"I have vainly complained to him of this negligence, and pointed out the inconvenience and interruption I was perpetually being exposed to by people rapping at my door, under the pretext of inquiring if M.

So-and-so lodged there, but evidently with the intention of finding out if there was any one within to hinder their forcing an entrance.

His invariable reply used to be, '_Eh bien_! _que voulez vous que je fa.s.se_.' There are no bells, so that I may die in a fit, or be burnt to death before any a.s.sistance could be obtained."

Such is the deplorable picture drawn by my poor friend, who, on the other hand, lauds up to the skies lodgings of a similar cla.s.s in London, and as he is a sharp, acute man, I have little doubt but that he is correct in his ideas.

What surprised me very much in Paris was the apparent ignorance of the French with regard to the cities and towns of the Holy Land. I forgot at that period that they were restricted from reading their Bibles, and that consequently very few of them were likely to have the names of places, and people familiar to the English and ourselves, so firmly impressed upon their minds. My appearance and costume never excited curiosity.

When they asked me whence I came from, and I answered _Syria_, the word made no impression on them.

"Where is that?" said one man to another in my hearing.

"_Ma foi_, _je ne saurais vous dire_-unless it be some obscure village in Algeria which our colonists have not yet explored."

Of course the higher cla.s.ses are not guilty of such ignorance, for who could have thrown a better light on the beauties and localities of Syria than the learned and amiable Lamartine, whose accurate work, _Souvenirs de l'Orient_, is deservedly popular over Europe.

I have many pleasant _souvenirs_ of the friends I met in Paris. The hospitable _reunions_ of their Excellencies the Turkish and the English amba.s.sadors-the kindness of the American representative, Mr. Rives-the brilliant b.a.l.l.s I was invited to by various families of fashion-and an adventure at the hotel V....-never to be forgotten, and which it is my intention at some future period to publish, which I have no doubt will interest many of my English readers-all these I recall with pleasure, and I avail myself of this opportunity with gladness to thank my many friends in Paris for the courtesy and kindness I have ever met with at their hands. But putting these aside as elegant exceptions, I prefer on the whole England, and the friendship of an Englishman to that of a Frenchman,-the private character of the former has a sounder foundation, and they know how to appreciate real moral, domestic comfort and happiness, such as our countrymen seek for and find amongst the citron groves and gardens of Syria.

Now it can hardly be said that a Frenchman knows what domestic bliss signifies. With him the Cafe is a _sine qua non_; he may have an amiable and charming wife, a young and attractive family, every charm of domestic happiness that should link his heart and thoughts with home, and draw him towards it as the only true and rational source of enjoyment; but he leaves all these, and looks upon them as insipid; his sole delight is to wander about from cafe to cafe, varying his amus.e.m.e.nts by an occasional game at billiards or a _pet.i.t verre_, else he strays from theatre to operas, from operas to b.a.l.l.s, and some of the wealthier cla.s.ses live for weeks, and sometimes months, in the country in the strictest seclusion, practising an economy amounting to penuriousness, in order that they may, on their return to town, be enabled to gratify this pa.s.sion. The wives of these gentlemen, continually deserted, left to themselves, and naturally of a gay turn, which in many instances arises from a neglect of a proper moral education, form those _liaisons_ with others, which are publicly known and talked about with the utmost _nonchalance_, and which, in my humble opinion, are an outrage to the name of Christianity, and a disgrace to a nation acknowledged in every other respect to stand high in the scale of civilization. I cannot describe what a painful effect it has upon the mind of Syrian strangers to witness such things countenanced in France; they leave the country with very poor opinions of its civilization-poorer still of its Christianity; and they disseminate these opinions amongst our own people on their return to Syria; hence it arises that oftentimes the poorer and more ignorant inhabitants of Syria, who cannot distinguish one European nation from another, but who set all down under the head of Franks, and suppose all to be of one creed and manner of thinking, are apt to imagine that the English are only next-door to infidels, and consequently a people to be feared, if not entirely avoided; but this is an error which I will occupy myself in rectifying as soon as I can find time to distribute tracts in Syria descriptive of the laws, manners, customs, and religions, of the different nations of Europe.

But to return to the French, or rather the middle cla.s.ses of the French.

I found it almost invariably the case that should a Frenchman invite you to a _cafe_, he does so in the full expectation that you in your turn will give him a treat. His character is inconsistency personified-he is fickle and capricious-he enters freely into conversation with you, and lets you into all his secrets during the first five minutes of his acquaintance, and he entertains you with a string of personal adventures.

With him every one is _mon cher_! _mon brave_! _mon ami_! He could kiss and hug you on parting, and swears eternal fidelity. The next day his ardour has cooled-the third he restricts himself to a bow-the fourth, and he mingles with the crowd-and you never meet him again perhaps in a life-time.

For a ball-room society give me Paris-for a quiet untiring friend, give me England. And of the two my heart prefers the latter.

From France I travelled to Vienna. After delivering my letters to the minister in that city, I proceeded to Constantinople. On arriving there I took up my abode with my old friend the Emir Sayed, the grandson of the Emir Beschir.

CHAPTER X.

STAY AT CONSTANTINOPLE.

Even at this distance of time, my spirit is filled with melancholy, when I think of that kind friend with whom I pa.s.sed the greater portion of my time whilst at Constantinople: perhaps a description of one evening spent in his society may be of interest.

The Emir Sayed-a wreck of greatness, whose fond dream of life's realities can only find an echo in the past-the shattered fragment of one born to command-second only to a supreme sovereign-he is a helpless broken-hearted man, supported on the alms of those who could once barely claim the high honour of admission into his presence. So much does misfortune level the creatures of the Creator-so great the fall from a princely estate to a beggarly dependence; thank G.o.d, however, even the gloomiest hours of existence, a light, however feeble, of the brighter hopes of life, breaks in upon the soul like an April sunbeam, and chases from its darkened caverns all the moist drops of a tearful heart. It was thus with the Emir Sayed. His favorite resort in Stamboul was a _cafe_, where of an evening, furnished with a _chibuk_ and a cup of coffee, he would sit, surrounded by his most intimate friends, and listen from hour to hour to the marvellous or amusing tales told there nightly by professional tale-tellers. On such occasions it was a privilege to me to accompany the fallen prince, for, besides the instruction I derived in learning _au fond_ the technicalities of the Turkish language, I learnt a lesson in the experiences of life-how to bear up against misfortunes like a man-how to bow the head to the will of Providence, and submit to what might appear a calamity, and still doubtless might be intended as a safeguard or a blessing to him, whom the Great Benefactor has seen fit to surround with troubles, lest his soul should stray from the narrow path of righteousness.

We will now, by the reader's permission, fancy ourselves threading the narrow streets of the Turkish capital, following a servant, who carries a _fannar_, or lantern. At length we reach the _cafe_. A thousand lights, strung upon every conceivable hook, lend their enlivening brilliancy to light up the _salon_; the open s.p.a.ce in front is filled with attentive auditors, all seated on diminutive stools, or carpets, all silent, all sedate, mostly wearing beards, and every one smoking or sipping his coffee. We pa.s.s through a kind of human alley. We enter the coffee-shop: the seat at the furthermost end-the seat of honour-is always reserved for the Emir. "He is a Bey still, and also a stranger."

At length we are all seated, all served, and the amus.e.m.e.nts of the evening commence; the violin and the guitar, both have been tuned, and the first piece commences: a short symphony of lively music, and then the bard of the company sings a song, of which the following is a specimen:-

Breeze of the West, I pray thee roam Toward my moon-faced lady's home; To her my flight forlorn declare, t.i.ttle by t.i.ttle, hair by hair,

Parted from thee, thou form of grace, My heart hath been grief's dwelling-place; And love has drawn my wandering feet, From grove to grove, from street to street.

My heart, when bent on beauty's chase, Ne'er found so sweet a form and face; Although with roving step it went, From house to house, from tent to tent.

While others smile, and play, and flirt, This bleeding heart bemoans its hurt, Like a young rose, blood-stained with grief, Petal by petal, leaf by leaf.

The garden where I loved to trace, Sweet blooming flowers in thy face, How _low_ and _dead_ all gardens seem, Alley by alley, stream by stream.

Sweet jasmine-bosomed love,-I pray Fondly to heaven by night and day, Once more to see that form and face, Lip pressed to lip, and face to face.

Of all the garden flowers that be, Why is the rose most dear to me?

'Tis that it's like thy heart so true, Odour to odour, hue to hue.

Though far from Allah's loving sight, The Fates have borne my soul's delight; Go, Western Breeze, this message bear, Where'er thou art, my heart is there!

The song is no sooner concluded, narghilies, pipes and coffee handed round, than the story-teller's abilities are called into requisition, and he tells us the story of

"THE TAILOR AND THE SULTAN.

"Formerly when Baghdad was flourishing, when great men sometimes condescended to sink themselves to a level with the common herd of mankind, there lived and reigned the Sultan Houssein. He was a famous man and a just judge, but rather eccentric withal. As his Grand Vizier had, on more than one occasion, given him cause of dissatisfaction, he was determined at any cost to get the cleverest man in the kingdom to perform the duties of that office; but he resorted to a curious trial of their talent. A proclamation was issued, that the sultan offered the highest dignity in the empire to him amongst his subjects, who should be able satisfactorily to perform what he should require; on the other hand, the penalty in case of failure being, that the man so failing should forfeit his head. Under such circ.u.mstances, the aspirants were not over numerous, but still there were not wanting ambitious men, who were willing to place their heads in danger for the attainment of a position, which perhaps they least of any of the people of the country were fitted for. At last, a presumptuous tailor offered himself as a candidate, and was in due course ushered into the presence of royalty. The poor maker of garments found the sultan reclining on a carpet; and, hanging on a nail in the wall of the room, was a solitary counterpane; and in this counterpane the solution of the whole of the difficulty lay-the task being to cover the sultan entirely over with it. When the tailor first tried, to his consternation he found it too short by two good spans. He then suggested that another should be introduced; but the sultan laughed and hooted at the idea. At last a bright notion flashed across the tailor. He had long been accustomed to the nefarious art of cabbaging, so he set his inventive faculties to work, to find out how he could best cabbage a piece from the length of the sultan's body, or, in other words, reduce it into as small a compa.s.s as could possibly be effected. Bethinking himself luckily of a little cane he usually carried in his girdle, he first covered the sultan's head, his feet remaining uncovered; he removed the embroidered slippers, and stealthily bringing out his cane, caught the sultan a severe blow across the soles of his feet, that he involuntarily tucked them up, thus drawing himself into a sufficiently small compa.s.s, and the tailor, availing himself of this circ.u.mstance, instantly tucked the counterpane round him, and thus effectually succeeded in entirely covering him, at the same time telling him he must always take care to stretch his legs according to his covering."

With songs and stories, such as I have given above, the time pa.s.ses until nine o'clock, at which hour most of those a.s.sembled take their departure; and the Emir, attended as when he arrived, returns to his disconsolate dwelling to talk over the misfortunes of other days.

Perhaps here it would not be out of place, to show the fallacy of the opinions usually entertained in Western Europe as to the state of things in Turkey. People talk of the fanaticism of the Turks; and in England more especially they seem to entertain an innate terror of the very name of Turk. Anything ferocious, anything ugly, and black, and dingy, is called "like a Turk." Now what can undeceive this excessive ignorance better than the conduct of the present amiable and excellent Sultan, of whom many instances might be given, shewing the utmost liberality of conduct towards those of his subjects professing a different creed, and their admission to some of the most responsible public offices. It is a fact worthy of remark, as ill.u.s.trating this toleration of spirit, that his representatives at the courts of London, Paris, Vienna, and Berlin, {175} have on several occasions been of the Greek faith. Also, on the event of the marriage of the daughter of the Prince Etienne Vogorides.

(Prince Etienne was a native of Bulgaria. He was during ten years Prince of Samos. Latterly, however, he resided at Constantinople, and is high in favour with the Sultan, who for a long time has been accessible to the Prince at any hour; and he is a faithful devoted servant of the Sultan.

One of his daughters is married to our present respected amba.s.sador in London, and it is not necessary for me to inform the reader of the manifold virtues and amiable qualities of this lady; but her father's excellence was such as has obtained for him a notoriety and honour unrivalled in the annals of Mahomedan history. When I was last at Constantinople, a daughter of the prince, a younger sister of our amba.s.sadress, was married to a wealthy gentleman.) To the astonishment and intense gratification of every one present, His Majesty the Sultan attended with his mother at the ceremonial, a most unprecedented act of courtesy, and one least of all to be expected in Turkey, where the extreme fanaticism once existing between the two creeds would, we might have imagined, have raised an insurmountable barrier. What is more remarkable, the Padishah stood up; the prince seeing this, whispered the patriarch to curtail the ceremony. The sharp eyes of the Sultan noticed and understood this hint, and he immediately desired the patriarch to perform the rites as usual, as he was anxious to witness the ceremony fully performed. By departing on occasions such as these from the strict rules and regulations of the Mahomedan code, and by disregarding the reproachful remonstrances of the Ulemas, who are the most determined advocates of perfect uniformity to their doctrines, Sultan Abdul Medjid Khan, has evinced a strong desire to introduce a thorough social reform into his empire, and he has hereby conciliated the good will and gained the affection of his non-Mahomedan subjects. Indeed, among all the present rulers of the world, and especially those whom Providence has endowed with ample means of improving the condition of their subjects, the Sultan occupies a distinguished position; and to him more credit is due for the reforms he has introduced among his people, than to any other sovereign of the civilised globe, and for this evident reason, that in the path he had to follow the greatest difficulties have been met with and overcome; namely, those powerful ones which spring from religious bigotry and prejudice. These he has either overcome or obviated with the utmost wisdom and perseverance. And even her enemies are obliged to confess that Turkey, under the rule of Abdul Medjid, is in a far more vigorous and flourishing condition than they either believed or hoped.

And during the whole of this critical period, in which the affairs of this empire have been agitated, what a n.o.ble example of calm and dignified moderation has both his public and private conduct exhibited.

To the violent and uncourteous menaces of his enemy, and to the extravagant character of his pretensions, he has opposed a conciliating, yet firm line of policy, which has won for him the respect and support of the more intelligent portion of Europe; and when his character becomes better known to the English public, which it will probably in the course of events, I feel convinced it will claim and win all the admiration it deserves from a people whose public judgment is perhaps the most impartial in the world. My object is not to flatter; but I will avow, that I wish by facts and truth to remove some of that prejudice which is more or less a.s.sociated in this country with the idea of a Turk. What I have said concerning my sovereign, is borne out by all intelligent travellers who have recently visited his dominions. For his love of literature-for his liberal patronage of men distinguished by literary or other merit-for his patriotism, evinced in his unceasing endeavours to bestow on his country all the advantages to be derived from modern scientific discovery, and for the amiability and gentleness of his personal character, I feel no hesitation, from what I have read of them, in ranking him with the most distinguished sovereigns of ancient times-with Frederick of Prussia, and I will add Peter the Great. But while he far excels the two last in the amiability of his character and disposition, he equals any of them in his efforts to advance the glory of his country and the welfare of his people.

Owing to the ignorance which prevails in Europe on the subject of Turkey, a great outcry is frequently made by many persons about events which occur in that country, without for one moment taking into consideration the difference in the temperament of the people, arising from their Asiatic origin. Our great cause of surprise, is the sudden rise of individuals in comparatively indigent circ.u.mstances to places of great power. When, however, it is considered that the Orientals view the various grades of society in another light to the Western Europeans, the sudden aggrandis.e.m.e.nt of individuals from the lower cla.s.ses will cease to be a matter of surprise. In Turkey, men of the n.o.blest birth mix indiscriminately with all ranks, and he who is possessed of wealth, talent, or interest, may rise to offices of the greatest trust; and, as "knowledge is power," I can see no reason why talent should not be brought into the notice which it merits. As a proof of the justice and benefit accruing from this system, I may adduce the case of a Kapudan Pasha, whose station in life was very humble, but, being gifted with more than ordinary abilities, he was promoted to the chief command of the Turkish fleet, which was never better managed than whilst under his control. Other instances of a similar character are of frequent occurrence, more particularly in the subordinate departments of the home service. A favourite eunuch, or the brother of a Georgian or Circa.s.sian concubine or wife, has had honours suddenly and most unexpectedly showered upon him in the civil and military service; and there are at this date many pashas of both services, who owe their rise to similar unforeseen but fortuitous circ.u.mstances. It is true, many of these can neither read nor write, but they are possessed of great power of discernment, and are accompanied by two or three individuals who possess sufficient education to carry out the views of their leader in a becoming manner. A good secretary, generally an Armenian, is an indispensable requisite.

The evil arises here in the choice of the subordinates; who, if they be of a bigotted and selfish turn of mind, the benevolent intentions of the government are but imperfectly carried out, or frustrated in spite of the most strenuous efforts.

Sultan Abdul Medjid, and his ministers, {178} deserve the highest credit for the various attempts which have at different times been made, to introduce a thorough reform into the financial system of the Porte. It is undoubtedly a herculean task, for I do not believe that there has ever existed in any country in the world, so perfect and general a system of corruption and extortion, on the part of the inferior officials. Though not oppressive in themselves, the taxes levied upon the people have, in consequence, become an intolerable yoke. Every village and individual taxed generally pays much more than the legitimate amount ordered to be levied by the government. The emirs and district governors, the sheikhs, kekhiahs, and heads of the tribes, live upon the villagers, and oblige the poor tenant-farmers to furnish their establishments with horses and servants, and practise other extortions. To meet these urgent exactions, the poor villagers are obliged annually to raise loans guaranteed on the ensuing season's crops at a most usurious rate of interest, as high as from twenty-five to thirty-five and forty per cent. per annum, either from wealthy Jews, Armenians, or Greeks, and formerly even many of the proteges of the different European consulates took advantage of this state of things, and fattened upon the misfortunes and miseries of the poor peasants, over whom they rode roughshod. The existence of so terrible an evil could not long remain unknown to the inquiring mind of the Sultan, and though his sources of correct information have necessarily been meagre, he acquired an insight into it, sufficient to convince him of the necessity for a change. Accordingly, he ordered certain taxes to be abolished, others to be reduced; and he, above all, is endeavouring to organise an honest and simple system of collection.

To this end all his ministers and employes have been obliged, before taking office, to promise, upon oath, to discharge their several duties impartially and justly; above all, not to receive bribes in any shape.

He has been foiled to a great extent in these attempts; and hence may be derived the clearest and simplest explanation of the financial embarra.s.sments of his government. _Apropos_ of this, I may quote from the letter of a friend, which has just come to hand.

"Everybody seems to imagine that the speedy downfall of Turkey is inevitable, that its doom is all but sealed, and that she is pa.s.sing as rapidly as she can into the hands of Russia. But it ought to be well known in Western Europe, that the so-much-talked-of balance of power in the East, cannot be thus so easily or so recklessly sacrificed by the two great powers, England and France. The jealousy of these powers is a sufficient safeguard for Turkey; and they will protect her from any aggression on the part of Russia or Austria on her rights and territory; and it is to me evident that Russia's long course of policy with regard to the Ottoman empire in Turkey, will be frustrated from a quarter whence she may least expect it."

That which, in my opinion, establishes the resources and vitality of the Turkish empire is, that if one of the serious struggles to which it has been exposed for the last forty years, were to have happened to any other power, it would either have crippled it or caused its entire destruction.

Turkey, on the contrary, has, during this s.p.a.ce of time, experienced the severest trials, as, for instance, the Greek revolution, the destruction of the Janissaries in 1826 (who at that time const.i.tuted her army), the annihilation of her fleet at Navarino, the protracted war with Russia, the civil war with Egypt, and the many partial outbreaks caused by the machinations of European powers; in spite of all these, so far from sinking, Turkey, at this time possesses, besides irregular troops and auxiliaries, a regular and well-disciplined army and a splendid fleet, and is endeavouring still further to increase, and re-establish peace, and internal security; and also to find the best means of enriching her treasury without burdening her subjects; and I trust, that, under the beneficial government of the present benign Sultan, and his enlightened ministers (in spite of the fanatical party), Turkey will yet make great progress in civilisation and all its concomitant blessings. At least, if she does not, it will not be for want of exertion on the part of Abdul Medjid to introduce into his empire a thorough reform, himself setting an example to his subjects of forbearance and goodly feeling towards the many sects dwelling within the boundaries of his empire. The truth of these views has been amply proved by the gallant resistance offered by Turkey at the present crisis to the unjust aggressions of Russia.

Just before leaving Constantinople, a circ.u.mstance occurred which created quite a sensation amongst all cla.s.ses and creeds. An Armenian girl, the daughter of very respectable parents, formed a secret attachment to a young Moslem, in the service of the Sultan. The lovers managed to contrive interviews without exciting the suspicion of the girl's friends; and eventually the girl fled to her lover, embraced the Mahommedan faith, and was regularly married to him. Sometime after they had been married, the young girl went to call upon her mother, most probably without her husband's consent. The mother and all her relations bemoaning with many tears her apostasy, implored of the girl not to return to her husband, but to be received once again into her mother church. The girl, overcome by emotion for the moment, yielded a ready consent; and for her better security, it was agreed that she should be placed within the Armenian asylum. This was accordingly done, and the husband made vain search for his missing bride. Meanwhile the young lady got tired of her confinement, and very possibly of the treatment she received from the over-zealous attendants at the asylum, and accordingly contrived, through the window of the room where she was confined, to convey a message to her husband. The husband immediately complained to the authorities; who without delay demanded the girl of the bishop. The prelate at first denied any knowledge of the person in question. A military force was then sent to bring her away at any hazard; and a parley commenced between the commandant and the bishop, in which the latter gave his _parole d'honneur_, that if the troops were withdrawn he would conduct the girl himself next day before the divan, and she should there declare publicly, which of the two faiths she of her own free will would wish to embrace.

Meanwhile the amba.s.sadors of all European powers had exerted themselves on the woman's behalf, but all to no purpose. Next day she was brought up trembling before the divan, to answer the important question about to be put her. Most of the European authorities were present, and so was the husband; and no sooner did her eye meet his again, than all her resolution failed her; and so powerful was the effect of her love, that she relinquished parents, family, friends, creed, and nation, all for his sake; and when asked the question, to which creed she gave the preference, her reply was-"_I am a Moslem_, _the wife of a Moslem_, _and I will live and die as such_." This settled the affair at once. The Turk took his wife to his house back again, and the poor bishop sorrowfully withdrew, lamenting as he went along the unfavourable result of the affair.

Before quitting the subject of my sojourn at Stamboul, I cannot forget the great kindness I received from Alfred Churchill, the proprietor of the Turkish newspaper, "Djeridei Havadis," which he supplies with translations, by himself, of the leading topics of European news.

The father of this gentleman was an English merchant established there.

Being very fond of shooting, it happened one day that on sport intent, he crossed to seek his game on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus-I would observe that a prejudice exists among the more bigoted natives against Europeans crossing the straits-our gallant sportsman was also unfortunately somewhat short-sighted, and as one does not commonly shoot in spectacles, nor employ that species of eye-gla.s.s which some of the young English ladies are so fond of bringing to bear upon any object of their curiosity, the natural consequence was that Mr. Churchill fell into a misadventure, and unluckily wounded a Turkish child. This of course, brought the relations and friends, and indeed the whole neighbourhood upon him, who attacked him with sticks, stones, and slippers, and anything at hand. After half killing him, they dragged him off to prison. This was a natural, perhaps a deserved, punishment for going about and taking bad aims in dangerous localities.

His amba.s.sador made a dreadful noise about this mishap. Colonel --- was sent from England to enquire into the circ.u.mstances, who very fairly reported that our friend was certainly wrong, considering the state of his vision, to be shooting near the place, and the Turks were also to blame for the manner of their attack.

But the government of Turkey, after all the trouble and correspondence it caused them, n.o.bly and generously allowed him a reparation, namely, the privilege of trading duty free in salt, which put several thousands into his pocket.