I am tempted to close this chapter with the following lament of a lover over the grave of his mistress, literally translated from the Arabic.

I.

Alas! and ah well a-day, that my rose-faced love, my intimate, my soul's companion, should be enveloped in her shroud! That tongue, once familiar, with so many languages, gives utterance now to none. I listen vainly and am astonished not to hear thy once-loved voice.

II.

Tell me, O Grave, tell me, is her incomparable beauty gone? Has she, too, faded, as the petals fall from the sweetest flower, and her lovely face changed-changed and gone! Thou art not a garden, O Grave; nor yet heaven; still all the fairest flowers and the brightest plants are culled by thee.

III.

O black, mysterious Ground, tell me how or wherefore have we sinned, that thou art p.r.o.ne to hug the beautiful, the chaste, the rare-and yet so cold thy love. Stones alone hast thou for pillows for the tender, the loved, the fair.

IV.

O Ground-confusion to thy face!-think not the treasure that is withering in thy grasp is thine. O no! Thank G.o.d, her soul, her immortality, is far beyond thy reach.

V.

Earth, unfeeling Earth, thy heart is adamant; nor hope nor pity find a place in thee. Yet seeds sown in thy bosom spring up as flowers beautiful and rare. Without thee, a solitary soul-a blank is the world to me-nor merry laugh nor cheerful glance has now a charm.

VI.

Sometimes I weep alone to think that I have lost thy love for ever-and then, oh! bitterly weep to see thy mother's furrowed brow-full well she feels the treasure lost-the young child and the beautiful. I marvel not, angel, that thou art gone-for heaven were better fitted for thy home than earth; but I marvel that we can live yet awhile on earth-live without thy smile.

VII.

And thou who couldst barely resist the cold-thy fate is hard-nor friend to whisper comfort, nor careful eye to watch-in thy cold, solitary, mysterious grave-none can give comfort. But how foolish! I speak to dust. Thy soul, thank G.o.d! is far beyond the hurt of man or evil spirit.

CHAPTER XV.

SYRIA AND HER INHABITANTS.

In this chapter I shall endeavour to take a brief review of the country and people-the drawback to the advancement and welfare of the latter-and the inducements held out by the former for colonisation by emigrants-with the mutual benefits accruing therefrom.

That portion of the Turkish dominions which lies to the southward of Tyre, and includes all the country comprised within the boundary limits of Gaza and Hebron to the south, and Tyre to the north, is with very few exceptions, an uncultivated waste, owing, not to the want of fertility of soil, but to the indolence of its inhabitants. The sea-ports, or roadsteads, are at all seasons of the year open and exposed, and in the winter months dangerous in the extreme for shipping; in proof of this, I have only to cite the many shipwrecks which have occurred within the last few years at Jaffa and Caipha. Gaza has only, during the present year, risen into notice, few English schooners having arrived at Belfast direct from that port, deeply laden with grain. But the roadstead of Gaza is perilous for vessels at all seasons of the year, as the wind blows in sh.o.r.e; the holding ground is bad; the inducements held out to commerce very small; the inhabitants lazy and impoverished; little or no consumption for seaport goods and British manufactures (the natives of the villages in the interior restricting themselves to clothing which is made of coa.r.s.e stuffs manufactured by themselves or imported from Egypt); the desert no field for speculations; and such little European produce as finds its way into the interior being carried thither by petty retail merchants, natives, who supply themselves with an annual stock from the ofttimes glutted market of Beyrout. With respect to the export trade, the south of Palestine supplies abundance of wheat, sessame, and other grain; but the quality of much of this grain is superior to that produced in Asia Minor.

The people inhabiting these southern parts of Palestine are almost a distinct race from their brethren farther north; in manners and customs, and even in complexion and stature, differing materially from the northern Syrian: the great heat of the climate and the general scarcity of water rendering them an indolent and careless people, sadly lacking in cleanliness, and without spirit or energy to make any exertions for the amelioration of their wretched condition. After leaving Tyre, and as we proceeded south, mulberry-plantations quickly disappear; thus the one grand staple commodity is wanting, and the occupation of rearing the silkworm, at once a healthy and amusing pastime and a lucrative labour, is denied the inhabitants of Southern Palestine. With hard manual labour, privation, and exposure to intense heat, and all the evils of comparative serfdom, they have no pleasurable recreations to lighten the arduous pursuits of their every-day avocations: the plough and the spade-the spade and the plough-incessant toil and small recompense-unwillingess to work, yet goaded to it by dire necessity, the pangs of starvation, or the chastis.e.m.e.nts inflicted by unrelenting landlords and landowners. Such is their unhappy lot.

Their huts are miserable, their children squalid and unhealthy; they toil through a life of troubles and sorrows, and have the poor satisfaction of knowing that they are possessed of no benefits which might, in after-years, accrue to their children's advantage. From generation to generation they live and die, are born and given in marriage, but the tenure of their serfdom is still the same. They are nominally free subjects of an enlightened government, but virtually the slaves of circ.u.mstances, groaning under the petty chiefs and subordinate understrappers of government, who have yet to learn submission to the will and mandates of the present excellent Sultan, Abdul Medjid Khan, whose reign has already been distinguished by many great improvements in the condition of the Christian population. Many of the firmans issued of late years have not as yet come into force in the interior of Turkey, and in those possessions of the Ottoman empire situated farthest from the sea-ports. In the course of some years it is, however, to be hoped, that the most remote villages will be benefited by the improvements made in Western Europe.

The disposition of the natives of Southern Palestine has a tinge of sullen moroseness in it, which has doubtless been ingrafted in it from generation to generation; there is nothing _couleur-de-rose_ in their sphere of life and action; and the superst.i.tion they inherit from their ancestors is not that pure and lovely religion of Christ which can cast a halo around, whilst it strengthens, encourages, and supports in the darkest hours of affliction and woe. It may be, that, under better auspices-could the people be brought to have a common interest in their own and each other's welfare, were there less animosity and party feeling existing between the various creeds, could they be brought to nurture less of deadly malice and hatred towards each other, all combining in one common cause with a mutual good understanding-the fate of Southern Palestine and its prevailing feature of sterile barrenness might be changed. The country, people, and climate, might yield to the introduction of agriculture and other improvements, and be materially bettered-if land were meted out in portions with a sure guarantee to the cultivator that his toil and labour would eventually be recompensed by his reaping some fruits for himself from the sweat of his brow to benefit his children-were the lower cla.s.ses of the Moslems less avaricious, the Jews less despised, the Christians less exposed to the grinding system of the land-owners and admitted to reap fair profits from the fields they plough and the gardens they cultivate for their wealthier and more powerful masters; then, peradventure, the sea-coast and the cities near and round about Jerusalem would gradually re-a.s.sume a right to that blessed t.i.tle which ascribed to its countries the appellation of a land rich indeed, and flowing with milk and honey. But alas for the land of Canaan! the portion of the tribe of Judah is become an unsightly wilderness; and of Zion it may be truly said, "Thy house is left unto thee desolate."

From Gaza to Tyre the whole line of sea-coast is inhabited by people who, with the exception of Jaffa, Caipha, and Acre, are professionally goatherds and farmers-a simple people that subsist chiefly upon milk and cheese, with fruit and vegetables, and who are merely the hirelings of the owners of the large flocks committed to their charge. These goats furnish the surrounding country with the only palatable meat to be procured in these hot regions. Mutton is scarce, and beef seldom heard of; hence poultry and goats are the staple commodity of the meat-market.

A young kid of a year's growth is up to this very day often chosen as a choice delicacy. Who does not call to mind the crafty art of Rebecca in seasoning the well-flavoured dish so as to make it vie with the tenderest venison? A kid, seasoned with spice and stuffed with sweet herbs, rice, and the kernel of the fine fruit (at the very recollection of which I hunger), is the festive dish of every house in Palestine on seasons of mirth and great rejoicings. The father of the newly-married bridegroom, tottering from extreme old age, will issue forth from the festive board after having partaken of this delicacy, with a face radiant with smiles and contentment, pouring forth blessings on him that prepared the savoury meat.

It is seldom now-a-days that men die of extreme old age and debility in the countries round about Jerusalem; but where such instances occur, and where the faculties are retained to the last, and the human functions are in full operation, then rest a.s.sured, that the tent scene in Isaac's last closing moments-so beautifully portrayed in the Holy Scriptures-is still vividly re-acted up to this very day, with the sole exception perhaps of the deceit practised by Jacob and his mother, which omission may solely arise from the fact that the children of this world have now become wiser in their generation, and are no longer to be imposed upon by such simple and rude artifices.

But in their poverty and misery, the children of Southern Syria must bow the neck meekly to the yoke till a brighter day dawns from above upon their affliction, and till the curse is removed and the blessing of the Almighty shall descend, like the rich dew of Hermon, upon their country and themselves, and more than amply recompense them for centuries of suffering and woe. They must remember the words spoken by the prophet Isaiah-"O a.s.syrian, the rod of mine anger, and the staff in their hand is mine indignation."

With Sidon the whole face of the country changes, and here commences that luxuriant and verdant pasturage and foliage, which continue increasing as we progress to the northward and may be said to reach a climax of beauty and profuse richness in the districts of Lebanon, Tripoli, Lattakia, and Antioch. Vast mulberry plantations, orchards of delicious fruits, and vineyards covered with an endless variety of grapes, everywhere delight the eye. At those spots where the soil is untilled, and up the lofty sides of the mountains, grow the cypress, the majestic oak, the stately fir, and the lofty pine; every inch of ground being thickly covered with wild flowers, blackberry bushes, the white rose, and the training honey-suckle, all which, with the fresh odours of the country, recall forcibly to the mind the words of the prophet Hosea, "his smell is as Lebanon."

"-Through the gra.s.s The quick-eyed lizard rustles, and the trills Of summer birds sing welcome as ye pa.s.s; Flowers fresh in hue, and many in their dyes, Dance in the soft breeze in a fairy ma.s.s; The sweetness of the violet's deep-blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, seems colour'd by its skies."

In the neighbourhood of Sidon, even the rare exotic banana has now been reared with success, its large and handsome leaves and cl.u.s.tering golden fruit being a source of wonder and admiration to the Syrian who is a stranger to that neighbourhood. Here also commences that plentiful supply of clear, crystal water which so materially adds to the beauty of the scenery, makes cleanliness and comfort a cheap luxury to the inhabitants, and as a natural consequence, proportionably benefits the health of the natives. Children grow up surrounded by the choicest gifts of a bountiful Providence, and their young and tender hearts are moulded in a meeker and more gentle frame; their labour is more congenial to their const.i.tution and habits, and the smallest exertion is quickly recompensed by a grateful and fruitful return. The shade of many trees affords them a welcome shelter; the waters of many cool streams are at hand to quench their slightest thirst; and the choice fruits of a hundred orchards, maturing to ripeness, afford them a luxurious repast. Besides these, the cattle and poultry are more plentiful, and of a better sort, and the pasturages are thickly dotted with flocks of fine healthy sheep, and milch cows in abundance. The result of all these blessings is, that the inhabitants are a healthier, wealthier, and a more cheerful race than the people of Southern Palestine; and the vast supply of honey gathered from the wild honey-combs in the neighbouring mountains, and the excessive cheapness and excellence of milk renders this portion of Syria the land "flowing with milk and honey" of the present day.

Oh that I were possessed of sufficient eloquence to prove to that great ma.s.s of people who are emigrating from the British isles to the far distant sh.o.r.es of Australia and North America, the fallacy of the opinion, so universally entertained by some English, with regard to the risk and danger incurred by those possessed of lands within the limits of the Turkish dominions! Would that I could divest them of the idea usually run away with by Englishmen, that they would be exposing their lives and property to the will and pleasure of ferocious three-tailed pashas, such as they have read of in books of travels, dated nearly half a century back, and whose detestable names and memory are now handed down to posterity in tales and Eastern ballads.

The real state of the Turkish empire is quite the reverse to what these good people imagine, and of late years any European, particularly since the siege of Acre, and an Englishman especially, commands universal respect from all the inhabitants of Syria, rich or poor, Christian or Jew. There may be, perhaps, a few of the more bigoted beys and n.o.bles, who, wishing to remain in undisturbed possession of their wealth, and the monopoly of land and labour, would regard the advent of enlightened strangers as likely to be an infringement on their position, dignity, and independence; but their rage and jealousy would prove as impotent as it would be contemptible.

It is, moreover, difficult to satisfy Europeans, especially Englishmen, that they can make safe investments in the Turkish dominions; but it is only requisite to enquire into the tenure of all sorts of property as held by Europeans in every part of Turkey for many years, to shew that their vested rights have never been questioned, and that when any injury or loss was proved to have been sustained to any such property, the official representative of the owner had only to submit his claim, and in every instance full and satisfactory redress was instantly afforded; and I may refer, in proof of this, to an instance which occurred some years ago of losses sustained by the French Factory, on Mount Lebanon, owing to irregularities and outrages on the part of the petty local authorities, and others, for which ample indemnification was given.

I may state, as an additional confirmation, the case of the Rev. Goodall, the American Missionary, who was plundered by the soldiers during the Greek piratical invasion of Beyrout, to which I have before alluded. As soon as quiet was re-established, the Consul applied to the Pasha for a rest.i.tution of the stolen property, or a tantamount value. A list was made out, and so punctilious was the Pasha, that even a fowl, that had been ready trussed for roasting, was included amongst the missing articles, and every farthing was paid down out of the Government treasury. And this is the case in most instances where a European is the aggrieved party; the Governor of the district will be sure to see justice done him and the Treasury is ent.i.tled to collect the sum disbursed from the heads of the villages in the immediate neighbourhood where the theft was committed. This answers a double end; it satisfies the injured party, and ensures almost to a certainty the capture of the felon, for all the villagers are on the watch to discover the rogue that has brought on them such a taxation.

Europeans hold property after this manner, viz., they authorise a friend who is a subject of the Sultan, in whom they can place implicit confidence, to buy or purchase such and such a house or landed property in his own name; then he makes a transfer of the t.i.tles to such property to the European in lieu of some imaginary debt, usually a sum far exceeding the value of the property itself. This transfer is made in the Cadi's, or Chief Judge's Court; and being registered, becomes valid in Turkish law, and is legally recognised as such. It is thus that the oldest vested European interests in Turkey are secured and possessed, and handed down to the lawful heirs of the European proprietors.

In respect both to the character of the Turks, and their kindly disposition towards strangers, I cannot do better than give a quotation from an interesting work by J. C. Monk, Esq., who has very recently visited the country, in order to ill.u.s.trate their friendliness and amiability. He says-

"For my own part I look back with unmixed pleasure and gratification to the brief period of my sojourn among the Turks. Their hospitality to strangers, as well as their charity to the poor, and to each other in distress, has never been questioned. From the Pasha in his palace, and from the peasant in his hut, I have received kindness and hospitality.

They are not inquisitive in demanding the business or occasion which brings a stranger to their doors, as such he is welcome; as he came, so may he depart; no present is required, and rarely is it expected; no questions are asked; attentive to the wants and comforts of his guests, the Turk seems to forget his natural _insouciance_ until the departure of the stranger, when in return for his salutation he wishes him "G.o.d speed."

Of one thing I am certain, and that is, that the middling and poorer cla.s.ses would hail the arrival of English emigrants with rapturous delight; and in stating this, I am not without antecedents to prove what I a.s.sert. I might instance the case of the late lamented and excellent Mr. John Barker, who, for many years, lived amongst the wildest and most bigoted portion of the natives of Northern Syria (at least, they were so when he first went amongst them); go now and ask whomsoever you will-the richest or the poorest-their opinion of the English, and, as if with one voice, they will reply-that, taking Mr. Barker as a standard, they consider them the best, most charitable, and most enlightened people that inhabit the earth-the best friends and staunchest supporters of the Sultan-and a people that they would gladly see settled around them.

Let us quietly argue both sides of the question; and perhaps as an objection to start with, the reader may urge, that, in the instance above quoted, the gentleman who thus settled in Syria was a wealthy retired Consul-General, possessing, _for that country_, an income equal to, if not exceeding, that of the most important Pasha in Syria, and that, therefore, apart from his wealth, the high official position he had occupied in Egypt and Aleppo, was a sufficient reason to command esteem and respect among the natives; also in the cases of Col. Churchill, who possesses large estates in the mountains, and is most active in his exertions for the spiritual enlightenment and temporal improvement of the people, that of Lady Hester Stanhope, and other Europeans. This may be correct to a certain extent, but is false in the main. Of that unfortunate lady, who once ruled with almost absolute power, the wild Arabs of the desert, the only traces that remain, are the few crumbling ruins of her humble abode at Djouni; her very name is almost forgotten, and her sun of life sunk behind the cloud of obscurity. But why was this? Simply because she lavished her money, when she had any, in vain paraphernalia, and gave large sums, as _backshish_, to unprincipled men, who had no sooner spent the money, than they forgot the patroness. Had she employed her time and means in buying land and cultivating it, introducing useful arts, etc., then her memento would have been lasting, and the boon conferred handed down from generation to generation. Mr.