Ireland 160 Merrion Rd, Dublin 4 01/269 3444, 160 Merrion Rd, Dublin 4 01/269 3444, www.netherlandsemba.s.sy.ie.

New Zealand PO Box 480, Ballance/Featherston St, Wellington 04/471 6390, PO Box 480, Ballance/Featherston St, Wellington 04/471 6390, www.netherlandsemba.s.sy.co.nz.

South Africa 210 Queen Wilhelmina Ave, New Muckleneuk, Pretoria 012/425 4500, 210 Queen Wilhelmina Ave, New Muckleneuk, Pretoria 012/425 4500, www.dutchemba.s.sy.co.za.

UK 38 Hyde Park Gate, London SW7 5DP 020/ 7590 3200, 38 Hyde Park Gate, London SW7 5DP 020/ 7590 3200, www.netherlands-emba.s.sy.org.uk.

US 4200 Linnean Ave NW, Washington, DC 20008 1-877/388 2443, 4200 Linnean Ave NW, Washington, DC 20008 1-877/388 2443, www.netherlands-emba.s.sy.org.

Travel essentials

Entry requirements Entry requirements

Emba.s.sies and consulates in the Netherlands Australia Carnegielaan 4, 2517 KH The Hague 070/310 8200, Carnegielaan 4, 2517 KH The Hague 070/310 8200, www.netherlands.emba.s.sy.gov.au.

Canada Sophialaan 7, 2514 JP The Hague 070/311 1600, Sophialaan 7, 2514 JP The Hague 070/311 1600, www.canada.nl.

Ireland Dr Kuijperstraat 9, 2514 BA The Hague 070/363 0993, Dr Kuijperstraat 9, 2514 BA The Hague 070/363 0993, www.irishemba.s.sy.nl.

New Zealand Eisenhowerlaan 77, 2517 KK The Hague 070/346 9324, Eisenhowerlaan 77, 2517 KK The Hague 070/346 9324, www.nzemba.s.sy.com.

South Africa Wa.s.senaa.r.s.eweg 40, 2596 CJ The Hague 070/392 4501, Wa.s.senaa.r.s.eweg 40, 2596 CJ The Hague 070/392 4501, www.zuidafrika.nl.

UK Lange Voorhout 10, 2514 ED The Hague 070/427 0427, Lange Voorhout 10, 2514 ED The Hague 070/427 0427, www.britain.nl; Consulate-General: Koningslaan 44, PO Box 75488, 1070 AL Amsterdam 020/676 4343.

US Lange Voorhout 102, 2514 EJ The Hague 070/310 2209, Lange Voorhout 102, 2514 EJ The Hague 070/310 2209, www.usemb.nl; Consulate General: Museumplein 19, 1071 DJ Amsterdam 020/575 5309.

Travel essentials

Gay and lesbian travellers Amsterdam is one of the top gay destinations gay destinations in Europe: att.i.tudes are tolerant, bars are excellent and plentiful, and support groups and facilities are unequalled. The national organization for gay men and women, in Europe: att.i.tudes are tolerant, bars are excellent and plentiful, and support groups and facilities are unequalled. The national organization for gay men and women, COC COC ( (www.coc.nl), dates from the 1940s and is actively involved in gaining equal rights for gays and lesbians, as well as informing society's perceptions of h.o.m.os.e.xuality. The national HQ is in Amsterdam, at Rozenstraat 8 (MonFri 9.30am5pm; 020/623 4596); it can offer help, advice and information on events around the city.

For more help and advice contact Amsterdam's Gay and Lesbian Switchboard Gay and Lesbian Switchboard on 020/623 6565. Gay legislation in the Netherlands is streets ahead of the rest of the world; same-s.e.x marriage and adoption by same-s.e.x partners were legalized in 2001, and within six months over two thousand couples had tied the knot. The age of consent is 16. on 020/623 6565. Gay legislation in the Netherlands is streets ahead of the rest of the world; same-s.e.x marriage and adoption by same-s.e.x partners were legalized in 2001, and within six months over two thousand couples had tied the knot. The age of consent is 16.

Consider timing your visit to coincide with Amsterdam Pride Amsterdam Pride ( (www.amsterdamgaypride.nl) on the first weekend in August, Queen's Day Queen's Day (not solely a gay event) on April 30 or (not solely a gay event) on April 30 or Leather Pride Leather Pride ( (www.leatherpride.nl) in late October and November. For more information on gay festivals and events, as well as gay accommodation and nightlife, see "Gay and lesbian Amsterdam".

Travel essentials

Health As a member of the European Union, the Netherlands has free reciprocal health agreements with other member states. EU citizens EU citizens are ent.i.tled to free treatment within the Netherlands' public healthcare system on production of a European Health Insurance Card ( are ent.i.tled to free treatment within the Netherlands' public healthcare system on production of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which you can obtain by picking up a form at the post office, calling 0845 606 2030, or applying online at www.dh.gov.uk; allow up to 21 days for delivery. The EHIC is free of charge and valid for at least three years, and it basically ent.i.tles you to the same treatment as an insured person in the Netherlands. Australians Australians are able to receive treatment through a reciprocal arrangement with Medicare (check with your local office for details). are able to receive treatment through a reciprocal arrangement with Medicare (check with your local office for details).

In an emergency emergency phone 112. If you're reliant on phone 112. If you're reliant on free treatment free treatment within the EU health scheme, try to make this clear to the ambulance staff, and, if you're whisked off to hospital, to the medic you subsequently encounter. If possible, it's a good idea to hand over a photocopy of your EHIC on arrival at the hospital to ensure your status is clearly understood. As for describing symptoms, you can be pretty sure that someone will speak English. Without an EHIC you won't be turned away from a hospital, but you will have to pay for any treatment you receive and should therefore get an official receipt, a necessary preamble to the long-winded process of trying to get at least some of the money back. within the EU health scheme, try to make this clear to the ambulance staff, and, if you're whisked off to hospital, to the medic you subsequently encounter. If possible, it's a good idea to hand over a photocopy of your EHIC on arrival at the hospital to ensure your status is clearly understood. As for describing symptoms, you can be pretty sure that someone will speak English. Without an EHIC you won't be turned away from a hospital, but you will have to pay for any treatment you receive and should therefore get an official receipt, a necessary preamble to the long-winded process of trying to get at least some of the money back.

You can get the address of an English-speaking doctor English-speaking doctor from your local pharmacy, tourist office or hotel. If you're ent.i.tled to free treatment under EU health agreements, double-check that the doctor is both working within, and regarding you as a patient of, the public health care system. Bear in mind, though, that even within the EU agreement you may still have to pay a significant portion of the prescription charges (although senior citizens and children are exempt). Most private health insurance policies don't help cover prescription charges either, and although the "excesses" are usually greater than the cost of the medicines, it's worth keeping receipts just in case. from your local pharmacy, tourist office or hotel. If you're ent.i.tled to free treatment under EU health agreements, double-check that the doctor is both working within, and regarding you as a patient of, the public health care system. Bear in mind, though, that even within the EU agreement you may still have to pay a significant portion of the prescription charges (although senior citizens and children are exempt). Most private health insurance policies don't help cover prescription charges either, and although the "excesses" are usually greater than the cost of the medicines, it's worth keeping receipts just in case.

The main hospitals main hospitals ( (ziekenhuis) are: Academic Medical Centre (AMC; Meibergdreef 9, 020/566 9111), VU Medical Centre (De Boelelaan 1117, 020/444 4444), Onze Lieve Vrouwe Gasthuis (Oosterpark 9, 020/599 9111) and Sint Lucas Ziekenhuis (Jan Tooropstraat 164, 020/510 8911).

Minor ailments can be remedied at a drugstore ( can be remedied at a drugstore (drogist). These sell non-prescription drugs as well as toiletries, tampons, condoms and the like. A pharmacy or apotheek apotheek (usually open MonFri 9.30am6pm, but often closed Mon mornings) also handles prescriptions; centrally located pharmacies include Dam Apotheek (Damstraat 2, 020/624 4331), Lairesse Apotheek (De Lairessestraat 40, 020/662 1022) and Apotheek Koek, Schaeffer & Van Tijen (Vijzelgracht 19, 020/623 5949). (usually open MonFri 9.30am6pm, but often closed Mon mornings) also handles prescriptions; centrally located pharmacies include Dam Apotheek (Damstraat 2, 020/624 4331), Lairesse Apotheek (De Lairessestraat 40, 020/662 1022) and Apotheek Koek, Schaeffer & Van Tijen (Vijzelgracht 19, 020/623 5949).

Dental treatment is not within the scope of the EU health agreement; enquire at the local tourist office or your hotel reception for an English-speaking dentist. is not within the scope of the EU health agreement; enquire at the local tourist office or your hotel reception for an English-speaking dentist.

Travel essentials

Insurance Even though EU health care privileges apply in the Netherlands, you'd do well to take out an insurance policy insurance policy before travelling to cover against theft, loss, illness or injury. A typical policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and up to a certain limit cash or cheques, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Many policies can be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don't need: sickness and accident benefits can often be excluded or included at will. If you need to make a before travelling to cover against theft, loss, illness or injury. A typical policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and up to a certain limit cash or cheques, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey. Many policies can be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don't need: sickness and accident benefits can often be excluded or included at will. If you need to make a claim claim, you should keep all receipts, and in the event you have anything stolen, you must obtain an official statement from the police.

Visitors planning longer stays longer stays (at least three months) are required by Dutch law to take out private health insurance. Taking out private insurance means the cost of items not within the scope of the EU scheme, such as dental treatment and repatriation on medical grounds, will be covered. (at least three months) are required by Dutch law to take out private health insurance. Taking out private insurance means the cost of items not within the scope of the EU scheme, such as dental treatment and repatriation on medical grounds, will be covered.

Non-EU residents, apart from Australians, will need to insure themselves against all eventualities, including medical costs. In the case of major expense, the more worthwhile policies promise to sort matters out before you pay rather than after, but if you do have to pay upfront, make very sure that you always keep full doctors' reports, signed prescription details and all receipts. residents, apart from Australians, will need to insure themselves against all eventualities, including medical costs. In the case of major expense, the more worthwhile policies promise to sort matters out before you pay rather than after, but if you do have to pay upfront, make very sure that you always keep full doctors' reports, signed prescription details and all receipts.

Travel essentials

Internet Amsterdam has a healthy supply of internet cafes internet cafes and most hotels provide internet access for their guests for free or for a small charge; many have also installed wi-fi networks. A central option is Internetcafe at Martelaarsgracht 11 (daily 9am1am, Fri & Sat until 3am; 020/627 1052, and most hotels provide internet access for their guests for free or for a small charge; many have also installed wi-fi networks. A central option is Internetcafe at Martelaarsgracht 11 (daily 9am1am, Fri & Sat until 3am; 020/627 1052, www.internetcafe.nl), just 200m from Centraal Station, serving alcoholic drinks as well as the usual juice and coffee. Rates are reasonable 1 per half hour, including a drink. There's also free internet access free internet access at the main library (see " at the main library (see "ARCAM, NEMO and the Bibliotheek") near Centraal Station.

Travel essentials

Laundry Larger hotels generally provide a laundry service, though this tends to be expensive. The city's best self-service laundry self-service laundry is Clean Brothers, Westerstraat 26 (Jordaan and Western docklands; daily 8am8pm), charging 7 for a wash and dry. They also do service washes, dry-cleaning, ironing and so on. Other laundries are to be found at Kerkstraat 367 (Grachtengordel South) and Warmoesstraat 30 (Old Centre). is Clean Brothers, Westerstraat 26 (Jordaan and Western docklands; daily 8am8pm), charging 7 for a wash and dry. They also do service washes, dry-cleaning, ironing and so on. Other laundries are to be found at Kerkstraat 367 (Grachtengordel South) and Warmoesstraat 30 (Old Centre).

Travel essentials

Left luggage There's a staffed left-luggage desk in the bas.e.m.e.nt of Schiphol Airport, between Arrivals halls 1 and 2 (daily 7am10.45pm), as well as left-luggage lockers. Small items cost roughly 3 per day, medium 4, large 5 and very bulky items 7.50; the maximum storage time is seven days. At Centraal Station, you'll find coin-operated left-luggage lockers (daily 7am1pm), as well as a staffed left-luggage office (daily 7am11pm). Small coin-operated lockers cost 4.50 for 24 hours, the larger ones 7.

At train stations outside Amsterdam, left-luggage lockers cannot currently be used without a Dutch debit card.

Travel essentials

Libraries The main public library, the Bibliotheek, is at Oosterdokskade 143, just west of Centraal Station (daily 10am10pm).

Travel essentials

Lost property For items lost on the trams, buses or metro, contact GVB Head Office, Prins Hendrikkade 108114 (MonFri 9am4pm; 0900/8011). For property lost on a train, first go to the service office at Centraal Station (24hr). After five days all unclaimed property goes to the Central Lost Property Office in Utrecht (0900/321 2100). If you lose something in the street or park, try the police lost property office at Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 52 (MonFri 9am4pm; 14020). Schiphol Airport's lost and found desk is in the Arrivals Hall (daily 8am6pm; 0900/0141).

Travel essentials

Mail As part of a gradual scheme, all Dutch post offices Dutch post offices are scheduled to close by 2012, and postal transactions will be carried out at the new are scheduled to close by 2012, and postal transactions will be carried out at the new TNT TNT stores or places with the TNT logo. stores or places with the TNT logo. Stamps Stamps are sold at a wide range of outlets including many supermarkets, shops and hotels. are sold at a wide range of outlets including many supermarkets, shops and hotels. Postboxes Postboxes are everywhere, but be sure to use the correct slot the one labelled are everywhere, but be sure to use the correct slot the one labelled overige overige is for post going outside the immediate locality. is for post going outside the immediate locality.

Travel essentials

Maps The maps maps in this guide should be more than adequate for most purposes, but if you need one on a larger scale, or with a street index, then pick up in this guide should be more than adequate for most purposes, but if you need one on a larger scale, or with a street index, then pick up The Rough Guide Map to Amsterdam The Rough Guide Map to Amsterdam, which has the added advantage of being waterproof and rip-proof. This marks all the key sights as well as the location of many restaurants, bars and hotels. If you want a map covering the outer suburbs as well, the best bet is the Falk Falk map of Amsterdam (1:15,000). Other options include the city maps sold by the VVV, which come complete with a street index, and the handily compact, spiral-bound street atlases produced by Falk (suburbs: 1:12,500; centre 1:7500). map of Amsterdam (1:15,000). Other options include the city maps sold by the VVV, which come complete with a street index, and the handily compact, spiral-bound street atlases produced by Falk (suburbs: 1:12,500; centre 1:7500).

Travel essentials

Money The currency currency of the Netherlands like much of the rest of the EU is the of the Netherlands like much of the rest of the EU is the euro euro (), divided into 100 cents. At the time of writing the exchange rate was 0.75 to $1 and 1.10 to 1. There are (), divided into 100 cents. At the time of writing the exchange rate was 0.75 to $1 and 1.10 to 1. There are notes notes of 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5, and of 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5, and coins coins of 2, 1, 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c and 2c. Euro coins feature a common EU design on one face, but different country-specific designs on the other, but no matter what the design, all euro coins and notes are legal tender in all of the following countries as well as the Netherlands: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, the Republic of Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Portugal and Spain. Note that bills of 200 and 500 are almost impossible to change anywhere other than in an official bank. of 2, 1, 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c and 2c. Euro coins feature a common EU design on one face, but different country-specific designs on the other, but no matter what the design, all euro coins and notes are legal tender in all of the following countries as well as the Netherlands: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, the Republic of Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Portugal and Spain. Note that bills of 200 and 500 are almost impossible to change anywhere other than in an official bank.

The Netherlands is a cash cash society; as a general rule, people prefer to pay for most things with notes and coins. However, society; as a general rule, people prefer to pay for most things with notes and coins. However, debit cards debit cards are becoming increasingly popular, and most shops and restaurants accept these and are becoming increasingly popular, and most shops and restaurants accept these and credit cards credit cards. You can use many Visa, Mastercard and UK debit cards (within the Cirrus, Plus or Maestro systems) to withdraw cash from ATMs ATMs often the quickest and easiest way of obtaining money. There are dozens around the city and they give instructions in a variety of languages. often the quickest and easiest way of obtaining money. There are dozens around the city and they give instructions in a variety of languages.

In the event that your credit card is lost or stolen credit card is lost or stolen, call 020/504 8666 for American Express (0800/022 0100 for traveller's cheques); 0800/022 5821 for MasterCard; and 0800/022 3110 for Visa.

Dutch banks usually offer the best deals on changing money. Banking hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm, with a few big-city banks also open Thursday until 9pm or on Sat.u.r.day morning; all are closed on usually offer the best deals on changing money. Banking hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm, with a few big-city banks also open Thursday until 9pm or on Sat.u.r.day morning; all are closed on public holidays public holidays. Outside these times, changing money is rarely a problem; there's a nationwide network of GWK exchange offices GWK exchange offices, which are open late every day, and at Amsterdam Centraal Station and Schiphol Airport, 24 hours a day. GWK offers compet.i.tive rates and charges reasonable commissions, but some other agencies do not, so be cautious. VVV tourist offices also exchange money, as do most hotels and campsites and some hostels, but their rates are generally poor.

Travel essentials

Opening hours and public holidays The Dutch weekend fades painlessly into the working week with many smaller shops and businesses, even in Amsterdam, staying closed on Monday mornings until noon. Normal opening hours Normal opening hours are, however, Monday to Friday 8.30/9am to 5.30/6pm and Sat.u.r.day 8.30/9am to 4/5pm, and many places open late on Thursday or Friday evenings. are, however, Monday to Friday 8.30/9am to 5.30/6pm and Sat.u.r.day 8.30/9am to 4/5pm, and many places open late on Thursday or Friday evenings. Sunday Sunday opening is becoming increasingly common, especially within the city centre, where most shops are now open between noon and 5pm. opening is becoming increasingly common, especially within the city centre, where most shops are now open between noon and 5pm.

Most restaurants restaurants are open for dinner from about 6 or 7pm, and though many close as early as 9.30pm, a few stay open past 11pm. are open for dinner from about 6 or 7pm, and though many close as early as 9.30pm, a few stay open past 11pm. Bars Bars, cafes and coffeeshops cafes and coffeeshops are either open all day from around 10am or don't open until about 5pm; all close at 1am during the week and 2am at weekends. are either open all day from around 10am or don't open until about 5pm; all close at 1am during the week and 2am at weekends. Nightclubs Nightclubs generally open their doors from 11pm to 4am during the week, though a few open every night, and some stay open until 5am at the weekend. A handful of generally open their doors from 11pm to 4am during the week, though a few open every night, and some stay open until 5am at the weekend. A handful of night shops night shops avondwinkels avondwinkels stay open into the small hours or round the clock. stay open into the small hours or round the clock.

Museums are usually open from Monday to Friday from 10am to 5pm (some smaller museums are closed on Monday, the main tourist drags have longer opening hours), and from 11am to 5pm on weekends. Though closed for Christmas and New Year, state-run museums adopt Sunday hours on the remaining public holidays, when most shops and banks are closed. are usually open from Monday to Friday from 10am to 5pm (some smaller museums are closed on Monday, the main tourist drags have longer opening hours), and from 11am to 5pm on weekends. Though closed for Christmas and New Year, state-run museums adopt Sunday hours on the remaining public holidays, when most shops and banks are closed. Galleries Galleries tend to be open from Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 5pm. Precise opening hours are quoted throughout the guide. tend to be open from Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 5pm. Precise opening hours are quoted throughout the guide.

Public holidays ( (nationale feestdagen) provide the perfect excuse to take to the streets. The most celebrated of them all is Queen's Day Queen's Day Koninginnedag Koninginnedag on April 30, which is celebrated throughout the Netherlands but with particular gusto in Amsterdam. The rest are as follows: New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Monday, Liberation Day (May 5), Ascension Day, Whit Sunday and Monday (seven weeks after Easter), and Christmas (December 25 and 26). on April 30, which is celebrated throughout the Netherlands but with particular gusto in Amsterdam. The rest are as follows: New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Monday, Liberation Day (May 5), Ascension Day, Whit Sunday and Monday (seven weeks after Easter), and Christmas (December 25 and 26).

Travel essentials

Phones The international phone code international phone code for the Netherlands is 31. Numbers prefixed 0800 are free; those prefixed 0900 are premium-rate a (Dutch) message before you're connected tells you how much you will be paying for the call, and you can only call them from within the Netherlands. for the Netherlands is 31. Numbers prefixed 0800 are free; those prefixed 0900 are premium-rate a (Dutch) message before you're connected tells you how much you will be paying for the call, and you can only call them from within the Netherlands. Phone booths Phone booths are rapidly disappearing as a concomitant of the irresistible rise of the mobile phone, but there is a light scattering at major locations, like Centraal Station. are rapidly disappearing as a concomitant of the irresistible rise of the mobile phone, but there is a light scattering at major locations, like Centraal Station. Phone cards Phone cards can be bought at outlets like tobacconists and VVV offices, and in several denominations, beginning at 5. The cheap-rate period for international calls is between 8pm and 8am during the week and all day at weekends. can be bought at outlets like tobacconists and VVV offices, and in several denominations, beginning at 5. The cheap-rate period for international calls is between 8pm and 8am during the week and all day at weekends.

There is good coverage for mobile phones/cell phones mobile phones/cell phones all over the Netherlands. You need to use a mobile with 900 and 1800 MHz bands. Prepaid SIM cards are available in telephone shops (on the Rokin and around Kalverstraat) and in some supermarkets. all over the Netherlands. You need to use a mobile with 900 and 1800 MHz bands. Prepaid SIM cards are available in telephone shops (on the Rokin and around Kalverstraat) and in some supermarkets.

To speak to the Operator Operator (domestic and international), call 0800 0410; for (domestic and international), call 0800 0410; for Directory Enquiries Directory Enquiries, dial 0900 8008 (domestic), 0900 8418 (international).

The Dutch phone directory Dutch phone directory is available (in Dutch) at is available (in Dutch) at www.detelefoongids.nl.

Travel essentials

Phones Phones

Calling home from abroad Calling home from abroadNote that the initial zero is omitted from the area code when dialling the UK, Ireland, Australia and New Zealand from abroad.UK international access code + 44 + city code. international access code + 44 + city code.Republic of Ireland international access code + 353 + city code. international access code + 353 + city code.US and Canada international access code + 1 + area code. international access code + 1 + area code.Australia international access code + 61 + city code. international access code + 61 + city code.New Zealand international access code + 64 + city code. international access code + 64 + city code.South Africa international access code + 27 + city code. international access code + 27 + city code.Travel essentials

Phones Phones

The VVV The VVVOnce in Amsterdam, any of the city's tourist offices, the VVV VVVs (p.r.o.nounced "fay-fay-fay"), will be able to help with practical information.There's a VVV on platform 2 at Centraal Station (Daily 11am7pm) and a second, main one directly across from the main station entrance on Stationsplein (daily 9am6pm). These two offices share one premium-rate information line information line on 0900/400 4040, and a on 0900/400 4040, and a website website: www.iamsterdam.com. They offer advice and information advice and information and sell a range of and sell a range of maps maps and guidebooks as well as and guidebooks as well as tickets tickets and pa.s.ses for public transport. They also take in-person bookings for ca.n.a.l cruises and other organized and pa.s.ses for public transport. They also take in-person bookings for ca.n.a.l cruises and other organized excursions excursions, sell theatre and concert tickets, and operate an extremely efficient accommodation reservation service accommodation reservation service for just 3 plus a refundable deposit which is subtracted from your final bill especially useful in high season when finding accommodation isn't always easy. for just 3 plus a refundable deposit which is subtracted from your final bill especially useful in high season when finding accommodation isn't always easy.

Travel essentials

Time Amsterdam, and indeed the whole of the Netherlands, is on Central European Time Central European Time (CET) one hour ahead of London, six hours ahead of New York, nine hours ahead of Los Angeles and eight hours behind Sydney. (CET) one hour ahead of London, six hours ahead of New York, nine hours ahead of Los Angeles and eight hours behind Sydney. Daylight saving Daylight saving operates from the end of March to the end of October. operates from the end of March to the end of October.

Travel essentials

Tipping Tipping isn't quite as routine a matter as it is in the US or even in the UK. However, you are expected to leave something if you have enjoyed good service up to around ten percent of the bill should suffice in most restaurants, while hotel porters and taxi drivers may expect a euro or two on top of the fare. isn't quite as routine a matter as it is in the US or even in the UK. However, you are expected to leave something if you have enjoyed good service up to around ten percent of the bill should suffice in most restaurants, while hotel porters and taxi drivers may expect a euro or two on top of the fare.

Travel essentials

Tourist information Information on Amsterdam is easy to get hold of, either before you leave from the Netherlands Board of Tourism Netherlands Board of Tourism, by phone or post or via the internet the NBT's all-encompa.s.sing website, www.holland.com, highlights upcoming events and is strong on practical information.

For information about what's on what's on, there's either the VVV the VVV or the Amsterdam Uitburo, the cultural office of the city council, housed in a corner of the Stadsschouwburg theatre on Leidseplein (MonSat 10am7.30pm, Sun noon7.30pm; 020/795 9950). You can get advice here on anything remotely cultural, as well as tickets and copies of listings magazines. Among the latter, there's a choice between the AUB's own monthly or the Amsterdam Uitburo, the cultural office of the city council, housed in a corner of the Stadsschouwburg theatre on Leidseplein (MonSat 10am7.30pm, Sun noon7.30pm; 020/795 9950). You can get advice here on anything remotely cultural, as well as tickets and copies of listings magazines. Among the latter, there's a choice between the AUB's own monthly Uitkrant Uitkrant, which is comprehensive and free but in Dutch, or the VVV's Day by Day in Amsterdam Day by Day in Amsterdam. Alternatively, the free NL20 NL20 magazine (in Dutch) is one of the most up-to-date and complete reference sources and can be found in many supermarkets, cafes and shops. The Wednesday entertainment supplement of the newspaper magazine (in Dutch) is one of the most up-to-date and complete reference sources and can be found in many supermarkets, cafes and shops. The Wednesday entertainment supplement of the newspaper Het Parool Het Parool also gives a good overview of most cultural activities and also gives a good overview of most cultural activities and Amsterdam Weekly Amsterdam Weekly is a free cultural newspaper in English, published every Wednesday, with information on film, music and the arts. is a free cultural newspaper in English, published every Wednesday, with information on film, music and the arts.

Various tourist pa.s.ses tourist pa.s.ses are available. The VVV's much-touted are available. The VVV's much-touted Amsterdam Card Amsterdam Card provides unlimited use of the city's public transport network, a complimentary ca.n.a.l cruise and free admission to the bulk of the city's museums and attractions. It costs 38 for one day, 48 for two consecutive days and 58 for three consecutive days. Altogether it's not a bad deal, but you have to work fairly hard to make it worthwhile. It's available from any branch of the VVV. An alternative if you're staying for more than a couple of days is the provides unlimited use of the city's public transport network, a complimentary ca.n.a.l cruise and free admission to the bulk of the city's museums and attractions. It costs 38 for one day, 48 for two consecutive days and 58 for three consecutive days. Altogether it's not a bad deal, but you have to work fairly hard to make it worthwhile. It's available from any branch of the VVV. An alternative if you're staying for more than a couple of days is the Museumkaart Museumkaart (museum card), which gives free entry to most museums in the whole of the Netherlands for a year; it costs 40 (less if you're 24 or under). Full details, including online ordering, are at (museum card), which gives free entry to most museums in the whole of the Netherlands for a year; it costs 40 (less if you're 24 or under). Full details, including online ordering, are at www.museumkaart.nl, or you can purchase one at any partic.i.p.ating museum.

The I Amsterdam I Amsterdam card ( card (www.iamsterdamcard.com) serves as a public transport pa.s.s and an entrance ticket to all the major museums; it also offers discounts at restaurants and attractions. It's available in 24hr, 48hr and 72hr versions, costing 38, 48 and 58 respectively. A free ca.n.a.l boat ride is included in the price. You can buy it online, or at any VVV.

Concessionary rates are applied at every city sight and attraction as well as on the public transport system. Rates vary, but usually seniors (65+) get in free or for a discounted price, while children of 5 and under get in for free; family tickets are common too. are applied at every city sight and attraction as well as on the public transport system. Rates vary, but usually seniors (65+) get in free or for a discounted price, while children of 5 and under get in for free; family tickets are common too.

Travel essentials

Tourist information Tourist information

Guided tours Guided toursNo one could say the Amsterdam tourist industry doesn't make the most of its ca.n.a.ls ca.n.a.ls, with a veritable armada of gla.s.s-topped cruise boats cruise boats shuttling along the city's waterways, offering everything from quick hour-long excursions to fully-fledged dinner cruises. There are several major operators which occupy the prime pitches the jetties near Centraal Station on Stationsplein, beside the Damrak and on Prins Hendrikkade. shuttling along the city's waterways, offering everything from quick hour-long excursions to fully-fledged dinner cruises. There are several major operators which occupy the prime pitches the jetties near Centraal Station on Stationsplein, beside the Damrak and on Prins Hendrikkade. Prices Prices are fairly uniform, with a one-hour tour costing around 12 per adult, 6 per child (412 years old), and around 25 (15) for a two-hour cruise at night. The big companies also offer more are fairly uniform, with a one-hour tour costing around 12 per adult, 6 per child (412 years old), and around 25 (15) for a two-hour cruise at night. The big companies also offer more specialized boat trips specialized boat trips dinner cruises from around 59, literary cruises, and most notably the weekly Architecture Cruise run by Lovers (020/530 1090, dinner cruises from around 59, literary cruises, and most notably the weekly Architecture Cruise run by Lovers (020/530 1090, www.lovers.nl; 22.50/17.50). All these cruises and especially the shorter and less expensive ones are extremely popular, and long queues are common throughout the summer. There are also plenty of tours on dry land, from guided cycle rides cycle rides to a meander around the city to a meander around the city on foot on foot. A selection is given below, but if you have a specific interest Dutch art, for example it's well worth asking at the VVV VVV to see what's on offer. to see what's on offer.Tour operatorsMee in Mok.u.m Keizersgracht 346 020/625 1390, Keizersgracht 346 020/625 1390, www.gildeamsterdam.nl. Guided walking tours of the old centre and the Jordaan provided by long-time Amsterdam residents. Tours run four or five times weekly; 5 per person. Advance reservations required.Reederij P. Kooij on the Rokin, beside the Queen Wilhelmina statue 020/623 3810, on the Rokin, beside the Queen Wilhelmina statue 020/623 3810, www.rederijkooij.nl. One way of avoiding the tour queues is to head for the first-rate Reederij P. Kooij, which offers a standard range of day and night cruises at compet.i.tive prices. Also has a (more crowded) jetty opposite Centraal Station on Stationsplein, and by Leidseplein.Urban Home & Garden Tours020/688 1243, www.uhgt.nl. Three-hour tours (AprilOct) that explore a number of the city's ca.n.a.l houses and gardens, guided by landscape gardeners and art historians. Tours are held Fri, Sat and Sun, and cost 28.50 (the fee includes refreshments). Cash only, no credit cards.Yellow Bike Tours Nieuwezijds Kolk 29, off Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 020/620 6940, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29, off Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 020/620 6940, www.yellowbike.nl. Three-hour guided cycling tours around the city (two daily April to mid-Oct) that cost 21.50 per person, including the bike. Other tours of the Jordaan, Red Light District, etc available. Advance reservations required.

Travel essentials

Tourist information Tourist information

Netherlands Board of Tourism offices UK PO Box 30783, London WC2B 6DH 020/7539 7950, [email protected] PO Box 30783, London WC2B 6DH 020/7539 7950, [email protected]

US 355 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10017 1-212-370-7360, [email protected] There are no offices in Australia or New Zealand. 355 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10017 1-212-370-7360, There are no offices in Australia or New Zealand.

Travel essentials

Tourist information Tourist information

Tourist offices and government sites Australian Department of Foreign Affairs www.dfat.gov.au, www.smartraveller.gov.au.

British Foreign & Commonwealth Office www.fco.gov.uk.

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.

Irish Department of Foreign Affairs www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie.

New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs www.mft.govt.nz.

South African Department of Foreign Affairs www.dfa.gov.za.

US State Department www.travel.state.gov.

Travel essentials

Travellers with disabilities Despite its general social progressiveness, the Netherlands is only just getting to grips with the requirements of people with mobility problems mobility problems. In Amsterdam and most of the other major cities, the most obvious difficulty you'll face is in negotiating the cobbled streets and narrow, often broken pavements of the older districts, where the key sights are often located. Similarly, provision for people with disabilities on public transport public transport is only average, although improving many new buses, for instance, are now wheelchair-accessible. And yet, while it can be difficult simply to get around, practically all public buildings, including museums, theatres, cinemas, concert halls and hotels, are obliged to provide access, and do. is only average, although improving many new buses, for instance, are now wheelchair-accessible. And yet, while it can be difficult simply to get around, practically all public buildings, including museums, theatres, cinemas, concert halls and hotels, are obliged to provide access, and do.

Places that have been certified wheelchair-accessible wheelchair-accessible now bear an International Accessibility Symbol (IAS). Bear in mind, however, that a lot of the older, narrower hotels are not allowed to install lifts, so check first. If you're planning to use the now bear an International Accessibility Symbol (IAS). Bear in mind, however, that a lot of the older, narrower hotels are not allowed to install lifts, so check first. If you're planning to use the Dutch train network Dutch train network during your stay and would appreciate a.s.sistance on the platform, phone the Bureau a.s.sistentieverlening Gehandicapten (Disabled a.s.sistance Office) on 030/235 7822 at least three hours before your train departs, and there will be someone to meet and help you at the station (office open daily 7am11pm). NS, the Netherlands Railways a.s.sociation, publishes information about train travel for people with disabilities online at during your stay and would appreciate a.s.sistance on the platform, phone the Bureau a.s.sistentieverlening Gehandicapten (Disabled a.s.sistance Office) on 030/235 7822 at least three hours before your train departs, and there will be someone to meet and help you at the station (office open daily 7am11pm). NS, the Netherlands Railways a.s.sociation, publishes information about train travel for people with disabilities online at www.ns.nl and in various leaflets, stocked at main stations. and in various leaflets, stocked at main stations.

Travellers with a pre-existing medical condition are sometimes excluded from insurance policies insurance policies; read the small print carefully. Ask your doctor for a medical certificate of your fitness to travel as some insurance companies insist on it.

Explore Amsterdam The Old Centre The Grachtengordel The Jordaan and Western docklands The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands The Museum Quarter and the Vondelpark The outer districts Day-trips from the city

The Old Centre Amsterdam's most vivacious and arguably most touristy district, the Old Centre Old Centre is an oval-shaped tangle of narrow streets and picturesque ca.n.a.ls, confined in the north by the River IJ and to the west and south by the Singel, the first of several ca.n.a.ls that once girdled the entire city. Given the dominance of is an oval-shaped tangle of narrow streets and picturesque ca.n.a.ls, confined in the north by the River IJ and to the west and south by the Singel, the first of several ca.n.a.ls that once girdled the entire city. Given the dominance of Centraal Station Centraal Station on most transport routes, this is almost certainly where you'll arrive. Immediately outside, on most transport routes, this is almost certainly where you'll arrive. Immediately outside, Stationsplein Stationsplein is home to the main tourist and transport information offices, a busy maelstrom of buskers and bicycles, trams and tourists and, for the past few years, construction works, as slow progress on the city's new metro line continues. From here, a stroll across the bridge will take you onto the is home to the main tourist and transport information offices, a busy maelstrom of buskers and bicycles, trams and tourists and, for the past few years, construction works, as slow progress on the city's new metro line continues. From here, a stroll across the bridge will take you onto the Damrak Damrak, which once divided the Oude Zijde Oude Zijde (Old Side) of the medieval city to the east from the smaller (Old Side) of the medieval city to the east from the smaller Nieuwe Zijde Nieuwe Zijde (New Side) to the west. It also led and leads to the heart of the Old Centre, (New Side) to the west. It also led and leads to the heart of the Old Centre, Dam Square Dam Square, which is overseen by two of the city's most impressive buildings, the Koninklijk Paleis Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) and the (Royal Palace) and the Nieuwe Kerk Nieuwe Kerk (New Church). (New Church). Rokin Rokin runs south from Dam Square, parallel to pedestrianized runs south from Dam Square, parallel to pedestrianized Kalverstraat Kalverstraat, which is the city's prime mainstream shopping street. Sights-wise, the main targets in this area are the secluded Begijnhof Begijnhof, a circle of dignified old houses originally built for a semi-religious community in the 1340s, and the museum of city history, the Amsterdams Historisch Museum Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

Nowadays, much of the Oude Zijde is taken up by the city's notorious Red Light District Red Light District, which stretches across Warmoesstraat and the two ca.n.a.ls Oudezijds Voorburgwal Oudezijds Voorburgwal and and Oudezijds Achterburgwal Oudezijds Achterburgwal that formed the heart of medieval Amsterdam. There's a prevailing seediness in the Red Light District that inevitably dulls its many charms, but there are still one or two signs that you are in the city's most historic quarter: the delightful that formed the heart of medieval Amsterdam. There's a prevailing seediness in the Red Light District that inevitably dulls its many charms, but there are still one or two signs that you are in the city's most historic quarter: the delightful Amstelkring Amstelkring, a clandestine Catholic church dating from the seventeenth century, and the charming Gothic architecture of the Oude Kerk Oude Kerk, not to mention the relatively unpretentious beauty of the ca.n.a.ls ca.n.a.ls themselves (if you can block out the prevailing neon). The sleazy atmosphere decreases the further east you go towards themselves (if you can block out the prevailing neon). The sleazy atmosphere decreases the further east you go towards Nieuwmarkt Nieuwmarkt, a large and una.s.suming square where Kloveniersburgwal Kloveniersburgwal begins, a large and stately ca.n.a.l that effectively marks the border of the Red Light District. Further east, another ca.n.a.l, begins, a large and stately ca.n.a.l that effectively marks the border of the Red Light District. Further east, another ca.n.a.l, Groenburgwal Groenburgwal, is one of the most beguiling parts of the Old Centre, with a medley of handsome old houses lining what is one of its prettiest stretches of water.

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The Old Centre

Old times, new times Old times, new timesAmsterdam's Old Centre Old Centre follows the core of the original city, its narrow streets and ca.n.a.ls confined to the north by the River IJ and the harbour, and to the west and south by the Singel, which used to form the boundary of the old port. Amsterdam started out as a humble follows the core of the original city, its narrow streets and ca.n.a.ls confined to the north by the River IJ and the harbour, and to the west and south by the Singel, which used to form the boundary of the old port. Amsterdam started out as a humble fishing village fishing village here, at the marshy mouth of the River Amstel, before the local lord gave it some significance by building a castle in 1204. Sixty years later, the Amstel was dammed leading to the name "Amstelredam" and the village began to flourish as a here, at the marshy mouth of the River Amstel, before the local lord gave it some significance by building a castle in 1204. Sixty years later, the Amstel was dammed leading to the name "Amstelredam" and the village began to flourish as a trading centre trading centre. The city then developed in stages, each of which was marked by the digging of new ca.n.a.ls ca.n.a.ls to either side of the main ca.n.a.l linking the River IJ with Dam Square, along today's Damrak. The city grew at first around the ca.n.a.ls of today's Red Light District and after that on the other side of the Damrak. Time and again the wooden buildings of medieval Amsterdam went up in smoke, until finally, after a particularly severe fire in 1452, timber was banned in favour of brick and stone and it's these handsome to either side of the main ca.n.a.l linking the River IJ with Dam Square, along today's Damrak. The city grew at first around the ca.n.a.ls of today's Red Light District and after that on the other side of the Damrak. Time and again the wooden buildings of medieval Amsterdam went up in smoke, until finally, after a particularly severe fire in 1452, timber was banned in favour of brick and stone and it's these handsome ca.n.a.l houses ca.n.a.l houses of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries that provide the Old Centre with most of its architectural high points. of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries that provide the Old Centre with most of its architectural high points.However, it's a modern building project building project that has dominated this part of the city in recent years: the plan to redevelop the station and the area around it at the same time as building a new that has dominated this part of the city in recent years: the plan to redevelop the station and the area around it at the same time as building a new metro line metro line linking Amsterdam's city centre with the south of the city and stations across the IJ in the resurgent North. City centre stations are to be built at Centraal Station, Rokin and the Vijzelgracht, and for the best part of six years now the area around Stationsplein especially has been a ma.s.sive construction site; the chaos looks set to continue for some time, until completion of the project in 2015. There has been huge controversy over the plan: some question whether it's even possible to build a tunnel under a city centre that is mainly built on wooden stilts, and work was halted for a while in 2008 when a number of city centre buildings began to collapse. But the authorities are determined to press on, and claim they will deliver not only better connections between the city centre and its outlying districts, but also a more pleasant, pedestrian-friendly Stationsplein and inner harbour. Whatever the result, it will seem like an improvement after the upheaval of the past few years. linking Amsterdam's city centre with the south of the city and stations across the IJ in the resurgent North. City centre stations are to be built at Centraal Station, Rokin and the Vijzelgracht, and for the best part of six years now the area around Stationsplein especially has been a ma.s.sive construction site; the chaos looks set to continue for some time, until completion of the project in 2015. There has been huge controversy over the plan: some question whether it's even possible to build a tunnel under a city centre that is mainly built on wooden stilts, and work was halted for a while in 2008 when a number of city centre buildings began to collapse. But the authorities are determined to press on, and claim they will deliver not only better connections between the city centre and its outlying districts, but also a more pleasant, pedestrian-friendly Stationsplein and inner harbour. Whatever the result, it will seem like an improvement after the upheaval of the past few years.

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Running from Centraal Station to Dam Square, the Damrak Damrak a broad, rather unenticing avenue lined with tacky restaurants, bars and bureaux de change slices south into the heart of the city, first pa.s.sing an inner harbour crammed with the bobbing ca.n.a.l cruise boats of Amsterdam's considerable tourist industry. It was a ca.n.a.l until 1672, when it was filled in; up until then it had been the medieval city's main nautical artery, with boats sailing up it to discharge their goods right in the centre of town on the main square. Thereafter, with the docks moved elsewhere, the Damrak became a busy commercial drag, as it remains today, and Dam Square became the centre of munic.i.p.al power. a broad, rather unenticing avenue lined with tacky restaurants, bars and bureaux de change slices south into the heart of the city, first pa.s.sing an inner harbour crammed with the bobbing ca.n.a.l cruise boats of Amsterdam's considerable tourist industry. It was a ca.n.a.l until 1672, when it was filled in; up until then it had been the medieval city's main nautical artery, with boats sailing up it to discharge their goods right in the centre of town on the main square. Thereafter, with the docks moved elsewhere, the Damrak became a busy commercial drag, as it remains today, and Dam Square became the centre of munic.i.p.al power.

To the west of the Damrak lies the Old Centre's Nieuwe Zijde Nieuwe Zijde, whose outer boundary was marked in the 1500s by a defensive wall, hence the name of its princ.i.p.al avenue, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal ("In Front of the Town Wall on the New Side"). The wall disappeared as the city grew, and in the nineteenth century the ca.n.a.l that ran through the middle of the street was earthed in, leaving the unusually wide thoroughfare that you see today. This area was, however, badly mauled by the developers in the 1970s and give or take a scattering of old ca.n.a.l houses on Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal there's no great reason to linger. ("In Front of the Town Wall on the New Side"). The wall disappeared as the city grew, and in the nineteenth century the ca.n.a.l that ran through the middle of the street was earthed in, leaving the unusually wide thoroughfare that you see today. This area was, however, badly mauled by the developers in the 1970s and give or take a scattering of old ca.n.a.l houses on Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal there's no great reason to linger.

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Centraal Station The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

Centraal Station and Stationsplein With its high gables and cheerful brickwork, the neo-Renaissance Centraal Station Centraal Station is an imposing prelude to the city. At the time of its construction on an artifical island in the 1880s, it aroused much controversy because it effectively separated the centre from the River IJ, source of the city's wealth, for the first time in Amsterdam's long history. There was controversy about the choice of architect too; the man chosen, is an imposing prelude to the city. At the time of its construction on an artifical island in the 1880s, it aroused much controversy because it effectively separated the centre from the River IJ, source of the city's wealth, for the first time in Amsterdam's long history. There was controversy about the choice of architect too; the man chosen, Petrus J.H. Cuypers Petrus J.H. Cuypers, was Catholic, and in powerful Protestant circles there were mutterings about the vanity of his designs (he had recently completed the Rijksmuseum) and their unsuitability for Amsterdam. In the event, the station was built to Cuypers' design, but it was to be his last major commission; thereafter he spent most of his time building parish churches. Whatever you think about the building it's a nice place to arrive. Its grand arches and cavernous main hall have a suitable sense of occasion, and from here all of the city lies before you though for the moment Stationsplein Stationsplein itself is a pretty unprepossessing introduction: a messy open s.p.a.ce, edged by ovals of water, packed with trams and dotted with barrel organs, chip stands and street performers in summer, and currently in the throes of a ma.s.sive redevelopment (see " itself is a pretty unprepossessing introduction: a messy open s.p.a.ce, edged by ovals of water, packed with trams and dotted with barrel organs, chip stands and street performers in summer, and currently in the throes of a ma.s.sive redevelopment (see "Old times, new times").

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

St Nicolaaskerk Across the water from Stationsplein, on Prins Hendrikkade, rise the twin towers and dome of St Nicolaaskerk St Nicolaaskerk (Mon & Sat noon3pm, TuesFri 11am4pm; free), the city's foremost Catholic church, dedicated to the patron saint of sailors and of Amsterdam. Like the station, it dates back to the 1880s; the cavernous interior holds some pretty dire religious murals, mawkish concoctions only partly relieved by swathes of coloured brickwork. Above the high altar is the crown of the Habsburg Emperor Maximilian, very much a symbol of the city and one you'll see again and again. Amsterdam had close ties with Maximilian; in the late fifteenth century he came here as a pilgrim and stayed on to recover from an illness. The burghers funded many of his military expeditions, and in return he let the city use his crown in its coat of arms a practice which, rather surprisingly, survived the seventeenth-century revolt against Spain. (Mon & Sat noon3pm, TuesFri 11am4pm; free), the city's foremost Catholic church, dedicated to the patron saint of sailors and of Amsterdam. Like the station, it dates back to the 1880s; the cavernous interior holds some pretty dire religious murals, mawkish concoctions only partly relieved by swathes of coloured brickwork. Above the high altar is the crown of the Habsburg Emperor Maximilian, very much a symbol of the city and one you'll see again and again. Amsterdam had close ties with Maximilian; in the late fifteenth century he came here as a pilgrim and stayed on to recover from an illness. The burghers funded many of his military expeditions, and in return he let the city use his crown in its coat of arms a practice which, rather surprisingly, survived the seventeenth-century revolt against Spain.

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

The Schreierstoren Just around the corner from St Nicolaaskerk, at the top of the Geldersekade ca.n.a.l, is the squat Schreierstoren Schreierstoren (Weepers' Tower), a rare surviving chunk of the city's medieval wall. Originally, the tower overlooked the River IJ and it was here that women gathered to watch their menfolk sail away, though like many good stories this is apparently apocryphal: "Schreierstoren" refers to the sharp angle the "schreye" at which it was built, rather than the weeping women. Nonetheless, an old and weathered stone plaque inserted in the wall is a reminder of all those supposed sad farewells, and another much more recent plaque recalls the departure of Henry Hudson from here in 1609. On this particular voyage Hudson stumbled across the "Hudson" river and an island the locals called Manhattan. The colony that grew up there became known as New Amsterdam, a colonial possession that was only renamed New York after the English seized it in 1664. These days the Schreierstoren houses a small cafe with a terrace overlooking the ca.n.a.l. (Weepers' Tower), a rare surviving chunk of the city's medieval wall. Originally, the tower overlooked the River IJ and it was here that women gathered to watch their menfolk sail away, though like many good stories this is apparently apocryphal: "Schreierstoren" refers to the sharp angle the "schreye" at which it was built, rather than the weeping women. Nonetheless, an old and weathered stone plaque inserted in the wall is a reminder of all those supposed sad farewells, and another much more recent plaque recalls the departure of Henry Hudson from here in 1609. On this particular voyage Hudson stumbled across the "Hudson" river and an island the locals called Manhattan. The colony that grew up there became known as New Amsterdam, a colonial possession that was only renamed New York after the English seized it in 1664. These days the Schreierstoren houses a small cafe with a terrace overlooking the ca.n.a.l.

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

The s.e.x Museum The first real sight along Damrak, if you can call it that, is the Amsterdam s.e.x Museum s.e.x Museum (daily 9.30am11.30pm; 3), a surprisingly large museum, and very popular given its position designed to draw in the tourist hordes in search of all the t.i.tillation the city has to offer. It's reasonably entertaining, depicting the history of pin-ups, s.e.x and erotica through the centuries, with lots of Victorian p.o.r.n photos, explicit private p.o.r.n collections from the 1950s and 1960s and some genuinely antique items nineteenth century ivory d.i.l.d.os, Indian prints, ancient Roman sculpture and a room devoted to j.a.panese erotica. There's also an ever-running reel of grainy old movies and a (fairly hardcore) "fetish" room. Not for the prudish. (daily 9.30am11.30pm; 3), a surprisingly large museum, and very popular given its position designed to draw in the tourist hordes in search of all the t.i.tillation the city has to offer. It's reasonably entertaining, depicting the history of pin-ups, s.e.x and erotica through the centuries, with lots of Victorian p.o.r.n photos, explicit private p.o.r.n collections from the 1950s and 1960s and some genuinely antique items nineteenth century ivory d.i.l.d.os, Indian prints, ancient Roman sculpture and a room devoted to j.a.panese erotica. There's also an ever-running reel of grainy old movies and a (fairly hardcore) "fetish" room. Not for the prudish.

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

The Beurs Just beyond the harbour at Damrak 277 is the imposing bulk of the Beurs Beurs, the old Stock Exchange (opening hours and admission depend on exhibitions; guided tours can be arranged on 020/620 8112; www.beursvanberlage.nl) known as the "Beurs van Berlage" a seminal work designed at the turn of the twentieth century by the leading light of the Dutch Modern movement, Hendrik Petrus Berlage Hendrik Petrus Berlage (18561934). Berlage rerouted Dutch architecture with this building, forsaking the historicism that had dominated the nineteenth century, whose prime pract.i.tioner had been Cuypers (see " (18561934). Berlage rerouted Dutch architecture with this building, forsaking the historicism that had dominated the nineteenth century, whose prime pract.i.tioner had been Cuypers (see "Centraal Station and Stationsplein"). Instead he opted for a style with cleaner, heavier lines, inspired by the Romanesque and the Renaissance, but with the minimum of ornamentation. In so doing, he antic.i.p.ated the Expressionism that swept across northern Europe from 1905 to 1925. The Beurs has long since lost its commercial function and nowadays hosts concerts and conferences, as well as exhibitions on modern art and design. The building is still the main event, from the graceful exposed ironwork and shallow-arched arcades of the main hall through to a fanciful frieze celebrating the stockbroker's trade. Seeing a temporary exhibition is the only chance you'll get to see inside, unless you visit the convivial Cafe Beurs van Berlage Cafe Beurs van Berlage that fronts onto Beursplein around the corner. There you can have a coffee and admire the tiled scenes of the past, present and future by the twentieth-century Dutch artist Jan Toorop. that fronts onto Beursplein around the corner. There you can have a coffee and admire the tiled scenes of the past, present and future by the twentieth-century Dutch artist Jan Toorop.

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

De Bijenkorf Just southwest of the Beurs, the enormous department store De Bijenkorf De Bijenkorf literally "beehive" extends south along the Damrak. De Bijenkorf posed all sorts of problems for the Germans when they first occupied the city in World War II. The store was a Jewish concern, so the n.a.z.is didn't really want their troops shopping here, but it was just too popular to implement a total ban. The bizarre solution was to prohibit German soldiers from shopping on the ground floor, where the store's Jewish employees were concentrated, as they always had been, in the luxury goods section. These days it's a good all-round department store, with the usual floors of designer-wear and well-known brands but none of the snootiness you usually a.s.sociate with such places. literally "beehive" extends south along the Damrak. De Bijenkorf posed all sorts of problems for the Germans when they first occupied the city in World War II. The store was a Jewish concern, so the n.a.z.is didn't really want their troops shopping here, but it was just too popular to implement a total ban. The bizarre solution was to prohibit German soldiers from shopping on the ground floor, where the store's Jewish employees were concentrated, as they always had been, in the luxury goods section. These days it's a good all-round department store, with the usual floors of designer-wear and well-known brands but none of the snootiness you usually a.s.sociate with such places.

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

The Crowne Plaza Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal kicks off with the kicks off with the Crowne Plaza Hotel Crowne Plaza Hotel at no. 5, formerly the Holiday Inn, built on the site of an old tenement building called at no. 5, formerly the Holiday Inn, built on the site of an old tenement building called Wyers Wyers. The 1985 clearance of squatters from Wyers ranks among the more infamous of that decade's anti-squatting campaigns, involving a great deal of protest (and some violence) throughout the city. The squatters had occupied the building in an attempt to prevent yet another slice of the city being converted from residential to business use. They were widely supported by the people of Amsterdam, but they couldn't match the clout of the American hotel company and riot police were sent in; construction of the hotel followed soon after.

The Old Centre

Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde Damrak and the Nieuwe Zijde

The Lutherse Kerk It's a short walk from Nieuwezijds Voorbugwal along Hekelveld and down Kattengat to the Lutherse Kerk Lutherse Kerk, a round, seventeenth-century edifice whose copper dome gives this area its nickname, Koepelkwartier Koepelkwartier ("Copper quarter"). Church domes are a rarity in Amsterdam, but this one was no stylistic peccadillo; until the late eighteenth century, only Dutch Reformed churches were permitted the (much more fashionable) bell towers, so the Lutherans got stuck with a dome. It's a grand building, seen to best advantage from the Singel ca.n.a.l, but it has been dogged by bad luck; in 1882 the interior was gutted by fire and, although it was repaired, the cost of maintenance proved too high for the congregation, who decamped in 1935. After many years of neglect, the adjacent ("Copper quarter"). Church domes are a rarity in Amsterdam, but this one was no stylistic peccadillo; until the late eighteenth century, only Dutch Reformed churches were permitted the (much more fashionable) bell towers, so the Lutherans got stuck with a dome. It's a grand building, seen to best advantage fr