16. Sulphur Springs.-Road very hilly, crossing many deep ravines. Gra.s.s and sage plenty.

9. Bitter Creek Crossing.-No gra.s.s at the crossing. Water bitter when the creek is down, but tolerable in high water. Road rough, with numerous ravines.

18-1/2. North Fork of Bitter Creek.-Cherokee trail enters near the crossing. Road good, but little gra.s.s except in spots. Sage for fuel.

4. Bluffs.-Springs of good water in the elevated bluffs on the right of the road in the cottonwood groves. Gra.s.s good and abundant at the base of the bluffs.

11-3/4. Green River.-Road is very rough and hilly, and winds along the valley of the creek. Good camp on the river, with plenty of wood and gra.s.s.

15-3/4. Crossing of Black's Fork.-Road runs up through Rabbit Hollow, which is steep and sandy; it then pa.s.ses over rolling prairie to Black's Fork. Bunch-gra.s.s on the hills, and good camp at the crossing.

11-1/4. Fort Laramie Road.-Rolling country; good road through sage bushes. Good camps along the creek.

5-3/4. Ham's Fork.-Good camp on either side of the creek. United States bridge here; good road.

3/4. Black's Fork Crossing.-Good ford except in high water, when the right-hand road on the north bank of the creek is generally traveled.

14-1/2. Fourth Crossing of Black's Fork.-Good road; fine camp; plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

2-3/4. Fifth Crossing of Black's Fork.-Good camp; good road.

2-3/4. Smith's Fork.-Good camp; good road.

11-3/4. Fort Bridger.-Good camp near; good road.

Total distance from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger, 520-1/2 miles. By the Fort Laramie road the distance is 569 miles.

XXV.-Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah.

Miles. Denver City to 5. Vasquez Fork.-Good road and fine camp.

19-1/2. Thompson's Fork.-Road crosses three creeks about five miles apart, is good, and the camp is well supplied with water and gra.s.s, but wood is scarce.

16-1/2. Bent's Fork.-Road crosses two streams about five miles apart; no wood on the first. Good camp.

26. Cashe la Poudre River.-Excellent road crossing two streams at ten and twenty-three miles from the last camp; good camps on both. Cashe la Poudre is a fine large stream which issues from the mountains near the road, and is difficult to cross in high water. It has a firm bottom. Good camps along this stream, with plenty of wood and gra.s.s.

16. Beaver Creek.-Road turns to the left and enters the hills, ascending very gradually between two lines of bluffs, and is good except in wet weather. Good camp.

19. Small Branch.-Road crosses Beaver Creek three times, affording good camps. Road is hilly, but not very rough, pa.s.sing for a portion of the distance through a timbered region. Elk and mountain sheep are abundant in this section. The camp is near the summit of the divide. Gra.s.s short.

17-1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.-Good road on the divide. Gra.s.s and water plenty, but wood not abundant.

18-1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.-Road pa.s.ses Laramie Fork three miles from the last camp. Good camp.

21. Tributary of Laramie River.-Road crosses a small creek at 14 miles from last camp. Fine camp.

17. Medicine Bow Creek.-At twelve miles the road crosses Sulphur Spring Creek, and at the West Fork of the Laramie Lieutenant Bryan's road enters. At ten miles from the last camp there are two roads-one, Bryan's, leading north of the Medicine Bow b.u.t.te, and the other to the south of it. The former is the best. Good camp.

17-1/2. Prairie Creek.-Fine camp. A portion of the road is very rough. It crosses several small branches upon which good camps may be had. Fine game section, with bear, elk, etc., in great abundance.

12-1/2. North Fork of the Platte.-Excellent camp. Leave Bryan's road four miles back, taking the left, which is altogether the best of the two. The crossing of the Platte is good except in high water, when it is very rapid. A flat-boat was left here by Colonel Loring's command in 1858.

12-1/2. Clear Creek.-Sage for fuel; gra.s.s short.

23. Dry Creek.-Road leaves Bryan's trail to Bridger's Pa.s.s, and bears to the right, pa.s.sing over a smooth country covered with sage and poorly watered; pa.s.ses a pond of milky water at thirteen miles. There is water in Dry Creek except in a very dry season. Two miles from the creek, on the old trail, there is a fine spring on the left of the road, which runs down into the road, and here is the best gra.s.s after leaving the Platte, with plenty of fuel.

10-1/2. Muddy Creek.-Road leaves the old Cherokee trail at Dry Creek, and bears to the left. Good camp for a limited number of animals; fine gra.s.s along near the bank of the creek. Bad crossing. Buffalo seen here.

19-1/2. Lake.-Old trail enters near this camp. Road pa.s.ses a brackish spring four miles back. The road may be shortened by bearing to the left and skirting the hills for about six miles before reaching the lake. The water in the lake is not good, but drinkable, and will be abundant except in the very dryest part of the summer. Gra.s.s is good on the hills. The road from Dry Creek is shorter than the old road by 30 miles.

24-1/2. Red Lakes.-Road is good, but traverses a very dry and sterile region. The water is not good in the lakes, but drinkable, and may go dry in midsummer. Gra.s.s tolerable.

22. Seminoes Spring.-After pa.s.sing the flats at the Red Lakes the road is smooth and good, and there is a good camp at Seminoes Spring.

12-1/2. Bitter Creek.-New road to the left, cutting off ten or twelve miles. Good camp; water a little saline, but drinkable.

25. Sulphur Spring.-Road runs along the valley of Bitter Creek, where there is but little gra.s.s until reaching camp. Animals should be driven across the creek into the hills, where the best gra.s.s is found.

17. Green River.-Road leaves Bitter Creek at Sulphur Spring, and pa.s.ses near, some high bluffs, where there are small springs and good gra.s.s. Excellent camp at Green River. From here the road runs over the same track as Bryan's road to Fort Bridger. From all the information I have been able to obtain regarding Lieutenant Bryan's road from Sage Creek through Bridger's Pa.s.s, and thence down the Muddy Creek, I am inclined to believe that the road we traveled is much the best. It is said that Lieutenant Bryan's route from Bridger's Pa.s.s to Green River has a scarcity of gra.s.s. The water is brackish, and the supply limited, and may fail altogether in a dry season. The road pa.s.ses through deep valleys and canons, crossing muddy creeks and deep ravines. The creeks have been bridged and the ravines cut down so as to form a practicable road; but freshets will probably occur in the spring, which will destroy a great deal of the work, and may render the road impa.s.sable.-Lieutenant Duane's Notes.

The other road is for the greater part of the distance smooth, and has a sufficiency of gra.s.s in places, but the water may become scarce in a very dry season.

XXVI.-From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney.

Nebraska City, on the Missouri River, is a point from whence a large amount of the supplies for the army in Utah are sent, and one of the contractors, Mr. Alexander Majors, speaks of this route in the following terms: "The military road from Fort Leavenworth crosses very many tributaries of the Kansas River, the Soldier, the Gra.s.shopper, etc., etc., which are at all times difficult of pa.s.sage. There are no bridges, or but few, and those of but little service. From Nebraska City to Fort Kearney, which is a fixed point for the junction of all roads pa.s.sing up the Platte, we have but one stream of any moment to cross. That one is Salt Creek, a stream which is now paved at a shallow ford with solid rock.

"There is no other stream which, even in a high freshet, would stop a train a single day. Again, upon this route we have an abundance of good grazing every foot of the way to Fort Kearney. The route from Nebraska City is about 100 miles shorter to Fort Kearney than that from Fort Leavenworth, the former being less than 200 miles and the latter about 300 miles."

From Nebraska City to Salt Creek is 40 miles.

From Salt Creek to Elm Creek is 60 "

From Elm Creek to Fort Kearney is 100 "

Upon the entire route there is an abundance of wood, water, and gra.s.s, and camping-places frequent.

XXVII.-From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico. By Colonel W. W. Loring, U.S.A.

Miles. Camp Floyd to 23. Goshen.-The road runs through Cedar Valley; is level and good for 11 miles, to where the road forks. The left runs near the lake, and has good camps upon it. Thence to a fine spring, where there is a good camp, is 3 miles. Gra.s.s continues good to the camp near Goshen. Wood, water, and gra.s.s abundant.

14. Salt Creek.-Road runs over a mountain in a direct course to a fine spring branch, which runs into Salt Creek at 3-1/2 miles, where is a good camp; thence through a meadow to a small branch 3 miles, striking the old Mormon road again opposite a mud fort, where there is a fine spring and good camp; thence into the valley of Salt Creek, where there are good camps.

18. Pleasant Creek.-Near the last camp the road forks, one running to Nephi, a small Mormon village, the other to Salt Creek Canon, which is the one to be taken. The road runs up the canon 5 miles; thence up its small right-hand fork to a spring, 3 miles; thence to camp. Good camps can be found any where after crossing Salt Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

19-1/2. Willow Creek.-Road at 6-1/2 miles pa.s.ses a fine spring; half a mile farther is another spring, where the road forks. Take the right through a meadow; it is 3 or 4 miles shorter. To the crossing is 3 miles; thence to the main road again 3 miles; to the village of Ephraim 5 miles. Good camp.

12. Lediniquint Creek.-At 6 miles pa.s.s Manti; thence to Salt and Sulphur Springs is 3 miles. Good camp, with a fine spring, wood, and gra.s.s.

15. Lediniquint Creek.-Road pa.s.ses over a rugged country for 4 miles, to a creek; thence one mile it crosses another creek; thence 2-1/2 miles up the creek, where there is a good camp. The road improves, and for 8 or 9 miles camps can be found by leaving the creek a short distance. The creek on which the camp is muddy, with narrow channel.

18. Onapah Creek, or Salt Creek.-Road is good over a barren country to the pointed red hills near the entrance to Wasatch Pa.s.s, 7 miles. From the red hills cross Salt Creek 3 times in 4 miles; gra.s.s fair at 2d crossing; very good at 3d crossing, and a good camp. Road rough for 3 miles after leaving the creek. The road then enters a fine valley, with plenty of blue and bunch gra.s.s. Road is level to within a mile of the camp. Wood, water, and gra.s.s abundant at camp.

7-1/2. Head of Branch of Salt Creek.-Road runs over a ridge at 2 miles, thence one mile to a small branch. Gra.s.s abundant. Road runs along the branch 3 miles; in places very rough, with some sand; ascends the entire distance, and the camp is very elevated. Good spring at camp.

5-3/4. Salt Creek.-Road pa.s.ses over a ridge 2-1/2 miles to a spring. Good camp at this spring. Colonel Loring worked the road at this place. It crosses the creek 6 times within the 5-3/4 miles. Good camp, with abundance of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

6-1/2. Silver Creek.-Road traverses a rolling section, is good, pa.s.ses several springs where there are good camps, and crosses several trails which lead from California to New Mexico.

17-1/2 Media Creek.-At two miles the road pa.s.ses the dividing ridge between the waters of Salt Lake and Green River; thence two miles' descent to Shipley Creek, where is a good camp. For about a mile the road is rough, but then descends into an open plain where the road is good. The ground is rough about the camp, and covered with sage and greasewood. Two miles up the creek, near the canon, is some gra.s.s, but it is not abundant here.

19-3/4. St. Raphael Creek.-Road pa.s.ses a rolling section for 5 miles; thence 1-1/2 mile to Garamboyer Creek, where there is a good camp; thence, with the exception of a short distance, the road is good to the k.n.o.bs, 9 miles, when it is broken for 4-1/2 miles. Good camp.

11-3/4. San Matio Creek.-For 3 miles the road is over a rolling section, with steep hills, to a creek, where is a good camp; thence, for 3 miles along the creek, soft soil and heavy road; thence 5 miles to another creek, some gra.s.s, but not plenty; thence to camp the road is rough in places. Good camp.

14-1/4. In the Hills.-Road runs over a rolling country 2-1/2 miles to San Marcos, or Tanoje Creek, where there is good gra.s.s and water, with sage. Two miles farther over a gravelly road, then a good plain road for 9-3/4 miles to camp. Good wood, water, and gra.s.s.

23. Spring.-Road for the first ten miles is rocky, when it strikes a spring, where there is a good camp; thence 2 miles to water in a tank, not permanent; thence the road is on a ridge for 6 miles, and is good; thence 3 miles the road is sandy. The spring at camp is large, with plenty of wood, but the gra.s.s is scarce. Down the creek it is more abundant.

18. Green River.-For 5 miles the road is sandy; thence the road is good for the remainder of the distance to camp, where there is plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

13. 13-Mile Spring.-Green River can be forded at ordinary stages. Road runs among several arroyas for a few miles, and is then straight and good to camp. Good gra.s.s a mile to the east of camp.

An Arroya.-Road runs between two rocky b.u.t.tes, and strikes the Mormon trail, which leaves Green River at the same place, but is very tortuous. Water not permanent here; good gra.s.s three fourths of a mile from camp.

20-1/4. Cottonwood Creek.-Road pa.s.ses over a broken country to a water-hole, 9 miles; gra.s.s abundant; thence there is sand in places: crosses several arroyas. Camp is between two mountains. Wood, water, and gra.s.s abundant.

12. Grand River.-Road is over a rolling country; in places light sand and heavy for wagons. Good camp.

13. Grand River.-Road is rolling and sandy. The Mormon road runs nearer the mountains, and Colonel Loring thinks it is better than the one he traveled. Good camp.

16-3/4. 1-1/2 mile from Grand River.-The first 3 miles is level, then the road pa.s.ses over a very elevated ridge, and descends into the valley. Grand River runs through a canon, and can not be reached with the animals. Road in places sandy. Good camp.

9-1/2. Grand River.-At two miles strike Salt Creek, where the Mormon road pa.s.ses up a dry creek toward Gray Mountain. Road skirts the mountains along Grand River, and is rough in places, pa.s.sing over abrupt hills. Good camp.

16-3/4. Grand River.-Road runs over a level and firm section, with good camps at any point along the river. Cross the Mormon and other trails. Good ford at the crossing except in high water. Good camp.

18-1/2. On an Arroya.-Road runs over an undulating surface, crossing several small streams issuing from Elk Mountain, affording good camps at almost any place, and strikes Marcy's and Gunnison's trails. Good camp.

15-1/4. Grand River.-Rolling country; high ridges with abrupt slopes for 6-1/4 miles; thence into a plain for 7-1/4 miles to Double Creek. Good camps.

12. Oncompagre River.-Good ford except in high water. At 6 miles cross a dry creek; thence 3 miles over a high, level, and firm road; strike a large trail; descend a hill with gentle slope into the Valley of Oncompagre, where there are fine camps. Winter resort for Ute Indians.

14-1/2. Oncompagre River.-Road runs along the valley of the Oncompagre, is good, and camps may be found at any point, with plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

13. Cedar Creek.-Road leaves the Oncompagre, and bears to the east up Cedar Creek to the gap in the mountains, 6 miles; thence up the valley of Cedar Creek to camp, where are wood, water, and gra.s.s. The Gap is the first opening in the mountains above the mouth of the Oncompagre.

8-3/4. Devil's Creek.-Road runs to the head of Cedar Creek, over the divide, into the valley of Devil's Creek, and is rough, with a steep descent. Camp is near a narrow canon called Devil's Gate, with high perpendicular bluffs. Good camp.

3. North Fork of Devil's Creek.-Road very rocky, and worked by Colonel Loring. Marcy's and Gunnison's trails pa.s.s here. Good camp.

7-3/4. Cebola Creek.-Road pa.s.ses over abrupt hills covered with pine. Good camp.

5-1/2. Ruidos Creek.-Road rough, with abrupt ascents and descents. Fine creek 5 feet wide, and good camp.

13. Grand River.-Road rather smooth for the first 3 miles, then rough and rocky, crossing several creeks, and descending into the valley of the Grand or Eagle-tail River, where is a good camp. Plenty of brook trout in all the streams in this section.

14-1/2. Grand River.-Road crosses the river three times; bottom wide; gra.s.s and wood abundant. Cross several beautiful streams, upon which are good camps. Some sand and rough places, but generally good road. Game and brook trout abundant in this region. Indians resort to this section a great deal.

18. Cutebetope Creek.-At about 5 miles the Cutebetope Creek enters, forming at the confluence a beautiful valley, which the road crosses, and strikes the creek near the Point of Rocks, where the valley is only 40 yards wide, but after pa.s.sing the Point it opens again. The course of the creek is nearly north. Good camps.

20. Spring near Beaver Creek.-Road crosses several small creeks, where are good camping-places. Good camp.

16-3/4. Sawatch Creek.-Road runs over a very rough and mountainous section for 14 miles to the summit of the Rocky Mountains; thence it descends to camp, where gra.s.s, wood, and water are abundant.

21-1/2. Sawatch Creek.-Road rough and rocky in places; strikes the main Sawatch Creek at 9-1/2 miles; crosses numerous small branches, where are gra.s.s, wood, and good water in abundance.

25-1/2. Camero Creek.-Road for 7 miles, to Sawatch b.u.t.tes, is good; thence 1-1/2 mile to the last crossing of the Sawatch, where is a good camping-place. Good camp at Camero Creek.

3-1/2. Garita Creek.-Good road and good camp.

16-1/2. Rio Grande.-Road level and good. Good camps along the river at almost any point.

6. Rio Grande.-Good road and camp.

17-1/2. Fort Garland, Hay Camp.-Road continues down the river, and is good. For six miles there is timber, but after this willow is the only wood to camp. Good road. Hay is cut at this place for Forts Ma.s.sachusetts and Garland.

16. Culebra Creek.-At 4-3/4 miles cross Trinchera Creek, where is a good camp. Road rather sandy. Good camps any where on Culebra Creek.

24-3/4. Latos Creek.-Road tolerable to Costilla Creek, 10-3/4 miles. Good camp.

14. Ascequia, near Lama Creek.-Road crosses several small branches. At 9-1/2 miles strike Red River. Gra.s.s at camp good, but not abundant.

19-3/4. Meadow near Indian Puebla.-At 6 miles the road crosses the San Christobal; thence over another ridge into the valley of the Rio Hondo. Camp 2 miles from Taos.