IV.-From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City.

Miles. Leavenworth City to 3. Salt Creek.-Good camp; wood, water, and gra.s.s.

12. Cold Spring.-To the right of the road, in a deep ravine, plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

12. Small Branch.-To the north of the road, in an arroya, good wood, water, and gra.s.s. Here enters the road from Atcheson, 6 miles distant.

16-2/3. Gra.s.shopper Creek.-Good wood, water, and gra.s.s.

9-1/2. Walnut Creek.-Road pa.s.ses a town called Whitehead, 4 miles from last camp. Water in pools, but 3/4 of a mile below is a fine spring; plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

17. Gra.s.shopper Creek.-Good camp, with wood, water, and gra.s.s.

12-1/2. Big Nemehaw, two miles above Richland.-Good wood, water, and gra.s.s near the creek.

11. Water-holes.-On the ridge, at the head of a ravine, are wood, water, and gra.s.s, but in a dry time there would be but little water.

10-3/4. Vermilion Creek.-Water in the creek not good, but there is a good well of cold water near the road. Wood and gra.s.s good.

21-1/2. Big Blue River.-Upper crossing, good ford; plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s. Fine clear stream, 60 yards wide.

17-1/2. Branch of the Big Blue.-Camp half a mile north of the road; good wood, water, and gra.s.s.

15. Turkey, or Rock Creek.-Good spring 400 yards to the north of the road. Store at the crossing. Good wood, water, and gra.s.s.

19. Big Sandy.-Wood, water, and gra.s.s good.

19. Little Blue River.-Road runs across the hills without water until reaching camp. Good wood, water, and gra.s.s.

18-3/4. Little Blue River.-Camp is at the point where the road turns off from the creek. Good camps may be found any where on the Little Blue, with excellent wood, water, and gra.s.s. Fine running stream.

15. Little Blue River.-Road strikes the creek again, and keeps it to the camp. Good wood, water, and gra.s.s.

19. Elm Creek.-Road leaves the Little Blue, and runs along a divide to the head of Elm Creek, where we found water in holes, with some few trees; gra.s.s good.

20. Platte River.-Road crosses one small branch, where there is water except in a dry season. Good camp on the Platte, with wood, water, and gra.s.s.

15. Fort Kearney.-Good camp about two miles from the fort, upon the Platte, either above or below; gra.s.s, wood, and water abundant.

17. Platte River-Road runs along the river, where there is plenty of gra.s.s, and occasionally a few cottonwood-trees. Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the traveler can always get a plenty of buffalo-chips along in this section.

16-3/4. On Plum Creek.-Road runs along the Platte to Plum Creek, where there is a little wood, with good gra.s.s and water. Mail station at the crossing of Plum Creek.

22-1/3. On Platte River.-Road runs along the Platte bottom after crossing Plum Creek, and is good except in wet weather. The road occasionally comes near the Platte, and, although the timber becomes thin, yet places are found where fuel can be obtained. Gra.s.s is plenty at all points.

23. On Platte River.-Road continues along the river valley over a flat country where the water stands in ponds, and is boggy in wet weather. Camps occasionally on the river, but little fuel. Gra.s.s and water good.

14. On Platte River.-Road continues along the valley, with the same character as before, but more timber. Camp opposite Brady's Island. Plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s.

17-1/4. Slough.-On the Prairie. Road runs from one to three miles from the river. No wood all day; plenty of gra.s.s, and buffalo-chips for cooking.

15-1/4. Platte River.-Road crosses O'Fallon's Bluffs, where there is a good camping-place on the right of the road. Plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s on a small stream, which is part of the Platte. Mail station here.

16-1/2. South Platte River.-Road runs along the Platte, with no timber. Good gra.s.s and water at any point, with buffalo-chips for fuel.

17. South Platte River.-No timber all day. Good water and gra.s.s at all points, with buffalo-chips.

8. South Platte Crossing.-No wood all day. Good water and gra.s.s, with buffalo-chips. The river is about 600 yards wide, rapid, with quicksand bottom, but can be forded when not above a medium stage. It is best to send a footman ahead to ascertain the depth of water before crossing the wagons and animals.

19. Ash Hollow, at North Platte River.-Road leaves the South Fork of the Platte, and strikes over the high prairie for 16 miles, when it descends the high bluffs bordering the valley of the North Platte, and enters Ash Hollow, where there is a plenty of wood and a small spring of water. Half a mile beyond this the road reaches the river. Mail station and a small grocery here.

16-3/4. North Platte.-Very sandy road; no wood; gra.s.s and water plenty at all points; buffalo-chips sufficient for cooking.

17. North Platte.-Road sandy in places; no wood; good gra.s.s and water; some buffalo-chips.

16-1/2. North Platte.-Road good; no wood; good gra.s.s and water; cattle-chips in places.

18-3/4. North Platte.-No wood. Camp opposite "Chimney Rock," which is a very peculiar formation on the south of the road, and resembles a chimney. Gra.s.s good. Road muddy after rains.

CHIMNEY ROCK.

17-1/2. North Platte.-No wood; gra.s.s and water good.

16. "Horse Creek," branch of the North Platte.-In seven miles the road pa.s.ses through Scott's Bluffs, where there is generally water in the first ravine about 200 yards below the road. The road then descends the mountain, at the foot of which is the Platte and a mail station. A little wood can be obtained at Scott's Bluffs; there is none on Horse Creek.

14-1/4. North Platte.-Road follows the river bottom all day. Wood, water, and gra.s.s on the river.

12. Fort Laramie.-Road rough and rocky in places. There are wood and water plenty, and before many trains have pa.s.sed the gra.s.s is good above the fort. Mail station and post-office here, with a sutler's store well stocked with such articles as the traveler wants.

10. North Platte.-Road good, but hilly in places. Camp is in the river bottom, with plenty of wood, water, and gra.s.s. Hot spring two miles above here.

14. Bitter Creek.-There are two roads, both of which lead to Salt Lake. The upper or south road is best in the spring or in wet weather. I traveled the lower road. Wood, water, and gra.s.s are good.

17-3/4. Horse-shoe Creek.-Fine camp, with excellent wood, water, and gra.s.s. The road here forks, one pa.s.sing to the left over the hills, and the other running nearer the Platte.

20-1/2. North Platte River.-Good road along near the river. Good wood, water, and gra.s.s. Road crosses the river at 12-1/2 miles.

20-1/4. North Platte River.-Road crosses the river again, and the camp is two miles above the mouth of La Prell Creek. Good wood, water, and gra.s.s.

19. North Platte River.-Road runs along the river, and is smooth and good. The camp is two miles above the crossing of Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store. Good gra.s.s, wood, and water.

16. North Platte River.-Good road, with wood, water, and gra.s.s at camp.

13. North Platte River.-Good road pa.s.sing the bridge, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store, also a military station and a mail station. At two miles from camp the road crosses the river on a good ford with rocky bottom. The wood, water, and gra.s.s are abundant.

23. Red b.u.t.tes, on the North Platte.-Road is very hilly, and in some places sandy; pa.s.ses Willow Spring, where there is gra.s.s and a little wood. Good wood, water, and gra.s.s at camp. Mail station here.

11. Sweet Water Creek.-Road leaves the river at the Red b.u.t.tes, and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Good gra.s.s and water, but little wood at camp.

15. On Sweet Water Creek.-Road pa.s.ses a blacksmith's shop and store at the bridge six miles from camp, and at 2-1/2 miles from the camp it pa.s.ses the "Devil's Gate" and a mail station. The Sweet Water here runs between two perpendicular cliffs, presenting a most singular and striking appearance. Take wood at the Gate for camp. Good gra.s.s and water at all places on Sweet Water Creek.

THE DEVIL'S GATE.

20. Sweet Water Creek.-Road muddy after rains, and some bad ravines to cross. Wood, water, and gra.s.s of the best quality at camp.

12. Sweet Water Creek.-Road runs along the valley of the Sweet Water, where there is plenty of wood and gra.s.s in places, but little wood at the camp noted.

8. On Sweet Water.-Road good; no wood; gra.s.s abundant.

20. On Sweet Water.-Road good; no wood.

17. Strawberry Creek.-Little wood; gra.s.s and water abundant. Road leaves "Sweet Water," and ascends a very long hill which is very rocky.

20-1/4. South Pa.s.s.-Road crosses the dividing ridge, and strikes the Pacific Spring, where there is excellent water and good gra.s.s if many cattle have not pa.s.sed, in which event the traveler had better continue on down the creek which issues from the spring. Sage for fuel; no wood.

15-3/4. Dry Sandy Creek.-Gra.s.s scarce; no wood; some sage and greasewood; water brackish, but drinkable; road good. Here the traveler should send ahead and have the best spots of gra.s.s found, as it is very scarce throughout this section. Sublett's Cut-off turns off here for Soda Springs and Fort Hall. Take the left for Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City.

15. Little Sandy Creek.-Gra.s.s in spots along the creek bottom, and some fuel.

18. Big Sandy Creek.-Gra.s.s in detached spots on the creek, and little fuel.

21-1/2. Green River, Upper Ford.-Gra.s.s and fuel on the river.

7. Green River, at the Lower Ford.-Good gra.s.s and fuel below the ford. Ferry in time of high water. Mail station and grocery.

16. Black's Fork.-Good gra.s.s and fuel.

7. Ham's Fork.-United States bridge, no toll. Good gra.s.s and fuel.

12. Black's Fork.-Road forks at the crossing of Black's Fork, both roads leading to Fort Bridger. This itinerary is upon the left-hand road, which crosses Black's Fork two miles from Ham's Fork.

13. Smith's Fork.-Good camps along Black's Fork at any place, but the road leaves the stream for several miles. Wood, water, and gra.s.s at the confluence of Black's and Smith's Forks.

18-1/4. Fort Bridger.-Good camps above and below the fort. Military post, mail station, and store.

Muddy Creek.-Good gra.s.s, wood, and water. Gra.s.s short after many trains have pa.s.sed. It is then necessary to go up the creek to find good gra.s.s. Road pa.s.ses a fine spring 3 miles back.

19. Bear River.-Good camps, with wood, water, and gra.s.s.

Good ford, except in very high water. Sulphur Creek two miles back.

19. Red Fork.-In "Echo Canon," two miles below Cashe Cave, good gra.s.s and fuel; water plenty.

19-1/4. Weber River.-Good gra.s.s, wood, and water. Mail station. United States bridge for high water; no toll.

5-1/4. Spring Branch.-Good camp. Road leaves the river, and takes the left into a valley.

9. Bauchmin's Creek.-Road crosses over a mountain, and descends to the creek, where there is a good camp.

14. Big Canon Creek.-Road crosses Bauchmin's Creek 13 times in 8 miles, then ascends the mountain along a small creek, which is well wooded and good gra.s.s.

6. Emigration Creek.-Road leaves Canon Creek, and crosses the two mountains, which are very steep and long. Gra.s.s and wood before crossing the "Little Mountain."

10-1/4. Great Salt Lake City.-Forage can be purchased here, as well as most of the articles the traveler may require, at high prices. There is no camping-place within two miles of the city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross the Jordan River, or to stop near the mouth of the canon before entering the city.

Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake City, 1168 miles.

V.-From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California.

Miles. From Salt Lake City to 18. Hait's Ranch.-Good road, and gra.s.s abundant until Bear River is crossed.

17-1/4. Ford on Weber River.-Good road, and gra.s.s abundant.

15. Point of Mountain.-Spring water warm but pure.

12-3/4. Box Elder Creek.-Excellent water; gra.s.s and fuel abundant in the canons.

23. Ferry on Bear River.-Four miles above the usual crossing. Excellent gra.s.s.

3/4. West Bank.-Gra.s.s not good on the west bank.

6. Small Spring.-Cross Bear River below the mouth of the Mallade.

17-1/2. Blue Springs.-Water and gra.s.s scarce, and of poor quality.

21-1/4. Deep Creek.-Heavy sage, but good gra.s.s on the right of the road, near sink.

20-1/2. Cedar Springs.-Good gra.s.s on the hills, with fine water and wood; rolling country.

10. Rock Creek.-Plenty of gra.s.s to the left of the road; good camping-place.

14-1/2. Raft River.-Good camp.