23.40. Los Pleyes.-Water only in the rainy season, one mile west of the road, hidden by bushes and difficult to find. Gra.s.s pretty good.

28.60. Cabeza Prieta.-Natural tenajas in a ravine two miles from the road; follow a wagon-track up this ravine between a black and a red mountain. The water is good and abundant; gra.s.s tolerable.

31.00. Poso.-No water on the road until reaching Poso. Here it is abundant on the east side of the road; gra.s.s good one mile west.

13.00. Rio Gila.-But little good gra.s.s.

26.00. Fort Yuma, at the crossing of the Colorado River.-But little good gra.s.s for several miles.

Total distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma, 756 miles.

XVII.-From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak and "Cherry Creek" N.T., via the Arkansas River.

Miles. Westport to 4-3/4. Indian Creek.-The road runs over a beautiful country. Indian Creek is a small wooded stream, with abundance of gra.s.s and water.

8-3/4. Cedar Creek.-The road pa.s.ses over a fine country, and there is a good camping-place at Cedar Creek.

8-1/2. Bull Creek.-The road is smooth and level, with less wood than before. Camping good.

Sketch of the country in the vicinity of the Gold Region near Pike's Peak and Cherry Creek.

9-1/2. Willow Springs.-At nine miles the road pa.s.ses "Black Jack Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The road has but little wood upon it at first, but it increases toward the end of the march. The road is level for some distance, but becomes more rolling, and the country is covered with the finest gra.s.s. Good camp at one mile from the main road.

20-1/4. 110-Mile Creek.-The road traverses the same character of country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is very smooth, and at 9 and 12 miles pa.s.ses "Rock Creeks," which have no running water in a dry season. Good camp.

22-1/2. Prairie Chicken Creek.-At eight miles the road crosses Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream; four miles farther First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile farther the Second Dragoon Creek, both fine streams, well wooded, and good camping-places. Good camp.

20. "Big Rock Creek."-At one mile the road crosses a small wooded branch. Three miles beyond it crosses "Elm Creek," where a good camping-place may be found. At 7 miles it crosses 142-Mile Creek, and at 13 miles it crosses Bluff Creek, where there is a good camping-place. Good camp.

20. "Council Grove," on Elm Creek.-Road pa.s.ses "Big John Spring" at 13 miles, and is smooth and good. A fine camp is found three fourths of a mile beyond the "Grove," on Elm Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

16. Diamond Spring.-At-eight miles the road crosses Elm Creek, and pa.s.ses over a section similar to that east of Council Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but muddy after heavy rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring.

16. Lost Spring.-One mile from camp the road pa.s.ses a wooded creek. From thence there is no more wood or permanent water until arriving at camp. Take wood here for cooking, as there is not a tree or bush in sight from Lost Spring. The country becomes more level, with gra.s.s every where. The road is muddy in wet weather.

15-3/4. Cottonwood Creek.-Road continues over a prairie country, sensibly rising and improving. Wood, water, and gra.s.s at camp.

22. Turkey Creek.-The road is good, and at 18 miles pa.s.ses Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at camp; gra.s.s good.

23. Little Arkansas River.-The road runs over a level prairie, and at 3-1/2 miles pa.s.ses "Big Turkey Creek," with the Arkansas River Valley in sight all day. After rains there are frequent pools of water along the road. Good camp.

20. "Big Cow" Creek.-The road pa.s.ses for ten miles over a level prairie, to Charez Creek, which is a bushy gully; thence six miles to Little Cow Creek, which is a brushy stream, with here and there a tree. Good camp here to the left of the road, near a clump of trees. "Prairie-dog towns" commence to be seen. Road very level. Buffalo-gra.s.s here.

20. Big Bend of the Arkansas.-The road at 12 miles strikes the sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon pa.s.sed, however, and the level river bottom is reached. The river has a rapid current flowing over a quicksand bed. The road is generally good from the last camp. Wood, water, and gra.s.s at camp.

7. Walnut Creek.-The road is good. Cool springs at this camp; good gra.s.s and wood.

21. Head of c.o.o.n Creek.-At five miles the road forks, one following the river, the other a "short cut" "dry route" to Fort Atkinson, where they unite on the river. The country rises for ten miles on the dry route, then descends to the river, and is covered with the short buffalo-gra.s.s. No wood at camp.

18. Arkansas River.-The road pa.s.ses over an undulating and uninteresting prairie, with but little vegetation. The water in dry weather is in pools.

19. Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson.-The road runs over a similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood near; plenty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good gra.s.s.

18-3/4. Arkansas River.-At 4-1/2 miles the road ascends a bluff covered with thick buffalo-gra.s.s. On the river is heavy bottom-gra.s.s. At 17 miles pa.s.s a ford. Gra.s.s good at camp.

19-1/4. Arkansas River.-The road is sandy for 14 miles, but not deep except in places; thence to camp it is good. Good camp.

22. Arkansas River.-Country prairie, covered with short buffalo-gra.s.s. Good camp.

22. Arkansas River.-The road is fine, crossing several dry-beds of creeks, along which are seen a few scattering trees. Good camp on a dry creek near the river.

24. Arkansas River.-The road runs over a barren plain at the foot of the main plateau, and crosses two dry creeks near the camp, on which are cottonwood-trees. Plenty of wood at camp.

21. Arkansas River.-The road follows the base of the hills at from one to three miles from the river. Good camp.

20. Arkansas River.-At seven miles the road strikes the "Big Timbers," where there is a large body of cottonwood; thence for three miles the road is heavy sand. Good camps along here.

13. Arkansas River.-At one mile the road pa.s.ses some old houses formerly used as a trading-post. Here terminates the "Big Timbers." Coa.r.s.e gra.s.s at the camp.

15. Arkansas River.-At three miles the road pa.s.ses the mouth of Purgatoire Creek. Camp is below Bent's Fort. Good gra.s.s here.

24. Arkansas River.-Pa.s.s Bent's Fort. The gra.s.s is excellent in the vicinity of the fort, but after this it is not so good. The road runs over a high and considerably broken country. Good camp.

11. Arkansas River.-Opposite the mouth of the Apishpa Creek; good camp. The Huerfano Mountains and Spanish Peaks are in sight from the camp. The "Cherokee Trail" comes in from Arkansas near Bent's Fort, and leads to the gold diggings at Cherry Creek.

9. Arkansas River.-Opposite the mouth of the Huerfano Creek. Good camp, and a ford opposite Charles Audebee's house.

12. Arkansas River.-At this point the Cherokee trail bears to the right and leaves the river. The left-hand, or river road, runs up to the old pueblo at the mouth of the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek. The right-hand road leads to the gold diggings.

SANGRE DE CRISTO Pa.s.s.

15-3/4. Fontaine qui Bouille.-The road strikes in a northwest course over the rolling country, and comes upon the creek at a most beautiful camp, where there is a great abundance of good wood, water, and gra.s.s. The wood, water, and gra.s.s are good at all points on the Fontaine qui Bouille, and travelers can camp any where upon this stream.

17-1/2. Fontaine qui Bouille.-Here the road forks, one running up the river, and the other striking directly across to the divide of the Arkansas and Platte. I prefer the left-hand road, as it has more water and better gra.s.s upon it.

6-1/2. Forks of the "Fontaine qui Bouille."-The road to Cherry Creek here leaves the "Fontaine qui Bouille" and bears to the right. There is a large Indian trail which crosses the main creek, and takes a northwest course toward "Pike's Peak." By going up this trail about two miles a mineral spring will be found, which gives the stream its name of "The Fountain that Boils." This spring, or, rather, these springs, as there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, are among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen. The water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is delightful to the taste, and somewhat similar to the Congress-water. It will well compensate any one for the trouble of visiting it.

17-1/2. Black Squirrel Creek.-This creek is near the crest of the high divide between the Arkansas and Platte Rivers. It is a small running branch, but always affords good water. There is pine timber here, and the gra.s.s is good on the prairies to the east. This is a locality which is very subject to severe storms, and it was here that I encountered the most severe snow-storm that I have ever known, on the first day of May, 1858. I would advise travelers to hasten past this spot as rapidly as possible during the winter and spring months, as a storm might prove very serious here.

14. Near the head of Cherry Creek.-The road crosses one small branch at four miles from Black Squirrel Creek; it then takes up to an elevated plateau, which in a rainy season is very muddy. The camp is at the first timber that is found, near the road, to the left. There is plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s here. There is also a good camping-place at the small branch that is mentioned.

10. On Cherry Creek.-There is good gra.s.s, wood, and water throughout the valley of Cherry Creek. The mountains are from five to ten miles distant, on the left or west of the road, and when I pa.s.sed there was a great abundance of elk, deer, antelope, bear, and turkeys throughout this section.

7. On Cherry Creek.-Good camp.

11. On Cherry Creek.-Good camp.

17. Mouth of Cherry Creek, at the South Platte.-Good camp, and a town built up since I pa.s.sed, called "Denver City."

Total distance from Westport to the gold diggings, 685-1/4 miles.

XVIII.-From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon.

Miles. St. Paul's to 17-1/4. Small Brook.-The wood, water, and gra.s.s are abundant as far as the "Bois des Sioux" River.

20-1/4. Cow Creek.-This stream is crossed on a bridge.

23-1/4. Small Lake.-North of the road. The road pa.s.ses over a rolling prairie, and crosses Elk River on a bridge.

17. Near Sauk Rapids.-The road crosses Elk River twice on bridges; Mississippi River near.

18. Russel's.-Ferry across the Mississippi River, then follow the Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring brook.

6. Cold Spring Brook.-Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4-1/2 feet deep.

19-1/2. Lake Henry.-Road good.

18-3/4. Lightning Lake.-Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat; water 4-1/2 feet deep.

17-1/2. Lake.-One mile from Red River trail. Pa.s.s White Bean Lake.

9-1/2. Pike Lake.-Pa.s.s the South Branch of the Chippeway River. Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses a small branch.

19-1/4. Small Lake.-Cross Chippeway River in a boat. Road pa.s.ses numerous lakes and the best gra.s.s.

9-3/4. Small Lake.-Road pa.s.ses rolling prairies, and crosses Rabbit River.

27. "Bois des Sioux" River.-Cross Bois des Sioux Prairie; rolling ground.

11. Wild Rice River.-Cross "Bois des Sioux" River, 70 feet wide and 4 to 7 feet deep, muddy bottom and banks. Wood, water, and gra.s.s at all camps between this and Maple River.

4-1/2. Small Creek.-Cross Wild Rice River on a bridge.

26-1/2. Sheyene River.-Smooth prairie road.

16-1/2. Maple River.-Cross Sheyene River on a bridge, and several small branches.

20. Small Creek.-Smooth road; no wood.

20. Pond.-Wet and marshy; numerous ponds in sight; no wood.

15. Pond.-No wood; approaching Sheyene River.

13-1/2. Sheyene River.-Prairie more rolling; camp in the river bottom. Wood, water, and gra.s.s abundant.

7. Slough.-Cross Sheyene River, 50 feet wide, 3-1/2 feet deep. No wood.

10. Lake.-Rolling prairie, with many marshes. Wood, water, and gra.s.s.

10-1/2. Pond.-Low, wet prairie; no wood; plenty of gra.s.s and water.

18-1/4. Marsh.-Smooth prairie, generally dry.

20. "Riviere a Jaques."-Smooth prairie, with marshes. Road crosses the river several times. Wood, water, and gra.s.s.

21-1/2. Pond.-Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds, and no wood.

12. Small Branch.-Marshy prairie, filled with ponds, with a thin, short gra.s.s, and no wood.

19-3/4. Lake.-On a high knoll. Road crosses the South Fork of Sheyene River; good crossing; thence rolling prairie, pa.s.sing "Balto de Morale," also a narrow lake 4-1/2 miles long.

16-1/2. Pond.-Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls; cross a small branch at 7-3/4 miles. No wood.

17-3/4. Pond.-Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering River, a deep, muddy stream 100 feet wide, also marshy prairies and ponds. No wood.

16. Small Branch.-Tributary of Mouse River. Road skirts the valley of Mouse River, crossing the ravines near their heads.

15-1/4. Pond.-Undulating prairie with occasional marshes; the road then turns up the high ridge called "Grand Coteau." No wood.

20-1/4. Lake.-Hilly road approaching Grand Coteau. No wood.

20. Lake.-Rolling prairie; smooth, good road; no wood.

15-1/2. Pond.-Road pa.s.ses Grand Coteau at 11 miles, and runs between two lakes. No wood, but plenty of "bois de vache" for fuel.

19-1/4. Branch of White Earth River.-Country rolling and hilly. Road pa.s.ses wood at eight miles from camp.

23-1/4. Pond.-For two miles the road pa.s.ses over a low, flat country, after which the country is hilly. No wood.

23-1/2. Pond.-Rolling and hilly country, with rocky k.n.o.bs. At 18 miles cross branch of Muddy Creek 15 feet wide. Wood in ravines near this stream. No wood at camp.

20. Pond.-Rolling country. At 11 miles there is water in a ravine. To the left there is more water, but the country is rough. No wood.