined tartlet pans; sprinkle with the olives.

6. Make the custard: Make the custard: In a bowl with a whisk or immersion blender, beat together the half-and-half, eggs, and seasonings until smooth. Stir in the cheese. Pour the custard over the filling in the pans, filling only three-quarters full, leaving some headroom. Cover each pan with some plastic wrap and twist underneath to seal airtight. Place the pans in the steamer baskets, being careful not to tip the pans from side to side, or the custard will leak. In a bowl with a whisk or immersion blender, beat together the half-and-half, eggs, and seasonings until smooth. Stir in the cheese. Pour the custard over the filling in the pans, filling only three-quarters full, leaving some headroom. Cover each pan with some plastic wrap and twist underneath to seal airtight. Place the pans in the steamer baskets, being careful not to tip the pans from side to side, or the custard will leak.

7. When the water comes to a boil, place the steamer baskets in the cooker and close the cover. Steam for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the custard is set. Remove each pan with a metal spatula and place on a wire rack. Remove the plastic wrap by snipping with some kitchen shears and peeling off. Let cool for at least 10 minutes before removing the sides of the pans. Steam the remaining batch of tartlets. The tartlets should be re-covered with plastic wrap individually and refrigerated after 1 hour.

8. These are best served the day they are made, or refrigerate overnight and reheat for 10 minutes in the steamer basket or for about 1 minutes in a microwave oven.

OTHER GREAT MARINADES FOR STEAMED CHICKEN b.r.e.a.s.t.s AND FISHTeriyaki MarinadeYIELD: About 2 cups cup soy sauce cup soy sauce cup honey2 teaspoons peeled and grated fresh ginger1 clove garlic, pressed3 tablespoons dry sherry or sake cup vegetable oil cup chopped green onions, white and green partsPlace all the ingredients in a shallow bowl; whisk to combine.c.u.min-Yogurt MarinadeYIELD: About 2 cups1 cups plain yogurt cup fresh lemon juice2 teaspoons ground c.u.minPinch of mixed dried herbs, such as Parsley Patch1 clove garlic, pressed1 tablespoon olive oilPlace all the ingredients in a shallow bowl; whisk to combine.ASIAN INGREDIENTSIf you are new to cooking Asian-style food, there will be some ingredients, basic staples to these styles of cooking, with which you will want to become familiar. They are used in the following recipes and throughout this book. Shop in the Asian section of your supermarket or visit a specialty grocery, which is an experience every serious cook should entertain (you will come home with all sorts of wonderful foods and condiments). This section is also a useful reference when making any of our fried rices. fried rices.Asian sesame oil: A toasted oil that is thick and brown and used more as a seasoning than a cooking oil. Store in the cupboard, or refrigerate if you use it slowly. A toasted oil that is thick and brown and used more as a seasoning than a cooking oil. Store in the cupboard, or refrigerate if you use it slowly.Black beans with garlic sauce: This pungent and addicting sauce is found in jars in Asian markets. This pungent and addicting sauce is found in jars in Asian markets.Chile oil: The same as hot sesame oil, only it says "vegetable oil" instead of sesame oil. The same as hot sesame oil, only it says "vegetable oil" instead of sesame oil.Chinese mustard: A spicy, smooth mustard. A spicy, smooth mustard.Cilantro: An herb also known as fresh coriander or Chinese parsley, since it is used so much in their cooking. It has a fragile flat, fringed leaf with an intense peppery aroma and a flavor that is positively addictive, sort of citrus-like. An herb also known as fresh coriander or Chinese parsley, since it is used so much in their cooking. It has a fragile flat, fringed leaf with an intense peppery aroma and a flavor that is positively addictive, sort of citrus-like.Dried shrimp: Sun-dried and salted golden orange shriveled-up shrimps are a prized ingredient and used as a seasoning. Sold in plastic bags; store, tightly closed, in the refrigerator or freezer. Sun-dried and salted golden orange shriveled-up shrimps are a prized ingredient and used as a seasoning. Sold in plastic bags; store, tightly closed, in the refrigerator or freezer.Fermented black beans: These are sold on the shelf in plastic pouches. A little goes a long way in flavoring foods. These are sold on the shelf in plastic pouches. A little goes a long way in flavoring foods.Fish sauce: Pungent Pungent nam pla nam pla in Thai is extracted from salted anchovies or shrimp and used as a cooking condiment. Thai and Vietnamese fish sauces differ slightly. in Thai is extracted from salted anchovies or shrimp and used as a cooking condiment. Thai and Vietnamese fish sauces differ slightly.Ginger: Fresh ginger should be peeled before using. It doesn't keep well, so don't buy more than a week's worth. Pickled ginger is colored deep red and used as a garnish or flavoring. Fresh ginger should be peeled before using. It doesn't keep well, so don't buy more than a week's worth. Pickled ginger is colored deep red and used as a garnish or flavoring.Hoisin sauce: Made from soybeans, flour, sugar, salt, garlic, and chiles, hoisin is a thick, dark red sauce with a piquant flavor beloved in Chinese cooking. It can be used as an ingredient in dim sum, as a seasoning, or in the dipping sauce. Store in the refrigerator indefinitely. Made from soybeans, flour, sugar, salt, garlic, and chiles, hoisin is a thick, dark red sauce with a piquant flavor beloved in Chinese cooking. It can be used as an ingredient in dim sum, as a seasoning, or in the dipping sauce. Store in the refrigerator indefinitely.Hot sesame oil: Made by steeping hot red chiles in sesame oil, this has a reddish tinge and comes in small bottles because you need only a little dab as a condiment or ingredient. Store in the refrigerator indefinitely. Made by steeping hot red chiles in sesame oil, this has a reddish tinge and comes in small bottles because you need only a little dab as a condiment or ingredient. Store in the refrigerator indefinitely.Mirin: A j.a.panese sweet rice cooking wine, it is used to add sweetness to a recipe. Pale dry sherry with a dash of sugar added can be subst.i.tuted. A j.a.panese sweet rice cooking wine, it is used to add sweetness to a recipe. Pale dry sherry with a dash of sugar added can be subst.i.tuted.Miso: A j.a.panese ingredient high in protein, it is a sticky, thick soybean paste made from fermented soybeans and salt, and is used as a flavoring agent or diluted into broth for soup. It comes in many varieties, each with its own hue and flavor, from mild to strong. Store in the refrigerator indefinitely. A j.a.panese ingredient high in protein, it is a sticky, thick soybean paste made from fermented soybeans and salt, and is used as a flavoring agent or diluted into broth for soup. It comes in many varieties, each with its own hue and flavor, from mild to strong. Store in the refrigerator indefinitely.Napa cabbage: Also called Chinese cabbage, it is a looser, oblong head of crinkly edged leaves that has an especially mild flavor and is a favorite ingredient, as well as a perfect liner for steamer baskets, along with b.u.t.ter lettuce and green chard leaves. Usually sold next to the regular heads of cabbage in the produce section. Also called Chinese cabbage, it is a looser, oblong head of crinkly edged leaves that has an especially mild flavor and is a favorite ingredient, as well as a perfect liner for steamer baskets, along with b.u.t.ter lettuce and green chard leaves. Usually sold next to the regular heads of cabbage in the produce section.Oyster sauce: A thick brown condiment, like Worcestershire sauce, made from a large array of ingredients-including fermented oyster extract, salt, and soy sauce-it adds color and a salty flavor to a dish. Beth loves a vegetarian oyster sauce (found only in specialty markets) with the oyster extract replaced with shiitake mushroom extract; it is fantastic! Pay the bit more for "premium" oyster sauce; it is worth it. Store in the refrigerator. A thick brown condiment, like Worcestershire sauce, made from a large array of ingredients-including fermented oyster extract, salt, and soy sauce-it adds color and a salty flavor to a dish. Beth loves a vegetarian oyster sauce (found only in specialty markets) with the oyster extract replaced with shiitake mushroom extract; it is fantastic! Pay the bit more for "premium" oyster sauce; it is worth it. Store in the refrigerator.Rice vinegar: A distilled clear, straw-colored vinegar with a mild sweet flavor made from fermented white rice and used in cooking as a seasoning, and for pickling. A distilled clear, straw-colored vinegar with a mild sweet flavor made from fermented white rice and used in cooking as a seasoning, and for pickling.Rice wine: See Shaoxing wine, Sake, Mirin. See Shaoxing wine, Sake, Mirin.Sake: A j.a.panese rice wine that is not sweet like mirin. Stronger than American wine, it is used for cooking as well as for drinking. Hakusan is a good inexpensive domestic brand. A j.a.panese rice wine that is not sweet like mirin. Stronger than American wine, it is used for cooking as well as for drinking. Hakusan is a good inexpensive domestic brand.Shaoxing wine: The popular Chinese dark amber rice wine used for cooking, found in Asian markets, sometimes labeled with the older spelling Shao Hsing. A medium-dry sherry (not sake) is a good subst.i.tute. The popular Chinese dark amber rice wine used for cooking, found in Asian markets, sometimes labeled with the older spelling Shao Hsing. A medium-dry sherry (not sake) is a good subst.i.tute.Soy sauce: Made from fermented soybeans, salt, and wheat, soy sauce is a full-flavored salt subst.i.tute and premier ingredient in Asian cooking. It is used as an ingredient, a condiment, and a marinade. There are different brands, both Chinese and j.a.panese, ranging in degree of quality, saltiness, and flavor. There is a light, or thin, soy sauce, used in these recipes, and a dark, or thick, soy sauce that is more viscous and stronger in flavor. Beth uses tamari, a j.a.panese soy sauce that is more like Chinese dark soy sauce. Julie favors regular j.a.panese-style soy sauces called Made from fermented soybeans, salt, and wheat, soy sauce is a full-flavored salt subst.i.tute and premier ingredient in Asian cooking. It is used as an ingredient, a condiment, and a marinade. There are different brands, both Chinese and j.a.panese, ranging in degree of quality, saltiness, and flavor. There is a light, or thin, soy sauce, used in these recipes, and a dark, or thick, soy sauce that is more viscous and stronger in flavor. Beth uses tamari, a j.a.panese soy sauce that is more like Chinese dark soy sauce. Julie favors regular j.a.panese-style soy sauces called shoyu shoyu; they are thinner, a dash sweeter, and less salty than the Chinese ones. Reduced-sodium brands, catering to the health-conscious market and changing tastes, are excellent.Szechuan pepper: Tiny red-brown peppercorns with a strong, hot flavor. This is a regional product of Szechuan province. Tiny red-brown peppercorns with a strong, hot flavor. This is a regional product of Szechuan province.Tofu: Also known as bean curd, tofu is a pressed block made from curdled soy bean milk. It is quite bland, but is favored as a vegetarian alternative to meat because of its high protein content. It comes in soft, silken, medium, firm, and extra firm styles, and is custardlike in texture. Store tofu in the refrigerator (except for the kind packed in juice box containers, which can be stored unopened at room temperature; once opened, they, too, must be refrigerated). After opening, store any left over tofu in a water-filled plastic or gla.s.s container with a tight-fitting lid. Change the water daily and the tofu will stay fresh for days. Also known as bean curd, tofu is a pressed block made from curdled soy bean milk. It is quite bland, but is favored as a vegetarian alternative to meat because of its high protein content. It comes in soft, silken, medium, firm, and extra firm styles, and is custardlike in texture. Store tofu in the refrigerator (except for the kind packed in juice box containers, which can be stored unopened at room temperature; once opened, they, too, must be refrigerated). After opening, store any left over tofu in a water-filled plastic or gla.s.s container with a tight-fitting lid. Change the water daily and the tofu will stay fresh for days.Wonton or siu mai wrappers: Look for these small, 3-inch square or round thin pasta sheets in plastic pouches in the produce or refrigerator section. Freeze unused wrappers for up to a month. They can be steamed, fried, or boiled after filling. Look for these small, 3-inch square or round thin pasta sheets in plastic pouches in the produce or refrigerator section. Freeze unused wrappers for up to a month. They can be steamed, fried, or boiled after filling.YOUR OWN PRESERVED GRAPE LEAVESPick the tender leaves early in the summer for the best tasting and most palatable leaves, and leave at least an inch of stem attached (you will use the stem to handle the wet leaves). Tasters say the best varieties of grape for their leaves are Thompson Seedless, Chardonnay, and Emperor.Sort the leaves (rounded lobes are better than deeply lobed; they are more tender) and discard ones that have holes or are torn. Gently rinse under cold running water.In a large saucepan filled with water, add 2 tablespoons of fine salt per quart of water. Bring to a boil. Slide the leaves into the boiling water and blanch for 2 to 3 minutes. Lift out with a large slotted spoon or pour through a large colander to drain. Remove each leaf, one at a time, pat dry with a paper towel, and uncurl the edges. The grape leaves are now ready for stuffing.If you want to preserve them for up to 2 weeks, combine 1 cup water and 1 cup lemon juice in a saucepan; bring to a boil. Stack the wet leaves in piles of 10 and roll up like a cigar. Pack into a sterile pint canning jar. You will be able to pack quite a few rolls into each jar. Pour the hot liquid into each jar, covering the leaves completely. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or pressure-can for longer storage.FILLING VARIATIONSThere are never enough vegetable fillings for tamales, so here are a few extra.Winter Squash and Cilantro Tamales2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter medium-size white onion, chopped medium-size red bell pepper, seeded and chopped3 cups peeled, seeded, and diced pumpkin or other winter squash, such as b.u.t.ternut or blue Hubbard1 teaspoon saltDash of ground white pepper1 cup chicken or vegetable stock cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves1. In a large skillet, melt the b.u.t.ter over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring, until softened. Add the squash, salt, white pepper, and stock and simmer, partially covered, until the squash is tender.2. Remove the cover, increase the heat to high, and cook until the liquid is evaporated. Mash a few times (leave some chunks) and stir in the cilantro. Let cool to room temperature or refrigerate.Corn and Black Bean Tamales2 cups fresh or frozen (and thawed) baby corn kernels1 cups cooked black beans, drained and rinsedOne 7-ounce jar roasted sweet red peppers, drained on paper towels and minced, or 2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and minced2 teaspoons ground c.u.min2 teaspoons chili powder1 teaspoons salt6 ounces goat cheese, crumbled1. Place the corn, beans, roasted peppers, c.u.min, chili powder, and salt in a medium-size bowl; stir to combine. Refrigerate until needed.2. When you fill the tamales, sprinkle them with some goat cheese before wrapping.

sweet puddings and fruit DESSERTS Tapioca Pudding Coconut Tapioca Pudding Old-Fashioned Rice Pudding Arborio Rice Pudding Tahini Brown Rice Pudding Kheer (Indian Rice Pudding) Chocolate Rice Pudding Homemade Applesauce Poached Dried Figs in Spiced Red Wine Poached Dried Apricots Pruneaux Pinot Noir Brandied Prune Sauce Stewed Dried Fruit Stewed Blueberries Poached Rhubarb and Strawberries Poached Pears with Grand Marnier Custard Sauce Poached Fresh Cherries Poached Fresh Apricots Pink Wine Quinces While we often think of rice as just a dinner side dish or in rice pudding for dessert, rice is so beloved that an old-fashioned dessert of European royalty was to eat freshly steamed plain long-grain rice with spoonfuls of cherry or strawberry preserves and whipped cream or sour cream on top.

The Porridge cycle on the fuzzy logic machines, with its gentle, even heat source, makes beautiful, creamy, sweet dessert puddings such as tapioca and rice pudding, delightful desserts that have starch at their heart. It also makes lovely fruit desserts such as applesauce, compotes, and poached fruit. This is pure comfort food, softly cooked, warm, sweet. These are not elaborate desserts, just soothing simplicity. The Porridge cycle is essential to the success of these recipes. Please note that these recipes cannot be made in the on/off machines, because the heat is just too high.

One additional caution: In some types of fuzzy-logic rice cookers, milk-based puddings will boil over, even when using the porridge cycle. Please keep an eye on your cooker the first time you make a milk-based tapioca or rice pudding. If the liquid boils over, shut off the machine immediately. (You can finish cooking the dish in a saucepan on the stovetop.) TAPIOCA.

Real old-fashioned tapioca pudding made from pearl tapioca, the whole pellets of dried ca.s.sava root, is a nuisance to make on the stove-such a nuisance, in fact, that it is hardly ever made from scratch anymore. There are recipes for it in early colonial cookbooks that call for hours of soaking and then cooking in sugar and wine. But in the rice cooker, tapioca becomes a simple one-step process that yields a delicious, creamy, nutritious dessert. Whole pearl tapioca can come in really large or small shapes. We prefer the small pearl tapioca (which is ground into smaller pellets), since it works much like quick-cooking minute tapioca by cooking a lot faster. These products are not the same as instant tapioca, which is what is used in presweetened mixes.

tapioca pudding This pudding uses the whole pearl tapioca, a food that most Western cooks have never used, but it is a staple in tropical countries where flour would clump and spoil in short order. The flavor of this made-from-scratch pudding trounces that of ready-made or packaged tapioca mixes. If desired, fold in fresh or frozen berries, sliced peaches or mangos, poached pears, or other fruit, and top with whipped cream.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 3 to 43 tablespoons small pearl tapioca (not minute or instant tapioca)2 cups milk (lowfat or nonfat is fine)1 large egg cup sugarPinch of salt1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. Place the tapioca in the rice cooker bowl. In a 4-cup measuring cup or small bowl, whisk together the milk, egg, sugar, and salt. Pour the milk mixture over the tapioca; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, remove the bowl from the cooker and stir in the vanilla. Pour the pudding into a large bowl or individual dessert dishes. Let cool. Serve warm, if desired, or refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap.

coconut tapioca pudding We knew tapioca pudding from childhood as "fish eye pudding." Here it is made with a twist, coconut milk instead of regular milk, just like it would be prepared in some place like Thailand. We like Cook's Cookie vanilla extract; it is a combination of vanillas that is especially flowery and delicate in flavor. Canned coconut milk is available in Asian specialty markets. Coconut-based puddings are nice with some chopped tropical fruit, such as pineapple or mango, on top.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 63 cups canned unsweetened coconut milk cup small pearl tapioca or quick-cooking tapioca cup sugar1 large eggPinch of salt2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract, preferably Tahitian 1. Place the coconut milk, tapioca, sugar, egg, and salt in the rice cooker bowl; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle. Open the cover and stir about every 20 minutes for a few seconds, then close the cover.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, remove the bowl from the cooker and stir in the vanilla. Pour the pudding into a large bowl or individual dessert dishes. Let cool. Serve warm, if desired, or refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap.

RICE PUDDING.

Anywhere in the world that there is rice, there is some sort of rice pudding. The use of leftover starch, such as rice or bread, as an ingredient in a sweet concoction is as old as cooking mush. It is important to note that different rices-long-grain, short-grain, medium-grain, brown, white, wild-all make different textured puddings. The different amounts of starch in the rices break down during the cooking process and, along with eggs, thicken the mixture. Long-grain rice has the least amount of starch, so recipes often call for short- and medium-grain rices such as Italian Arborio, Spanish Valencia, or j.a.panese glutinous rice to make a nice creamy pudding. Here we have included rice puddings made with apple juice and honey, as well as regular milk. Each has its own character and charm. Serve your rice puddings warm. As with regular rice, chilling hardens the starch in the rice kernel and you end up with a stiffer pudding after refrigeration.

old-fashioned rice pudding Here is the quintessential rice pudding of everyone's childhood. It is sweet and creamy, no fancy or exotic ingredients. Whole milk is best, but 2 percent works fine. It is slowly simmered in the rice cooker and ready to eat as soon as it cools. Remember that rice pudding thickens considerably when chilled as the starch in the rice sets up.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 6 cup medium-grain white rice, such as Arborio, Calriso, or other California-grown rice cup medium-grain white rice, such as Arborio, Calriso, or other California-grown rice4 cups milk1 large egg cup sugar1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. Place the rice and milk in the rice cooker bowl; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, combine the egg, sugar, and vanilla in a small bowl and beat with a whisk. Open the rice cooker, spoon a few tablespoons of the rice milk into the egg mixture, and beat with a wooden spoon. Beating the rice milk constantly, pour the egg mixture into the rice cooker bowl. Stir for a minute to combine. Close the cover and reset for a second Porridge cycle. Stir every 15 to 20 minutes until the desired thickness is reached.

3. Pour the pudding into 6 custard cups or ramekins. Serve warm or let cool slightly and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. When cold, cover with plastic wrap and store for up to 4 days.

arborio rice pudding This is a great slow-cooked, unbaked rice pudding. It uses medium-grain white rice and is enriched with cream and cream cheese or another dairy product. Some folks like raisins or other chopped dried fruit in their rice pudding, but we like this one without. It is very good with fresh fruit, such as chopped strawberries or mangos, or a pool of raspberry sauce spooned over before you top it with some whipped cream.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 6 cup Arborio rice4 cups milk cup sugar teaspoon salt1 large egg, well beaten cup heavy cream or milk3 tablespoons cream cheese, cut into chunks, or mascarpone, sour cream, or ricotta cheese2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg or ground mace 1. Place the rice, milk, sugar, and salt in the rice cooker bowl; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, briskly stir in the beaten egg, heavy cream, cream cheese, vanilla, and nutmeg with a wooden spoon. Close the cover and reset for a second Porridge cycle. Stir every 15 minutes until the desired consistency is reached. You can stop the cycle anytime after the first 15 minutes up to the end of the cycle, depending on how soft you like your pudding.

3. Let stand to cool slightly, then spoon into bowls. Or cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

tahini brown rice pudding Here's a great-tasting milk-free pudding that's based on brown rice and sweetened naturally with dates, apple juice, and a small amount of honey. Sliced bananas are the perfect topping. The secret ingredient is tahini; in fact, we adapted this recipe from one on a brochure that the Arrowhead Mills company distributed with jars of tahini.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: Regular/Brown Rice and PorridgeYIELD: Serves 81 cups medium-grain brown rice2 cups water cup sesame paste (tahini)2 cups apple juice2 tablespoons honey or brown rice syrup cup chopped unsalted cashews1 cup chopped dates2 large ripe bananas, peeled and sliced, for serving 1. Wash and drain the rice.

2. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl and add the water. Close the cover and set for the regular/Brown Rice cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cover and add the sesame paste, apple juice, honey, cashews, and dates; stir with a wooden spoon. Reset for the Porridge cycle.

4. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, turn off the machine. Serve the pudding hot or cold, with sliced bananas on top.

kheer (indian rice pudding) The Indian rice pudding kheer kheer fills the house with the heady aromas of basmati rice, cardamom, and that elusive hint of rose water. One of the glories of the Indian kitchen, it is smooth, creamy, not overly sweet, and good warm or cold. A sprinkle of nuts adds crunch. fills the house with the heady aromas of basmati rice, cardamom, and that elusive hint of rose water. One of the glories of the Indian kitchen, it is smooth, creamy, not overly sweet, and good warm or cold. A sprinkle of nuts adds crunch. Kheer Kheer is traditionally made by boiling lots of milk and a small quant.i.ty of rice on the stove until the milk is reduced and the pudding thick. How much milk? Recipes vary, but the ratio of rice to milk can be as high as 1 part rice to 24 parts milk! No wonder the process can take more than an hour, with frequent stirring an absolute necessity. Worse, the pot with milk residue stuck to the bottom is no fun at all to clean. In your rice cooker, you can make authentic-tasting is traditionally made by boiling lots of milk and a small quant.i.ty of rice on the stove until the milk is reduced and the pudding thick. How much milk? Recipes vary, but the ratio of rice to milk can be as high as 1 part rice to 24 parts milk! No wonder the process can take more than an hour, with frequent stirring an absolute necessity. Worse, the pot with milk residue stuck to the bottom is no fun at all to clean. In your rice cooker, you can make authentic-tasting kheer kheer with no fuss at all. A gentle swish in cold, soapy water cleans the pot. After months of experimentation, we settled on this recipe, adapted from one on the website of the Tilda Company, which sells excellent imported basmati rice. The whipped cream is not essential, but a lovely touch. You can find rose water in gourmet markets or Indian or Middle Eastern markets. with no fuss at all. A gentle swish in cold, soapy water cleans the pot. After months of experimentation, we settled on this recipe, adapted from one on the website of the Tilda Company, which sells excellent imported basmati rice. The whipped cream is not essential, but a lovely touch. You can find rose water in gourmet markets or Indian or Middle Eastern markets.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 6 to 8 cup white basmati rice cup white basmati rice4 cups whole milk cup sugar cup sugar4 green cardamom pods2 teaspoons rose water cup heavy cream cup dark raisins2 tablespoons roughly chopped unsalted pistachios 1. Rinse the rice and drain it well.

2. Place the rice, milk, sugar, and cardamom pods in the rice cooker bowl. Stir briefly with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cover and remove the bowl. Let the kheer kheer cool for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming on the surface of the pudding. Remove the cardamom pods. Stir in the rose water. Transfer the pudding to a serving bowl, if desired, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Chill in the refrigerator until cool but not cold, about 1 hour. cool for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming on the surface of the pudding. Remove the cardamom pods. Stir in the rose water. Transfer the pudding to a serving bowl, if desired, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Chill in the refrigerator until cool but not cold, about 1 hour.

4. Whip the cream with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Gently fold the cream into the pudding along with the raisins and most of the pistachios. Sprinkle a few chopped pistachios atop each serving.

chocolate rice pudding Chocolate in rice pudding is not traditional, but oh so perfect for dessert. This is a great recipe to use up leftover rice. Serve straight out of the rice cooker with some whipped cream or nondairy whipped topping, as desired.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: Serves 4 cup sugar1 tablespoons cornstarch1 cups milk1 cup half-and-half1 large egg, beaten1 cup cooked medium-grain white rice4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coa.r.s.ely chopped, or 3/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. In a medium-size bowl, combine the sugar and cornstarch. Whisking constantly, beat in the milk, half-and-half, and egg. Pour the mixture into the rice cooker bowl. Add the rice and chocolate; stir to combine. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle, stirring every 15 minutes, if you remember (it works perfectly well without!).

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cooker and stir in the vanilla. Spoon the pudding into 4 custard cups or ramekins. Let cool slightly and serve warm or at room temperature.

FRUIT DESSERTS.

Poached fresh and dried fruit have a charm all their own. Depending on the type of fruit, they can be poached whole, halved, or in pieces, in a thick or thin sugar syrup. You can make a compote out of a single fruit or combination of two or more fruits, called a compote compose. They are just plain gorgeous in a serving bowl surrounded by their syrup. While poached prunes are the most familiar cooked dried fruit, relegated sadly to the breakfast table, all sorts of other dried fruits lend themselves well to the gentle cooking and sweet aromatic bath required for a nice compote.

The Porridge cycle on the fuzzy logic machines serves us well again, keeping the shape of the fruit intact and giving the time necessary to mull the cooking juices to perfection without extra soaking or fuss. Fruits can be poached in water, wine, or fruit juice, or a combination thereof. While the fruits are poached in a varying amount of sugar syrup, you never want to add too much sugar or honey; it will detract from the natural flavors and sweetness inherent in the fruit, as well as contribute to breaking down the fruit, unless, of course, that is what you want, as in the case of applesauce.

Compotes are so popular that there is a special gla.s.s or porcelain raised footed bowl just for serving them called a compotier. Using a slotted spoon, place the fruits in the bowl and pour the syrup over them. Poached fruits are traditionally served still gently warm with whipped cream, but are also good cold, served over ice cream or as a garnish to vanilla cheesecake and a battery of plain old-fashioned cakes such as angel food cake, sponge cake, gold cake, and pound cake. Try one of our poached fruit recipes and we think you will be delightfully surprised.

homemade applesauce Who doesn't love homemade applesauce? Canned just doesn't come close. The Porridge cycle on the rice cooker makes great fruit sauce. We love our applesauce with lots of cinnamon. You can add the sugar or not; Julie likes hers sweet, Beth likes hers without sugar. Serve for breakfast with yogurt, alongside pork chops for dinner, or warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream for dessert.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic onlyCYCLE: PorridgeYIELD: About 3 cups8 large, firm, tart green apples (2 to 3 pounds) cup water or apple juice cup sugar (optional)1 to 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, to your taste cup ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter 1. Peel, core, and coa.r.s.ely chop the apples. Place in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water, sugar (if using), cinnamon, and b.u.t.ter. Close the cover and set for the Porridge cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, carefully open the cover, allowing the steam to escape. Stir the cooked fruit and its liquid with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. The applesauce should be soft and chunky (you can puree it in a food processor or with an immersion blender if you like it smooth). Let stand to cool.

3. Transfer the applesauce to a covered container and refrigerate. Keeps for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator (if it lasts that long), or freeze.