Hoksbergen Apartments Singel 301 020/626 6043, Singel 301 020/626 6043, www.hotelhoksbergen.nl. Apartments sleeping up to five from 120.

Accommodation

Camping There are a number of campsites campsites on the peripheries of Amsterdam, most of them readily accessible by car or public transport. Those listed are two of the more established and central options. on the peripheries of Amsterdam, most of them readily accessible by car or public transport. Those listed are two of the more established and central options.

Accommodation

Camping Camping

Campsites Vliegenbos Meeuwenlaan 138 020/636 8855, Meeuwenlaan 138 020/636 8855, www.vliegenbos.com. Bus #32 or #33 from CS or take the ferry to Buiksloterweg and allow a 15min walk; drivers take Exit S116 off the A10. A relaxed and friendly site, just a ten-minute bus ride into Amsterdam North from Centraal Station. Facilities include a general shop, bar and restaurant. Rates start at 8.30 per night per person with hot showers included. There are also huts with bunk beds and basic cooking facilities for 72.50 per night for four people; phone ahead to check availability. Car parking is 8.30. Under-16s need to be accompanied by an adult; no pets. Open AprilSept.

Zeeburg Zuider IJdijk 20 020/694 4430, Zuider IJdijk 20 020/694 4430, www.campingzeeburg.nl. Tram #26 from CS to Zuiderzeeweg, then a 10min walk; drivers take Exit S114 off the A10. Well-equipped campsite in the Eastern docklands with a bar, restaurant, laundry, kayak and bicycle rental, plus lots of green fields. Tent pitches cost 5 in addition to a 5.50 charge per person per night, and 5 for a car. Two-berth cabins cost 40 and four-berth 80, including bed linen. Open all year.

Eating and drinking Amsterdam may not be Europe's gastronomic centre, but the food food in the average Dutch restaurant has improved by leaps and bounds in recent years, and there are a great number of places serving good, often inventive, home-grown cuisine. The city also boasts a wide range of ethnic restaurants, especially Indonesian, Chinese and Thai, as well as numerous cafes and bars often known as in the average Dutch restaurant has improved by leaps and bounds in recent years, and there are a great number of places serving good, often inventive, home-grown cuisine. The city also boasts a wide range of ethnic restaurants, especially Indonesian, Chinese and Thai, as well as numerous cafes and bars often known as eetcafes eetcafes that serve adventurous, reasonably priced food in a relaxed and unpretentious setting. Amsterdam is also, of course, a great place for a that serve adventurous, reasonably priced food in a relaxed and unpretentious setting. Amsterdam is also, of course, a great place for a drink drink; the Netherlands' proximity to the great beer-drinking nation of Belgium the birthplace of modern beer helps explain the variety on offer.

The city is filled to the gunnels with dining and drinking options, and you should have no trouble finding somewhere convenient and enjoyable to suit your budget. On Thursday, Friday and Sat.u.r.day nights it's advisable to start early (between 6pm & 7pm), or make a reservation, if you want to get a table at any of the more popular restaurants restaurants. If you just want lunch, or a bite between sights, there are plenty of places throughout the city cafes and tearooms cafes and tearooms where you can just grab a cup of coffee and a sandwich or light lunch. where you can just grab a cup of coffee and a sandwich or light lunch. Bars Bars almost always serve sandwiches, and usually something more substantial as well; those that serve good-quality food are indicated in the listings. almost always serve sandwiches, and usually something more substantial as well; those that serve good-quality food are indicated in the listings.

Dutch meal times are a little idiosyncratic; breakfast tends to be later than you might expect, and other meals tend to be eaten earlier. If you choose to eat breakfast breakfast away from your hotel, you'll find very few cafes open before 8am or 8.30am. The standard Dutch away from your hotel, you'll find very few cafes open before 8am or 8.30am. The standard Dutch lunch lunch hour is from noon to 1pm; most restaurants are at their busiest at hour is from noon to 1pm; most restaurants are at their busiest at dinner dinner, between 7pm and 8pm, and mostly stop serving by 10 or 10.30pm.

Dutch food tends to be higher in protein content than in variety; steak, chicken and fish, along with filling soups and stews, are staples, usually served up in substantial quant.i.ties. At its best, though, it can be excellent, with many restaurants, and even bars and eetcafes eetcafes, offering increasingly adventurous crossovers with French and Mediterranean cuisine, at reasonable prices.

With Amsterdam's singular approach to the sale and consumption of cannabis, you might choose to enjoy a joint after your meal, rather than a beer; included in this section is a selection of "coffeeshops" where you can buy gra.s.s or hash. Be aware that, due to recent legislation, smoking tobacco inside bars and coffeeshops is no longer permitted, although tobacco subst.i.tutes and pure joints are still available.

Bars, cafes and restaurants are marked on the colour maps and listed in the index at the back of the book.

Eating and drinking

Breakfast In all but the cheapest and the most expensive of hotels, breakfast breakfast ( (ontbijt) will be included in the price of the room. Though usually nothing fancy, it's always substantial; rolls, cheese, ham, hard-boiled eggs, jam and honey or peanut b.u.t.ter are the princ.i.p.al ingredients. Many bars and cafes serve rolls and sandwiches in similar mode, although few open much before 8am or 8.30am.

Dutch coffee coffee is normally good and strong, served with a little tub of is normally good and strong, served with a little tub of koffiemelk koffiemelk (evaporated milk); ordinary milk is rarely used. If you want coffee with warm milk, ask for a (evaporated milk); ordinary milk is rarely used. If you want coffee with warm milk, ask for a koffie verkeerd koffie verkeerd. Tea generally comes with lemon if anything; if you want milk you have to ask for it. Chocolate (chocomel) is also popular, hot or cold; for a real treat, drink it hot with a layer of fresh whipped cream (slagroom) on top. Some cafes also sell aniseed-flavoured warm milk (anijsmelk).

Eating and drinking

Snacks and sandwiches Dutch fast food fast food has its own peculiarities. Chips/fries ( has its own peculiarities. Chips/fries (friet or or patat patat) are the most common standby. Vlaamse Vlaamse or "Flemish-style", sprinkled with salt and smothered with lashings of mayonnaise ( or "Flemish-style", sprinkled with salt and smothered with lashings of mayonnaise (frietsaus), are the best, and other accompaniments include curry, goulash, tomato or sate sate (peanut) sauce. If you just want salt, ask for (peanut) sauce. If you just want salt, ask for patat zonder patat zonder; fries with salt and mayonnaise are patat met patat met. You'll also come across kroketten kroketten spiced minced meat (usually either veal or beef), covered with breadcrumbs and deep-fried and spiced minced meat (usually either veal or beef), covered with breadcrumbs and deep-fried and fricandel fricandel, a frankfurter-like sausage. All these are available over the counter at pungent fast-food places, or, for a euro or so, from coin-op heated gla.s.s compartments on the street and in train stations.

Much tastier are the fish fish specialities sold by street vendors, which are good as a snack or a light lunch see " specialities sold by street vendors, which are good as a snack or a light lunch see "Restaurants". Another snack you'll see everywhere is shwarma shwarma or or sh.o.a.rma sh.o.a.rma another name for a doner kebab: shavings of lamb pressed into a pitta bread sold in numerous Middle Eastern restaurants and takeaways for about 4. Other, less common, street foods include another name for a doner kebab: shavings of lamb pressed into a pitta bread sold in numerous Middle Eastern restaurants and takeaways for about 4. Other, less common, street foods include pancakes pancakes ( (pannenkoeken), sweet or spicy, also widely available at restaurants; waffles (stroopwafels), doused with syrup; and, in November and December, oliebollen oliebollen, greasy doughnuts sometimes filled with fruit (often apple) or custard (known as a Berliner Berliner) and traditionally eaten on New Year's Eve.

Bars often serve sandwiches and rolls sandwiches and rolls ( (boterham and and broodjes broodjes) mostly open, and varying from a slice of tired cheese on old bread to something so embellished it's almost a complete meal as well as more substantial dishes. A sandwich made with French bread is known as a s...o...b..ood s...o...b..ood. In the winter, erwtensoep erwtensoep (or (or snert snert) thick pea soup with smoked sausage, served with smoked bacon on pumpernickel is available in many bars, and for about 5 a bowl makes a cheap but hearty lunch. Alternatively, there's the uitsmijter uitsmijter (a "kicker-out", derived from the practice of serving it at dawn after an all-night party to prompt guests to depart); now widely available at all times of day, it comprises one, two, or three fried eggs on b.u.t.tered bread, topped with a choice of ham, cheese or roast beef; at about 56, it's another good budget lunch option. (a "kicker-out", derived from the practice of serving it at dawn after an all-night party to prompt guests to depart); now widely available at all times of day, it comprises one, two, or three fried eggs on b.u.t.tered bread, topped with a choice of ham, cheese or roast beef; at about 56, it's another good budget lunch option.

Eating and drinking

Snacks and sandwiches Snacks and sandwiches

Dutch cheese Dutch cheeseDutch cheeses cheeses have a somewhat unjustified reputation abroad for being bland and rubbery, but in fact they can be delicious, even if there isn't the variety you find in, say, France or Britain. Most Dutch cheeses vary little from the familiar pale yellow, semi-soft have a somewhat unjustified reputation abroad for being bland and rubbery, but in fact they can be delicious, even if there isn't the variety you find in, say, France or Britain. Most Dutch cheeses vary little from the familiar pale yellow, semi-soft Gouda Gouda, within which differences in taste come from the varying stages of maturity: jonge jonge (young) cheese has a mild flavour, (young) cheese has a mild flavour, belegen belegen (mature) has a fuller flavour, while (mature) has a fuller flavour, while oude oude (old) can be pungent and strong, with a grainy, flaky texture. Generally, the older they get, the saltier they are. Best-known among the other cheeses is (old) can be pungent and strong, with a grainy, flaky texture. Generally, the older they get, the saltier they are. Best-known among the other cheeses is Edam Edam, also semi-soft in texture but slightly creamier than Gouda; it's usually shaped into b.a.l.l.s and coated in red wax ready for export it's not eaten much in the Netherlands. Leidse Leidse is simply a bland Gouda laced with c.u.min or caraway seeds, with most of its flavour coming from the seeds; is simply a bland Gouda laced with c.u.min or caraway seeds, with most of its flavour coming from the seeds; Maasdam Maasdam is a Dutch version of Emmental or Jarlsberg: strong, creamy and full of holes, sold under brand names such as Leerdammer and Maasdammer; you'll also come across Dutch-made Emmental and Gruyere. The Dutch like their cheese in thin slices, cut with a cheese slicer rather than in large chunks. is a Dutch version of Emmental or Jarlsberg: strong, creamy and full of holes, sold under brand names such as Leerdammer and Maasdammer; you'll also come across Dutch-made Emmental and Gruyere. The Dutch like their cheese in thin slices, cut with a cheese slicer rather than in large chunks.Amsterdam has several specialist cheese shops cheese shops and there's also a good range of cheeses on sale at the Sat.u.r.day farmers' market on the Noordermarkt (9am1pm). Finally, Amsterdam is within easy striking distance of two world-famous cheese markets, one at and there's also a good range of cheeses on sale at the Sat.u.r.day farmers' market on the Noordermarkt (9am1pm). Finally, Amsterdam is within easy striking distance of two world-famous cheese markets, one at Edam Edam, the other at Alkmaar Alkmaar.

Eating and drinking

Cakes and biscuits Dutch cakes and biscuits cakes and biscuits are always good, best eaten in a are always good, best eaten in a banketbakkerij banketbakkerij (patisserie) with a small serving area; alternatively buy to take away and munch them on the hoof. Top of the list is the ubiquitous Dutch speciality (patisserie) with a small serving area; alternatively buy to take away and munch them on the hoof. Top of the list is the ubiquitous Dutch speciality appelgebak appelgebak chunky, memorably fragrant apple-and-cinnamon pie, served hot in huge wedges, often with whipped cream ( chunky, memorably fragrant apple-and-cinnamon pie, served hot in huge wedges, often with whipped cream (met slagroom). Other sweet nibbles include speculaas speculaas, a crunchy cinnamon cookie with a gingerbread-like texture; stroopwafels stroopwafels, b.u.t.ter wafers sandwiched together with runny syrup; and amandelkoek amandelkoek, cakes with a crisp biscuit outside and melt-in-the-mouth almond paste inside.

Eating and drinking

Full meals The majority of bars serve food everything from sandwiches to a full menu in which case they may be known as eetcafes eetcafes. This type of place is usually open all day, serving both lunch and evening meals. Full-blown restaurants restaurants, on the other hand, tend to open in the evening only, usually from around 5.30pm or 6pm until around 10pm.

If you're on a budget, stick to the dagschotel dagschotel (dish of the day) wherever possible, for which you pay around 12 for a meat or fish dish, with a generous serving of potatoes and other vegetables or salad; note that it's often only served at lunchtime or between 6 and 8pm. Otherwise, you can pay up to 2025 for a meat or fish main course in an average restaurant. (dish of the day) wherever possible, for which you pay around 12 for a meat or fish dish, with a generous serving of potatoes and other vegetables or salad; note that it's often only served at lunchtime or between 6 and 8pm. Otherwise, you can pay up to 2025 for a meat or fish main course in an average restaurant. Vegetarian Vegetarian dining isn't a problem: many dining isn't a problem: many eetcafes eetcafes and restaurants have at least one meat-free dish on the menu, and the city has a scattering of veggie restaurants, offering three-course set meals from about 10. and restaurants have at least one meat-free dish on the menu, and the city has a scattering of veggie restaurants, offering three-course set meals from about 10.

As for foreign cuisines, the Dutch are particularly partial to Indonesian Indonesian food; food; Nasi goreng Nasi goreng and and Bami goreng Bami goreng (rice or noodles with meat) are good basic dishes, though there are normally more exciting items on the menu, some very spicy; chicken or beef in peanut sauce ( (rice or noodles with meat) are good basic dishes, though there are normally more exciting items on the menu, some very spicy; chicken or beef in peanut sauce (sate) is always available. Or you could ask for a rijsttafel rijsttafel a sampler meal, comprising boiled rice and/or noodles served with perhaps ten or twelve small, often spicy dishes and hot a sampler meal, comprising boiled rice and/or noodles served with perhaps ten or twelve small, often spicy dishes and hot sambal sambal sauce on the side. Usually ordered for two or more people, you can reckon on paying around 2025 per person. Surinamese restaurants are much rarer, but they offer a distinctive, essentially Creole cuisine try sauce on the side. Usually ordered for two or more people, you can reckon on paying around 2025 per person. Surinamese restaurants are much rarer, but they offer a distinctive, essentially Creole cuisine try roti roti, flat pancake-like bread served with a spicy curry, hardboiled egg and vegetables. Italian Italian food is ubiquitous, with pizzas and pasta dishes starting at a fairly uniform 10 or so in most places. food is ubiquitous, with pizzas and pasta dishes starting at a fairly uniform 10 or so in most places.

Eating and drinking

Drinks Amsterdam's favourite tipple is beer beer, mostly Pilsener-style lager, usually served in a relatively small measure (just under a half-pint, with a foaming head) ask for een pils een pils. The three leading Dutch brands Amstel, Grolsch and Heineken are worldwide bestsellers, but are available here in considerably more potent formats than the insipid varieties shunted out for export. Different beers come in different gla.s.ses white beer (witbier), which is light, cloudy and served with lemon, has its own tumbler; and most of the speciality Belgian beers have their own distinctive gla.s.ses with stems of different shapes and sizes.

Wine is reasonably priced expect to pay around 7 or so for an average bottle of French white or red in a supermarket, 17 in a restaurant. Most restaurants also stock a large selection of new world wines: mainly Australian, South African and Chilean. As for spirits, is reasonably priced expect to pay around 7 or so for an average bottle of French white or red in a supermarket, 17 in a restaurant. Most restaurants also stock a large selection of new world wines: mainly Australian, South African and Chilean. As for spirits, jenever jenever, Dutch gin, is not unlike English gin but a bit weaker and a little oilier, made from mola.s.ses and flavoured with juniper berries. It's served in a small gla.s.s and is traditionally drunk straight, often knocked back in one gulp with much hearty back-slapping. There are a number of varieties, princ.i.p.ally oude oude (old), which is smooth and mellow, and (old), which is smooth and mellow, and jong jong (young), which packs more of a punch though neither is terribly alcoholic. The older (young), which packs more of a punch though neither is terribly alcoholic. The older jenevers jenevers (including (including zeer oude zeer oude, very old) are a little more expensive but stronger and less oily. Ask for a borreltje borreltje (straight (straight jenever jenever), a bittertje bittertje (with Angostura bitters) or, if you've a sweeter tooth, try a (with Angostura bitters) or, if you've a sweeter tooth, try a bessenjenever bessenjenever blackcurrant-flavoured gin. A gla.s.s of beer with a blackcurrant-flavoured gin. A gla.s.s of beer with a jenever jenever chaser is a chaser is a kopstoot kopstoot.

Other drinks you'll come across include numerous Dutch liqueurs liqueurs, notably advocaat advocaat (eggnog), and the sweet blue (eggnog), and the sweet blue curacao curacao, and an a.s.sortment of lurid fruit brandies fruit brandies, which are best left for experimentation at the end of an evening. There's also the Dutch-produced brandy brandy, Vieux Vieux, which tastes as if it's made from prunes but is in fact grape-based.

Eating and drinking

Bars With every justification, Amsterdam is famous for its traditional, old-style bars or brown cafes brown cafes a a bruin cafe bruin cafe or or bruine kroeg bruine kroeg cosy, intimate places so called because of the dingy colour of their walls, stained by years of tobacco smoke, and their antique-verging-on-rickety furnishings and fittings, again mostly brown. At the other extreme are the slick, pan-European cosy, intimate places so called because of the dingy colour of their walls, stained by years of tobacco smoke, and their antique-verging-on-rickety furnishings and fittings, again mostly brown. At the other extreme are the slick, pan-European designer bars designer bars, sometimes known as "grand cafes", which tend to be as un-brown as possible and geared towards a largely young crowd, though many students are loyal to the brown cafes. In between are a host of bars that pick and mix the old and the new. Bars, of every kind, open open daily at around 10am or 5pm; those that open in the morning do not close at lunchtime, and all stay open until around 1am during the week, 2am at weekends (sometimes until 3am). Another type of drinking spot though there are very few of them left is the tasting house ( daily at around 10am or 5pm; those that open in the morning do not close at lunchtime, and all stay open until around 1am during the week, 2am at weekends (sometimes until 3am). Another type of drinking spot though there are very few of them left is the tasting house (proeflokalen), originally the sampling rooms of small private distillers, now tiny, stand-up places that sell only spirits jenever jenever and often close early, from around 8pm. For listings of and often close early, from around 8pm. For listings of gay bars gay barssee "Gay and lesbian Amsterdam".

Many bars often designated eetcafes eetcafes offer a complete food menu, and most will make you a sandwich or a bowl of soup; at the very least you can snack on hard-boiled eggs from the counter. Those bars that specialize more in food than drink are listed in the " offer a complete food menu, and most will make you a sandwich or a bowl of soup; at the very least you can snack on hard-boiled eggs from the counter. Those bars that specialize more in food than drink are listed in the "Restaurants" section.

Prices are fairly standard everywhere, and the only time you'll pay through the nose is when there's music, or if you're desperate enough to step into the obvious tourist traps around Leidseplein and along the Damrak. Reckon on paying roughly 1.802.20 for a standard-measure small draught beer, 34 or so for wheat and bottled beer, and 3 for a gla.s.s of wine or a shot of are fairly standard everywhere, and the only time you'll pay through the nose is when there's music, or if you're desperate enough to step into the obvious tourist traps around Leidseplein and along the Damrak. Reckon on paying roughly 1.802.20 for a standard-measure small draught beer, 34 or so for wheat and bottled beer, and 3 for a gla.s.s of wine or a shot of jenever jenever.

Locations are marked on the colour maps maps at the back of this book. at the back of this book.

Eating and drinking

Bars Bars

The Old Centre Absinthe Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 171. Small, late-night bas.e.m.e.nt lounge bar, slightly hidden from the street, but in a prime position close to the area's bars and clubs. Not surprisingly, it specializes in absinthe or at least the turn-of-the-twentieth-century decadence that's a.s.sociated with it. DJs at the weekend. Daily from 10pm. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 171. Small, late-night bas.e.m.e.nt lounge bar, slightly hidden from the street, but in a prime position close to the area's bars and clubs. Not surprisingly, it specializes in absinthe or at least the turn-of-the-twentieth-century decadence that's a.s.sociated with it. DJs at the weekend. Daily from 10pm.

[image]In 't Aepjen Zeedijk 1. This building has been a bar since the days when Zeedijk was a haunt for sailors gambling away their last few guilder and having to pay by barter rather than cash. Its name literally "In the Monkeys" refers to the fact that monkeys were once the stock in trade here. There are no monkeys now, but not much else has changed. Zeedijk 1. This building has been a bar since the days when Zeedijk was a haunt for sailors gambling away their last few guilder and having to pay by barter rather than cash. Its name literally "In the Monkeys" refers to the fact that monkeys were once the stock in trade here. There are no monkeys now, but not much else has changed.

De Bekeerde Suster Kloveniersburgwal 6. Don't waste your time in the unappealing bars of the Red Light District proper; this place is a few steps away and offers home-brewed beer, a good bar menu and a very convivial atmosphere, just off the top end of Nieuwmarkt. MonThurs 3pm1am, Fri & Sat noon2am, Sun noonmidnight. Kloveniersburgwal 6. Don't waste your time in the unappealing bars of the Red Light District proper; this place is a few steps away and offers home-brewed beer, a good bar menu and a very convivial atmosphere, just off the top end of Nieuwmarkt. MonThurs 3pm1am, Fri & Sat noon2am, Sun noonmidnight.

Belgique Gravenstraat 2. Tiny and very appealing bar behind the Nieuwe Kerk that specializes in brews from Belgium. Sample them with plates of Dutch and Trappist cheese. Daily 3pm1am. Gravenstraat 2. Tiny and very appealing bar behind the Nieuwe Kerk that specializes in brews from Belgium. Sample them with plates of Dutch and Trappist cheese. Daily 3pm1am.

Blincker St Barberenstraat 7. Squeezed between the top end of Nes and Oudezijds Voorburgwal, this hi-tech theatre bar, all exposed steel and hanging plants, is very nicely done and more comfortable than it looks. Also serves decent food. MonThurs 11am1am, Fri & Sat 11am3am. St Barberenstraat 7. Squeezed between the top end of Nes and Oudezijds Voorburgwal, this hi-tech theatre bar, all exposed steel and hanging plants, is very nicely done and more comfortable than it looks. Also serves decent food. MonThurs 11am1am, Fri & Sat 11am3am.

Bubbles & Wines Nes 37. Over 50 wines available by the gla.s.s in this intimate and elegant wine and champagne bar. The knowledgeable staff will advise you on drinks to suit your taste. MonSat from 3.30pm, Sun from 2pm. Nes 37. Over 50 wines available by the gla.s.s in this intimate and elegant wine and champagne bar. The knowledgeable staff will advise you on drinks to suit your taste. MonSat from 3.30pm, Sun from 2pm.

De Buurvrouw St Pieterspoortsteeg 29. Dark, noisy bar with a wildly eclectic crowd; a great alternative place to head for in the centre. MonThurs 9pm3am, FriSun 9pm4am. St Pieterspoortsteeg 29. Dark, noisy bar with a wildly eclectic crowd; a great alternative place to head for in the centre. MonThurs 9pm3am, FriSun 9pm4am.

Dante Spuistraat 320. A wannabe trendy bar-c.u.m-art gallery right in the heart of the city's densest concentration of watering holes. There are cosier places, but to peruse the art and the people perusing the art it's decent enough. Spuistraat 320. A wannabe trendy bar-c.u.m-art gallery right in the heart of the city's densest concentration of watering holes. There are cosier places, but to peruse the art and the people perusing the art it's decent enough.

Diep Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 256. Not much more than an ordinary brown cafe during the day, but a hip hangout with DJs at night. MonThurs 5pm1am, FriSun 5am3am. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 256. Not much more than an ordinary brown cafe during the day, but a hip hangout with DJs at night. MonThurs 5pm1am, FriSun 5am3am.

Het Doktertje Roozenboomsteeg 4. Small, dark, brown cafe with stained gla.s.s to keep you from being ogled by the world outside. Liqueurs fill the shelves behind the tiny bar. TuesSat 4pm1am. Roozenboomsteeg 4. Small, dark, brown cafe with stained gla.s.s to keep you from being ogled by the world outside. Liqueurs fill the shelves behind the tiny bar. TuesSat 4pm1am.

De Drie Fleschjes Gravenstraat 16. Long-standing tasting house for spirits and liqueurs. No beer, and no seats either; its clients tend to be well heeled or wellsoused (often both). MonSat noon8.30pm, Sun 38pm. Gravenstraat 16. Long-standing tasting house for spirits and liqueurs. No beer, and no seats either; its clients tend to be well heeled or wellsoused (often both). MonSat noon8.30pm, Sun 38pm.

[image]De Engelbewaarder Kloveniersburgwal 59. Once the meeting place of Amsterdam's bookish types, this is still known as a literary cafe. It's relaxed and informal, with live jazz on Sunday afternoons. MonThurs 11am1am, Fri & Sat 11am3am, Sun 2pm1am. Kloveniersburgwal 59. Once the meeting place of Amsterdam's bookish types, this is still known as a literary cafe. It's relaxed and informal, with live jazz on Sunday afternoons. MonThurs 11am1am, Fri & Sat 11am3am, Sun 2pm1am.

De Engelse Reet Begijnensteeg 4. Also known as the Begijnensteeg 4. Also known as the Pilsener Club Pilsener Club, this place is more like someone's living room than a bar indeed, all drinks mysteriously appear from a back room. Photographs on the wall record generations of drinking, which has been going on here since 1893.

Gaeper Staalstraat 4. Convivial brown cafe packed during term time with students from the university across the ca.n.a.l. Tasty food, plus outdoor seating good for people-watching. Staalstraat 4. Convivial brown cafe packed during term time with students from the university across the ca.n.a.l. Tasty food, plus outdoor seating good for people-watching.

't Gasthuis Grimburgwal 7. Another brown cafe popular with students. Both this place and Grimburgwal 7. Another brown cafe popular with students. Both this place and Gaeper Gaeper are run by brothers, and they're done up in more or less the same style. Here, some of Amsterdam's cheapest hot food is served, both at lunchtime and in the evenings. are run by brothers, and they're done up in more or less the same style. Here, some of Amsterdam's cheapest hot food is served, both at lunchtime and in the evenings.

Gollem Raamsteeg 4. Small, cosy, split-level bar with rickety furniture, wood panelling and a comprehensive selection of Belgian beers, plus a few Dutch brews for variety and with the correct gla.s.ses to drink them from. The genial barman will help you choose. MonFri 4pm1am, Sat & Sun 2pm2am. Raamsteeg 4. Small, cosy, split-level bar with rickety furniture, wood panelling and a comprehensive selection of Belgian beers, plus a few Dutch brews for variety and with the correct gla.s.ses to drink them from. The genial barman will help you choose. MonFri 4pm1am, Sat & Sun 2pm2am.

[image]

Gollem Hoppe Spui 18. One of Amsterdam's longest-established and best-known bars, and a likeable, scruffy joint, popular with the city's business folk. Especially good in summer, when the throng spills out onto the street. Daily 8am1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Spui 18. One of Amsterdam's longest-established and best-known bars, and a likeable, scruffy joint, popular with the city's business folk. Especially good in summer, when the throng spills out onto the street. Daily 8am1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

Kapitein Zeppos Gebed Zonder End 5. This hangout is tucked away down a tiny street off Grimburgwal and is very easy to miss. It's a bar and a restaurant and boasts a theatricality worthy of its place at the top end of Amsterdam's small theatre district; regular live music too. Gebed Zonder End 5. This hangout is tucked away down a tiny street off Grimburgwal and is very easy to miss. It's a bar and a restaurant and boasts a theatricality worthy of its place at the top end of Amsterdam's small theatre district; regular live music too.

De Koningshut Spuistraat 269. In the early evening, at least, it's standing room only in this small, spit-and-sawdust bar, popular with office workers on their way home or to dinner. Spuistraat 269. In the early evening, at least, it's standing room only in this small, spit-and-sawdust bar, popular with office workers on their way home or to dinner.

Lime Zeedijk 104. Right in the middle of Chinatown, this cool yet comfy hangout is the ideal place for a post-dinner c.o.c.ktail or pre-club livener. Zeedijk 104. Right in the middle of Chinatown, this cool yet comfy hangout is the ideal place for a post-dinner c.o.c.ktail or pre-club livener.

Lokaal 't Loosje Nieuwmarkt 32. Quiet, old-style brown cafe that's been here for two hundred years and looks it, with an attractive old tiled interior. A pleasant atmosphere, and always busy. Daily 9am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Nieuwmarkt 32. Quiet, old-style brown cafe that's been here for two hundred years and looks it, with an attractive old tiled interior. A pleasant atmosphere, and always busy. Daily 9am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

De Ooievaar Stolofspoort 1. Old Stolofspoort 1. Old proeflokaal proeflokaal that's a civilized escape from the nearby sleaze of the Red Light District and handily situated for Centraal Station. Boiled eggs at the bar go down well with the gin, and there's beer, too. that's a civilized escape from the nearby sleaze of the Red Light District and handily situated for Centraal Station. Boiled eggs at the bar go down well with the gin, and there's beer, too.

Het Paleis Paleisstraat 16. This bar is a favourite with students from the adjoining university buildings. Trendily refurbished, it also serves food focaccia sandwiches, salads and suchlike. Paleisstraat 16. This bar is a favourite with students from the adjoining university buildings. Trendily refurbished, it also serves food focaccia sandwiches, salads and suchlike.

Poco Loco Nieuwmarkt 24. One of the liveliest cafes on the Nieuwmarkt, with a cheerful retro interior attracting a matching clientele. Also a good selection of tapas and daily specials from 11. Daily 10am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Nieuwmarkt 24. One of the liveliest cafes on the Nieuwmarkt, with a cheerful retro interior attracting a matching clientele. Also a good selection of tapas and daily specials from 11. Daily 10am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Scheltema Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242. Formerly a journalists' bar, but since all the newspaper headquarters along here moved to the suburbs, its faded early twentieth-century interior, including reading tables, isn't quite the hub of activity it once was. It's cosy and atmospheric, though, with an outdoor terrace in summer. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242. Formerly a journalists' bar, but since all the newspaper headquarters along here moved to the suburbs, its faded early twentieth-century interior, including reading tables, isn't quite the hub of activity it once was. It's cosy and atmospheric, though, with an outdoor terrace in summer.

Schuim Spuistraat 189. Popular and s.p.a.cious bar-cafe with retro furniture and a young and unpretentiously boho crowd, popular with students from the nearby university. Spuistraat 189. Popular and s.p.a.cious bar-cafe with retro furniture and a young and unpretentiously boho crowd, popular with students from the nearby university.

The Tara Rokin 8589. Amsterdam has quite a few Irish pubs these days, but this is one of the best on several levels: decent food (including a great all-day breakfast), regular football and other sports on TV and live music from 10.30pm on Sat.u.r.days during the winter. It's very central too. Rokin 8589. Amsterdam has quite a few Irish pubs these days, but this is one of the best on several levels: decent food (including a great all-day breakfast), regular football and other sports on TV and live music from 10.30pm on Sat.u.r.days during the winter. It's very central too.

[image]In de Wildeman Kolksteeg 3. This lovely old-fashioned bar has a barely changed wood and tile interior that still boasts its original low bar and shelving: a peaceful escape from the loud, tacky shops of nearby Nieuwendijk. One of the centre's most appealing watering holes. Daily noon1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Kolksteeg 3. This lovely old-fashioned bar has a barely changed wood and tile interior that still boasts its original low bar and shelving: a peaceful escape from the loud, tacky shops of nearby Nieuwendijk. One of the centre's most appealing watering holes. Daily noon1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

[image]Wynand Fockink Pijlsteeg 31. This small, intimate bar, hidden just behind the Pijlsteeg 31. This small, intimate bar, hidden just behind the Krasnapolsky Krasnapolsky hotel off Dam Square, is one of the city's older hotel off Dam Square, is one of the city's older proeflokaalen proeflokaalen, and it offers a vast range of its own flavoured jenevers jenevers that were once distilled down the street. It's standing-room only here you bend down at the counter and sip your that were once distilled down the street. It's standing-room only here you bend down at the counter and sip your jenever jenever from a gla.s.s filled to the brim. Daily 39pm. from a gla.s.s filled to the brim. Daily 39pm.

Eating and drinking

Bars Bars

Grachtengordel west Brix Wolvenstraat 16 020/639 0351, Wolvenstraat 16 020/639 0351, www.cafebrix.nl. Chic, bas.e.m.e.nt bar-cafe featuring jam and jazz sessions twice weekly, plus Asian fusion cuisine (starters only) for around 8. Daily from 5pm.

Cafe 't Arendsnest Herengracht 90. In a handsome old ca.n.a.l house, this bar boasts impressive wooden decor from the longest of bars to the tall wood-and-gla.s.s cabinets and specializes in Dutch beers, of which it has 130 varieties, twelve on tap. Attracts an older clientele. Daily 4pmmidnight, 2am at the weekend. Herengracht 90. In a handsome old ca.n.a.l house, this bar boasts impressive wooden decor from the longest of bars to the tall wood-and-gla.s.s cabinets and specializes in Dutch beers, of which it has 130 varieties, twelve on tap. Attracts an older clientele. Daily 4pmmidnight, 2am at the weekend.

[image]Hegeraad Noordermarkt 34. Lovingly maintained, old-fashioned brown cafe-bar with a fiercely loyal, older clientele. The back room, furnished with paintings and red plush seats, is the perfect place to relax with a hot chocolate. Noordermarkt 34. Lovingly maintained, old-fashioned brown cafe-bar with a fiercely loyal, older clientele. The back room, furnished with paintings and red plush seats, is the perfect place to relax with a hot chocolate.

Het Molenpad Prinsengracht 653. Recently revamped cafe which hasn't lost its laidback atmosphere. Fills up with a young, professional crowd after 6pm. Daily noon1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Prinsengracht 653. Recently revamped cafe which hasn't lost its laidback atmosphere. Fills up with a young, professional crowd after 6pm. Daily noon1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

[image]Het Papeneiland Prinsengracht 2. With its wood panelling, antique Delft tiles and ancient stove, this rabbit warren of a place is one of the cosiest bars in the Grachtengordel. Jam-packed late at night with a garrulous crew of locals and tourists alike. Daily 10am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Prinsengracht 2. With its wood panelling, antique Delft tiles and ancient stove, this rabbit warren of a place is one of the cosiest bars in the Grachtengordel. Jam-packed late at night with a garrulous crew of locals and tourists alike. Daily 10am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

[image]De Pieper Prinsengracht 424. Laid-back neighbourhood brown bar, at the corner of Leidsegracht, with rickety old furniture and a mini-terrace beside the ca.n.a.l. Has a surprisingly large selection of liqueurs plus a genial, sometimes very drunk, atmosphere. MonThurs 11am1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Prinsengracht 424. Laid-back neighbourhood brown bar, at the corner of Leidsegracht, with rickety old furniture and a mini-terrace beside the ca.n.a.l. Has a surprisingly large selection of liqueurs plus a genial, sometimes very drunk, atmosphere. MonThurs 11am1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

De Prins Prinsengracht 124. With its well-worn decor and chatty atmosphere, this popular and lively bar offers a wide range of drinks and a well-priced bar menu with food served from 10am to 9pm. Large at least in Amsterdam terms and airy, it's popular with twenty-somethings. Daily 10am1am. Prinsengracht 124. With its well-worn decor and chatty atmosphere, this popular and lively bar offers a wide range of drinks and a well-priced bar menu with food served from 10am to 9pm. Large at least in Amsterdam terms and airy, it's popular with twenty-somethings. Daily 10am1am.

Van Puffelen Prinsengracht 375/7. This long-established and popular spot is divided into two, with a brown cafe-bar on one side and an Prinsengracht 375/7. This long-established and popular spot is divided into two, with a brown cafe-bar on one side and an eetcafe eetcafe on the other. The cafe-bar is an appealing place to drink, with a good choice of international beers, while the restaurant side concentrates on Dutch(ish) dishes with lots of organic frills, but the results are variable. Main courses average around 18, but the daily specials are much more economical. MonWed from 3pm, ThursSun from noon. on the other. The cafe-bar is an appealing place to drink, with a good choice of international beers, while the restaurant side concentrates on Dutch(ish) dishes with lots of organic frills, but the results are variable. Main courses average around 18, but the daily specials are much more economical. MonWed from 3pm, ThursSun from noon.

Eating and drinking

Bars Bars

Grachtengordel south Cafe van Leeuwen Keizersgracht 711. Convivial cafe, jam-packed with the local in-crowd after a day at the office. Also a good selection of small bites, like tasty Keizersgracht 711. Convivial cafe, jam-packed with the local in-crowd after a day at the office. Also a good selection of small bites, like tasty crostinis crostinis, and many wines by the gla.s.s. Occasional live jazz on Sunday. MonThurs 9am1am, Fri 9am3am, Sat 10am3am, Sun 11am1am.

De Duivel Reguliersdwarsstraat 87. Tucked away on a street of bars and coffeeshops, this is the best hip-hop bar in Amsterdam, with non-stop beats and a faithful clientele. Daily 8pm3/4am. Reguliersdwarsstraat 87. Tucked away on a street of bars and coffeeshops, this is the best hip-hop bar in Amsterdam, with non-stop beats and a faithful clientele. Daily 8pm3/4am.

Herengracht Herengracht 34. Posh and up-to-the-minute spot, popular with the Amsterdam jet set. DJs on weekends. Daily 11am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Herengracht 34. Posh and up-to-the-minute spot, popular with the Amsterdam jet set. DJs on weekends. Daily 11am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Lux Marnixstraat 403. Designer bar geared for the pre-club scene with a good line in full-volume house and regular DJs, attracting a young, alternative crowd. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am). Marnixstraat 403. Designer bar geared for the pre-club scene with a good line in full-volume house and regular DJs, attracting a young, alternative crowd. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am).

Morlang Keizersgracht 451. Lively, split-level bar-c.u.m-restaurant decorated in soft, modern style and attracting a prosperous clientele. Good bar and occasional live music too. Next door to the Keizersgracht 451. Lively, split-level bar-c.u.m-restaurant decorated in soft, modern style and attracting a prosperous clientele. Good bar and occasional live music too. Next door to the Walem Walem(see below). Daily 11am1am.

Oosterling Utrechtsestraat 140. Intimate neighbourhood bar that's been plying its trade for donkeys' years. Kitted out in attractive traditional style, it specializes in Utrechtsestraat 140. Intimate neighbourhood bar that's been plying its trade for donkeys' years. Kitted out in attractive traditional style, it specializes in jenever jenever, with dozens of brands and varieties. No mobile phones. MonSat noon1am, Sun 18pm.

Walem Keizersgracht 449. A chic bar-restaurant cool, light and vehemently un-brown; eat in or chill out at the bar with a Mojito. The clientele is stylish, and the food a hybrid of French- and Dutch-inspired dishes; mains start at 14.50. Breakfast in the garden during the summer is a highlight. Daily 10am1am, Fri & Sat until 2am. Keizersgracht 449. A chic bar-restaurant cool, light and vehemently un-brown; eat in or chill out at the bar with a Mojito. The clientele is stylish, and the food a hybrid of French- and Dutch-inspired dishes; mains start at 14.50. Breakfast in the garden during the summer is a highlight. Daily 10am1am, Fri & Sat until 2am.

Weber Marnixstraat 397. Popular local hangout, just off the Leidseplein, attracting musicians, students and young professionals. Crowded and noisy on weekends. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am). Marnixstraat 397. Popular local hangout, just off the Leidseplein, attracting musicians, students and young professionals. Crowded and noisy on weekends. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am).

De Zotte Proeflokaal Raamstraat 29. Down a grubby alley not far from the Leidseplein, this laid-back bar specializes in Belgian beer, of which it has dozens of varieties. Daily 4pm1am, bar food served 69.30pm. Raamstraat 29. Down a grubby alley not far from the Leidseplein, this laid-back bar specializes in Belgian beer, of which it has dozens of varieties. Daily 4pm1am, bar food served 69.30pm.

Eating and drinking

Bars Bars

The Jordaan and Western docklands De Blaffende Vis Westerstraat 118. Somewhat of an inst.i.tution, this is a typical neighbourhood bar at the corner of the 2e Boomdwarsstraat. Nothing pretentious, but oodles of atmosphere and a well-priced bar menu. Daily 9am1am, Mon from 7am, Fri & Sat till 3am. Westerstraat 118. Somewhat of an inst.i.tution, this is a typical neighbourhood bar at the corner of the 2e Boomdwarsstraat. Nothing pretentious, but oodles of atmosphere and a well-priced bar menu. Daily 9am1am, Mon from 7am, Fri & Sat till 3am.

Chris Bloemstraat 42. Very proud of being the Jordaan's (and Amsterdam's) oldest bar, dating from 1624, this place has a comfortable, homely atmosphere. Daily 3pm1am, Fri & Sat until 2am, Sun till 9pm. Bloemstraat 42. Very proud of being the Jordaan's (and Amsterdam's) oldest bar, dating from 1624, this place has a comfortable, homely atmosphere. Daily 3pm1am, Fri & Sat until 2am, Sun till 9pm.

Dulac Haarlemmerstraat 118. Very appealing Art Deco grand cafe, with lots of nooks to sit in, housed in what was an old city bank the metal doors remain but nowadays the only money changing hands is at the bar, especially at weekends when it stays open till 3am. DJs from Thursday to Sunday play a mixture of funk, disco and pop. Mon & Tues from 4pm, WedSun from noon. Haarlemmerstraat 118. Very appealing Art Deco grand cafe, with lots of nooks to sit in, housed in what was an old city bank the metal doors remain but nowadays the only money changing hands is at the bar, especially at weekends when it stays open till 3am. DJs from Thursday to Sunday play a mixture of funk, disco and pop. Mon & Tues from 4pm, WedSun from noon.

Finch Noordermarkt 5. This smart cafe-lounge bar situated near the Noorderkerk attracts a stylish, relaxed crowd, drawn by the design-school ambience, good tunes and superb location overlooking the Prinsengracht. Daily 10am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Noordermarkt 5. This smart cafe-lounge bar situated near the Noorderkerk attracts a stylish, relaxed crowd, drawn by the design-school ambience, good tunes and superb location overlooking the Prinsengracht. Daily 10am1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

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Finch De Kat in de Wijngaert Lindengracht 160. With the enticing name "The Cat in the Vineyard", this small bar is the epitome of the Jordaan local, and quiet enough for conversation. SunThurs 10am1am, Fri 10am3am, Sat 9am3am. Lindengracht 160. With the enticing name "The Cat in the Vineyard", this small bar is the epitome of the Jordaan local, and quiet enough for conversation. SunThurs 10am1am, Fri 10am3am, Sat 9am3am.

Nol Westerstraat 109. Raucous but jolly Jordaan singing bar, this luridly lit dive closes late, especially at weekends, when the back-slapping joviality and drunken sing-alongs keep you rooted until the small hours. Daily except Tues 9pm3am, Fri & Sat until 4am. Westerstraat 109. Raucous but jolly Jordaan singing bar, this luridly lit dive closes late, especially at weekends, when the back-slapping joviality and drunken sing-alongs keep you rooted until the small hours. Daily except Tues 9pm3am, Fri & Sat until 4am.

Pacific Parc Haarlemmerweg 6 Haarlemmerweg 6 www.pacificparc.nl. Part of the Westergasfabriek redevelopment, this bar-restaurant has lots of outdoor seating looking onto the ca.n.a.l and is a cool summer hangout for food or just drinks. Live music and DJs on weekends. MonThurs 10am1am, Fri & Sat 10am3am, Sun 11am11pm.

Proust Noordermarkt 4. Trendy design bar, but the laidback Jordaan atmosphere attracts students and young urban professionals. The focal point is the giant lamp in the shape of a revolver. Reasonably priced bar menu. Mon 9am1am, TuesThurs 5pm1am, Fri noon3am, Sat 9.30am3am, Sun 11am1am. Noordermarkt 4. Trendy design bar, but the laidback Jordaan atmosphere attracts students and young urban professionals. The focal point is the giant lamp in the shape of a revolver. Reasonably priced bar menu. Mon 9am1am, TuesThurs 5pm1am, Fri noon3am, Sat 9.30am3am, Sun 11am1am.

De Reiger Nieuwe Leliestraat 34. Situated in the thick of the Jordaan, this is one of the area's many meeting places, an old-style cafe-bar filled with modish Amsterdammers, and with faded portraits on the walls. Mains around 19. SunTues 5pmmidnight, WedFri 5pm1am, Sat 3pm1am. Nieuwe Leliestraat 34. Situated in the thick of the Jordaan, this is one of the area's many meeting places, an old-style cafe-bar filled with modish Amsterdammers, and with faded portraits on the walls. Mains around 19. SunTues 5pmmidnight, WedFri 5pm1am, Sat 3pm1am.

[image]'t Smalle Egelantiersgracht 12. Candle-lit and comfortable cafe-bar, with a pontoon on the ca.n.a.l out front for relaxed summer afternoons. Daily 10am1am, Fri & Sat until 2am. Egelantiersgracht 12. Candle-lit and comfortable cafe-bar, with a pontoon on the ca.n.a.l out front for relaxed summer afternoons. Daily 10am1am, Fri & Sat until 2am.

Thijssen Brouwersgracht 107. An old-time favourite with neighbourhood locals. Nothing fancy, but perfect for lingering over coffee or fresh mint tea with a magazine. The tiny terrace gives good views of the bustling market. MonThurs 8am1am, Fri 8am3am, Sat 7.30am3am, Sun 9am1am. Brouwersgracht 107. An old-time favourite with neighbourhood locals. Nothing fancy, but perfect for lingering over coffee or fresh mint tea with a magazine. The tiny terrace gives good views of the bustling market. MonThurs 8am1am, Fri 8am3am, Sat 7.30am3am, Sun 9am1am.

De Tuin 2e Tuindwarsstraat 13. The Jordaan has some marvellously unpretentious bars, and this is one of the best: agreeably unkempt and always full of locals. Daily 10am1am, Fri & Sat until 3am, Sun from 11am. 2e Tuindwarsstraat 13. The Jordaan has some marvellously unpretentious bars, and this is one of the best: agreeably unkempt and always full of locals. Daily 10am1am, Fri & Sat until 3am, Sun from 11am.

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De Tuin Eating and drinking

Bars Bars

Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands [image]Brouwerij Het IJ Funenkade 7. Long-established, really rather rudimentary bar and mini-brewery in the old public baths adjoining the De Gooyer windmill. Serves up an excellent range of beers and ales, from the thunderously strong (9 percent) Columbus amber ale to the creamier, more soothing Natte (6.5 percent). Daily 38pm. Funenkade 7. Long-established, really rather rudimentary bar and mini-brewery in the old public baths adjoining the De Gooyer windmill. Serves up an excellent range of beers and ales, from the thunderously strong (9 percent) Columbus amber ale to the creamier, more soothing Natte (6.5 percent). Daily 38pm.

De Druif Rapenburgerplein 83. Possibly the city's oldest bar, and one of its most beguiling, this is a resolutely brown establishment with barrel-ends on one wall and old photos on another. Attracts a local crew, who give it a village pub feel. Daily 3pm1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Rapenburgerplein 83. Possibly the city's oldest bar, and one of its most beguiling, this is a resolutely brown establishment with barrel-ends on one wall and old photos on another. Attracts a local crew, who give it a village pub feel. Daily 3pm1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

De Groene Olifant Sarphatistraat 510. Metres from the Muiderpoort, this is an old, wood-panelled brown Sarphatistraat 510. Metres from the Muiderpoort, this is an old, wood-panelled brown eetcafe eetcafe, rich in character, with floor-to-ceiling windows and an excellent varied menu of international (but Dutch-based) dishes; mains from 13. Daily from 11am, but kitchen daily noon4pm & 610.30pm.

KHL Koffiehuis Oostelijke Handelskade 44, Oostelijke Handelskade 44, www.khl.nl. See map "Zeeburg". Old-fashioned coffeehouse (not to be confused with coffeeshop) with wooden panelling and heavy red curtains, located in a 1917 state monument. Small but varied menu and live music in the back room on Sat.u.r.day and Sunday. TuesThurs 11am1am, Fri 11am2am, Sat noon3am, Sun noon1am.

Odessa Veemkade 259 020/419 3010. This bar-restaurant in a replica of an old Russian boat serves up middling Dutch and international food, good c.o.c.ktails, and turns into a club after 10pm. A watery place to hang out on a summer's evening. Wed & Thurs 4pm1am, Fri & Sat 4pm3am. Veemkade 259 020/419 3010. This bar-restaurant in a replica of an old Russian boat serves up middling Dutch and international food, good c.o.c.ktails, and turns into a club after 10pm. A watery place to hang out on a summer's evening. Wed & Thurs 4pm1am, Fri & Sat 4pm3am.

De Sluyswacht Jodenbreestraat 1. This pleasant little bar occupies an old and now solitary gabled house that stands sentry by the lock gates opposite the Rembrandthuis. A great spot to nurse a beer on a warm summer's night, with a lovely view down the ca.n.a.l towards the Montelbaanstoren. Jodenbreestraat 1. This pleasant little bar occupies an old and now solitary gabled house that stands sentry by the lock gates opposite the Rembrandthuis. A great spot to nurse a beer on a warm summer's night, with a lovely view down the ca.n.a.l towards the Montelbaanstoren.

Eating and drinking

Bars Bars

The Museum Quarter and Vondelpark Ebeling Overtoom 52. Dark and cosy lounge bar converted from an old bank. The toilets are in the vaults, and the whole thing is a pretty far cry from the traditional brown cafe vibe. There's Guinness on tap, decent music and a modern, comfortable environment. MonSat from 11am (from noon on Sun) till late. Overtoom 52. Dark and cosy lounge bar converted from an old bank. The toilets are in the vaults, and the whole thing is a pretty far cry from the traditional brown cafe vibe. There's Guinness on tap, decent music and a modern, comfortable environment. MonSat from 11am (from noon on Sun) till late.

Welling J.W. Brouwersstraat 32. Situated right behind the Concertgebouw, this traditional haunt of gloomy Amsterdam intellectuals is usually packed solid with performers and visitors alike before and after evening performances. J.W. Brouwersstraat 32. Situated right behind the Concertgebouw, this traditional haunt of gloomy Amsterdam intellectuals is usually packed solid with performers and visitors alike before and after evening performances.